Iron Acetate-Explained

[@TheShavingWoodWorkshop]

Very nice job of explaining this Chris

[@ITSAWOODTHING]

Great tutorial, thanks Chris.... lots of great information.

[@DavidBishopinc]

Wow, that was a mouth full and informative.

[@mikafoxx2717]

Fun fact: The iron mixes with the tannins in the wood to make the same ferrogallic substances that make up iron gall ink, which was used for writing since at least 300 CE and is still made today. Back then, they would have used iron (II) sulphate, which could be made by using battery acid instead of vinegar to dissolve the steel wool, and a boiled down oak bark tea, or better yet oak gall apples. You might also be able to infuse wood with normal black or green tea, since it's about 20-30% tannins by weight.

[@KSFWG]

Some very good info here, Chris. I'm looking forward to the 2nd part. Thanks!

[@danmenz9572]

Great video! I've seen others explain this, but none so clear and concise.

[@bwbark]

Great info Chris. Well covered. Thank you.

[@johnshaffner1796]

Thanks for this info, Chris. Always wondered how/why this works. Might just have to give it a go on my next project

[@Cactusworkshopchannel]

Very cool chemistry lesson and very interesting stuff shared! thanks! waiting for the results!

[@ozzydeschapell3618]

oh I'm so trying this. but can you finish over iron acetate with lacquer , shellac or varnish? what would be best? great video by way. Thanks for the info

[@jpwoodwork]

very helpful Chris, look forward to the follow-up :)

[@Wackywoodworks]

Well you learn something new every day...I like the tea trick and making the sawdust tea ... I did not know those ones... thanks for sharing... See I knew you were serious we you picked up a coffee mug and not a beer...

[@sdmcustoms]

lots of great information thanks for sharing

[@robertevans6481]

Great information Chris, was not expecting chem 101....lol.... I like to use dark woods for my pens and ebony is high as a kite...lol. walnut with this done will look awesome.... Thanks Chris.

[@TrevorsWoodShop]

The questions I had about this process has pretty much been answered! Great job explaining Chris I always wanted to try this stuff out

[@BraxtonWirthlin]

Great info, Chris! I actually just used some iron acetate on a build. It worked great and it'll be an upcoming video!

[@jenniferreynolds3232]

Is this food safe? I would like to try this on birch butcher block and use the butcher block to cut food on.

[@MakeCrazydays]

Great information Chris. Might be interesting to get into the chemistry of the reaction. Also, a couple items which might be useful to note. I seem to recall the reaction between the vinegar and steel wool produces quite a bit of gas. Make sure the jar (especially a mason jar) doesn't have a super tight seal or you risk having the jar break.

[@GarageWoodworks]

The gas is hydrogen which is very flammable. FYI

[@hansdegroot8549]

Great video. Thanks for sharing. I'm lucky that I watch this video only now :-) I can straight go to part 2.

[@Stacy_Smith]

How do you REMOVE iron acetate from something that you have removed rust from? Is there a chemical that removes iron acetate? The piece I'm working on has a lot of internal components that can't be reached with a brush. I removed the rust already but I would like to remove the black iron acetate that has been left behind from the process.

[@Stacy_Smith]

@@chriscute7528 It's metal not wood. I've got black iron acetate buildup in areas of inclusions where it was welded. I used vinegar and a ultrasonic parts washer to remove rust & weld slag now I'm left with a piece that is grey from a thin layer of iron acetate with several black spots where some inclusions are. I'm planning on electroplating this and I want a super pure steel surface to start out with.

[@AlexanderGee]

@@Stacy_Smith Way late but it's soluble in ethanol.

[@woodworks3585]

Great Info Chris. Very well explained this was a good video for all to watch, Well done buddy you remind me of my Old Chemistry Teacher LOL Thank you for sharing.. Take care...

[@woodworks3585]

***** Yes Mate I did as I do with all your videos Thanks again take care

[@lisa-marieshy9673]

Thank you sooo much Chris! Out of ALL the MANY videos I've watched NONE are as informative as yours! I have a question about 'introducing' tannins into softer wood. How much sawdust do you need to boil? How long does it have to boil? And do you have to wait until your project is completely dry after placing the tannin mixture on it? Thank you again for such great videos ;) PS- Specifically oak.

[@lisa-marieshy9673]

Chris Cute you're fantastic! Thank you for the super quick response! Ok, so I've actually done both lol I boiled both the oak sawdust & the tea mixture, they're both cooling to room temp as we speak. My concern with the tea (and this is coming totally from inexperience lol) is my table top will take on a 'brown' tone. I am looking for a black/grey barnwood finish. Should I just use the tea mixture instead? Will this give me the desired effect? Also, can iron acetate be re-applied? I've previously used an iron acetate mixture on an ikea Side table but didn't get near the effect desired. Again, thank you for your time. I greatly appreciate it 😉

[@lisa-marieshy9673]

Chris Cute Perfect! Thank you soooo much! I'm definitely a new subscriber!

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Just throwing another source of tannin out there. If you happen to have a home brew shop or a store that sells wine making supplies local to you, you can pick up tannin powder for pretty cheap. Winemakers use tannin to add a dryness to their wines. I mix 1 tablespoon of tannin powder with a cup of water, brush it onto the wood, then let it dry completely. Then you apply the iron acetate solution over it. It'll start changing color right before your eyes. Be warned, however, that it'll turn the wood very dark. I've used it to successfully ebonize oak, maple, poplar, pine - you name it, really.

[@MichaelLawing]

Great overview. I've seen a lot of conflicting info, like you mentioned.

[@MrBonners]

Instant palletwood Try the pickling vinegar on the next store shelf, decreases decomp time.

[@willemkossen]

This stuff for me is a waste product from restoring rusty old tools. I use vinegar to derust. What remain is a dark reddish brown iron acetate solution with rust particles in it. Great for staining. Coffee filters can help get rid of particles. Dont waste steel whool, just restore an old Stanley nr4!!!!

[@EDCMatt]

I love me some good tannins first thing in the morning.

[@KSFWG]

+Chris Cute (Make The First Cut) Earl Gray -- Shaken, Not Stirred.... But I could be confused. ;)

[@gavinjenkins899]

Having coffee on your bench in a chemistry lab is an extremely bad idea

[@chriscute7528]

Good thing I wasn't in a chemistry lab then.