Installing a new LED light bar on my ATV!

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How to install a LED light bar on a high beam circuit!
Nilight 20” 22 ”light bar lightbar 420W

[@j.r.outdoors247]

This is awesome. I just got a 4 wheeler last week and will have to be picking up this kit. Thanks Nate.

[@TheBudgetSportsman]

Cool! Great timing.

[@HuntingFarmerOfficial]

The upgrade was a bright idea. Locked exposure comparison was great 👍

[@TheBudgetSportsman]

Haha. I see what you did there 😂

[@HELLBILLYx88]

Nilight makes a great product for a great price I have 3 ATVs and have there light bars on all 3 of them I have the 24 in on both my 4x4s and a 12 in on my sport quad I would recommend there product for anyone looking for better lighting 👍🏻

[@TheBudgetSportsman]

Awesome. Thanks for sharing your experience

[@aussiefarmer4955]

Great educational video, thanks mate.

[@TheBudgetSportsman]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@philharvey8411]

Excellent video...thank you!

[@TheBudgetSportsman]

You are welcome!

[@4220zuke]

Great video! When you connected the white wore to the Honda factory blue wire, what did you do with the red and black wires that had crimoed ends?

[@TheBudgetSportsman]

I believe I just taped them up with electrical tape and zip tied them up under the frame. They are not needed if you aren't using the switch that came with the wiring harness.

[@4220zuke]

Pardon my ignorance; I have the correct wiring set up as you perfectly showed. But, what about the wires going to the lights on the other side of the ATV?

[@togo3624]

Great video! Thx exactly what I needed to see. Instead of disconnecting your atv bright lights could you just splice the relay white into the atv blue?

[@TheBudgetSportsman]

Yes. That should work fine and you would keep high beams and the LED bar on at the same time. My high beams were worthless so I didn’t mind disconnecting them, plus this way I can return it to factory without cutting any wires or piercing the wiring insulation.

[@togo3624]

@@TheBudgetSportsman thanks for the advice! Much appreciated.

[@joemcnicholl4361]

If I want to wire the light bar straight in do I put the red wire to the blue wire. But then when do I put the black wire

[@TheBudgetSportsman]

If you are wiring without going through any factory switches, then you would connect the red and black to your battery and use the included switch.

[@328am]

It's a night and day difference 😄

[@TheBudgetSportsman]

😂

[@josh-journeys]

Thank you, awesome video. I have a 2014 Polaris sportsman 570 and wondered if this same hook-up will work? I know the high been wire is yellow on it. Could I just use that like you did? I also am assuming the original high been will no longer work and that is fine since it sucks on the Polaris anyway.

[@TheBudgetSportsman]

Yes as long as you know which wire is the high beam wire, you should be able to do the same installation. The way I installed mine eliminated the factory high beams although you could splice the wire and still have a wire running to your factory high beams as well as the relay for the light bar. I didn’t see any reason to do that.

[@roropetjr]

Great video. Going to do the same set-up to a 2002 Honda Rancher. What do you call that type of connector you use between the factory harness and the new harness. Thanks.

[@TheBudgetSportsman]

I believe it might be called a bullet connector.

[@mictuning]

Hello, would you like to get some RGB+IC Whip Lights?

[@gsxr1000jt]

Great video, I'm looking to put a 8" bar on rear of my 4 wheeler. What is the best way to wire the switch/wire harness so it shuts off when ATV is off?

[@TheBudgetSportsman]

I am not totally sure. I took advantage of the fact that my headlights were already wired to go off with the switch. If you don’t have that advantage, you would have to take a volt meter and check the fuse panel or various wires for what shuts off with the switch. If you use a relay, you might even be able to tie in somewhere like the key. Without doing some testing in your exact unit, it would be difficult to say exactly how to do it.

[@lvbsolemnis]

So at the 11:35 mark, what did you do with the black and red wires from the switch? Securely tuck those away somewhere under the frame?

[@TheBudgetSportsman]

Yup. Just tuck them up and hide them. Could heat shrink the ends for a little extra protection.

[@angelomilano3167]

Do you only use one blue wire from high beam do you disconnect the other side leave it disconnected

[@TheBudgetSportsman]

I only had the one group of wires and just used the one blue wire.

[@TheBudgetSportsman]

I am assuming that the wires split later to go the individual lights, but I made the connection before the split.

[@mk_0898]

I'm considering installing 2 pod LED lights AND 1 LED light bar on my quad. Planning on having the 2 pods operate off the high beam circuit, and having the LED bar operate off the inluded switch that comes in the package. I'm going to attempt having the power for the LED's switch for the light bar operate based on the quad's primary light switch is turned on. That way I can operate the LED bar and the pod lights somewhat independantly. Has anyone attempted this before?

[@TheBudgetSportsman]

I don’t have any experience with this but I’m sure it’s possible if you find the right wires to connect to. However it sounds to me like you would need two individual wiring harnesses/ relays.

[@mk_0898]

@@TheBudgetSportsman I ended up installing the pod lights on the high beam circuit and just had the light bar on the wiring harness supplied by Nilight. Was able to feed the Nilight switch up to the surface the speed cluster is on and ended up being a clean look. I had a difficult time even locating the wiring for the main switch and was afraid of doing more harm than good, lol. Appreciate the video and the feedback though!

[@michaelblake84]

Does the relay need to be bolted down to metal? I bought the 20" nilight with harness and did a test fit . Hooked up the wires. Put them on the battery and truned the ignition on. Flipped the light bar on and it came on but the atv wont turn on. Its is a 288 watt bar. On my 23 can am xmr 1000

[@TheBudgetSportsman]

no the relay should not need to be bolted down to metal. In fact I think I just tucked mine up and didn't bolt it down at all. Is it possible that you blew a fuse or a breaker in the process of connecting everything?

[@michaelblake84]

@@TheBudgetSportsman thanks, I just got it figured out. Dumb error on my end. Works phenomenal!

[@golddog0113]

​@michaelblake84 what was the error? A fuse? I hope none of my go out tommrow when I install this

[@btjgames]

I'm confused? Did you hook up the black and red to the battery or are they dangling inside? I seen in a comment below that the black and red from the switch are just tucked up inside. What I gather from the video is the only think hooked up is the light itself and the white wire, but you don't actually explain what you did with the leads that hook up to the battery.

[@TheBudgetSportsman]

The main battery leads go to the battery. Red to red and black to black. The only thing left unconnected in my case is two wires that I disconnected from the switch.

[@btjgames]

@@TheBudgetSportsman Ok awesome! That's what I though but I wasn't entirely sure! Great video by the way!

[@angelomilano3167]

Do you have to disconnect both side high beam wires ​@@TheBudgetSportsman

[@TheBudgetSportsman]

I only had one group of wires going to the headlights. Just disconnected the one wire.

[@jklo1313]

@@TheBudgetSportsman Man, confused also on my 05 Rubicon. I cut the blue wire and Butt connected in the white switch wire. The blue wire on the Factory headlight side in hanging and only connected to the Factory head light. some how my factory highbeam ( and lowbeams) is still working on the switch and nothing on the light bar. What I'm i missing? Should I splice in the hanging Factory side? that would be kind of a bummer but alteast my LED bar may work? . Yes the fuse is good. Thanks.