Interlocking Weather-stripping Installation.mov

[@stevensilverman3950]

I am an interlocking weatherstrip specialist over 40 years experience in Los Angeles . Nice job.

[@solararch2001]

Dear Mr. Muller, Thank you so much for making this wonderful video. This resource will hopefully help save many old, high quality, wood windows from being thrown away, by well meaning folks who tear them out and replace them with inferior, disposable replacement windows. You've done a great service for all!

[@MartinJMuller]

My pleasure. My goal (company motto) is to keep our original window out of the landfill. Whether I do it or someone else makes no difference to me. By sharing this knowledge I contribute to saving a lot more windows than I can do on my own. So kudos to all the homeowners who only needed a little information to do the right thing!

[@JaminRak]

@@MartinJMuller I'm doing this in a 110yr old renovation but the company you noted at the end of your video is out of business. Do you recommend another company?

[@MartinJMuller]

@@JaminRak Yes, alas Accurate has gone out of business. You can order the materials you need through Kilian Hardware in Philadelphia, the following url will take you directly to their weather-strip page on their website: kilianhardware.com/jamweatretfl.html Remember that the zinc weather-strip is much cheaper than the bronze version.

[@JaminRak]

@@MartinJMuller what are your thoughts on spring bronze for window weatherstripping?

[@MartinJMuller]

@@JaminRak I am not a fan. I often see nail heads that have worked their way out of the wood and are pulling splinters or chunks of wood from the side of the sash. You need to bend over the top and bottom ends to prevent them from slicing the wood. And finally, the manufacturer stipulates you have to put nails every inch of the length of the strip. That is a whole lot of pounding on old wood right next to the dado where the (typically) 3/4" thick jamb is only 3/8" thick and easy to split. The rib strips of the interlocking weather-stripping on the other hand require 2 - 3 nails.

[@brettberry8044]

This video is exactly what I need to retrofit my double hung windows with weatherstrip. Thank you for sharing!

[@iowolf]

Wonderful instructions, I called a few weeks back, got my materials and will make a start this week! Thanks!

[@59seank]

Great video! It's nice to see old windows being restored.

[@mickelzuidhoek1763]

Great video... I am pricing a historical window restoration this looks wonderful!

[@josephlightfoot2463]

Accurate Metal Weatherstripping has been brought back into production by Legacy Manufacturing. After Accurate closed its doors, Legacy came in and purchased the business and the machines to keep the line of interlocking metal seals in production. Their catalog can be found at www.accurateweatherstrip.com

[@dmike1379]

Thank You this is exactly the information I was looking for.

[@thedoc-eh7yj]

Thanks so much for this video. It answered a lot of my questions. I have some sash cord to replace, and in a couple of windows the upper sash won't close all the way. My windows had this kind of weatherstrip already installed when I bought the house. Unfortunately they used a lot more nails, so I'll need some care getting them out in good enough condition to reuse. I'm hoping that I can work a putty knife in behind the weatherstrip once the window stop is out. If I can coax the nail out just a bit that way, I can grab the head with my nice Greenlee 515 nail puller. Or maybe I can use the Greenlee in its regular way. That will dent the metal a bit, but perhaps that won't matter; the dents won't protrude into the channel the sash slides in. The window you use in the video seems to have a lower sash that is taller than the upper one. This allows you to install the upper sash after all of its weatherstrip is in place. In a house like mine that has upper and lower sashes of equal height, that method won't work, will it? I think the method you used on the lower sash will work for the upper sash as well, but the parting bead will have to go in after the upper sash's weatherstrip. For just changing out a set of sash cords, I don't see a reason to remove the weatherstrip of the upper sash. Any comments you have on these ideas would be gratefully received.

[@MartinJMuller]

the.doc I hope this reply reaches you in time. I didn't get to my computer till the end of the day, just now. Another way to detach a section of weather-stripping is to use a nail set (does Greenlee make one ;)) and drive the nails through the zinc weather-strip. But if too much force is needed you may damage the underlying wood (break it). Remember that you only have to remove one vertical section of weather-stripping per sash in order to be able to remove the sash. You are correct that in a window that has (almost) equal-height sashes the installation/removal of the upper sash is a bit more complicated. Like you said, the weather-strip has to be placed in its track before the parting bead goes back in place. I typically leave that last section of weather-strip loose until the parting bead is in place and then nail the weather-stripping in place (after test fitting to make sure everything works). I don't quite understand your penultimate paragraph. If you want to replace the cord on the upper sash (in equals-sized sashes) you do have to remove one vertical section of the weather-stripping for the upper sash. But only that one, if that's what you mean. The rest (top and other side) can remain in place. Hope this wasn't too late. Good luck. Martin Muller

[@thedoc-eh7yj]

I think I'll need to take out the weatherstrip on both sides of the lower sash in order to get access to the weight pockets. You can bet that I won't use so many nails when I put it back. That's a good idea to put in the parting bead before nailing in the weatherstrip for the upper sash. That way the weatherstrip can float into its natural position before being fastened down. You're right that I'll have to take out the weatherstrip on one side of the upper sash. I was thinking only of access to the weight pockets. Of course I'll have to take out the sash in order to replace the cord. Duh! Just a guess here, but I'm thinking that it should be the left side since I'm right handed. Thanks again for all your great help. BTW I really like the rat-a-tat parts of your video when you're driving nails.

[@MartinJMuller]

The rat-a-tat was a funny by-product of speeding the video up. I kind of like it too. Amazed at how regular it is... Yes, obviously you do need to remove both vertical weather-strips of the lower sash to access the weights (unless the weight pocket access is in the outer track (for the upper sash)). My preference is to remove the right hand strip. With the sash in place I find it easier to reach the right hand nails. But it really doesn't matter. However, if you are working with weather-stripping installed by a right handed installer, especially on the lower sash, you may find that the right hand side was installed last (the nails are more easily reached). In which case you will want to start with that side. It makes life easier. Thank you for the questions and feedback. It pleases me no end that people from all over the country are using this resource to save original windows. Martin

[@thedoc-eh7yj]

I'm back, having gotten two windows done while I was there. I think that, in the process, I found every mistake that a person can make while doing that job. My weatherstrip is aluminum rather than zinc. The nails holding it in seem to be galvanized; I didn't see any signs of corrosion, probably because water doesn't reach them. I was able to pull enough of them while keeping them straight that I had plenty of nails to put the weatherstrip back. I have questions about the nails holding the sash cord to the sashes: in the video you use several small nails on each side; what I found in my windows was what looks like one drywall nail on each side (at 1.25 inches long they look considerably larger than your nails). Can you tell me what size nails you use? Your nails look like they have a white coating on them; are they siding nails? Somewhere I read an instruction to use a copper nail for this. I'm thinking that stainless steel would be just as good. Thanks again. I'm looking forward to getting back to the house and fixing some more windows.

[@MartinJMuller]

The.doc, I use 1" panel nails (hence the white appearance in the video; good spot!). I'm not too worried about these nails corroding/rusting since, like you said, water doesn't typically get in that space (unlike when a window is accidentally left open and the weather-stripping gets wet). I typically use two nails to hold the sash cord to the side of the sash inside the rope slot next to the weather-stripping groove. One about 1/2" above the knot hole, the second another inch higher. A third nail is used to fasten the loose end of the sash cord inside the knot hole to make absolutely sure the cord cannot interfere with the weather-stripping rib. This one doesn't really carry the weight of the sash. If the sash is heavy (more than 30 pounds) you can use a third nail to fasten the cord with, but make sure the top nail is not so high that it interferes with the cord's ability to go through the pulley when the upper sash is raised to the fully-closed position. One last warning: if you use too long a nail inside the knot hole and you go through the stile watch out the tip of the nail doesn't hit the glass... For obvious reasons. Good luck with the remaining windows.

[@organsnyder]

Extremely helpful. Also, I'm impressed with the video quality and editing - much better than most other howto videos. I hope to reach your speed level eventually. :-)

[@TamaraInCyberspace]

Thank you for this detailed video. My 1930s windows have originally installed interlocking weatherstripping, though an odd variety called Athey which includes cloth/felt lined zinc channels inset into the sides of the stiles and the bottom and top rails instead of just plain channels cut into the wood. This video has been very valuable however in understanding how to take apart my windows and how to align things when it goes back together. Do you have any knowledge of the Athey system? I'm trying to figure out how the channels are attached into the grooves in the sash, there are no nails and it is tighter than just tension so I think they are glued. I'd like to take out a channel to do some more detailed repairs but sadly I don't think I could salvage the wood or the channel if I pulled it out.

[@MartinJMuller]

TamaraKnits, Unfortunately I am not familiar with the Athey system. Consequently I do not know how the channel strips are attached. I checked Steve Jordan's Window Sash Bible. On page 93 he mentions the Athey system, but unfortunately does not provide the information you seek. It might be worth contacting Steve and asking him. He can be reached at: [e-mail] Martin Muller

[@PrestoSign]

Great video thanks from sharing! I found it very helpful.

[@ellishilton8091]

Thanks for such careful and thoughtful instruction and production, Martin. I "only" have 20 such windows to restore in our 130 year old NJ house. I'd welcome your guidance. (A) The sashes are sufficiently thick that I plan to rout out the beds to accommodate double pane, low E glass. (B) Prepping for painting inside & out -- I plan to do as much of the sanding and priming as possible while each sash is out of the frame. (C) Insulating the counterweight pockets -- It would seem that the only way to get at these spaces properly is to remove the side casings. Thoughts? I understand that fiberglass batt insulation is easier to control than foam, but loses much of its R value when compressed. (D) Storms -- We already have triple-track storms, which seem to be at least 50 years old. (We've lived here over 30 years.) They need selective work anyway. This seems to be a great opportunity to make wholesale corrections. What are the pros & cons of (i) keeping these as is with selective repairs [the least expensive choice]; (ii) replace only the sash units (frames and upgraded glass); (iii) full replacement; vs. (iv) complete removal [the best aesthetic choice but the least energy efficient]?

[@MartinJMuller]

Mr. Hilton, I will give you some quick and dirty answers here. If you want a more complete reply, I suggest we talk on the phone. Forgive my rather blunt replies. What can I say? I'm Dutch. My wife regularly tells me "you can't say that!" to which I give the standard Dutch reply: "but it's true, isn't it?" Apologies up front if I offend you in any way. Regarding A: Insulated glass units for the residential market typically come with a ten year warranty (on the seal between the layers of glass). There's a reason for that. By adding insulated glass units (IGUs) you roughly double the weight of the sash. Original sashes typically are not built for that kind of weight. You also need to upgrade the counter weights inside the wall (but see C). When the weights become as tall as the sash (there usually is not enough room to make the weights "fatter" so increasing their height/length is your only option) you start losing throw of the sashes (how far you can open them). And this is just the tip of the iceberg of issues you may be creating. I usually get involved when people have discovered all these drawbacks and want to return to the original single pane. After wasting a good deal of money and resources. B: As long as you don't get paint on the friction surfaces. I highly recommend starting with an oil-based primer. Adheres to wood so much better than any water-based product. I don't care what they say about oil-based paint technology not having received the benefit of as much research as the water-based products have in recent years. Until we have a couple of centuries experience with these new products, the oil-based products has the new stuff beat. You can finish with any product you want (but avoid "elastomeric" you nick that stuff and the whole layer peels of in one big sheet...). Just make sure the primer sticks to the wood. Yes, oil-based is less environmentally friendly but consider that the oil-based product is likely to last four times longer than the water-based product (roughly in our Pacific Northwest climate; I don't know if this holds true for NJ). C: How much energy are you hoping to save? Ten cents per year (per window)? If you have cold air coming in through the pulley the best thing you can do is inspect the caulking between the exterior trim and siding/sill. I do not see getting rid of the tried-and-true sash cord, pulley, and counter weight system listed in your plans (and I don't recommend it because the new systems with springs are all, again, built to last an average of ten years). Sash cord typically (if it's not painted) will last 50 years or more (chain, if your windows were originally designed with it, indefinitely). So adding insulation will interfere with the counter weight operation. I've encountered counter weights protected from interfering with small amounts of insulating material inside weight pockets by placing a tube inside the pocket that the weights travel up and down in. If the cord breaks you have to take everything apart to fish the weight out of the b bottom of that tube... And all for tiny savings. Caulking gaps and getting better insulating drapes/blinds will do more than any insulation of weight pockets. D: Keeping what you have, if you can live with its aesthetics, is the greenest option. And if you have storms, why bother with IGUs? How much more energy will you save by going for a third layer of glass? For a great primer on whether Low-E coatings are appropriate for your situation (if you decide to have it applied to your storm window for instance), please see "Are Low-E windows suitable for all climates?" in The Balance, by engineer Juan Rodriguez: www.thebalancesmb.com/enhanced-energy-efficiency-844401 I hope you find at least some of this helpful.

[@ellishilton8091]

@@MartinJMuller Thanks so much for your VERY HELPFUL insights and candor. I like to think I know what I don't know, but you've corrected more than a few blind spots. I'm glad I asked and glad I found you to ask. The counterweight question is a great case in point. For what it's worth, I've already paid for one unit's worth of the replacement glass for the wooden sashes as a test case, but haven't tackled the install yet. I expect I'll call this a sunk cost and go directly to ... Plan B -- have the wood sashes restored leaving the original glass intact. This mostly amounts to adding interlocking weatherstripping -- there is none at all now -- and insulation. I also plan to focus on the old storm windows. That may only mean maintaining the existing storm sashes. I suspect that outright replacement might be the better choice. I have more research to do now. Insulating the weight pockets -- If and only if there's sufficient space, my current plan is to line the exterior face of the pocket with rigid foam and caulk it into place IF ANYTHING. The idea of removing the side casings on twenty windows (many of which are triple unit bay windows where imperfections after reinstallation will be obvious) is daunting. I'm inclined to take your advice and leave well enough alone. The time to have insulated these pockets was 130 years ago. Low-E glass -- I'm now planning to use low-E glass only on the south & west facing storms. I'll use Juan Rodriguez' article in that quest.

[@xXMJHarvey89Xx]

Thank you again for posting this content. I recently became a wood window restoration contractor and Theres still plenty i need to learn. In regards to making the grooves for the mating rail weatherstrip and hand planer how were you able to butt it up agains the metal and not mar up the metal. The hand planers i looked ar have the blade sticking out on both sides of the plate almost an 1/8"? Thank you again

[@MartinJMuller]

Mr. Harvey, because of the problem you mentioned I have stopped using this method. I've switched to a Stanley No.78 Duplex Rabbet Plane. I just haven't had a chance to update the video. Hope this helps.

[@xXMJHarvey89Xx]

@@MartinJMuller Thank you for getting back to me so quickly. I ended up returning my makita planer and bought the Stanley 78 like you suggested.

[@iksnyzrog]

First of all, thank you for the time and effort you put into this demonstration. Many other videos gloss over the weather-stripping portion of an old window restoration. Secondly, I am beyond impressed at the quality of your video. 10 years later and you'd never know if not for the upload date. I am early in the process of restoring our 1920s double hung windows. I've done one window so far and have removed all paint in the window jamb and on the windows themselves.. A LOT of work.. Any tips on removing paint? I've been scraping everything, but I've heard of people using heat guns and or solvents to remove paint. Our paint is hot for lead, but I am taking proper precautions. Also, our windows were built without pocket covers and I've had to cut my own. Any reasons you know of why a builder wouldn't include pocket covers? Is it a sign of cheaper construction? Thank you!

[@MartinJMuller]

B1ack_Raven. Thank you for the kind words. I am glad to read you are taking proper precautions protecting yourself and any other people in the home from lead-containing dust. It's nasty stuff. Yes, removing all the original/old paint is a lot of work. I typically only remove the paint from the friction surfaces (where it doesn't belong in the first place). For this I use the Gelplane ProScraper (hollow, attaches directly to HEPA vacuum). Since I only remove paint from these relatively small areas, the scraper works just fine. If the paint is well-adhered to the wood there is no real good reason to remove it. Be aware that lead migrates from the paint into the wood, so even when you remove all the paint and think you're dealing with bare wood, you are in fact still dealing with lead-containing surfaces. According to the National Park Service's Historic Preservation Brief # 10 (Exterior paint problems on historic wood work) "removing paint from historic buildings-with the exception of cleaning, light scraping, and hand sanding as part of routine maintenance-should be avoided unless absolutely essential. Once conditions warranting removal have been identified the general approach should be to remove paint to the next sound layer using the gentlest means possible, then to repaint." You could be saving yourself a LOT of work. Lastly, I don't know why some window manufacturers included a pocket door while others didn't. Most likely simple economics, but I wasn't there at the time, so I'm not sure. Luckily it's not that difficult to create a pocket cover. Good luck with your project Martin Muller

[@iksnyzrog]

@@MartinJMuller Thank you for your reply. Good point on saving a lot of work. Maybe I'm over thinking things.. My reason for removing the paint is there are so many layers that it binds the window from operating properly. There's 1/16" or more of paint in places. I notice that the windows in this video are fully painted, to include the jamb. You said you remove paint from the friction surfaces, but you repaint those locations? How do the windows not stick and bind? Do you use wax? My plan is/was to not re-paint the jambs after removing the paint. I'd love to hear your thoughts on this. Thank you!

[@MartinJMuller]

@@iksnyzrog The windows in the video were restored and painted by the homeowner. Too much wood was removed (he got carried away sanding the surfaces after removing the paint) and as a result the sashes (almost 1/8" thinner than originally) were rattling and rolling in the frame. I was hired to install the interlocking weather-stripping and I used the project to create the installation video. Good for you for noticing that the windows were completely painted. I'd forgotten about that. When I say I clean the friction surfaces I mean the outer 3/8 edge of the interior and exterior faces of the sashes. The part that sits up against the interior stop, parting bead, and blind stops. My rule of thumb for what needs finishing (either paint or stain & clear coat): you only paint what you can see with the window in the closed position. That also applies to the frame. So the portion of the jamb that is not visible when the lower sash is closed does not get finished. But the jamb sections above the closed lower sash, and below the bottom of the closed upper sash do get finished. Exceptions (there always are exceptions): the 3/8"-wide strip at the top of the upper sash interior face (which becomes visible as the top sash is lowered) may be finished. Same with the bottom of the lower sash interior face, which sits up against the stool (interior sill), which becomes visible when the lower sash is raised. If you want you can finish the in-facing face of the top sash lower (meeting) rail to match the interior finish. You can also finish the out-facing surface of the lower sash top rail (exterior color). Really no need to finish the top of the top rail of the upper sash, or the bottom of the bottom rail of the lower sash. I do wax the friction surfaces. Paraffin wax. I use the canning wax found in the canning supplies section of the grocery store.

[@iksnyzrog]

@@MartinJMuller What a very clear and understandable explanation. Thank you! My plan has been to only paint what can be seen when the window is closed, but when I viewed this video I questioned that decision. Thankfully I have not sanded my windows.. The weather stripping seems like a level of complication that is best avoided by a homeowner like myself, but if the amount of play and rattle is unacceptable after restoration I may be back for more questions :-) Again, thank you for your time!

[@ovaldezkep2]

Great video Martin, just wondering for the meeting rail weatherstrips why do you plane off 3/8” for the smaller hook? Shouldn’t it be 5/8” since the weatherstrip is 5/8” wide for the small and 3/4” wide for the bigger weatherstrip.

[@MartinJMuller]

Oscar Valdez, on the lower sash you only need to remove enough wood that the smaller hook of the upper sash can wrap around the lower sash hook. 3/8" is plenty. If you remove 5/8" you will be left with a much-reduced nailing surface for that lower sash hook. The diagrams available online (Dorbin Metal or on my website) show the installation of the meeting rail hook in the center of the meeting rail. It is more common to install the hooks at the bottom of the meeting rail, which is what my description is based on. If this is not clear email me at martin muller (one word) at msn dot com and I will send you a better diagram.

[@ovaldezkep2]

@@MartinJMuller thank you Martin for the quick response. Email sent. What’s your website btw?

[@MartinJMuller]

@@ovaldezkep2 doublehungwindowrestoration.com

[@marymathieu467]

Thank you for this video. I have a 1939 home with a wide variety of Andersen Master Frame windows with interlocking zinc weather stripping (including integrated zinc parting beads). The windows are operated using spring-loaded balance tapes located on top of the window. Have you run into this type of window in your work? If so, would you consider making a video on their restoration? I’ve been looking for help with my project for years. I feel these amazing windows need to be preserved as examples of American industrial craftsmanship but restorers in my area tend to want to just scrap the zinc weather stripping.

[@MartinJMuller]

Mary Mathieu. I am sorry to hear you run in to "restorers" who wish to scrap the interlocking metal weather-stripping. Not sure I would call them restorers in that case. I have not run into windows like you describe in 23 years of doing this work in Western Washington. So alas, I can not produce a video for you. In my experience the main reason people want to scrap the zinc metal weather-stripping is because they don't know how to dismantle it without destroying some of the weather-stripping and they aren't aware of the companies that make the stuff. You will find sources for the material in the RESOURCES / METAL INTERLOCKING WEATHERSTRIPPING section on my website: www.doublehungwindowrestoration.com/interlocking-weather-stripping.html I hope this helps.

[@marymathieu467]

@@MartinJMuller Thank you for you quick response and information on supplies. The fact you haven't run into my windows in your long career, is even more motivation for me to preserve them the way they were first designed. I believe they were only around for a few years prior to WW II and then the zinc was probably used in the war effort. I'm so glad there are companies willing to supply this weatherstripping--previous owners have painted my weatherstripping and although I'll do my best to preserve the original zinc, I'll probably need to replace some of it. I must say, my windows are 82 years old and are amazing--I'm pretty sure they'll last another 82 years once I'm finished with them. Cheers.

[@bri1779]

Thank you! What is the tool you use after the hammer (the chisel like tool) that helps you hammer in more accurately ?

[@MartinJMuller]

A nail set. It focuses the force of the hammer solely on the nail (rather then denting the metal or wood).

[@archangelus2]

Great video, thanks so much for posting!

[@mbcummin9445]

Mr Martin, thank you! Our house has these zinc weatherstrips. This house is a 1914 balloon construction in PA and the windows are sadly neglected. We are in the process of removing them for refurbishing, but, how do we get them out with that weather strip?

[@MartinJMuller]

MB Cummin, Thank you for taking on restoration, rather than replacement. The short answer is that you remove the weather-stripping in reverse order of installation. But that leaves out some pitfalls, since often the sashes are painted shut. So, first determine if there is lead-containing paint. If there is, please take appropriate safety precautions (see information here: www.doublehungwindowrestoration.com/the-issue.html). If the lower sash is painted shut you will have to score the paint on both inside and outside and then CAREFULLY free up the sash. First remove the interior vertical stops (assuming they are nailed, use a putty knife and/op small pry bar to gently pull the stop away from the jamb, try not to break the stop; if they are screwed on, remove the screws). Please don't jam a screwdriver into the wood at the interior bottom of the sash. Instead use a stiff putty knife on the exterior, slid beneath the lower rail corners at the same angle as the sill (if you drive it in straight you will damage the sill). Preferably put the putty knife beneath the vertical stiles while (CAREFULLY) prying the sash up. Once the sash moves up and down go to the interior and find the two or three nails that hold the vertical weather-strip (rib strip) in place. Depending on whether the original installer was right- or left-handed you will find the nails on the right side or left side more easily accessible. You are looking to first remove the nails that were installed last. That reverse process I mentioned. Using a putty knife or pry bar inserted between the backside of the rib strip and the jamb, try and start pulling the nails out. If this fails you could try using a hacksaw blade to cut through the nails. Or, as a final option you could use a nail set and drive the nails through the (thin metal) rib strip. Once one side of the weather-strip is loose, you can move the sash up with the rib strip and remove the sash. For the upper sash, if it's painted shut, you need to remove the paint from the rib strip end that protrudes below the bottom of the (closed) upper sash. You also need to score the paint that holds the parting bead (small vertical wood strip between upper and lower sashes) in. The only way to remove the parting bead intact is by sliding the upper sash all the way down to the sill. For information about this see also: www.doublehungwindowrestoration.com/typical-restoration-process.html . Once the parting bead is out and if the upper sash does not slide off the bottom of the rib strip, you will need to remove one side of the upper sash rib strips. Getting the nails out is easier once the parting bead is out. I hope this helps. If you have additional questions, as I said in the video, please contact me by phone (no text, see the number on the side of the truck in the video) and I can see if I can talk you through any of the myriad variations of problems that might crop up. Sincerely, Martin Muller, Owner.

[@randysibley1908]

Martin, thanks for the video. What are your thoughts about sash cord versus chain?

[@MartinJMuller]

Randy Sibley, Both work great. Stay with what you had originally. The pulleys differ so switching from say sash cord to chain involves more than simply the chain and the springs to attach it to the sashes. You'd have to switch the pulleys too. Sash cord lasts 65 years or more (unless it gets painted), so while chain can last much longer, doing the maintenance (taking the window apart and taking care of any issues) every time the cords break is not necessarily a bad thing.

[@ifrdriver]

Fantastic video, does anyone know how I can make a circular saw jig like he uses? Demensions would be great and how to attach to my saw I have lots of cutting to do. Thanks

[@MartinJMuller]

Michael, Thank you for the nice comments. I'm happy to share how I built the circular saw jig. I still need to put a video on that together but haven't found the time yet. Send me an email via info@doublehungwindwrestoration and I'll reply with the info. Martin Muller, Owner Double-hung Window Restoration Seattle, WA

[@beccalowry]

Thanks Martin for this great video. How would you compare this interlocking weather stripping to spring bronze or silicone stripping in terms of energy efficiency? Clearly this is more work to install but I'm wondering if the end result is much more satisfying draft-wise. Thanks!

[@MartinJMuller]

Ms. Lowry, Thank you for the nice comment. Unfortunately I have never encountered information on the difference in efficiency between the various weather-stripping systems. I wish I had. It would be interesting to see. I am not a big fan of the spring bronze. Proper installation requires a nail every inch (following manufacturers' instructions). That's a lot of hammering on the jamb not too far from the dado for the parting bead (= weak spot). I'd worry about damage. Also, invariably, one or more nail heads either stick out from the beginning or work their way proud of the metal face and start pulling splinters from the sash as it is moved up and down. One also has to make absolutely sure that at the top and bottom of the strips one secures the "free" corner, again to avoid the metal slicing the wood. Unless one shaves one face of the meeting rails, installing spring bronze there will make it harder to lock the window (since you are inserting material between the two faces). Of course if someone got carried away sanding too much wood off the face, there may be plenty room. Again, make sure those nails are pounded in well. Sometimes people choose to install the spring bronze with staples (electric or pneumatic stapler). If you ever want to remove the weather-stripping that will be that much harder. Bulb weather-stripping (silicon or otherwise) at the top rail of the upper sash and/or bottom rail of the lower sash works well if there is room. If the addition of the material prohibits the meeting rail from closing properly you would have to remove wood. Using bulb weather-stripping (of any kind) on the sides of the sashes where they have to withstand shear forces of opening/closing windows is unacceptable (in my book). Bulbs are not designed for that and will eventually rip and bunch up. In the worst case jamming the window. You wouldn't believe how often I get to undo this. Yes, the interlocking metal weather-stripping is more work, but it last a century and if you know how it was installed you can actually remove it and re-use it if you do need to take the window out. I guess strictly speaking I am not answering your question on whether the interlocking weather-stripping is more satisfying "draft-wise." Sorry. However knowing I have installed something that will last several generations certainly is most satisfying.

[@beccalowry]

Thank you very much for a thorough and thoughtful reply. This is helpful information. Great video!

[@leestebbins5051]

Anyone have any tips on how much room to leave when building new windows? If I have a 30” opening how wide should my sash be? 29 3/4”? 29 1/2”?

[@MartinJMuller]

Lee Stebbins, I would leave no more than 1/16" on either side, so a 29 7/8"-wide sash for a 30" opening. Once there is 1/8" gap on either side it's time to add weather-stripping.

[@youbettie]

Wonderful video! I've already started restoration of my 36 double hung windows in my house...so much work, but worth it! Im trying to source this weatherstripping, it looks like Dorbin will not sell to the public and directed me to Kilian Hardware. Do you recommend just purchasing the 36" standard lengths and cutting to size, or ordering custom lengths? All my measurements are less than 36". Thanks so much!

[@MartinJMuller]

youbettie, I would order the standart 36" length. The vertical rib strips for the lower sash need to match the lower sash height and the angle at the sill. The upper sash verticals need to protrude enough below the lower sash that even when you fully lower the upper sash the sash doesn't "run off" the rib. Better to determine the appropriate length yourself and adjust if needed. This thin zinc can easily be cut with a chop saw.

[@youbettie]

@@MartinJMuller Thank you! I have one of those nifty zinc came saws that I used for stain glass (kinda like a tiny miter saw with a grinder blade) I'm sure that will work fine. I appreciate the help.

[@leestebbins5051]

One thing I was trying to confirm in your video, do the ribs share the sash cord groove or do they have their own groove top to bottom? I’m afraid a separate groove might eventually blow out the edge of the stile.

[@MartinJMuller]

Lee Stebbins, the rib of the weather-strip has its own groove. If the rib and the sash cord shared the groove, they would interfere. As a matter of fact, in order to avoid having the knot at the end of the sash cord interfere with the rib, I fasten the cord with a few nails, after cutting the knot off (and I tuck the end of the cord deep inside the knot hole, to further ensure there is no chance of interference). Regarding your concern of a blow-out. Since the sash has a stop on both inside and outside, there is almost no force on that thin strip of wood created when you cut the groove. The only time you get blow-outs is when someone who doesn't know how to remove the weather-strip (remove or cut the nails that hold it) uses brute force instead and yanks the sash to the interior when they feel resistance. I hope this helps.

[@leestebbins5051]

Just didn’t have enough meat for the wax strip groove as the sash cord groove was too wide. Filled the sash cord groove with WoodEpox and reroofed with a router. Thanks for the tips and the lesson.

[@wambsganz8]

Nice video. Sadly the website you mention at the end is out of business since March 28 2019. What are your thoughts on Zinc vs Bronze?

[@MartinJMuller]

David, Yes, sadly Accurate Metal Weatherstrip has closed last year. However, you can still get this material from Dorbin Metal Weatherstrip Manufacturing in Chicago. You will find their contact information on this page of my website: www.doublehungwindowrestoration.com/interlocking-weather-stripping.html My thoughts on zinc versus bronze are that if you want to pay twice as much for the bronze weather-stripping, which will only show when you open the window, then by all means do so. Functionally it doesn't make any difference.

[@bibendum253]

Kilian Hardware also sells interlocking weatherstripping. I purchased the materials from them to redo a couple of windows in my house. kilianhardware.com/sprinbronwea.html

[@youbettie]

@@bibendum253 did you just buy the standard 36" pieces and then cut to size or order custom? Getting ready to do 36 windows!

[@bibendum253]

youbettie I bought the 36” and cut it down to fit. Zinc is very soft and easy to cut with tin snips.

[@Ratplague707]

What would you recommend for weatherstripping a curved upper sash?

[@MartinJMuller]

Ratplague707 do you mean an arched top window or do you in fact mean a curved (bent out in the center) window? And is it a double-hung or a casement?

[@Ratplague707]

@@MartinJMuller It is an arched double-hung window, not bent out in the center, and not a casement window. My plan is to cut a series of triangular notches in the flanged rib of the weatherstripping to allow it to flex and conform to the shape of the arch, but if you have a better method for dealing with unique shapes, I'm all ears.

[@MartinJMuller]

@@Ratplague707 I do not have a better way. Your suggestion is what I would have suggested. Good luck.

[@Gatecheverywhere]

Time to go to work!

[@ifrdriver]

I tried to contact you for the demensions for the circular saw but the email you sent me did not go through. I would appreciate if you would send it again. Thanks

[@MartinJMuller]

Michael, I have added instructions on how to build a circular saw jig like I use in the video to my website. You will find it here: www.doublehungwindowrestoration.com/weather-stripping.html Scroll down and download the PDF. I hope this helps. Martin Muller, Owner Double-hung Window Restoration

[@curtismann3649]

What nails are you using for this installation?

[@MartinJMuller]

+Curtis Mann I use 3/4" zinc nails, usually bought along with the weather-stripping. Any (3/4") will do, as long as they don't rust.

[@dksculpture]

Impressive!

[@OldSaltyBear]

You move fast for an old guy. :)

[@newventure5000]

Then you can count on replacing those windows over and over again.

[@kellyweeks55]

Oh my God. For that much work you may as well just buy a new window.