Huge Disappointment 51" TFL Ariane Maiden Run

[@hoodatdare7039]

HEY B I WAS JUST LOOKING AT THE VIDEO AGAIN AND I THINK THAT THE PROP SHAFT DROPED OUT 15' DOWN THE SHORE LINE AND 15' OUT. SLOW MO REPLAY. WHEN YOU START TO MOVE AGAIN YOU CAN ONLY SEE ONE PROP WORKING.

[@boatwerks]

I saw the same thing

[@M14armorer]

Yep… If you’re lucky enough you can find it B.

[@RollingThunder808]

It might be easy to find if the bottom is hard and not muddy.

[@frozenemperor3738]

I noticed that after rewatching it after reading this comment

[@tl2177]

Maybe you could drag a large magnet across the location that people are identifying. I've retrieved fishing lures with this method.

[@RcBoatGang]

Hope you find the parts big B! Everyone wants to see the boat run! Keep your head up! :)

[@joshbsz]

A bad day boating still beats a good day workin! 😎

[@wallacem610]

Plus thanks u just saved me some money and don't care it's going to spin out no matter how much lock u put on it

[@drhellix]

The engineers really screwed up. This is always going to be a problem if the drive is in a dual prop setup. Also I would be scared using reverse with this setup. I’ve been closely monitoring and watching your video’s on this boat build. I love the idea of the Ariane drives and was so close to building a new boat, you kinda saved me from a huge headache. Forget locktite, or even JB weld, pin might work but snap after a while. I’d weld the damn permanently.

[@playanddisplay3636]

Brother this is BS I can't believe TFL did my boy BIG B like this! Feeling for you brother, being let down by components outside of your control that were sold as being high end, brutal. I come from a family of machinist and here is what I would recommend saving this boat and drive system. If you can find a local machinist, he could whip you up a couple shafts and modify the couplers with the correct threading (direction, depth and pitch). I would recommend having him thread the coupler the shafts go into with fine threads and make a new set of shafts to match. Fine pitch is far better at not self-loosening from spinning and vibrations and will avoid having your weak link be a thin pin. You could probably get this repair done for a fair price and improve the drive system. You got this brother.

[@jjs327-mn3gk]

You worked hard on this "B" so sorry to see this happen. You got this though and will get it right. good luck! can't wait to see it run.

[@rwardenutube]

Lost prop & flex cable on my madden on one of my boats too….argh! Expensive lesson!

[@RcBoatGang]

Yep me too on my brand new Impulse. The flex shaft broke right in the middle and lost the prop too....

[@EmilWilkensRC]

what is learned then? For it to be a lesson?

[@RcBoatGang]

@@EmilWilkensRC i made the gap between the drive dog and the strut ending way too tight I found out later I didn't leave anough of a gap :)

[@jermainebristol7902]

I had the exact same thing happen to me on a much smaller boat ..i know exactly how you feel ...

[@gord1131]

Hey b I would wait for a nice calm day and go swimming! I retrieved a prop and flex cable in 20ft of water at my fave boat spot!!! That little city pond can’t be more than 10-15 ft deep in the middle, get some snorkel gear and get your parts back! Also throw some green loctite on that and never have it come back off!

[@fierceflyer5]

I feel your pain B. No loctite is unacceptable, no replacement parts is even worse. But I know you will have a record breaking boat When it’s dun…again and right.

[@UlisesBatalla]

Listen the prop shaft fill out and fill out within about 7 to 20 ft of the shoreline and you were headed out on an angle I'm telling you I believe the pond is low enough for you to just go in either raw dog or with the waiters on and take a regular good old leaf rake not a stiff leaf rake you know the the fan style long one that comes with either plastic or the metal kind of rake that way you can hear a clink as you scrape along the bottom gently moving slowly through there. Just go back in the middle of the day and get it it's only about 7 to 20 ft in a straight line off of the shore. You did not lose the part when you made the turn.

[@terryperrott9913]

Question, could you drill the collar where the threads are ,drill & tap for a set screw - grub screw? If so, where the screw would be grind/ file a flat spot

[@combustionpropulsion4883]

I have the TFL Jet Boat and it's a blast. There are 2 big points of failure though. 1. The water pickup is not drilled out from the factory on the jet nozzle. The first time I ran the boat I nearly destroyed the ESC an motor because I didn't realize that it wasn't getting water. 2. The jet nozzle can NOT handle 4s. It works fine on 3s, but as soon as you try to run 4s it cracks along the edges.

[@markgambetta1704]

That sucks. I have had many. things like that happen. Glad to see you have the balls to let a company know when they are wrong.. I agree the Oxidine boats are definitely built way better than anything else. I would worry that if you drilled a pin through the shaft, it might weaken it and break. Definitely JB weld. unbelievable job on that build.

[@jamesbradley2698]

I tell everyone that wants to get into RC...you better be ready for disappointment and have the skills to build back. It's all part of the hobby. That totally sucks Big B!😮. Looking forward to seeing it run 🤘👍

[@RollingThunder808]

The pin idea is the way to go. I have a feeling even with red loctite it would come off eventually.

[@ninthislandrc]

I feel sorry for your loss...I REALLY do...as I had a similar thing happen. And, like you, I had no one to blame but myself. That, and another incident (with a land vehicle), taught me a valuable lesson - when dealing with ANYTHING that's an RTR or ARTR, as well as when installing anything having 'pre-built' components (such as a pre-built transmission, or (in your case) pre-built outdrive), ALWAYS disassemble (or, partially disassemble), to make sure everything was attached properly, everything was filled properly (such as pre-built shocks), and everything needing threadlocker is properly done. As for using retaining compound, that's probably NOT a good idea, as you'll never get those two parts apart, and the shaft could need to be replaced every so often. You could use red threadlocker, as that has the strongest hold, but it CAN (with heat) be removed. Alternately, you might want to check into orange threadlocker, from Permatex. It has a 'holding' strength almost a strong as red, but does not require heat to remove (it has a 'release' strength somewhat higher than blue). Orange threadlocker is a "happy medium" between blue & red - almost as strong as red, and parts are almost as easy to remove as when using blue. Getting to the two parts in question, true, it would be nice if TFL had designed/produced counter-threaded versions of parts 523B-43-04 (shaft) & 523B43-06 (not sure of the past name, but it's what the shaft is 'screwed' into)...but, unfortunately, such is not the case (I searched, trying to help you). But, using orange (or red) threadlocker (not retaining compound) will solve that, once you get a replacement shaft...and, speaking of that, I did find them in-stock, through TFL North America (a Florida-based business, similar to OSE). They can be found here: tflnorthamerica.com/product/tfl-replacement-shaft-arenson-drive-623843-04/ Best of all, the past is only $18. Now, get that boat fixed...we all want to see it running. 👍👍 😄

[@garywilkinson6832]

I never would have attempted taking it all apart.

[@kingdamiealderdice8413]

Dam i felt that

[@stevesocransky6341]

I own 4 TFL boats, THEY ALL NEED REDOING! New servo and Servo mount, throw out garbage seaking 180, and swap motor for one with proper kv. - cheetah xl- nitemare money pit, epoxy covered stinger mount, toss 2 piece shafts x 2 and seaking 180, clean and re epoxy slop. Swap in tp4060/1650 kv -Pursuit carbon -toss seaking 180, servo and mount , one piece shaft - Popeye , same -34” single cheetah - same and toss loose offset rudder with excess play and use tight no slop speed master 3 1/2” setback / 20 size rudder Outerlimits decent bit 1 piece shaft , upgrade servo and mount… TFL are good but rest has to be gone through

[@stevesocransky6341]

Sorry 5 tfl boats

[@ianreed4636]

I fly rc helicopters and we leave no stone unturned. I do not trust weather or not someone else put thread lock on any thread anywhere on a helicopter. You just lose a prop helicopters you lose the chopper. This could cost you anywhere from $300 to $2000 and up depending on the heli . Pretty sucky for that to happen ,but definitely a lesson learned. Can't wait to see that boat rip !

[@MrQuasar1958]

Ok , it’s like this , take off the offending coupling and weld up the threaded hole, then using a lathe tart up the weld, centre drill and re drill the hole THEN tap a left hand thread . If you can’t get a spare shaft , get some stainless steel rod and find a decent machine shop and get a new shaft made with the correct left hand threaded stub on the end . Complete ball ache though and TFL should foot the bill !! Complete and utter kick in the bollocks though !! I feel your pain😢

[@Captaraknospider]

I would sugest welding or soldering that part together. glue alone won't hold it.

[@CozyRC]

Ahh, too bad!! Here's an idea: get a strong magnet, attach it to a strong and long rope behind your tug, so it drags along the pond bottom. Run your tug in the same loop as your Ariane. You just did 1 loop, so there's a chance you find it!

[@IRONCLADRC]

@@CozyRC unfortunately nothing i lost is magnetic, stainless steel & beryllium non magnetic material

[@alkettle]

If the grub screw is magnetic, try rare earth magnets it might pick it up.

[@scaleworksRC]

Oof! Sorry your maiden didn't go as planned. I just lost my Oxidean 4519 prop yesterday, so I totally feel your pain but on a smaller scale. Those lessons hurt though! I was gonna ask you if you believe in cursed boats like the Titanic, but you explained the QC of TFL pretty well compared to the other guys out there. The thing that sets Bill apart is, he runs his boats, stands by his products, and communicates with his customer base! Yes, they are expensive.. but you're paying for quality 💯 ..haters can go suck eggs! Looks like you got a plan to get her Ironclad🦾✌

[@TheTkrum]

Don’t feel so bad having spent $2400 on my KBB Promarine MTR X2 with carbon layup, Lerhner motors, custom drives, lightweight rudder. 🙌

[@chriscarpenter4415]

Try using a cast net. You may get lucky and get it that way.

[@scottdearmond5532]

Need more information, because either the boat was set up from the factory to have both props rotating the same direction ? or there should be a right and left handed threads for counter rotation, or the design has some redesigning to be done ✅ Personally the design is lacking because I enjoy using reverse 🔄 without fear of the prop unscrewing and falling off. 😊

[@RDM3DLAB]

As I said When I FIRST saw this boat, I said it was gonna be a nightmare!! Sorry that happened to you!! That sucks!!! Not even a min on the water WTF!! I was looking forward to seeing this thing fly!! That's right, don't get mad, just make it better than it was

[@Sean.macfarlane]

I bought a Tfl cheetah xl and on my maiden the Teflon liner let loose causing my collet to unscrew. Lost my flex cable and expensive prop. Tfl has issues

[@rich420rc]

That flex shaft could have been saved with shaft savers collars. They are a cheap part that definitely saves you money.

[@mac305mia01]

Wouldn't work in this setup drive..

[@gillian9178]

The flex didnt come out of the boat, this is an entirly different design shaft system to the usual thing that happens when the flex comes out of the motor coupling. Where the whole flex/propshaft/dog & prop comes out to the bottom of the pond.

[@lamarw7757]

That prop came off close to shore. A waterproof metal detector could find it.

[@Captaraknospider]

compound on that fitting wouldn't have matered. seems to me they need a reverse drive option for that part. Probably that drive system isn't ment to be set up as a tandem drive.

[@predatorsolutionsofmichigan]

The water in that pond looks pretty clear. Can you put a boat or kayak in and try finding the prop and shaft. Probably not magnetic but seems like you would be able to see that big prop. I don’t blame you for being mad. Big bummer B. I feel for you brother.

[@H2oMechanic2RC]

If you could cut threads on the bigger 1/4" section just above the small thread area, you can put a nut on it & tighten the nut against the black ball cup. Thats what id try. Ive cut SS with a Dye, its slow but possible. Just spitballin ideas

[@christianrambissoon1141]

I never take apart anything RtR unless it breaks or is from a less reputable brand, I'll grease some diffs maybe... Sorry BB, some days just aren't ours as they say.

[@philipsparrow7977]

Big B. I had a Popeye some years ago as I mentioned to you quite a while back. When I received it I found the hatch was cracked, the stuffing tube was not resined at all, so water would have come straight into the hull. Apart from that, it became a favourite of mine. Point being I guess is check everything 'cos you can't trust the buggers.

[@Motorboatinsongun]

You should try your pool skimmer if not, rent a pump drain the damn pond lol

[@JANDRMARINE]

Really sad to see that happen. 😢 I don't have many good words to day about TFL. I Agree with you.. I've been waiting on an email response for 2 months from them and repeatedly followed up. 70% of their products come just fine out of the box The other 30% will leave you wanting to curse them out. I'm really sorry B. In regards to your question... Honest answer 3k spent.. I wouldn't even tighten a grub screw So fucking sad to see.

[@Wanted1069]

Id be out there on my hands and knees in the mud 💯

[@tribesilver4165]

my friend you should be able to recover almost everything in the mini lake. See this video of yours at 2:28 seconds. Look frame by frame and you will see the pieces coming out and sinking. it's 6 or 7 feet from the bank

[@frankbennett3264]

BIG B for president

[@fstrazzera1]

Rough day out 🤣🤙 had plenty of them, about to go run two tfls in windy conditions; 1124 ariane2 twin, and ose zonda, hoping not to wet rescue boat 😉🤞 those arneson drives look cool and absolutely over complicatedly unnecessary. My 1124 twin with stingers handles amazing for a heavy boat.

[@gillian9178]

I am surprised TFL didnt use left & right hand threads on those drive shafts/cups, not to mention where was the threadlocker on those threads anyway when TFL built the boat/hardware. Thats a bad design anyway on how those stub shafts attatch to the drive cups. I know its more money & work, but I think I would replace those Arnson drives with stingers & a rudder.

[@georgegonzalez9281]

Such a shame - so sorry this happened to you. I agree that it is absolutely unacceptable that the prop shafts aren't left and right threaded. Not even red thread lock would hold the shafts in place with that kind of horse power. I wonder if all TFL Arneson drives are standard clockwise threaded. That means that if you have a boat with a single Arneson drive, it would have the same issue because props spin counterclockwise. Maybe the boat is supposed to come with counter threaded universal yokes and shafts, but they screwed up at the factory and installed two clockwise threaded yokes. Who knows? Did Brian have the same problem with his boat? Another thing; those turn fins are way too pointy. I would round the tips off slightly because they are liability being so sharp and pointy. I have several TFL outboards and never had a problem with any of them. This might be an isolated issue - but hey, I feel your pain.

[@harleyguy932]

I really think the only right way to fix it is to reverse the threads on one of the shafts, in this case the left prop. Not ever sure how Youd do that on the "Cup" part.

[@SkyrayModels]

Man that sucks! We know just how pissed you are with that rant, it just shows how passionate you are about the hobby. I recently bought a lightly used TFL Pursuit off a friend, found that the fibreglass was very thin in the transom and both sides of the hull, so I light weight glass tissue'd the hull to add strength and gutted the drive to replace the 2 piece drive with a single 3/16 drive, fantastic handling boat, so I would recommend it. I probably would have been one of the few who would have stripped the drive completely, It needs a redesign for sure, maybe a 2mm hardened steel roll pin with "e" clips to guarantee the drive can't pull out, I used to build big rc helicopters so stripping and checking everything was normal good practice, because they will always want to shake themselves loose at some point.

[@Burnut62]

Get it drill and put in a grub screw, that should help

[@Mr.Blackhatt]

ahw man! that really sucks! aand if i ever get this drive... im gonna tig weldid that drive on there! loctite the sumofabish everything!

[@trh3047]

Yes it happen to A MHZ boat I have but it was my error ! I have the TFL Persuit and had no problem with it ! Its one of my favourite boats.

[@wesjames6276]

Wow.... I'd be just as pissed! You need to name this boat..... 'Problem Child'... or 'Troublemaker'... 'Troublemaker x 2'....

[@TheTkrum]

At 2:27 you can see the prop sticking up out of the mud. I wish I could send you a screen shot. I can see the prop perfectly in the mud.

[@MrQuasar1958]

Don’t think so cos at. 2:31 still had both props ! I think what you’re looking at here is a leaf on the surface 👀

[@VetteWay2Fast]

Wow I can’t believe one of those isn’t reverse threaded. No amount of loc tite is going to hold that on if the prop rotation isn’t tightening it. My Popeye has an issue where the prop and rear edge of rudder is at the same distance from hull and they conflict with each other and I have to really dial down the steering dual rate to avoid contact. Poor poor design. I’m bummed that happened to you man, so much work for that to happen.

[@Bc4z]

Longshafted rake and maybe maybe you will get the prop and shaft back, damn it sucks after all the hard work

[@portcitygrady]

Bro I felt that i'm so sorry Big B 😢 after you put all of your time money and love for this hobby into that boat bro. The truth is it's not your fault Big B just faulty parts. We know you know what you're doing. It just sucks big time on your maiden voyage. I know those props and parts are not cheap brother. Hopefully you can figure out what the mechanical issue is in a YMCA pool or something like that after you get your new props in so you can recover the parts. Im really sorry.

[@pken9814]

It looks like it fell off right around the second burst. Not sure how deep, if shallow enough. I bet if you walk it the same angle out ward, you could find it. Just by lightly sweeping your feet back and forth.

[@buckyhurford3424]

Such a bummer B. So sorry bud

[@cousineddie7444]

Those drives are made for gas motors... typically only run in 1 direction.

[@NotoriousoneRC]

Sucks to see, sorry for all the hard work, money, and time put into it. It looks like the shaft fell out at exactly 2:41 in the video, at that moment you hit the throttle as it was coming back to you, right in between the two islands. I have four TFL boats with normal flex cable drives and have had no issues.. I can’t believe they wouldn’t use opposite threaded shafts on those drives, that’s either a mistake or just a stupid design

[@marcandreasson87]

I feel the boat in the end will be a success / speed machine. Minor hiccup. Look forward to take 2. Feeling your disappointment.

[@Rsfpv]

Sry to see :( that you lost the axel and propp, but if you look back on the video , you can see when it stopped spinning on the right side, you sould be able to find the missing pice

[@mikebergman1817]

Look @2:35 you're only throwing one rooster tail. That prop is maybe 15 or 20 feet out. Get a magnet broom on an extendable pole and I'm thinkin you'll have your nice prop and outdrive shaft back pretty easy.

[@user-interestingguy]

sad to see, in the future you should probably put some heavy dudy lock tight on there to keep it tight

[@TargetingXmod_RC]

It's just like cars...when manufacters try to reinvente the wheel...you know 💩 is coming soon...sorry for your loss. Already done that path on some other rc boats of loosing props and normal shafts. Just buy new and it the water again...now reinforced 🎉

[@madmaxximus1234]

I feel your pa8n Big B!😢 Lost it at the 2:33 to 2:35, i would be giving it a go. You never know. you might get lucky.

[@eric3730151]

I feel for you Brother That should not of happened at all!! I hope thy send you the new parts for fee at the lest.

[@frederickgrassie3383]

So they have to both turn clockwise

[@TheRicsta]

Sorry to see B

[@frederickgrassie3383]

My ❤️ just sank for you😢

[@garywilkinson6832]

Im sure we all realize that you can’t be trashing boat companies out there but on this one B? They deserve some shade man. With all the items you listed that broke free inside the boat, that just shows how lax they were in assembly. Epoxy that breaks off that cleanly was applied before the surface was clean. It must have had some oil or Mold release or some contaminate there to inhibit a good bond. And for such an important part, the motor mounts? Really? Come on. That’s unacceptable to the highest degree. But,… it shows that they weren’t taking the time and extra effort to get it right. Thus all these parts breaking off, coming loose and un threading with a small amount of force. You were correct at 10 mins from the end of that vid buddy: NOBODY would take the time to disassemble such a complicated, supposedly RTR stern drive. Beautiful to look at! Hell, I was even thinking one day,…. Not now. I fly big beautiful scale RC planes but looking at those drives? That’s factory issues not user/consumer concerns. There’s my rant for today. Was really looking forward to seeing her go man. Not your fault B. Zero. Not even a bit. Final thought: would a magnet pick that prop up?

[@norcalrc]

Bro , you got shafted

[@fokkerfw]

That shaft should have been splined.

[@floydwells9860]

3 min 15 seconds in your video is that it in the water? Sorry this happened to ya and all, but I never take any rc out without going over them top to bottom no matter the brand. I've had a zonda with no issues what so ever. Never can be to careful good luck

[@stevesocransky6341]

Oh and TOSS those ARNESON DRIVES!!! That metal junk is nuttin but problems, install speed master stingers or look to MHZ of Germany for their ball bearing drives , I have a MHZ 53” mystic cat and a Manfred Kulz 58” fountain both very high end builds, well over $3k each, the hardware is beautiful, makes TFL and speedmaster hardware look very basic

[@olympA310]

Salut et bien là c'est un manque de chance de perdre cette pièce dès le début 🫣 Moi sur mon UL19 drag c'est plutôt les arbres qui cassent et j'en casse un paquet tellement il y a de couple moteur et hélice mais bon ça s'appelle la passion 😜😋😁👶🚲🛴🇨🇵☀️💦🤔

[@MikeGray-ct6hb]

U went in waste deep after the tunnel jet in the middle of February, I'm surprised u didn't go in and get that driveline, water is probly a little warmer rite now lol. Man that sucks bro, u been working hard on that thing. I feel your pain dude. Quality control was definately lacking FOR SURE! It's not up to the consumer to make sure it's built properly. If I bought that boat, I would have pulled it out the box, threw sum grease and a battery in it and run that bitch, just like 99% of most other people. Don't blame yourself buddy. BG4L

[@hmz6535]

Those things should've been set screwed in. What kind of shaft securing system is this; especially on a powerful set up like this. What did they expected; for tread sealant to hold it together? Please; they should've known better!

[@fokkerfw]

Go get that prop and shaft. It's left of that bouy

[@RickyD1968]

Hey IRONCLAD RC All you need is this Boat The ( Super Sonicwake 48" 8S Self-Righting Brushless Deep-V RTR ) when anybody purchase's this Boat you will Save a lot of money when it comes to purchasing the fiber glass and carbon fiber Boats that you do not need plus they are not self righting and then with the money you just saved you will be able to purchase another Boat and then call it a money saving day !!!!!!!!!!

[@mudcud]

So you're starting to drink early today

[@PatriotBrad]

those should have had jam nuts as well. with both the same thread one is always going to bias wanting to come unthreaded. Bad design other than it was cheap for them to make both the same.

[@tabmurry]

TFL should be scrambling to make this right. This video is a bad advertisement for them

[@gen3v8]

WTF...TFL

[@chriscastiglione7679]

Why not drill a hole in it and put a Cotter key in it

[@alkettle]

TFL just got fired. What a disappointment pathetic

[@CreativeRcVai-s8f]

Heart broken 😢

[@BlackSwarm]

If I picked up that boat I would have never got as far as you did. That is not a good boat for a new person in RC

[@jimstone5339]

So sorry this happened to you, you in no way were at fault. But I have a pursuit and it is one of the best running and driving boats i own. It's not the self recovery. Those don't drive as nice. But because of you i tore the whole boat apart and loktightened everything on it before it even touched the water as i do with all my new boats. But on your boat tfl dropped the ball and is going to lose a lot of sales because of this video and they deserve it. On the lighter side maybe you should take up snorkeling, you'd be rich with all the stuff you've lost in that pond😅

[@mikehagquist5198]

It’s like it was designed for single drive. Tfl just added 2drives and never engineered it to work. Crazy dumb.

[@peteroosterhoff8850]

Jeeeezzzz... About that drive, wouldn't do a pin in it. I feel like it's a small tread already to put on much power. Dont know brand or anything, i have a green thin "Loctite" (like to call it iron glue for flexshafts) which only comes loose with some serious heat. I totally agree it should have been factory glued but these stupid things happen unfortunately. Best example is friend bought a new truggy. The first 6 runs nothing but trouble. Parts breaking, let loose, diff blew twice (no oil), electronics desoldered etc... Come on, its a truggy, made for racing/bashing, how can you sell it like that..? I would give tfl definitely a change to redeem itself with for instance the pursuit. I think at half the price of a Dominator that is a nice boat, and upgraded and reworked by you even a good compatitor. Personally the m34(?) would be my choice if i lived in States, but that's something else. I really looked forward, like you, to see the tfl run, and see how the drives would hold up, cause think it has lot of moving parts... Hopefully you get everything sorted out man, this sucked BIG TIME...!!!

[@marxboatworx]

Doesn’t make sense!! To me sounds like TFL has fitted 2 normal threaded universals on this boat …surely they would have a matched pair- counter and clock wise threads… for counter rotating shafts.. shouldn’t have to rely on glue or pins to stop that drive coming out!! So disappointed for you loosing that prop..aggghhhh

[@MrQuasar1958]

Looks like big B is going to need a blood transfusion before long , and so is the CEO of tfl if big B gets hold of him 😖

[@PatriotBrad]

Please get the popeye. Its a bastard of a boat to tune so you would be the guy figure it out though! Get the bare hull version and not ARTR

[@mikehaberski4596]

One friggan trigger pull & one of them was bound to come out 👎

[@mikehaberski4596]

Damn thought was gona be first ya wtaFu-k lol these boats are just jinkst just plain jinkst omg wtf wow did u look at the exploded view omg are u kidding me dude gona need stiches 😱i thought id seen the hardest to swallow vid or thread last nite a guy took 2 1/16th rc cars & bolted them together & made a speedrun rig & it onlyhad 2850 moters one on the front & one on back independent😂but this,this….is a tough one bro so sorry for both you all’s luck for real sooooii sorry🥲

[@wallacem610]

Man that socks and I'm sorry but I damn sure would blame the company cuz u should have never had to check that who the he'll would

[@fokkerfw]

TFL failed. Pour Design

[@SnapperHeadUnlimited]

Why did you not purchase the items through Offshore Electrics?