IS THIS PLASTER BLOWN❓

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[@NezumiCo]

Great video, made me paraniod about my walls now!

[@easypainterslondon]

Good info cool vid

[@AlastairGibb-sn1vc]

If you have original lime plaster walls...brick...and lime mortar joints...only put on lime....cement/gypsum barrier skims don't allow the walls to breath, trapping moisture...if someone has repointed your walls with Portland cement-this is also compounding the issue, it's harder than your soft Victorian bricks...the only way moisture can escape your walls is through the brick so they'll start breaking down...and original lime mortar will just rot down behind the Portland cement mortar. All these blown areas are probably down to 'modern' materials being used over the years...and plus maybe excess exposure to water penetration from something like a bad join in a gutter at this point...in a classic terrace (perhaps like this one) there always seems to be a coupler joint in this area! Try and understand how your old building worked...go and search out the heritage house org website.dont start me off on skimming gypsum plaster on chimney breasts! You'll get those horrible stain circles! Where its reacted with the salts in the wall from all the fossil fuels that were burning up those chimneys.Lime flexes more with the building, (gypsum will just crack) regulates the moisture/humidity in the air, absorbing excess and then releasing it. If you start putting on plastic paints and barrier skim coats/plastickey wallpapers your walls and building can't work as it was designed to over 100 years ago. Oh yeh look at clay paints and lime washes as well because that completes the 'lime wall system'! Plus they're better for the environment and your health with VOCs etc. Yes, probably costs more... but in the long run it's preventing further damage. Oh my god, you might even have a rubbish cement render on the outside trapping water in as well...then it can only escape into the room, pushing that lovely plaster off (blown)...if its trapping the moisture, your walls are colder...you'll get condensation ...more damp and mould... then harder to heat rooms as these cold damp walls just sucking the heat! Its so frustrating when I see people so pleased and just loving the 'fresh plaster' (gypsum) look on their fresh skimmed walls, on their period restoration project, saving their house...you're not...its just essentially cosmetic flat 'plastic surgery' and you have just 'f****d' your walls...and made it a nightmare for the next person down the line. I'm surprised people aren't getting sued!

[@justincooper1626]

Or you get in your time machine and go back to the Victorian era

[@justincooper1626]

Thanks for this. Some of the plaster in my house just crumbles and falls right of and some of it is still good. If it comes out with a putty knife it needs to be replaced.

[@IainHC1]

I was called out to an internal wall that, when pushed, a wave flowed all across it! All I did was to chip a grove up one end, across at ceiling level and down the other end to the floor..... put my fingers in the gap, and the whole wall of plaster fell onto the floor!! An interesting moment! 🙂

[@troweltalk2719]

I've had 1 or 2 like this !

[@tonyodoherty6241]

can I use ready made cement straight onto the brickwork….(pva beforehand?) then use toupret 110 as my “plaster” coat?…..

[@BrumCraft]

Hi, I've just had this on a house I'm doing up (DIY'er). Just as you said, it's blown on the window wall. I'm thinking it'd be much easier to dot and dab insulated board on there - is that not suitable on some jobs?

[@AlastairGibb-sn1vc]

Check your exterior wall...has it been repointed with modern Portland cement? Was there a gutter leak? Repoint with lime so moisture can escape the wall. Patch repair the wall (blown areas) with lime plaster...you can get it premixed in tubs. What is this obsession with super flat walls!? Look at clay paints so lime walls can breath. The best start to the 'insulation journey' of your house/walls is to just have dry walls!

[@BrumCraft]

@@AlastairGibb-sn1vc Thanks but you clearly don't know what you're on about. Who on earth would repoint a 1960's house with lime

[@epiphanyx3705]

have a 40 year old property in Cyprus probably no damp course put down . Stone village house. plaster in s lot of areas just shot. can see the white salt build up thats pushed plaster off the walls. what do you reccomend ? natural materials like lime or clay ? or fancy a holiday in Cyprus in return for some work ?

[@werdna21]

Nice video! Will you have a video on you completing it at all?

[@troweltalk2719]

Hi I have finished this room now I took this footage a few weeks ago. What is it you would like to see I will get some more video next week on another room

[@matthewgaler6544]

Bet they were the old sash boxes mate?.. those outside walls are nearly always shit eh …

[@israeladesanya4596]

What mix sand to cement mix would you use on that stu, or would you use something premixed like ocr?

[@troweltalk2719]

Hi, I used a 4 : 1 mix you could use OCR . Baring in mind the pre bagged gear will bash the wallet ! S+ C is so cheap in comparison.

[@AlastairGibb-sn1vc]

Sometimes you think you're making a saving...I've seen 'cement rendered'... 'soft' Victorian walls that have been mutifinished, having to be completely rebuilt...yes-the bricks had just rotted and no longer structurely sound!'luckily the money you saved initially can go towards the repairs!

[@kingstonbespoke]

Best way to fix delaminate lime backing plaster without hacking off. Can I inject an adhesive to bond between the gap (brick to line backing plaster)

[@troweltalk2719]

@@kingstonbespoke Unfortunately once it's blown it needs to come off

[@kingstonbespoke]

@@troweltalk2719 it’s not the hole wall, its like a few small 6-10” patches in and 16m2 walls that sounds hollow behind. Should I just hack off and rough and finish in lime.

[@JJPlastering]

Hi Stu. When you have a wall with occasional small blown areas of skim, is it always best to remove and bond before skimming? Are there any situations where its ok to leave them and just mesh & skim? Cheers

[@troweltalk2719]

Hi Jeff, For me this will depend, Take an old trowel and aggressively scrape down the surface try to remove all loose paint, paper & loose skim before you think about priming & re skimming. It's not good practice to mesh over a surface that is blown. Having said that I come across some jobs where I have highlighted to the customer that a part of a wall is blown & they will say 'that wall has been like that for 20 years' Sometimes you have to make decisions / judgements when re-skimming old houses as to you how far you go with that hacking off. Will your client pay for a complete hack back or? Maybe not. You should always advise them. Now I am not condoning that you mesh & skim over a wall that is not sound but as above if you advise your customer to hack back & float but they don't like the time vs cost & they say to skim it then I would always opt to embed mesh because atleast this will give a degree of reinforcing to the surface & prevent hairline cracks but again, always aim to do a job right first time to protect your reputation & avoid callbacks which will cost you much time & money. One thing I would never do is to try to skim over a surface that is not flat. & is bulging outward. You've no option but to strip this back as you will not get a decent finish on it & will look awful. Hope this info helps 👍 More videos on this to come.

[@JJPlastering]

@@troweltalk2719 Great answer, thanks for the reply mate. As a new plasterer what youve done with trowel talk vids & FB group is awesome and valued. Cheers

[@Burning_desire22]

Hi I think my plaster about 6 months ago may have skimmed over a blown wall, also all the ceilings have lines where he put new plasterboards. Is there any regulations to protect consumers?

[@AlastairGibb-sn1vc]

...just patch with lime plaster...if you have traditional materials...put back traditional materials... problems only started when modern materials were introduced...don't add to the problem and potential issues down the line.

[@Commander_Chief]

If you go back to brick could you use a plaster board and then skim?

[@troweltalk2719]

Not ideal for 9" solid walls because the walls are cold. The drywall adhesive will draw any damp through to the plasterboard surface on the inside

[@ianbradick333501435]

Hi can I pva,the brick wall before I plaster to stop damp coming in.

[@troweltalk2719]

Hi, PVA will not stop damp you must find the root cause of the damp then replaster using materials that won't allow damp to pass through or if lime built , use lime plaster 👍

[@ianbradick333501435]

@@troweltalk2719 many thanks.

[@markneeson7162]

Nearly 100 years old and mostly sound Stu, do you think thermalite and plasterboard will stand up to that test of time? Great informative video as always mate.👌

[@troweltalk2719]

Cheers mate I'm not so sure about the thermalites 🙈

[@shulg6445]

Just curious... why don't people repoint the bad mortar joints before replastering?

[@troweltalk2719]

The sand and cement plaster is pushed into the joints when applying scratch coat 👍

[@jamiewalker2196]

Have you got the link for your fibre glass mess

[@troweltalk2719]

Hi Jamie It is on the group store front mate www.amazon.co.uk/shop/troweltalk

[@jonesconrad1]

great advice mate, all well and good to take it all back to brick but its a lot of rubbish to dispose and ups the cost/dust/work, if its necessary its necessary obviously. I'd agree with the analysis on the hardware vs the Sand/Cement. .

[@patrickwatters7555]

That is so old , built with little cement available, also they will mix soil to bulk up the mix, that's why it's black in colour.

[@jamiewalker2196]

Sorry mesh

[@jerryvanderwier2310]

the video is really blury and hard to see

[@tomsleater5561]

Must be your connection mate I'm getting HD