Installing bridging

[@shawnn6926]

My house was built 2 years ago with I-beam floor joists. The span is 16' and it's a little bouncy. I installed 2 rows of X bridging spaced evenly after watching your video and notice a huge difference. Thanks.

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

Glad I could help

[@nbco55]

I think you forgot an e, or you're giving your floor a big hug. ;)

[@shawnn6926]

@@nbco55 Yup. Thanks. I think I fixed it now.

[@larrythebarberman]

Added cross strut to floor joist today, to replace one I took out, to add recess spot light underneath the original strut - now I fully understand what they do, and super glad I did not skip doing it

[@FallLineJP]

Here for the exact same reason. Great video, thank you!

[@alexaskey2240]

Excellent video, Tim! I have weak points in my flooring due to over-spanned joists and will be installing bridging to secure the floors. Thank you very much!

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

Glad it helped you

[@organogold8]

Thank you so much for the information!! I appreciate it 😊

[@BrianMaphis]

Hello. I recently purchased a new build ranch home with an open concept on a full basement. The builder used 2x10 for floor joists. After being in the home for sometime I’ve noticed floor bouncing. Builder did come back and put in cross bracing throughout. Still having floor bouncing. Would you recommended the solid method as you speak of to add more support? Or even putting additional 2x10 boards attached to the current ones?

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

@@BrianMaphis without looking at the floor either would work. Solid bridging would be easier and cheaper. What is the span? Where did they put the bridging?

[@Kris-82]

so if you have floor 20ft x 8ft, and joist are running along the longer side how you bridge them? you cross the underneath horizontally in contrast to what you draw @1:46 - vertically?

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

If the joists are 20 feet long you would need 2 sets of bridging no more than 8 feet apart. You can use cross or solid bridging. If subfloor is already in use solid bridging.

[@shawnsmith1905]

There we go. I'll be bridging the joists.

[@mikegrimaldi5844]

Question: can you install bracing after the above floor is fully loaded, or is it wise to temporarily move the load and install bracing.

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

@@mikegrimaldi5844 you can install bracing after load is applied.

[@mikekim6374]

Great video! Does cross bracing work as well or better than sistering joists if I'm not concerned about vertical deflection? These are TJI 110 joists spanning 12 feet 16" OC

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

@@mikekim6374 cross bridging will help distribute the load and stabilize it

[@glennsmith1208]

1500sqft ranch. 1969 construction. Been in the crawlspace several time and this has bugged me for years. All my crossbraces are attached to the top but none are attached at the bottom. I don't know why it was done (or not done) this way. If I need to nail these in (nails are in the bridge pieces, go figure). I've tried to nail a few in. I don't have the space to really do this so I was thinking of just getting 2x4 ro 2x6 blocks and blocking the spaces. I am not a carpenter so my cuts are trash/ no precise. I just want to get my house fixed up without spending as much as the house cost on a contractor. The odds are slim I get a contractor worth what they charge.

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

@@glennsmith1208 if you have the money you could invest in a mitre saw for better cuts and maybe a battery or electric nail gun. These would make it easier. Another option would be to screw them in with the appropriate screws.

[@markcarlock9756]

We found mice had gotten into the Crawlspace due to previous owners not paying attention. We removed all the insulation when the crawlspace was encapsulated. This exposed the fact that the bozo's installing the batt insulation between my floor joists had disconnected the metal floor braces instead of cutting the batts to fit between them. What's the best way to return the structural integrity to the floor joists? Attempt to re-install the metal braces or install blocks?

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

Check to see if floor is level, if level or real close just reinstall metal bracing. If sagging you could try to jack it up then reinstalling bracing.

[@markcarlock9756]

@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 Thank you!

[@snomisdivad]

Im building a 24'x24' cabin with a lvl at 12'. Im using 2"x10"x12'' for my floor jiost, 24"oc. Where would I put the bridging at? 6'?

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

Yes, that would be the best place

[@rafaelLacerda646]

If my room is 11ft wide would one row of bridging down the middle help make the floor stiff

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

Yes, that would help

[@brandonvanetten8134]

I have the metal x shape but can still feel bounce in the floor. And squeak.

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

You can install more bridging, solid bridging would probably work best

[@michaelsuggett710]

Hey Tim, during the installation of our HVAC system, they knocked out a bunch of cross bridges to get the round air duct in. There is no room now for a 2x10 or a new cross bridge to go in its place. Is there anything you can do? You might be able to fit a 2x4 under the air duct, but that's about it.

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

That is what your going to have to do. Put the 2 x 4 across the bottom.

[@michaelsuggett710]

@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 Awesome! I can work on that. It is good knowing that I can use a 2x4, it is hard to find stuff online.

[@eltonnoway7864]

Check out the KZbin video title: How To Remove Bounce From Floor - by Shell Busey (Its old but shows the HVAC ducts issue and loss of bracing )

[@XLongBeach]

I have a really bouncy floor in my kitchen and want to do cross bridging will I have to just do it under my kitchen or all across the house

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

The code says anything over 8 ft should have it but if your kitchen floor is the only bouncy one I would only do it

[@brianquinn5500]

I have I-joist for my subfloor and feel plenty of bounce and vibration in my house. Anything different cerning I joist vs dimensional lumber floor joist?

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

@@brianquinn5500 no, they should have cross or solid bridging to help reduce the bounce in the floor

[@GUITARTIME2024]

If it's above a crawlspace, consider adding a beam.

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

@@brianquinn5500 no, bridging would help take the bounce out.

[@jzeman]

Does cross briding need to run the full length?... I have joist spans filled with ducts where the briding is interrupted.. not enough room for a brace

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

It should, if the duct work is in the way you could add blocking under the duct. If it is new construction you could ask the building inspector, codes vary by location.

[@dlatt-kx5ir]

I had foam insulation installed in my crawlspace, so almost impossible to install any bridging. Should I follow the 2x4 method and brace underneath the joists?

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

Did you use open or closed cell foam? The closed cell has some rigidity to it, open cell does not. Adding any bracing would help with bouncing or bowing floor.

[@dlatt-kx5ir]

@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 It is closed cell foam, but does not completely fill the joist -- I never checked after they were done. So, do you think if the joists are completely filled there might not be any bounce?

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

@@dlatt-kx5ir I think most of the bounce would go away if they were full

[@GUITARTIME2024]

Considered adding a beam?

[@smjohn4640]

What if the subfloor is already installed? Can i use cross bridging? I'm a new homeowner and my kitchen floor feels like a trampoline.

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

If you have access you can install it after the flooring has been installed

[@TheMcMeow]

When installing cross bridging instead of using nails can you screw the pieces from either side of the floor joist?

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

It is usually recommended that you nail or screw through the board you are attaching into what you are attaching it to. If that is not accessible, attach as best you can.

[@davidbell5553]

Nails can bend but screws are hardened and will snap. Use nails.

[@leopoldomendoza8355]

Gracias amigo.

[@TV-hp9ro]

What options are there if no bridging installed. Can you add later?

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

You can always add bridging later either cross or solid if you have access

[@JR-xi2bh]

So which is best

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

I prefer solid, no deflexion in it, easier to install

[@zachary3777]

The crossed bridging will be stiffer, because you are basically making a truss structure, where the force is inline with the grain direction. The solid blocking carries a shear force, but you can still consider it equivalent to the x shaped path for tension and compression, but misaligned to the grain direction.

[@avgjoe-cz7cb]

(True below, speak up.) BUT, do not, not do this. Install the bridging like he said, nail on top and do not nail the bottom yet. install your sublfoor and any walls during the build. Once the Dead load is established and before the Live load begins, THEN nail the bottoms of the Bridging. therefore a load on a single joist is spread out two joists on BOTH sides of the load. Think piano leg. So in effect, five joists are carrying the piano leg. Forget solid bridging unless it is over a carrying beam or girder. And use construction glue under the subfloor on the joist. Pay attention to his spacing regarding the run. F--k the Draftsman that forgets these important details. If you are a heavy person and hear squeaks coming from the floor years later, well, now you know...

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

You are correct about the load being applied before nailing the bottom. As far as using solid bridging it comes to two things, codes and preference. Always check local building codes. And yes always use liquid nail when laying subfloor.

[@MrMalzers]

Speak up

[@ony5447]

Hi. We have a 1960s house and we removed the first floor floorboards and saw that the cross bridging is barely touching the joists in some cases and is the cross bridges are not nailed to the joists. We have access only from the floor abone and not from level below. What can we do? Shold we try and screw them into the joists top and bottom however we can but just from the top (as we do not have access from below) Any advice?

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

@@ony5447 I would try to get top and bottom

[@ony5447]

@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 the house was built some time ago and should be settled ish. Are these crossings still necessary? Would they help?

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

@@ony5447 they would help. It would stabilize and help against any further issues.