Is this the BEST Wire Crimper Ever?

[@thinklist]

☝My AMAZON Top Pick for the Combination Crimping Tool Set amzn.to/3GCo9IW (affiliate link)

[@derKarl_stp]

for my uninsulated lugs I like to use my larger IWISS IWS-0635S (had to make some ground cables for the inverter last time and love this stuff for using it combined with the 16mm² DIN lugs) for my other stuff I got plenty of different crimpers at home... but as I am not a electrician I don't need the really expensive ones that can do multiple things at once... but still nice to have

[@j4music60]

Weidmüller is the German Electricians best friend. But not that specific one. Look at the CRIMPFIX R VARIO

[@shadowof1155]

I twist unless im working with 1/0 or bigger size wire as it tends to make it a pain to get it into a ferrule lugs (not as bad with the standard ring hole lugs but those are a pain in their own right with that size wire 🤣)

[@user-L3K9R6A2B7Z]

555th view let's go

[@brycedonfrancisco2926]

Loved this video. I work in low voltage in the US and we use these things called "chicklets" small white or blue crimps that splice thinner wire.

[@Eric-lr5ur]

Love your videos, I spent the last few days watching a bunch of your videos back to back. I hope I was able to help the algorythm show your videos to more people!

[@thinklist]

Thanks so much mate 👌

[@michaelmay5453]

Depends on the wire, for smaller wires I twist but larger ones usually go in fine anyway.

[@ElektrischInkorrekt]

At least the Click'n'Crimp can crimp the most Common lugs. But I still need >4 Crimping Tools. Because for every Plug you need another Crimping Tools... But my Job as Electrician slowly starts to become more dangerous. E.g. soon I have to build an X-Ray-Device from Scratch (started planning Phase. Got the devices from a Student, but I have to Figure Out, how to Wire it correctly, while never wired an HighVoltage-System before...) and maybe I have to Work on some high Power Laser systems or Something as Dangerous an the named Things.

[@iBlaze69]

Personally i just use my teeth

[@xandermijares342]

Great electricity video to react to is “Don’t Mix Electricity and Water!” From the channel The King Of Random a.k.a. TKOR!

[@aserta]

7:38 i twist just enough to hold the tip in, no point going full spaghetti. I know a guy who has a hydraulic wire stripper that "crimps" the tip of the wire as it strips it, bonding the wires together, but... i ain't got the money for that kind of extravaganza.

[@microcolonel]

It is funny to me that you use stranded wire in ordinary receptacle and light circuits. Really worried about flexibility there I guess.

[@Mr.Bearded.Mechanic]

Giving the wire cross-section has a practical way. For example, you need the wire cross-section to calculate the wire current limit. Since you buy wires by their cross-section, on crimpers it is an excellent way to see the same number or interval to know it is compatible with each other. Nice video!

[@aserta]

5:28 i usually put the crimp in the crimper and feed the wire after it's been held in place. Much easier.

[@Guardian_Arias]

I twist the wire to make it look like OEM mostly because of OCD. Have you ever carefully stripped a wire with a razor blade with out disturbing the strands? They usually have a very pleasant looking twist that I like to maintain.

[@thinklist]

No I haven’t, might have to give it a go

[@zyeborm]

That's called the "lay" of the wire. Generally I think you're meant to retwist it back to return the natural lay to the wire. Many people twist it heaps which is not ideal. Makes the wire bigger and causes a discontinuity as the wire returns to the natural twist it was made with.

[@Guardian_Arias]

@@zyeborm You are correct its called the natural lay of the wire, while I was getting my micro solder cert for NASA disturbing the natural lay in anyway during stripping or tinning of the wire it was considered a discrepancie and might have to be redone based on severity. During the class the strippers are only ever used to cut the insulation of the wire and never actually strip it. One has to pull off the insulating carefully by hand and allow it to naturally unscrew off at the natural lay pitch to avoid disturbing the wire.

[@__Lachie]

For some reason I never really like using the self adjusting crimper

[@TheeSurfer]

Have you reacted to photonicinduction yet? And if you haven’t could you?

[@sebastiendube9487]

Question for you ThinkLIST. What makes a good wire stripper and can you explain the difference between them?

[@thinklist]

I think it really comes down to quality. Have a good racket mechanism is pretty important. But it also depends on the application

[@zyeborm]

Twist just enough to return the natural twist to the wire if I'm doing a good job. Or twist the snot out of it if I've stuffed it but it's getting late and the guy needs the car tomorrow.

[@Elemental-IT]

always twist. it's just like personal grooming - no one wants to see your bushy mess... What do the 'bootlace' ferrules do? is it just to give stranded wire a solid end? and there is indeed A LOT of awesome stuff when you click "show more" almost to 10k subs! woohoo congrats!

[@Tim_Nilsson]

Yes the ferrule keeps the strands of potentially poking in all directions. I've only ever used bootlaced ones. The bootlace is an additional protection to keep lets say IP20 and it looks neat. You shouldn't be able to touch any conductive part of the wire whilst connected. The bootlace also keeps cable markers of sleeve type firmly secured on the wire.

[@emc3065]

There's a new version out now that auto adjusts the die for each ferrule. It saves a bit more time and doesn't get jammed if you forget to rotate the die to the right size - talking from experience haha

[@thinklist]

Nice

[@chilledoutpaul]

Mostly twist, also reduces the csa

[@IIGrayfoxII]

Thinner gauge wires, I twist since it is easy to do and I always read you should do it. Larger gauge wires, it is harder to twist conductors together. Since I dont have a crimper that can deal with those uninsulated lugs. I just whip out a propane torch, heat the lug while sticking tin solder wire into the conductors. I end up getting a very strong connection, even if the end result is not pretty(blue/brown lugs(due to oxidation states)) and maybe some damage to the very end of the cable insulation which I cover up with heatshrink anyways.

[@flantc]

In the defense industry connectors often have custom crimping dies and tools for every type of connector. Each can cost around $1000, or dollarydoos in Australia.

[@samdelaney1134]

Hey mate. Another Aussie industrial sparky here. Loving your content. Keep it up.

[@Aqnde]

I work on heavy equipment. Crimps with integrated heat-shrink are 90% of what I use for repairs. The heat shrink plastic acts nicely as a tension release and you always have a watertight seal(thick heat shrink tubing is an addition I use mainly just to offer additional resistance against outside forces such as gravel and ice sticking in between cables). It's a useless joint if it can't handle a power washer directed at it from 20cm away.

[@philipmariaegeanga7984]

2.5 is AWG#10

[@randypatterson8206]

Twist

[@Unknownz00]

I always twist

[@three-phase562]

Not seen those Weidmuller Stripax before. I used to use a Weidmuller stripper/cutter for panel wiring. The stripper is great, but I always found the location of the cutter restrictive and awkward to use, it was just as easy to pick up a pair of side cutters to cut the cables to length. I have the Anvil version of the Firefy Crimp Set, definitely one of the most versatile out there, with quick change dies.

[@thinklist]

Nice 👌