Installing an EG4 3000 in an RV | Easiest Inverter install for an RV

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[@fronniebealer7808]

I am privileged to have a friend who is an electrician. He is generous with his knowledge. I am glad you got all your stuff done well and neatly.

[@AndrewJohnson149]

This has been a great series! Would love to hear an update on how it is working now. Thank you!!

[@burlingtonbill4687]

Interesting. On our Brinkley they pre-wired for an inverter. I put in a 3,000 watt with a built-in transfer switch. Truly plug and play. Since install we spent last summer in Alaska and this past winter on the BLM in Arizona. All off grid. Two 370-watt panels and four Battleborn 100ah batteries. Burlington Bill busking on the road and here on you tube.

[@mkz6475]

Nice set up! I watched the battery video first. Funny thing is that I’m watching all of the same videos/channels like you did. I guess this brought up your videos. As a master electrician I find it best to learn from a variety of people to design what I feel will be the best system for me. So I’m going to incorporate little things I like from each set up I have watched. I’m going 48V and have been sold on the EG4 LL. You gave great info on the inverters. I am still unsure of which one to go with.

[@2KrazyKampers]

Thank you. Yes, I like to watch and find the best from each video.

[@michaelbradley1636]

Signature Solar the very best current price on the 3000W inverter currently. I spent about 8 hours searching for anything else on eBay, etc., etc., etc. There is NOTHING else currently that can handle a 500V PV input, which is what I need to run 10 x 250W panels at 8.75A input running in SERIES at about 37V VOC. That's over 370V VOC PV input at almost 9A. This will enable me to just connect the 10 x 250W panels with the standard included cables in series, and connect them to the 3000W inverter. I plan to have one 70Ah 48V LifePO4 battery for backup. 99% of the time I'll be running off the Grid with a 50A connection, and this will also be connected, but if the A/C goes out, I hope the battery will keep everything running until I hookup my 5500/6500 Harbor Freight generator. Fortunately, the EG4 inverter can be adjusted to favor PV input, battery, or A/C input, and can handle multiple electricity inputs simultaneously and automatically.

[@larryr3951]

Interesting and helpful video. 12 v side of existing converter On the 120 volt side you have replaced the input from shore power to eg4 120 v outlet. The old rv converter doesn’t care were you get your 120 v from. Therefore leave the 12v side alone except for breaker or fuse going to charge the old 12 v battery. Disconnect this an leave the rest alone.

[@richardpeatman7260]

Great Job!!

[@JaredTwomey]

The 30 amp switch is not as useful as you might think it is. For one the power watchdog will not allow power if the pedestal is miswired. And if for some reason, the power watchdog did allow power through while miswired, for example let’s say you had a hot neutral, you didn’t break the neutral. You only broke the black wire so you would still pop the inverter.

[@Jack2of3]

The exact system I'm going to install. I have a 2024 22RBE with the inverter prep so it might be a bit easier for me. Thanks for the vid!

[@2KrazyKampers]

for the Inverter prep, all you need to do is cut the wire that is looped in wherever the prep is and then attach it to the EG4. Not having to run the wire will save a lot of time

[@v8eater2]

The wires, both input and output, from the inverter must have a grommet going through that aluminum plate.

[@2KrazyKampers]

It does, I installed it after I filmed this video.

[@scottp3287]

Exactly YIKES

[@Tiersmoke92555]

I have made the same comment and asked the same question on others channel. I have been generating my own power for the last few years with a traditional style system. Components fail and mistakes happen. Whats the game plan when a function of that all in one fails? Oh and will the additional inverter be compatible with the older one in the future?

[@alexanderpappas68]

So, You installed the exact system I bought 2 yrs ago and installed in my rv the same way. Whats your opionion after 6 months.? I have a lot of suggestions for eg4. Som much could be improbed to make this system as good as you present it. I would not recommend this system to anyone at this point. It will not probide the power you need in a 30 amp rv, the system is not reliable for several reasons incl overheating and the fact is will not turn on with less than a minimum of 100 volts of input from either solar or generator or anything.

[@yv7584]

Might need a wire nipple from the 2 holes u drilled on the backplate where your ran the wires out

[@2KrazyKampers]

one was put in later

[@jimmathon352]

Hi, thank you for this great information. I'm about to put one EG4 3k 48 in my van, but I can't find anywhere How many amps the inverter will pull from? Let's say a garage outlet while it's charging at the house. Do you know if a 15 amp outlet would work? I see that you can lower the charge amperage into the battery. I'm guessing that would lower the amp draw from Shore power? Thank you for any comment

[@2KrazyKampers]

You can change what it pulls. Its a very simple setting that allows you to adjust based on where you are

[@glenludwig5135]

You didn’t mention anything about when you disconnected the D/C converter charger from A/C panel and how you fed the 12 volt fuse box. What feeds your 12 volt or how does it convert from A/C to D/C now. By the way awesome video. Thanks

[@2KrazyKampers]

That is in the other video. Yes, we disconnected the existing charger. The all in one system charges the batteries and the 12v side of the RV is powered by a 48 to 12 volt converter

[@motohomemadness]

So you made me curios on mounting options as my inverter is flat on the ceiling of a storage bay and I want to replace it. I checked the manual I didn’t see anything about not mounting it flat, where did you see this? What I did notice was the requirement for 19” of clearance for the top and bottom. Was surprised you didn’t mount yours sideways to satisfy that requirement and get good air flow.

[@2KrazyKampers]

In speaking with Signature Solar, they advised to not mount it that way and after looking at our RV, they advised to mount it as we did

[@GregoryRamsey]

Nice heat sync you mounted inverter to.👍 buuut, your lack of insulators for the wires going through your sheet metal is concerning. Lots of vibration in an RV. 🤓

[@2KrazyKampers]

they were added after I made the video

[@amsoiltek]

So a question for the group, why are installers still doing 12-volt battery setups? One or two 48v packs and an all-in-one controller seems to be a no-brainer. I saw the setup that one guy did on the 5 to Go channel and he rolled is own battery packs. Oh, one other thing that nobody is talking about is how are you powering your breakaway switch, same buck converter?

[@2KrazyKampers]

Breakaway is powered by the 48-12 volt converter. Many people do 12v because it's easier. You dont have to have a 48-12v converter. Also, the all in one controllers do need a lot of solar. With a 12v system, you can get away with 2-4 panels.

[@InVinoVeritas.]

Great video!! Question on installation on the EG3000, are the mounting bracket holes @ 16" to match most home vertical framing?

[@2KrazyKampers]

I honestly didn't check since it only weighs 24 pounds and I installed a board to mount it to. The board is screwed into the vertical framing

[@Despiser25]

What about things like alternator and generator charging and using the house batteries to start the RV using the acc circuit? Ever hear of a thing called a Chargeverter? Ive got an older RV with a modified sine wave inverter and its time for it to go. Trying to decipher what I have is the hardest part, lol.

[@2KrazyKampers]

I dont know about starting the RV (as in a motor home) but I would not use a car alternator to try to charge lithium, you will ruin the alternator. Also, I would not use a modified sine wave inverter, that can fry electronics.

[@TomMelissaVought]

the two wires that you mentioned with the 12 volt side of the converter, what are their purpose? ( the 2 wires that you mentioned you disconnected on the 12 volt side of converter}

[@jeremyfogt6798]

I have the watchdog also. It only turns on the downstream power after it passes all the test. You probably noticed it now that it is installed. Did you put something behind the battery breaker bar? It looks like you metal back panel will now be at 48V.

[@2KrazyKampers]

We used a 48 to 12 volt converter for the 12v side of the RV

[@jeffsteele1295]

Like the 300K inverter but thinking for most people the larger inverter would be better or at lease motorhome with 50A service. I will go into detail if you do not mind me doing so, or you could delete my comment so no one could see it if you wish. The EG4 while has impressive spec compared to many others. The fact that it has one MPPT input is a major draw back. You see your 50A service from your electric company input is 120/240 Split Phase voltage. The 3,000 watt inverter from EG4 has a Single Phase 120V AC output with a max current of 25 amps. They do not offer the6500EX-48 all in one panel anymore but 6.000 unit. The 6,000 unit has an output of 120/240 AC that is split Phase . This mean instead of only one max current of 25 amp at 120VAC only. Now you would have the option of 25 amps output for each leg and a maximum of 50 amps ( 25amps for each leg ). Also being 240 VAC output you could get an air conditioner unit that would use less power to run about 1/2 the power . With the 3,000 inverter you could only run 1 air unit and some other units. With the 6,000 unit you could run 2 air conditioner units and if you could later upgrade to maybe a 220AC unit you could even run 3 air condition units with other devices. This is what I understand and welcome any feed back thanks for your time and letting me express my option. This does not mean I'm a 100% right but the way I see it.

[@2KrazyKampers]

a 3000 watt inverter is more than adequate for most RVers. Yes, you can put a 6000watt or 6500 watt inverter however that would be overkill for most RVers, If you are going off grid with an RV, you generally would not run 2 AC's at the same time because it would use up your battery supply rather quickly. With a 3000 watt inverter and our battery bank, we are able to run our entire coach, including having the AC, microwave and Rachel's hair dryer running all at the same time. On average, you should figure about 100amp hours of battery bank per hour that you want to run your AC. That means if you wanted to run two AC's for 8 hours, you should be carrying at least 1600amp hours of battery. That would be a larger battery bank and would be a lot of weight to add to your RV. Also, for the EG4, you can run two of them together for split phase and it would only be about 50 pounds for both of them and your total cost would be less than $1400

[@jeffsteele1295]

Point understood and thanks for your reply. After consideration I agree that it would be somewhat of a over kill for most RV's. Still I like many features of the 6,000 over the 3,000 but taking price you are correct my friend. For me after thinking about it I do not have money to just throw out there so the 3,000 would be a better option for me. Thanks so much for you help and understanding just trying to make the best decision for me .@@2KrazyKampers

[@robertdoyen5434]

Very nice setup. Thanks for sharing your experience with us. If something happens to your surge protector do you have to pull everything back out or did you pull in a access panel ? Looks like a great system. Thanks From Wisconsin

[@2KrazyKampers]

I am planning on adding an access panel but right now, it is only 4 screws to remove the Breaker Box to get to it

[@robertdoyen5434]

@@2KrazyKampers 😎

[@paulweaver7426]

I understand the concern for the extra 30 amp switch after the watchdog. However, if you mount that watchdog in the closed area of the bay, how are you going to see the lights. Seems if it wired wrong or there is an error, the watchdog would catch it and not send power thru .

[@2KrazyKampers]

The watchdog also has bluetooth so I can check it from my phone.

[@a50cobra]

Hi Joe, you mentioned in one of your videos, that your son is a master electrician in the Central Florida area. Any chance you could provide his contact information? I would like to discuss my set up and have him examine and quote my set up. Thanks in advance!

[@2KrazyKampers]

absolutely. His name is John Paul. Brighter Days Electric [phone]. www.brighterdaysfl.com. Tell him you are one of our subscribers

[@PKCrouse]

Would an EG4 3000 work in a 50amp RV? Can’t picture how to deal with the 2 hot leads. Two EG4s in split?

[@2KrazyKampers]

you would need either two EG4's or only power one leg. That is the case with most Inverters in RV's unless you go with something like the Victron 3000 2 x 120.

[@PKCrouse]

@@2KrazyKampers Looks like the EG4 6000XP might do the trick as well.

[@BiteNHold1]

No issues with the EG4 not having much clearance on the top and bottom for cooling? EG4 in the manual shows it needs 20" top and bottom.

[@2KrazyKampers]

no. it works great. The folks at signature solar helped deign my system and they said it was fine

[@sreimert]

Doesn't it need a 48-12 DC-DC converter for tie-in to the camper's 12V DC system?

[@2KrazyKampers]

yes. that is shown in the other video

[@petervanderheyden-sh6io]

I can't understand why you are running ac in and ac out to breaker panel? Don't you just take the wire going to the shore power cord and put that in the ac out of the inverter?

[@2KrazyKampers]

You need to supply power directly from shore power to the inverter. The inverter then supplies the power to the breaker panel. You want the shortest run possible between the batteries and inverter due to voltage drop therefore the inverter needs to be close to the batteries.

[@petervanderheyden-sh6io]

what if you just cut the trailer shore power cord and put it in the inverter?

[@2KrazyKampers]

You still want shore power to be able to charge the batteries and run the coach when electricity is available

[@papasammeh]

I have a 6500ex at home; it's crazy loud - fan noise) - how's the 3000 watt w/ that? I figure at night it'd drive me crazy.

[@2KrazyKampers]

We don’t here it in the bed but if you open the pass through, you hear it,

[@wewa1000able]

I put in the EG4 6000XP and the same battery, adding more batteries soon. I know someone mentionrd before but can i leave my 12V lead acid battery hooked into the 12V RV side and the 48 to 12v converter and the truck altenator will both charge the 12v battery? Will there be any issues if both truck and 48 to 12 are hooked to the 12v battery while running down the road?

[@2KrazyKampers]

No there won’t

[@HCDarrellBroussard]

You detached the charger / converter? If so how does 120v step down to 12v? Just trying to understand what happens with the 12 volt requirements.

[@ChrisBairKeto]

The 48v dc batteries have a dc to dc transformer/converter that supplies the 12v side of things. Joe very briefly referred to it but I'm sure a lot more details on that are coming in the battery video.

[@2KrazyKampers]

you use a 48 to 12 converter. You will see that in the next video

[@petervanderheyden-sh6io]

isnt ac in for generator, not breaker panel?

[@2KrazyKampers]

AC in is the power that is coming from shore power. AC out is the power that inverter supplies to the breaker panel and outlets

[@eroenker]

With your setup of 15kW storage and solar setup, are you finding any need for a generator?

[@2KrazyKampers]

We bring a generator just in case but have not found a need for it. There was one day where we ran it for about 2 hours to top off the batteries from 80% because it was raining and the weather report was calling for 3 days of rain but we didn't really need to

[@eroenker]

@@2KrazyKampers Thanks for this info. I'm looking to add your exact system to my 30a rig. But I'm contemplating removing the existing 350lb onboard generator and putting the new system in that space. As a result, I wouldn't loose any of my existing storage bays.

[@redrollback]

How would I hook up my generator to the eg4 ?

[@2KrazyKampers]

what type of generator? You could do put a manual transfer switch or get their new unit that has connections for a second AC in.

[@seanmalone7920]

Can somone help me understand what solar array i need to use this in my 16ft enclosed trailer its 7ft wide. And i know the minimum solar requires in 1200. Anyone that can help me understand this better? THANX GUYS

[@2KrazyKampers]

You would have to run four twenty four volt panels in series. That would give you enough voltage. You can also install as many panels as you can fit and install them in parallel and then add a boost solar charge controller amzn.to/3W18gDM This will boost the 12v up to what you need for a 48v system.

[@your2nd]

You will hate this, solar panels will never power this unit, never have enough panels to keep it running. Not enough roof space , really bad choice!

[@2KrazyKampers]

Our solar powered it just fine. We were contestants on RV unplugged and used this system. I had eight 24v two hundred watt panels. They were run 4 in a series and then the 2 series connected in parallel, While we were on RV unplugged, we ran our microwave, coffee pot, air fryer, A/C, heater (it got cold at night) and more. The batteries never dropped below 80% and the next day the sun charged them back up.