International DT466 Front Main Seal Replacement Highlights

What's up, everyone! Today, I've got just a mash-up of some clips I took while replacing the front main seal on an International DT466, which also requires removal of the low pressure oil pump assembly. This is not a how-to video, just more of an entertainment video showing all of the major components, and steps for the job. Enjoy!
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0:00 - Intro
0:08 - Removing harmonic balancer bolts and thrust plate
0:25 - Pulling harmonic balancer off
0:46 - Removing the front main seal/low pressure oil pump housing
1:02 - Removing the outer pump gear
1:06 - Removing drift key, thrust washer, inner pump gear, and thrust plate
1:26 - Installing new front engine cover o-ring
1:37 - Installing the new front main seal
1:48 - Pre-lubing the inner and outer pump gears, as well as the housing
2:18 - Installing the new front main seal/low pressure oil pump housing o-ring
2:30 - Installing new thrust plate
2:40 - Reinstalling the inner pump gear
2:48 - Reinstalling the front main seal/low pressure oil pump housing
2:55 - Reinstalling bolts for the front main seal/low pressure oil pump housing
3:13 - Torquing bolts for the front main seal/low pressure oil pump housing
3:24 - Removing the old front main seal wear sleeve from the harmonic balancer
3:38 - Pressing the new front main seal wear sleeve onto the harmonic balancer
3:58 - Installing new front main seal dust seal onto the harmonic balancer
4:09 - Reinstalling the harmonic balancer
4:21 - Reinstalling harmonic balancer thrust plate and pulling balancer back onto the crankshaft
5:12 - Removing the extended puller bolts and spacer nuts from the crankshaft
5:32 - Reinstalling/tightening factory thrust plate and harmonic balancer bolts
6:11 - Torquing harmonic balancer thrust plate bolts
6:34 - Serpentine belt reinstalled and checking proper tension
6:46 - Starting the truck and running to temp to verify oil pressure and no leaks
7:40 - Outro
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Tags:
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[@Michaelajacksonfilms]

Thank you

[@SG-Motorsports]

Good job but, that is good looking torque wrench and I can only see myself buying that to use it in one situation. Doing a little drag racing with 1320 video and having a torque wrench you don't have to actually focus on in the dark but go by the lights, that's pretty damn cool.🤟

[@TonyTheTruckGuy]

I like the old click style as well but I bought the digital one so I could do degrees lol

[@justinkorthauer3805]

Where did you get the puller from and does it work on other motors? I use a 3 jaw puller but its not easy to get it setup by myself.

[@TonyTheTruckGuy]

The one I used is actually a cam gear puller for a Detroit series 60 I think lol, it just happens to work for this.

[@metalnewsnetwork3116]

This is a great video. I can't get the middle of the pulley(the part with the three bolts) to come out. The edges aren't smooth, it didn't just fall out like yours did. Any tricks for that?

[@TonyTheTruckGuy]

The circular plate at the 0:20 mark? It gets rusted in sometimes. I usually take a small punch and feed it at a vertical angle into one of the 3 bolt holes and then tap the punch with a hammer to get the center plate to rotate. Do that for a while to work things free and then start using screwdrivers through the bolt holes to kind of work your way around and pry around the plate to work it out.

[@metalnewsnetwork3116]

yes THANK you for the tip@@TonyTheTruckGuy

[@TonyTheTruckGuy]

@@metalnewsnetwork3116 No problem, good luck!

[@alhoot727]

Great vidieo, I am about to do the same job ,can you tell me what grade of bolts to use to pull in the pulley and how long. my guess is grade 10.9 or 8 12mm by 120mm, thank you for any advice. I dont want to get lower grade bolts and have them twist off. and also where can you get them?

[@TonyTheTruckGuy]

The 3 bolts I was using to pull the pulley on were just grade 8.8 I think. I can’t remember the exact length or size though. I can check when I’m back to work monday if it can wait until then. We stock a variety of bolts at my work but you could get them at a local hardware store or something like that.

[@alhoot727]

@@TonyTheTruckGuy Thanks i can wait for info, the only ones I found at ace hardware was 8 bucks apiece and only grade 5 , didn't want to chance them breaking off

[@TonyTheTruckGuy]

@@alhoot727 Yeah you would probably be fine but better not to risk it haha

[@Toptrans989]

Is it the same on 2001 model dt466 engine with only 3 bolts on puller

[@Divided-we-fall]

What remover is that for the pulley???

[@TonyTheTruckGuy]

That was actually a cam gear puller for a Detroit 60 series that just barely worked lol. Most harmonic balancer pullers will work so long as it physically bolts up.

[@ronaldweir6510]

Is there a kit

[@TonyTheTruckGuy]

Not sure I was just using a cam gear puller to get the pulley off and then the seal is the only part needed besides a press. I don't have the part number for the seal handy, though.

[@user-bq2mn5rj1i]

So looking at this. I just replaced the seal. It wont leak than after getting to temp it will leak rapidly out of the seal. Thoughts or suggestions?

[@TonyTheTruckGuy]

Did you remove the old metal sleeve on the harmonic balancer? I made the mistake 1 time of not doing that and it gushed like crazy when I got it back together.

[@user-bq2mn5rj1i]

Yes, I put a new race on. The only thing I can possibly think of is that somehow keeps getting crushed in there. For some reason it is an extremely tight fit and does not like to go on.

[@TonyTheTruckGuy]

@@user-bq2mn5rj1i It is kind of a bear to get the balancer back on. Are you sure it's seated al the way? If so, you'd probably have to pull the balancer back down and just verify that the metal sleeve on it is not damaged and no obvious seal damage. You did replace the 2 O-rings between that trust plate for the oil pump also?

[@user-bq2mn5rj1i]

@@TonyTheTruckGuy yes, replaced the 2 orings as well for the pump assembly. It just seems to be coming out of the seal. But it won't leak until it's up to temp.

[@TonyTheTruckGuy]

@@user-bq2mn5rj1i Going to have to pull the damper back down then to inspect what’s going on unfortunately. Unless the damper just isn’t fully seated onto the crank