Is DIFFRACTION a big deal?

[@QuietLightPhoto]

Just to be clear, getting to Triple Falls doesn't involve trespassing on private land. Both the "NEW" trail and falls are on public land.

[@Mechtasy]

Content 10/10 sound track not so much 5:50. Thanks always a pleasure to watch.

[@danielengel7908]

The last photograph you shared in this video is really impressive. All in all it's one of the vlogs of you I really enjoyed watching. I appreciate the effort you take to show us viewers the process of photographing from your perspective. Thanks a lot Adam!

[@davebenson1504]

Aperture... like the other settings involves a compromise... and agree that not 'everything' needs to be razor sharp... just the most important things... and sure taking those boots to the max depth of fluid on the long exposure image... a beautiful image indeed.. Thank you

[@jennifercrouse]

So many opinions on sharpness and stacking! People are very decided in their opinions! I don't know enough to do more than shut up and listen, so please, keep talking and sharing what you see and what is going through your mind because your images are stunning.

[@jasonclemmons8213]

You're such a great teacher! I know you hate those "7 things to make your photography fantastic" videos but you have your own style on teaching and i think you do a great job at it. Like i said while on the Tonquin workshop your thoughts on composition are just spot on and easy to follow.

[@johntaylor38]

I'm 69 now and been into photography forever, I enjoyed and share your views on defration. 😊

[@mistermadsen]

Short answer, yes! I print big, and often crop my pictures from my GFX50S, it is very noticeable using f/22 or 32 comparing to f/16 on my GF 32-64mm. But I use the cameras focusstacking, so the problem is gone.

[@zmerc1969]

I just love your photos....so natural, but such beautiful colours too. Love it.

[@neilcole3406]

I agree some people are obsessed with sharpness it’s not the be all of photography!

[@robertwhitemoto]

@11:15 beautiful shot Adam!!

[@TedPartrick]

Great tip with the blending of the water. I am also not a fan of "mushy" water. Regarding the need for sharp foregrounds, I find them to be a little distracting if the middle- and backgrounds with my subject aren't just as sharp.

[@reiddickson]

The photo at 11:15 is incredible. I kinda like the cooler colors in the RAW images than the warmer processed image; those colors make the composition feel very gritty and wintry.

[@terrynewmanphotography]

Really enjoyed this video. I like sharp pics ideally but have recently been getting myself tied up in knots trying to achieve it. Haven’t yet done focus stacking as partly it degrades the enjoyment of the art. On my previous camera, I just shot f/11 mostly and focused third in and pretty much got it most times. On my new camera I’ve been stopping down a bit and trying hyperfocal stuff and OptimumCSP app on and off. With her former, some of my shots do not have DoF I wanted. I was on a workshop with a pro a few years ago and he pretty much shot f/13 all the time so I find your video refreshing as it reminds us all that we can find what we prefer and are happy with in our shooting.

[@nickbristol3457]

Adam, I agree with you and usually prefer the background to be a little softer overall. It just seems to look more natural to me that way because that is the way my eyes see it. It does depend on the image of course but for the most part that is my thinking and why I don't do that much focus stacking. The last image was wonderful.

[@wendynewing8834]

The master of waterfall and woodland photography at his best.

[@JohnDrummondPhoto]

Re the focus stack question: it's entirely dependent on the composition. If sharp focus on what's in the near foreground and what's in the distance are equally critical, I focus stack. If not, maybe not. I did a recent one-shot long exposure on the Maine shore at F/16. The very foreground came out slightly soft, which I didn't see until printing; the rest was sharp. At my camera club competition, the judge didn't notice (or care) even though I submitted a 13" x 19" print. So.

[@QuietLightPhoto]

Precisely! It boils down to your own personal preferences.

[@torbennielsen7642]

It’s more important with atmosphere, than sharpness end to end

[@TimberGeek]

For me it front to back sharpness depends greatly on the subject. Two of my all time favorite shots were done at f/2.8 on a misty morning focused on a stand of trees roughly 1/3 of the way into the scene so they go from blurry in the foreground to sharp at the treeline and then soften into abstraction in the distance.

[@skidchowder2433]

Totally agree about the out of focus areas of images... I shoot at f22 all the time...never a single complaint from anyone viewing my images.

[@grahamhunneman3503]

Really love the last image Adam, awesome 👍

[@derekolsen999]

Not super concerned with sharpness on the peripheries, as long as my subject is in focus, seem to spend half my post time softening areas with some dodging and burning to help draw the eye where I want it. That second image is sublime Adam, simply beautiful.

[@billonthehill9984]

Excellent topics to touch on Adam. Light diffraction, DOF & focus... I do indeed remember this spot when you were still feeling your way around the D850 settings using the in-camera focus stacking features I believe... As to the possibility of trespassing on another's land, it never hurts to respectfully speak with landowners beforehand as more times than not, they will give the OK to take some pictures. Bill on the Hill... :~)

[@QuietLightPhoto]

Yeah, tried that didn't go over so well. It's all good there is a new trail that circumnavigates the property.

[@christian.irmler]

Wow, what a feeling of depth at ~6:20 - absolutely stunning, Adam! I love this green part at the bottom left, anchoring the image as well as the mosses coming from the rightern bottom, leading my eyes into the scene, back to the bright waterfalls. Also fantastic colour contrasts between the red/brown leaves and the greens! I really love this photo ;)

[@JitendraJha2009]

You are a wizard.... How beautiful.... I was convinced that you got the winning shot, with the first image, when you showed us the second..... I am truly inspired sir... God bless you

[@barryj1956]

Adam, your videos are just so inspirational and always full of great tips. I love the way you go out into the BC forest and come up with some amazing images that most of us would have just walked past! Always been a big fan of your work from the time you would show Proshow slideshows at the Port Moody digital club and also the times you would come out and lecture for us at the APAC Seminar. I note that you have your Fuji set to A, I don't know if you know this but, ............ if you want to shoot full manual you can turn the shutter dial to T and that then allows you to use the back command dial to set the shutter speed. The real bonus in this is that you now have access from your fastest speed to 15 minutes ( at least both my Fuji cameras do so I presume yours will be the same). For the slow shutter speeds just set the self timer to 2 secs and then after pushing the shutter button the shutter will open after the 2 secs and then the camera will give you a countdown of what time is left on the back screen and then close after the allotted time is up. Cheers!

[@QuietLightPhoto]

Wow, that was a long while ago! Ah yes slide shows to music, love them. I did not know that about the Fuji. Mind you I haven't had time to read the manual so how would I, lol. Thanks for the tip.

[@amypeer5741]

I really like the f8 photo better. I find if the background is also sharp that it’s distracting. It also makes the photo feel more 3D to me. I also do not mind little sticks or lines created by nature. That too makes it feel more natural to me. The one thing that does drive me crazy in a photo is coincidence of edge.

[@JohnPaul-ii]

Yes, it’s definitely the f8 mossy rocks that are the heroes for me. In the vertical format. The background waterfall is quite secondary. Thanks for sharing again Adam.

[@stuartschaffner9744]

Great video! I agree in large part with Adam. In most situations, particularly natural ones, I find too much sharpness to be unpleasant, even fatiguing. That's why I seldom want more than 24 megapixels or so in a camera sensor. However, scientists studying vision claim that when presented with blur, your eyes scan for the sharpest parts of the image. Just like leading lines. If you don't mind a very small amount of Photoshop magic, why not take an f/22 image of everything plus an f/4 image of the actual waterfall, focussed on the rocks in the fall? Then feather a mask to favor the sharp image near the fall and gradually fade to f/22 for the rest of the image. Two images, two layers, one mask painted at low flow with a big soft brush. Bang, done.

[@DavidSwarthout]

One of the things I love about your work is the sharpness of the images. That said, the f/22 shot was sublime, sharp enough to satisfy anybody IMO. If I'm ever fortunate enough to produce an image like that one, I'll know I've arrived at my photographic apogee. Your post-processing technique is also excellent. The contrast between the video footage of the falls and your finished images of them is stunning, as always.

[@MrGeo961]

Lovely tutorial place and images Adam...for me is a big deal, i prefer sharp everywhere. Have a nice weekend....

[@charlenenagel7962]

That is lovely! Thanks Adam!

[@Paul9]

Always an enjoyable watch Adam. I think for woodlands, particularly if I’m shooting at longer focal lengths I actually prefer a larger depth of field with some diffraction as I often end up reducing clarity or adding some orton effect if an image is too crispy and brittle. Thanks again for the content, I’ve probably learnt more from your channel than anywhere else in the last year or so.

[@steveuow]

G'day Adam .. quite true from my point of view - focus by definition implies an area of interest rather than the whole image. As long as I have the subject in focus I'm ok with that ... if I can get the rest reasonably sharp all well and good .. Keep up the great work mate :-)

[@bryanthornton6787]

The final image is fantastic!!

[@EwanDunsmuirImages]

Hey Adam. MFD are particularly prone to drop off on account of the sensor size also and almost requires either your smaller aperture or indeed (as you say) focus stacking. F22 on MF however is converted at 0.8, just the same as your focal crop to full frame. Shooting MFD also, I find that at output stage for print, that a soft f22-f45 shot is more than acceptable on account of that awesome 44/33 sensor size and will always compare and some, to an f8/f11 FF sensored shot, when printing large particularly. Nice vid, as always! = ) Regards Ewan (NZ)

[@thevalleywalker]

Nice to get these mid week episodes Adam. Love the swirling water image. We have a waterfall here in South Wales (Sgwd Gwladys) that often creates the swirl effect but I always forget to take a different shot for the surrounding trees to eradicate that motion - a quick glance of it here. I must make a crib sheet to remember, lol, it's an age thing I reckon . atb Alan

[@speterlewis]

I always seem to be trying to get more sharpness, even with really good primes. I focus stack a lot. But I understand your thought process about a slight softness being just fine...especially in a shot like this, were a bit of softness in the background just adds to the atmosphere of the scene.

[@adamsmith6594]

Great video but I tend to listen as i walk. 2 adverts in 13 mins broke out up too much. But God I love the frank info and skill and confidence you impart. Just brilliant thank you Adam.

[@aussie8114]

I make all my photos blurry. I call it a creative decision 😂

[@philipculbertson55]

It is purely an artistic choice but for me, I want sharpness throughout unless the background is water such as a waterfall and I am blurring it anyway. If there are prominent rocks, leaves, etc. throughout the scene, I almost always focus stack. Photoshop makes it easy these days and it only takes a few minutes. To my eye, diffraction just looks like I missed focus so I avoid it. I do realize, on social media it doesn't matter much but I often print images or project them large for classes I'm teaching and the last thing I want is a participant commenting that I missed focus.

[@dihoh2922]

You can use f20 too, beginn up 0,75m to oo and I like the soft structure in backround. Sometimes I want unsharpness as a part of composition.

[@larryrudnick1519]

I don't mind some blurriness in the background (or foreground) if the composition has a main subject that is sharp and the blurriness brings the eye into the main subject better. I really liked the last image with the swirls. It was interesting the see the comparison between f22 and f8 though, thanks for that.

[@RickMentore]

What incredible images! I guess years of experience led you to see that there would be swirly bubble rings! Hey, what's the story with the GFX 50. Also, I enjoy a Quiet Light movie as much the next guy but please don't feel pressured to deliver them on a strict schedule. Fantastic art like yours cannot be rushed. Thanks!

[@QuietLightPhoto]

The Fuji was a gift.

[@jasonkennedy2045]

Love the last image... the swirl effect looks stunning. I really need to practice photoshop compositing... it makes such a huge difference. In terms of the depth of field and focus, for me, having a softer foreground or background allows me to draw the eye to what I want in a shot... like an illusory leading line if you like. Be interested to know your thoughts. How’s the GX50? That’s a beast!!

[@QuietLightPhoto]

Love it, not really any heavier than the Nikon to be honest.

[@SteveMellorPhotography]

Over here in the U.K, finding autumn colours has been a little tricky this year. It’s been a lot later. As always, you’ve got some fantastic stuff here, though. It’s interesting seeing how you’re getting on with the fuji system.

[@lightonthelandscape]

Hi Adam. Great video again. For me it depends on the shot. I tested all my lenses to see that 'breaking point' where diffraction affects the capture. Usually it sets in at f16 on most of my lenses. I tend to go for f8 to f11 without even considering using a higher f-stop unless going for a sun or moon burst. If my subject is more in the background, I tend to focus stack. This then gives me the choice in post to go for a softer foreground or not. If the subject is in the foreground, I usually like my shots to be a little softer in the background to give focus to the subject. The shot you took at 8.00 exemplifies this. However, if I have the time, I like to focus stack to give me the option one way or another in post rather than kick myself for not having the option of a sharp shot throughout. Cheers Adam. Thanks again for a great vid. One day I'll bump into you on the ferry over to the island - I go there a lot. I'll say hi if I do.

[@michaelbeland8188]

Another wonderful escape for me while eating my lunch. Thank you for the info about diffraction and tips on composition.

[@paulcomptonpdphotography]

Another great shoot with two very nice shots

[@francoisbouchart4050]

Shotgun? This is Canada mate. She probably had the kettle on and pulling scones out of the oven 😉. Loved the second photo.

[@MidnightVisions]

Yes its Canada, everybody in the wilderness has a rifle or a shotgun.

[@QuietLightPhoto]

@@MidnightVisionsMidnightVisions especially in Errington! Haha

[@mikehart5723]

I never understood the need to always have a landscape shot pin sharp from front to back, it destroys the atmosphere and the reality is that the human eye doesn't see things that way either. As long as the main subject area is in sharp focus then the naturally softer areas at the back particularly benefit from being slightly softer in my opinion. Nice images from the Fuji , but wouldn't say they were as good as those from the D850.

[@dihoh2922]

Hi Mike, I am completely with you. Stylistically it can underline a motif if you follow the natural perspective.

[@erichstocker4173]

Thanks for the comparisons to show the impact of diffraction and whether it is really troubling or not. I kind of agree with your conclusions.

[@tompetersphotography]

Really nice chilled vlog Adam👍🏻 really like the swirls in the second shot! I don’t think like you said you would ever notice the diffraction in the first shot for social media.

[@JohnScaneArt]

I prefer having the background "soften" a bit too, it's definitely more natural looking. I think the whole idea of front to back sharpness is a bit over done...

[@Bazzo61]

Loved the waterfall shot. Moving water always attracts me.

[@robertlavers1121]

Unless going for an ethereal shot I do like real sharpness somewhere, especially on prints, it just lifts them out of the "amateur snap" category and if you've got a decent lens then why not make the most of it? If I have to choose like getting your waterfall sharp for example with a shallower depth of field, then better for the foreground to be really soft rather than just a bit unsharp otherwise it looks like a mistake. I was out recently with a small prime lens and a medium telephoto but the only filters in my bag were rectangular format Lee SW150 (I had forgotten the others) but the ten-stop was large enough to hand hold in front the lens without light leakage; ditto with the polariser. Easy-peasy, no fiddling with mounts!

[@glensumner3425]

interesting but your gfx being medium format you would get a 0.79 crop factor for ff so f22 is f17.38 equivalent on a full-frame camera still a tad more than I generally use but not as bad as it initially sounds though... but as usual great images Adam and I did enjoy it and I'm not trying to out grump you! honest ;)

[@mikemitchell3889]

Adam, Ain't sheered of diffraction. Maybe it's my old eyes, but I don't see it in my high f stop images. And, it's worth mentioning, since I began shooting my GFX 50 S I haven't used any sharpening tools in ACR, LR or PS. Your dodge/burn technique on the first image rocks, and agree on the vert crop. The second image has a whole 'other flavor about it and, while I consider both to be outstanding, it seems less appealing to me than the first. You were getting mighty close to shipping watering into those wellies. I hope did didn't step back into the depths while you were vlogging! Thank-You, Mike

[@nilofido411]

Hi Alan, Diffraction hasn’t got much to do with the lens as in regards to the glass, it is the same for old and new lenses and not related to focal length... diffraction is proportional to physical pixel size of a sensor vs aperture size ratio, a 20MP Aps-c, a 45MP FF and a 75MP MF sensors have more or less the same pixel pitch, and diffraction starts at f9ish on all of them on any lens used

[@jackleggo9680]

great video and the picture of the falls super nice. do you have a video on how you blend the two pictures together??

[@QuietLightPhoto]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/fYiwo2qfeMl6ebc

[@CostaMesaPhotography]

Adam-- I'd like your opinion on an alternate technique to using an ND filter to allow a long exposure. You mentioned in fact that you needed to change lenses because you didn't have an ND filter size to fit your preferred lens. I've used the technique I'm going to ask you about, but because I respect your skills (and opinions) so much, I'd really appreciate your feedback...and if you've never used this technique, maybe you could compare it to your normal approach next time, and then provide feedback. The technique is a method to provide longer exposure times WITHOUT using an ND filter--by stopping down your camera as far as possible (slowing the shutter speed as much as possible), and then engage the multiple exposure mode of the camera and take as many exposures as your camera will allow in that mode (mine does 10). So if you're able to get down to 1/10 sec for example, then 10 multiple exposures gives you the equivalent of a 1-second exposure. Interested in your comments... Jon

[@QuietLightPhoto]

I did a video on the technique that you're talking about, can be seen here. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fWioYnWCq6l-m7s

[@glennobrien5039]

I like the photographs of waterfalls and trees but just wonder how much they get used commercially. I don't have any intentions of trying to go pro' at my age but was just wondering who buys the use of these images and what do they use them for? Great video as ever. I'm saving up for the F4 courses. Keep up the good work. 👍

[@SimonBoothPhotography]

I think for me, knowing the limitations of my lenses and working within those limitations is hugely important. I agree sometimes, a softer background or even foreground is useful, but there are no hard and fast rules as each scene is different. It all depends on how you want your viewer to engage with the image. Sharper areas help to move the viewer to the important elements of the scene and this is true of any genre of photography. I can only think I would deliberately seek to use defraction (softer across the whole scene) as a tool in a handful of situations such as ICM for example or for long exposures of moving objects where sharpness wasn't important at all, but rather use the aperture and focal point to create softer or sharper portions! As a medium format user, defraction and really big prints don't go well together!

[@QuietLightPhoto]

Cheers, Simon!

[@jamesjohnston6765]

I think it really depends on the point of the image. If the foreground wasn't so nice I would make sure that the subject (the falls) was pin sharp and actually embrace the softness of the outer areas. In this case however I would focus stack the image. The foreground is very nice and the falls are far enough back that they almost become a part of the forest. I grew up a fan of Jack Dykinga whose western landscapes were a staple in "Arizona Highways" for many years. Jack was the master of near/far shots, but had the benefit of tilt shift lenses and large format bellows over the decades of his film work, sticking with tilt/shift when he went to early digital. I love this style of imagery and would say that 90% of the time it requires the extra effort of focus stacking to get the full emotion of the image. Sorry I'm being so wordy. I absolutely love the second shot.

[@antonoat]

Cracking final image that definitely benefited from your image blending techniques, I don't like when the exposure is too long for water as all texture is lost and often the water becomes pure white with zero detail, your solution really works, great job. Guessing you're liking the GFX ? cheers.

[@QuietLightPhoto]

I am

[@gcarmichael]

Nice work Adam

[@fine_artist123]

I like the greater texture/detail in waterfalls as well.

[@1234fredderf]

Love the new logo

[@steffore1]

Great editing Adam and love the end results

[@goetzadamgageik7451]

I agree, sharpness isn't everything. After all not every single shot ends up large on the wall. What is your experience with the sharpening tools in software, are they a definite no-no or could they be of use to lessen the effect of diffraction - I wonder. By the way I love the new logo. Adam

[@QuietLightPhoto]

Funny you should mention the sharpening tools. If you sharpen the image with diffraction it will come back and looks just as good as an image without, go figure.

[@FakeNews_Ignored]

Beautiful photos. 👍👍👍👍

[@JayGrapherBKK]

i think its fine if its not "razor" sharp since i FEEL that one could only see if its that sharp IF they are actually pixel peeping and not seeing the whole image. do feel free to correct me if im wrong. but i think its totally fair if someone wants to just take photo with a small aperture instead of doing focus bracketing at f8. awesome video, definitely enjoying seeing you test out the fuji , im very interested in this camera and have always wondered how it works for landscapes.

[@jamesoliver6625]

I would rather have the full sharpness and add blur where I desire it over wanting the sharpness and it simply not being there. I am a bit of a "darkroom" nerd so the post camera work is no big deal (paid my way through university in the 70s doing darkroom work for the genetics dept. at the University of Texas, then went into color separating and prepress work for high end print work).

[@BMRTV]

If you like that kind of waterfall I'll take you to Mashell Falls if you ever come down to the Tacoma/Mt Rainier Area.

[@robertgrenader858]

The only time I've been tripped up with end to end sharpness is when the camera was 2' off the surface so the foreground was off. Oherwise, if the image is sufficiently complex, it's no big deal

[@oneeyedphotographer]

Image sharpness? With the Canon 5Ds, I focus just over there, or maybe on the subject. Mostly, I am shooting with a 24m TS-E lens, I shift but don't tilt. If I use a longer lens, most probably I am standing and the hyperfocal distance is way closer than anything important. With the Panasonic G9, if it's wearing the Olympus 12-100, I aim to focus on the hero. There's rarely anything noticeably soft. I went to Kalbarri with TAFE in September. Part of the time, I had cheap primes on the camera and shot wide open. I did manage to get some soft foregrounds, but if bokeh is good in portraits, why not in landscapes? My primes were 25mm, 45mm, and 60mm macro.

[@ninacleven7889]

Nice video as usual and interesting argument about diffraction in one's photos.

[@PaulthomsonphotographyUk]

Great video and a fantastic location mate really enjoyed that one . Love the final image 😀👍✌

[@jcform]

Nice shots! Would love to see the processing edit of the images! Love your content ... keep the good work

[@davidmoore720]

Enjoyed seeing the comparisons. But it looks like I'm in the minority here - surely it'd be no more effort to do a focus stack on the first composition than it was to blend the foliage and water texture on the second one. And, if you get the stacked exposures in the camera at least you keep your options open, to choose a blurry background or sharp one. The clincher for me is that I would at the very least want the foreground detail sharp

[@anvilcloud]

I think he was mainly putting the new camera through its paces so he could better l;earn its capabilities.

[@QuietLightPhoto]

What John said, just trying it all out.

[@pmc7105]

Any comment on the trade-off between using a smaller aperture to get lots of depth of field and then compensating for that with a bit more sharpening/clarity in post-processing? Can it off-set the diffraction or does it look over sharpened?

[@johnsholian4318]

Love that 2nd image. Is that Fujii growing on you to the point where you're going to put the Nikon on the back burner most of the time? I'm impressed with the images you've shown so far. Well done Adam!

[@QuietLightPhoto]

Possibly!

[@garykuiken6191]

Hi Adam what if your were to back up far enough and use f8 so that doing this where previously the moss was by cropping the image every thing after cropping is in focus. With the larger sensor all from the moss forward will be sharp . Cheers

[@garykuiken6191]

Missed the word sharp halfway through my message

[@jimbean532]

Beautiful images! Quite liked the effect of diffraction on the shot at f22. I'm wondering if f13 would be a happy medium?

[@QuietLightPhoto]

Not sure, perhaps I should give f/32 a go see what happens?

[@aitorzm]

I'm more interested in the message than the sharpness 👍

[@MidnightVisions]

I have no preference if the entire image is pin sharp or not, its the photographers perspective that people are judging. So long as the Photoshop enhancements don't stand out, the style of the image is what's important.

[@derekbell-jack9929]

have you tried step-up/step down rings for your different lenses?fit your 77mm filters on a 55mm say,lens?

[@darcymonchakphotography]

So many photographers are focus stacking. Why don't you think more (any?) are using a tilt/shift lens, besides the cost?

[@QuietLightPhoto]

Not sure, probably price and weight?

[@anvilcloud]

While I will gladly watch your vlogs any day of the week, I will feel that all is right with the world when we get back to our Saturday morning coffee dates. lol I don't think your diffraction was problematic, and the second image was well blended IMHO.

[@dianecotton9531]

Much prefer the f22 shot Somehow the colours are much nicer too and the brown leaves don't have so much contrasting highlight in them which makes them look more attractive. Sharpness is not that important to me in landscapes......it's more the atmosphere, and when it's too sharp some of this atmosphere disappears.

[@SD_Alias]

i like it often when the foreground is a little bit blurry. But in this case with that filigree moss it would be disturbing when that structure gets too soft. Did you try the GFX50S with its tiltable EVF? Why did you choose the GFX50R without it?

[@QuietLightPhoto]

Georg E. because the camera was given to me as a gift

[@SD_Alias]

@@QuietLightPhoto nice gift from a nice person!

[@robertstonephoto]

Nice video this week! In the first image situation, you can 'stack' just two images, one focused on the foreground, one on the waterfall, then blend with simple layer masks. This works especially well in situations like this as the boundary of the mask can fall across the water. Since the water is always moving and blurry, the masking is very simple.

[@dirtywater5336]

FUJI GFX!!! I'm oozing with envy. This is my dream camera. One day I'll own a GFX

[@RickMentore]

Envy is the word! One day I'll cash-out and get the Hasselblad X1D II 50C.

[@tallaganda83]

@@RickMentore By that stage who knows what other cameras will be out there to envy though.

[@ataraxia4526]

The photo with diffraction looks more pleasant to me.

[@toddware2430]

Hi Adam. Another great video! I'm wondering about your thoughts on using the hyperfocal distance as a guide as suggested by this article photographylife.com/why-hyperfocal-distance-charts-are-wrong/amp Diffraction is what it is, but it seems one can minimize its impact by focusing at a distance based on an "adjusted" hyperfocal distance like the article send to suggest. Your thoughts? Thanks!

[@toddware2430]

Ugh. "send to suggest" should be "seems to suggest."

[@EKowallis]

Awesome photos and video. Please clarify. Where did you focus? 2/3s out. Is that 2/3s out from your camera?

[@QuietLightPhoto]

Yes about 2/3 rd into the scene. Best to experiment and just check depth after you've taken the image.

[@bioliv1]

Honestly I'm not able to see any diffraction from my GM 24 mm at f16. With my Tamron I did

[@josebainakielorriagaarriet2066]

I dont know if i come from de analogic photo ,and i have glasses but if i look a so sharpness photo ,i discart it ,by no natural .I ve got friends that they are looking for the most sharpness camera and lenses , but i think that in the nature hasnt the so shapness images

[@robingrant8082]

Great vlog as always Adam! Sorry to be a pain but what make of wellies are you wearing and would you recommend them? Best regards - Rob (UK)

[@QuietLightPhoto]

They are Muck Boots and they are my boot of choice, love them. Hunter also makes some really nice looking boots but I haven't tried them. If you go out quite a bit and want comfort spend a little extra its well worth it.

[@robingrant8082]

@@QuietLightPhoto Thanks Adam. I really appreciate you taking the time to reply. Best regards - Rob

[@hachewie]

The furthest moss rock looks like it is floating. Compared to my lenses , your "unsharpness" is pretty "not-unsharp". lol

[@keithpinn152]

Hi Adam: Great video. I have noticed that you are using a Fujifilm camera now. Are you considering moving away from Nikon? If so, what is your motivation to do so. Cheers, Keith

[@QuietLightPhoto]

Not at all, both systems are really great!