Intercooler hoses & throttle body replacement on Land Rover Freelander 2 / LR2

Full length video showing how to replace the four intercooler hoses with uprated silicone hoses on a 2009 Land Rover Freelander 2 XS.
Also includes how to remove and replace the throttle body.
The hoses often split and the throttle body gears wear. This leads to loss of power and the check engine light coming on.
Hoses available from ebay eg: British Silicone Hoses (seller “dphsport”) www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3010910053...
Mikalor clamp sizes...
- Turbo elbow hose 55-59mm & 59-63mm
- Intercooler n/s hose 59-63mm & 73-79mm
- Intercooler o/s hose 63-68mm & 73-79mm
- Throttle body hose 63-68mm x2
See my video titled “ Air intake upgrade on a Freelander 2/LR2” for a full parts list.

[@iangossip8915]

Fantastic video. You have the patience of a saint to video it and do the job at same time!

[@cornishseas6514]

Really been invaluable in helping me diagnose and fix my Freelander. Torn intercooler hose for me. Many thanks!

[@BeavisPits]

Great to hear my video was helpful!

[@snail-info]

thank you very much for this video, very complete and detailed, it allows to easily diagnose the anomalies of the parts and to be able to disassemble clean or replace. I found the problem with my FR2 now, fixed and changed the dirty and torn hose.

[@BeavisPits]

Thanks for the feedback, glad you found my video useful!

[@mobilefarmshop]

Would like to say thanks for your video. My lower intercooler to throttle body hose developed a large split. Engine management light came on displaying both reduced engine speed and DPF filter full. Although quite handy entering limp mode as soon as the Welsh 20mph zones came in. The knuckle joint is a must have for taking the bumper off as one hell of a job and four hours of frustration without one. After the car finally reset all warnings after resting overnight and a good run down the motorway doing 60mph in fourth gear to clear the DPF. This has now resulted in the car passing the MOT with no issues. The only hiccup I have had is the car temporarily entering limp mode after a harsh acceleration but I'll keep my foot a bit lighter on the gas for now.

[@BeavisPits]

Glad to hear my video was useful!

[@haydenoconnor5788]

Amazing video, super helpful. The vertical pipe under the one on the video is the one causing problems for me. There was actually some tape on it too, typical bodge job from the previous owner.

[@robinbanks183]

Another brilliant video very informative, please keep them coming *******

[@BeavisPits]

Thanks Robin!

[@TheBionicbone]

Great video, awesome explanation on turbo flows. Also 50 mins in about fuel filter and the thermostatic value that causes the 10 miles down the road and car start playing up. Keep these coming scott

[@BeavisPits]

Thanks for the great feedback

[@stevemainwaring7598]

Always best to screw and glue the metal throttle cogs, easy job to do once the throttle body is on the work bench, you can get the whole set up which is not expensive, or hard to fit, video certainly helps people to understand what needs doing thanks for sharing.

[@BeavisPits]

Do they do full metal replacement cogs now? I’ve seen plastic replacements but heard they don’t last long. The later throttle bodies had tougher plastic cogs in them. My factory one lasted 60k miles, but replacement now done 120k.

[@alsparker7761]

absolutly brilliant video, I have learned a lot from you. thanks

[@BeavisPits]

Thank you, glad to hear you have found my videos helpful

[@Ian-2022]

Boss video mate, I've just changed my O2 sensor which is faily easy with a set of ramps. I'm looking at upgrading these hoses as I've only done the throttle body hose. Was gonna ask for clamp sizes until I expanded your description. 👍

[@Lyn-hx4wz]

Fab very very informative and explains what my potential problem is. Excellent video really appreciate you sharing Big thanks

[@richardwallace4509]

Excellent video loved every moment

[@johnmcneight2648]

Fantastic videos thanks for the help !

[@peterrose8787]

very well presented ; i feel very well informed regards peter

[@miketaylor601]

Excellent video many thanks

[@simoncrest5354]

this is a really helpful video. i just bought a 2010 FL2 just wondered what the oily gunk was on these front hoses. This is obviously my issue too. Thanks. Assume oil on outside of hose is due to oily mist coming out of the split hose and road grime sticking to it.

[@BeavisPits]

I think the oil on mine was mostly road grime as the insides of my hoses are dry due to my oil catch can. On a standard setup, oil may leak from hose splits/joints.

[@mattavalon]

Excellent video thank you!

[@BeavisPits]

Thanks Matt!

[@stephengreen5859]

Super helpful video! Thank you so much for making this! If you have a link for buying you some coffees I'd certainly like to! Trick for removing the radiator hose holder, positioning of the clamps and recommendation for Mikalor all really great. Keep the videos coming!

[@BeavisPits]

Thanks Stephen! Glad you found the video useful!

[@MrMajoroak]

I have the same problem(s). Been trawling the Internet for clear and concise instructions to no avail .... and then stumbled across this video. Absolutely fantastic. Love the explanatory descriptions of how things work and what the purpose of them are. I thank you, Sir, for your time to put this together. I'm going to watch your other vids now! I also have a fault with the driver's door locking mechanism (apparently another common fault). Any chance of a video on replacing this as I've read it's quite difficult.

[@BeavisPits]

Thanks, not done a door lock yet, but they are a common failure on the FL2 so probably won’t be long!

[@peterrei280]

Nice video

[@ianbrown4242]

Fantastic

[@russ4972]

Fair amount of oil under their Scott. Round about the 19min mark. Good video. 👍🏻

[@BeavisPits]

Yeh, not too sure where all that is coming from. Maybe my catch can needs emptying!

[@dougzthou]

My freelander 2 suddenly started making a whooshing noise on acceleration. It also was jerky in lower revs. I put the obd2 on it, it came up with P0299 which is related to turbo etc. upon inspection, I found the top small slightly bent hose had a split in it. Gonna order one and get the car sorted tomorrow.

[@BeavisPits]

Common problem, exact same thing happened to me

[@petermorris3665]

Myself, along with probably every other FL2 owner, has had to change that hose and the throttle body. You do really wonder how much road testing LR do of their vehicles before releasing them for sale. I saw an interview recently when Gerry McGovern bragged that the new Defender was very rugged and had over a million miles of testing. To me, that is nothing at all - e.g. 10 cars at 100,000 miles each or 20 cars at 50,000 miles each. Its no wonder the new Defenders are beset with trim rattles, drivetrain, software and other problems!

[@samirdjebali2569]

nice video very informative and helpful,i need to change intercooler hose a found it difficult to tackle it from the bottom is very small space ,do you have any better Idea if there any other way to do it i have put tape around the split just now and the code P0299 gone automatically ,but i need to change that hose ASAP (VOLVO V50 2011)

[@CabrioME]

Sehr gutes Video, sehr lehrreich. Ich würde gerne an meinem 2008 HSE, alle Schläuche erneuern. Gibt es dafür ein Set?? Danke.

[@del4316]

Great video watched it all can I ask,Before changing the throttle body did you have a high pitched tone coming from the area? Also the code scanner you have are you happy with it? It seems cheap and some on fb seem to say avoid it. Thanks in advance

[@BeavisPits]

A very high pitched sound for around 10secs after switch off is normal. However, if it is a grating/scratching sound combined with spluttered shutdown then the gear teeth are worn and the throttle body needs renewing. I am now using an Autel AL519 wired code reader. I tried an Autel bluetooth device with limited success (I put up a video on that).

[@alexandraathay]

Hi, great video. What's the model of your code reader, and where did you buy it from please? Invaluable video information. Thanks for all your hard work 👍

[@BeavisPits]

I now use an Autel AL519 wired code reader. Very good. I tried the bluetooth AP200 but found it very troublesome and unreliable.

[@ianbywater7788]

I have the same engine in my Citroen C6. Is there a video on replacing the glow plugs?

[@BeavisPits]

I’ve not made one but you may find someone else has. I think the engine is also used in Peugeots and Ford Mondeo.

[@deathruddlesdeathruddles5438]

Hi mate, do you have a video on the catch can? Also, did the catch can reduce the amount of oil in the intercooler circuit?

[@BeavisPits]

Yes, several videos, look back though my channel and you’ll see them. The oil was completely eradicated.

[@deathruddlesdeathruddles5438]

@@BeavisPits cheers dude, I'll go through them.

[@celoguer]

great video! Where I can buy those hoses?

[@BeavisPits]

Have a look on Ebay : www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301091005313?fits=Model%3AFreelander+2&hash=item461a6c2381:g:M~wAAOxyUrZS86UZ

[@davewood4290]

Given the size issues with the silicon hoses would you recommend genuine LR hoses instead? I know silicon last longer and work out cheaper but they seem to cause problems

[@BeavisPits]

I’d always recommend silicone hoses as much stronger. Only one of the four hoses needed trimming slightly, but you will need to protect the intercooler input and output hoses from the bodywork and aircon compressor bolt heads. This applies to LR hoses too.

[@mash988]

Hi Beavis, thanks for the great video, super helpful. QQ: how much oil vapour os supposed to be flowing through these pipes normally? And when does one presumably need to clean the intercooler since its also getting clogged up?? My lower front hose is weeping oil and soiling the underpart of the engine and tray, but no discernible drop in oil level at the dipstick. Thanks!

[@BeavisPits]

Ideally there should just be fumes with no oil. As the engine gets older it will vent more oil with the blowby gases. If you are seeing oil leakage then yours is already quite bad and you should consider fitting a catch can. Not only will it clog up the intercooler but it will cake the MAP and Air Temp sensors inside the throttle body which may then misread. Sounds like your whole air intake system needs a good clean out and a catch can to remove the oil. You can vent to atmosphere but mot tester will prefer it recirculated. I’ll be doing another video on this soon.

[@mash988]

​@@BeavisPits Thanks mate appreciated. I spent the morning dismantling the Freelander. Result: pipe from air filter box to next union (where the crank(?) vent joins the pipe, dry and clean. A little oil at the above mentioned junction. Intercooler removed: quite dry and relatively clean; perhaps 1/4 teaspoon of oil total came out, cleaned and refitted. Throttle body: clean as a whistle, a very slight bit of oil around the green o-ring seal at the mating face. The pressure sensor that comes out of the throttle body: slightly wet with oil, partially clogged. Cleaned and refitted. Boost sensor (lower left hand side of intercooler, clean as a whistle! Put it all back together, runs fine.I will have to just keep an eye on that lower pipe and see what happens, as well as the fuel consumption, which has been fairly stable at around 8 L/100km average. Q: how does one know whether its just oil from the crankcase, or the turbo bearing seals busy (slowly) saying ciao? I suppose (slow or fast) drop in performance, and maybe smoke out the back, if the turbo is going? Why would oil fume level increase through the recirculator (pipe going back into the air intake)...or normally, it shouldn't and it's just slow build up? And, I'm in South Africa...an MOT tester is not bothered with those things down here (yet). Thanks for informative and thorough videos!

[@mash988]

Also, is there a crank-vent filter of some sort on the FL2, like there is in a Freelander 1?

[@MikeBarnes-it5zt]

Hi I am new to the Freelander 2 with a 2013 which is going in for a new clutch have found your videos such a big help as I’m looking to start green laying soon. Could you tell or give me or do you supply the catch can and bracket willing to pay not sure how to contact you as not the best at tech lol many thank Mike

[@BeavisPits]

Hi Mike, yes, bracket available on my website beavispits.com

[@ianjeffery3762]

i have a air hissing noise too, but mine goes when i press the brake pedal slightly... so when driving, if i touch the brake pedal too, the hissing disappears... servoboost maybe ?

[@BeavisPits]

Brake servo vacuum feed pipe or servo diaphragm split.

[@markbates4270]

I’m having the same problem Scott Where did you get your blue houses from if you don’t mind me asking

[@BeavisPits]

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301091005313

[@markbates4270]

Thank you 😊

[@dockelly6441]

His there a hose from the air cleaner to the turbo and where do you get the clamps from

[@BeavisPits]

This is a black plastic duct as standard. I have replaced mine with 70 mm diameter. Silicone hose and aluminium, straight hose joiners. The clamps are stainless steel Mikalor clamps. All from eBay.

[@alsparker7761]

Hi Beavis, found this video very interesting, I have a leak on the top left hand side of the Intercooler Pipe to Intake Manifold and noticed you have changed that, would you by any chance know what size the clamp is as I am nowhere near the vehicle and would like to change it when i am

[@BeavisPits]

All the clamp sizes are listed in the video description

[@patgoode6685]

Following this video I've found that you don't actually need the throttle body to work If the ERG delete is done, I've removed the butterfly plate from my throttle body after finding all the gears stripped. My car is running great with no issues. In fact its smoother, quieter and appears to be doing better on fuel.

[@HaggisMuncher-69-420]

Are you not at higher risk of a runaway engine?

[@JabSugarAnderson]

What diagnostic tool do you use

[@BeavisPits]

Just a cheap Maxiscan OBD2 reader off ebay, £15

[@user-ke7wv5se5e]

Were do you get all the hoses from and the catch can kit thanks

[@BeavisPits]

Have a look in the video description

[@BeavisPits]

See my video titled “Air intake upgrade on a Freelander 2/LR2” for a full parts list.

[@gt77701]

do you sell the 3d printed bracket for the oil catcher please

[@BeavisPits]

Yes, only two left and they are cast polyurethane not 3D printed. More details on my website : beavispits.com

[@VSTV1993]

Got same issue with mine, checked via OBD and throttle position is stuck at 86.67%... question is, does the new throttle body need coding into the car after replacement?

[@BeavisPits]

Some say it does but I’ve never heard of any issues after a simple swap replacement. It is just a servo motor, nothing too clever.

[@VSTV1993]

@@BeavisPits i thought so, the car should self learn anyway (thats my theory)

[@iDiveDOTtv]

oof. Fast forwarded through 8 minutes then realised I had another hour and a half to go. Normally I have to get popcorn and a cinema ticket for that length. trim it down man

[@BeavisPits]

Read the channel description. Not “How To”, more “How I did it”. Popcorn may be required.

[@YJ9868]

Dear Sir, I have a freelander 2 TD4 2010 model, it showed P2297-21 fault code, it got of smoke came out of exhaust while accelerating,does replace the oxygen sensor will solve? The fault code state bank 1 sensor 1,2 which sensor is sensor 1 ? 😅Appreciate for you kind assist🙏

[@BeavisPits]

I think there is only one oxygen sensor on the FL2 exhaust. It is up the front, above the PTU.

[@YJ9868]

Thank you for your reply Sir! So there is no oxygen sensor near the engine bay right? Only one on the exhaust ?

[@BeavisPits]

Correct!

[@mykel8309]

Hi. Can you provide all the intercooler hose that you chanced? My 2014 LR has a check engine light on, and I hear a whistling sound whenever I step on the accelerator. Can you give me a list of all the hose that you’ve change. Thank you.

[@BeavisPits]

I don’t provide the hoses, sorry. I bought them on ebay. Search for “Freelander 2 intercooler hoses”. There are four. The clip sizes are all in the video description.

[@mykel8309]

@@BeavisPits Sorry I posed the wrong question. Is there an email you can provide so I can further explain to you what I wanted to ask? Thank you.

[@BeavisPits]

If you go to my website beavispits.com you’ll see the info email address. I don’t put it on here as it will get harvested. It may be better if you join one of the FL2 facebook groups. You can then ask any questions you have and lots of experts to answer them.

[@mykel8309]

Will do. Thanks.

[@HaggisMuncher-69-420]

Am I the only one that's going to ask where you got the screwdriver with the socket built in to the handle?

[@BeavisPits]

B&Q, Magnussen socket set

[@HaggisMuncher-69-420]

@@BeavisPits Cheers mate. Looks really useful! Definitely picking some up myself.

[@MegaVinny73]

I recently replaced a split pipe, the one that attaches to the throttle body. Had to use a next day delivery Amazon special, cheap, but wasted too much time trying to get it on as not correctly sized, was too tight, but got there in the end and car back on the road. Now think another hole has develped in one of the other pipes as similar symptoms since yesterday. original hoses, Freelander 2 SD4 just hit 70k miles. Im having a problem trying to find hoses! a web search doesnt seem to be offering many options. Any known good suppliers in 2023?

[@BeavisPits]

I wouldn’t bother with cheap hoses, or even genuine LR ones, they will just split again. Fit silicone hoses. Check out Auto Silicone Hoses on ebay.

[@MegaVinny73]

@@BeavisPits Thanks for the response. Agree, cheap hoses arent a good solution, mainly as they dont fit well. I did check out Auto Silicone, but they dont seem to do a specific FL2 kit anymore. So still searching and making enquiries before Im probably forced to go OEM from a main dealer...

[@BeavisPits]

These are the ones I fitted : www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301091005313?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=f6kHjzuQQCu&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=3rl5rwijqno&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[@MegaVinny73]

@@BeavisPits Thanks again, I've contacted that seller to ask if they do a full hose kit.

[@MegaVinny73]

DPH were the only ones that seemed to do a full kit, but dont have any stock and never answer the phone. I had to go to JGS 4x4 to get the Intercooler to throttle body hoses. I ordered the turbo to intercooler hoses from MTC. Both have arrived today. The JGS supplied are Britpart and look good quality and large diameter. The MTC look decent quality, but the diameter is a few mils less than the britpart, they noticeably look physically smaller. The question - Are the turbo to intercooler hoses narrower than the intercooler to throttle body?? The ends that join the intercooler look just about the same diameter. It's the end that attaches to the metal pipe and direct to the turbo that look the smallest diameter overall. I just called Land Rover for just the turbo hose, 120 + vat, for that little hose ! Thats a reminder for why I dont use main dealers, but Im a bit stuck trying to find anyone who supplies all the hoses and that look a right fit. Is the TD4 and SD4 hose diameter the same or different as both were listed as TD4, I'd assume the same when it comes to hoses? Need a solution for this weekend before I take the front bumper off and get to work...

[@lewisbarker8942]

I've had a problem with mine losing boost when it gets warm, once I drive it steady and temp comes down abit I get boost back, but after putting my toe down it heats back up and loses boost again, have you seen this before?

[@BeavisPits]

Sounds like a faulty air temperature sensor. It may be telling the ECU the air is cold which requires less boost (denser, more oxygen). The only other thing I can think of is a hose softening when warmed up.

[@lewisbarker8942]

@@BeavisPits where is the air temp sensor or does the maf sensor do that job too, I've checked most of my hoses the easy ones to get to, need to check the rest, thanks for the info

[@BeavisPits]

It is on the side of the throttle body. The MAF sensor measures air flow. Here is a link to the air temp sensor… www.eurocarparts.com/p/fae-air-intake-temperature-sensor-423590040

[@lewisbarker8942]

@@BeavisPits thanks alot mate going to try a new one in this week

[@lewisbarker8942]

@@BeavisPits hi again mate, so I fit a new air temp sensor, it worked for a few hours the temp didn't get upto where it would cut the boost, but it's back to how it was again now, I noticed my old one was clogged my black gunk, would it be worth taking the throttle body off and give it all a clean out?

[@Dimar79]

Donde compro ese repuesto

[@BeavisPits]

The hoses and throttle body are available on eBay, Amazon, etc

[@JK-yd4fx]

How long would you say this job takes if you don't have to fiddle with a camera at the same time?

[@BeavisPits]

To replace all four hoses, plus the throttle body and removing the front bumper, it would take a novice home mechanic 3-4 hours. An experienced garage mechanic could probably do it in under an hour.

[@markpaxton1772]

Would this cause my air mass correlation fault code?

[@BeavisPits]

Possibly, but check your MAF sensor too

[@markpaxton1772]

@@BeavisPits how do I know if the Maf sensor needs changing? What value should I expect?

[@BeavisPits]

@@markpaxton1772 you’d need to read the codes…or fit another sensor and see if the issue goes away!

[@nicholaskelf5437]

You have the same problem as I have starting with a wish sound when the engine is under load, it comes and goes on idle there is no problem but the engine does shake a bit when the stop is pushed I am wondering if this shaking has damaged the air flow pipes, may be the engine mounts are also flexing.

[@nicholaskelf5437]

One other fault I have is the fuel gauge in one side of the tank has gone faulty giving strange reads under half tank I have checked the electrical connections under the rear seat as other freelander tags. I think it is giving a false read that shows I have more fuel than I actuly do so could cause you to run out !, it still showed 130 miles but the tank was almost empty when I refilled at the fuel station.

[@BeavisPits]

Check your hoses. The factory rubber hoses split very easily. If hoses are ok then sounds like your throttle body gears could be worn.

[@BeavisPits]

Sounds like a faulty sender unit. Common problem. There are two, one on each half of the saddle tank. If one fails then it can read half level. Sometime they stick though or fail 'high' and over-read. I get this sometimes under hard acceleration.

[@nicholaskelf5437]

Thanks for the info

[@boralaviagem]

Gostaria de ter somente um pouco de noção de mecânica! Ontem meu carro deu perca de performance e ele não liga mais ! Acredito que o problema seja está mangueira ! O mecânico irá verificar! Vou ficar o fim de semana sem carro😢 ---- I would just like to have a little notion of mechanics! Yesterday my car lost performance and it won't start anymore! I believe the problem is this hose! The mechanic will check! I'm going to spend the weekend without a car

[@BeavisPits]

Hope you get your car going again soon! Check the crankshaft position sensor too. A split hose won’t usually prevent the car from starting, but a faulty sensor can do. Best to read the fault codes and see what has been reported by the ECU.

[@abdulhakim-ali5215]

Please how can I get in touch with you

[@BeavisPits]

You can email me via my website, although for general advice and support, you may be better joining one of the many facebook groups and forums. Lots of experts on there who can help.

[@hamada8600]

Hello, I have a problem with the screen, the car gives me REDUCED ENGINE PERFORMANCE Engine RPM at 3

[@aybarspekmezci]

Why are you keeping this engine so dirty? This is an engine that can be washed without any problems, I also have a 2010 model, I would be very uneasy if the engine was in this condition.

[@BeavisPits]

The mud on top the engine is from off roading in deep water. I have tried to rinse it off but it is difficult to remove as baked clay. The oil on the lower half of the engine is a mystery. It isn’t coming from my engine breather or intercooler hoses as I have a catch can fitted. It may just be leaky gaskets. The car is 12 years old.

[@davemushroomshock4201]

Excellent video, I've just discovered the short hose behind the radiator is split and like you I thought it was the heater fan at first. I am curious what the purpose is of the "bagpipes" and where you sourced the replacement pipe.

[@BeavisPits]

The “pans pipes” are resonant chambers to reduce induction noise. LR scrapped them on later models. Full parts list in the video description (not this video, an earlier one).