Intel 160GB- SSD Repair - Can we Fixx it?

[@BabeRyHellCat]

Great Video and Subscribed!!

[@JFIXX1]

@@BabeRyHellCat Thanks I appreciate that

[@akara8793]

Try to add flux and reflow the solder on the chip. Last resort cheap option to try.

[@nessim.liamani]

Thanks! Very informative

[@JFIXX1]

@@nessim.liamani I hope to make part 2 with some things to try from the comments feedback

[@chrisconlon7970]

25:18 check the small capacitor on the left of your hotspot. Try that first.

[@JFIXX1]

@@chrisconlon7970 Thanks for the suggestion Chris

[@worroSfOretsevraH]

Those 30-40 degrees are normal temperatures for an idling drive. Also the heat was evenly spread across the chip. I would check the 2 pairs of data lines, and make sure they are intact. You should find some series coupling caps on the way towards the controller, check them too.

[@JFIXX1]

@@worroSfOretsevraH Great advice thankyou

[@2009numan]

you was checking the wrong pins, the pins you was trying to find the 3.3 volts on was the data pins, not the power pins

[@JFIXX1]

@@2009numan Yes you are definitely correct! I couldn't measure properly that's why I bought the new dock so I could actually see what I was doing. Also I was trying to do everything looking through my camera it's quite hard when recording

[@longdang2681]

@@JFIXX1 There are two sets of pins separated by a gap(data and power). The pin layout is purposely symmetrical. The 5v are the middle 3 pins on the bigger set of pins. Those three 5v pins are sandwiched by 3 pins of ground on each side. Then you get 3 pins of 3.3v on one side and 3 pins of 12v on the other edge. All SSDs draw idle current; so the controller chip heating up is not proof of it failing.

[@JFIXX1]

@@longdang2681 I appreciate your input - what I'm looking for is another drive exactly the same with the same firmware revision. I would like to analyse the behaviour of a know working drive to proper understand the normal working conditions and have a reference point to compare to. Without schematics or understanding the normal behaviour I can only make assumptions. I have had some great feedback in the comments and I may be able to do a revisit video as I obtain more understanding

[@JFIXX1]

@@longdang2681 Can you share from you experience what type of idle current you can expect to see also are there any additional tool you can recommend. I would love some professional tools like PC-3000 but the prices are not viable for someone like me

[@longdang2681]

@@JFIXX1 Intel specs claim 0.6W idle for some of their data centre line of drives(eg. dc s3610). I would expect the 2500 pro drive to be similar or lower but it is not unknown for some drives such as Crucial 5100 eco to draw over twice as much at ~1.3W in idle. Idle power is non smooth for SSD that do garbage collection as it spikes when garbage collection is in progress; that's why they quote average idle power. I think SSD that have been dormant for some time would stay in a 'busy not ready state' as they do go through their routine checks. I believe sata SSD only need to draw from the 5v rail, so the other two rails are for extra features. I don't know of any additional tools to recommend. Maybe the no ground pin that is not reading correctly(middle one sandwiched between 5v and 12v rails) might lead to a source of the problem?

[@martin87865]

Without a heatsink how can you be sure that the chip is not running normally ??

[@JFIXX1]

@@martin87865 This is a good point Martin. I am not sure what the normal temperature should be but my thinking was that it appeared to heat up instantly very hot without performing and activity and there was a pinpoint hotspot inside the chip not just the chip warming up as it's transferring data under load etc. It would be useful to have another drive the same as a reference point as a lot of the time I am only guessing things

[@SymbolTech21]

Just keep it for spare parts. You never know when you will need a part from that board

[@JFIXX1]

@@SymbolTech21 Also I can try practice with BGA and solder balls

[@SymbolTech21]

@JFIXX1 that's definitely a plus. Do you have the kit for reballing bga chips?

[@JFIXX1]

@@SymbolTech21 No nothing yet I will get them but I also need to get something's for making videos first like the microphone and camera

[@frozerinosrepairs]

Great video again 👏👏👏

[@JFIXX1]

@@frozerinosrepairs Thankyou!

[@mikecass8306]

Thanks James 😀

[@JFIXX1]

@@mikecass8306 Your welcome Mike

[@ziafathussain8546]

You can try reflowing the chip since it's already faulty

[@ziafathussain8546]

The controller and chips programmed to work together you'd need a exact same drive to get the controller from to work

[@ziafathussain8546]

I don't think the 2.5 drives use 12v that's why you can power em from a USB port

[@JFIXX1]

@@ziafathussain8546 That makes sense what about mechanical 2.5 drives do they require 12v for the motor? Thanks

[@ziafathussain8546]

@JFIXX1 no only 5v even 3.3v is not available on most atx power supplies via sata connection

[@JFIXX1]

@@ziafathussain8546 That's good to know! I assumed it was using all 3 until I saw it said 5v on the case - with every thing I try and repair I'm learning something new!

[@ziafathussain8546]

@@JFIXX1 No problem 😊

[@lordmmx1303]

damn, another mymatevince channel

[@AstorTillero]

MybeardedVincent?

[@JFIXX1]

@AstorTillero Haha

[@JFIXX1]

@@lordmmx1303 Thanks !

[@techentertainment5943]

Brother try reballing the chip

[@JFIXX1]

@@techentertainment5943 I don't have any reball equipment but maybe I will in the future. However I'm not sure if it will help in this case as it doesn't seem to be an interrupted signal from a cracked solder ball or missing connection to pad? This looks like the chip is shorted inside so unless some of the pads have started touching each other I'm not sure how it would help. I would still like to do a reball anyway as I need to buy the tools and get practice to learn the new skills.

[@jafab5265]

The only advice I can offer after watching literally dozens of videos, is the fact that you have a few shorted capacitors, and a voltage injection tool could be used to inject voltage on one of those capacitors to rule out that it’s not one of the capacitors, and then if the icy chip still Shows up as a hotspot on the thermal camera when injecting voltage into one of those short capacitors chances are that I see chip is at the bad guy, in which case, recalling a new chip and replacing it may work providing that is not the main ship and providing it does not need programming, also try looking up the specifications of that chip.

[@JFIXX1]

@@jafab5265 Thankyou for great advice I have a power supply and the ability to easily inject current into a short. However I did not think about doing this as this short has a high resistance not a short to ground but shorted through a component. If I didn't see any thing shorted on my Thermal camera then I think I would have tried come with the power supply and inject 5v on the missing 5v rail and see if any current was taken. I have the ability to program chips but I don't think I would locate the required files I think I would need to find a second exact model and make a clone of that chip to copy to a new IC. In this case data recovery was not required there was nothing too important on there and I will purchase a new SSD for this laptop. I believe even if I was to get this SSD working after getting a new IC programming and reball I would not trust it to keep working long term. I think I will buy a larger capacity brand new drive. But I did enjoy learning about SSDs and seeing failure points

[@jaimecosta2966]

It would be interesting to gind out the price of the chip and wether its available .. if not to expensive replace it .. personaly i belive it would make a good vídeo. Wish you well

[@JFIXX1]

@@jaimecosta2966 Maybe I will make another follow up video in the future

[@playmangostingiu2217]

I suggest to just remove those two suspect capacitors and see what happens. In many videos I saw that there are components that are not strictly needed. Of course if that ssd contains important data instead of just removing they should be replaced.

[@JFIXX1]

@@playmangostingiu2217 I believe if the capacitor was faulty then I would see a much lower resistance measurement if I was to take off the main controller IC I think the short would be gone on the capacitors. I am going to get a new SSD but I'm interested to do a revisit video to have a play with this if I can find another drive exactly the same I can compare measurements and use the second good drive as a reference point as I have no Schematics to work from

[@RandomUser2401]

Uff.. this really was a repair (well, analysis) in slooow motion

[@JFIXX1]

@@RandomUser2401 I think I will get quicker with more experience! Shame I wasn't able to repair it in the end but I enjoyed seeing how it works

[@RandomUser2401]

@@JFIXX1 yes :)

[@park8023]

Check for faulty regulator... This is not overheating temp.

[@JFIXX1]

@@park8023That's interesting I'm going to check again tomorrow thankyou. If the regulator is faulty it can be allowing too much current to flow? I am looking for another drive the same so I can compare measurements

[@ziafathussain8546]

A usb tester meter + a usb to sata cable would be useful to test the power draw

[@JFIXX1]

Yes this is what I have in the video

[@ziafathussain8546]

@JFIXX1 I see I didn't watch the full video before 😀

[@Aisflou]

FB its ferrite bead not fuse

[@JFIXX1]

Thanks that's really useful. Do you happen to have a list of schematic markings and what they all refer to that you would be willing to share

[@Aisflou]

@JFIXX1 dont know of one really, just by experience, C cap, R resistor, L inductor, F fuse, FB ferrite bead, D diode, thats the basic usually... Maybe there is some info around, i didnt checked it really 🤔

[@nessim.liamani]

@@JFIXX1 ### 1. Component Codes - C: Capacitor - D: Diode - F: Fuse - L: Inductor - PC: Power Capacitor - PQ: Power Transistor - PR: Power Resistor - U: Integrated Circuits, BIOS chips, Embedded Controllers, etc. - Y: Crystal Oscillator ### 2. Abbreviations for Signals and Concepts - AC: Alternating Current - DC: Direct Current - AGND: Analog Ground - BAT+: Battery Positive Rail - ADP_ID: Adapter Identification - VCC: Voltage Common Collector - BOM: Bill of Material Management ### 3. Specific Indicators - CHGEN: Charge Enable - ACOV: Input Overvoltage Protection - BUZER: Buzzer or Beep sound generator - EC_ON: Embedded Controller Enable Signal C :CAPASITOR D :DIODA F :FUSE L :INDUKTOR PC :POWER CAPASITOR PD :POWER DIODES/DIODA PL :POWER INDUCTOR PQ :POWER TRANSISTOR PR :POWER RESISTOR PU :POWER INTEGRATED CIRCUIT Q :TRANSISTOR R :RESISTOR T : Transformers U :INTEGRATED CIRCUIT/BGA CHIP/EMBEDDED CONTROLER/BIOS IC,ETC X : Terminal strips, terminations, joins .oscilator Y : Crystal Components code and abbreviation on Laptop motherboard COMPONENTS CODE C :CAPASITOR D :DIODA F :FUSE L :INDUKTOR PC :POWER CAPASITOR PD :POWER DIODES/DIODA PL :POWER INDUCTOR PQ :POWER TRANSISTOR PR :POWER RESISTOR PU :POWER INTEGRATED CIRCUIT Q :TRANSISTOR R :RESISTOR T : Transformers U :INTEGRATED CIRCUIT/BGA CHIP/EMBEDDED CONTROLER/BIOS IC,ETC X : Terminal strips, terminations, joins .oscilator Y : Crystal ABBREVIATION ON LAPTOP MOTHERBOARD SCHEMATIC AC : Alternating current ACDRV : AC adapter to system-switch driver output ACEDET : Adaptor Current Detector ACGOOD : Valid adapter active-low detect logic open-drain output ACIN : Adaptor Current sensor Input ACN : Adapter current sense resistor ACOP : Input Over-Power Protection ACOV : Input Overvoltage Protection ACP : Adapter current sense resistor, positive input. ADP+ : Adapter Positif Suplay ADP_ID : Adapter Identity AGND :Analog Ground ALWP :ALWAYS ON POWER B+ : AC OR BAT POWER RAIL FOR POWER CIRCUIT BATT : Battery BAT+ :BAT POWER RAIL FOR POWER CIRCUIT BAT_DRV :Bat Fet Gate Driver BAT_V Battery Voltage BOM :BILL OF MATERIAL MANAGEMENT BT :BUTTON BT_EN :Bloototh Enable BUZER :Connected BYP :Baypass CHGEN : Charge enable active-low logic input CIN : Input Capacitor CLK_EN :CLKOCK ENABLE CN :CONECTOR CRT :Cathode ray tube CSIN :Current Sensor input Negatif CSIP :Current Sensor input Positif DC :Direct current DM :DIM/DIM SOCKET/SOKET MEMORY/SOKET DDR DOCK :DOCKING SOCKET EC :Embedded Controler EC_ON :Embeded Controler Enable EMI :Elektromagnetik Interference(GANGGUAN ELEKTROMAGNETIK) EN :ENABLE ENTRIP :Enable Terminal F :FUSE FSEL : Frequency Select Input. GATE : Trigger gate GND :Ground GP :GROUND PIN GPI :General Power Input GPIO :General Power Input Output HDMI :High-Definition Multimedia Interface ID :Continuous Drain Current IDM :Pulsed Drain Current IIN : Operating Supply Current IIN(SHDN): Shutdown Supply Current IIN(STBY): Standby Supply Current IS :Continuous Source Current (Diode Conduction) IVIN :Battery Supply Current at VIN pin JP :JUMPER POINT KBC :Keyboard Controler LCDV :LCD POWER LDO :Linear Driver Output LGATE : Lower-side MOSFET gate signal LPC :Low Pin Count LVDS :Low-voltage differential signaling(SYSTEM PENSIGNALAN) MBAT :MAIN BATTERY NB :North Bridge ODD :OUTPUT DISC DRIVE PCI :Peripheral Component Interconnect PGOOD : Power good open-drain output PIR :PRODUCT IMPROVED RECORD PSI# :Current indicator input PVCC : IC power positive supply RSMRST : Resume Reset RTC :REAL TIME CLOCK SB : South bridge SHDN :Shutdown SYS_SDN :System Shutdown SPI :Serial Peripheral Interface TD :Death Time THRM :THERMAL SENSOR TMDS :Transition Minimized Differential Signaling(TRANSMISI DATA TEKNOLOGY) TP :TES POINT TPAD :THERMAL PAD UVLO : Input Undervoltage Lock Out V :RAIL(POWER) V+ :Positive Voltage VADJ : Output regulation voltage VALW :ALWAYS ON POWER VALWP :VALW PAD VBAT :BATTERY POWER VCCP :power chip(ich,graphic chips) VCORE :POWER PROCESOR VDD : Control power supply VDDR :POWER DDR (VDRAM/VRAM/VMEM) VDS :VOLTAGE DRAIN SOURCE VFB : feedback inputs Power VGS :VOLTAGE GATE SOURCES VIN : Input Voltage Range VIN :ADAPTER POWER SUPLAY(vol_in) VL :Power Lock VL :voltage across the load/Tegangan beban resistor VL :Voltage Linear VLDOIN :Power supply of the VTT and VTTREF output stage (to powerMOS). VOT :Volt_out VRAM :Power Memori VREF :POWER REFERENCES/SCHEMA REFERENCE/PERMINTAAN SKEMA VS :SUITCH POWER VS+ :SUPPORT VOLTAGE POSITIF VSB :POWER SWITCH BUTTON VSS : Signal ground. VSW :POWER SWICT VTT : Memory Termination Voltage VTERM :Memory Termination Voltage VUSB :POWER USB VGA :POWER VGA (VGPX/VGPU/VCVOD) VGFX :POWER GRAPHIC CHIP VREF :VOLTAGE REFERENCES Credits to "Adie Dkhaz "

[@marcse7en]

You called it a, "Hard Drive." I have images of all my System Drives, and multiple backups of my Data Drive. I laugh in the face of data loss, or hardware failure! ... 30 years of using and building PCs hasn't been wasted!

[@JFIXX1]

@@marcse7en Do you use cloud storage as well

[@marcse7en]

@JFIXX1 No. I don't need it. I want to have total control over my data. My data has never been safer or more secure. I've got it down to a fine art. Two encrypted copies of my data go everywhere that I go. Even when I step out of the door, one encrypted copy of my data goes with me along with my keys. The encryption key is stored on my phone in a secure folder, and the phone is encrypted too. It requires three passwords to start the phone. Confidence in the security of one's data is a great feeling! 👍 EDIT: Tried to answer your question (below) in detail, but KZbin seemingly removed my comment TWICE! ... Sorry!

[@JFIXX1]

@@marcse7en Wow I admire your efforts! Can you share what portalable storage you use

[@marcse7en]

@@JFIXX1 It's not often I get complimented on my technical prowess! ... My portable storage is simple and not too expensive. Firstly, my data is divided into three main types; Audio (CD music, and audio recordings), Data (photos, documents, PC software), and Video (home videos from the past 40 years). I use a USB Flash Drive (metal SanDisk 256GB) which my Data Folder ONLY is backed up to. The drive is encrypted with VeraCrypt. If lost or stolen, the Data is totally secure. This USB drive fits in a zipped compartment in my key wallet. When I leave my home, my keys and encrypted Data go with me. The USB Drive is my last choice for Data recovery. I also carry with me, a 2TB Western Digital M.2 NVME SSD, in a USB case. This is also VeraCrypt encrypted, and holds ALL of the Data I've created in the last 30 years, and all my home movies over the last 40 years. This is one of my first choices for Data Recovery, but be aware, unpowered SSDs can lose data over long periods of time! This drive is powered up rack week to run a backup. At home, I have another two bus-powered 2.5" USB hard drives (unencrypted) which also back up all my data. My main Data Drive is currently a 5TB Western Digital bus-powered USB HDD. I back up every Sunday to my four back up drives. Data loss is practically impossible. It would take a nuclear EMP to destroy it! My Data is incredibly valuable to me. Losing it is not an option. I would say to people, if you value your Data, backup, backup, backup, and backup ... And take two encrypted copies with you, everywhere you go! Also remember to scan your storage media with Victoria, and check the Smart Data. Also, it's good practice to rewrite your Data every few years, to guard against bit rot. Oh, and avoid SEAGATE like the plague! ... WD are bullet proof in my experience. Bet you wish you'd never asked now? 🤣

[@marcse7en]

@@JFIXX1 I don't believe it! ... I spent AGES writing a long comment, explaining my backup procedure. I came back to edit it, and it's VANISHED into thin air! KZbin have been shadow banning me for a long time. Comments vanish, get removed, and KZbin often threaten me. Imy sick to death of them. Unless the comment reappears, you won't see it. Just remembered, I copied the comment onto my Tablet clipboard, just before posting it. Here it is pasted from the clipboard, although it will likely disappear again! ... The edit was that I use a FREE program called Synchredible to backup my drives. I highly recommend it. It's not often I get complimented on my technical prowess! ... My portable storage is simple and not too expensive. Firstly, my data is divided into three main types; Audio (CD music, and audio recordings), Data (photos, documents, PC software), and Video (home videos from the past 40 years). I use a USB Flash Drive (metal SanDisk 256GB) which my Data Folder ONLY is backed up to. The drive is encrypted with VeraCrypt. If lost or stolen, the Data is totally secure. This USB drive fits in a zipped compartment in my key wallet. When I leave my home, my keys and encrypted Data go with me. The USB Drive is my last choice for Data recovery. I also carry with me, a 2TB Western Digital NVME SSD, in a USB case. This is also VeraCrypt encrypted, and holds ALL of the Data I've created in the last 30 years, and all my home movies over the last 40 years. This is one of my first choices for Data Recovery, but be aware, unpowered SSDs can lose data over long periods of time! At home, I have another two bus-powered 2.5" USB hard drives (unencrypted) which also back up all my data. My main Data Drive is currently a 5TB Western Digital bus-powered USB HDD. I back up every Sunday to my four back up drives. Data loss is practically impossible. It would take a nuclear EMP to destroy it! My Data is incredibly valuable to me. Losing it is not an option. I would say to people, if you value your Data, backup, backup, backup, and backup ... And take two encrypted copies with you, everywhere you go! Also remember to scan your storage media with Victoria, and check the Smart Data. Also, it's good practice to rewrite your Data every few years, to guard against bit rot. Bet you wish you'd never asked now? 🤣

[@celulari]

Man, that's a LOUD beep!

[@JFIXX1]

@@celulari Sorry my camera is very close to try and get everything in shot

[@snakezdewiggle6084]

Its Seagate man, send it back for the warranty.! Thanks for that SCREEMING dmm in me ear. Whatya thingK ya doin man...

[@JFIXX1]

@@snakezdewiggle6084 sorry for the loud volume!

[@rectify2003]

Subscribed

[@JFIXX1]

@@rectify2003 Thankyou that is very kind of you hopefully you will enjoy my new videos

[@rectify2003]

@ Your Welcome

[@RR310_Rider16]

amazing video brother.sub from sorin. can you share the cloning kit link..thanks

[@JFIXX1]

@@RR310_Rider16 www.sotel.de/Computer-Drucker/PC-Zubehoer-extern/Festplatten/externe-Gehaeuse/ICY-BOX-Dockingstation-Klonstation-fuer-M-2-NVMe-SSD-und-2-5-3-5-SATA-SSD-HDD.html?listtype=search&searchparam=ICY%20BOX%20IB-2913MCL

[@JFIXX1]

@@RR310_Rider16 Thankyou for watching and I have shared you the link