Insulating A Nice House Ep.104

Know the options before insulation is installed. String pro tips: • Using String Like A Pro
Thank you Home Insulation Services! Great work!
Home Insulation: Phone: [phone]
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[@nathanshirai9661]

Howdy Scott, I'm an insulation pro in Tennessee. I'm a subscriber and a fan on KZbin and the podcast. Thank you for your thoughtful approach to construction - it is clear that you grasp the nobility and value of homebuilding, and care greatly about what you're doing. These are the invisible traits that we need more of in this industry! Below is more info on insulation than you'll ever want to know in response to a couple points in this video: 1. For clarity, the blown material in the wall cavities IS fiberglass. The product they are loading into the machine is Johns Manville Spider, which is a fiberglass BIBS (blown-in-blanket-system) product. As far as I know JM does not manufacture cellulose, and cellulose is much dustier and is medium gray in appearance. R value is fairly comparable between the two. Settling over time is a function of installed density. The denser the product is packed into the cavity, the more stable it is over time and less prone to settling. There is a manufacturer spec for correct density, which can be field verified with a special tool, and/or a bag count calculation. For your house, either of these products is superior to batts due to more complete cavity fill. While a "Grade 1" install is certainly possible with batts, it is not typically fully achieved in the real world (Grade 1 means zero voids, gaps, or compression). Batts are not subject to settling over time - we have pulled some of the very first fiberglass batts out of buildings in remodel projects that are still snug against all surfaces of the cavity after 40-50 years of service. The quality and performance of insulation has mostly to do with how well it was installed. 2. The paper facing on batt insulation has a couple pertinent properties. First, it's considered a class II vapor retarder. Second, it holds a staple. Interior-facing vapor retarders were highly favored for many years, especially in cold climates, and in fact are still somewhat enshrined in the IRC for climate zones 4 and above. Manufacturer installation instructions for paper-faced batts would have you unfurl that "ear" across the face of the stud on each side and "face staple" the paper to the studs, then come back and run tape across all those joints in order to create a fairly monolithic vapor retarder across the interior face of the wall. This is almost never done (at least in our area) because drywallers like to see the studs. However, as building science advances, those much smarter than I advocate for more vapor-open assemblies as we make buildings more airtight and highly insulated. My company only installs paper-faced materials in parts of the house where we need to make sure the material doesn't fall out of the assembly - mainly ceilings. Otherwise it's all unfaced. The mold concern with the paper facing isn't usually the paper facing's fault alone, and it is worth remembering that the side of the sheetrock that faces into the stud cavity is usually bare paper as well. So the move to unfaced batts is mainly an attempt to reintroduce a little bit of drying potential to the assembly since we have removed so much of that potential by increased airtightness and insulation R value. Eliminating the vapor retarder layer allows the assembly to dry out just a LITTLE quicker via vapor diffusion. There is more to this discussion that I won't bore readers with here in a KZbin comment. Bottom line, it's a layer that just doesn't need to be there most of the time. 3. I agree with others that the ventilation baffles in the decked ceilings should connect at their ends, especially since you mention a 14" I-joist cavity in one area and the combination of an R30 batt (10" thick) with an R19 batt (6" thick) could result in compressing the fibers against the roof deck. 4. The foil on the attic ceiling behind the upstairs knee walls also serves two additional important functions in the absence of drywall: an air barrier, and an ignition barrier. However, to serve as an air barrier someone needs to come back and air-seal the joints, edges, and penetrations in the foil so that the storage space air does not have a pathway to communicate with the outdoor air that enters the roof assembly. I also noticed this same approach against the exterior wall beneath the stair landing - this is the result of a code requirement that vertical cavity insulation be contained by an air barrier. Someone needs to seal the joints and edges of this area as well before it is trapped behind sheetrock. 5. I noticed orange gun foam around your window jambs. It may be too late by the time this comment posts, but I'd encourage you to verify smooth operation of all windows before sheetrocking. The orange flavor of foam tends to expand a little more, and cure a little harder, than other "low-expansion" / "window and door" flavors of foam. Usually the low expansion stuff is white or light yellow in color, and will exert less pressure on the window frame. We've had to pay for a few window replacements over the years due to our air sealing foam bowing window frames and preventing the smooth operation of double-hung windows. This is most likely to happen when the gap we need to fill is very wide (3/4"+) and very long (4'+). I'm always on the hunt for the least risky window foam, and so far my favorites are Dow Great Stuff Pro Window and Door, and DAP 812 Draftstop. They showed the least amount of expansion in my comparison testing. Ok, this comment is way too long, but I hope the information was helpful to someone out there. Thanks for all your content and for the element of professionalism you bring to our industry!

[@essentialcraftsman]

Wow! Thank you for this comment! This is why the comment section on our videos is the most worthwhile aspect! There is some background information to a couple of your points that I wish you had known before you posted but all in all you have educated me this morning and I appreciate it!

[@nathanshirai9661]

@@essentialcraftsman I certainly don’t mean to throw stones and know how hard it is to get 100% of the info into a KZbin video. I’d be curious to hear the background if you have the time and desire to share it!

[@cindydankuhn2838]

This may be the most well informed comment I have ever seen on any building related video. You have the full depth of knowledge on your products/services that I would love to see in many more instances. Side note, I wish Scott had looked into sealed conditioned crawl spaces prior to starting this place.

[@Kincentc]

North Carolinian contractor and builder of the last 20 years with one of the best mentors on the east coast who taught me the trade. I concur. This man insulates.

[@devinmahoney3777]

So the question on my mind is, if you’ve decided to do blown-in walls for a climate like this and cellulose and fiberglass are similar in cost, which would you go for in a house like this one? Elaborate on any downsides if you’d like. Appreciate your knowledge!

[@maxstepaniuk4355]

That triple speed insulation filling is oddly satisfying.

[@jasoncurtis1793]

Glad im not the only one who thought so 🤣

[@topcat-cv8wg]

And me haha

[@splat_rick3369]

Old boy putting in that insulation reminds me of the Precision Transmissions guy: an artist at work with no wasted movements or time.

[@essentialcraftsman]

Right on!

[@51-FS]

Richard and Trent are good people

[@jdlives8992]

Your right. Artists in my opinion

[@michiganporter]

We love Richard and Trent here!

[@biggreenblob]

I see you are a man of culture.

[@garrett6371]

I've never seen walls blown in like that. It's fun to watch.

[@JohnDotBomb]

Yeah, its almost power washer level satisfying

[@jamesmckelvy5441]

Looks a lot easier than spray foam!

[@davidusry5048]

Same

[@Tomzenzo]

In Norway we have Hunton. It is a wooden alternative. The best thing with the complete system is that it is hygroscopic, and can actually transport away moisture from the construction. Also wood is a bit heavier and so reduces noise better. :-) kzbin.info/www/bejne/iqWYmqZnjdeKe8U

[@warrenmichael918]

i would think this will settle some after a few years, maybe not but it looked a little loose when he was pushing on it.

[@torstenjoergensen]

One thing is for sure - the heating/energy cost is going to increase in the years to come - so the money you spend on insulation now are well spent!

[@themalacast]

Why do you assume so? Our energy prices today are about 30% cheaper in real terms than in 1960 for example. Technology makes most stuff cheaper. www.eia.gov/totalenergy/data/annual/showtext.php?t=ptb0810

[@sally6457]

@@themalacast so why not insulate and reduce energy costs further? Insulation is a one off fixed cost, energy prices can fluctuate.

[@incognitotorpedo42]

@CAD Thinking What's the reason? It's not obvious to me. We're heading for a mostly electric energy world, and the price of electricity from modern technologies is on a downward trajectory.

[@TheKnightrunners]

Amazing how much the sound quality changed in this video. Insulation is huge.

[@dickbutt7854]

It's an incredible difference. A round will go from an echo chamber to a tinnitus chamber as fast as you can throw that stuff up

[@devindombrowski8401]

I don’t mean to come off as a troll but I’ve got to share with you that I just had to remove all my blown in insulation. After about 10 years it completely failed. It compressed and settled in the walls. We figured this out by how cold the house was getting.

[@Dee-mp3hz]

I was hoping someone would say something in regards to this. Cellulose is cheap, effective and effective but as you said it will settle with time and or moisture and a dead space will defeat a good deal of its purpose.

[@ELIRAXPRT]

That sounds like an awefully expensive fix. Did you look into retro-foaming the walls?

[@devindombrowski8401]

@@ELIRAXPRT Well it was becoming more expensive to keep the house at comfortable temperature. My father is a retired contractor so we were able to do the work ourselves and replace it with Roxul. We also took the opportunity to make a few design changes in the house as well.

[@elebeu]

AMEN. I often remove blown in attic insulation and replace with batts for the same reason. The characteristics of each type at their installation lends a clue. When a tube of batt insulation is cut open it literally explodes due to being compressed, and will remain in the expanded condition indefinitely after installation. Blown insulation does not expand when the package is opened and has to be fluffed by the machine. It will settle and loose R value over time.

[@frotobaggins7169]

to be clear, he mispoke when saying it was cellulose. this is spider which is fiberglass, blown in fiberglass. it's very resistant to settlement. I was once hired to remove it after it filled an HVAC trunk line while blowing it in the ceiling cavity. it took hours to removed it via sucking it out with a shop vac and 4 extensions to reach the distance to the second floor. see the first comment at the top for more information about spider.

[@gdsteelbuildings5542]

I'm into Commercial steel buildings and deal with a lot of insulation every now and then. How great would it be to see this man talk about pre engineered steel buildings.

[@dabeamer42]

I implore you to consider putting some insulation in the walls around the laundry! I'm sitting in my office in a newly-built house, and just on the other side of the wall behind me is the laundry. When the washer and/or dryer are on, it is noticeably noisier in here, making video calls much more difficult. It would be only a handful of bats, making the material and labor costs minimal. Unfortunately I didn't have enough detailed control over the build... Increasingly important in today's work-at-home world.

[@TheScarletTomato1]

That guy is a wizard with a staple gun. Check out that action at 1:25.

[@stevew9563]

Yea I was watching that and was like I would like to hear some audio of that!! LOL Chicka Chicka Chicka Chicka Chicka Chicka Chicka Chicka Chicka Chicka Chicka Chicka

[@vanuren3345]

Scott, in my 25+ years in Architecture my continuous battle was reminding customers that the Code is the minimum requirement. Exceeding the code (as with insulating your garage) will have payback returns with every monthly energy bill. Love the channel & hi to Nate & to Kelly as well.

[@JohnnyMotel99]

I would say this about houses in hot climates. The use of silver-backed closed cell sheets in the roof space can really help to reduce radiative heat that comes off the roof tiles.

[@rogerandersen7046]

Would also assume you would want some insulation to keep the cool air from ac’s inside.

[@JohnnyMotel99]

@@rogerandersen7046 hi, I was thinking about property I know in Brazil, they don’t have AC and use open windows for ventilation. After fitting this celotex under the roof, it dramatically reduced the radiative heat from the ceilings.

[@JohnnyMotel99]

@@rogerandersen7046 and this too!

[@l.rod2827]

I built my 750 sq ft detached garage about 12 years ago. My plans was for a workshop/garage so I wanted insulation. The price of DIY insulation and having a contractor install was practically the same so opted for the contractor, (no brainer). WOW those guys were quick, efficient, and best of all comparable in price than DYI. Best move I could ever done. Firm believer in letting the pros (contractors) do their thing when at all possible.

[@craftedworkshop]

Great timing on this one, as I'm moving into finalizing my insulation plans on my current house build. Planning to use Rockwool throughout the walls and roof but am debating on closed cell foam for the underside of the floor in the crawlspace area, as it will both provide great R-value as well as a moisture barrier. So many decisions!

[@IISETIIAUS]

as an apprentice drywaller (gyprocker as we call them) from Australia iv been waiting eagerly for this part of the house construction, cant wait! itch on my fibreglassing friends

[@christophergruenwald5054]

Use spray foam everywhere for maximum comfort

[@dickbutt7854]

@@christophergruenwald5054 and moisture control and structural stability, and time efficiency

[@PortersMob]

@@christophergruenwald5054 You must like echo.

[@jesseh2302]

I did closed cell foam under my pier and beam shop and open cell foam in the walls and roof mainly for air sealing. I’ve been happy with the result so far.

[@barryomahony4983]

Greetings from Bend, Oregon! Moved here recently after 30+ years on the wet side of the Cascades. I just recently found this series and have been catching up. I think it's the one of the finest on KZbin, and certainly the finest construction / trades series.

[@larrycrain5650]

I had not watched this series for a while and I was amazed to see that they are just now insulating. They must have taken a couple months off.

[@Evan-rj9xy]

Having done a bit of fiberglass insulation work, I've got a lot of respect for these guys. Looks like they did a fantastic job

[@travismassengale3743]

So good to watch an insulation video that is cost affective and practical. Everyone likes to over complicate it and spend way more money than it will ever save them.

[@davidusry5048]

Theres something about listening to the wise voice of the old man. So much wisdom, experience, and knowledge conveyed in what he says. This is one of my favorite channels and i get a certain joy when i see a new video is uploaded. I would like to thank the EC team for putting in the effort to share these experiences to the world. Keep up the EXCELLENT work men!

[@chrisfreemesser5707]

Might want to use the term "seasoned professional" instead of "old man"...otherwise Scott might give you a whoopin'! :)

[@pamelah6431]

Real America loves you, Scott. Glad to see that number climbing to a million.

[@derekrosecrans1361]

Perfect answer to the question. Build to the climate that you are in.

[@ALAPINO]

My home was built in 1959. The insulation is long gone, flat and settled. I live in a very cold climate. According to my utility providers I spend 20% to 30% more than other homes of my size and age should. Thanks for the ideas and thanks for sharing!

[@rustyjeep2469]

Nothing will make you appreciate a well insulated house quite like losing power for 24+ hours during a winter storm. That's why I'm at the girlfriend's nice newly remodeled place instead of my drafty old 1910 house with uninsulated walls. 😂

[@ximono]

A decent wood stove wouldn't hurt either :)

[@51-FS]

Can u ask her if she has room for one more? Its freezing cold here

[@bob_frazier]

We went 11 days without power in the epic snow of 2019. A woodstove saved us most of the misery.

[@MustPassTruck]

There is a reason why so many babies come 9 months after winter. 😉

[@billclinton6040]

More like, nothing makes you appreciate an alternative means of heating that doesn't require electricity.

[@duanelundgren7985]

I'm always a bit frustrated that my ONLY choices are either LIKE (Thumbs Up!!!) or DISLIKE (Thumbs Down). My appreciation of the Content and Delivery of this site goes far beyond a mere LIKE!!!! Thank You Mr. W!!!!!

[@MasterCivilEngineering]

Good morning beautiful people!

[@michaeljacobs9613]

From experience. We tend to put Rock wool in all private to public walls. Bathrooms, Bedrooms etc... Just for sound deadening. Because honestly, who want's to hear someone poopin' ? Other than that RockWool is amazingly easy to work with. Waterproof and Fire Rated. Win-Win-Win

[@Realtor_Rion]

This is the best series on home building in all of YT. You continue to provide practical information in a way that is entertaining and without bias. I cant wait for the next video.

[@AggyGoesOutdoors]

Loving Scott's presentation style and delivery on every subject he covers. I could listen to this man for hours 👏🏼👍🏼🙏🏼

[@WayneSmith-yf3fg]

Wondered about vapor barrier on the fiberglass wall insulation. Here in Delaware, all sill plates must be sealed and rock wool used for fire stop places, fiberglass doesn't cut there. Of course we also have 18" of blown in cellulose in the ceiling too.

[@alecthenice8115]

Much better than anything I've seen in the field in coastal VA

[@bryanmiller5584]

As a former insulation pro from Utah I appreciate Nathan's comments. Coming from a climate of temperature extremes, 90 + degrees in the summer and -20s F at times in the winter, we installed almost exclusively cellulose insulation. The proof was certainly "in the pudding". In sheer numbers cellulose has 3.6 R's per inch while fiberglass has 2.2 R's per inch. That's nearly a 40% increase. We always used blown cellulose in ceilings. However, over the course of about 20 years we went from FG batts in walls to pressure packed cellulose in walls to a "wet spray" cellulose system in walls. You have to experience it to understand the performance difference between the systems. The "wet spray" cellulose system was by far the best in terms of living comfort and energy efficiency as well as sound control. Definitely worth looking into if it's available in your area. Of course, as in most things, finding a reputable installer is key.

[@YipeeKiYayJB]

In the vaccum of space the challenge is not keeping warming it is actually keeping cool. With no air for heat to radiate through it just stays in one spot. So the ISS doesn't actually require a large amount of insulation, instead it requires a very sophisticated cooling system to help remove excess build up of heat.

[@rxcalvosa]

In the 45 years I've been in the building trades, there have been many changes. Gone are the days of rigid old timers saying things like, "This is the way it's always been done so, this is how we are doing it". And it's true that 100 year old houses, built on post and pier foundations are still standing here in Eureka, Ca. I learned a lot from the "Old Timers", and being one myself now, I can say with certainty that , In our profession , the only thing that never changes is the ethos of a Craftsman.

[@tylerw4593]

Looking forward to seeing you guys break that 1 million subscriber mark! Keep up the good work.

[@kbranger3498]

I'm in the process of insulating my crawl space ceiling "dining room floor". This was a beneficial video to watch right now:) thank you, for keeping up the good work, so we can keep up our good work👍🏻 enjoy the day everyone!

[@mikeznel6048]

Thats awesome you put the backers in for curtain rods. That was such an insightful move.

[@MrTheBurkes]

Good morning! What a great way to start a day

[@tzvifeldman]

In the region that I build in (New Jersey) , the paper face is still required. It's used as a vapor barrier.

[@JesseWright68]

The curtin rod backing block is a great idea.

[@Joseph4499]

I’m sure the future home owners will really appreciate you guys insulating the garage. We turned our garage into a rec room and had to have it insulated because it wasn’t when the house was built.

[@jamesmassey7629]

One nice thing with Blown in solation you can run Electrical lines in the future because it’s blown in insulation will not block you from doing it

[@AjaxNixon]

seriously, its pretty awesome. The spray foam stuff is a nightmare for the exact opposite reason, atleast with fiberglass you can kind of work with it with some elbow grease.

[@jerryfankhauser2959]

I think the plastic vapor barrier does more than you would think. After the fire in 2005 I put R19 and a plastic vapor barrier in my house. It did have blown in foam before. After we moved back in the energy bills were about 30 % of what they were. The gas company changed the meter 3 times before I caught them and explained the situation. That little piece of plastic was well worth the small cost.

[@bismarck226]

I watched this with full intentions of insulating the house ourselves since we are acting as the general contractor. I can't thank you enough to mentioning how subs can do the job for the same price due to bulk pricing. You were absolutely right, signing the contract tomorrow.

[@nacanielitabua3143]

Was looking for videos on tying rebar....And came across your retaining wall videos.....And eversince then I'm hooked. Went back and started watching from episode 1 and boy do I sure appreciate it!!...Both the technical and logistics aspect of it. And also the documentation and permit acquisitions side. One must be thorough and meticulous when doing such projects. I am a recent engineering graduate and would like to own my own construction business in the future. Watching your videos is inspiring and motivational to say the least. Thank you so so much for being an example. Even when it comes to the farming and household stuff.....Its so satisfying to watch....And as always "Keep up the good work".. Best wishes all the way from Fiji...!!!!

[@DuletovaRadionica]

I'm building my own home, started on March of 2020, yea, great year... Thanks for all of this golden advices, I'm not even near you, but your advices goes many many miles over the "Big Lake". Thanks for this great content! Keep the good work.

[@ValorHeroics]

Man, your channel is therapy. I love it, keep on keepin' on Sir.

[@detonator2x]

This video was really informative and satisfying to watch.

[@schafftastic5778]

I've never seen it done this way... This is awesome!

[@mikeznel6048]

That is a great choice! Well done too! The boys did a great job and your video was great as well!

[@gavinsheehan3320]

Love to see the house coming together finally

[@essentialcraftsman]

Finally indeed!

[@tooltime4640]

Can’t wait to see the drywall! I love this series it’s great information and entertainment

[@colincoady9386]

Lads your content just keeps getting better and better.

[@jackjetpilot]

That's the coolest way to insulate EVER!

[@alasdairmunro1953]

Shaping up nicely Scott!

[@LMarlon]

Some input from a Euro-Carpenter in case anyone cares: At my company the exterior walls and roof a usually structured like this (outside to inside): > generic facade and roofing > circulation layer > ~2in wood fibre board > structural timber and blow in cellulose (anywhere from 8-14in depending on the project) > vapor retardant and "airtight" layer > ~2in layer for pipes and cables, voids filled with wood fibre insulation > wood chip board, like OSB but with much less bonding agent and from new not recycled wood > sheetrock or loam boards, sometimes with internal coils for heating (like underfloor heating). Interior walls are insulated with wood, hemp or jute fibre. I should add that many of our clients value ecofriendly and "healthy" materials (no OSB for example, cause it releases VOCs over time) and i must say that working with such materials is quite enjoyable. On break you can literally pick up some hemp or wood fibre insulation and use it as a pillow and blanket to take a nap, which i would certainly not recommend with mineral wool ;)

[@xxlordbelxx1368]

You pretty much nailed it. There is another ease of no paper as well tho.. With the paper on it it's harder to get a good seal at the points where bitter ends meet the plates and each other in cases of cut pieces in the same 'cell'. (Stud bay as we call it in the midwest) the paper makes it much harder to "mash" the pieces together or into the plate. Also we've come along way in the materials used and the original (primary) reason for the paper was so the materials wouldn't be as much in contact with skin. Now adays the materials used are much less irritating to the skin...

[@lloydwilliams8715]

Good morning EC and the whole crew, and fellow subscribers and viewers. Greetings from Jamaica 🇯🇲. Scott you never stop amazing me on this built always ahead of the pack. This is the first am seeing this type of insulation. 👍👍👍

[@brentderksen]

Looks cozy.

[@dremwolf5419]

I did blown cellulose insulation here in NE Florida decades ago. Boy I hated that work in the middle of the summer in an attic space. Crawl down out of there looking like a gray abominable snowman. Worst of all was adding insulation to mobile homes. The static electricity discharge could blow you right off the ladder if you did not keep everything grounded.

[@bradleyvanderkolk8947]

So fun watching the insulation being poured in.

[@MrGerd]

Pleasure to watch and listen, as always, thanks!

[@BrianJNoah]

That was extremely satisfying to watch

[@dustyandsneezing]

That was amazing to watch

[@rogerfloresdevalgaz]

These videos are therapeutic

[@Rovinman]

You were speaking of the hot countries that don't need insulation, because they leave the doors and windows open. I live in Thailand, now, and see exactly that, where the poorer people, cannot afford to insulate, but in the cool season (our winter), it gets cold, down to 10/11°C. (not cold for you). So there IS a requirement for insulation, on 2 fronts. 1. To stop the hear from leaving the house in the cool season. 2. To stop the heat from entering the house during the hot season. Glazing needs to be double or treble glazed for the same reasons. Love that Blown insulation, works fine on a timber frame house, but not on a concrete post and block house, where I think I will have to get a little more creative. Fascinated by the series, Roll on the next episode. Stu xx (retired Architect)

[@stevegibbs9695]

I subscribed to your channel few months back n I want to Thank you for your Work!!! It's a Great Joy to see there are still people out there in this old world who still the need of doing things Right!!! Thank you!!!!

[@qwertyplm13does51]

Always the best content! Thx !!!

[@rustyshackleford5060]

Keep up the good work!

[@longcaster]

Dag gone it Scott, you did it again. I learned some today. Thank you.

[@calebdunham9411]

Your the best worker😎

[@greatitbroke]

3rd reason for no paper on the fiberglass its not considered a continuous vapour barrier. In Canada you have to have one piece continuous envelope from the sill plate arounds the structure with the seams taped with tuck tape.

[@pileofstuff]

The lack of vapour barrier is the one thing I was wondering about as well. As Scott said, local building codes vary, but I expected that Oregon would be cold enough in a typical winter that a vapour barrier would make sense, if not be required.

[@mikekubassek4987]

We also blow our attics.. and batt our walls...

[@Bob_Lob_Law]

They really should be paying more attention to air sealing. But this house is only really meant to look good.

[@mikekubassek4987]

@@Bob_Lob_Law are you from Cambridge? Maple Grove road?

[@evan-edstrom]

The big thing about paper facing is that it contains a layer of asphaltic glue which acts as a vapor barrier. In a climate like the PNW, keeping that towards the inside of the house is best because it will help stop warm humid inside air in the winter from working through the drywall and condensing on the cold outside sheathing. I think the decision to use or not use it has more to do with whether you need a vapor barrier for the particular situation.

[@kingdomnate6906]

House almost done so cool!

[@ChristiannTyler]

The insulation and soundproofing is something I’d really be excited about if ever given the opportunity to build something for myself.

[@ViskZz]

This was super fun to watch! Thanks!

[@camperjack2620]

Looks like a superb job 😉😉.

[@craigkeeney6391]

Looks great. I wish the building that put my house together paid as close attention to these things as you do. It's hard to believe I have been watching your channel for over a year now watching this project transform. Can't wait to see how everything changes once dry wall is up.

[@johnspence2466]

I've watched every episode and continue to look forward to seeing the next lots of great info with out all the fuss

[@davidwoods5095]

Hi Scott, I really enjoy your videos! You and I have chatted a few times at Gerretsens years ago when I also was a contractor in Roseburg, OR. I moved to Africa in 2007 so have not been working the trades in this area for quite a while. My ranch is just up the road from your place. Would love to come by sometime and say hello. I am very interested in learning to Blacksmith. I began watching your videos while living in Zimbabwe, realized very soon that I knew you. Keep up the good work and thanks again for emphasizing quality. Thanks, David

[@carof08]

That is gonna be one super built beautiful home

[@SnowDog080]

Great video! I learn so much from you. Can't wait for the sheetrock.

[@mmeter3]

great video. they all are. really enjoy the explanation and narration. always worth watching

[@davidjones8680]

Nice job well done.

[@colmhain]

Gettin' close! I'm both looking forward to, and dreading the end of this build.

[@bob_frazier]

Next comes the selling!

[@louislax14]

Back when apprenticing, i'd spend days in the truck with the respirator, pushing and unpacking those celullose bails!! it was months until i could go up and fill the walls myself!! good times!! Thank you for this series!!

[@brianfoley4869]

I love your videos! You've taught me so much about carpentry and using tools. I absolutely love when I'm doing a project and see you have a video that relates to it. I wish you'd do a video on MITER SAW tricks/tips like you did for the skil saw. Please!!

[@eddjordan2399]

Fantastic stuff

[@miquerto]

I really enjoyed the pre spec house content, but I have been especially fond of the the spec house content. I have learned many things about my trade in a different climate and area than mine. All in all, thanks. I appreciate it.

[@rockeerockey6941]

Excellent video, learned a lot!

[@silentepsilon888]

removing the paper backing from insulation might also increase fire safety and reduce spread of fire. And if you watch a plumber sweating copper pipes under the sink to fix chewed up pipes so he can put new shut-off valves on .... there are always wet rags and a spray bottle with water nearby and chances are, the paper on the insulation does catch fire until the spray bottle comes out.

[@Trydntru]

Sure do enjoy your videos!

[@tothediscoboys]

keep up the good work

[@warrensmith5472]

I was surprised not to see a vapor barrier go in'

[@top5toolstouse247]

I spent many summers when I was young insulating homes my Dad was building. Wearing long sleeves and long pants in 100 degree weather. I itched for days and days! Thanks for another great video Sir.

[@thomasgreenan8617]

I enjoy watching EC videos: the subject matter, the narration, the intelligence and honesty, the common sense. I look forward to all of it. I’ve watched every video on this channel. 1. Foam rafter baffles must be carefully positioned and overlapped end-to-end about an inch shingle style to direct any possible moisture to the eave vents. No end-to-end gaps allowed between rafter vents. 2. If stacking insulation batts in the ceiling, top layer must be laid across the joists, lower layer between the joists. They must be stacked perpendicular to each other. Your contractor did what was fast and easy. 3. Living-area exterior walls are not blown with cellulose insulation. It looks like fiberglass wool and "Blowing Wool" is printed on the plastic bag being emptied into the hopper. Blowing wool is fiberglass. 4. Sound insulation would have been ideal in some, if not all, interior walls. Washroom walls at least. “We decided not.” Why? Failure to do so is cheap and/or misguided. 5. The knee-wall closets should be drywalled. Too much work? Too bad. Bite the bullet and do it. The foil-based covering (”... whatever it is ...”) is a shortcut that will deservedly puzzle most buyers. “Practical,” you say? Not by a long shot. 6. Will drywall lay vertically flat on studs where blown insulation is trapped? If not, some planing and other fussing in an earlier video seems wasted. 7. Paper-faced batts have a thin asphalt coating as a vapour barrier, albeit not wholly effective. The asphalt also adheres the fiberglass to the paper. Mould is no more an issue with the fiberglass paper-faced batts any more than the wood studs and paper-backed drywall. It’s all cellulose. “Keep it dry or it will die.” 8. Will there be plastic sheeting or some other vapour barrier applied before drywall? If not, why not? How can you effectively air seal--that is, draft-proof--the interior without a vapour barrier on the inside? (Never mind exterior housewrap: it’s intended to prevent water from contacting wall sheathing yet allow water vapour trapped behind it to escape. It’s not an effective air barrier in most builds.) 9. Fiberglass batts as a firestop in the stairwell walls? No way. Fire will melt it. Use rockwool, wood blocking, or sheet metal. 10. No gloves, no goggles, no masks? No thank you. Some professionals compare fiberglass fibers to asbestos. True or not, safety counts. Sub-contractor arrives on time, does the work on budget, and cleans up before departure? Not good enough.

[@pherdantler707]

When I built my home I opted for cellulose in the attic. Forty years later the original 12" deep application had packed down to less than 4" and a significant loss of insulation had occurred requiring additional insulation be added. The supplemental material was blown fiberglass and the result was very satisfactory. It would seem to me that cellulose settling/packing in walls would be even more pronounced than what I experienced in my 12" attic application, quickly leaving significant uninsulated areas in the tops of stud wall cavities. Thanks for your great videos and bringing us along on your project. "Keep up the good work."

[@jarradrice5455]

Looks like a great insulation job, just gotta make sure you have plenty of fresh air coming in.

[@damonrondeau8416]

Another great vid -- thanks! Just a comment about cold climates, though. I'm on the Canadian prairies, so I'm talking *cold*. What you learn is that you have to be just as concerned about internal air moving through external walls as you have to be about external air making its way inside. It's absolutely imperative to have a water-proof vapour barrier sealing the entire inside wall space. Your warm inside air is chock full of moisture, moisture that's being continually replenished by human activity in the house. When that humidity winds up in your exterior walls, it very quickly freezes and turns to frost and ice. People might be shocked at how much frost builds up over the course of a winter -- a lot! Of course, when the thaw comes this all melts at the same time, making a moisture problem into a much worse moisture problem. If you live in cold weather and expect a lot of sub-zero temps in the winter, you need an interior vapour barrier.

[@ximono]

Same thing in Norway. But if you insulate with cellulose or wood fiber, you could use a "vapour control" that lets some water vapour through (relatively low Sd value), as the fibers will transport that moisture to the outside. Basically how old log houses work. I should know, I'm typing this from inside one :)

[@frotobaggins7169]

yes, building science is a very complicated topic not easily understood. It varies from climate to climate, what works for hot climates won't work for cold climates. what works for sub zero climes may be less effective at more moderate cold climes. there is no blanket, one size fits all solution to insulation and vapor barriers. it's important to remember that EC is in the Pacific North West where it gets neither hot nor cold and A/C is often not needed in the summertime.

[@guysquarred]

It's mesmerizing to watch the cellulose being blown in place. Windows are not always increasing energy cost ! More windows means less electrical light. And south oriented window bring solar energy inside, it's even the only heat source in passives houses !

[@xoxo2008oxox]

Ready to rock!