Installing a monolithic concrete slab from start to finish (aka alaskan slab)

[@DIRT-BOSS]

Great job all around..i also agrree 💯 on the j bolt topic.. Thanks so much for the shout out🎤 Dirtboss

[@revpops]

Drainage system in outer àrea ditch ?

[@jmuller86]

yw, btw where did you get your pizza pan? somewhere up there in albany that has them?

[@DIRT-BOSS]

@@jmuller86 Here's the link Call first they should have them in stock. Ask for Tony or John g.co/kgs/FwCxrS Thanks

[@dogglas7996]

In Sweden we use something called nail expander (english translation). We always put the sill or the whole premade wall on flat concrete slab and attache with these nails. 8mm hammerdrill hole throuh the timber and into the concrete, 110mm deep. Super fast, easy to hammer them in, nothing pointing up, strong as hell. Look like this verktygsboden.se/20.0.0.4/45426/cache/45426_d54d93cbc29ab3e3b69bd581ce782bb5.jpg Do you use them also in the US?

[@andrewcullen8635]

You might sound more convincing if you didn't contradict your self? You say that J Bolts and Wedge Bolts are comparable in strength then say that you have never seen WB pull out but JB will. By definition then WB must be stronger than JB? However at the end of the day as long as they get a Guarantee with your work then would any problems sorted. How ever I do agree with your other point that drilling holes with wood in place has to be quicker and easier.

[@mst5632]

I have a very similar project coming up in the Spring and I learned a lot, Jesse. Very informative. Great editing with your video. I love the cutting shots (multiple angles) and those drone scenery shots cut in. Awesome as always, Jesse! Thank you very much.

[@jmuller86]

thanks. good luck on your project. I am doing another one right now, 30x40 and may build a pole barn on it this winter

[@MrEst1953]

Nice job Lads ,hard word is not easy .

[@meandnature6452]

Yeah! much easier to drill holes and put anchor bolts after

[@TechGorilla1987]

OK, dude....I was critical of one of your previews videos and you responded pretty kindly, so I stuck around. I am about 10 minutes in and this is frigging AWESOME! I really hope this kind of pace keep up through this video. You added the music, but sparingly. I'm excited for the next hour!

[@jeffreyloftus3617]

A lovely job except for the shutter moving at 58-20 oops

[@hansstephanbayha318]

great jop , but bad rebar

[@jeremiahgirdan1593]

I’m guessing that you didn’t have your skid steer at the time?

[@xcalibertrekker6693]

Nice job and very generous of you to give such a positive shoutout about a fellow youtuber.

[@dalepremo3695]

Well done, Jesse! Start to finish, you went through all the details very well and it was very informative. The J bolt issue makes total sense to me and you did a great job explaining your reasoning. It was pretty cool to watch the season changing as you worked and the shout outs to Dirt Boss and Mike Day were really thoughtful. Thanks for all the hard work putting this together.

[@KenSilvers]

Jesse, those are control joints to keep cracking in the joint... expansion joints use the asphalted felt to control expansion. Expansion joints are typically used in this application where the apron meets the slab or similar instance.

[@SparkysGarage]

Once you see the bucket flipping you off, you can't un-see the bucket flipping you off....

[@davidj4662]

Appreciate all the hard work you did making this video. High quality content. Really enjoyed it and learned a lot.

[@Arbh1]

I use a²+b²=c² formula to make 90° corners. mostly 6²+8²=10²(Pythagoras theoram ). mark 1 string line at 6meters from the corner & other line at 8 meters, now start measuring from either 6m mark to 8m mark(or 8m to 6m), wherever 8m & 10m connects mark the point, set up a rebar piece put a string line on it & you got your 90° corner.( meters in bigger projects & foots in small projects)

[@colinratcliffe2454]

To square up the building with all string lines out just measure the diagonals of the whole building. The 3,4,5 method is good, but measuring the diagonal is a more accurate square up as well.

[@jmuller86]

yes we always definitely check the diagonals, sometimes I use an app on my phone to get the diagonals, but the 345 is a good method to begin squaring things up, the diagonal finalizes it

[@michaelkoon8371]

Jesse in your digging with your excavations have you ever dig up any thing unusual just wondering because I have hammers and all kind of old faction tool and things just wondering if you have

[@daleadkins2448]

Now THAT was a very well put together video. You are getting better editing and producing.. Keep up the good work.

[@tkilg7169]

Hard work. Concrete and video editing. Thanks for your time and effort.

[@lyles637]

Thanks for the referral to Dirt Boss Tri County excavating! He's got lots of great content!

[@JoelHershberger]

Dirt Boss Tri-County Masonry is awesome. I love his videos. He is well worth checking out!!

[@brucejgallettajr1014]

Most guys cut corners by putting j bolts in block with mortar which by code are supposed to in to the third block down in concrete this way when wrench on the bolts it don’t rise up

[@garageworker]

This was super informative and also totally convinces me to find a qualified concrete company in my area. I don't have the experiance, tools or back to do concrete work.

[@gregmoore7565]

If a Structural engineer oversaw this, it would need F6 Rio and Rio chairs at 1/3 the top pour thickness and integrated channels @ 2.4M with F10 deformed bar and F8 trench mesh. The last time I saw mesh sitting on the ground with concrete poured over was in China on a road project when the engineer was away. :)

[@jemfly1062]

Agreed. I'm consistently amazed that almost all of the slabs that are on YT in the USA do not support the reinforcing steel with bar chairs or anything else, despite the well-documented evidence against their poor practice of pulling up steel while pouring. And most have never seen a decent aluminium Master Finish screed, using lengths of timber instead, doing what they call 'kick screeding' and then trying to level wavy, humpy concrete with a bullfloat or chopper. As for the amount of extra hard yakka they do, with all those slider boards and 'jitterbugs' and other gadgets, wages must be incredibly low for the concretors to spend so much extra work and unnecessary time on slabs.

[@buddyreed2623]

Too bad you can not screen all of the dirt to get the stone out to use. I think it would be labor and time intensive.

[@JohnDobak]

1:06:25 I thought that was a snowboard being used to screed concrete for a second :D

[@EddieTheGrouch]

I'm 6 minutes into this and thinking: "He's making Shedhenge!".

[@darinmorgante7200]

Definitely wanna see an update on this building when it's done 👀 awesome slab!!

[@henryrodgers3409]

Great video . I could never do work like that . Heck I don't even know how to use that lazer level . Looks like someone has a few Jamaica Cottage buildings and just bought a big building .

[@bookworm67-hv7nm]

watching and old one they unsub me the swine's hate when they do that

[@qualitybuild5871]

Where’s the rebar, wire is laying way too flat on the board. Overall good job.

[@olgriz485]

The concrete contains fibers that act as a binding agent similar to rebar.

[@olgriz485]

There is rents in the slab

[@chipbaker2025]

Sixty years ago I worked for my foreman father on a big construction project. That's when I learned about anchor bolts instead of J bolts.

[@tillman1697]

Jesse: What's the WEIRDEST thing you've ever found while digging?

[@darinmorgante7200]

Just here for the answer 😅

[@jmuller86]

I really have not found anything crazy interesting. A few bottles from like the 20's..sometimes I will find old stuff like that out in the middle of no-where and its interesting to think about what or who was there that long ago

[@jestempies]

Would it be possible to attach the beeping height measuring stick directly to the front pusher of the digger so that you can get a better sense at what hight the gravel should be?

[@TheScurvyDeplorable]

This is why I pay guys like you to do this, nice work! Any chance you will do a follow up on the end product? Looks interesting...

[@raylebonville7499]

watching the video I could not see the wire mesh during the pour. I was under the impression (I surely do not know) that the wire mesh say 6 x 6 should have been an inch or so above the ground when the pour starts. Also I would like if someone could comment on the purpose of the foam. Thanks in advance

[@upencomeing6582]

We pull the wire mesh up with a rake as we pour to pick it up of the ground. It's just Hard to see in fast motion. And the concrete slab is the actual floor, so the foam insulates the floor. And it also acts as a vapor barrier to keep moisture from wicking into the concrete.

[@marcfournier823]

Thanks for this. I'm pouring two 16 x 28 foot pads at either end of my garage to extend my garage from 36 x 28 to 72' x 28. Therefore this was useful to see. Your dozer would have been useful for that one corner, but the extra trip would probably slowed you down. Thanks for the video.

[@jonka1]

I finally see what's going on here. There's always a dog in charge. Sometimes there are two dogs working as a team. It's never talked about but once you spot it it's so obvious.

[@jmuller86]

you might be talking about my brother? the other guy is a close friend but still new to alot of things

[@jonka1]

@@jmuller86 I'm talking about the small white dog.

[@trebornesregrot]

I hate rocks!

[@upencomeing6582]

Dopey has to give it the ok before we can send it, he is very nosy. But I always make sure to buy lunch for him, I wouldn't call it a bribe per say.😂

[@literaryebooks]

Why the rest of the south is not doing this type of slab we don’t know by the way we notice your pink thermal layer above the gravel before the concrete is poured on the steel and mesh. Slump 5. Dirt Boss is a bad ass from Alaska so much so that he inspired this guy in Florida.

[@swmas02]

Great intuitive details in settings up a concrete slab, keep those videos coming.

[@davenelson9253]

In 1956 my dad put dawn a slab for their restaurant it was exactly the same as this , it was called a floating slab, in the U P of MI., it hasn't moved since, so this is not something new !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@moemoes5989]

1.08:46 Buddy the foreman decided to stroll right across the top in order to check your work for proper denseness. Great job to the 4 legged site inspector LOL!!!

[@upencomeing6582]

That's Dopey the foreman 😂 he told me it all checked out.

[@mmanut]

High wind areas I would much rather use J Bolts. Wedge Anchors are not as effective and in many areas they won't pass code. You did a FANTASTIC JOB, VERY IMPRESSIVE JOB‼️👍👍. Vinny 🇺🇸

[@keithgrauherr2245]

No radiant tubing? Customer missed an opportunity. Cheap to add for future heat option.

[@idadho]

Many chose a tighter pack with fines with no room for water because the less water in the compaction, the less water to freeze and expand. With larger rock, there is more space for water and that water expands by 10% when it freezes. If the base can hold 10% water, it can freeze and expand 1%. If it can hold 25% water between larger rock, it can freeze and expand 2.5% Any extra strength from J-bolts is over-kill. Wedge anchors or screw in concrete bolts have plenty of strength. Much easier to get a smooth surface for bottom plates without J-bolts. Concrete is plenty strong at 7 days. If the customer wants quick access, use higher grade concrete. The added cost to use higher grade concrete is often worth it to get crews working a week or 2 earlier.

[@shawndoyle6460]

I used 5/8 minus for my gravel it's a pain to pack down but solid ...

[@marioq.gonzales1902]

When will you up-load more framing work. I can't do anything hard working because of my health problems. It's fun too watch.

[@bruceblais7958]

Cool, you guys did a great job and a lot of hard work, you liking that skid steer thanks for the video.

[@ockong1]

J Bolts all the way. also I would make sure not to use pea gavel it does not compact down. you walk on it and shifts use sand or crushed rock. I like the fact living were I do we have a lot of basalt flows and we use that as crushed rock. compact that and it is like concrete or asphalt. then you pour your slab like every on here has said use rebar #4 that is half inch and use the nylon reenforced cement and your slab will last for ever!

[@rtsaldivar]

Today’s constractor must be an expert at their work and good at filmography to capture their expertise! Magnificent! 👍

[@canvids1]

You do great work Jesse thanks for the video showing how its done.

[@barnacmongars]

look like a video from andrew camarata but great job man! Very informative for a young carpenter like like me

[@johnpyle8027]

If I ever get the balls I am selling everything, buying land on a lake and pouring a slab like that. I'll put a Morton building on it with 2" 4x8 insulation against the metal, then rough in 2x4 walls to bring it out flush with the posts and spray foam. Should be $ 20-$40 electric bills. As far as expansion i'll saw a 24" 45 degree angle throughout.

[@HAL-dm1eh]

Did someone say monolithic slab?

[@mismas81]

Andrew could learn here something about using grading board/lath for concrete finish...:-)

[@KenSilvers]

Are you talking about the "rod", "screed", or "strike", as they are all the same things but never heard them referred to as grading board or lath?... The best screeds are magnesium because they are very lightweight, stiff, and strong... wood sags and moves like a noodle and is heavy. Jesse did a near perfect job here. Andrew C. has skills no bout a doubt it. I recommend essential craftsman's channel if you like building and blacksmithing also.

[@jmanatee]

How big can you go with an alaskan slab? I have always heard 24x24 but I see people putting in much bigger now. I would like a 45x45 whats your opinion?

[@rustrtal]

Hi Jesse, just curious if there are stone slinger trucks in your area? I see that you and Andrew both do a lot of your own hauling on jobs like this. In my area, we typically use slingers and keep up with a rake and laser as the stone is being slung. I did a project in Watertown and there weren’t any in that area...

[@Melicoy]

Jesse time to buy some acres divide it up make some lots and sell it off. You can do that !!!!! Do all the civil work add water septic road even slap if needed etc at a reduced rate.

[@jmuller86]

I told Andrew he should consider doing just that

[@Melicoy]

Dont consider just to it !!! And get a joint venture agreement with a shotgun clause. I can send you one if need be

[@49BigPoppa]

Why does it have to called an “Alaskan slab”?

[@josephjohnson9237]

while digging the footers i se many roots do these need to be killed if so how?

[@colinratcliffe2454]

The steel stakes you use on the form, do they have holes drilled in them do they? Could you explain how they are made.

[@jmuller86]

yes they have holes that are 90 degrees from each other. I am not sure how they are made but they work good and are cheap

[@KenSilvers]

3,4,5 is the same as 6,8,10

[@richardmueller9189]

Jesse i liked the way you did not over-work the cream out of the concrete.Love the finished look of the concrete.

[@willford8475]

Links to the other channels would be good.

[@jmuller86]

I will put them in the comments when I get home. good idea. here is a quick link to some videos kzbin.info/www/bejne/pKC8dqdoosykpq8 kzbin.info/door/em87zDMe98Cmypjd6PVf9A

[@ultramagaman4304]

I just did a pour for my slab house using only foam as the outside forms. No wood forms, no metal or wooden steaks. Using my mini excavator, digging trench around outside. Lay 2' foam flat on the bottom and 2' vertical. This gives you 4'of frost protection, (that's required here in Wisconsin ). Using string to set the vertical foam to the size needed. But leave string line up for the pour, you can easily adjust the foam when the concrete is being poured. This way don't need to go back and do the foam after and don't need to bring form boards, nothing at all. Really works great and super fast!

[@stephenlehr6020]

17:47 Did you ever get the feeling that your bucket was giving you the finger...... Just watching an older video and just laughed when I saw this (will have to scan the comments to see if I am the only nut here...) Anyways, have a good one!!

[@nobreighner]

I like no concrete in contact with the outside world - all foam insulated. Best way to go. Not just warm but also dry!

[@humanoverlord6708]

buy some wall straightening turnbuckles ---- cheap, reusable, works with 'holey rod ' stakes and it replaces labor

[@jmuller86]

I do have some turnbuckles for my wall forms, but not enough for a slab like this

[@rfcomm2k]

Less time to hammer drill holes and set wedge anchors instead of doing layout and drilling thru the bottom plates for j-bolts? You need to rethink that. First, if you have a copy of the floorplan in order to set the slab, you must have info about where the walls will be, and therefore can determine where the studs are. Avoiding the studs is NOT that difficult. Second, when the framer lays out the plates, if he/she is doing it efficiently, there are inexpensive tools available to locate the j-bolt holes on the plate. You do a chalk line layout on the slab of the walls, then you cut and spread out the plates to those lines, then use the tool to locate and mark the bolts. Then drill the holes in the plate, build the walls, and set them in place. Not to mention, I do not want MY house held down to the foundation or slab by tapcons. And while wedge anchors are a bit sturdier, they are relying on friction to hold the structure to the slab, and over time those wedges will rust and lose their ability to hold. Read the books or watch the videos by Larry Haun.

[@nicholash8021]

I don't want the J-bolt anchor holders to get in the way when I use a screed board. I also don't have the skill or patience to smooth out the concrete around each anchor without creating dips/bulges that would leave a gap under the sill plate. It's 10x easier for a rookie to put the anchors in afterward. You can always replace them (unscrew a bit, hammer it down to loosen, and then they pop out). If I were a pro, I might think differently.

[@jmuller86]

its not the time that it takes to drill the holes that matters, its the fact that the jbolts are never 100% straight up and down so you have to oversize the hole to fit, also its the finishing around the jbolt with a trowel, and its in the way of screeding, also the sill seal works better with a flatter surface that you can get from not having jbolts there. also you cannot easily build whole walls and set them in place, without a machine to lift them up and over. I do alot of framing, my company is a construction company so we build full houses, with no subs involved. as a framer, and a concrete guy, I personally would rather use wedge anchors or tapcons. we do not high winds or seismic problems here, if we did, I might rethink it, but there are no problems with using them here

[@nicholash8021]

@@jmuller86 I wish I had your experience to look at my 10x20 shed pad under construction. I am building it on a slight hill where one corner is more than 2 feet high while the other corner is 5.5 inches high (because I want the shed raised a bit for snow and water). I was planning to build a retaining wall, which would be even taller because it would be set a couple feet out from the shed and thus further down the slope. Pricing out the retaining wall and a simple 4 inch slab turned out to be more expensive than just pouring a monolithic slab that is more than 2 feet thick on one corner, so I went for the monolithic slab. I built my form out of 3/4" plywood and 2x4s (sort of like one would frame a wall but stronger in the corners where my forms overlap). I am pouring this weekend and crossing fingers nothing blows out. I used a FULL 5 lbs of #9x3 screws putting that form together, but still nervous about the tall side of that form!

[@jmuller86]

@@nicholash8021 if you want to send me pictures you can find me on facebook, I am in catskill, NY and I will take a look

[@nicholash8021]

@@jmuller86 Generous of you to offer! I dont use facebook or Instagram but will follow up here with the results. Crossing fingers all goes well especially with the cold weather today. I have R10 rigid insulation going over the slab once were done finishing. Also have blankets for the sides and will leave form in place for at least a week. Plastic sheeting going on top of all that to seal it in. High of 39 today and below freezing overnight. With any luck, it will set before the sun goes down!

[@concrete6928]

Always power trowel the opposite way you rod. Your form could use work. When using power trowel on bottom go right . Go left on top to wipe out your line from bottom pass.

[@jmuller86]

I started to go opposite but then had some areas that needed attention sooner so I got side tracked. I dont do these slabs every day, I usually average more foundation wall work in a year than flatwork. but I am doing another one right now 30x40 so I will put more detail in the finish on this one. thanks for the tips

[@concrete6928]

Nice! It looks good! Ya I'm opposite we pour walls mostly to get in on the rest of the project. Were always playing with the mix to try to reduce air pockets. Good luck with the next one💪

[@richardsedorski1206]

Very good vid extremely interesting well done you sure know your business.

[@garym1550]

j-bolts, what does your building dept/inspector require for the building permit? The choice isn't always yours to make.

[@garym1550]

Did I miss where the wire was pulled up into the cement?

[@jmuller86]

@@garym1550 I always designate one person to be the guy in charge of pulling up the wire. his job is mostly to do just that..since the video is in fast motion you cant see it that well but he spent the entire time mostly pulling up wire..as far as codes go, anchor bolts are not specified, and wedge/tapcons are equivelant to jbolts. local municipalities may have their own opinion sometimes, but not that I have come across. every inspector has been fine with it

[@kiwiingenuity1677]

@@garym1550I agree they are walking flat on the mesh and it needs to be integral. On concrete chairs or bricks..? The guy pulling it up doesn't seem to be doing a very effective job as it looks to be on the same plane as the insulation! It need to be centered in top slab with a min of 50mm cover.

[@monicaturner5984]

The marvelous law usually fool because dessert spontaneously sign failing a therapeutic back. wooden, white chive

[@percival23]

This concrete form was under supported. You can see significant bowing. The weight of the concrete is just immense. But you can make the argument that some bowing is acceptable when considering that it's twice the work to make a form that won't bow at all.

[@thebotformalityknownasdale2564]

I could not be in more agreement with you in solar as wet setting bolts for me I like Rawl spikes even more than any wedge bolts and I have tested them and in SOLID concrete you cant do better other than maybe epoxy !

[@jdhorton1432]

Nice work! I'm not contractor, but I enjoyed your process & can understand your rational for particular processes. Thanks for video! P.S. Can EASILY & READILY see vast improvement in quality of your videos! 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽Nice! 😎

[@simonwelch560]

The English car hiding was either a Morris Oxford or an Austin Cambridge. They were the same shape and made by the same car company (BMC) but different interiors I thunk.

[@USMC-Sniper-0137]

You clean a drilled concrete hole out better by using a compressed air tank and a blow tube! Sucking does nothing

[@GuruBrew]

Kind of like making and frosting a Giant Cake. ~Great video Jesse!

[@darrinshort4834]

Great stuff Jesse! I could watch this stuff all day. I’m sure you’re thankful you get to work in the great outdoors, most of us are stuck in a building or office all day.

[@literaryebooks]

Pink foam on board boards excellent. This is what the South should do, amoung other things.

[@yourmomma4423]

Plus making the j bolts stick up enough and someone not having damaged the thread

[@AQLandscaping]

Awesome video. I work for a part of Bonded Concrete. My part is called Century Acquisitions. I pour concrete mostly in CT, MA, and Eastern NY

[@7M0DXGAMEalm]

كم تكلفة المشروع كامل ؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟؟

[@daddygoat]

We use 1/2" x 7" wedge anchors same as you AND if we don't do the slab and the previous person put "J" bolts in.....We cut them off, drill and use wedge anchors. The towns will accept Simpson STB2-50700 anchors. It is so much easier and faster with wedge anchors and we have never had a problem in 20yrs.

[@jmuller86]

yea , I am going actually put some tapcons in this slab in a few days, they are actually a little faster even yet. Its nice to stand up the wall and slide it over

[@markjensen7166]

You do some Beautiful work.. love watching your video

[@colinratcliffe2454]

Do you hate the leaves falling on top of your new concrete after it’s been finished and drying.

[@adamkohnert4427]

First.

[@raytalbot5890]

You didn’t show the plastic cover & wire going in?

[@stein737]

well don

[@danconlan8735]

Nice job Jesse, and man what a beautiful area! Thanks for sharing. DC

[@mikeembrey9176]

You are correct no j bolts for me if the anchors fail the structure is gone already

[@stanleysiewierski]

J-bolts are inexpensive and easy to insert in fresh concrete. Hey, if you want expensive anchor bolts, epoxy, drill out concrete, make sure drilled hole is really clean then go for it man! Depends where you are, inspector will need to watch you perform this.

[@froggleggers1805]

Watch? You got an inspector that will stay around and watch you do all your anchors?

[@stanleysiewierski]

@@froggleggers1805 SPECIAL INSPECTION, CONTINUOUS - The inspection of construction or work that requires special inspection in accordance with the statement of special inspections and, due to the nature of the work, is inspected by an approved special inspector who is continuously present in the area when and where the construction or work is being performed.

[@jeremiahgirdan1593]

Nvm I saw the skid steer at the end

[@rotex380]

Great job Jesse! Keep those video's coming..👍

[@mojo6524]

dam leaves on fresh concrete!

[@TRX450RVlogger]

I don't know what it is but working with Concrete is stratifying i don't know why

[@jmuller86]

it really is, especially when your not busting your back, I love the power screed. used to bust my back and be shot for a few days, now not at all

[@billwalter3216]

Great Pour Men

[@billcoley8520]

I’ve never seen squares like that, I’m still not sure I get it.

[@TheKajunkat]

I think that is one of the only driver's I have seen that worked with the crew to make it easier. It seems that most of the time they are trying to blow out the forms and get the truck empty as soon as possible to get to another load. Also, when I become king of the world I am making all concrete trucks front loaders.

[@jmuller86]

the drivers around here are usually really good with slabs, lots of work going on around here so everybody is constantly learning quick

[@mantojo3018]

From the UK......Great videos....

[@Melicoy]

WoooHooo Skid steer in action !!!! 1:12:00