Installing Dripless Shaft Seal The Boat Yard Way!

[@dalltm]

Great job!!! Practicing “boat yoga” big time!!!

[@UQRXD]

Wow that oven has an open pilot light.

[@sailinguntilvalhalla]

Yeah old school haha

[@shaunoakes6803]

Nice job ... looking forward to the next upgrade :)

[@grahamatsea3575]

Thanks for mentioning the PYI locking collar, mines got a hose clamp behind it but I'll order a collar.

[@Dadlife_Alaska]

Yeah definitely a nice upgrade to the hose clamp (which I've done before in the past) it does work but collar is a worth it upgrade in my book

[@tomcooper5564]

thanks that was very clear how to video . I have mine on the hard now doing a new shaft i think i will also do a dripless

[@sailinguntilvalhalla]

Oh I'm glad it was helpful hopefully it goes easy for you!

[@SoItGoesCAL34]

I was waiting to see where you hook up the water. Where does it come from?

[@sailinguntilvalhalla]

I ended up doing that later as I needed some fittings, I added a "T" to the wet exhaust hose from heat exchanger to the exhaust elbow

[@PacificSolo]

Good job. I just replaced my dripless seal. So your video caught my eye. While I agree it a good upgraded from stuffing box, be prepared for a potentially catastrophic event if your prop gets caught on something and suddenly stops. This happened me and my boat nearly sunk. The carbon ( actually ceramic) seal cracked by the shock and micro debris from the net that I caught, made it’s way up the shaft … it started to leak badly …. I have been advised to have the Allan key on the ready in the engine room to tighten the ring along with something like an inner tube to wrap around the damaged seal. Are you going to run a hose from the nipple to above water line?

[@Dadlife_Alaska]

Yeah that's a bad day for sure, we will have material in engine room in case of failure to slow water flow in an emergency situation. As far as the hose, I'll be hooking it into my raw water side of the cooling system next weekend just need to get some parts

[@marysalerno467]

I'll stick with packing...no chance of a catastrophic failure, and can be repacked with the boat in the boat in the water.

[@sailinguntilvalhalla]

Yeah to each there own, these dripless have proven themselves reliable and perfer not having a salty bildge. Salty water and heat likes to rust things

[@matthewsilva8225]

Looks good. I'm doing the same job now but I'm stressing over the interference fit of my coupler to shaft. I had a machine shop measure the ID of the coupler and it's .0008" larger than the shaft, 8 ten thousandths of and inch. Do you think I can reuse the coupler? Any thoughts on this? How did it work out this past season?

[@Jackanory222]

Use dish washing detergent to slide the rotor on with Don`t hit that coupler casting too hard ... in fact try not to hit it at all

[@Dadlife_Alaska]

Yeah I would have but this was a really tight fit so had to get creative, yeah you shouldn't if possible but sometimes stuff needs a little persuasion just gotta be careful with it.

[@MrSkyrider226]

nice i learn must thanks

[@hecra6521]

sorry, for a longtime trip is this a downgrad not a upgrade. the old little dripping one you can fix without costly help by your self. new gasketstrips in and greased and you can do this everywhere.

[@sailinguntilvalhalla]

Everyone has their own opinion, I get your point and have repacked others before completely aware how it works. If you like the old style then keep it nothing wrong with them, but these are any upgrade for most and are proven and do well. Working in a boatyard I've seen million dollar yachts with them never an issue, also keeping salt water out of the bildge keeps engine components from corroding faster and prefer not relying on a bildge pump every time I go out. What exactly do you think will happen that makes this a "downgrade"?

[@MrSkyrider226]

but wer are you bay thinks