Internal Wall Insulation installer Warwickshire your questions answered

[@chrisgemmix0815]

It's so great to see a professional insulation installation! I am in the middle of a DIY wall insulation project, so I am very curious how more experienced people do it. I am taking a very radical approach: I removed all plaster, internal walls, electrics and plumbing. That allows me to have a nearly uninterrupted layer of insulation. I attached 50mm PIR boards to the walls using adhesive to avoid cold bridging from screws, then put electrical wiring inside the insulation envelope and glued plasterboard onto it all. All partition walls, backboxes, plumbing etc are entirely contained inside, just thinning the insulation down to about half its thickness where the electrical boxes etc go. I used 25mm PIR inside the window reveals, on all four sides, again glued in, and glued MDF windowboards on top. That seemed to me the best I can do. It's probably not a commercially viable approach, but as a DIY project I do hope it will pay for itself in the end. 🙂

[@mickpilling]

Did it work I am thinking of doing the same with 50mm then plasterboard rather than insulated plasterboard

[@FuriousBOIAngel]

Architect who specialises in conservation here. This building looks like it is over 100 years old. By using a PIR product you are actually increasing the risk of damp by moving the dew point to the internal face of the wall. Before you do this seek advice from a professional, preferably from someone who understands the chemistry and physics of old homes. I can see in the video the room was battened. A better solution would be to remove battens, insulate with a wood fibre product and lime plaster

[@SDRobertsPlastering]

Hi @@FuriousBOIAngel the building might look like it's over 100 years old and some parts indeed are, however looks can be decieving and this section of the building is not 100 years old. Neither is it built from lime. I'm not an architect but I know how dew points work and when breathable systems are needed because I have been installing iwi systems and renovating old homes for many years... But if I ever need the help of a professional to educate me on chemistry and physics I'll give you bell 👍 I respect what you conservation boys do but you don't get it right every time so please also respect what I do 👍

[@brianiswrong]

We have literally just had this done in our sitting room, 1880 house, no cavity. The boards are expensive (25mm or 50mm) compared to normal plaster boards, but the difference in " feel" of the room (3 external walls) is totally different. We had 50mm on externall walls and 25mm on the internal wall were the doors in and out are (saves having to have thick peices of timber packing out the door frames).

[@jeromeroddy4931]

Cheers Tyson fury your the man ! Oh and your insulation advice is great thanks! 👍

[@samuelpearson-ts6yc]

For the flir camera, I prefer the rainbow effect as it shows the contrast between the warmest and coldest areas really well. Thanks for the video, appreciate seeing how you’ve done it and get some ideas. 50mm won’t work for me. I’ve got a couple of samples and I will be using 30mm for the walls and 50mm for the ceilings. I’m hoping it’ll be almost just as effective.

[@Hew.Jarsol]

Hi mate, dot and dab or batten is best on solid brick walls? How do you attach the plasterboard to the insulation, and insulation to the batten? Cheers

[@lorikaczor2994]

The air gap should be leaft .the boutom of my insolated cup came off .there was cup inside a cup with air gap .thinking fill gap would make better . NO the heat or cold was transferd faster . Same thing would happ en in your wall. In 2os 30s thy would double plaster or back plaster by putting lath inside wall and plaster it .two air gaps much warmer

[@green4661]

Unless the house is bone dry at all times there is no way mould is not growing behind the plasterboard. Will be warm for a while but everyone is getting mould growth already behind biards, as seen in plenty other vids. I have a new build, full of mould in the insulation behind plasterboard, I have a 1900s terrace with no insulation sash windows, timber floors and zero mould or mildew. Which house is colder by 10 degrees in winter ❄😉

[@SDRobertsPlastering]

@@green4661 Incorrect installations cause problems with all insulation systems you can find horror stories everywhere for bad cavity wall insulation, bad external wall insulation and yes bad iwi examples too. That's why it's important to check the fabric and make up of the building and to check for signs of water ingress and penetrating damp before installing the products you need to have a good understanding of how these systems work before installing. You can also find examples of good cavity wall installs, good EWI installs and good IWI installs that stand the test of time and are working perfectly People contact me because the room is cold and despite taking measures to improve heat retention like double glazing, loft insulation and new central heating the rooms are still cold over winter as these cold solid walls literally suck heat from the rooms. Correct installation of iwi will fix that problem and does not cause damp and mould build up behind the products this is due to incorrect installation.

[@Schinney]

Very interesting and informative, thanks 👍

[@dfcar8119]

I have no experience in insulation and planing to insulate my single garage (Internal insulation - single brick wall). Have seen a lot of videos but it is not clear if: 1. I need to install battens or not 2. If battens need a special tape before screwing them to the wall to protect them from moisture. 3. If I need to apply a plastic sheet barrier behind battens and insulation panels 4. If insulation goes inside the battens frame or on top of it. 5. Do I need to leave a gap between the insulation panels and the brick wall for air movement 6. Depending on your answer for for point 4, I assume the plasterboard panels will go on top on the insulation panels and screwed to the battens ? Sorry, for so many questions but 98% of videos about garage insulation don't show or explain this and almost everyone is doing this in a different way. Thanks in advance for your comments and hope it helps other people like me.

[@SDRobertsPlastering]

Is your garage attached to your home? Is your garage made up of lime mortar?

[@dfcar8119]

No, it is not attached to my home.

[@jablot5054]

If you don't know what you are doing dont do it yourself. To many videos on KZbin show the wrong way to do things.

[@dfcar8119]

@@jablot5054 I am just highlighting that the videos for this process are not good enough. They leave a lot for interpretation and it would be great if SD Roberts Plastering could improve this.

[@warrenbarton6608]

@@jablot5054 Why should he not do it him self,he maybe more than capable to carry out the construction work ,he is asking for advise so he does follow correct building methods,maybe he should employ a surveyor to design it for him and then just follow correct method statment

[@graemerobertson7354]

Hi, great work! Can I ask I'm about to insulate a cavity wall internally with a new stud wall and pir boards, does an air gap need to be left between the brick and the new pir boards?

[@green4661]

They have no idea.

[@FrancisCWolfe]

I think it would have been a good idea to blow some insulation beads into the void that you have there.

[@northeastcorals]

Exactly what I thought

[@PeteAulton-z7b]

What is the 6mm insulation board (what is it called) as I can’t seem to find any online or in merchants

[@markmcgrath4853]

very good work !

[@carlhirst2480]

Can I ask how does part L1B of the building regulations come in to play with this type of refurbishment.

[@stephenbetley9596]

Internally insulating the gable end wall of a early 1900s typical northern end terrace. Two layer brick with 50mm cavity. Unfortunately the cavity is hard to fill 25mm-75mm variation. Additionally one corner has an old exposed chimney breast - which will be later converted to a wood stove flue. So, should I for all intent & purpose treat this wall as a solid wall due to the cavity? Wall has been stripped down to brick and fully cleaned of plaster. Looking to first add a couple of waterproofing layers and fill in any mortar gaps. Then looking at 25mm x 50mm treated battens and 1200mm wide 40mm Kingspan/Ecothem. Any advice on the above and what to look out for? What are your thoughts on bead cavity wall insullation for hard to fill cavities? Thanks.

[@user-sn6qy7hw5g]

Is internal wall insulation ok for houses with cavity walls ? Or is it overkill?

[@eaminslim52]

Great tips, ive taken walls back to bare brick whats the best way to get boards on i dont want to batten and bricks are dry and dusty as witches t*t

[@Curraghsheep]

Hi there I live in a cold timber frame house in Ireland built in 2003 drafts under window sills and skirted boards. And draft coming up wall from esb and gas meters box Should I rip off plaster board and replace and find and plug all drafts or just put insulated plaster board over existing plaster board???? Any help please I’m a diy guy as no cash for professional to do job

[@robinbennett5994]

I'd be tempted to rip off the plasterboard and fill the timber frame with rockwool. Then add a plastic membrane for air-tightness, and plasterboard over that (all of which should have been done by the builder!). At that point you don't really need insulated plasterboard, but it's not much extra work and it insulates the timber frame itself and prevents cold spots where condensation and mould can form.

[@Curraghsheep]

@@robinbennett5994thanks for your help

[@LickorishAllsorts]

Does anyone have experience of removing render on EWI and the re-rendering (after fixing the worst of the FUs from the original installers)?

[@poddybohy]

Interested to hear you experience on gains would you expect from 38mm thermal PIR internally, I've just done my whole house external facing walls with this and ceilings in each room, for the internal walls just foil backed board. All PIR walls were battened out for wiring. I have my own benchmark, had last room skimmed (all others done during summer) and ran a blow heater on lowest setting for two days and dehumidifier, room was paint ready in 2 days - no internal doors up, taped sheeting over frames to trap heat and moisture, got from 13c to 23c in 2 hours. After turning off the heat it was still 19c after 3 hours. I guess I may have answered my own question :) If your in a position to put this board up the saving on heating (oil / gas) is within a few years.

[@SDRobertsPlastering]

Assuming your property is built from 9" solid walls (average thermal resistance being around 0.8 - 0.9 m2k/w ) with a 37.5mm PIR board your thermal gains will be around 40% on the walls alone. The fact that you have also done the ceiling which typically draw around 25% heat (depending on existing insulation levels) and also lined the internal walls with foil backed board I'd imagine you'll be well into 50% improvements for this room. When installing PIR insulation my customers often tell me they can keep radiators on very low during winter and the rooms warm up rapidly and stay warm for a long time even after turning off heating

[@billystar51]

Great video thanks. My walls are solid brick, do I need to batten them or can the boards be dot and dab? Also the walls have wallpaper, do I need to remove it or just go over the top? Cheers

[@Chief81]

Don’t fix the boards with dot & dab. It will create cold bridging spots (where the adhesive is). Fix with either low expansion foam or some other construction adhesive.

[@user-cn1em2qx6f]

what about pipes that run up internal corner. can i just plasterboard over them?

[@HouseFairyDIY]

I've just had a quote from a specialist insulation company and they said they wouldn't insulate around the windows or the windowsill. They said they would leave the wooden trim around the window and the insulation would be rounded off back to the edge of the trim. This doesn't sound right to me. Any advice?

[@SDRobertsPlastering]

@@HouseFairyDIY Hi there, do you have sash windows?

[@HouseFairyDIY]

@@SDRobertsPlastering Yes, they are new pvc sash windows.

[@SDRobertsPlastering]

@@HouseFairyDIY the chambers to the old sash windows maybe behind the reveal which might be why they will only insulate the face and not return into the frame

[@HouseFairyDIY]

@@SDRobertsPlastering He said his company never insulates around the window or the windowsill. I thought that was odd because I've seen a video demo by Alpha Building & Heating that shows everything getting covered. I'll have to get another company in I think. Thanks.

[@SDRobertsPlastering]

@@HouseFairyDIY Yes I've also done many videos on the importance of insulating around window reveals. I mentioned sash windows because the only restriction is when chambers prevent me from stripping and insulating the reveals so in this case the face will be insulated and a thin profile insulation is used to cap the edge. If the sash window is new I'm assuming it operates on built in springs not weights so in theory the reveals can be insulated. All window reveals must be insulated properly and the gap between the frame and masonry fully sealed otherwise the reveal is at risk of cold bridging and this could lead to condensation/ mould developing around the reveals.

[@MarcusT86]

Great video buddy

[@sanjirosanjiro6529]

One question, I have damp on some internal walls looking to use safeguard drystone system i.e. hack bck to brick install dryrods, paint salt neutralising solution with view to then install insulating plasterboard as all rooms are very cold. My question is which type of plasterboard will work with the safeguard drygrip adhesive as I'm advised to use this adhesive when offering up the p-board to the treated brickwork. Any particular brands you recommend. Apologies for long post most grateful for your kind help.

[@SDRobertsPlastering]

Hello, Any brand of PU adhesive is ideal for bonding standard and also insulated plasterboard I can recommend megastick thank you for watching

[@bobgriffin316]

I insulated my internal walls with 17 mm insulation stuck to 9 mm plasterboard. It got rid of the mould I had on the walls. 5 years later the problem never came back.

[@Hew.Jarsol]

It just masks it?

[@bobgriffin316]

@@Hew.Jarsol No it does not mask it. The mould does not happen when the wall is insulated. The reason is because the wall is warm because of the insulation. The mould only appears because of moist air hitting a cold surface. When the surface is warm the moisture does not drop out of the air and condense on the wall. The moisture stays in the air and does not cause any condensation and mould at all. An insulated wall gets to the root of the problem of mouldy walls. However, just cleaning the mould off the wall and painting over the wall does only mask the problem It will get mouldy again when the wall gets cold again the next time the outside temperature goes down again. The problem has not been fixed.

[@Hew.Jarsol]

@@bobgriffin316 Thanks mate. What do you make of the wall rock thermal liner graphite?

[@garytango]

👍

[@richardwesson7686]

Hi iam just going to insulate my bedroom on the first floor it has a chimney breast on the outside wall does this need insulation as well its a victorian end terrace many thanks for any advise

[@SDRobertsPlastering]

@@richardwesson7686 Floor space usually prevents..Given the additional thickness and mass of brick and air cavity heat loss through chimney breasts is minimal at least compared to solid walls anyway. Usually we will insulate either side of the chimney breast however if floor space allows then I would say yes. You could also consider using a thin option over the face of the chimney breast 👍

[@richardwesson7686]

@SDRobertsPlastering thank you so much I'll do that

[@user-or5mo4kd8u]

Is external wall insulation better or internal wall insulation?

[@jackieboy536]

Just finished installing the 12mm XPS/Jackoboard/elements board in our downstairs loo on 3 external walls and 20mm on concrete floor. This room was the coldest one in the whole house as it had 3 external wall, house is 1985 double skin and poorly insulated cavity wall. With certainty we can say it's now the warmest room in the house, radiator turned down to 2.5 and temp between 18.5-19.5 during recent frosty days. Any advice on that as I couldn't find anything about this method on KZbin. Will keep an eye on this room over the winter and probably do the same to the rest of the house. What's your thoughts on that?

[@SDRobertsPlastering]

XPS is a good option even at 12mm you'll significantly improve the R values of the walls. Floor typically draws around 15% heat. Make sure to use a PU adhesive or AC50 adhesive when sealing joints (not drywall adhesive)

[@jackieboy536]

Done exactly that, thx for your expert advice. Carry on with great work and share more stuff here 👍👍

[@The19610211]

Great video. I have limited space so the depth of the insulation board is an issue. Could you say what is the best/most thermally efficient panel with a max depth of 25 mm/1 inch?

[@SDRobertsPlastering]

12mm jacko board bonded with PU adhesive , skimmed will build out to around 20mm. Alternatively you could use spray cork insulation which offers a 30% thermal improvement at a thickness of around 8mm

[@The19610211]

@@SDRobertsPlasteringthanks! Haven’t heard about the cork solution before 👍

[@robinbennett5994]

If you really need the most thermally efficient board, you can get aerogel products, either as blankets or hard foam boards. They're at least twice the price of normal foam though.

[@GarethWakefield-y7f]

can you advise what product was used around the window please - you mention 6mm thermal board

[@Thewizard1690]

It was jackerboard mate

[@SDRobertsPlastering]

Hello, the product is 6mm Jacko board

[@mrjackstrong5389]

Scale bar required on that thermal image

[@alpachino468]

It's a really good idea, but I bet these types of insulation methods come with a premium attached...

[@robinbennett5994]

The cost is mostly labour, disruption and redecorating. Foam and plasterboard are pretty cheap if you do it yourself when you're redecorating.

[@northeastcorals]

Just do it your self, it's not rocket science as long as you do a bit of reading before hand

[@Hew.Jarsol]

The rads and electrics are a pain though

[@1anonlyedwiltshire]

Great vids thanks. Been reading best practice guide for iwi and have some concerns about interstitial condensation and the need for air barriers. Could I ask for your opinion please.

[@SDRobertsPlastering]

It's a common question I'll be doing a video on this subject. In a nutshell air tightness is vital. But more importantly any penetrating damp issues MUST be resolved prior to install. In my experience this is the biggest cause of interstitial condensation and trapped moisture (trying to cover over problems with insulation) Walls must be water tight before considering IWI. So it's important to inspect mortar joints, render, gutters, downpipes and window seals.

[@jonnygunner65]

Stop with ‘guys’…it’s sounds like a Yank.

[@chrisgemmix0815]

Whats' wrong with Yanks? ;-)

[@Hew.Jarsol]

Everyone says "hi Guys" now lol so yankifed!

[@chapsheating1006]

Good video buddy