Installing a Table Power Feed on a PM-935 Milling Machine

[@MalcolmReynolds14]

I would like to watch the installation of the control transformer.

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

👍

[@DavidLindes]

Ditto.

[@brucewilliams6292]

I like the way you explain your thought process on how to space the gearing. The video production is top-notch.

[@myradavis2599]

Please do the controll transformer video. I am going to be using a U.S. 110VAC "align" power feed unit, and since here in Australia all power is 250 VAC I am automatically in a similar situation. I believe that your channel is one of the most instructive on you tube. In fact all of the other various machinist channels have also been a huge help for me, ( a newbie of the most naive kind ). The interacting and mutually supportive work from all of the Y-T teaching community is an incredibly powerful boost for the entire hobbyist population. We thank all of you dedicated Instructors. p.s. I would love to see you, Blondiehacks, Mr. Pete, Abom, etc., do the exact same ( very simple newbie ) part, but on different machines using different techniques. Emphasizing the fact there are many ways to do it correctly. 🧠

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

👍

[@cwgreen1938]

James, I would enjoy a video watching you set up the step down transformer if there are enough others that agree. Thanks.

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

👍

[@8710ify]

Align? Holy cow! The 6ch RC helicopter maker!

[@Clough42]

Yeah, I was a little surprised, too.

[@takedeadaim8671]

I’ve put a few of these on, some came with shims for the motor some did not, as I recall one brand had one made of heavy gasket paper. Some of the Asian add ones are made to fit most if not all “average size “ mills”. If you have a single phase mill you can pull 120V from one leg of your power in off the rotary switch if equipped or install a properly sized terminal block in a box on the mill or recessed into the metal side panel and add 120v outlets for your DRO, Light, Power feed, I went ahead and put 4 in, two from each leg of the 240V and have a dedicated outlet for the vacuum I keep next to the mill. I’ve also done the same location for outlets but pulled the 120V power off the terminal strip on the VFD on a 3 phase model. Have fun getting yours set up as you prefer, nice clean work so far!

[@mith5168]

Great video...thanks for taking the time to re-film the nuances of the installation problems you encountered.

[@DonDegidio]

Hi James, Nice video. Thanks for showing detailed instructions for the installation. Do make a video when you install the control transformer. Stay safe.

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

👍

[@mchiodox69]

I have mill envy now!

[@RobB_VK6ES]

counter-bore the crown gear to eliminate the washer stack and regain some key engagement at the same time.

[@mattym8]

Only five minutes in and want to say the editing is very good. Thanks for distilling the pitfalls.

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

👍

[@CCCfeinman55]

A slightly thinner spacer behind the bearing race might have been a simpler option…. Very nice project….pretty much like all of your videos….some of the best and clearest videos on KZbin. Oh, and yes, please to a video of the installation of the control transformer.

[@Clough42]

I don't know... Five minutes with the band saw, belt grinder, and drill press is pretty simple, and requires no precision.

[@CCCfeinman55]

@@Clough42 And I suppose the practicality must rule there, then. It is a great solution, but the engineer in me screams for a “properly fit spacer. I know, I know…it just isn’t necessary. But it feels better…🤪

[@CCCfeinman55]

@@Clough42 we’re talking 60 thou here, right? Fender washer, drilled out. Voilá. But I agree, cutting and drilling some aluminum is much more gratifying….

[@Clough42]

@@CCCfeinman55 I'm always amused to learn what people imagine I'm thinking, but I must have missed something here. Do you mean making the part I need out of a scrap of aluminum felt more gratifying than turning off the cameras, untangling my wireless mic and going to the hardware store in search of a large fender washer? I guess I never thought about it that way. I was just trying to get the video done before all of my neighbors got out their lawn mowers. If you listen closely at the end, you'll hear that I lost that race this week.

[@CCCfeinman55]

@@Clough42 eh. No, more that I’m imagining the gratification of making from empty stock, as opposed to altering a made thing. It’s all good though…10,000 ways to skin a cat.

[@hansenprecision9390]

I have had my PM935TV for about two years. The thoughts you have about it today will only get better on each time you use the machine! Wonderful machine and as you mentioned, Precision Matthews is terrific to work with. Thanks for the great video on mounting the power feed. I'm taking mine off and mounting it correctly now !!

[@Clough42]

I've been pretty happy with it, though I haven't put a lot of time on it. I had a couple situations where I was getting a little resonance and was concerned about the rigidity, but increasing the speed and pushing the cutter harder smoothed it out.

[@624Dudley]

Hello James - I circled back to this 2021 video because I’m trying to de-mystify a similar installation on a legacy Bridgeport. Your thorough coverage is really helpful! 👍

[@motari6249]

I love the step by step explanation 👍. Would love to see how you turn 220v to 120v on for the power feed.

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

👍

[@cambodiav2.0]

For x-axis, mine has double bearings (both sides) and dual key-way as well. Thanks for the video.

[@bobuk5722]

Hi James. I've installed the 230 volt ac horizontal version of this my column mill. I addd three safety features with a self built relay and transformer interlock box. I did not like mains voltage being switched by the table limit switches, 230 volt ac in UK and far too close to a suds flow - and there was no NVR function either. Also if the mill itself was manually switched off in a moment of my forgetfulness the table could continue to drive with catastrophic results. I'm sure you can work out what my solutions were and depending on your mill you may wish to consider them when you install your step down transformer, although obviously isolated 110 volts is much safer than my purchase was. I went with 24 volt ac relays and switch voltage and a proprietary NVR. The slightly annoying thing is that I've lost the adjustable manual stops due to the spring loaded table limit stops having to be installed. Cheers. BobUK.

[@barrycampbell986]

I have just picked up a Jet Mill and it came with the motor for the table. I will have to install it myself. And your video is just what I needed. Great job Thanks

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Great install James. I think that should help lots of your viewers.

[@johndebrular979]

I did install an X axis drive. Took some time setting the clearance but it works. I started the installation on the Z drive and the instruction was very poor to none at all. It was designed to hang and a crazy angle but I drilled & tapped some different mounting holes & I believe it will be OK.

[@ironhead65]

Thank you for taking the extra time, taking it all apart and putting it back together and showing the right way. I've been considering getting this mill. It's nice that you are going through, sort of making tutorials, I really appreciate it

[@foolio42]

X-axis powerfeed: best product feature since somebody put a handle on a bucket. :-)

[@howardosborne8647]

A handle on a bucket? They'll be coming out with sliced bread next😂

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

Well done James... Looks like it is working well...

[@avparsons1]

I also would like to see the installation of the transformer. Was the DRO installed when you got the new mill?

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

👍

[@chucksman2623]

Ur step by step is on point

[@chriswendt9421]

I would like to see the installation of the transformer.

[@BruceNitroxpro]

Chris Wendt , Both electrically and mechanically correct, however. You might find that a "whole shop overvoltage system" may be a good choice to install first.

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

👍

[@peterciurea7771]

looked like you could have just shaved the spacer down some.

[@markamy357]

Another typically thorough Clough installation,. It really is totally worth it to having forked out for the kit, to then install it properly without mashed together gears or misalignment thank you very much.

[@tiagolomar]

This mill is soo much better than the other one...good job...

[@zod-engineering-welding]

Great videos. I had seen you un-crate'ing video of the 940M but I didn't catch any video on this knee mill. I'm considering a PM mill as well.

[@ninthm00n]

Yet another excellent video James. I have a z-axis feed to put on my PM 950 and this is going to help a lot. I would also like to see the video of the transformer if you make one. Cheers. Joey.

[@Clough42]

I'm thinking about a power feed for the knee, but I started here.

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

👍

[@twobob]

nice work on the "fudge factor". The washers were my favourite, would have loved to have been at that design meeting.

[@routercnc9517]

Nice work. Looks like there is still clearance at full travel so you can’t get your hand trapped between the motor and the end of the table.

[@quatre1559]

Would love to see the full set up sir.

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

👍

[@artnickel7624]

I appreciate your extra work to mount and get through all the potential difficulties so we just have to watch it work like the manual says it will.

[@Crusher9mil]

Could you have chucked up the longer of the two bearing races in the lathe and face of the 60th" to get the gears to mesh properly?

[@brianburke7440]

I think I like Mr. Pete always adding a drop of oil between each surface as assembly proceeds.

[@Clough42]

If I lived somewhere with high humidity, I'd probably be in the habit of doing that, too.

[@joselrodriguez5999]

Great video! I definitively will like to see how you install the control transformer. I have a couple of 220V machines with 110V accessories and I have done nothing about it but being annoyed :)

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

👍

[@jhawker2895]

I would highly recommend the Power Knee. I have the x and power knee on my PM-935TV and I love it. Because of the short distance on the y access I didn't power that access. Yes I would like to see the stepdown video.... Great job..

[@Clough42]

How was the knee install? I think there's one in my future.

[@jhawker2895]

@@Clough42 I ordered the PM-935 with it installed. Cranking the knee up and down was not a picture I would enjoy...

[@jhawker2895]

I have a ALIGN X (PF-ALIGN-500P-X model) and I love it. I got my PM-935TV about 14 months ago ... No problems at all.

[@foxabilo]

I recognise that Align logo, they make the T-REX series of RC helicopters... interesting crossover.

[@jayjackson5748]

Instead of the spacer, you can face the brass gear on a lathe the appropriate amount to make it fit closer to the pinion. There is plenty of meat there to do it. If you go too far then shim it back. That's what I did on mine...

[@MichaelLloyd]

I like that you "circled back" and showed what your learned. I'm not glad that the supplied washers for the stop were undersized (or maybe the slots in the bracket were oversized?). Whatever you make a video of, I'll watch it

[@Clough42]

I think the washers may have been intended for something else. It looks to me like they were expecting the existing stop screws to be larger. Not sure. But honestly, given all the problems that these kinds of installs usually entail, this one was super easy.

[@johndebrular979]

Videos such as this was very helpful

[@toddk.5873]

I installed a similar one. mine was from Shars. It didn't have the spring loaded stops, just a round slug. I made knurled hand knobs & soldered them to the bolts to tighten the stops by hand. Mine were socket head screws & I cut a allen key down & soldered the knob to the allen key to the head of the bolt. Quick & easy adjustment of stops. No wrench required.

[@johndebrular979]

I just purchased a step pulley version of this mill and I plan to install the same power feed. I do appreciate your videos,

[@bulletproofpepper2]

Sweet power feed! Thanks for sharing!

[@brucewier]

I have the same machine and power feed. The installation went fairly well. The bracket that holds the limit switches was pre-bent to the wrong angle and had to be straightened a bit. Great videos thanks!

[@Clough42]

I thought it needed to be straight for this mill, so I actually disassembled it and flattened it. Then I realized it needed to be bent and re-bent it. By then, I didn't know what the original angle had been, so I cut that part from the video to avoid creating more confusion.

[@keithmonarch447]

Hey Mr James. Take it apart, and use some of your favorite grease, for the drive ⚙ gears. I wouldn't run it dry, my friend!! Unless it already has a grease port available?

[@Clough42]

The gear is covered in thick, sticky grease. It's clear, so you can't see it in the video

[@keithmonarch447]

@@Clough42 Thanks for your response. This drive unit installed 👌, should be a nice addition for the table. Take care now...

[@woodscreekworkshop9939]

I have 2 of the same Align power feeds on my 949 (X and Z) and I think they are made well. Definitely worth the extra cost from cheaper ones that PM also offers.

[@hansengblom6564]

PM-935? What happened to the PM-040?

[@scottb6282]

Informative, thankyou James.

[@Zt3v3]

Align makes RC helicopters, crazy.

[@mikemarriam]

That was a very useful video for me. I bought a second hand mill with a very similar power drive that has been an agrivation. I think I know why after watching this.

[@jameshoward9275]

how will step down voltage without the common white wire?

[@taranson3057]

I would like to see the step down from 240 to 110. I use a similar device for DC step down on my DIY CNC machine

[@williampadgett2259]

Just a thought... when I need 240v and 120v on the same machine I just run 4wire Romex. You can bug the 120 off one leg of the 240 and use the 4th(white) wire as your neutral. Sounds like the easier solution to me. Good informative video! This will be helpful when I install my power feed.. I plan on using Align as well.

[@edvig2015]

that's how I'd do it also

[@Clough42]

It would be easier if I were running the circuit today. But 18-years-ago me didn't need it and saved a few bucks on Romex. :)

[@stevensmart8868]

Hi James. Great vid as always. I have the same power fed unit on a genuine Bridgeport and I also had to mess with the spacing of the brass gear. From memory I turned some material of the face and then re shimmed the same as you did and went with fell till about right. It's been going well for about 3 years of hobby shop use so far.

[@frankward709]

It's very cool and it fun getting new toys

[@seanwolfe9321]

On my PM-727m...I dislike the limit switch cable just draped across. I'm curious if you're going to clean yours up. (The Clough I have gotten to know wouldn't leave it sagging his bellow!)

[@taoufikbouzid8779]

Good job. Explanation in details thanks for sharing

[@kurtbilinski1723]

I have a PM-935 as well. If you add the Z power feed, make sure to remove the manual handle so that it doesn't hit hits you in the nuts. Not that that happened to me or anything...

[@g.tucker8682]

James, are you planning to power the Z (knee)? I was going to hold off because cash was tight. But in very short order I was sick of cranking that big handle. I started digging behind the sofa cushions to scare up the dough for the PM-supplied Align Z feed. X and Y are on cheaper eBay units. I ran the three power cords to a small weathertight junction box tucked up inside the knee, with a single supply cord to a nearby outlet.

[@Clough42]

Yeah, I think a z feed is in my future. Junction box in the knee isn't a bad idea. Unfortunately, there isn't a nearby 120v outlet. It's a ceiling drop 240V that used to drop in between my table saw, jointer, and dust collector.

[@emilgabor88]

It would be nice to see how much power it has, if you can stop it whit hands. I would like to put a similar on z axis on my mill.

[@julianyoung3864]

Very good video helped me a lot thanks

[@williambaxter7689]

Thanks James for the video, I am looking at getting the same mill. I noticed you seem to have mounted the mill on some tubing could you possibly touch on that some time, and any other observations about the machine would be appreciated. Thanks again.

[@doseven]

Hey ALIGN is the same company that made the RC helicopters that I used to fly, they made good stuff!

[@Clough42]

Yeah. I did a double-take when I saw that.

[@FixDaily]

14:49 a bit dangerous?

[@Clough42]

The camera angle probably makes it look worse than it is, but I suppose we should all remember it's a milling machine.

[@georgel5308]

Great video. Align also makes rc helicopters. Decent for the money too

[@not4younot4you70]

Sound like something is grinding I would ask them about the noise and compare.

[@mikehancock4624]

Definitely would like to see video on transformer.

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

👍

[@jimcollins9316]

Love your video! Would love to see the transformer video.

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

👍

[@crichtonbruce4329]

I've only worked with a few mills, I notice that on yours the crank support casting partly covers the T slots of the table which means T slot nuts can't be slid in from that side. This seems a massive PITA for setting up clamping and fixturing. Have I missed something?

[@Clough42]

The table has pockets at the ends for inserting the nuts. They're under the trays.

[@crichtonbruce4329]

@@Clough42 Thanks. You'r a damn fine presenter and teacher by the way.

[@BrilliantDesignOnline]

I have the same unit for my Rongfu clone (HFT) which is requiring significant mods. Having mounted on a table, my control unit for various reasons needed to be mounted on the LH side, and for clearance needed to be mounted horizontal with the control box aft; works great but had significant challenges since the geometry of the Harbor Freight is quite different from the bridgeport style but your install came out very clean and you presented it very well especially the time travel part...Hmmm, seems like some association with TOT :-) Upgrading the mill to time travel mode.

[@GatorGlider]

Is that the same ALIGN that makes RC helicopters?

[@russnixon6020]

James, I know nothing of machine shop except what I've learned from watching you and others but I hope to have a shop of my own in the future. I do, however, know something of aligning bevel gears from building and re-building many automobile differentials. These require shimming in two axis to align the pinion and crown gear. The technique I learned is to use a colored grease (Royal purple or white lithium) on the gears to see where the alignment needs to be moved and approximately how much. The grease will leave a pattern on the gear teeth as they mesh and the object is to make the contact patch an oval in the center of the teeth. Your problem is to move the pattern from the root or tip of the tooth to centered on the face of the tooth. I'm thinking the noise difference between the direction of motion may be caused by some asymmetry in the gear set that caused different meshing in each direction as the drive side and the coast side of the teeth switch. This may wear in or it just may be inherent in the design. I'm guessing there.

[@Clough42]

Not a bad guess. You're likely right. Though there's not much I can do about it, given the pilot bearing is bored into the casting. I also wonder what else is going on in the feed assembly, since there appears to be a disconnect clutch of some kind, too.

[@bcwrangler]

Great video on the PF Was this a power feed from PM or one you picked up? Lastly...I would appreciate seeing a video on a control transformer installation. Cheers....Wayne

[@Clough42]

It's the high-end one that PM sells.

[@awashbowler]

The bearing inner race spacer is long and is meant to be shortened to get your proper gear back lash. These power feed units are almost "universal" for most knee mills. As you could imagine, not every mill is exactly the same so some fitting, i.e. adjusting the spacer length to get your gear lash, is necessary for installation. Adjusting that spacer would have gave you more key engagement in the handle as well.

[@Clough42]

Not sure I buy that. They provide a big stack of shims and tell you to use those to adjust the gear lash. Thinning a spacer like that and keeping it parallel (it's in a precision bearing stackup) is a pretty advanced operation.

[@mauserkk98]

Nice job , shame you don't seem to have some suitable spanners and seem to be using pump pliers ?.

[@bruceanderson9461]

You probably have never used knipex paralle jaw pliers. Check them out. Pricey but great pliers.

[@Clough42]

Knipex pliers wrench. Link in the video description.

[@flipwilson8694]

Please video the control transformer.

[@robbypenor5009]

James, I just installed the same power feed today on my PM-950V. Thanks for the video It was really the only instructions I had. The included instruction like you said were very poor. Question: My bearing housing did have the pins that went into the table and the kit I received had new pins but no holes in the new housing. Just a couple of dimples. I did not see it in the video but did you install pins? One safety issue I do see with this power feed is that there is a pinch point very close to the power feed handle between the power feed and the factory handle when moving to the right. I was thinking of making a spacer and removing the factory handle or making/moding the factory handle. Your thoughts.

[@steveaylor376]

I thought you had a PM 940 .... with a stock power feed on other side. What happened ... no explanations?

[@OuroborosArmory]

Could this motor kit be used to do a CNC conversion? Obviously you will have to figure out how to connect to a computer, and possibly supply a different motor..

[@Cenedd]

At the risk of answering when I also know very little: no. The motor in that is a simple motor. The motor required for CNC needs to be able to precisely position the table. A normal motor would move the table an indeterminate amount depending on how much resistance there was (weight on table) and how fast it was going. That sort of thing is usually done by a stepper motor (or perhaps a servo in higher budget installs) which can be told to move a set number of steps one way or the other. It can get more complicated with closed loop steppers (that also report how far they have moved vs how far you asked them to move) but that is the basics of why it wouldn't be suitable.

[@9z4clb]

Hi James, Great video as always. I'm stepping up, size wise, from my CNCed Grizzly G8689 Mini-Mill to a PM-935TS-3PH with all the whistles and bells, should be here in about another month. Would like to see a video on the DRO installation and any other content on the PM935 for that matter. In the meantime, I'm going to town on buying tooling and instrumentation to compliment it....... very exciting times indeed!

[@Clough42]

I'll do a video on the quill scale install and do a tour of the rest. The only interesting bit is where I put the Z and the low profile bracket on Y. Most of it was reused from the 940 install. There are photos on Instagram. @clough42

[@9z4clb]

@@Clough42 Great! I take it the DRO installation went smoothly then?

[@9z4clb]

X-Axis power feed just installed. That was pretty much uneventful, except I had to make the anticipated aluminum spacer outlined in this excellent video. The spacer was easily executed on my Crossfire CNC plasma cutter and the two bolt-holes were drilled after transfer punching. This Align kit is very comprehensive as far as parts go.Their instructions of course suck, and the video certainly made it easy to do! Now it's on to the Z-axis! :)

[@Clough42]

@@9z4clb very cool. I hope to get my crossfire up and running today.

[@9z4clb]

@@Clough42 I bought the Shars Quill DRO kit, the kit is very comprehensive and the installation was uneventful. Works well.

[@barrygerbracht5077]

Now to add the Z axis... My only complaint about the align power feed is that the rapid is not as rapid some of the others. I can crank the handles faster myself. I've never had any torque issues, even hanging 200-300 lb off the end of the table (which causes a noticeable drag on the ways) pushing a 4" face mill to the limit of the motor (5hp). I just wired a 2 gang box on the back of the mill to power the DRO and 2 axis feeds. The motor is 3 phase and I don't know enough about electrical stuff to mess with that. A simple plug and extension chord to a 120 outlet was simple enough.

[@Clough42]

Yeah, it seems to have plenty of torque, and I'd also prefer a little more speed. The two are most certainly related. I think a knee feed is in my future.

[@j.patrickdonaghue199]

Hi James As usual I love your video I am new to this machining I am a gunsmith also relatively new I am retired from 32 years of law enforcement anyway I noticed that you went from a PM 940 to the pm 935 I currently own a Grizzly 759 ( 704 with a DRO) I love that machine but it is a little small I am considering the PM935 and then converting my grizzly over to inc as you did Do you like the 935 is it better than the 940 I also am working out of my garage I am curious as to your feeling about these machines I have learned so much watching your videos Excellent instructor Have a great day

[@Clough42]

The 940 I received had several issues, so I returned it and got the 935. So far, I'm very happy with it. It's smaller than a full size knee mill, but seems very capable.

[@j.patrickdonaghue199]

@@Clough42 thanks for getting back to me I will probably go with one as soon as they are available again

[@rohde1017]

That install looked so easy compared to how building my own table power feed with a nema43 went.

[@nadam35]

please show the transformer installation, we need to learn this stuff

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

👍

[@joeldriver381]

Very nice machine but I don't think I could get it into my basement. The quality of it looks much better than the Chinese made machines. This has me thinking about the Taiwanese made PM-728VT. Great content!

[@BruceNitroxpro]

Joel Driver , The Chinese would be my dead last choice... either top flight units from the EU market or Taiwan would be OK.

[@Clough42]

If you Google around a bit, you will find photos of people taking them apart, skidding them down the stairs, and reassembling in basement workshops. It's not something I think I would enjoy

[@GregBadabinski]

I've really been enjoying my PM-728VT. I'm coming from a Grizzly G8689, so it's a massive step up. The manual has some instructions on taking it apart to move it, but I'll agree that it doesn't look like a whole lot of fun!

[@joeldriver381]

@@Clough42 not on my list of fun ways to spend a weekend either.

[@g.tucker8682]

Joel, I was very close to buying the 728 and just wanted more grunt and working envelope. I went with this machine, but with the step-pulley head. I was forced to go with the shorter 3-phase motor to keep the overall height down (basement shop is just over 7 feet), but the upside is that running it on a VFD gets me 5000 rpm. I broke it into a few assemblies and got it through a 30" doorway and down interior stairs with no great difficulties except the base/column. Needed a buddy to help with that. Two-day project and I'd do it again in a heartbeat.

[@toolbox-gua]

Where did you get thar very nice tray to protect the table and keeps everything (tools and parts) from going overboard? ;)

[@ericsandberg3167]

James....nice vid. Be very careful with the new drive, you get one of your fingers caught in that handle between it and the new power feed and you will be disfigured for life. They make a push to engage handle to prevent this kind of accident, you might want to invest in one of them.....much cheaper than a mangled finger.

[@Clough42]

Oh, interesting. I was noticing that it's pretty close. That's not a bad idea.

[@lasermike2147]

Even if you don't mangle a finger, it still hurts like a dickens and is scary.

[@waldemarii]

I would really like that mill.

[@cjones7588]

Wouldn't it just been easier to take .060 off of the bushing using your lathe? Rather than going through the trouble of making the spacer. I'm just curious if there was some reason you did it that way.

[@Stefan_Boerjesson]

Great work but rather complicated. Made an adapter between the hand crank and the motor a lot easier. The controll unit is ready....

[@gregghooper]

How long before you get your finger stuck between the crank and the motor housing?

[@Clough42]

Are you starting a pool? I'll take never for $10.

[@grendel1960a]

just a thought on that spacer that bought the bearing surface forward @ 5.51, could that not have been machined so the end came flush with the shoulder on the shaft?, instead of adding a 60 thou plate behind the drive unit?, this would then have brought the gear within the range of the shims. after all the kit is for a mill, so you theoretically have the capability to thin out that shim accurately.

[@Clough42]

That's definitely a possibility. It would need to be a little longer to make sure it clamps. I'm not sure if there would be enough rage to get a good mesh.

[@justinbrewer8408]

Awesome video. I’m looking at ordering this same mill. I’m trying to decide between a single phase vs three phase machine. If I went three phase I’ll have to get a phase converter put in. Is there a huge benefit to three phase over single phase in a mill? I would sure love to avoid a phase converter if the benefit isn’t worth it.Thanks again for the great content

[@josephwilliamcosta]

I thought you had a PM-940? I just watched the videos of you installing the DRO. There were no videos of this new mill.

[@Clough42]

Long story. I mentioned it in a video, but the '940 had issues and went back.

[@williammcrae3177]

@@Clough42 which video please?

[@davidbelchamber6102]

I'm considering purchase of a PM-835S with a 220VAC 3 Phase motor and VFD so your series on VFD installation was really useful. It will be running on a single phase 220 VAC circuit. That package is about $1.7k less than the PM-935TV. Apart from the obvious difference in table size, are there any reasons that you can think of that would justify going with the PM-935TV? I'm also investigating what it would take to integrate linear scales into a Centroid (Acorn open circuit or Oak closed circuit) DIY package as a DRO that could be upgraded to full 3 axis CNC in the future, without spending a lot on equipment that would become redundant. Any thoughts/suggestions?

[@TomChame]

Very neat, thanks.

[@ogaugeclockwork4407]

If you’re getting a difference in gear noise from one direction to the other it could be that you have a little backlash in the feed screw bearings. That was my experience in one installation.

[@Clough42]

Oh, that's worth checking with an indicator on the end of the screw.