Installing Seacock Part 4, Final install

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This is part 4 of a 4 part series on replacing the thru hulls on a Lagoon 38 catamaran.
In Part 4 of the seacock replacement series I show the final installation of the seacock and fittings. In Part 1 I removed the old thru hulls. In part 2 I glassed in some holes left from over from thru hulls that are no longer needed, In Part 3 of the seacock replacement series I show what I did to prepare to install all the new parts including making fiberglass backing plates. I hope someone can take something useful from these. If it helps please hit "like" and please subscribe to see my upcoming videos. Be sure to check out my other sites as well
projectboatzen.com
sailvayu.com
livingaboardzen.com
Thanks
Capt. Wayne

[@TOMVUTHEPIMP]

5200 has no business in seacocks. Its for permanent bonding like deck to hull joints.

[@johnlcallaway]

Thank you for this 4 part series. Just bought a used boat and need to replace a couple of the seacocks, I really like your method and appreciate your sharing it.

[@Boatingzen]

Thanks glad you liked it and hope it helps.

[@wfpittuw]

Wayne, thanks for the professionally done videos. They demystify many of the tasks associated with boat maintenance!

[@Boatingzen]

Glad they were helpful

[@wfpittuw]

what are your thoughts about putting in thru hulls with the bolts going through the hull (countersunk), and then through the backing plate. That seems like the most secure way to do it, but more work and room for error for the DIYer.

[@MisterBollux]

Thank you so much for posting these.

[@Boatingzen]

Joey Earl Glad you enjoyed them and thanks for taking the time to let me know, it helps keep me motivated to do more.

[@GD-ns8wf]

Thank you. Great information and videos

[@arone0424]

Great videos Wayne keep them coming

[@Boatingzen]

Thanks I am trying but takes time and effort. Please consider supporting the effort. Hope to have some more out soon. Thanks for the positive feedback.

[@allthingsconsdrble]

Learned a lot. Thx

[@victorsalcedo4073]

Great videos Wayne, even for a non-native English speaker like me...

[@Boatingzen]

Glad it was helpful

[@tedsouers3383]

Great videos! thanks!

[@Boatingzen]

Thanks glad you liked them

[@Ceviche956]

Great great video. Thanks

[@Boatingzen]

You are welcome thanks for the feedback

[@marknorris3769]

5:20 don't over tighten , then gets it very tight

[@patrickconcannon7550]

nice job! thanks

[@Boatingzen]

Thank you too!

[@agusus]

Great instructional series! Cutting the fiberglass backing plates was especially well done. I'm guessing you don't have a cored hull? Would be interesting to see how much longer it takes when you have to dremel out some core and fill with epoxy. Also I'm not sure if you have to redrill the thruhull holes then.

[@Boatingzen]

Patrick Davin Yes cored hull will take longer and do require special attention. I would bevel the edges and glass over the core edge and then re-drill the holes like you say. There never is only one way to do something every boat is a bit different and requires a different approach. Thanks for the comments and positive feedback.

[@300e24v]

Great video Wayne, can I just add a snippet about the Plexus you used, the inside skin of the boat will have to be unpainted and scrupulously clean for it to be a strong joint, any paint or even gelcoat will seriously weaken the bond as you then have a weak paint or gelcoat to fiberglass joint to rely on. (I know yours was bare fiberglass it was just a note to others if theirs is coated) I also note you were doing it on what appears to be a solid hull, a cored hull will need additional checks and work to achieve a satisfactory, long lasting outcome.

[@Boatingzen]

To be honest methacrylate adhesive has some aggressive chemicals that will cut thru most dirt and films making it very good for repair work. You are right, paint is to be removed and it is always good to roughen and clean any bonding surface. For cored hulls, you would want to taper the core back at any penetrations. Thanks for the comments and feedback

[@300e24v]

Yes it is amazing what methacrylate will stick to, I was thinking most folk won't be using it because of the cost, if using 5200 or similar cleanliness is crucial... Great vids though, keep them coming...

[@richardryerson]

Love these videos! I have one question, why use adhesive to put the backing plate on the hull? Would thickened resin be a good choice?

[@hcaldwell4085]

Hi Capt Wayne. Great video and thanks for posting! My boat had terrible looking backing plates and the seacocks frankly scare me, so I'm changing them all out (1975 Westsail 28). Everything I know about seacocks and thru hulls, I learned from youtube and trial by fire. Here's my question: Do I need to gel coat the outside hull if I sanded some of it or can I 5200 that when I'm installing the new thru hull? I sanded because there are lots of layers of bottom paint and I didn't think it would be so great to try to bond the through hull over top of all that paint.

[@Boatingzen]

You were right to sand it. No worries if it is covered by the thru hull that will protect the fiberglass just as the gel coat does.

[@donolsen4577]

Can starboard be used for backing plate?

[@snakeplisken4278]

Thanks very informative. One thing I wonder about is which ones are better Groco or Perkins? Mine are Perkins and seem ok still. A bit green on the outside but no leaks. Should one use that white plumbers tape for the elbow fitting or nothing needed?

[@Boatingzen]

I think you mean Perko not Perkins but I get what you mean. Both are good products but if push can to shove I might lean to Groco. I do not like tefflon tap and will use silicone or other sealant i have handy.

[@jh2521]

Very instructional videos. I like the idea of using g10 as a mounting plate for the seacock. I have a question though, in my case I want to install a thru hull scoop (strainer), how can I screw it all the way into the seacock? Is here a tool for that type of thru hulls? Thanks

[@Boatingzen]

+Javier Hoyos Those thru hulls with the strainers will not work with a proper flanged seacock. You would have to use the type of strainer that goes on separate over the thru hull. The type you are talking about are designed for just a ball valve on the thru hull and not what I recommend. Hope that helps and thanks for watching and commenting.

[@jh2521]

Thanks for your reply Wayne, I will buy a regular bronze thru hull and then install a strainer over it. A lot of good information in your channel. Thanks again.

[@njlarry100]

Great video. How did you trim the mushroom thru hull to length keep it square and save the threads?

[@Boatingzen]

I just cut it off with a cut off wheel and then used a small grinder to bevel the cut and clean up the threads. I think this is shown in part 2 on preping. Not hard to do at all but it pays to dry fit before getting everything all gooped up. Thanks for watching and comments.

[@milliegonzalez5661]

Wayne, great video. However I need your advise about backing plates. I have several seacocks to do but all of thru hull are flush mount so on the inside of the hull, there is a raised area accommodating the flush mount thru fitting so the inside is not flat. How do I make a backing plate to go on top of this. Do I have two, one with a large open to go outside the hump and then another to go on top of that? Also, How do I know that I will be square so that the flush thru hull will fit inside the inset of the hull and not sitting off to the side leaving a gap? Thanks Wayne for your help!

[@MrRicosueave]

He said nice and snug and then applied all body weight into the crescent wrench lmao

[@Boatingzen]

Not sure what you are referring to but I never put full body weight on a crescent wrench lol

[@mitchellrdavis3]

Watched this 4 part series several times, but made my backing plates using this procedure (www.boatinghowto.com/content/how-make-your-own-backing-blocks-seacocks-275/). Your information was a GREAT help! I bought flange adapters for the 4 seacocks and did the install this past weekend. I am allowing the 5200 to cure before I put the seacocks onto the adapters and reattach the hoses. I believe that I did a good job, but praying it all works out. I am new to boating and just bought mine at the end of last season. The marina owner suggested that I not do the work, but I believe that with the help of your series, other research, and a lot of praying that it went well! Thanks again! The biggest difference in my situation was that my thru-hulls have the strainers attached and they also screw through the hull. I believe I improvised well. I guess we will find out in a couple of weeks when she goes into the water!

[@Boatingzen]

Mitchell Davis Glad this was helpful. I looked at the link you provided and my only thought is those blocks would be very resin rich and not as strong but should work ok for this application. I am sure your project will be fine and this is how we learn by getting out there and doing things. Trust me I had to make a lot of mistakes before I started getting things just right.

[@mitchellrdavis3]

Wayne Canning These are the type of strainers that I am working with. As you can see, they have screws that go through the hull. I couldn't find anyone that addressed this issue so I put on my analytic cap and improvised as best I could. I will let you know in a few weeks how it is holding up after I get it in the water. Thanks again for your great video!

[@mitchellrdavis3]

Wayne Canning www.ebay.com/itm/like/231348488084?lpid=82&chn=ps

[@jh2521]

Hi Wayne, I finally ready to install the high speed intake thru hull, what brand is that adhesive that you used to glue the g10 plate (that will support the seacock) to the hull? Do you think 3m 5200 would work? I think I like your option better. Thanks.

[@Boatingzen]

+Javier Hoyos I used Plexus which is a bit hard to get and a bit pricey. The only place I know to get it on a consumer level is Jamestown distributer. 5200 would work but I think I would use WEST Proset epoxy. That is a bit easier to get and not as expensive. Good luck with it and thanks for asking as others are likely curious as well.

[@victorsalcedo4073]

Wayne, found some Plexus products, could you please share which is the proper one? MA300? MA310? Thanks ¡

[@captainscottlum2371]

it looks like you cut the through hull threads shorter, if so what did you use, a hacksaw?

[@Boatingzen]

That would work or a multi tool with a metal blade. If possible put the nut on below the cut so that it will "chase" the treads when removed. Also file a bevel on the cut to aid in threading the nut or valve on. Good luck

[@robertfindlay2465]

Can you reduce the number of seacocks, by using a manifold to share the supply?

[@Boatingzen]

You can and many boats do but it is not without its problems as well. After having serviced many boats with sea chests or manifolds I do not really see an advantage. You still have hoses and valves and this is where most failures occur not in the thru hull itself. Thanks for the comments

[@davidedwards2764]

what stops the machine bolts from turning when you tighten the nut down on the seacock?

[@Boatingzen]

+David Edwards The epoxy fills the slot and holds them in place. Thanks for the comment.

[@brianohara5696]

Inside pipe wrench you can get anywhere, don’t buy it from a marine store

[@oday3514]

Great series of videos! Thank you. You may also want to see this; www.pbase.com/mainecruising/seacock_primer this; www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls And this; www.pbase.com/mainecruising/backing_blocks

[@njlarry100]

Fantastic, well thought out instruction. Would marine plywood and Gflex also work? Does anything other than the epoxy bond keep the machine screws from turning? Thanks for the whole series.

[@Boatingzen]

NJ Doug I do not like to use plywood or wood. If the hull is thicker than 3/8" i do not use backing plates at all, I counter sink the bolts from outside and fill over the heads so they are not exposed to the water. I used the plates on this hull as it was too thin for that. Glad you liked the series more will come.