STOP using the wrong APERTURE.

[@alchemist_x79]

I think a BIG mistake some folks make is severely overthinking a shot. Not being able to see the forest through the trees, so to speak. I used to worry about focus stacking and hyperfocal distance to try and get the perfect, tack sharp image. So much so, that it made shooting a chore I didn’t enjoy. Now, I just shoot between f/8 and f/14 and focus somewhere around a third to halfway into the image and I almost always get great results, and I can concentrate on things more important to me than ultimate, clinical sharpness, like composition and light/shadow play. Most importantly I enjoy landscape and cityscape photography a LOT more.

[@michaels3003]

Yes, this is how photography used to be done. Quite a while ago.

[@jakubkamas8547]

@@michaels3003 who told that? photography is pure individual thing depending on photographer what he wanna show.... you wanna show your wife with all the details on nature behind? Sue you can, why not :-D me personally , I will not say its done by good photographer :-) Simply because its an easy job picture, not difficult to focus and paint.... ;-) but sure, if it will looks nice, why not.... but unfortunatelly, such and high aperature fotos are able to do almost every smarthpone, instead of softand nice contrast bokeh, almost impossible mobile feature.. :-) PS: if you will do always what somebody pretends is a dogma, you will not be a good photographer crating original and nice pictures ;-)

[@nigelsmith721]

This is solid advice based on real-world experience. And it works. It must be exhausting having to think through 40 parameters before taking a pic which looks utterly identical to one taken by someone who has a set of three go-to f-stops in Aperture Priority (and lots of unwasted time to actually enjoy their hobby).

[@jakubkamas8547]

@@nigelsmith721 you know, proffesionals dont think about that, they are simply doing things as they feel it or they want to see, INSTANTLY SPONTANEUSLY.... its like you are playing quitar, talented proffesional will hear a song and he will immidialtely play it, instead of newbie, who cant even play a basic chords, learning notes its also different story..... So, you can live with your thoughts, but its obviously thoughts of a noob :-) and it seems, combined with a "dunning kruger" little bit :-) but maybe I am wrong in judgement. In case of opposite, take my honest apologise. set a proper settings is a 3second MAX preparations.....if you are fluently able to work with your device. Focusing is a measure of additional skills, also capabilities of your hardware... Newer one, makes thing really much more easier.... it could recognize an animal barely visible in tree covered by leaves and moving there, and its able to keep focus on it.... abilities which were unthinkable 10years back.... but even today, it depend simply on you... you would need to have specific perfect original difficult shot? Or you can live with medicore average photo, like everybody else have? :) welcome to proffesional photography, difference of being poor or rich photograph :-)

[@nigelsmith721]

@@jakubkamas8547 Apology accepted

[@williampetersen2899]

As a nature photography hobbyist for the past four decades, this explanation on aperture is one of the best I've encountered. If I was teaching a class on photography, I would say "Okay, today I'm teaching you everything you need to know about Aperture..." and then show this video. Well done Mads!

[@allancowieLM1]

Thanks Mads this was a useful video. I still find however photographers needlessly complicate Aperture for beginners by talking about stopping it down or opening up the aperture.A much simpler way is to think of the F stops themselves - Small F stop = small depth of field.Large F stop= large depth of field. No more mental gymnastics 😂

[@MadsPeterIversen]

That's also a great way to phrase it :)

[@livinagoodlife]

That’s true but I really appreciate him explaining how it’s actually a fraction so now I can make sense of the oddity of a bigger number being a smaller opening. That has also allowed me to understand that stopping ‘down’ literally means choosing a smaller number (as a fraction) as a smaller hole. stopping down equals smaller number equals smaller hole. But yes that also means you need to think of the reverse that smaller number (not fractionalised) equals smaller depth of field.

[@Strongdocoteur]

OK, but f-stops are expressed as f divided by a decimal number, so technically f/12 is a smaller number than f/4. Just to make it even more confusing. IMO talking about shrinking and enlarging the aperture is *the* correct way to teach beginners.

[@Geert890]

Doesn't answer whether small depth of field is blurred backgrounds or sharp

[@Adlore]

"small area in focus" is an easy way to think about it

[@YYYourchoice-uu9ol]

Don`t know why others don`t show examples to make the point clearer ,great job.

[@Chris-ez4yt]

Another problem with using f/22 is that if you have any dirt or dust particles on your lens or sensor, a narrow aperature brings them into focus. If you stay wider than f/16 you'll generally never see dirt or dust in your photo.

[@MadsPeterIversen]

@@Chris-ez4yt that is completely right!

[@jazzew]

The very first part is SO important to me because I never knew that the f meant fraction!! NEVER! Now I understand why the smaller that number, the more open the hole in the lens. I'm gonna enjoy this video, just had to say that much. 🤩

[@TangerineTux]

The “f” itself doesn’t, it means the focal length. But the notation “f/4” means that the diameter of the entrance pupil (the virtual image of the aperture as seen from the front of the lens) is the focal length divided by 4. “F4” is a bastardisation of that notation which indeed obscures its meaning.

[@WMedl]

There is no wrong aperture as such - it all depends on what you want to achieve

[@WMedl]

@@jonranger451 Read catefully what I wrote!

[@jonranger451]

@@WMedl Thanks - perhaps I've misunderstood what you said. I did read it carefully and perhaps my interpretation is incorrect.

[@thorsrensen3162]

I allways use my lenses wide open. It makes no sense to buy expensive lenses with the capabilities to make dreamy photos and then dont use that. Then you could as well have used your kit lens to make snaps.

[@WMedl]

The aperture is no guarantee for a good photo and there are 9nly some arrays where a small depth of field is advicable. For landscape, street, sports, reportage etc. A blurry background is misleading. Each lens has a sweet spot which is seldom the widest aperture. It depends what you want acchieve, this is the parameter for the aperture selection!

[@Iisakki3000]

​@@thorsrensen3162 A wide aperture is not at all the only reason those pricier lenses are better.

[@bleuzen]

Yes!!! Thank you for your explanations. Short, direct and no bla, bla, bla. Now I understand.

[@MO-hq4iz]

For landscape photography, a wide-angle lens is best to achieve the DoF. Something around 24mm is ideal. This range provides a large depth of field, allowing you to keep both the foreground and background in sharp focus without compromising on a smaller aperture.

[@cmichaelhaugh8517]

Thanks. Even for those of us who have been doing this for a while it’s always good to go back and review the basics.

[@Calcearius]

Excellent video and explanation of aperture. One thing I'd add regarding depth of field when it comes to aperture is that focal length and distancing between foreground, background and subject plays a huge part in how pronounced the effect will be. If you're using a 200mm lens you can still achieve a softer background/foreground at F16/F22 where as an ultra wide angle lens may look in focus throughout the image at F5.6

[@BillMurray-k4n]

Just when I thought I completely understood aperture, I watched this video and learned a whole lot more... Thank you, well done!

[@dance2jam]

I occasionally watch videos covering basic material because you can always learn something from a good teacher. Let me just thank you for those efforts and winning my approval with (finally) a correct description of ISO (not being part of any "exposure" triangle, but a factor of brightness post exposure. I hear this misspoken so many times by so many seasoned photographers.

[@LauraF4848]

Great video, Mads. Easy to understand and very thorough. You are a wonderful teacher!

[@paulbonge6617]

Mads, each time I’ve watched one of your videos I have been so impressed with your clear, concise, and expert explanation of whatever topic you’ve chosen. You are a natural and extremely effective teacher. I’ve been doing this for over 50 years now, and much of what you cover, be it aperture and exposure, composition or whatever, is so internalized in me now that I hardly think about it. That is sometimes, though rare, a hinderance rather than an advantage. Especially when I’m working quickly and may not take the time or have the time to give a particular shot proper attention. Thankfully, for me when I venture out to photograph, the important thing is “Taking Time”. This discipline was ingrained in me by my mentors all those years ago, the likes of Weston, White and Adams, either directly or through several of their students. Minor often visited and was a big influence, however the greatest lesson about taking time and discipline was from my father who said if I wanted to be a photographer then I’d have to begin with one of his smaller sheet film cameras, a tripod and a light meter. NO handheld until I’d made 50 exposures, developed and printed each and though they would likely not be that good, they MUST show that I’d had a purpose when taking each and I didn’t just point the camera at something and CLICK, CLICK, CLICK away to get to 50. I so lusted after just getting to use his 1969 F and running around handheld, but when I finally did, I may have spent an entire day and only taken 4 or 5 exposures. Today I’m ALL digital and love the freedom of not having to think, “God I’m at 34 and only have two more rolls of film which I want to save for something else.” ALL this being said, the point is that no matter how basic or fundamental the subject you’re presenting, an OLD fart like me enjoys and NEEDS to hear it because it’s like getting a soft re-boot to my hard drive or a v. 2.23 software update. We do those frequently with our cameras, lenses, and post-production programs SO, why not ourselves? Thank You so much for all your enjoyable and informative content! It is always such a pleasure to watch and hear you present it. Tak

[@johnchastain4351]

I came back from a trip to a state park yesterday where I spoiled several photos because of improper f stop choice. Today Mads has this great video. I spoiled several because I used too wide of an aperture and lost depth of field.

[@monztunes6850]

I did that on film and I was raging lol

[@KruellNationGaming]

I love vignetting. I add it to almost all my photographs in post.

[@S_jorgenson]

My first camera has been delayed for days so I’m just waiting watching informational videos and your’s is so detailed and to the point. I know how to experiment with my lens for a better photo.

[@tomfoter]

Really good that you mention the circular vignettes on tele lenses. A thing I have seen in my photos, but as you say like no one is speaking about it.

[@nataliemarie404]

You’re a great teacher! Easy to listen to, succinct, and very informative. I’ve been having issues with the sharpness of my photos and thought it was a focal length to shutter speed issue. I’ll go back and look to see how many of those problem photos were shot stopped down too far.

[@benjamin5126]

Thank you for this great video! What's also important is, that depth of field depends a lot on the image scale or reproduction value (I hope that's the correct english term, not my native language). I mean the distance between sensor and subject or the scale of your subject on your sensor. For the number nerds like me for example: If you use a 24 mm lens on full frame at f/8 and focus to 1 m distance, the sharp plane of focus is about 0.97 m wide (0.29 m in front of the subject and 0.68 m behind the subject). If you focus with the same Lens and aperture to 3 m distance, the depth of field already ranges from 1.66 m to infinity. Therefore, if you don't want to do focus stacking, it is important, that it is not always the best to focus on the subject but about 1/3 into the distance viewed in your scene. (The values are calculated for acceptable sharpness for 33 MP resolution - Yes, depth of field is also resolution dependant - on 24 MP the blur you see on 61 MP may be still smaller than one pixel and therefore not visible)

[@AliasJimWirth]

An excellent tutorial on this subject. One of the best I have ever seen. Clear, concise, and quite polished. Well done, Mads.

[@margot6041]

It's really helpful to hear about this information again. Testing a lens outside seems like more fun than inside on an object I wouldn't normally photograph.

[@razafiarisonmichael4421]

Thank you for sharing, your tips help me to not ruin a moment that I often ruin due to not knowing how to choose to photograph a scene. I definitely should note techniques for aperture types and focal length types

[@ZezeDango]

Literally took notes haha. Havnt used my D7200 in 5 years since I borrowed a lens for it and had to give it back in high school. Finally got one that I have good confidence in and I'm doing my best to relearn everything about using my camera and then some before going on vacation. Don't want to end up spotting beautiful scenes and fail at capturing it the way I envision it because I don't know how to use my equipment to it's fullest. Thanks for the informative, easy to grasp video!

[@GastronomyAndFitness]

This guy is too smart! Thanks for the video sir

[@adventure_photo]

Great video Mads. One thing that seemed off is your description of aperture as fractions of 1/f-stop. I think that’s incorrect. Aperture is the focal length/f number. I.e., on a 50mm lens, f/4 is 50mm/4, f/8 is 50mm/8 = size of opening(aperture) in mm’s.

[@Stan_the_Belgian]

Good point

[@danielborcard2720]

Thanks Mads for another very usefyl video! This said, it lacks two basics: 1. The f number is what we call in astronomy the F/D ratio, i.e., the focal length divided by the clear aperture of the lens. 2. Why these numbers 2.8, 11, and so on? Basically, all starts with an f1 lens, whose aperture would be equal to its focal length. Now, to divide the amount of entering light by 2, you must divide the lens' surface by 2, i.e. its diameter by the square root of two, which is roughly 1.4. The next halving of light brings you to f2. Then 2 times 1.4 = 2.8. And so on: 4, 5.6, ...

[@MadsPeterIversen]

Yes, you're absolutely right. Looking in hindsight, I should definitely have mentioned focal length / diameter ratio 🤦‍♂️

[@BrentSmithline]

Added to my library of clips to review from time to time.

[@ericwilliams626]

The reason for F8 is safe is because it allows for missing focal elements in your shot. It provides depth of field without eliminating the background being too highlighted. It's a safety net for any mistakes and of course we are creatures of habit, so F8 is simply a good habit and of course you can break it.

[@nevvanclarke9225]

I have 3 cameras and for optimal sharpness..in my experience. Crop Sensor f8-F9 Full frame f10-F13 Meduim format F16 and F18 even ok Also where you focus will change how much is sharp.

[@garyrowe58]

As well, it varies by lens. My Sigma 1.8 lenses are sharpest at f/3.2. My 70-200 @ f1/5.6. It's a case of how much you have to close down to cater for imperfections in the lens vs how much you lose to diffraction, and finding the happy medium. And then, do you need to lose critical sharpness in one place to gain overall sharpness in others ...

[@L.Lyubomirov]

Thats true !I have used different wide angle lenses...some of them the limit is f16,some others the limit is f13...now i use old Pentax 18-35 lens and at f18 is still good + little sharpness in post and the results are very good,and no need of focus stack . You simply need to know very good your lens.

[@billarmstrong4684]

I find the correct aperture is much more elusive when doing macro photography, such as in gemstones

[@sdm1568]

As a newbie, this was exte3mly helpful! I really appreciated the examples you provided with the explanations as well, it really helped piece it all together.

[@diegoramirez8608]

Never seen a clearer way to explain -and show- how aperture works. Thanks Mads, always looking forward to your weekly videos!

[@ET-cj8jo]

It is very easy to make a series of test shots and see for your particular lens which aperture changes image quality (eg from soft to sharp), and which aperture where diffraction starts to degrade the image.

[@yomismo1945]

First of all, thank you for such a valuable explanation! I have always criticized the huge number of people who tend to say on this topic: "The larger the number, the smaller the aperture, and that is not the case. Because f2.8 is much larger than f22. f1/2.8 = 0.3571428571, and f1/22 = 0.0454545455, which is many times smaller. Once again, many thanks for being the first to give a correct explanation!

[@garyrowe58]

Luckily, I've never heard anyone being that stupid ;-) it would certainly mean that I immediately stopped watching that channel

[@yomismo1945]

@@garyrowe58 your comment just highlights how miniscule your brain is!

[@CarlosHerasme]

Maybe I'm wrong, but "the larger the number, the smaller the aperture" it's referred to the number that is next to the "f"; based on that, it's true that f/10 is smaller than f/2.4. 1/10 < 1/2.4; so 10 is greater than 2.4 as "plain numbers", but produce smaller apertures; which makes correct what he said.

[@Antepante17]

Great video! I have a video idea; could you make a video on how you predict a good sunset/sunrise. tips on apps, webpages, etc?

[@Reason-fg4ik]

I think of it like this. The lower the f stop number, the shorter depth of field. The larger the number f stop number the longer the depth of field. And I generally stay between f/4 and f/11 even with my f/2.8 and f/22 lenses.

[@timrosenburgh8597]

That was a great tutorial explaining all about how aperture works to everyone. So well done to you Mads. Look forward to seeing your next video.

[@acecomet]

Great video! I am amateur starting out learning. I have a Lumix FZ300 it’s been good so far. Love these learning videos. Tks

[@IndiafanFromGermany]

Mange takk Mads! If I ever have nothing to do, I will join Your classes.

[@tonymorisause1631]

Great learning for me. Appreciate your sharing.

[@jandzoe9249]

Another thing that comes into my mind when speaking about aperture is dust and dirt. I have a used 100 - 400 telezoom and when I close the aperture down alot some dirt spots become clearly visible. The same goes for dirt on the sensor. So if you really want to stop down a lot, lenses and sensor have to be really clean.

[@MadsPeterIversen]

That's a great point! I completely forgot to mention that.

[@MrTwogiantscoops]

That’s such an excellent explanation of the apertures for beginners to advanced. Sometimes we forget to learn about the basics and just let the camera do the work. I didn’t know about the inner vignetting of long lenses. After watching many of your video I’ve started using wider apertures for a more creative image inspired by your blurred poppies at Tuscany… Thanks Mads… from sunny Devon …NOT 😢

[@pauldicarlo3057]

Nice explanation. Clear, concise, & well organized. Thanks!

[@camilaf365]

Excellent Video! Now I know what happened to some landscape pics, “wrong” aperture settings 😅

[@Jake-vt4ow]

Excellent video! Thank you, Mads. Great review, and more.

[@rezaulbari3404]

Hello Peter, You are looking great. Thank you for choosing a very nice channel niche and making cheerful videos. Your presentation is just fantastic! Your channel is already good, but if you incorporate some SEO techniques into your titles, descriptions, and tags, and take care of the channel regularly, I am sure your video's reach and engagement will increase significantly. Thank you!

[@robertdavis1255]

Thanks Mads for a very comprehensive overview of aperture settings.... very helpful... cheers from Australia 🦘🦘☺️

[@gokhan9395]

Great clear explanation. I will definitely check out your course!

[@stanleyjacobson2617]

Very helpful and well presented.

[@stefankuhn6887]

Well explained, Mads! Great introduction for beginners and a nice summary for more experienced photographers

[@MrStuartAllan]

Brilliant video, very informative and one to save for future reference.

[@DanaPushie]

Very nicely done Mads. Really clear explanation and accompanied with great examples as well. Thanks for sharing. Cheers from across the big pond.

[@paulp3053]

I love using canon 22/2.0 at 2.0, or sigma 35/1.4 at 1.4, but the advice is still good, thanks

[@lphilpot01]

How about using a custom flat frame to subtract circular vignettes? Of course that depends on your software's ability to use flat frames.

[@akunkkumul]

great explanation (with examples)

[@AndyBurton]

Wonderfully explained. Thank you Mads.

[@rolandmarckwort]

ND filters can be a huge aid in stopping the light down, yet maintaining a wider aperture ; )

[@jpadicecoffee9812]

Great setting with birds chirping and easy to follow along with well visited scenes\locations. I almost thought you used a green screen for the background in making this video.

[@jeffamagicmomentphotography]

Well said. Will take this on board.

[@Nini_Kikala]

Thank you very much! You explain everything very clearly

[@scotty4418]

A very comprehensive discussion Mads with good examples to reinforce your key points. I think alongside ISO, it probably one of the bad habits that someone can fall into as they become too rigid with aperture settings. As you said the best way to understand your lenses is to go through the paces of testing every setting, alongside going through sequential steps with your ISO as these two exercises will prove invaluable in knowing your optimum and limits in terms of settings

[@Ak-rk9me]

Woaw - now I’ll be a professionel photographer👌 Tak kære Mads❤

[@robertwhite-photography]

Great Reminders Mads ! Love your Garlic photo !

[@tjsinva]

Mesa arch without people? No cloning? Amazing! Carry on. 👍🥂

[@sweetblueman]

Very beautiful tutorial.. Novel ideas.. Thank you

[@yesthere5418]

1:50 Thank you for this explanation, before this explanation i was so confused about this number because why the number bigger but the opening getting smaller, not making sense to me.

[@A6ugslife]

My dream lens, Leica Noctilux-M 50mm f/0.95!

[@wiredgenius_sn]

Thank you for this detail description.

[@ClintGamree]

very informative and great presentation! subbed

[@billpanuska5775]

Excellent teaching. Clear explanations. Thanks.

[@christopherbanda9788]

Good teacher, well explained

[@PowerkickBoxers]

Thank you! always interesting and informative

[@seb1839]

Thank you for the well explained video. I found it very helpful.

[@MohamadNeameh]

Really fantastic work thanks man , i have now r8 , i am not professional but its my hobby I am working to be better but i need more working for camera triangle Do you have any videos for beginner like me i would like to be more professional for using manual settings And thank you again

[@zaryl2k]

for large group of people, the same could be applied in order to get best & clear shot of each of the people yes? use f/8 or f/16 aperture indoors? i am using sony A6700 with sony kit lens 16-50mm 3.5-5.6 with a simple speedlite (external flash). i also have sony 18-135mm 3.5-5.6 lens as well.

[@MadsPeterIversen]

@@zaryl2k yes exactly, just be careful of diffraction as it probably kicks in a bit earlier on an aps-c sensor :)

[@janettemitchell6864]

Really good video, thank you

[@TimMer1981]

Can you also explain the relationship between the change of the depth of field and longer focal lengths at the same aperture?

[@MadsPeterIversen]

I explained that in my video on focusing I referred to :)

[@TimMer1981]

@@MadsPeterIversen You vocally referred to a video link in the corner, but when I click on the white "I(nformation)" link in the top right corner it just redirects me the 4:32 time anchor in this video.

[@NC_Karl]

Informative and enjoyable video... well done. I'm surprised you did not mention any resources to obtain lens test data (such as DxoMark). I've found their database to be quite helpful in identifying apertures and/or focal lengths to "avoid" for lenses that I own. Or at least make me better aware of the trade-offs. Also, this is a good tool when trying to make an informed purchase decision. Thanks again for what you do for the community.

[@fotovylety]

That circular vignette mentioned at 8:39 is quite bad on Tamron 50-400mm at widest apertures. I generally use it at f/8 where it is correctable using normal LrC vignette sliders, but recently I did kept it wide open while shooting moonset and it was hard to remove while increasing contrast.

[@MadsPeterIversen]

Yup, I tend to stick to f/13 for the 50-400 :)

[@raymondmendez8092]

Great video .. I am a rookie on this new hobby ... I truly lean on your videos .. I have a question, what software do you use to process your pictures ? .. ... keep the videos coming !!

[@MadsPeterIversen]

@@raymondmendez8092 I am using Adobe Photoshop and Adobe CameraRaw :)

[@jamesmlodynia8757]

The above apetuure sample photos will depend upon three things, focal length, sensor size and distance from camera to subject.

[@longphuc4739]

To brighten a photo, you can increase its ISO, open the aperture, or slow down the shutter speed. All three factors increase the brightness, but what are the differences in the way they do this? Specifically, which of these settings should I prioritize to brighten a photo-ISO, aperture, or shutter speed?

[@denischuiko3901]

Very nice tutorial, Mads!

[@stellar_tim2370]

You are amazing! Thank you so much for your great videos!

[@nithintm1641]

Great informative video 🫡

[@tmewborn1]

Excellent Video, Thanks for Sharing.

[@soarpurpose]

Great explanation. I notice my bridge camera offers different aperture ranges on aperture priority than my entry price-point mirrorless with 2 lenses. So is dependent on lens & camera body combo too?

[@douglashaag1127]

Because all your viewers do not shoot with full frame cameras,, I was a bit surprised that, during the discussion of diffraction, you did not mention that objectionable diffraction kicks in at slightly wider apertures on cameras with smaller sensors.

[@SexkeksProducts]

Can you explain?

[@b6983832]

All people here don''r even shoot digital.

[@dennismccowan5375]

Are any of your books in print format? I am a beginning photographer, this video helped me a lot. I have subscribed to your channel.

[@lubos-ro3hy]

Great video and advice 👍

[@appaketa]

Can I enquire why you don't talk about hyperfocal distance? I found it a revelation for landscape photography.

[@MadsPeterIversen]

I talk about focus in another video :)

[@daysofgrace2934]

Vignetting is cool, it frames the subject

[@Chromatomic]

oh man, when I was first getting into "serious" landscape photography I was shooting everything at f/22 and thought I had bad lenses or that the sensor couldn't resolve the detail...

[@hoangcan91]

great video thanks!

[@artefia-photo-video]

Nicely explained, thanks to you!

[@nogroove3819]

Terrific video Mads.

[@adieaf61]

Brilliant. Thank you.