Is It Cheaper To Build Your Own Mountain Bike? | Ask GMBN Tech

Mountain bikes can be expensive, and we often get asked whether it's cheaper or better to build your own MTB, with a choice of custom components. The answer may surprise you... This week Doddy also answers your questions on tools, brake cleaners and matching tyres to rims 🛠
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[@gmbntech]

Have you built your own mountain bike from scratch? Was it cheaper? 🛠

[@isaacmahon4415]

GMBN Tech no, however my next bike is going to be a commencal meta tr that I’m going to slowly build up myself

[@connerrowland5774]

I wish I could but it would be a kona operator carbon because it is going for $500 on pinkbike

[@andiv95]

No, but i have build my own roadbike from scratch and it was definitely cheaper

[@chrisoakes9992]

Yes, twice it was really fun! But I don’t know if it was cheaper because they where both used bikes where I got the frames free because people where chucking them out.

[@theslightlyhillyrider969]

No because for my price range a pre built Vitus nucleus 275 vr is my best Value for Money. (£500 air fork, good frame for £500.)

[@grampasundies]

Build bike vs buy bike question 6:08

[@angelikult]

you are doing gods work

[@quinncab6624]

Legend

[@IvoValeriev]

Thank you, man. God bless.

[@kevnberg10]

The Hoff Has

[@trp1751]

Love you

[@MrSouzy]

Building my own bike at the moment. To be honest it is costing more than I expected. But on the other hand I am learning so much how a bike is screwed together and that knowledge is priceless and it's a lot of fun...

[@StephenStylesGoesVanCamp]

If you store a bike leave the chain on the small rings, derailleur has springs also keeps tension off the gear cables 👍

[@robfreeman4550]

Just spend weeks searching for 2nd hand bikes until you find a hardly used /garaged MTB bike and save 50%+ of retail price. I got my Merida/120 retailed at $2400.00 for $1100.00 not a scratch on it as new condition. The 2nd hand bike market is full of bargains , you just have to be selective and patient for the right one with little use.

[@ZombiiNightmare]

Building a bike is real rewarding. I built a bike last week and I'm so happy but must say if you want to build it fast, make a list so that you won't forget some tools and parts as I did. I was really frustrated twice for forgetting to check the size of my dropper which I had to sand down ( really time consuming and tedious activity) as well as forgetting a bleed kit. Overall fun, good luck 😉 oh and carbon frames can be bought pretty cheap online especially slightly older models 👍🏼

[@verdonrocksphotography3510]

built for my wife XC bike , end of the day it was 30% cheaper and lot of satisfaction

[@MarcAntoine01]

Satisfaction from your wife 😏

[@janwolfel5546]

Loool

[@superymariowest2403]

My girlfriend half-jokingly told me "if you want to propose, screw the ring. I want a full suspension. When you get me that, we can get married." I'm officially leaning towards building it myself now, it will make it that much more special

[@verdonrocksphotography3510]

superymario west lucky dooog, your girlfriend knows where the value is☝️

[@MotoAtheist]

30% cheaper than what? The same exact spec manufactured bike? Highly unlikely! Don't bother giving numbers, you can fudge those to be whatever you want. Mfr's get discounted parts and you have to pay retail. Simply no way to match their prices unless you spend years waiting for huge rock bottom sales on the exact parts you want... again highly unlikely. Now, if you want to compare getting a manufactured bike close to what you want and changing out all the parts to what you want, of course you'll save by just getting the frame and building what you want. But that's on a totally different level and not really what the comparison is about. Most people are asking if they can build the same manufactured bike cheaper by just buying the frame and getting all the same parts and that's a big NO!

[@spikespikus1468]

From building up my bike on a fairly budget build, using components from different group sets to suit my budget, my build actually ended up a little bit more expensive than buying a second hand complete bike (about 3-400 pounds) however I ended up with almost a brand new bike. The frame I bought off my friend, it had a tiny ding on the down tube by the BB but that’s about it. Everything else I bought brand new. Chain Reaction Cycles have saved me a lot of money.

[@Sagittariustoo]

6:11 you're welcome.

[@Niidea1986]

Poor Campagnolo, always the special kid.

[@stanley3647]

This last advice about gear change: I've got same so i do 3 steps: 1. B-limit screw - in most of cases fix the issue 2. Bend deraileur hanger (tricky to find) 3. QR wheels - check play at bearings and check is enough force an QR rod (at axle) - cannot be too loose. - This should fix a problem if not: 1. Worn out chain/casette/jockey wheels 2. Deraileur cable. 3. Stones/dirt in mech.

[@daleheffernan]

I built up a 1987 Nishiki road bike (frame was built by Norco) with all new modern parts, was one the funniest projects I have done. Sanded the frame down, repainted, put all the parts on, had to do a lot of bodging due to frames age (for example I kept the down tube shifters and linked them to a SRAM X7 mtb drivetrain). Was an awesome touring bike, absolutely bomb proof as I used mostly mountain bike components. Was heart broken when it got stolen.... especially given that my cousin gave me the frame after my first proper mountain bike got stolen (which was a Norco)... such is life in Vancouver, BC I guess.

[@awesometuscaloosa7203]

Have built about teen, and yes tends to be more expensive because i (we) buy parts at retail price from websites, unlike bike shops that buy wholesale so they can afford to sell cheaper ready to ride bikes, still, like Doddy said you owe to yourself to build one, is amazing, cheers!

[@superymariowest2403]

My girlfriend told me that when it's time for me to drop to one knee and pop the question, she doesn't want a ring, she wants a full suspension. I've been wanting to build the bike to make it more personal and special, I've found out about wooden bike frames and I'm planning to make one.

[@The_Dude_420]

Are there such capable wooden frames? Ive only heard of bamboo bikes some time ago, those were road only I think

[@superymariowest2403]

@@The_Dude_420 there are a few companies such as Renovo that make them on a small scale. Typically they make road or city bikes but a few hardtails have been made as well. They say that you need to choose your wood carefully but wood is strong, flexible, good against vibrations, and light. They go on to suggest that it rides similar to Aluminum or Carbon bikes but feels smoother. I would like to make one but I'm gathering details before I get started. Here's and example of what a completed full suspension made from wood looks like, I think there's only 2 ever with pictures online. woodenbikedotcom.wordpress.com/full-sus-mountain-bike/

[@The_Dude_420]

@@superymariowest2403 Sick! That one looks like its build very well and seems to work fine. Hats off to you if you can build one, a wooden bike is proper nice

[@robinrai4973]

Bought me decade old Cannondale F6 for 130 quid, bought a RS XC fork for 40 quid to replace the seized dart, and just bought a Trek Fuel 90 Full suspension frame for a 100 quid! Replaced the drivetrain with basically the same set but with a wider range as stock since i like it, and plan on replacing the Avid hydraulics when they start to leak with shimano.

[@shaunscalia709]

I’m actually sitting home waiting for my bike to be delivered as we speak

[@gmbntech]

Exciting! Happy new bike day!

[@eliassandell4921]

Shaun Scalia what bike is it? And congrats I guess haha.

[@shaunscalia709]

GMBN Tech thank you

[@th_js]

What's the bike????

[@peedrinker3575]

ur mom

[@adammoonface]

My current bike is the first off the shelf rig I've ever had. Prior to this I have always built my own. I've been riding it for 2 years, and still don't feel like I "know" it. You definitely have a connection when you build a bike yourself.

[@dookie3453]

adammoonface Take it all apart and rebuild it

[@adammoonface]

Leonardhh4 haha. I'll be doing just this at the weekend. New mech, chain and cassette. Plus full service.

[@dookie3453]

adammoonface good luck 👍

[@garykidson]

I haven't bought an off the shelf mtb since 1999. Always look at buying a frame and building it up. Its not about money, I just like the process of the project, researching the components, hunting for the bargains on parts, colour options etc etc. I really enjoy the build process from wheels on up.

[@righteousone8454]

I think correct answer about building your own bike: *It depends* Because it depends on vendor where you buy the frame, where you buy parts, depends on the shop that will be putting this together, sometimes labor will be 25% of the parts cost, or higher. Then think about this, some wheelsets are already $300, I bought entry mountain bike for $599, and my wheelset runs about $280 if I was to buy by itself. So if you think I paid only ~$319 for the rest of components, it's incredible! Part stores are jacking prices through the roof, for just a frame, short answer is no, more correct answer is "depends" if you have access to direct manufacturers, or buy wholesale. I had a shop put my Specialized bike together for free, and they did the necessary upgrades for peanuts, but if I was to have them build the bike from scratch, it would easily be $2000, or nearly close to. Build by yourself? Could be cheaper, but you have to be smart, knowing where to buy, and knowing how to put a bike together, and if you know how to...you wouldn't ask that question. Headaches also cost more than money, imo.

[@zoranbregovic3752]

For clutch off/on gear shifting problem.... First, you need a really good and clean gear cable. Shimano optislick set is the best. And then adjust your gears to work smoothly with the clutch on. I've seen bikes with that problem a lot. And also chek if your hanger is straight and if your chain isn't worn. If you can, adjust your clutch to be a bit softer and that will help a lot as well.

[@The_Other_Ghost]

Woah, this is the guy from "How to do a bunny hop - Step by Step Guide". A true inspiration.

[@cyclingespressoandmusic7874]

Re. Tyres on 35mm rims: what you say is true of course, but some bits to add: maxxis have special WT (wide trail) tyres for such rims. Normal enduro tyres are usually designed for something like 24mm rims. Some may work on 35mm rims, some won't. They will in any case not have the profile intended by the manufacturer. Apart from the downsides you mentioned, cornering may actually in some cases cause the side wall of the tyre to come in contact with the ground, causing loss of grip and damage to the tyre. A 30mm rim is as wide as most normal tyres can handle, and such a rim can usually run either way: most normal tyres or most WT will run correctly. Hence my love for 30mm rims.

[@freendeed8410]

Yes, it is if you take the time to get the deals. Just built my daughter a NEW 2014 Diamondback Mason Pro (long, slack 29er, apparently a couple yrs ahead of the 'aggressive 29er' movement) , 1X11, 2016 Manitou Minute Expert fork(donated from my Ragley which has new Pike 140mm) , Blanchard rims, BrandX dropper, WTB tires and seat for.... $850usd.

[@TheGomezIndustries]

Unless you put crappy components, No. Manufacturers get special discounts that you won't get when you buy parts piece by piece.

[@RaptorV1USA]

That's only if you insist on buying new and at retail exclusively.... You can buy a complete bikes worth of great condition used parts and save 50%. Easily and get better parts spec.....it takes time and commitment but it's also fun and a learning curve that's worth it. Ex: I just found a perfect, as new, used set of Hope V4 ft/ E4 rr brakes that retail for at least $450 if u score the best deals around, with all the discount codes etc, for $250. It can be done...you have to be ready with $ to snap up the best deals tho...

[@patrickbradford6223]

@GMBNTech- There are bottom brackets that have a hybrid press fit bottom bracket. Example wheels engineering has has a BB30 to shimano hollowtech pressfit, but has a thread adapter to prevent creek and bb noise. If you have a torque wrench that is a click / non digital load meter. You should leave it on the lowest setting when storing. (Pro Racecar Mechanic).

[@celstark]

For the clutch Q - if nothing is lose, try adjusting the clutch and reducing the tension. If too tight it could be pulling the assembly.

[@kubagajda7347]

The derailleur hanger might be ever so slightly off the line - that's what causes half of drivetrain crazies. Sometimes it's enough just to kick it with an ankle unconciously while riding and it'll bend.

[@antoinedoinell]

Thinking of building up a Chromag frame this winter. Not going to be cheap but building my own custom will allow me to buy the parts I want ,one at a time, when I can. BUY NICE, NOT TWICE. That's my motto. The finished product/reward makes it all worthwhile. One day, I will drop that 3 grand for a carbon FS frame. Maybe some of these parts will work for it? Thats would be ideal.

[@RaptorV1USA]

exactly! .. .this is how its done ... take the time to build it, lets u buy the best parts possible and save up to afford them if needed.. some times it takes a few months and that sucks but in the end you got the Kick ass ride you dreamed of vs a compromise which in the end can cost more as your urge to upgrade will eventually win and you'll replace the "ok "parts you used to finish the build with the Sick stuff you couldn't afford at the time....... then you have more "ok" bike shit piled in a box in the garage that is just semi-wasted $$......

[@kolbenruckholfeder6041]

For me it was completely worth it to build my own Santa Cruz Bronson 3 XL 27.5”. I work at the local bike shop and get every part for buying price. It means the frame didn’t cost 2000€. It only cost 1500€. In the end I saved round about 1500€ and even got many premium parts on it! -Sram Eagle 1x12 Magura MT7 and MT8 Fox Factory 36 Fit 4 for 500€ less. It was such a great deal!

[@thomasmyrseth621]

On my old SLX drivetrain, when i turner on the clutch my stifting didnt worked well. Changed the derailer to a newer one and never had the problem again👍🏼

[@th_js]

Yeah had the same on my old XT, the clutch was very totally jammed and the shifting was very not good

[@nicolaiosofficial3260]

Had the same problem with a Shimano m8000 Xt shadow derailleur and it happened after around 1 year of use. I decided to just buy a new one and now it is working again!

[@Strocken]

NicolaiosOfficial Did you just buy a new m-8000 or did you upgrade? I have the same issue on mine.

[@nicolaiosofficial3260]

Patrik Strock i just bought the same m8000 again second hand, but it had only done 160 km so like brand new.

[@jmanswat2457]

Make sure the dealer is adjusted while the clutch is on. If you dail it in the stand then flick the clutch on you will have some problems.

[@bikerelated743]

You should definitely build a bike at least once. The advantages are: custom paint job (I recommend metallic paint!), aftermarket components that never come on factory bikes (e.g., most factory bikes use either RS or Fox, that's it, no DVO/Ohlins/Manitou), no skimping on cheap parts like hubs. Don't be surprised if your custom build is stupidly expensive - that's the cost of a custom bike!

[@TeilzeitSender]

I built my first mountainbike from scratch and the best thing is the individuality,its great !!! also 26" ;)

[@RaptorV1USA]

It all depends on how resourceful you are and how much time you want to take to get the parts you need at the prices that save you the most. Makes a huge difference if you can build with used parts vs br. New. I'm just completing a custom build, my 1st in 9 years after building dozens of bikes BITD..6 months of work so far, my 1st carbon frame, internal brake/ dropper/ der. cables, 1x, boost spec. long/slack short stem geo. etc etc...a HUGE learning curve just understanding new standards and compatibilities etc. ... I started with a clean very well cared for 2016 Devinci Troy, maybe 5 tiny scratches/nicks on the entire frame ...I now have a $6k+ bike easily that in the end cost me about $2,750 with upgraded fork, shock, brakes, handlebar, and 2 sets of wheels, a set of 27.5 alloy sun-ringle Duroc 40's + a hot swappable carbon fiber "mullet" 29/27.5 wheel setup...w/ Hope V4 brakes, and all custom titanium hardware throughout the bike,. most all parts purch. used, all in 'as new' or close to it condition. I'm running a 1x10 for now as I scored a smokin deal on a box of new take off 10sp XTR stuff I was able to use that works perfectly....can always upgrade to 12sp in future as budget allows and the heart wanders... The only "brand new" parts are : stem, grips, tires, cables and housing, rr cassettes, 27.5 wheels, the Uber rare 225mm HOPE floating front disc rotor ;-) and the titanium hardware used through out the bike. It can be done, on a budget, and you can build a personalized ride that reflects you and only costs you time and attention while having fun and learning everything there is to know about your baby vs just spending all the money...

[@thetech_rider9654]

i built my dream bike over a time span of 8 months, but i got my custom 2015 trek remedy ex for under 450 bucks, it doesnt have top end components but still, at that price and my skill level, i can not complain.

[@kirbycalitis345]

Definitely cheaper if you are actually looking to save money. You can go all out on the parts you want and cheap out on the others you think you can compromise. But, if you are looking to build your own bike similar to your $3000 dream built bike and expecting it to cost half that, that’s not gonna happen. Building your own can be alot cheaper, or a lot more expensive, depending on your expectation. I built my own XC bike a few months ago, SLX drivetrain with GX dub crank, non series shimano brakes (because I know I can compromie until I can upgrade after a few months), Suntour XCR fork, aluminum frame, schwalbe hans dampf tires (tubeless), along with some parts I manage to find on sale or cheap out on, all for $650! Rides really nice. I also practiced some techniques on it like drops and bunnyhops, nothing crazy, with no issues so far, honestly I think it can handle more!

[@weedfreer]

derailleur issue is likely either a bent hanger or he could be using a derailleur that is suited to standard width axel when the bike is using a boost axel. There are groupsets issues by SRAM (for e.g.) which are aimed at being used with boost and super post for e.g. granted, if the later is the case it could well be a case of an incorrect offset on the front chainring

[@michaeltrollope8048]

So torque wrench should be stored at their lowest setting as the click mechanism is spring operated. Basically as you torque it up you stretch a spring until it overcomes an adjustable threshold. The reason you should store it at the lowest setting is to prevent that spring from stretching and the. The wrench is no longer calibrated. The ATD seems to be a spring mech as well so should probably be stored at lowest as well. And if your not sure if you should, do it anyway as it wont hurt it if it doesn't need it but could wear it out if it does need to be store that way

[@jblair9926]

Race face affect crank removal... you will need a crank puller by park tools ccp-44, to remove the drive side. Along with a 6mm key to remove the outer lock/cover nut 👍🏻

[@woozertoo]

Can't wait for the Doddy-Calvin collab!

[@hippymtnbkr]

I use a wolf tooth GC 49t on my Sram 11 speed 11x42. It works fairly well , with very little adjustment to the B screw. When I contacted Sram before I did so , they told me no way it would work. They first gave me this reply:We can 100% tell you, being the derailleur designers and manufacturers, 42t is for sure the maximum clearance for our 11 speed 1x rear derailleurs. So I thought this was not a very good answer as to why, then they added this :All derailleurs have a limited amount of clearance for any specific large cog. The 1x rear derailleurs are meant to move in a horizontal axis that also follows the tooth profile of the cassette range, with the distance of the top pulley teeth to cog teeth distance set by the b-adjust screw. For the 1x MTB rear derailleurs, this distance is 15mm. This distance allows for the pulley and chain to be moved over the next cog without contacting the cog during the shift. Any cog larger than intended by design for the derailleur's capacity increases risk of contact with the upper pulley and/or potential for chain jam if the chain does not clear the adjacent cog during the shift as intended due to space limitations. Here's the stated derailleur clearance limitations for all SRAM derailleurs: MTB: The Eagle 1x12 speed rear derailleurs are designed for clearing a 50t maximum cog. 1x11 long cage rear derailleurs are designed for a maximum large cog of 42t only. 10 speed MTB rear derailleurs are designed with a 36t maximum cog. 9 speed MTB rear derailleurs are designed for a 34t maximum cog. Road: Long cage road 1x rear derailleurs clear 42t max large cog. Medium cage road 1x rear derailleurs clear 36t max rear cog. Medium cage WiFLi 10 and 11 speed 2x road rear derailleurs clear 32t max. Short cage 10 and 11 speed 2x road rear derailleurs clear 28t max. Warranty is void for any use modifications to these ranges. Use of cog extenders or use of cassette that exceed these ranges for these derailleurs are at your own risk. So why do the manufactures of these extenders seem to know what the max cog is? Or does Sram just believe that if you want lower gearing, you should upgrade to their 12 speed systems?

[@SorinVBogdan]

It can be cheaper if you find some massive discounts online. I did just that this spring and built my xc hardtail around a carbon Cube frame gx eagle drive, fox performance step cast fork with ergon and shimano finishes, for 2000 Euros. A similar bike cost brand new around 3000 euros online. I bought the parts from 5 different online shops

[@edrcozonoking]

I've gt one chain breaker from 2005 and I use it for all my bikes (7,8,9,10 and 11 speed)

[@pympin87]

i think the thing with the torque wrenches is to not leave the internal springs under tension ... springs under constant tension can compress over time

[@gmbntech]

That pretty much makes sense.

[@aidenwilkinson5483]

Whilst I was doing my mechanics qualifications this was drilled into us always to bring it to zero. The springs can over/under tension which makes them a lot less accurate.

[@rupedog]

Correct, over time it affects the spring, making it inaccurate. Also correct to set to the wrenches lowest setting NOT just zero (unless zero is lowest setting, but that would be v unlikely)! If the range is e.g. 2-28Nm, set it to 2 before storing it fir more than an hr

[@edwinparson346]

...then even more technical is lube torque wrench prior to use. This is done by break away at hightest setting on a torque wrench adapter bar or tool.

[@liHDlGriff]

Rupert Wenn I find that 5-20% keeps calibration longer than minimum.

[@holzwurm_hd7029]

I put a Masterlink for an 6/7/8 speed on my 10 speed Road bike cause i snapped my chain. It got me home safely but im not comfortable driving it any longer than absolutely needed.

[@tubenachos]

I build my own, I learn so much more on self maintenance and installation as I build.

[@gojomodu9934]

I was riding a dirt jumper BMX that had a rear wheel nut that was slipping and causing chain sag. I didnt take it serious and it sent me over the bars and I almost lost my teeth when it spit the chain under load. Chain maintenance is so important

[@markturner-smith5309]

Hi Doddy, I work partly in vehicle workshop workplace and some mechanic background. To help answer the question if torque wrench (rachet type) can be damaged if stored with internal torque Spring being damaged - sort of yes & no. All vehicles workshop should have such torque wrenches "calibrated" each year as the springs can weaker over time if left wound up & if that spring does get weaker then torque calibration can be completely out. I have known of torque wrenches being condemned in workshop's but that heavy use with vehicles & the items 6+ years in age. It's just good practice to leave to unwind tension on the torque wrench when not use to give the spring a better lifespan - but does not cause a fault as such. The other type Doddy showed a completely different design and does not have same internal design so no issues leaving just set to torque setting when stored.

[@lokedhs]

If you build you own bike, I recommend building a custom frame as well. That way you can get precisely the right features that you want. I had a custom titanium frame built for me, and it ended up with a supernice in the bike vault. :-)

[@gmbntech]

That's the ideal situation, but can be quite an expensive option! But very nice nonetheless.

[@lokedhs]

GMBN Tech actually my frame ended up cheaper than the commercial one I looked at at first. It does take some effort though because you have to make decisions on every little detail so I'd only recommend it for someone who has been riding for a while so they know what they want.

[@th_js]

80 000 subs congratulations 🎊

[@noahschultheiss6652]

Here again

[@matejmanceta1794]

Man.... I see you again!

[@matejmanceta1794]

@@noahschultheiss6652 I se him too like 50 times a month

[@fritz2513]

Everywhere in the comments this guy

[@beechy0277]

Hi doddy please could you explain what a derailleur clutch does and how it works as mine doesn't seem to do anything when it's turned on and off

[@dannytyler7437]

Its puts more or less tension on the chain. It is to stop the chain slapping the frame I believe

[@seven9766]

@@dannytyler7437 I don't think it just puts more tension on the chain, however it tries to achieve what you said: less chain slapping and fapping around. Might be with a finely tuned ratchet (kinda like the freehub) to only engage when the cage moves faster than it would under shifting, locking it in place. I'll have to do research on that.

[@elliotrobbins7243]

Hi Doddy, indeed you are correct with the use of torque wrenches. I use them daily in my job as a technician in the RAF and you should always wind them off to the lowest setting. Keeping the tension in the system only leads to inaccurate settings over time and nuts and bolts may end up not being as tight as they should. be which can lead to the annoying creaks and even worse, loose components. Not 100% sure on the Park Tools T bar torque wrench so wouldn’t like to second guess. Keep up the great vids and I may bump into you again one day at Heathrow (I was the 6ft 5 bearded one that said hello in the Starbucks queue when you went off to Eurobike).

[@flyingnorseman]

Take it from someone who has done this many times, unless you already have the parts laying around for the new build, you get a better deal buying a complete bike. Perfect example of this is when the rear axel spacing and suspension travel increased on trail bikes a few years back. Nothing I currently had would migrate from my 2X10, 100MM Racer X 29er to my new frame (130 MM with 12X148 rear). The main benefit of building your own is getting exactly the part spec you desire but that comes at a cost.

[@jmanswat2457]

Shop mechanic here... I wouldn't recommend actively cleaning your brakes with anything but water like a spray hose and or the alcohol spray. Unless your brakes are squeaking let them be. People accidently spray lube them all the time thinking it's something else. And if they squeal bad, just replace them. Hard to revive pads once contaminated.

[@MTB_Rider_96]

I built a hardtail with a carbon frame, carbon seat post, carbon stem, carbon wheelset, carbon seat, carbon crankset, and a Shimano XTR 9020 drivetrain for $2900 US. 22 lbs. I beat on this bike every time I ride - from Keystone to Moab, and Michigan to Minnesota, this bike is holding up to, and surpassing the brand names with the same components that cost $6000 US. No reason to pay that kind of money for brand name frames.

[@najmerkamil]

Had same problem with the clutch on my XTR, finaly turn out, that was overtighten straight from the shop, and start function very badly after short time. It affect change of gears badly. Had to replaced, and tighten a bit less from the hardest setting. Now is perfect.

[@JackMahomie]

Chris king make taps to convert your pf30 to t47, this obviously voids warranty but if you have steel or alloy frame shouldn't be too bad, only 1mm thread depth for this reason

[@gaza4543]

Don't​ think its really any cheaper BUT the big think I find is it can be hard to find full groupsets looking at you Sram which is my preference.

[@hiddendemon5597]

9 year ago i snapped my bmx chain right at the top of a hill just settling the peddling down and now have half a front tooth to show, dont plan on trying to fit 2 different brand chains together again lol

[@rupedog]

If ur building your own bike up, factor in tool costs/investment. But then get good tools, u have them for life....you dont need all...e.g. you make a crown race tool from 40mm plastic waste pipe and a straight connector (the glue together type, Not push fit or compression fit!). Lots online for that...and socket and washers star nut tool, make ur own bb press etc

[@harveyhollandsworth8527]

Rupert Wenn if you work at a bike shop you can bring your bike and components and use their tools while there are no customers.

[@freendeed8410]

Building a NukeProof Scout XL 27.5 as we speak. Bought some carbon hoops for my wife to get at her take-off Blanchard 38R/XDdriven wheels for my newest enduro hardtail. Arkansas Enduro Series baby!

[@raymondpaculan6232]

Thanks GMBN Tech in answering my questions! More videos!

[@devon08059]

I have a 2014 trek xcaliber 8 and I’ve switched the stem pedals seat front chain ring and back tire so far my goal is a 1 by set up just need a chain guide to get it farther

[@TonyVsEarth]

I ended up with all the budget components and I do wish I had some better shocks. Wish I had this advice before I paid for my bike. Learning experience lol. First thing I'm saving up for is some RockShox recon on my hardtail.

[@hubbiton]

Technically you can tap threads in pf 30 metal frame and screw threaded bb - it is called t47. Though bb is very expensive and very few shops will even try to tap threads in your frame - high chances to fail threading. And it won't work for carbon anyway. So better stick to bb's with cups that threads into each other, like Wheels manufacturing.

[@the_baker7606]

That’s why I like commencal, even on their cheaper bikes the suspension is first priority over gearing and the cockpit. They have close to the best suspension and a mid level drivetrain on a 4K bike

[@MsDenver2]

I used to have a Saracen full sus and I broke my rear mech so I fitted a small top quality road bike rear mec . It’s smaller so less chance of breaking it and it worked fantastic, better than my original

[@skylarrichards4160]

Cle Mans. I had the same problem with my XT shadow+. I couldn't figure it out because it was a brand new bike. One day I wrecked pretty hard and bent my derailleur hanger. Once I bent it back strait with the special tool, it fixed the problem entirely. Only thing I can figure is that it got bent during shipment just slightly. Now it shifts like a dream.

[@lejendpolevault5345]

XT clutch: had problems like this out the box. After a lot of banging my head against a wall for weeks I just smashed it with a pressure washer and GT85'd it. Worked as it should after that.

[@gmbntech]

Did you pressure wash the clutch? Does the clutch still work well? It's also definitely worth giving the clutch a service after a while to make sure it's working smoothly.

[@lejendpolevault5345]

I did yes, not at close range just enough to try and displace any (over) greased/sticky parts. Got a strip down a few months later. 6 months on and clutch still does its job, gear changes are fine. Friend had the same problem however, it was being caused by a tight chainslap wrapping on the gear cable on the chain stay, worked ok with clutch off but there was too much cable friction once clutch was on. To allow it to change back down.

[@jeep13ca]

Torque wrenches should be stored at the lowest setting due to it using a spring inside of the handle. Leaving the wrench at a setting above the lowest setting can cause the spring to become fatigued or permanently bent and therefore giving you an incorrect torque while using it possibly causing damage. This goes for the ratchet style. The little park unit I am unsure about.

[@mtbboy1993]

5:38 if it's T 47 then yes. It's a bb standard developed by Chris king, it's not widely used yet, but it offers this feature.

[@ChannelZeroOne]

@3:25 Denatured Alcohol works the best. Its sold in paint stores or in the paint section of your local home improvement store. The next best bet is isopropyl alcohol, sold in the cosmetic pharmacy department. The higher percentage the better. 50% 70% or 90%, I have never seen 100% Also some brake cleaner is mostly degreaser and will make the issue worse. I like the channel but sometimes I think the sponsors restrict what can be said. Used to flat out say what I said up above. I am guessing WD40 is responsible for this information restriction.

[@krneki111]

Alcohol is hygroscopic so it cannot be 100% if it is not isolated from the environment.

[@scottcarlon6318]

Doddy, thanks for doing these informative videos, your ability to SPEAK CLEARLY SETS YOU APART from other english presenters.

[@timmoggeridge3122]

Very informative as always. Not sure about the 'black plastics can't be recycled' bit though: Usually when a range of coloured plastics is recycled it is turned into black by adding black colour to them. Therefore black plastic would be recycled into black plastic, possibly with other colours. If they were thermosetting plastics, or contaminated in some way, it would prevent them from being recycled.

[@christopherlisatinski]

Hi @doddstar1978 , to remove the cranks on the RaceFace Affect you also need a crank wrench and puller. There's an 8mm cap that covers the driveside crank arm. After removing this you need a crank puller tool to remove the cranks. I have one on my 2018 Santa Cruz 5010. Cheers. #askgmbntech

[@jmvdigital]

Actually, I believe most new RaceFace cranks have self-pulling bolts/arms. You'll have a larger outer ring and then the inner 8mm bolt. If you leave the outer ring tight and in place, and loosen the 8mm inner bolt first, as you loosen that bolt and keep turning it, it forces the crank arms apart and off the spindle. Then you remove the larger outer ring and pull the drive-side crank arm right off.

[@misterlove6225]

Step 1: get a used bike or a decent priced new bike Step 2: do the maintenance work and repairs yourself (ANYONE can do it, just watch a lot of YT tutorials). The idea is not to feel sorry for the bike, or for your wallet, in case you mess something up Step 3: go as far as upgrading your bike with better parts Step 4: only now, consider building your own expensive bike that will most likely be overkill but who cares because you'll be the happiest dude alive (considering you just emptied your wallet on a "BICYCLE")

[@StreetHawkerz]

Hey Doddy, I cleaned my Chain last time with some Fuel for my dads Chainsaw and is was perfectly clean after one night! Is it bad to the Chain cleaning it with Fuel?🤔 I would appreciate if you take it into the Show🤙🏻

[@nickcowley8757]

Chainsaw fuel is pretty good, mostly solvent and then light 2 stroke oil so should be fine with modern rollers

[@dookie3453]

If you buy a bike you can always sell all the parts that you don’t want as they are brand new. With that money and any saved up you can buy the parts you want

[@peterwatson9047]

Another suggestion for the last tech question regarding rear mech with the clutch on - check the chain isn't too long.

[@LeoRileyShines]

I can't afford a complete bike so it's one inexpensive part per week and one major part (frame)(wheels)(fork) every 3 months..... anticipation is killing me but it's fun to receive packages for the build

[@flyingnorseman]

Forks. Is there a way to adapt a 1 1/8 tube to a tapered fork? What happens if you run 51mm rake on frame designed for 44mm?

[@jasonjayalap]

paul norris there are adapters. That amount of rake diff aint an issue. You might prefer it, if u even notice.

[@christiandeleo7737]

My chain when snapped once for the same reason, left me with a nice mark on my back for weeks...in somehow in that occasion the chain acted as a whip... ouch!

[@32RikoSuave]

My wife had a Ross racing bike from the 70’s. All I did was to buy new tires and tubes and I’m amazed at how well it drives. Now my brand new mountain bike is being neglected because I rather drive my wife’s antique bike.

[@Hardi26]

My 8 speed chain breaker isn't really compatible with 11 speed chains, but I use a a small washer as spacer below the chain. It takes more care to line it up with the rivet and tool and keep on place, but I was able to cut it and also put back together like that.. Although I would like a proper 11s compatible tool.

[@rupedog]

Some local recycling centres (uk) do take black plastic tubs etc...black bin liners go with carrier bags

[@user-mu9mj4po8u]

Theres nothing like custom building a bike, its your bike then! I’m building a Santa Cruz Bronson 2019 Grey Frame with orange Hope wheels, pedals, seatclamp and headset with hope carbon bars and carbon cranks! And I’m only 16

[@danielwiltshire929]

Sam E that's awesome! Enjoy it

[@davethomas543]

What job do you have at 16 to pay for the bike you are building?

[@user-mu9mj4po8u]

Well I’m in full time education but I have a job at a shop, the good thing is it’s a 9-5 job, so on weekends or holidays I’ll go in and do 8 hours of work, as appose to most people my age who just do 3 hours or whatever a night as waiter etc. Longer hours but the same pay

[@user-mu9mj4po8u]

Dave Thomas Plus it’s been summer holidays so I’ve worked most days

[@exeon1000]

I built a hard core hardtail too I’m 17 only to get it stolen😭

[@hardcorefishermanofhull7438]

I build my own bicycles all the time much better than buy one off the shelf I know what I like and I know what I want to do with it my style my writing can't be doing with buying them off the shelf I prepare to feel my own it's much fun you learn a lot of skills as I'm a volunteer bicycle mechanic

[@uncommongarage2]

Since it wasn't mentioned, shimano does state the clutch needs to be cleaned and regressed periodically. It can get dirty and start sticking over time. Don't you guys even do your STEC training? This stuff is covered pretty thoroughly on there.

[@graemehill9910]

I think the race face a affect cranks need a old school crank puller, unless they are installed with a self extracting bolt, mine need a crank puller

[@307mtb]

Graeme Hill I have to use a crank puller on mine too

[@Nairnster]

Yep. ISIS crank puller I think. I fitted a self extractor to mine. To remove the cinch chairing you need a Park BBT 2 bottom bracket tool.

[@roryjohnson3567]

Make that a 3rd vote in the crank puller. I had to use one on my aeffect cranks. The mallet doesn’t do the trick

[@307mtb]

Park tool CWP-7 crank puller is what I use.

[@benjaminvandrunen]

Agreed on the Crank Puller. I Have Same Crank. You will need a Crank Puller such as the ParkTool CWP7.

[@fittpatley]

@doddy a few months ago you mentioned brake bleeding kits(came in a pouch) Ive forgotten the name. If you could plug them again. Thanks, loving the tech. Did a full service on my Yari solo and have to say ...... it was easy ish but luckily was in my friends car garage and got plenty of advice.

[@andreievkalupniek5717]

Great info. On this video and on the channel as a whole. Thank you for all the work on these videos!

[@pepperonization]

totally agree on the bike upgrading part =)

[@AKARazorback]

What if you collect a number of super cheap second hand bikes with good parts and do a mash up, is that realistic?

[@sunnyscaper8560]

Are 26er full suspension bikes worth buying (a lot of them are hecka cheap now)? Also, is it viable for shorter people, like myself (1.7m), to ride 29er full suspension bikes?

[@samgunning3434]

Hey doddy love your vids I have a norco fluid hardtail with a sram nx derailleur The clutch has given out so the chain hangs limp Is there a way to replace a clutch without an entire new derailleur? Thanks

[@foivoleon]

Yup. Twice already, but as everybody knows third time's a charm! :P Can't say its much cheaper to the original (unless you use lots of second hand parts), but it can definitely be better if you select higher quality components ;)

[@joshsmtb2025]

#askgmbntech doddy what do you think of the new trek procaliber 6 for 2019 with the new isospeed technology because I am getting this bike for xc racing

[@akronyme]

Ohhh YESSSSS! Calvin in GMBN! I'm looking forward this moment...

[@AKASL1]

Doddy, Love your channel and you're a wealth of information on bike tech. I only have one complaint about your maintainence videos involving degreasers..... you reccomend wearing gloves to keep the chemicals off your skin but you do not wear safety glasses, please stress the fact that not only should gloves be worn but safety glasses are an absolute must safety habit to perform. Thanks for all the info you're providing Andy

[@sticksman7819]

Getting brake cleaner in the eye is friggin horrible.

[@furyking380]

Did he say he's doing an build guide? Where is it? I gotta see!

[@MsDenver2]

So in my last comment I said I fitted a road bike rear mec on my Saracen mtb and worked better than the original so why do manufactures fitt such long rear mec’s on mtbs surely a smaller rear mec that works good means less chance of breaking it

[@spesodukic]

I have race face aeffect and to take it off you need a crank remover. It is impossible to do it without one.