Interceptor 650 speedo condensation fix

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[@InTheShedUK]

That capacitor is not adjustable, it's an electrolytic capacitor, the cross in the top is a pre-weakened section so if the capacitor fails it doesn't explode instead it just bulges out. Amazing that all those electronics are required replace a couple of cables and a few bulbs, that's progress for you!

[@internetpolification]

Interesting. Says it all, eh? All that lot for a few warning lights, speedo and tacho

[@stewartcameron7894]

Hi James,agree with you 100% about not continually polishing the engine casings.I used to but now I just apply ACF50 with a cloth every few wks and they look fine.😊

[@internetpolification]

Ah! I’m not the only one then! Someone said I should be re-named James ‘Slack’ England! I must say, life is a lot easier not wanting to polish the casings although I theoroughly understand why people do actually do it……..

[@mikerider58]

I cancelled my Amazon account because they overcharged on posting 📫 I was also sick of the delivery guy leaving parcels at my door 🚪 and having the cheek to photo it, like that proves you got it. Bring back shops l say, go and buy it and take it home 🏡

[@internetpolification]

Me too! When Bezos thanked Amazon prime customers for financing his vanity space rocket tourist trip, I cancelled immediately. I no longer buy a thing from Amazon either!

[@thomascharnock]

I'm sure I read somewhere that it's the yellow stickers on the back of the speedo unit. They should be removed but never are. I can see a few people have also mentioned this in the comments too. Still need to do thios myself as I'm sick of seeing the dreaded condensation

[@internetpolification]

Yes, that seems to be the issue. I’ve left mine on to stop moist air going inside but I bet, from what people have said, that they are a transit thing that should be removed. I’m going to see how my silica gel goes and, if it doesn’t work long term will e removing the stickers!

[@bazabiker4870]

No, it's not adjustable, that's a scored cross made in the end of an electrolytic capacitor, designed as a weak point, shoulc its internals over pressure. The big 3 leg device nearby is possibly a voltage regulator and the 2 large Capacitors, possibly are part of the voltage regulation circuit (I'd guess reducing the bikes 12 to 14V supply to 5V). The multi legged device is possibly a programmable IC. I'd try not to touch the devices for fear of damage (or latent damage) by static discharge

[@internetpolification]

It all looks very complicated in there!

[@kilburncounty]

Another sufferer here. Thanks James - that's exactly the fix I've been considering. I await your results with interest!

[@internetpolification]

It’s such a common problem! Early signs are the silica gel sachet is working fine!

[@Zippytie]

ive got the same issue , will be taking it to bits and putting a little packet in the same , might warm it up with a hair dryer to encourage drying , and then use some fishing elastic in the housing joint, this was reccomended by another you tuber

[@internetpolification]

Sounds like a good idea! My dials are completely moisture-free now. I plan on checking the sachet in a few months to see what’s what

[@ruahinesrider]

I peeled yellow stickers off drain/air holes underneath clocks & was sweet after. Pity RE uses their own Red clip design on the Rectifier Regulator cables otherwise you could of made your own silly Red lock cable but have it yellow🤣& copyright it then sell the Rectifier Regulator Cables yourself & be the only supplyer. Most bikes have them mounted under triple tree or on frame in front if engine RE has put it in the worst place to get road grime etc on it & not a lot of air flow.There are a few videos about people getting new one's after it failed & just replacing it with new one & less videos that have moved it to better position like behind side cover & removed the toolbag to accommodate it.

[@internetpolification]

I think I AM the only supplier of the extension cables, actually!

[@chrispomphrett4283]

Weren't they better when they were fully mechanical. Cheaper to fix too. Machines that potentially live outdoors have got far too reliant on electronics. My vintage XL500 is 40 years old and despite off road dunking, the clocks remain dry.

[@internetpolification]

Absolutely!

[@alansawford6167]

👍🏻I’ve got that problem in both speedo & rev counter so look forward to what happens. Safe riding

[@internetpolification]

You too! Take care

[@felixVanDiemen]

Interesting idea mate, I look forward to hearing how it goes. Perhaps you could put some silicone round that shroud? It would be easily removed, unlike glue and it might help keep the moisture out. I'm amazed at how much circuitry is in there 😮

[@internetpolification]

Me too! It’s full of chips and circuits etc.

[@JohnSmith-xw5qe]

Maybe I’ve been lucky so far? I’ve not had condensation problems & I’ve still got the yellow stickers on the dials,so at the moment my attitude is if it ain’t broke don’t fix it! Good video as I’ve often wondered what it was like inside them dials👍🏻

[@internetpolification]

Absolutely. You’ll know if/when condensation gets in

[@martinowl]

Good experiment, will be interested to see how it goes. Mine were bad on Saturday when I went out for a ride.

[@internetpolification]

Mine have been completely clear since……..

[@SouravAcharya9444]

yup nicely done

[@internetpolification]

It seems to be working fine

[@esrider7765]

Hi, The Himalayan 411 has the same feature of being very attractive to water ingress. I have a new 2024 model and it's the same. Yesterday I stripped down my dash and friends 2021 411. The cure is to put a nitrile rubber strip in-between the 2 halves of the dash. Currently there is some white foam in there. The Nitrile can be purchased off aliexpress etc. 1.5mm wide and normally sold in 2 meter lengths. The original foam can be left in place. The nitrile is a few euros for 2 meters with shipping. As an extra precaution a very thin film of silicon grease applied to the nitrile (not vaseline). Pushed down into the gap then the 2 halves mated back together and screwed back up. Work your way around the casing so you dont get any pressure points and to balance load on case. I really do NOT recommend the silica gel pouch as when it gets wet it will stay wet and be touching the circuit board in display, this be corrosive to circuit board in time. It will continue to gather more and more water over time and cause problems. Though initially you might think its worked until it saturates. You have to stop moisture getting into the display.

[@internetpolification]

Well…. We’ll see….I’m going to leave it in there and see how it fares after a few months but I get your point…..for all the time that it takes though, I may remove it annually and stick it in the microwave. Another point of ingress (possibly) is that rubber shroud covering the block connector, smack in the firing line of rain. Anyway, we’ll see….. onwards and upwards

[@davidyendoll5903]

The only other thing would be to provide more ventilation , but that is not possible due to the location . I agree totally with you . i have not heard of any clock failures on these 650s , or any other failures , reading bike magazines and youtube , so silicon grease the rubber molding . When the bike is going to be off the road , resting over nasty winter maybe , the head lamp bung could be pulled out to provide extra ventilation ? Get the silica jell away asap . It will store damp and probably wear away at that very complex electronics . In addition some of those lecky bits let off heat which might melt your silica bag or worse . Dump the bag ! Dear me .....only trying to help !

[@esrider7765]

@@davidyendoll5903 All the lights are now solid state LED. The silica gel pouch is a recipe for ruining the circuit board. (expensive to replace).

[@internetpolification]

Well….time will tell. I’m probably going to replace it every year…… or try removing the yellow stickers and see if that helps….

[@esrider7765]

@@internetpolification Your bike but think you will be storing problems up for it.

[@conradstone6719]

Had the same problem of condensation in speedo and tach on my my Interceptor, put clear silicone sealant on the joint last year, no problems since(came from washing the bike I believe).

[@internetpolification]

Mmm…water is maybe getting in that way then….

[@martinowl]

I wondered if the moisture was getting there from washing the bike. Which joint have you sealed?

[@internetpolification]

I haven’t actually sealed any of the joints. I just put the silica gel sachet into the clocks…. For now I’d rather do that than remove the yellow stickers (which apparently cures the condensation problem too and is much easier to do).

[@Stevie197666]

Hi James, I had the same problem. All I did was remove the yellow round stickers, then no more condensation as it let's the clock's breath with air . Mine has been fine for 2 years now . I meant to as before. Do you have any rectire cables left over ?

[@internetpolification]

Maybe they put stickers on the holes by accident….. mine do look a bit random…… Yes, I making up some rectifier cables later this week when I receive the connectors. You can email me on [e-mail]

[@ruahinesrider]

Yes that's what I did too was remove yellow stickers & then went for ride in 100kmh area to blow air up through the drain holes that were covered & it was sweet after.Those stickers cover the drain holes to let the moisture out the Dealerships should be told to remove them when bike comes in same with the grease in the relays.

[@ruahinesrider]

Every RE Interceptor/GT has those yellow stickers over drain holes,air holes.Probably put them on to stop salt air/moisture getting in their during transport same with the Grease in Relays which should be removed by Dealership on unpacking.

[@Lynt144]

Removing the yellow stickers 2 years ago , no misting since 😎

[@internetpolification]

Yes, same for helmet visors. I would have done that but couldn’t fit the dishes in! Ha ha. I think the washing up liquid trick just stops water condensing on the inside of the glass…but it still means damp air floating about inside and condensing on something else…..

[@danielkerr4100]

Ive had this issue in every single bike with these style of dials honestly and most of the time ive done this or just left ir put up with jt like i have on my int 650 at the moment

[@internetpolification]

Mine appear to have lost the condensation. I also removed the little yellow stickers which people have said are a transit thing that should be removed by dealers….

[@vincentbone825]

My interceptor suffers in exactly the same way with condensation, so interested to see how your fix holds up. No other machine in many years of riding has ever suffered like this... sadly it seems common for RE.

[@internetpolification]

Yes! I think they virtually all do it!

[@kelvinharrison6702]

I have seen vid were theyve done same but cleaned lens with 1 drop of washing up rub it on then polish off leaves film on it in practice should wrk.

[@internetpolification]

Yes…it works on helmet visors too, I believe

[@leighcoulson2148]

I was thinking of doing the same thing. Just haven't got around to it yet.

[@internetpolification]

It’s certainly working on my bike! I’ll leave it a few months and see what’s what with the silica gel sachet.

[@redzed40]

Nice one mate

[@internetpolification]

Thanks! It’s working fine! It cleared the condensation shown in the video within minutes. Of course, if it fails, I’ll post the results, but it’s looking good!

[@simonbowen6653]

Hope it works. I tried a thin smear of washing up liquid on the lenses but condensation still returned.

[@internetpolification]

Time will tell! It’s working so far …😀

[@rucker69]

Need to get your microphone gain reduced sir. thanks for continuing to post neat ideas.

[@internetpolification]

Yes…I’m only using an iPad! Doing my best……lol

[@peterwilson8797]

It does get warm. This heats the air causing the condensation. Similar to condensation on the cold bathroom window.

[@nikoscosmos]

Condensation is caused by moist warm air hitting a cold surface.

[@peterwilson8797]

@@nikoscosmos The PCB warms the air. The glass is cold.

[@nikoscosmos]

@peterwilson8797 yes, that's my understanding. There is moisture sealed in the unit which is then taken up by the warmed air which then condenses on the cold surface.

[@user-rf9me7xm1w]

Good grief, that looks complicated. I’m no motorcycle tech but do recognise the surface mount components and architecture. It is there partly to facilitate the operation of the initial start up routine when all the sensors on the bike are addressed in turn. If any are not in spec, the engine warning light is illuminated. This is all done while the analogue needles are swept. I believe the many legged chip is a micro controller and works in conjunction with the main C.P. U located under the seat. Similar control systems are used in cars and is known as a CAN BUS system. Without it, it would be impossible to control the engine tuning to the accuracy required to meet the stringent emission specs.

[@internetpolification]

You’re correct…….very complicated. Oh for the old days…..😀

[@philroberts5537]

Just took stickers off my clocks . Never condensates again.

[@internetpolification]

Several people have said that.i might have invented a solution to a more easily solved problem! lol.

[@thebadterrorists5323]

Had to laugh when I saw that PCB. Does that look like the sort of thing that you should stick on the front of a motorcycle in the wind and rain and snow? I wonder what the expected life of that motorcycle sub assembly is? Mind you your screen will probably make it last 10 times longer than the RE accountant/designer believe it will. It's listed as £214 on the RE spares list. Maybe buy one now whilst its still avaliable and hope for future riding. Or rig up an old spinning magnet Smiths clock for Post- Apocalypse MOT's. Sorry I'll get my coat. (Oh and thats a capacitor and it isn't adjustable, even though it looks like a screw driver placement).

[@internetpolification]

Exactly! Rain, snow, salt, sleet, fog……..and two holes under it covered with yellow stickers (I’m leaving my stickers on for now until I see how the silica gel sachet works out…

[@internetpolification]

GPS speedos are cheaply available and a darned sight more accurate. I could live without the tacho and never look at it.

[@internetpolification]

My little headlamp fairing should divert most/all of rain etc away from the instruments. As would the RE screens that they sell. I bet the bike would work just fine with the entire instrument cluster disconnected. Ok, no warning lights etc. in fact, I might even try it and post a little video!