Instrument Cluster Tour: What Every Light Does - Jeep Cherokee ['97-'01 XJ]

The information presented here will only apply to 1997-2001 Jeep Cherokees with the 4.0L.
GAUGES:
-Tachometer: Measures engine speed.
Normal Idle: 750 RPM warm, slightly higher when cold
Redline: 5,200 RPM
-Speedometer: Measures vehicle speed
-Voltmeter: Measures current voltage
Normal: 12v when off, 13.6v while running.
-Fuel Gauge: Available Fuel (%)
Normal: 2.5 Gallons to 20.2 Gallons
-Oil Pressure: Engine oil pressure (PSI)
Normal: 20 PSI at warm idle, 30-60 PSI while driving
Lowest acceptable oil pressure is 13 PSI.
-Temperature gauge: Engine coolant temp (Degrees F)
Normal: 200-210 while running. May get hotter on warm days and with hard use.
LIGHTS:
-“Low Washer” means you need more windshield washer fluid
-Sentry Key Immobilizer means the incorrect key was used to start the vehicle (1998-2001 only)
-”Cruise” means the Cruise control system is active (Cruise equipped models only)
-Turn Signals mean the turn signals or hazards are active
-High Beam Indicator means the brights are on
-Seat Belt Reminder reminds you to wear a seatbelt
-”Part Time” means part time 4wd is engaged (4wd only)
-”Full Time” means full time 4wd is engaged (Selec-trac only)
-Upshift Indicator tells you when to shift into the next gear (Manual only)
-Low Fuel means you have about 5 seconds to get gas or you’re dead
-Hatch Indicator means the rear liftgate is open (1998-2001 only)
-”Brake” means the parking brake is engaged, OR the braking system is compromised
-”ABS” means the ABS system is active, OR the ABS system is compromised (ABS models only)
-”Check Engine” means the computer has detected a fault in the OBD-II system.
-”Check Gauges” means one or more of the gauges is reading abnormal levels
-”Airbag” means the airbag system is compromised
I mentioned a Rear Main Seal replacement tutorial: • Jeep Cherokee - Rear M...

[@Firebird-ru7je]

I enjoy no gauges, a random flashing upshift light, and a hard start when warm, gotta love an xj😂

[@davidtwa6265]

I'm not sure why I'm watching this but I love the dig at the "peasant chevy guys" 😂😂 but I'm glad that I did watch this I actually learned a couple things

[@WAEMIDIV]

One of my friends has a Cobalt that refuses to die for absolutely no reason. Sucker has 265,000 miles and I'm trying to get mine to a higher mileage just to spite him lol

[@davidtwa6265]

I used to have a 2006 chevy cobalt ss 2dr with the super charger and it was more like a race to kill the pos😂😂 it's the only chevy I've ever owned... chevy not even once man

[@lavapix]

Had to laugh at the burning Cherokee. My 1990 did so from a blown injector. I saved the melted intake manifold along with a few other melted aluminum parts. The license plates too.

[@RavenRedwood]

Your channel is excellent. Many thanks for your work on these videos

[@E.force89]

Great video. Thanks for putting it together

[@scubasmith]

Great video

[@zhaoxinnio3000]

Thank you very much and it is very informative 🎉

[@Jeepster84]

Very informative Thank you

[@sirwaffle2492]

I've done 120 in my 2 wheel drive xj it was scary as hell

[@Deadbuck73]

My XJ was up over 80 and I was amazed. I wouldn’t recommend it.

[@40Spec]

Great video. I have a November 1998 production sold for the 1999 model year XJ and it does not have a chip in the key. Also I notice you said something about the sensor in the gas tank. The I thought fuel pump was outside the tank? Did they put some sort of sensors in the tank apart from the pump?

[@WAEMIDIV]

The fuel pump (and its assembly) are entirely inside the gas tank on all years of the Cherokee, you might be thinking of the fuel Filter, which was mounted outside the tank on the 84-96 models but is also inside the tank as part of the fuel pump on the 97-01 years. The sensor I refer to is (probably) the fuel level sensor, it's a small metal arm with a float on the end that always floats on the surface of wherever the gas level is. As the fuel drains, the float goes down with the fuel level, and moves that small metal arm across a sensor board which changes the resistance of the voltage running through it, which changes the displayed amount of fuel you have left on the dashboard gauge.

[@40Spec]

@@WAEMIDIV yep it’s the fuel filter. That’s what I was thinking of! Thanks for the response!

[@stevenevert]

This is clutch thank you

[@Fort_Worth_Talaria]

Pretty cool 👍

[@neighborsgoat]

Excellent video, thanks! My 4wd yellow lights do not light up when I am in 4wd mode; so I ran the self test you presented at the end; they do not light up, but so it happens in your clip as well. Therefore still not sure if the lights are damaged, or the 4wd switch on the transfer case :(

[@WAEMIDIV]

The 4wd lights do not light up during the self test whether they're working or not. I'd put money on it being the 4wd switch on the transfer case its a really common part to fail, literally 5 of the 7 XJs I've had that switch was out.

[@neighborsgoat]

@@WAEMIDIV Thanks for the quick reply; will do that!

[@RM-rj5ok]

Awesome....Thank you

[@TheArcticFoxxo]

4:12 would anywhere above 50 be good? On some occasions mine will bump up from 40 to the mid to high 50s

[@WAEMIDIV]

Oil pressure is normally much higher when the engine is cold, as the oil is much thicker when cold and thus easier to build pressure with. I've seen my oil pressure go up to 80 some winters, but only briefly - when the RPMs go down or the engine warms up, it'll settle into the normal range. 50 is perfect, that's a sign of a well maintained engine that was taken care of through its life. The only time you need to be concerned about high oil pressure is if it stays there for a long time, because then you'll blow a seal somewhere.

[@TheArcticFoxxo]

​@@WAEMIDIV Ah, ok. That's understandable, given I usually get close to -30 anywhere past October (god help me) Well maintained..? I mean... It's coming close to 320k miles and so far I'm terrified of touching it.

[@davidtwa6265]

The check engine light😂😂😂

[@owencondo7934]

So can anyone help me out with my situation I’m going through? I got a 2001 xj and all the gauges work and dash lights, but the check engine light, parking brake light, airbag, partime and full time light, hatch light and abs lights don’t work. Anyone have this issue before?

[@WAEMIDIV]

Because so many of them are out I l'd start by taking the cluster out and cleaning the connections on the back with dielectric grease

[@98khaled46]

Same issue, did it work for you?

[@sloganeeringgaming6363]

My volt gauge likes to occasionally go all the way to 19

[@pathetic_bot9476]

Mine just has a big fuel guage and a speedometer 😑