Is Aftermarket Motorcycle Suspension Worth The Money?

[@static369]

Swapping out the stock springs to one that matched my weight solved 99% of my issues. As well as servicing them with fresh oil and a new rubber bumper thingy. Mine bike was a zzr1400.

[@salami99]

same with a talaria sing r the factory spirng was for a 270 lb person! wtf these oems doing to us

[@exothermal.sprocket]

Spring rate is crucial. It assumes the natural starting point of the front and rear when you're seated and the surface is billiard smooth. Preload comes next, which determines whether the shock can damp the motion in BOTH directions because a motorcycle both un-weights, and weights as it travels along. You should have enough sag to allow un-weighting (wheels extend to touch the ground on the other side of a bump), otherwise you go airborne. THE ONLY JOB OF THE SPRING IS TO SUPPORT THE WEIGHT, to achieve the CORRECT SAG POINT of a given bike and rider. That is it. The spring's job is to return all that mass back to "home" no matter what undulating surface you're riding over. Damping does all the rest of the work of controlling motion.

[@SoulTouchMusic93]

Yeah same for cars. Most people don't know the suspension wears out. My Honda was sitting 5cm higher after swapping out the 20yo suspension and it didn't drive far off from my brand new car. Most people compare old oem suspension vs brand new aftermarket.

[@exothermal.sprocket]

A spring is basically a torsion bar, wrapped into a coil. The "bar" twists and un-twists over bumps. Eventually fatigue will relax that "bar" and it won't do its job anymore. A spring isn't fatigued from something sitting on it, but from cycles of torsion, which eventually take the zing out of the metal.

[@jomunoz]

You are brave, getting this video out to people that always have an opinion on motorcycles, but probably have never own a sports bike.

[@JPWest020]

Just get the right spring for your weight for the Bitubo. Obviously that’s the problem with the shock.

[@aluisious]

I also would have turned the clickers for rebound and compression to fully soft to see how it felt like that on the street. I've had a suspension pro set up my bike for the street, and it was hard. I dropped all the preload out of the fork, 40% of the preload out of the shock, and it's been a peach for 38k miles.

[@jrgenbjrklund3720]

@@aluisious Should rather just put it to the stock setting with the right spring.

[@ncgriso]

Have you looked at fitting the standard spring to the bitubo shock? That would (might) improve the spring rate issue. If it's already running an Ohlins spring there's a good chance they are interchangeable. You might get a great solution at no cost other than the labour...

[@ChaosCauses]

That's a great idea! I never stopped to think if they would be the same size. I'll have a look- thanks!

[@deweysturgill6220]

​​@@ChaosCauses the numbers on the ohlins spring indicate it's length, diameter, and rate. You can look on racetechs site and get the dimensions for the r1 spring and see what spring rate is recommended for your weight and usage. I grafted the Yamaha shock on to a Firestorm with an ohlins spring and it is a better shock than my ktech razor lR on my MT. It's actually a pretty good shock for off the shelf. The bitubo will hsve a better piston design, but it is prob valved for track and his weight which would mean a lot heavier(stiffer) high speed dampening.

[@AaronP220]

Both OEM and aftermarket shocks are capable of having their springs swapped. Having a rear sprung for your weight and a front that’s not is like wiping before you poop - it doesn’t make sense. They must be balanced for your weight and skill level.

[@ncgriso]

No warranty expressed or implied! I have a vintage Tonti framed Guzzi from 1973. On standard shocks the "jacking" from the staff drive, as you brake into a roundabout, was scary. I fitted basic (not fully adjustable) Ohlins and the change was unbelievable. It's the progressiveness and control, perhaps, but they really do deliver. Are they better than great OEM? I don't know, but they are the benchmark.

[@thewatcher5271]

You're Right, If They Interchange, It's The Best Solution To This Problem. Thank You. (Like #16 - Reply #4)

[@igoradsilva]

Perhaps the difference between them is not about the feel. Maybe it's about the durability, or maybe it's about how well it handles different ambient conditions (like if it doesn't misbehave in very wet or very good conditions)

[@briansanchez9899]

The main thing is that high end bikes already have good suspension, the difference is more noticeable with low end bikes

[@Daniel-dj7fh]

Yeah I don't think the stock R1 shock will bust any time soon either.

[@aluisious]

Your shock doesn't know how wet the ground is.

[@Daniel-dj7fh]

@@aluisious He means the combination of the bike with the shock.

[@franklinwilkerson2061]

You absolutely would have to do this comparison with both shocks with the correct spring and set up with at least sag/preload set. The better shocks have much better damping because the way the oil is forced through those tiny holes is more involved and precise. You also need to test in the same weather. Rain setup is completely different than dry. I did spend far too much time staring at my Ohlins suspension though. Tires are more important than a foo foo shock.

[@brentcollins9727]

He had the track shock on the bike for four months. I imagine there were plenty of sunny days.

[@aluisious]

How is oil "involved?"

[@brentcollins9727]

@@aluisious , oil is in the small side reservoir and acts as a damper, slowing the pogo stick effect.

[@mandrakejake]

​@@aluisious generally speaking the valving on an aftermarket race shock like this will be more complex than that found in the stock unit.

[@Daschickenify]

​@@brentcollins9727 Actually, that reservoir will be probably half full of nitrogen, separated with a rubber bladder or floating piston, and the other half full of oil. There is also oil in the shock body, the same stuff flows throughout the whole shock. The reservoir allows more oil and nitrogen capacity and allows things to run cooler. The Bitubo will have fancier adjusters, hopefully with the rebound adjuster set up to only change rebound damping and not also stiffening compression like many simpler shocks do. Otherwise, they work in very similar ways, using a piston blocked off by flexible shims that bend further with faster suspension movement, allowing more oil flow.

[@comfysofa1549]

Subjective......personally id never tried "goog suspension" - but took the plunge on my old RSV4 factory with already installed oem ohlins and went for NiX30 fronts and a TTX mk2 rear (which was amazingly cheap and almost new) - ive never been on a race track and a comlete novice but my only description i can give was when pushing it "the hard you ride...the more compliant it becomes"....im glad i upgraded and feel that it was worth the money.

[@Anonnymouse53]

Setup and maintenance is everything. Once your stock shock is old & tired you could get it rebuilt and setup by someone who knows what they are doing... but for a little more you can get a brand new one that's setup for you by the factory.

[@Qassu78]

I'd go through the process of tuning that Bitubo to suit my riding and weight. It takes some time as you actually need to do it twice, the track and street setups are different. But, you'll be totally fine with that original shock too. It does have wider operating range so it'll be much easier to setup for mixed riding and it does have enough tuning range for most of the riders. In your forks, keep the Bitubo cartridges, just change the springs to the correct stiffness for your weight. That's something you may have to do for the original cartridges too as the original springs are pretty stiff. I have a -09 Fireblade and during this winter I'm going to upgrade the front suspension with at least a bit softer springs.

[@NeveMindAnything]

The best sunday afternoon entertainment!

[@ssc1348]

Hi, I'm really loving the shock absorber series. It's one thing that we motorcyclists experience the least variety of. I feel my bikes rear suspension is stiff for me. I can feel each undulation on the road surface through the rear suspension. The ride quality is always busy. I was under the impression that aftermarket suspensions, if setup correctly, are good at absorbing sharp bumps whilst providing very good handling and stability in corners, which made them so expensive. But this video was a revelation for me, and helped me understand that an expensive aftermarket suspension does not necessarily mean comfort. I'm confused again. It's hard to find a bike the same model as you own which has aftermarket suspension setup which can be test ridden. And aftermarket suspensions are not inexpensive either for trial and error. Now I'm confused again 🙂. I hope you make more videos on suspensions, their setups, the detailed physics behind why each setting performa the way it perform and the factors with with which a beginner can judge the feel of a suspension setup. Thanks!

[@christiansacra599]

I’ve swapped the rear shock on an 09 GSXR 750 and a 11 GSXR 750, both have really made a difference imo. Suzuki kinda skimps on suspension and brakes though so it naturally would. I put a Penske on 09 and K-tech on the 11, both bought second hand on eBay and set up for me professionally. I feel I have better control of the bike on road and track

[@HawkEyeMonkey]

A well tuned suspension does wonders people, learn how to measure and set up your preload/sag settings. And learn how to fidle with rebound and compression. Davemoss has great content on this, he's a suspension guru.

[@jessevvilsteren]

The way its Setup makes a huge difference, getting it tuned to ur specific Weight makes such a difference.

[@greyanaroth]

Man, a wrongly sprung shock is very jarring, especially for lighter riders. I went down 2 spring rates on the stock Öhlins on my rsv4 factory. And wow, the difference was massive. You may want to hit up your local bitubo dealer or get in touch with the parent company for a different valve stack + spring for your riding and feel the difference. It SHOULD glide over surface imperfections while giving you great support for track riding.

[@aesamalam3391]

My goodness, watching this was therapeutic, the exhaust 🤌🤌

[@Mageer82]

For the road, Yamaha stock suspension is good enough with some tweaking. I replaced the rear shock spring and went with a thicker fork oil and it transformed my XSR 900.

[@rafaellastracom6411]

A suggestion for you. Usually you can remove the rear shock by simply placing a jack sitting between the top of the rear tire and under the tail/subframe. This unloads the bikes weight over the tire and as you remove the shocks mounting bolts you can simply remove the shock with the rear tire in place. Keep in mind you would have to use the jack to separate and reach the shocks unloaded length to do so.

[@vito1064]

I tend to use stock parts on my track bikes until I reach their limits. on my 1995 yzf750r stock shock and fork springs were fine for my weight and pace, on a "newer" 1999 R1 they were hopeless so I had to change them. my advice would be to learn the basics of suspension setting and try to tune what you have before spending money on something you may not need

[@Buckinghammocks]

The flybys were awesome!

[@haste953]

Great video, tbh for average rides who do 99% of riding on the road, electronic suspension (if possible) is the best as you can change at any time. For hardcore racers, you still want all the adjustments that electronic and stock suspensions don't give you.

[@wiggenvan]

I mean, I know you kind of recognized it’s not a fair comparison, but I don’t know if you recognize how much. To at all compare the two, they need to be set up the same, with the same spring rate. Even a stock shock may not be set up properly for an individual, and you may have to swap springs. Stock springs don’t have a weird quality to make them applicable to a wider variety of weighted riders. You didn’t actually compare anything, except that if you don’t set up your suspension, you might have no idea how much better or worse it could ride. The fact that you kept comparing between stock and aftermarket makes me think you don’t see the full gravity of setting it up. At the very LEAST, one should set up pre-load, but did you even change any settings on that? Set up is also not just for the dimensions of the rider, but rider style and skill. You should really have someone with a lot of knowledge help you set both up, and then see what you think.

[@ArmaQ666]

New right spring can fix it for less than 100€ :)

[@ChaosCauses]

But stock is free...🤔

[@mathieusynnott8915]

put stock spring in Bitubo shock.

[@gvybin]

I am no trackrider , but I played with suspension enough to learn that everything starts with the right springforce. If you have the sag (front and rear)with your own weight right , without having to change the preload to the extreme ( preload doesn't stiffen your spring, it just sets your rideheight front/rear to level the bike), then and only then, you are good to move on to setting damping and rebound. SO , an expensive rearshock with the wrong spring for your weight, will never be good. On the other hand, some OEM springs on bikes are way to soft for the average rider. Example, I changed the rearspring on the rearshock of my Tiger Sport 1050 to match my weight and did the same with the frontsprings (lineair hyperpro's). So I changed nothing to the damping or different valving. I got the sag perfect front and rear. Setting up the stock damping ( rebound and compression was easy after that) I got a 10 times beter suspension for very cheap. I think that the only way to have a fair comparison is to have the right spring on both OEM and aftermarket.I also think , that for the average, non track rider, having the right spring will do it for most of us , that is , if the OEM spring is already a decent damper, with possibility to set compression and rebound and with fresh oil. Congrats on your videos. great to watch and respect for the work done

[@JoaquimGonsalves]

5:44 pro slow speed skill bro! 🤩

[@MotoDash1100]

TL;DW , If you have a Honda CRF300L (Rally), then yes.. it's 100% worth it. (Kidding about TL;DW, def watch this, good shit as always)

[@TheLiddleBigChannel]

The spring is the first port of call according to your weight and later the way you ride the bike. A spring with a higher spring rate will require different damping setting and/or oil and/or valving to work better. Performance shocks and performance cartridge fork inserts are built to spec with correct spring rate and damping circuit changes for a given application. You're a light guy so stock suspension will work fairly well for you but you might still need to change spring rates. Front an rear suspension affect each other so you might change the cartridges at some point as well.

[@anirudhapavashe]

CC in the left rear view was a nice touch 😉

[@andrewbecker3700]

In my experience, the factory suspension on most bikes is designed for riders of average size. If your under 150, or over 200lbs. You should get the correct springs for your weight. That will solve 90% percent of problems, without much else being changed. Now, if your planning to use the bike in a way that's so far out of the factory suspensions range. That you feel the need to replace it all? You've almost certainly chose the wrong motorcycle. It's just that simple. Sure there's exceptions. But I see way too many people pouring money into their bike. On parts that in many cases, are completely unnecessary. Your better off starting on the proper machine. Then blowing your life savings trying to get some completely ill equipped bike to perform way outside its intended range. That's my 2 cents. Peace!

[@HamzaFaruqui]

Just change the spring on the Bitubo. Street shocks can have let's say 15 clicks of adjustment, and a more expensive shock can have the same amount of clicks. But if you compare the two of them on a shock dyno, the 15 clicks on the stock shocks will amount to about 5 to 8 clicks on the professional grade shock. That's the real difference in these shocks. You have a bigger range of adjustment. Also how well isolated each setting is from one another. if you have high and low speed damping adjustments, on an inferior shock, making changes to one will have significant changes to other (that's when you resort to re-shimming or re-valving), but on a more sophisticated setup, this overlap of effects is reduced considerably.

[@stefanhansen5882]

Interesting experiment and great with another perspective than the all-too-common "expensive = better".

[@808Affliction]

Yesss I have a 2019 R1 and I feel like the stock shock after dailed in to my weight is good for me.

[@AaronP220]

On track - aftermarket suspension is beyond its worth if it’s sprung correctly and you know how to adjust it or have access to someone that knows what they’re doing. On the street - properly set up stock suspension is more than enough for 99.95 riders as long as it’s sprung and set up correctly. They’ll never admit it - saying the suspension is their limitation on the street but that’s just ego saying they require top tier track suspension. I believe the Bitubo has high and low speed compression and rebound where the stock R1 unit does not. Try closing the rebound 2-3 clicks and opening the compression 2-3 clicks on the Bitubo and I bet you’ll stop getting kicked out of the seat.

[@slimbrady7512]

Envious of where you live, great weather, smooth roads, & no traffic!

[@matthewmcdonald9107]

My dood is a real rider, testing his suspension in the rain! 🌧️

[@donkeizluv]

I dont think I ever have enough suspension in my riding career, so yea its worth every penny

[@ashtonmariefranklin1981]

The thing is the Aftermarket suspension on your new 2 you used bike is setup for the orginal owner. If you get the suspension settings adjusted for your weight and riding style it will definitely be a whole lot better than the factory setup. Comparing the factory shock with factory spring against the Aftermarket shock which very likely has a spring rating setup for the orginal owner of the bike and also the valving would be tailored to their weight and riding class. I'd spend a little bit of coin and get the forks and shock properly setup for your weight and riding style.

[@exothermal.sprocket]

It's taken me many years to wrap my mind around what a shock is supposed to do, how that translates to the ride. And really, it's not that complicated, you just have to be able to separate principles in your mind. Not everyone is able to visualize and conceptualize physics and dynamics in their mind. Spring rate (x amount of pounds results in x amount of compression distance): crucial. Has to do with your riding weight (your flesh and all your suited-up gear self, total). This will control the RANGE of your suspension motion. Crucial to set the shock length (pro-squat behavior under throttle application, or anti-squat behavior under throttle application; it has to do with the relationship between your counter-sprocket, your rear axle, and the swing-arm pivot as a triangular geometric feature). Crucial to adjust the spring preload after a correct spring rate was chosen, to make sure sag is correct and the damping mechanisms can do their job properly. Damping "circuits" are merely orifices that control the resistance of oil flowing through them. Compression damping: In quality systems, this is usually controlled in 2 ways, "high speed" and "low speed". The speed has nothing to do with your speedometer. Speed is the rate of velocity that a bump in the road SMASHES your shock. High speed stuff is that which smashes the shock quickly. Low speed stuff would be like cruising over a set of rollers on a highway like a roller-coaster, weighting and unweighting the bike in undulation. High speed is those sharp edged expansion joints on the interstate that threaten to toss you off the motorcycle as they hit FAST and HARD. Rebound damping: After compression of any velocity is finished, rebound damping is the rate at which all the stored energy in the spring is released back to the preset amount (extended). Too quick, and the ride is harsh and bucky. Too slow and the ride is harsh and bucky. Not to confuse any of this with a spring rate that's just too firm (you should have already taken care of this before purchasing anything else). Ultimately a professional can examine a rear tire and tell you how well, or how poorly your shock is operating by the patterns of the rubber. This is easier on racetrack where the wear happens more quickly. A high quality shock with 4-way adjustment (spring preload, high and low speed compression damping, and rebound damping) with the correct spring rate will make a big difference over any OEM shock that has LESS capability. Depending on the bike, this might be moderately improved or drastically improved, it all depends on what you're starting with. All the same principles apply to the forks (high and low speed compression damping, rebound damping, and spring preload). Get a quality suspension with the correct spring rates, LIGHTWEIGHT WHEELS, and all of it adjusted to your riding conditions and preferences, and you'll be blown away how amazing it feels. You'll have much better confidence, much better traction in all conditions, more control entering and exiting corners, and your tires will wear evenly and less. You'll experience less fatigue on rides as your butt will glide over the surface instead of ping-pong and judder off everything.

[@alexduey7868]

I do think a lot of people never even bother to try and adjust thier shocks or forks something as simple as changing oil weight makes a big difference

[@bryansuperduke1290r]

I hope your getting the correct spring fitted while the shock is out?

[@MotoB8]

That bike is sick man

[@dougiequick1]

I am is kinda the same situation except with my "naked R1"/2023 MT-10 I weight 165 and the stock shock seemed like a rock to me. So I purchased a slightly used Nitron R3 racing shock advertised by seller to fit either an R1 or MT-10 He had a really bad back and had tried to fix suspension with the Nitron R3 tuned from fatory to him but it was still way too stiff so he sent it out to be resprung and revalved by another suspension shop (Nitron US shut down) and he says it was still too stiff so $1800 later he sold it to me complete with original heavier spring for around $700 including shipping. It was a pain to install as I still have full stock cat system but finally I swapped it out....my bike was wonky in fast twisties but I discovered it was mostly due to the Pirelli tires I had tried which although the identical numerical size of 190/55 rear IS significantly taller. by I think 10mm ...so anyway I played with the settings putting everything in the middle and it was better but still wonky....I also lowered the bike on the forks by 5mm? (one line) and played with front rebound (I have no idea what I am doing) but the huge change came did come when I finally I replaced the rear Pirelli with a lower profile tire similar to the original S22 and WOW! WHAT a difference! Wonky stuff GONE...is it the new shock at all? I think partly at least because originally the bike was like a rock and now it is supple The wonky part was the tire all along though I THINK idk but it is better than ever since new for me...I HATE suspension crap! What I HATE is I cant really even push the bike down like the suspension guru Dave Moss shows on videos....I should have bought the MT-10SP I guess with electronic suspension idk

[@neleffub6636]

Well the mt07 have rebound or the other i dont remember what right now. its the 2014-2017 that dont have it. And the after market you can adjust springs as you said and aslo shims inside to make it feel diffrent with oil change in it. Use a other type of oil for you, change spring and change the shim stacks inside it. Its a lot you can do to make it feel like you wanna it to feel and perform.

[@WholesaleTurbos]

swap the stock spring as a start, set the static sag and see what the rider sag is, it might still be too stiff for you. Low speed is all the small bumps, high speed is sharp bumps and hard throttle. You will most likely need more rebound going down a rate or 2, if your forks are right already, you can use how fast it sets on the fork when you let off and turn in, too much rebound will make it feel slow to turn in as the rear is sucked down. If you start backing into corners, its too fast. Some yamaha springs are Ti. Often the stock high speed doesnt do much

[@Sporadic_r1]

in short terms. Stock Suspension are good for normal use, if you are a very fast rider on track, you will definetly notice a big difference

[@damianocurati8728]

Mate, try a softer spring on that bitubo! Probably as a race package it has a 90/95kg spring, probably swap for an 85kg would help a lot

[@Sporadic_r1]

oh and by the way, the issues you mention are just a setup thing. if intrested i can explain to you very simply how you setup the suspension for yourself :)

[@CHAPNOE]

Holy Crap your R1 sounds really good

[@OfficiallyAKS]

Keep it up Bro.

[@Metalwolf765]

I had my stock stuff resprung and revalved for me, my gear, and a full backpack. It was night and day better, I weigh twice what the average Japanese rider does, so not really a surprise. If your shim stack and springs are correct, you’ll have a hard time telling the difference between the two.

[@ibidu1]

If you decide to go stock on the front forks and swap out the cartridges im interested in buying it

[@davidmoore_723]

Would have been a better test if you had the proper spring weight for each setup. This test with the wrong spring in both does not indicate the stock shock is better. The spring weight is likely closer for your weight and why you enjoyed it more on the street. Get the right spring in the Bitubo and re-test and re-post!!

[@MakerAventuras]

Stock suspension on modern bikes are really good, specially on sport bikes. I raced 2 years with my Yamaha R6R 2006 and had 0 problems other than being ahit at setting my suspension hahaha. An aftermarket suspension is better ON A RACETRACK if properly adjusted for your wheight and riding style. But you have to be a very very good rider to be able to squeeze that much out of an R6 or R1. I was middle of the grid so, the standard suspension was more than enough for me. On the street? Anyone with an ohlins is just a poser throwing away money. There is not enough grip or speed to justify the difference.

[@multitaskchef]

Nice comparison. I’m a big guy so the suspension has to be set up right. The less tighter spring wld be better for you.

[@Chrisgroot19]

Having the Bitubo, I would go for the right spring and setup the bike to your weight. At least now you have the chance to do it rather inexpensive. Like you said, you wouldn’t consider it when the bike had stock suspension. So don’t pass up this opportunity.

[@leadsled8961]

Put the stock spring on the Bitubo shock.

[@Googie6767]

I bought a brand new Bitubo with remote reservoir for my 600rr. Within two months it had no rebound damping at all. Pretty disappointing. Not easy to find a Bitubo tech where I live. I stick with Ohlins now.

[@jamest5149]

I would guess the reason you haven’t fallen in love’ with the suspension set up… you are not a big bloke and you are not riding hard enough to get suspension working as it should…. A respring and set up session and possibly a revalve. Go to someone that gives suspension setup, explain how you ride… road, not that fast/hard, with your weight, setting sag suspension travel and then valving and you will be surprised at how much better and plusher the suspension can be.

[@thorstenmetalhead9666]

Please try to swap the stock spring onto the biturbo shock. Than set all the dials to the middle and try if it fit's you better...

[@piyush9513-u9w]

your r1 needs some carbon fiber winglets for better looks

[@brendonsmith5836]

Awesome video, please consider making a video on the cf moto 450 mt.😁

[@HonzaLancer]

Lets be honest...90% of ppl who buy this premium components have them just for brag rights. I was one of them, i have always need the "best" version you know...SP, Factory, RS...RR... but truth is im so average rider i just wont feel the difference. For the first time i have bike with just regular suspension from oem and i cant tell the differene between ohlins on my previous tuono. From now if it is servicable then im fine with basic suspension. Maybe there are some skilled riders who can actually take advantage from better suspension but i think 90% ppl cant tell difference.

[@calmrider5173]

Recoil and rebound 😂😂😂😂😂

[@joelthemole3020]

Your aftermarket shock spring was probably too stiff, but also you could have improved it a lot by reducing the preload, and probably reducing compression damping too. Watch some Dave Moss videos on suspension tuning: www.youtube.com/@catalystreactionsbw the short version is you need to start off setting up the spring with about 25-33% rider sag, as in from the suspension completely unloaded (lifted) to with you in gear on the bike it should be using 1/4-1/3 of its suspension travel front and rear. Next is setting rebound damping to reduce spring oscillation, without reducing the reaction time of the suspension. You do this by bouncing the suspension as hard as you can by pushing it down hard then releasing it to naturally top out and see what happens. Your goal is to have the suspension quickly return back up to the top and stop, with no bouncing (spring oscillation), or as little bouncing as possible. If it bounces you need more rebound damping, if it returns up slowly you need less rebound damping. Last is compression damping, there is a LOT to get into with compression damping, too much to get into here, but as a baseline on a street bike you want to make sure you are at least not completely bottoming out the suspension and getting dangerously bounced, and compression damping can assist with that. So if you have some way to track your max suspension travel when riding, like a zip tie around a fork tube, and zip tie around the shock piston rod or some sort of collapsing telescopic magnet in the back, you can start off off with the compression damping backed way off and see how much of your suspension travel you are using. As a baseline for the street you don't want to be using more than maybe 80-90% suspension travel on a normal basis, so you always have some on tap for when you slam into that unexpected pothole or chunk of timber that flies out of the work truck in front of you on the expressway. So if you see you are constantly only using half your suspension, back off the compression damping and make it a bit more compliant, if you are constantly riding the edge of bottoming out your suspension, increase your compression damping and maybe consider new springs. Generally speaking when you go to stiffer springs you need more rebound damping and less compression damping, and when you go to lighter springs you need less rebound damping and more compression damping. I hope that helps your suspension adventure, good luck!

[@chrisdadigger1018]

You got balls riding in rain like that . But I guess where you live it rains a lot and you have no choice but get used to it 👍

[@motoyamasnigglepuff8654]

Yes they are every penny... Great film again! Brappp

[@bigjohnsonbird]

1MIN MY LUCK IS NUTS

[@LeeTillbury]

Your rear axle nut is supposed to be on the right hand side dude

[@devilsreject320]

I dress to the left myself. Is this not standard?

[@duncandehulst2016]

The R1 looks soooo ducking good

[@Daniel-dj7fh]

You could get the Bituba set up for you, and then do this test again with stock and Bituba

[@Daniel-dj7fh]

Bitubo*

[@Bow-to-the-absurd]

I do not automatically associate expensive Ohlins with 'better' Some people may be surprised by this.

[@lorisgennarini86]

I see you're using some Berik boots? How are they?

[@s_damen4140]

If the biggest difference left is the spring, isn't the best value for money upgrade to swap the spring on your stock setup?

[@JoshPhillips7781]

Every aftermarket shock I've bought they ask which weight I want it sprung for. Get the right spring and then redo this video.

[@tomzxr79]

on track for you the bitubo is dangerous setup like this.

[@UtkarshNarayana]

Love from india brother 😊😊

[@Hondadude46]

Hi, interesting test in my opinion. Like you say, are you going on track or driving on road? And also how often do you really adjust? Think about it! Me, not that many times in 30 years with the same bike😮😬😊😂

[@nikabelashvili2037]

I watched your video about Aprilia RS125. Can you take video about Honda NSR125 JC22 too? I think it's intereting too. These two motorcycle are most famous two stroke motorcycles I think

[@chrismorrison3298]

Would your best option not be to put the stock spring on the aftermarket shock?

[@Joke89ful]

Would you recommend upgrade on MT 07 stock suspension?

[@yojimbo21]

Yes.

[@Floxiiik]

3:39 japanese brembo? Dont insult brembo like this good suspension is always worth it. It's a day and night difference

[@AxiDent-lh7ut]

A spring is not expensive ... buy the right spring for your weight and type of riding for the Bitubo . It will perform exactly the same every ride regardless of temperature. It will not fade and get softer on a trackday due to heat (thinner oil). IF the standard spring fits the Bitubo it will feel just like the stock damper . Get it measured it might be wrong aswell (but feel better) The correct spring for ANY bike is the best investment you can make (and cheap) and a bike with tuned suspension is more comfy , safer , and faster than a engine tuned bike with a cool exhaust . Prio list : 1 GOOD gear and expensive helmet for the rider. 2 Suspension. 3 Brake setup. 4 tune 5 exhaust ..... and NEVER EVER on the list STUBBY ANODIZED levers !!! 😮😅

[@jonhewitt3]

Now it's off the bike, sell it

[@bigbadwolf6644]

Hmm it seems that you need another bike then- for track only where u can use that shock.

[@ChaosCauses]

Haha the more bikes the better

[@luiscardozo0000]

the sound of r1 to me is horrible but i love the bike

[@gunaseger]

It’s all depends on how deep is your pocket😅but stocks are crap😂 after market 100x better 😊

[@luiscardozo0000]

regulation is not for me cause im too peeky and always changing something a little bit so i became crazy ...i prefer the old style with no regulation

[@v_stands_for_value124]

I just got a Hornet 919, my shock is probably shit compared to that thing but feels more than ok so idk

[@jpiccari]

Complains about stiff suspension while rolling around with 3cm or more of preload. Also, doesn't like how bouncy, but won't bother to turn the tension/rebound adjuster. I'm all for stock suspension, but not even touching the obvious settings seems like such a lost opportunity.

[@TsuZer0]

1 minutes ago is crazy

[@jamest5149]

Looks like who ever adjusted that Bi-tubo rear shock was an ape and used a hammer and punch instead of a C spanner 🤦‍♂️

[@mattman3495]

Bravo

[@ts03227648]

Seem like your brake fuel time to replace.

[@skippityblippity8656]

these can be adjusted and that you did not do what a waste of your and own time

[@Unmethicated]

for a motorcycle channel thats been around for years there is still an awful lot of ignorance on mechanical things 🤣suspension, you get spring weight for the bike + rider and set it up for what type of riding you do. Simple. Most modern bikes and especially older bikes have a one fits all which never really works out well for the majority IF they actually want to go fast on the bike and turn at the same time.

[@jp2024b]

Under 1 hour gang->

[@alvinsandiyavoo637]

hey bro, can you sponsor me a gopro 😁

[@StrawDragon]

Did you even have both suspensions setup for you? Otherwise your opinion of either is worthless

[@sonnyf1213]

nah going w stock