INSULATED 3D Printer Chamber CoreXY With Isolated Electronics

[@mikeisjustmike3603]

Another good safety feature is using a thermal fuse inline to the power to your heated bed. You can get those at various temps and if the temp goes above the rating the fuse opens and cuts power to your heated bed. Generally you mount it under the bed.

[@bolek2]

+1 This is the one that is speced for the Voron (115C or 125C): www.aliexpress.com/item/32885492280.html

[@paullancefield]

@@bolek2 Personally, I would go for 130C. Most PC requires 120C for the bed which IMO is a bit close to 125C. 130 is less likely to be tripped accidentally.

[@yvesinformel221]

@@paullancefield that is because of his particular case. Voron user mostly print ABS with bed temp at 100C

[@seanwood5443]

Didn't even notice your comment before I put my lol sorry

[@MrMartinSchou]

Mineral wool is what happens when a couple of engineers get drunk and someone starts off with the classical joke of "assume a spherical cow" and it ends up with "assume a volcanic sheep".

[@mikescncshop]

If the chamber is completely sealed, how does the moisture inside escape?

[@claws61821]

Exactly. Among other, mostly similar, issues.

[@KernsJW]

Well its because they patented it. It will take some time before the market demands it and manufacturers get it into their line up. I took a ikea cabinet, lined with drywall, seems to work well. Moved the Electronics to a separate side chamber. For the bed probe, make a magnetic removable one. I setup gcode to measure bed and pause the print, so I can remove it. It waits until chamber gets to temp then starts. Abs, pc, and nylon work well. I do have an outlet for a filtered fan assembly to exhaust the chamber, so I have a hard time keeping temps where I want.

[@BenEBrady]

You want a piezoelectric sensor like the Orion sensor. $35 and it uses the nozzle as the probe on the bed. You can buy it from Filastruder

[@quadse7en]

I made my enclosure out of that pink insulation foam and the aluminum tape. It tops out or stabilizes around 120deg F. The door is also made of foam with a thin acrylic window. The door pops into place by just using the rare earth magnets. No hinges to mess with... my electronics are currently inside but will be mounting them to the enclosure externally.

[@TheWuzyy]

for the bl-touch problem: after the heat-soak, just turn on the part cooling fan and open the door a few seconds before the z-homing. this cools down the bl-touch. you will reach a good chamber temperatur again after a few layers. or you can add a pause macro right after the z-homing. This works for my 65°C chamber printer with an original antclabs bl-touch.

[@lazarjovic9948]

I wonder if you could use something akin to a ceramic washer to keep the upright separated from the top panel, without weakening the structural strength that you get from that combination. I kinda doubt it, but that would decrease the thermal conductivity into the uprights

[@MichaelJHathaway]

I thought about the same thing. It wouldn't have to be ceramic, nylon or peek is often used for this purpose.

[@TroyMackay]

same - was thinking fibre washers or a square of the same material

[@mt.sinairefuge5360]

I am new to 3D printing but since I started a few weeks ago my ender 5 pro has been running non stop. Being a practical engineer I was asking myself the same questions. The store that sold me the printer sold me a bunch of ABS filament which i later learned I can not really use. So it was obvious to me that the chamber needs to be closed and insulated and the electronics and motors need to be isolated from the heat (duh). Glad to see someone address the same questions I had.

[@mt.sinairefuge5360]

I see these flexible enclosures for sale even from Creality like a big tent to put over your printer. I am thinking...what kind of lunacy is that.?

[@martylawson1638]

Some fiber/garolite washers and stainless steel screws at the connection between the frame and the gantry assembly will help a lot with heat-leakage through the frame. Titanium screws would be better but not really worth the $$.

[@joshua43214]

Why titanium? Stainless it worse than titanium at transmitting heat. for example a stainless heatbreak will perform better than a titanium one. Titanium is just stronger.

[@GRuizMedia]

We’ve been working on something like this on the Voron 3D printer group. It’s called the DOOM V2. You should check it out! Some people have had great results from putting fans and heatsinks under the bed since the capacity of the AC bed heater is way higher than needed. It bumps the chamber temps up by 10-20 degrees C depending on how well it’s done.

[@hartk5353]

DOOM!

[@mikeisjustmike3603]

Implementing heated chambers is still under patent to Stratasys. What they have done is tweek the patent over time so they can keep the competition out. It is why no company offers it "yet". However, you are going to see more individual parts coming out that let you put together the pieces you need. Btw, if you have ever seen one of those Stratasys machines they keep the air turbulent. That maintains an even temp throughout the chamber. Down side of that is that you need to worry about how all your printer parts (motors, electronics, bearings, etc.) are going to handle the higher chamber temp. So think about something that moves the air top to bottom and you will be in good shape.

[@doodle4532]

The heated chamber one expired in February. At least I thought it did.

[@luckeypolishing]

Well, patent doesn’t apply to China. And Amazon has the qidi Ifast 300x260x360 enclosed build volume, dual extruder 300c , instead of idex it has digital nozzle height adjusters , harden steel nozzles, 120c bed and an actual digital controlled heated chamber up to 100c! It gets hot after 30 mins and is capable of printing cfpeek /pekk with tweaking their all metal hotend you ask for . $2500s a steal. Going to insulate with that same foam from Lowe’s and see how hot and efficient I can get it, thus saving energy. The electronics aren’t effected , power supply/ have their own intake and exhaust, as a FFL gunsmith , I love this thing .

[@mochmaster45]

I would love to see something like this for the ender 3. Seen plenty of those Ikea lack enclosures but not sure how good they are

[@reasonsvoice8554]

Depends how well you build them 👍🏻

[@gentiligiuliano7882]

Cork is quite fire resistant and also insulating. It's more expansive than polystyrene but using some thick foil of cork near heating elements might prevent heat deformation/firing of polystyrene increasing in the same time insulation in that parts.

[@mpikas]

I just found your channel so I don't know how far this has gone, but with the big heated bed you don't really need another heating element unless you just want to heat things up faster. Instead a small fan circulating the air inside the chamber (possibly with a little tunnel picking up the air at the top of the chamber and depositing it at the bottom) would force everything to come very close to bed temp fairly quickly. A well built box out of that foam should keep the heat in well, but I'd likely run a second layer of foam before I tried another heating element. With your chamber shape I'd probably wire a microswitch into the circulating fan circuit that kills the fan if the door (that you're planning on adding) is opened, that way since heat rises you should be able to prevent a bunch of heat loss when opening the door.

[@lucabulfone937]

I did a box similar to yours on my Tronxy X5 SA 400Pro. I did just some tests but I measured over 60° C with heating bed only. In my project I have a bowden extruder setup so even this stepper is out of the hot zone. In my experience not having a perfect tight seal does not impact so much having holes for the GT2 belt to reach the steppers out of the box and even a Plexyglass front door.

[@aivkara]

@Luca Bulfone I also have an Tronxy X5SA 400 Pro. Would love to see some pics of your setup :)

[@graemefindlay2]

If it has a floor, a roof, doors and windows it is a house not a chamber no matter what size it is, also a fan assisted oven is a heated chamber ???? As you are using the heat from the 3d printer all you are doing is insulating it you could use old stripped fridges and freezer for the for this type of chamber with little modification.

[@a1hamer]

Nice thinking , also a small dish washer would do

[@byzantinelegionnaire9469]

Please just build from scratch with all your favorite parts, film that, and post it.

[@BeowulfNode]

Umm... that's what this video was, plus he's done an enclosure build video before too. If you think there was a bit missing that isn't obvious, then ask that question. See kzbin.info/www/bejne/bWrVZndvo6iEnK8 for an enclosure build video he's done before.

[@GRuizMedia]

Also, for the leveling probe, check out the annex engineering magprobe. They use a “toolchanger” type feature where it’s resting on one side of the printer and it picks it up with magnets. The magnets also act as the electrical connectors for the microswitch so it’s a pretty neat design.

[@llem346]

How about guide rail deformation due to thermal expansion?

[@spearview]

Amazing work as usual. May be you will bring the much change needed to have heated chambers as regular offering in 3d printers.

[@DamienRobertsonYYC]

I've been working on a similar build, but will be using liquid cooling (stepper motors are in the chamber, and will need to be cooled, so will do the same with the hot end). Now for the important part, for the hotend I'm bending a custom cut sheet of aluminum, and adding in a strain gauge to it. Once it is calibrated to the temperatures in the chamber, it should be accurate, reliable...

[@yvesinformel221]

If he wants to print PEKK, he will have to take care of the belts as well

[@berberger4814]

there is a probe from a britain company that is placed between the hotend and gantry, it basically senses when the nozzle touches the bed, maybe this helps you

[@BaldBeard_BlackShirt]

Peizo

[@Thee_Gamefanatic]

Piezo sensor is basically this concept. Another option is to have the hot end touch some metal potion of the bed and complete a circuit.

[@bearleemadeit4718]

@@Thee_Gamefanatic I currently have my delta printer set up so that when the nozzle touches the bed it lifts just slightly and opens the circuit. Works perfectly and is safer that closing a circuit.

[@jamessawyer6891]

Hvac tech here so I know a lot about heating and cooling. Still had thermal bridging right? Instead of using that insulation foam on the steel use thermal foam tape. Heat travels in air, air follows the least path of resistance. One or 2 sides being covered is irrelevant if 1 or 2 sides are exposed. Also heat rises and with the cover coming to a point it’s going to be hotter at the filament roll. By adding a low volt fan at that peak to circulate that heated air you will heat and dehumidify the enclosure more evenly. No hot spots. Great video btw.

[@EthanSanders]

What about coating the inside of the insulation with an intumescent paint? That could help with fire mitigation.

[@brianthomsen3237]

You could always make a small circular hole in the enclosure (and keep the cutout material as a plug) and then use digital heat gun set at your preferred temperature to heat the enclosure up a bit quicker?

[@tiagotiagot]

Does this work much better than just having two layers of glass/acrylic with a few CM of air in between?

[@secretagb]

Absolutely! Air gap is really only useful in this situation if it is evacuated..vacuum. Which you're not doing DIY at home without serious effort. The R value of just panels with an air gap is probably like 2 at best. This foam sheet with foil coating is at least R5. That's quite a difference.

[@luckeypolishing]

Using the same stuff , i used to build indoor grow rooms lol. But aren’t we now worried about overheating electronics ?

[@cbbbbbbbbbbbb]

Curious about drywall. That's something I was considering for building a heated enclosure. I haven't looked into the specs vs costs, but drywall does have to be fire rated. A single sheet is required between a home and an attached garage to prevent a fire from spreading from one to the other.

[@secretagb]

Drywall is kind of a terrible insulator. Standard 1/2" drywall has an R value around 0.5 while this foam he's using is upwards of R5.

[@cbbbbbbbbbbbb]

@@secretagb Oh, agreed. I meant have the drywall as an inner layer for the fire retardant, and then the foam layer.

[@secretagb]

@@cbbbbbbbbbbbb ahh ok gotcha. Right, I don't see why that wouldn't work other than cost problems.

[@BaldBeard_BlackShirt]

For camera monitoring, may I humbly suggest a door peephole camera that can pass though the insulation vs having the camera in the chamber

[@ruyvieira104]

How about a bowden-cable to deploy and retract the clicky-switch?

[@yvesinformel221]

Not sure you could print PEKK because you need a chamber btw 70-140C and I think your belt that are inside the chamber would be very unhappy

[@apinkeh]

i got to do the chamber before and found that the more you have height in the chamber, the hot air will go on top side of chamber most of the time. you better have air circulation inside with fan.

[@ModelLights]

Someone has or had patents on the box relatively recently is why. Not that they probably couldn't be broken since they shouldn't have gone through, but most manufacturers will avoid it just because it isn't worth doing for the tiny gain. May even be out by now, but there's a reason most places weren't doing it 10 years ago when a lot more people were using ABS.

[@CCCfeinman55]

It will be interesting to see how much the insulation effects print quality in higher temp plastics, where shrinkage has been a problem... Thank you for engaging in this level of experimentation!

[@epracer71]

I have built a custom Railcore with an 80C heated chamber. I used two heated fan units from the Funmat HT, which were purchased from the spare parts section on Visionminer’s website. Get the chamber of my far less insulated setup up to 80C in about 5 minutes.

[@bearleemadeit4718]

@TheeGamefanatic I currently have my delta printer set up so that when the nozzle touches the bed it pivots/lifts just slightly and opens the circuit. Works perfectly

[@martylawson1638]

Fan on the bottom center of the bed is a good option for extra chamber heat. Should accelerate heat up a ton. Especially if you thermostat control it in the Duet to run if the chamber temp is too low.

[@GigaVids]

hmmm just foam foam board taped together genius i almost bought one of those tents for 80$

[@VastCNC]

Are there other 3d printers on the market with the same isolated stepper/electronics setup?

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Not that I know of. If you find one please tell me.

[@ErikHenriksson_]

As bed probe check out the inductive switches (e.g. PL-08N2), they work fine up to 70C. For clicky switch, there is the Magprobe (from Annex Engineering) which is a magnet attachment with automatic loading/unloading.

[@siwiskate]

Not sure the PL-08N2 is a very good choice, I have melted one in my Voron before switching to an Omron probe

[@jackshett]

Maybe you got a lemon or I got a better than average one but... I put my ender 5 plus into a tent enclosure with a thermostat controlled heater at 48-50c for over a full week. I was printing ABS parts for my first voron. Never had an issue with z homing. Though... after cooling down a few days later my wham bam magnet adhesive failed :X

[@Hangs4Fun]

As info, the Qidi iFast ("Industrial Dual Extruder") has a heated enclosure (upto 60*C) and has dual extruders with one being setup for high temps (though it seems to be easy to mod it to 400 degrees for more advanced materials. I've been with you the whole time on the "why isn't anyone making this". It comes in at $2,500 but no assembly and has a ton of bells and whistles (obviously Qidi is a Chinese company, and this printer is based on those components, so if that concerns you as far as maintenance, consider swapping out the hotends and extruders with your favorite. and another thing is that it's based on the Qidi slicer, I haven't used it yet, but that could be another consideration).

[@Hangs4Fun]

Just saw your review of the Qidi i-Mate. I'm interested to hear what you think of the iFast. It looks like several of the concerns you mentioned on the i-Mate don't exist on the more expensive iFast model.

[@Hangs4Fun]

Since you don't want Chinese solutions, probably the cheapest solution you can get that is US made AND can achieve 110*C enclosure temperatures, is the MakerBot Method X Carbon Fiber edition (which is in the $4k range now, though has capabilities I have only seen in $20k plus more industrial machines). But you are right, once you get the proper enclosure temperatures, there is little to no deformation due to high shrinkage rate of the higher temp materials. It's been the holy grail ingredient to the high temp 3D printing conundrum. To reach 110*C enclosure temps like this method x does, you know better than most how many other things need to be done to pull that off. You couldn't just slap an insulated enclosure with a heater on a 3D printer and elevate the temps inside to 110*C without serious considerations. Especially for longer term use (every piece has to be well engineered to put up with those temps over time and not get out of plumb, level, square, function, etc.) Another interesting note about the Maker X product is that there is a metal extruder (called Labs Gen 2, under the Experimental Extruder line) that prints BASF Ultrafuse 316L | Stainless Steel).

[@Skott62]

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with. One question though. How would using something like plexi glass work out? Its see though. I imagine its not as insulating as what you plan on using though? Possibly harder to use too since you would have to use corner bracing and screws or glue to hold it all together?

[@Antrim3d]

Great job man. Nice insights and creativity! Keep it up!

[@calvingreen1215]

I've made a 12mm ply box lined with 25mm insulation and a 10mm acrylic door housing my ender 3 with the power supply and control interface mounted on the outside and can maintain at 60°c at the bottom of the chamber but I do have all other electronics inside the chamber with a bed at 100°c and I havent sealed the door yet

[@seanwood5443]

Add a thermal fuse to the ac bed inline

[@hayden9944]

14:30 - u could put silicone mat heaters on the metal at the top and you will heat the whole thing up faster as ur heating the thermal mass directly. If ur worried about run away heaters attach some thermal cut-off switches in line with your heaters. Possibly add a few low profile heatsinks and fan so it heats up the air too.

[@johnkim3858]

What are your thoughts on applying gold tape inside the chamber? I herd that gold is the best at deflecting heat.

[@joshua43214]

This is the sort of nonsense that spreads around the Maker community. The idea comes from the gold colored insulating sheets that spacecraft use. It is essentially transparent to heat, and will provide basically no thermal insulation. Those NASA sheets are aluminized plastics (Mylar and the like), the gold comes from polyimide (what Kapton tape is made from). The reflective surface is extremely good at reflecting infrared. Since there is no source of IR light in a printer, they would not be doing much. Also, gold tape (Kapton) is far less efficient at reflecting IR than plain aluminum duct tape.

[@mrnlce7939]

If that spool holder is made from PLA then don't forget to swap it out. Great video. Looking forward to a follow up. Keep it lit.

[@jack91522]

What are the real chances of a fire with the latest printers and firmware?

[@The.MrFish]

Have you considered getting a thermal fuse for your bed to provide some protection in the case the SSR’s fail closed? Great video.

[@baretlyon2601]

I insulated my ender 3 two years ago, the biggest issue i ran into was the stepper motors would overheat in the summer so l made the whole system liquid cooled. Its probably not done alot because difficulty plus cost.

[@SignalJones]

that's why top shelf heated chamber printers have the steppers outside the heated chamber

[@Audio_Simon]

I'm planning to run a Hemera in a heated chamber. Expect I'll need to water cool it.

[@baretlyon2601]

@@SignalJones if you buy really expensive steppers you can run them super hot. Some high end brands do that.

[@a1hamer]

Did you experiment with cooling liquid for cars on clycol basis. Ipresume they do a better job than plain water.

[@baretlyon2601]

@@a1hamer i just do pla, it was mainly for printing in the winter in my garage. Plus just using water i can buy cheaper pumps.

[@MisterkeTube]

Great video! No drama, factual, useful info. I think that for a long print your problem might become too much heat as hotend and bed are pushing energy in and you have nothing in place to let excess energy out. For the size of the original Sapphire, do you really need a bed probe? Unfortunately later Sapphire iterations seem to have moved the motors to the top again, i.e. within what would be the heated chamber :-(

[@jeremysargent5037]

Why would you put Styrofoam on the hot side? What about foil backed drywall inside with Styrofoam outside?

[@maxd4402]

Could you do a comparison between the creailty tent enclosure and your custom enclosure I was able to get my creailty enclosure up to 42c when printing PC MAX with my ender 5 plus and 38c with my ender 6

[@ZhuJo99]

With original heated bed? I have Ender 5 Plus and building much more serious chamber with mineral wool and steel panels to reduce the internal volume as much as possible. What is your room temp and how fast are you able to get to those temps with that bare tent “enclosure” (strong words in my opinion)? If it's go up to temp in 30 minutes I might get rid off the idea of separate chamber heater out of my head.

[@davethacker8410]

I know this goes back in a time a bit. I'll look and see if you've advanced it. I've only ever ran enclosed printers since 2015. I get into the 50-54c range, it takes a bit longer. My latest little farm of printers includes 2 Ender 6 printers with custom made tops. Easily enclosed. I run an external display temp monitor to track chamber temps. (I only print in ABS) I put the sensor at the level where the printing is occurring. Because there is little air movement inside, the temp zones stratify. I know it's 10c or greater cooler at the bottom of the chamber and I wouldn't be surprised if it's 10c hotter than the print zone at the top of your chamber where your thermocouple was placed. I was surprised your super job with the foam didn't get your more than the 60c where you are measuring. I had considered trying to get some weak fan blowing the bottom of the bed that was temp controlled in order to rob the bed heater of a little more heat. The ultimate cheap and safe solution is small halogen bulbs on a controller. (seen it done) At 50c ABS prints amazing and the real tell is I can print bed size objects without pealing problems. However, I've heard and want to test 70c as being the optimum. Not been there yet.

[@specialingu]

hope you change the insolation soon, in the uk we had the grenfell disaster, tower block with flamable cladding went up in flames and they couldnt put it out. one nifty/lazy feature i thought of, is have a stepper motor lift that top up. and maybe you could use heated beds as extra heaters on the side/top, and some fans to help circulate the heat. another good video and its what you do best, this type of thing, i think :)

[@Audio_Simon]

Nice job. What will you do to keep the hot end / heat break cool? When I ran my CR10 in a very hot room the extruder gears squashed the filament enough to jam the bowden.

[@martylawson1638]

My plan for my next printer is to use a water-cooled extruder/hot end and run the filament feed tube parallel to the water lines. This BMG inspired extruder is the best one I've seen so far.www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002266022904.html

[@Audio_Simon]

@@martylawson1638 Thanks! I didn't consider running filament next to water cooling.

[@trombonebone17456343]

Is the bltouch temp error a newer thing? I have had a genuine one in a 70C chamber for many months, and have had no issues.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Super interesting!!! I haven't tested a newer BLTouch sensor for this, and that company never does any press releases, so maybe they fixed/adjusted the issue.

[@readyorknot2344]

I tried building one about 4 years ago based on hevo. I got chamber temps up to 72c really pushing it. I used corrugated plastic acrylic and alubond combo for walls and a 350w ptc heater controlled by ssr and the duet. But it is tough to maintain. and heat creep was a significant issue above 60 so jams was a problem. I think polycarb is the limit with these home brews and not raw stuff the blends like pc-max but I get good prints from that with my old flashforge creator pro with a plastic bag over it and the doors closed. The high temp setup I haven't used in over a year its use case was limited I could the time and money anymore I will send out for prints in the future if I need that Im using resin printers a lot now for my model train hobby.

[@jafinch78]

Awesome! Thinking aerogel material... I think in the fiber form or whatever the rolls are seem like the thinnest for the thinner requirements. Not cheap... though seems like a high dollar option. I so need to move forward with the MPSM V2 Colossal build now I have a second unit and most the parts other than the 3D printed (I think at least, still need to test 2nd unit). Thanks for sharing!

[@bot42]

It's $36 at my local "lumber" store crossing my fingers that mine comes with the free plywood!

[@artiem5262]

heating the enclosure? have a spare bed with heater and thermistor sitting around? You should! stand the bed vertically from a wall, an inch or so away. force air around the bed. If you have an old controller+display, hey, set up another heated bed, only this one heating the chamber. the old controller will give you PID control of bed temp, and allow you to control fans as well.

[@floriank6990]

My thoughts exactly. First thing i bought when thinking of printing ABS was Insulation Sheets. Works fine so far but I'm thinking of how to do a proper job about it. Anyone want to exchange thoughts about that or already has something like a discord group talking about it?

[@AlexSuslov]

May be add light and camera on top?

[@ml1186]

When are you going to build a voron? :-D

[@TechdoLiberal]

Now add a camera to the octoprint pi (or whatever solution you're using), so that you can just look at the stream, instead of messing with the enclosure? Ideally you'd just need to check if it's printing well right? So, grab a usb webcam, or even a ip cam cheap from ebay, and connect to it. most cameras even have IR leds to allow you to see in the dark :) And of course, get the electronics outside of the chamber, otherwise you're also increasing the temps of the mosfets and board. Very interesting that the bl touch stops working at 50 degrees, but have you tried any of the chinese know-offs? I got one and upwards of 40 degrees it works fine. Haven't pushed it upwards yet, but maybe check out the new stuff. Some of the materials could have been replaced and they could be more resistant nowdays. great video!!

[@dwp6x9e42]

Keep up the good work. Consider adding some Peltier devices to keep the things that should stay cold in the box cold and provided additional heating. When you add fans set up a low speed vortex around the chamber. I would prefer a printer with double pain glass that would allow the sides to be opened for easy access, but the price may not be worth it.

[@ralphlongo1975]

I seriously doubt you'll see this today but since I'm building a foam enclosure due to you having some luck with it, I'll ask (the foam is shockingly strong.) To door, or not to door? I'm leaning towards no door, but I also recognize that's because having it completely sealed off is already difficult in my situation so why make another hassle when I feel like a window gives me everything I would actually need. I do also recognize how much more convenient a door would make things, so I'm really torn.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

I vote no door. Lifting the chamber off like a lid allows you to access the print from all sides. Also No door means a better seal on you chamber. It will work better to hold the heat in. Also less of a hassle to construct. The hinges and the door make it a lot more complicated than making 5 sided box.

[@ralphlongo1975]

@@DesignPrototypeTest thank you, that was the answer I was hoping for lol. Although I'm an idiot and my base is stupidly difficult, Voxelab Aquila (Ender 3 clone) that I'm not pulling the electronics out so those are open on the bottom (outside of the enclosure), with the screen also outside the enclosure. I'm a moron, making it more difficult than it needs to be, but if it works I'm blaming you. Thank you for your videos, they have genuinely helped a ton. Off topic, hopefully the GMC is still good, I have enjoyed that build.

[@ralphlongo1975]

I did build this, no door, I with windows. Ender 5 Pro with an E3d V6, printing ABS with a 100c bed, 260c nozzle, the enclosure is huge, and it is solid at 65c after being on a little while.

[@nihiltube]

The x-max / x-plus from qidi have a spool holder in the enclosure, as well as one outside. I think that's genius exactly because you can print AND dry at the same time (and there are fans blowing air out, so the humidity doesn't stay in). And I know you dissed Qidi printers recently exactly on the enclosure, but here's the thing: yes it is a little bit more wasteful in terms of wasted heat, but you get 50C in the chamber easy.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

The enclouse of the Qidi that I reviewed is pointless. It is not insulated and has a giant hole at the top and at the bottom thus inducing "stack effect" cooling. If the Qidi printers you are talking about are similarly unsealed, the "Enclosure" won't dry with any usable efficacy. I'm massively unimpressed with Qidi after seeing that printer.

[@Jpifr]

I am 200% agree with you, I just buy a 3d printer and eating my fingers because of warping. I am purchasing some aerogel and heat reflector to make my translucent box

[@InsideAlan]

I made something similar for my original A8. But for the front of the enclosure I bought a mismeasured double glazed opening window. £30 from my local double glazing firm.

[@kippie80]

A proper induction probe from Omron at those temps should work fine.

[@aaron2847]

Stratsys MC series is boss. Calibration can be a pain sometimes with certain materials.

[@bobbunni8722]

Great video..looking forward to the clicky switch video...good job!

[@McRootbeer]

Have you checked out proper printings video home on anything? Could be a cheap solution.

[@hjc0706]

when do you need to run water cooling ?

[@the_arcanum]

If you build your printer and enclosure as a whole system as companies like Stratasys do, the only parts that cannot be deported of the heated chamber are the extruder motor and the heatbreak and thus candidates to water cooling. Everything else can and should reside behind an isolating panel (XYZ stepper drivers, controller board, power supply) ad ventilated properly. Inside the chamber, you just have to take care your levelling bed sensor, silicon wires, rubber and limit switches are able to handle the desired temperature for the chamber.

[@michaelstone6633]

Man am I glad I built mine in s4s plywood years ago. Foam may be a good addition.

[@jimberg98]

Why don't you just use sensor-less homing using stall detection? You'd have no melting switches at all. Auto-bed leveling IMHO is just a gimmick. It doesn't level your bed, it compensates for a bed that's out of level and warped. Doesn't it just carry those imperfections throughout the whole print? Even if you don't think it's a gimmick, the fix for that would be to figure out a way to not have your bed go out of level and have a perfectly flat, solid copper platform. You could use a NEMA 23 to control a single, zero backlash ball screw on a z-axis setup like a fork lift for the bed. My Grizzly G6019 has an 80 lb head that doesn't go out of level. I'm sure it can be done with something as light as a 3d printer bed. BTT boards like the BTT SKR v1.4 have built-in support for driving external stepper drivers. I plan to use one for my CNC mill. They label them as CLS (closed-loop stepper) pins, but the stepper driver doesn't have to be closed-loop. They can be any drivers. You'd just need to use external power for the stepper motor. If you look at an Ender 5 Plus closely, you can see that it's perfect for a project like this. The electronics, including 4 of the stepper motors (2 Z, Y, and extruder) could all exist outside of the box. The X could be, too, but I wouldn't be able to patent my idea if I told you. ;-) I love your videos and that you're so effing opinionated. Keep up the good work. Here's my opinion. I think printers with sliding beds are ridiculous and whoever came up with that idea probably just figured out how to adapt a CNC router design and couldn't think beyond that. CoreXY is clearly the better way of doing things. It takes physics into consideration. Printing large objects with your bed shaking back and forth is a design trying to defy Newton's laws of motion. Discuss! ;-)

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

ABL compensates for a bed which isn't perfectly flat. All beds dome/dish (concave/convex) when heated because the heat is not uniform throughout the bed plate. The edges are always cooler which means they are expanding less than the hotter middle section.

[@jimberg98]

​@@DesignPrototypeTest Do you know how it actually compensates? Does it only compensate under a certain z-distance and then tapers out the compensation as you move up in the model or does it compensate all the way to the top? I should add that we put the borosilicate glass on top of the aluminum bed because it doesn't undergo a lot of thermal expansion. Its coefficient of thermal expansion is ≈3 × 10−6 K−1 at 20 °C. Aluminum is 21-24. Copper is 16. Fused quartz (fused silica) is 0.55. (Has anyone tried that). Copper would be a better hot bed because it conducts heat better than aluminum which would make it heat more uniformly. I think your heated chamber will also help make the plate more uniformly heated. My reason for getting a 3D printer was so that I could print PC. I love the info you've been providing. I, too, am working on the perfect printer for that purpose. I'm still learning, though, so it will be a while before I go for it.

[@debonh3828]

@@jimberg98 you could make the bed out of copper, but not as cheap as aluminium. You could use cast iron. Neither much use on a bed slinger due to increased mass, and you'd need a pretty lumpy stepper, and the rest of the machine would need to be more rigid. For a non-bed slinger, would be OK, but not too good canter-levering it off a couple of 8mm rods. For a delta it doesn't matter, they aren't very accurate anyway, ;-)

[@jimberg98]

@@debonh3828As I stated, I don't get bed slingers. Slinging a bed when the material is clamped to it makes perfect sense for routers. It doesn't make sense when you're always hoping that it sticks on its own and you find yourself using hairspray, glue sticks, and other "tricks". The tendency for your print to curl on the edges is bad enough but then you want to throw momentum at them, too? I like the cast iron idea. It is way cheaper and lighter than copper. It even expands less with heat. Aluminum is fine, too, as long as you don't depend on it to be perfectly flat. I would never put a magnet on my aluminum hot bed and stick flex plate to it. Why have a plate that conforms to the flawed shape of the hot bed? The idea is sound for convenience, but I think it would make more sense to mount the magnet to glass and then the flex plate. You could remove the glass with the magnet when you know it will be too hot for the magnet to keep working. There should always be glass for flatness. Whatever you want to build on should go on top of that if it's not the glass directly. Have you seen how resin printers work? Their plates face down, but there's no reason they couldn't face up and be much bigger. I wouldn't use 8mm rods, but I thik they could work as long as you had two bearings on each rod to bear some of the stress from the leverage. I plan to design, prototype, and test. ;-) Thanks, good brainstorming!

[@anthonyrich1592]

@@jimberg98 the Voron guys use cast aluminium (aluminum) plates. Check out Nero3DP for some build videos on the different Voron series and to see how they handle the fixed plate bed setup.

[@paulherman5198]

My Anet A8 wasnt thsat bad. I enabled thermal runaway, soldered the bed wires and used a mosfet.

[@lxc3909]

I appreciate PLA even more now. :] I will be sure to push its limits before jumping to more-difficult-to-print materials.

[@reasonsvoice8554]

The patent hasnt long lapsed thats why they arent doing it yet give it time The heated buildplates were a workaround for said patent which has done pretty well Now you know why people are so het up about slice patents They hold back the industry always have always will So thats why nobody has been making them to sell......stratasys

[@alexbuilder6983]

Love the design, so clean and maintainable!

[@alexbuilder6983]

You could even use a flex3drive to have the extruder motor also down low

[@ElkossComb]

Well this is a good idea to enclose and heat the chamber but for that you need to do it correctly. I explain: the Insulation panel you choose are just garbage in addition to be dangerous for that use. I designed a version where there is 2 aluminium plates with glass wool in between, the surface is recover with an additionnal aluminium heat deflection film. The entire panel is modular, fire proof, and effective. Capability to heat 60°C within an hour in your case is just not possible to use. With better design and mostly better materials you can achieve at least 150°C stable enclosure, with an additionnal heater than the bed, and that under 10min. Glass wool is cheap af, alu panel pretty low cost too, if your are realy aiming a fully fonctionnal prototype able to print industrial grade materials, I think you have to muscle up the design, btw you have pretty expensive tools on this machine you made, Slice Engineering etc, Give the printer the prototype she deserve :)

[@mralderson5627]

Good stuff. I really like the thermal bridging being taken into account and the glass viewing pane, plus the filament being "passively" dried by the heat of the printer.

[@backgammonbacon]

You only need to get the chamber to around 40c so insulation is massive overkill, well done I guess.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Source on the 40° figure?

[@brandoneich2412]

Nice. :) Looking forward to your abl implementation. :D

[@doulos5322]

The problem here is you have no idea about all the printers what you just said about the electronics for example um ender 5 ender 6 maybe?

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

What are you on about? I have a great idea about printers. What is it exactly that you think I said wrong about Ender 5?

[@doulos5322]

@@DesignPrototypeTest That both the ender 5 and ender 6 have all the electronics under the printer.

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

No. The X, Y, and E stepper motors for both of those printers are up on top. Of course many printers including the Ender 3 have control board placement inside a box at the bottom of the printer. That doesn't necessarily isolate it from a potential heated chamber. In most cases it is very difficult to place an insulation layer between the control board and the build volume. Reason being there are vents on top of the box. This is a consideration which must be designed into the printer from the beginning. In the case of the Sapphire I showed here the bottom floor is un-perforated. This makes it easy to isolate a heated chamber from the electronics INCLUDING the X and Y stepper motors. You could do something similar with the Ender 6 but the stepper motors and the Delrin/Nylon wheels of the motion system make that printer a poor candidate for a heated chamber so it doesn't matter if the electronics are under that printer.

[@doulos5322]

@@DesignPrototypeTest got ya

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

I hope you have a nice rest of your day.

[@gibbnal]

Great video. Looking forward to the probe solution.

[@عبداللهمحمدعبده-ذ7ع]

Man you really look like a Palastinian 🇵🇸. Don't know why but when I saw you I remembered the old man from Sheikh Jarrah.

[@matts2581]

Great work. I found that while in a moment of quick need for sealing things the Dollar Tree (here in the US) has some ~1/8" foam/cardboard modeling/hobbyist boards that can make some decent walls when one is cornered to get in the air real quick. It's minus the fire safety factor, but... ...just some side notes. :) Great post. :)

[@NoMercyFtw]

Its the Bambu fanboys that think that a heated chamber isnt needed, but then the smart ones actually install a heater......... I love my Q1 Pro

[@doodle4532]

I have a sapphire plus and have converted mine as well.

[@relativisticvel]

The reason no one does it is because its illegal. This has patents on it owned by stratasys

[@the_arcanum]

Not anymore. The main patent dropped in 2019. We are starting to see closed chamber printers coming from China.

[@ArcanePath360]

My house is the heat chamber. I just turn my central heating up to 65c and go out for a few hours. Problem solved.

[@ZhuJo99]

well, given the energy prices these days, I would think twice about it.

[@customsolutionsinc]

Wow, i just was notified about you video from a year ago about you possibly quiting...... glad you didnt.....

[@seangreenhalgh7961]

Unfortunately no one is really doing it because there are still patents owned by stratasys to do this. Gurn.

[@qwertzuiop116]

wait are american houses really made from plywood ?!?!?!

[@reasonsvoice8554]

Good video thanks Resubbed Just keep making decent videos and quit worrying and bitching about other channels stealing or getting all the views Its only because they make their videos in a kid/young person friendly way yours are more informational Just do your thing