Interior Lights Easy, Reliable & Low Cost - Detailed step-by-step tutorial

[@klaus9909]

Hey Martin, Great video - as always. Just one addition to the circuit. If you have a number of these lit cars running and switch on your layout all capacitors want to charge with the highest possible power available. Your digital system will see this as a short circuit and will turn of power straight away. To prevent this you have to put in a charging resistor to limit the power consumed while charging the capacitor. This resistor is put between the positive pole of the rectifier to the capacitor. Usually a 100 Ohm resistor is enough. Cheers, Klaus

[@johntavish8750]

Would you need a special type of resistor? Also, is there a diagram of this wiring somewhere? I'm new to this. Thanks.

Very nice video, thanks. One comment though: @3:19 and @4:39 the power pick-up spring IMHO should be placed in between the axle and the boogie, rather than under the axle as it is shown here. You remove simply one of the wheels, then insert the pick up spiring and then you refit the wheels. Thus the wheels keep the spring in position. You do not need any glue.

[@pascalkeller516]

Hello, when you glue some passengers with fastsetglue, do not close the car immediatly. If you do, some emanations from the glue will change the color of the plastic windows... (that becomes yellow ...personnal experience...) let the car open a night and that will be OK. Thank you for your beatutiful tutorials ! Regards Pascal

[@eentoffenaam]

Pascal Keller True, also my experience. I found that glue, used for foto’s works just as well to glue passengers in the cars. And it is easier to remove the glue if you want to change it later on.

[@2H80vids]

Good tip, thank you.👌👍

[@2H80vids]

@@eentoffenaam Another good tip, thank you too.👍👌

[@nepomucen111]

If you have such emanations from glue you can try to put some glossy garnish on them (thin layer). It can help. You can check with just water, if it would help (putting some water on that window should help for a moment - if it does, than gloss garnish will also help - permanently).

[@lellopesce]

Another product is Museum Wax, which is used by museums to secure items. Hearst Castle uses that, being in the middle of California and its earthquakes.

[@tomcook5813]

Greetings from the USA 😀, my family came from Sweden in the 1800s, family name was Solberg and Tiderman.

[@jeffrigden4790]

One of the most entertaining youtubers I have ever seen. So jolly , and incredibly talented. Love your videos Martin, keep up your wonderful work.

[@dave1001]

Your voice is so relaxing i fell asleep. had to watch again

[@filipthetrainguy4723]

LOL XD

[@EtonieE25]

😆😆😆😆😆👍

[@thefuzz4447]

That happened to me too.. 🤗

[@maurits1232]

Hi Martin, Thanks for your great tutorials. Helps me advance quick in this hobby. After ordering (and waiting for delivery) the components, I already equiped two cars with interior lights. Works perfect! Kind regards, Maurits

[@Ander1200]

Super was es heute zu Tage für Möglichkeiten von den Herstellern gibt das hatte ich in den 70er 80er nicht, naja das ist halt der Fortschritt 👍 ich benutze auch immer Sekundenkleber um die LEDs zu befestigen denn der tape löst sich nach einiger Zeit.

[@stormbowman7148]

If you use the Noch "Hin und Weg-Kleber" you can move the passengers around, and it is also strong enough to keep the light strip in place. The benefit is that you can remove everything and no permanent damage is done to the coach.

[@shanestrains4724]

This actually works! I've used this method to add interior lighting to a couple of caboose on my layout. I used 2 3v nano LED's with a 420 ohm resistor on each LED. Works like a charm. I don't have any issues powering up the layout as some suggested might happen either without an additional resistor on the capacitor. The hardest part was getting my Trueline Caboose apart and back together again. Thanks for posting the video brother. 👍

[@allenkotlan3606]

Beautiful and you make it look so easy. I'm excited to get to that task as soon as I can - so many other things to build.

[@edmundmaier2273]

Great tutorial Martin!! Could you please tell me what is the model number for the pick-up shoe which is not shown in the video? Do I need only one spring and pick-up shoe for the entire passenger cars? With the couplings the positive is fed to all other passenger cars and on each passenger car would I need to mount a spring, bridge rectifier, capacitor, resistors and led strips? Could you please give details on the bridge rectifier which is required? Million Thanks!

[@OwenMcMurchy-s1y]

I had a go at it and yes the lights work fine. Great video

[@leonardosouza6290]

So, thanks for all your vídeos. May you repeat this video helping DC curent users,

[@mundolivre-l9z]

I love this channel, I have learned a lot from it. Very cool

[@RailserveJohn]

Brilliant! This could not have come at a better time as I was trying to find a way to light some Passenger car kits I am finishing up.... I’d like to say thank you very much! I have followed your instructions and have perfectly lit/zero flicker cars! I love your videos, can’t to see what’s next! Best regards from Florida, John

[@gandalaress]

With a cheap Functional-Decoder (TAMS for e.g.) there's no need to use resistors to reduce brightness, just programm it. And it'd be switchable. Also the rear-lights could follow the direction and turn automatically off while driving backwards.

[@lyndonfoster1090]

Can I get info on the magnetic coupling from Hogg? I would like to see if i can find it in the US. Great channel thank you. will you do one on battery power and dead rail one day?

[@paulredding5864]

This is great and covers some details I had wondered about when I did my first carriages. I agree on reducing the wire thickness and its good to hear which LEDs and resistors you used, as well as the coupling systems. The finishing touch on the taillamps was perfect. Thanks

[@mikewest3108]

Really good looking. Perhaps winding the wire routed underneath the wheels into a tight coils like old telephone cords would resolve the problem of slack in the wires and still allow trucks to move freely.

[@francescoorlandi7877]

Hello Martin and keep going. Would you put a link for the small preassembled red led for the tail lights? And please keep an eye for 2 rails fans too....

[@bowlinggreenoil]

I kept waiting for the Easy part. Thanks

[@lowman5000]

Hi Marklin. I've recently gotten in to model building and painting with a strong focus (currently) on Star Wars models. I'm a recent subscriber and your videos are so fun to watch and learn from and that's predominantly because of your infectious energy, your presentation, and obvious love for the medium. I'm about to start designing my first (small) diorama for an AT-ST walker that I built, painted, and weathered recently and will be using techniques from your videos to help develop the project. Thanks for being a little source of happiness and positive energy in these strange and crazy pandemic times. :-)

[@jonathanboswall4703]

Hi Martin, thank you for doing this great video. That’s my next job for my layout. Regards Jonathan

[@magnificus8581]

Thank you for also showing how to do it on 2 rail systems!

[@jacquesjl5028]

Great video. Please can you provide the caracteristics of the bridge rectifier ?

[@marklinofsweden]

Bridge Rectifier, 600 V, 1 A, RND Components. Distrelec Article Number: 301-13-444. Price: €0.059/ea

[@jacquesjl5028]

@@marklinofsweden thanks a lot from Barcelona

[@Evil_107]

Yet another great tutorial, saving this one for reference!

[@eBiCrafter]

awesome, thanks for sharing martin, i always enjoy watching your video, always inspire me, for my content

[@mariner3485]

Good video! I found a similar recipe for lighting a few years ago on the internet. I use double-sided foam tape between the LED light strip and the roof because the LED light strip can generate some heat => i don't want the roof plastic to melt or get soft if it gets hot.

[@DjFlug26]

Hello Martin, the video is really great. I'm considering whether I should do the same for a few cars, especially Roco cars that I own.

[@fugubarakun4907]

I'd really like more information about those Hogg couplers. I'm not able to find anything out about them with just a search.

[@steveksi]

Nice. The more expensive LED strips have 3M tape on the back. I have used these in many many Jewelry displays over the years, NEVER had any come loose. It is important to clean the surface with Alcohol or the likes to clean off the grease. I generally mount them on Aluminium Flat bar, usually 10mm wide by 1.5mm thick. for commercial applications, for cooling.

[@julioabreudossantosneves7226]

Nice explanation and wonderful result. Thanks a lot!

[@garethdavies8673]

A really great and interesting video. Thank you

[@JoeyBPhotography]

This is a great tutorial! Makes me want to get some coaches solely for the purpose of lighting them!

[@tomatoes3]

Great video, well explained.

[@b.liesch5643]

Hey martin, Great tutorial again. Great job. Good idea. Mos, you are the best!

Cool. One thing one might consider as an improvement is to control the LEDs with a microcontroller and use PWM instead of resistors. This will reduce power consumption and increase the time car lights survive an outage. It would also enable the ability to use blinking taillights. Adding an ambient light detector or even a decoder would make it even more fun.

[@jamesfisher4326]

The circuit as described will draw less than 1 ma once the capacitor is charged. It hardly seems that it is any real advantage to use more sophisticated electronics to improve efficiency. It might be an improvement to add a 100 to 500 ohm resistor before the capacitor to reduce the inrush current when power is turned on.

[@christoswanepoel519]

Hi, I am new to Marklin and building my layout. What is LED microcontroller and PWM. Can you help me with a link or where to buy. Thanks Christo

[@bruceclark394]

Hello Martin. Love this video. Watched it several times as I try adding lighting effects. Question please; how can you add electrical couplers to a Marklin 4167 coach. Many of coaches like this one have an unusual coupler fitted the I’m having problems finding a coupler to replace it with. Can you please help. Thanks.

[@somsommer6364]

Great video again! I have this set myself so if I ever want to put the ligths in, I know what to do.

[@manfredwitzany2233]

Thank you for ths good viedeo. It is very informative. According to the LED strip it is recommended to clean the inside of the roof with ethanol. With this preparation the self adhesive strip well adheres to the roof without additional glue.

[@pwissink1]

Once again, a very good tutorial! Thx Martin.

[@chazco]

Looks great. Instead of a CA glue could you have used a tacky glue to glue the passengers? Then you could move them around occasionally to change the look.

[@herricmountain]

What is the difference between the Mârklin 72020 coupler and the one you are using in the videos? The reason I am asking is that my usual supplier seem to only carry the 72020 Coupler. Great and very informative video by the way.

[@mignatrain9928]

Hi, you can put the ground contact under the wheels. With this method, there is no glue. It's more practical when u need to change the wheels or the contacts.

[@marklinofsweden]

Hi! No, assembling spring contacts under the wheels will restrict movement of the cable coming from the conductive coupling. I can’t recommend that.

[@nepomucen111]

@@marklinofsweden You should put that cable into the car, put (through the toilet) up under the roof and have no cables under the car. The same for cable from buggy contact. That way you will not block the movement of buggy at all. With your solution the movement can be limited.

[@crazymanbbqcompany1592]

Always good to see you and your tutorials.. Hope the new year has been good to you... Bob Cooney 😊👍

[@crazymanbbqcompany1592]

HELLO MY FRIEND... HAPPY FATHER'S DAY TO YOU... GREAT VIDEO AND TUTORIAL...THANK YOU FOR YOUR EXPERTISE.... MAY YOU HAVE A WONDERFUL TIME WITH YOUR FAMILY... BOB COONEY

[@gerhardvanwyk1641]

It would be great to see how to fit a relay and use the DCC function output to turn the lights on or off. But abso;utely great video. Greetings from South Africa!!

[@ieieee447]

You are so skilled!

[@5horizonsrr280]

Excellent tutorial! I am curious how you handle multiple coaches with one pickup shoe and ground spring- just run the 2 pole connection from car to car, or does the actual circuit need to change for the increase in overall LEDs?

[@FirstLastOne]

GOOD MAN!!! Using 60/40 solder is the only way to go! Greta Inc. can go take a long walk off a very short pier.

[@jeffreyvdl1177]

I want 3 wagons with light, every wagon needs a bridge rectifier and capacitor or just 1 wagon? regards

[@marklinofsweden]

Every wagon.

[@kolabuzlu]

Hi. Thanks for great video! I’ll start doing all my wagons. My question, to reduce inrush current, do I need to add 100 Ohm resistor between input of bridge and ground wire? Or, between + side of bridge and capacitor? Which is better? Can you help? Regards.

[@valborchardt3596]

Thank you Martin, very interesting as always. Please do take care and be safe

[@Weesel71]

Very well done. Even I can understand it. :)

[@paulhare662]

Nicely explained. One question though, where did you put the little wheel chairs for all those paraplegic passengers?

[@dtormoh]

Very good job, congratulations!!!!

[@mrspockmm8741]

Really enjoyable and clear instructions to follow.

[@theotomingasnaf63]

How about doing a tutorial for how to get started with the Marklin model railway?

[@yevgenykushnir1200]

Martin, thank you for this. I have rewatched this multiple times in recent months, and this inspired a coach lighting project of my own (modern European 2-rail, mostly Roco). Question....how did you determine the 10K Ohm as the resistor value? I know the basic formula for resistance, but what are the values?? I assume Marklin MFX puts the same voltage on the rails as other DCC systems (28 volts) and a warm white LED is rated at 0.0025 Amps (I think)....correct? I'm currently trying 12-20V DC, and with a 4.7K ohm resistor, the light seems too dim (and only really seen in complete darkness). Another question, how do you get the capacitor to keep the lights on for 10-12 seconds? I'm using 1000 or 2200 mF 25V capacitors, and the lights gradually die off over 5-7 seconds. Logically, they should stay on for longer than yours. Is there a specific to wire them into the circuit? Have been greatly enjoying your videos over the course of the pandemic! Looking forward to becoming a Patreon soon!! :)

[@filipthetrainguy4723]

Everithyng about your'e chanel Is amazing!!!!!

[@mickev2009]

Good tutorial. I usually use Tacky wax for my passenger figures.

[@richardirwin1703]

I have found the information great I was wondering how or even if k track fitted and you showed it did not sure how to get power and you also said they haven't made m track for twenty years so that was good to know and that flexible track also fits up

[@9501599]

Another informative video, I enjoyed this as I am thinking about lighting up my passenger coaches. Cheers

[@francoislabbe7751]

If you have a passenger train with current conducting couplers and a common pick up shoe, do you need the electronics (capacitor and rectifier) for each car, or will one be sufficient for the entire train?

[@jeanpierreragequit1726]

perfect & awesome !!! great job !!!!

[@antoinebesnehard]

Hi Martin! Nice video, thanks. Just a little suggestion: instead of glueing the copper springs to take the current under the bogie, why not first take the wheels of, then place the springs without glueing and put the wheels back? That's what I do on all my (2 rails DCC) cars and it works perfect. Since I don't have Marklin rolling stock, I use generic metal springs I buy on eBay, but the principle is the same I guess.

[@ulrikhansen6432]

The way to do it 😁

[@peterstecks7660]

Excellent as usual Martin.1/2 a drop of glue for the LED strips, and 1/4 drop for the micro LEDs... How on earth do you get a quarter of a drop... ;) You are a natural Martin. Cheers.

[@tomzethof4099]

Nice to see and helpfull

[@christoswanepoel519]

Hi Martin, great video. For a set of coaches, must all the coaches have the marklin 72050 and I assume the current from the pick-up shoe goes through the current conducting couplers. So if I have 6 coaches = 1 x pick-up shoe and 6 x 72050 and 5 x E115737 couplings

[@JonatanGronoset]

Very nice, I'll forward this to my model rail buddies. Märklin could need some simplification in the lighting department!

[@marklinofsweden]

For sure!

[@carlosfabian6870]

Muy bueno sus videos, %100 Hobby muy lindo, saludos desde Uruguay

[@jamesmadder306]

What bridge rectifier did you use?I haven’t seen anything like it. Can you give details to find it? What do you recommend with older stock that does not have NEM pockets?

[@marklinofsweden]

Hi! There are lots of rectifiers like this one. Here’s one example: www.elfa.se/en/glass-passivated-bridge-rectifier-smd-1a-200v-dfs-vishay-df02s-e3-77/p/30152181?ext_cid=shgooaqsesv-Shopping-PerformanceMax-CSS&&cq_src=google_ads&cq_cmp=18208288444&cq_con=&cq_term=&cq_med=pla&cq_plac=&cq_net=x&cq_pos=&cq_plt=gp&gclsrc=aw.ds&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuJqR9Yyo-wIVEeuyCh2niAqgEAQYASABEgJNlvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[@Sampath_Reddy]

Hey martin i have doubt how you maken the train and track please put a video of how to make train and track

[@tm2620]

Thx for the Vid !!! It helped me a lot . But won't the led's melt the roof since they heat up ?

[@marklinofsweden]

Hi! Thanx! No, the LEDs will not get warm at all. They are only powered with

[@JHNielson4851]

The two 10K resistors he put in series with the LEDs reduce not only the light level but also the amount of heat they generate.

[@tm2620]

Ok, thanks guys.

[@Kapparie]

4:30 you should infact install the contact spring "fingers" under the wheelaxles, not above them (seen from bottomview perspective) and then you don't need glue at all, because it will keep the spring in place by the wheelaxles pressing to the bottom of the bogie.

[@marklinofsweden]

Hi! This question has already been answered. No. The placement is an active choise based on experience

[@eugeneg68]

As always, it is very intelligible and interesting.

[@the_clockwork_jackass6897]

I think it may be cool to have certain areas that are rocky or rundown where lighted cars would intentionally flicker. I thought you might be able to do this with a microswitch (normally closed) in the car and a piece of piano wire (very stiff) bent into a corrugated/serrated form that would hit the microswitch and cause the lights to pulse on and off making the appearance of a bad connection due to rust and dirt buildup

[@edhendrix6848]

Hi Martin , Great video! Ik wched IT serval Times , what i don't onderstand: what do you need to fit in the other cars when using the power guiding kopplings? Does every car need the electronic componants such as the bridge rectifior and the cappasatator? Best regards Ed 🇳🇱

[@dcctrain]

Very nice!

[@alejandrobernal2336]

Puedes hacer el mismo ejercicio pero con un vagón de corriente continua por favor... Gracias y saludos 🙂

[@frederickv3842]

Hello, can i use 10kOhm 2watt for the resistors? Thank you. I love all your video’s! Regards from Belgium!

[@Georges-MILLION]

Bonsoir Martin . Je ne comprends pas pourquoi vous mettez deux résistances de 10 K ? Une seule de 20 K suffirait ? Non ? Merci pour votre réponse . Good evening Martin. I don't understand why you put two 10 K resistors? A single 20 K would be enough? No ? Thank you for your reply .

[@THEINSANESOCIETY]

Please identify Fleischmann coupling model number at 5:26

[@smili82]

That's because he said it was easy. I don't even want to see the difficult .. lol Good content!!

[@normanrowe2831]

Hello. Interesting and informative, as always.,

[@jontaylor1652]

Good stuff, very interesting.

[@sfin01as]

Vielen Dank! Eine tolle Idee!

[@timfaszbender7226]

Nice video but 2 things I don't understand. 1: you glue the spring in the boogie, but when you take out the wheels of the boogie, you can put the spring in the boogie and then put the wheels back. No glue is needed than. The spring fit in the boogie and with the weels above, the spring can't move. 2: both side's of the car have a hole, but you decide to pull the cables under the coach. But isn't it better to put the cables through the closest boogie hole and pull the cable under the interior of the car. The cables are then completely invisible. Marklin has also the sets 72020 and 72021. With the parts in the set you don't have to solder a wire on the koppeling

[@marklinofsweden]

Hi Tim! In response to your questions: 1) Ok. Yes, I realise that is the purpose. However. Mounting under wheel axels restrict the movement of the cables coming from the conductive coupling. 2) In most cars there are no, and then I mean NO room for a cable, not even a 0.5mm cable. If you root the cable through the first hole, you will not be able to snap the car together again. Okay.. This car may work, but any better detailed Märklin car, Brawa, Roco or other brand will for sure require cable rooting under the car.

[@marklinofsweden]

The price of the set is x10 the price for the entire installation described in the video + leaves you with flickering light och low overall performance.

[@timfaszbender7226]

@@marklinofsweden thanks for response. In my marklin cars, I have put the wire under the interior, and no problems with the cars. I also have made my interior light with low coast.

[@gregabregar4105]

Hello, what kind of bridge rectifier do you use? I am trying to make a white/red lights on my Roco commuter control cab coach. I have 12V LED diodes, 3 white, 2 red. I am going to swich between the lights via a dumb three-position switch. I know it's a bit rudimentary, but I keep it simple. I use digital.

[@danielvanmieghem1091]

Nice job there, again ... Perhaps if I can add a hint for future projects, I would suggest using a function decoder for digital layouts, so you can switch the lights on/off using the digital controller. That works wonders and in some cases even adds possibility to dim the lights and switch rear signal lights separately. Great stuff, man !

[@roulernbleu4532]

That's what I was wondering. The track is DCC right? I have digital Trix and I don't get anything out from the passenger coach lights without decoder. 🧐

[@jean-mariewilhelm3649]

Great advice. Thanks Martin.

[@martijnkoken3185]

Great videos you have, thank you! How much time do you spend on the hobby? Amazing

[@MrFreddie5150]

Do you have a link to the magnetic couplings for the electronics? :)

[@dutchaus5813]

Fredrick, I have the same question! I have tried searching for them everywhere! I want to use them in a car diorama so I can have a removable roof with the lights still installed.

[@abdonhernandez3177]

Gracias por tus admirables consejos!

[@ErzgebirgsMoBaHO]

Sehr schönes Video was du hier gezeigt hast, hat mir sehr gut gefallen. Meine Wagons muss ich auch noch alle mit Licht versorgen. Was ich bei deiner Umsetzung nicht so gut finde, das die Wagons immer leuchten. Aber so ist es natürlich die schnellste und günstigste Variante die absolut super ist. LG Tino

[@DCCTRAINPlus]

Great video. Please provide LED manufacture and product number.

[@marklinofsweden]

It varies. On Wish you never get the same item from one purchase to antoher.. mixed China..

[@TheTrainFreak]

Those cars look great. I will have to see if I can find a way to do that with my Walther's Classic Heavyweights set. They already have the contacts installed and light kits that can be bought but I'm not impressed with those, only thing is the roof is what is removable from the car before the interiors so having to find a way to suspend them might be tricky. If you have thoughts on that, let me know please!

[@customwoodworketc1046]

Nice job

[@lungocicorneliu1119]

Nice video !