Installing Rocker Arms | Mopar 5.9 Magnum Build #16

We're getting close to completion on this 5.9 Magnum Daily Driver build. In this installment I install the rocker arms and push rods. Not rocket science, but there are a couple things to watch out for.
Used in this video:
Ever-trusty Lubriplate 105: amzn.to/3aM1ZTD

[@Pointlesshandle48]

This is THE video I’ve been looking for. It seems like there’s a lot of mixed info out there. Some guys were turning the crank and tightening the rockers (or maybe adjusting the valves?) in order of intake and exhaust and it was unclear why. I have a 2001 ram with the 5.9 magnum and did the head gaskets, I’m trying to make sure that replacing the old rockers is as easy as it looks in this video.

[@IsaiahDiller]

This video was quite helpful and informative thank you

[@chicagorc3967]

i think im the only one to notice you painted where coolant flows in the waterpump LOL I enjoyed the video very much but got a good laugh.

[@damnimcooltom1]

Whoa. Eleven people saw this before me. That's a new record.

[@brianwil89]

My question is do you have to rotate the crankshaft and go through the firing order or just tighten them all to 21ft/lbs without turning the engine?

[@lf-1942]

Finally info on the grooves inside the rocker arms and pivot points. Still have questions on the rocker arms grooves. For my Dodge Magnum 318 there are 8 with grooves that go from wide to narrow(from top) and 8 that go from narrow to wide(from top) as you described in this video. Does this mean some are for the intake valves and some for the exhaust valves??? If it didn't matter then wouldn't the rocker arms all have the same groove directions/orientation, correct? If you have an answer that would be great. I took my head's to a machine shop with rockers still installed and got them all back in a bag. (My first engine overhaul...and not my 1st mistake). This is why I am unsure about groove orientations. And as far and rocker arms grooves to pivot point grooves...they should match, correct? I asked around..some people said it didn't matter, some said they should cross(not match), and some said match grooves. Still no one said which rocker arms(2 different groove orientations) goes with which valve or does it matter. Sorry for the long weekend text, but I haven't found an answer to the grooves yet. Thanks.

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

I'd have to look at a new rocker arm (meaning I could be totally wrong here), but I suspect the grooves are originally only on the pivot and the ones that end up on the rocker are witness marks that wear in from the pivot. That means that in whatever random orientation they were installed at the factory is how the grooves end up.

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

To add to that, the reason it's important to have them align when re-assembling is that the pivot has the oil groove and the rocker actually has a ridge. If you install them where they cross instead of being aligned, you'll tighten down onto that ridge. Since it's thin, it will wear down pretty fast when running and the rockers would loosen. Is it enough to be a problem? I don't really know. But with the time and cost of building the engine, I'd rather not take a chance.

[@lf-1942]

@@YoshimoshiGarage I look forward to your research. I just can't see how you have 8 rocker arms with grooves one way and 8 the other way. It just seems like one orientation goes with intake valves and the other orientation goes with exhaust valves, 8 of each. It doesn't seem random. I can't compare to how it came from the factory due to one of my many mistakes. Is there any factory document or repair manual that states anything about grove orientation? I have found nothing so far. Of the videos I have watched and researched for, yours is the only one that talks about these groves. I know haven't seen them all but I keep looking. Thanks for this video and your reply.

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

@@lf-1942 I don't have 8 of each. On this set of heads I think I had like 12 of one way and 4 the other. It definitely wasn't 8 and 8. the first 4 I pulled (so 2 exhaust and 2 intake) were all the same way.

[@lf-1942]

@@YoshimoshiGarage Well that helps. I must have been "lucky" to get exactly 8 of each. I did notice that some replacement rocker arms have No grooves(from pictures). The replacement pivot pieces retained the grooves. This implies the grooves in the rocker arms are not necessary. What do you think about that? Thanks again for your response.

[@cleven269]

You using a 3/8 torque wrench ?

[@ShortArmStrongArm]

I painted my 5.9 Hemi orange. Added 25 horsepower.

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

At least!

[@legallimitoutdoors9917]

Very nice Video again..👍 so I got The same rocker assembly on my 5.9l magnum after I take them apart and clean them and reassemble them and take and torque them down to 21 foot pounds do I have to do any other adjustments on the lifters afterwards? Thank you for all your videos im learning a lot from your show thanks again.

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

Nope, just torque them down and you're ready to run.

[@sith4mmer558]

You didn’t mention that the pivots are drilled off center. It matters where you put them left or right. If you have them reversed, it kicks the rod at a slight angle. Just another tip :)

[@legallimitoutdoors9917]

Hey brother. Nice tip so I'm putting mine together so what are You talking about so I don't throw a push rod or just make Shure the rocker gets back were it came from. Thanks bro 👍

[@sith4mmer558]

@@legallimitoutdoors9917 you’ll definitely know the difference if it’s off

[@1mad_bug]

How do you remove the valve springs ? Does the piston have to be at tdc ?

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

I always pull the head and use a valve spring compressor

[@JO3BID3N-is-a-P3D0]

nice video

[@legallimitoutdoors9917]

Hey what's the foot lb torque for the dog bone plate holder and should I use blue Loctite on the three bolts? Thanks for the great show again

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

Just tight. I didn't use a toque wrench. It doesn't need loctite.

[@kevinclancy.]

great video thanks. I read in my chilton manual that there is a position on the harmonic balancer to rotate the engine to for torquing the rocker arm bolts. I guess does that really matter? on yours you didn't mention that. i'm assuming its a rotational position to try and minimize the number of valves completely open and thats why they say that?

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

That's exactly it, they are trying to have the valves closed when you tighten the hold down. Thing is, if it's on a lobe, the valve will open (or the lifter core will compress since it's not oiled) to relieve pressure. If threads aren't clean, there's a possibility that maybe you'd reach max torque but not actually be at torque because of that resistance. I've never seen that happen, but it could, in theory. After you get them all on, rotate the engine a bit, like 1/3 or whatever and just re-check. I suspect they'll all be fine

[@kevinclancy.]

@@YoshimoshiGarage thank you

[@MrDave4464]

Hello and great video's! The question I have is I currently have a Ram 1500 with the 5.9L 360 and going to install a Extreme Energy comp cam (Mild practically stock) Part # 20-745-9 480 lift Duration 212/218 and comp cam spring upgrade part# 901-16 that's recommended with that cam, and Sealed Power Hydraulic Roller lifters part# HT2269, so with all that being said would I still torque the rockers at 21ft Lbs.?

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

Yes, same torque on the rockers

[@MrDave4464]

@@YoshimoshiGarage Got one more question for you, what would you suggest for pushrods I think they need to be hardened because of the guides, and 5/16" diameter not exactly sure on the length or the best place to buy them, thanks for your response and info appreciate it.

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

@@MrDave4464 For that I'd just use stock push rods to match the heads (so LA or Magnum to match whatever you're running)

[@jts9120]

What is the preload on those roller lifters? I'm building a 410 magnum

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

This is a factory cam with all factory non-adjustable rockers and push rods, so the preload is "bolt it down and go." If you're adding adjustable valve train, I think it's about 0.080"

[@jts9120]

@@YoshimoshiGarage Thank you kindly

[@mattp3711]

You just torque them right down? I've read on a few forums something about rotating the motor to top dead center and watching the rockers until they lift then just start going back down then torquing them down.

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

Nah, just torque them down. You'll have no problems.

[@MrEdsster]

Some engines do require you to rotate them, my brother just put heads on his ford and he crushed valves and had to replace the heads... You live and you learn. fortunately the 5.9 doesn't require turning over the engine to tds. If i'm incorrect im sure I will be corrected...

[@alexwagoner285]

I've been told by two different people to set valve lash, then torque down the rocker arm at TDC on the compression stroke. Is this correct?

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

These are hydraulic rollers, there is no lash to set. The hydraulic part of the lifter eliminates the lash, typically by adding pre-load. You can torque them with the valve closed but, again, being hydraulic, it doesn't make much difference. If you're working on something with adjustable rockers (say a Slant 6) then yes, you'd want to set the lash and torque when the valve is closed and piston at TDC.

[@alexwagoner285]

I used your method here, and now I have a lifter tick. Is it possible that a lifter collapsed on startup or isn't pumping up like it should?

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

@@alexwagoner285 THey are hydraulic roller, so it's certainly possible it's not filling with oil.

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

@@alexwagoner285 it's possible, but I've never seen a hydraulic lifter just fail (usually it's a lobe that goes). Being hydraulic, there's really not much to them. They simply fill and take up any play in rocker and pushrod geometry for you eliminating any need for lash adjustment. Did you install them all with the oil hole up?

[@couprojetosespeciais8565]

21 libras torch. ????

[@DaveW_googleplus]

When do you adjust the lifter gap?

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

These are factory hydraulic rollers, there is no gap to adjust.

[@2648498]

So you can’t adjust the valves like a small block Chevy? What the hell do people do when you surface the heads?

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

We get shorter pushrods if it's enough that the hydraulic lifters can accommodate it.

[@2648498]

@@YoshimoshiGarage I’m getting ready to rebuild my 360. I think I’m going to convert it to stud mounted rockers like a small block Chevy.

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

That would be a pretty expensive conversion. Rocker shafts worked on those motors for decades.

[@2648498]

@@YoshimoshiGarage The kit cost about 100 bucks. It takes Less than a hour to do. Very simple. Direct Bolt on. No machining required. It’s just a stud with a couple jam nuts

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

That seems very reasonable. Let us know how it works out!

[@danielallaire8984]

Hello, I did not know about torquing rocker arm bolts or pivot journals going a certain way. I overtorqued my rocker arm bolt so much i broke it. Do you think i could of broken the lifter doing that? Now have a knocking noise. Do you think putting the oil journal the wrong way can make the knocking too and being over torqued cause knocking noise? Could i have messed up a valve compressing it? Really dont want to change a lifter or valve. Thanks for you info. Either way ill be able to fix it now having seen your video

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

It shouldn't have damaged the lifter or valve. They wouldn't have gone any further down. The pivot would like just wear out prematurely, but not real fast - we're probably talking hundreds of miles or more. I don't think it's the cause of the knock.

[@danielallaire8984]

@@YoshimoshiGarage Knocking noise was a loose rocker arm. I'm guessing overtorquing the rocker arm bolt made it come loose; either that or i forgot to torque the bolt lol i had the pivot arm facing the right way luckily. The videos you're making on these engines are great. Really appreciate having them.

[@damnimcooltom1]

What engine are you working on? On a Mopar small block after 1967, it wouldn't damage the lifter. If it's a Chevy small block, or others that have "adjustable" rockers with hydraulic lifters, there's a chance it could damage the lifter.

[@danielallaire8984]

@@damnimcooltom1 2002 small block Mopar 360. You were both right. Did not do any damage. Thanks

[@danielallaire8984]

It's cool the valves dont need adjustment.

[@Adam-vb7xl]

I read the book and watched this video, as well as many others. I torqued the rockers down to 21lbs and the engine had no compression what so ever. I have been adjusting the valves like many other videos said to, I still can’t get the bolts to stop loosening up after I fire it up. I have not yet seen a video where they show how to adjust the valves where they actually fired up the engine and it worked. I’ve been working on my 1995 Dodge Ram with the 5.9 Magnum all week, and still cannot get the valve adjusted correctly. I’m gonna have to pay a certified mechanic to try and get them adjusted. If he can’t I’m gonna haul it off to the scrap yard and never drive a Dodge again.

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

You're certain you have the right push rods?