Installing Tortoise Switch Machines in the Peninsula. HO Scale 12x20 Layout Part 30

[@MRR_Shadowolf]

Great video, took notes! I have 32 Tortoises that must be installed before use on my DCC system. I'm still struggling with all the required accessories etc needed as want bi-color leds. Seen lots of videos on Digitrax and NCE controller applications. I'm using ESU and it *should* be easier but I'm not smart enough to know what I don't know yet... I'm thinking if there is a way to temporarily use Caboose Industry ground throws until figure it all out but don't want to damage the tortoise machines. I have wiring books, watched YT videos but still pretty much clueless. Of all the facets of a MRR wiring is by far my least favorite. I can handle the bus, feeders, etc. Anything more complicated or perceived to be so just freezes up my brain cells LOL Again, great video, learned some things, some still are beyond my skillset.

[@SPSteve]

Thanks! Don't be intimidated by the Tortoise machines. What I would suggest is set up a test on your bench and get things worked out before you install the Tortoise machine in the layout. I use the DS64 and DS74 to control the machines but you don't need that. All you need is a 9VDC power supply and a DPDT switch. Look at the instruction sheet that comes with the Tortoise machine. The first example would be the easiest to do. All the switch does is change the polarity of the voltage and so the switch will move back and forth. In my opinion, the Acculite Snap edge connectors are an absolute must-have. The connectors I have now have screw terminals and make connection super simple.

[@chrisdalyai8393]

Steve, thank you for taking your time to share your work. I would like to know a little about the power supply you're using to power your switch machines. Where did you get it from and what is the output or size? Also, what gage wire are your using?

[@SPSteve]

Chris, I use 20 gauge wire for everything except the bus wire which is 12 gauge. I think the 12V output is 2 amps and the 5V output is 5 amps. I got the power supplies from Ebay www.ebay.com/itm/110969773777

[@randysrockandrollrailroad8207]

😊

[@SPSteve]

Moving forward a bit at a time. :)

[@dkaustin98]

Steve, where did you source the 30 thousandths wire from? I like that tip on feeding the throw wire DOWN through the turnout rather than trying to come up from underneath.

[@SPSteve]

DK, I got the music wire at my local Ace Hardware store. But any hobby shop that has RC airplanes will have a selection of music wire. Here's an Amazon link if you'd rather go that route: www.amazon.com/Music-Wire-032-Diameter-Long/dp/B002WXGIHC/ref=sr_1_2?crid=39US602S2EYRJ&keywords=music+wire&qid=1681088348&sprefix=music+wire%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-2

[@SPSteve]

Oh, and yes, feeding from the top is much easier! I give myself enough extra length to make it easy to maneuver the Tortoise to give me the best angle for connecting the wire.

[@CobraChamp]

I use Peco turnouts with positive controls. Would you recommend removing the positive control or keeping it with Tortoise switch machines???

[@SPSteve]

I would remove the positive controls before installing the Tortoise machines. Another thing to consider with the Tortoise is the wire size for throwing the turnout. The Tortoise comes with .025 music wire. That wire is ok if you have your track mounted directly on plywood but if you have foam on top of the plywood where the Tortoise is 1-2 inches below the track you will want to use heavier music wire .032-.035. Another thing, Circuitron recommends a 1/4" hole beneath the turnout throw. I would recommend drilling a 1/2" hole.