Intro to Laser Engraving (ft Atezr L2)

[@B.A.Bassangler]

Hi. Very nice video! My power turns on but my touch display is dark. Any suggestions...(before inducing a migraine with contacting customer service)?

[@ChatterontheWire]

I've enjoyed using my laser for a few things: 1. Cutting leather, though you need a good air removal system to get ride of the burnt leather smell 2. Engraving 50 cal ammo cans Enjoy your new toy/tool, it has a lot of potential, though the time it takes to do it may be longer than other options.

[@MCsCreations]

Pretty amazing machine indeed, Linn! Congrats! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@brucelee3388]

A basic portable industrial style barrel fan placed OUTSIDE with some large diameter flex ducting going inside could move the fumes from laser cutting out of the building as well as reducing the noise in the shop. For smoke and fumes you need high volume rather than velocity, which is more important for moving wood dust from a CNC router.

[@m.rei85]

A very nice machine. It looks more or less identical to the iKier brand machines. I can recommend buying (or building) a housing with smoke extraction and a honeycomb to avoid burn marks at the underside of the material. With a housing, you can safely use the engraver, especially with the possibility of other people coming in range of eventual laser reflections. Especially when engraving materials other than wood, the smoke can be toxic. There also are materials, like vinyl / PVC which shouldn't be engraved, due to the toxic and harmful gases, which can also damage the laser.

[@darbinorvar]

I'm just in the process now of designing a better downdraft style table. And I did buy a honeycomb that works much better.

[@502deth]

lol, i just bought one and received it yesterday. same brand, but not as many bells and whistles as that one, but i did the same. i set it up and tried it out, i ran it a few dozen times and it did NOTHING. i was getting very upset. your issue was the speed, mine was the power was turned down way too low.

[@johnford7847]

Interesting video, Linn. I'll be watching to see what you do with this. A custom made puzzle with your son's face engraving on the wooden substrate? Or perhaps a puzzle featuring Darbin Orvar himself as merch?

[@ChatterontheWire]

speed upgrade, all great, IF the laser is strong enough to be able to do anything at that speed!

[@srmofoable]

FYI, i have personally tested many types of those cheap glasses that come with Chinese lasers. NONE have offered any form of protection. I mean literally, they did not block any wave length put out by the lasers. Get yourself a real pair. I have found the glasses offered by Optlaser have an affordable pair around $50usd that actually block in the ranges of 190-540nm, OD7+.

[@darrellreed7044]

Try using the automatic air assist to make cleaner cuts!

[@donalddunn2983]

Can you tell me how to turn the cross hair on and off? Mine does not come on and I need to know if it's a problem with the machine or if something got turned off some how?

[@harryragland7840]

I have kids, so safety features are a priority. I have the Next Wave Moray Diode laser. It has a steel enclosure, exhaust fan port and will shut off if you open the lid. That said, it can barely cut paper. It takes hours to do a project with 2mm basswood. My wife's Cricut Maker can cut basswood faster. I recently ordered a Roly Lasermatic10 engraver. It too has an enclosure, exhaust fan port and safety shut off. It also has a rotary attachment, work area camera and safety shutoff. I'm hoping the new laser will be more capable for the type of projects that I do.

[@scotttovey]

Linn, I suggest you either purchase or make a cabinet for your laser engraver. It doesn't even need to be a full cabinet, just one where the walls are tall enough so that if Austin should happen to walk into the room while it is running, there can't be any accidental eye damaging stray flashes. I haven't played with my burner is awhile. It's rated to cut 1/8 inch wood and I accidentally burned a hole in a piece of 1/4 inch. The apartment manager installed a new fire alarm system and I'm a bit concerned that it might go off if I fire up the burner. I need to make a case big enough to house the burner and the air cleaner I have sitting next to it.

[@signptr]

Focus , power, depth, refocus for different materials

[@BrittCHelmsSr]

Your tests look out of focus to me - ah, you just addressed it @6:25. Leather works well, but with no extraction, get used to the smell of burning flesh. I opted seven or eight years ago to purchase a $400 K40 CO2 Laser and play with it. I've had a lot of fun making things and learning about the process. I use it to make wooden nametags for scouting groups, engraved nameplates for Eagle Scout projects and so much more. It comes in it's own enclosure with ventilation and external liquid cooling for the upgraded 50 watt laser tube.

[@Boutsman]

Love your work Linn, but open lasercutters are a big no no imo. I use a 100W and a 150W CO2 laser mainly for creating light panels, signs, enclosures for electronics, soldermasks, ...

[@zviper]

no enclosure and no fume extraction is BAD also those goggles are definitely not rated for that wave length

[@marcfrst2332]

Pretty dangerous without a case protection, with such wonderfully beautiful blue eyes. Build yourself a housing protection for the laser and a laser protection screen, no matter what it costs, once it is hit in your eyes and you will go blind!!! The glasses that the manufacturers supply are not always sufficient!!! A real industrial laser glasses is at a price of more than 500, - € in Germany, then only for this special laser with the wavelength XY !!!!!!! Be careful with your eyesight/your beautiful blue eyes ;-)

[@gjforeman]

And on the laser safety subject, many of the so-called laser safety glasses sold on Amazon, etc, are useless crap. I noticed your laser unit has a small, inadequate-looking orange-tinted shield, and your laser beam seems the same basic color as mine. I bought my glasses, (including extras for any spectators), from my laser vendor. They are the same color as that orange shield we have in common. Your glasses appear to be a dark dark green. Maybe they are OK, but laser safety lenses need to be specified for the exact wavelength of your beam. Even the darkest standard sunglasses will not work. They may only provide enough protection to mask the damage until it becomes severe. If they aren't the right type they may only serve to cause the pupils to open wider, increasing the danger. My laser's focal distance is such that it rides 1/8" above the target material , so the orange shield completely obscures the beam itself unless I drop down level with the work piece. Which I will NOT do. And I STILL wouldn't operate without my glasses. Yours seems to focus a large distance above the target, with a HUGE visible laser beam exposed. With that rig of yours, I wouldn't want to be in the same room while it's operating, unless I had glasses I KNEW are spec for your beam frequency. And even then I'd be uneasy and reflexively squinting a lot. You can also buy sheets of the same plastic glasses are made of. I bought some 12 x 12 orange colored sheets, also from my vendor. I intend to incorporate them into a front window in my future CNC / Laser enclosure. I'm amazed at the casual way laser safety is demonstrated on-line, and in advertising. Favorite is the guy engraving with a massively open framed laser on shiny round tumblers on his low coffee table. His faithful dog and he are both just inches from the beam, smiling and staring intently. NO glasses or shielding in sight. When he goes blind, will he have to trade in his Best Friend for a seeing-eye dog? Will his current dog also get a seeing eye dog?? Truly scary stuff. I suppose some of my laser safety awareness stems from an experience 20+ years ago, when some fool was playing with a laser pointer, flashing it around inside a crowded restaurant. As our party was exiting the front door, I got a quick, passing flash of red light in my right eye. It was like a physical punch. I figured it would pass, and going back inside to kill that idiot might have ruined our evening, so I just went home. And it took at least a month before my eye stopped hurting. Now that was with a low-powered red laser pointer (maybe 300mw?), from maybe 20 yards away. So, imagine what damage you might suffer from mere feet away, with a laser rated 100s of times stronger? A quick accidental reflection, or prolonged staring at a beam as bright as the sun? Please, look into additional shielding and get the facts on those iffy-looking green lenses for your wavelength. You'd look odd posting videos with your seeing eye dog at your side.

[@gjforeman]

Let me preface this by saying I'm a long time viewer who loves your work. BUT, before burning anything other than wood, you need to search for videos on dangerous materials, and you do your viewers a serious disservice by failing to mention these dangers UPFRONT. Hopefully, your laser manufacturer should have included some guidance on this issue. MANY of the materials people might find around them give off seriously TOXIC fumes that can also seriously damage or destroy their equipment by coating the laser optics with a nasty residue. Chemically treated or painted wood is awful. Plywood glues are nasty. Leather is bad enough, but many bits of "leather" in our world today are made of seriously toxic man-made plastic materials, and they can be difficult to distinguish. Many if not most plastics give off seriously dangerous fumes, including chlorine and cyanide compounds. I have a small J Tech Photonics laser head that is strapped to my Shapeoko CNC, and I use Lightburn to drive it. Thus far, I have only burned wood, my CNC is adjacent to my garage door, and I always have a large fan blowing the fumes out the door, and I still have issues with smoke in my shop. I intend to build an enclosure for my CNC / laser combo, and it will include dust extraction for the CNC as well as a separate smoke / fume extraction system for the laser. Only then will I feel safe enough to burn anything other than clean pine and oak.