Why 50% of All Crimp Connections Fail - Up or Down?

[@SilverCymbal]

Let me know your tricks for crimped connections! *Cheap but Great Crimp Tool* amzn.to/3V79Jb7 Crimp Assortment Insulated: amzn.to/437CNRL Non-Insulated: amzn.to/3wR9ZB2

[@craigtegeler4677]

I have never done an inverted crimp such as you've just demonstrated nor have I ever had a problem with any of my crimps; not ever! The proper tool along with a good set of eyeballs and technique is what gets me through this type of ordeal. I would never do an inverted type of crimp unless you follow up with flowing solder into the joint and over the outer split connector joint on an uninsulated terminal. Sorry, but doing an inverted crimp does not nor will not get it for me! I could actually demonstrate a solid crimp whereby it would be 100 percent of impossibility of not being able to pull a wire out of said crimp without breaking nearly all the wire strands first! And so I stand by my crimps by at least 200% without any common failures what so ever!!! The crimper that I used back around 24 years ago withstood 10 whole years of use and abuse and so if I could remember the tool manufacturer's name and P.N. I would give you that info right now!

[@unmanaged]

on the uninsulated ones I flow a bit of solder on them and then apply heat shrink no more pull out ever ....

[@winrice3227]

@@unmanagedYep, bullet proof. Uninsulated connector, 200/300W soldering gun, quick flow of solder, cover with heatshrink. A side benefit, is it seals the connection against occasional moisture.

[@gruntled5028]

This is the my preferred method. If the connection is crucial I make it with an uninsulated connector, solder, and heat shrink. I'm still up in the air on the prepackaged solder/heatshrink for butt splices. The low melting point of the solder in those has me concerned. @@unmanaged

[@unmanaged]

Great minds think alike...

[@ianwhitford3596]

If I'd used an indent crimper on an insulated connector on the sites I worked on, I would have been sacked. Always use the correct crimper for the design of the lug.

[@ProvincelandsExplorer]

Great comment. You are correct!

[@jamessharier7529]

I worked in maintenance for 40 yrs, my dad taught me how to crimp wires, always crimp and tug

[@Baulan]

The example "problem" crimp nr.3 at 3:50 should be considered a perfect crimp. The wire should terminate where the insulation ends, wire extending at all onto the mating surface is considered a defect in all 3 product classifications according to IPC standards.

[@barrylinkiewich9688]

Thank you, I came here to say this. Wire extending past the insulation would be considered a failure in any method of crimping I've ever been taught. And the next example with the uninsulated terminal he's gone and mangled it all to heck, now when screwing down the stud it's going to be flexing and bending.

[@lbowsk]

Perf. And on a BOAT used in salt water, its a great way to introduce corrosion, even if you spray it. I take the wire flush with the connector. And I also use MUCH better connectors with heat shrink. Like rust, corrosion on salt water boats never sleeps.

[@gabbermaikel]

@@barrylinkiewich9688 Its even worse, the 1 with the manual toool is going to come loose when you tighten that thing down. The bend in the whole spade connector because of the crimping wil be partly undone by tightening a bolt on to the spade, and then the wires might not be as tight as they where.

[@SMEChapter44-x8p]

I use mostly push-on connectors for DC motor connections. Something not mentioned in the video is a pull test, which I always do.

[@mrebbesen]

Well it’s gonna be even harder to pull out when the wire goes past the end bit. since you have to compress that part through to get it out.

[@bozanimal5576]

This explains the problems I've had for three decades with amateur wiring in my car. Genuinely, this video has made my life better. Thank you.

[@misterRobbi]

Yes but now you are old so you dont need it anymore

[@minecrafterselite1]

@@misterRobbi hes 15

[@bozanimal5576]

@@misterRobbi Old physically, but I'm still installing aftermarket stuff at 45 when time permits. At least for a few more years until electric cars completely take over and it becomes nigh impossible!

[@bozanimal5576]

@@minecrafterselite1 Heads-up: A decade is ten years.😉

[@jlpowell51]

Anything that I want to last more than 6 months gets soldered instead of crimped.

[@dfrozendog3849]

I am 70+ years old and can't even begin to count the crimps I have done. Crimps I have done wrong. Thank you for this video. You would think that I would have figured it out long ago.

[@laus9953]

yea.. i used to think i were 'good'.. now i'm so ashamed..

[@6Sally5]

Exactly the same here…also 70+.

[@GaryT1952]

So logical...but for 55 years I have been unaware of this...great content as usual SC

[@peterlattimore6013]

Amazing how something so simple can be so technical. I've been doing it wrong for 3 decades... 😂

[@SilverCymbal]

Glad it was helpful! Thank you

[@bhutehole]

I thought the dome gave it away as you dont need to align it perfectly that way

[@troyb3659]

you have been unaware because it never mattered until the Chinese crimps hit the market.

[@bhutehole]

@@troyb3659 there is some truth to that

[@general5104]

I was a licensed electrician for over 37 years. I had the chance to take a lugging course from AMP, which is a leading manufacturer of crimp on lugs. The STAKON luggers were the best, according to them, with Klein coming in second. I thought it was right to have a little wire sticking out past the lug body, but I was dead wrong. They instructed me, YOU SHOULD NEVER LEAVE ONE IOTA OF WIRE, STICKING OUT PAST THE END OF THE LUG BODY.!!! The little lump, at the back end of the lug, is where you use the stripper crimper, as it tightens down into the insulation, providing a strain relief of sorts. I have manually crimped cases of terminals onto everything from the Red 20 - 18 and the Blue 16 - 14 and the Yellow 12 - 10 AMP terminals onto uncountable connectors and Burndy lugs onto 8 awg on up to 1600-24 cable, so I know what I'm talking about! You are right, the solid radius is where the top of your lug goes. It holds the two edges together and the tit shoves in the smoothe side. You should NEVER have ANY wire coming out of the front of your lug.

[@nothankyou5524]

This is youtube for connectors bought by diys in lowes. It ain't a lugging course

[@AmosMosesJr]

@@nothankyou5524the principles are still the same. Conceptually I was amazed to find out that crimps are intended to create an air tight bond with the conductor. It makes perfect sense but as a younger person no one ever explained it to me. Seems so simple once you take time to think about it. Just because you're DIYing doesn't mean you should be willing to accept a joint that will likely fail. Too many inexperienced people think they can cut corners and basically not spend money on good tools but that plan almost never ends well. There're two types of DIYers one that is doing it because they truly care and have an interest in learning and the other who's just being cheap.

[@Stealth55555]

@@nothankyou5524 Don't care, why teach people to crimp INCORRCTLY in an "educational video" ? Why not teach people how to PROPERLY crimp, no matter what the end user will be doing with the crimped lug?

[@petergriffin383]

I always extend the wire past the lug body by no less than an inch, then bend it backwards and wrap it around the lug body.

[@ramosel]

Retired now but built low and high current power supplies much of my early adult life… a couple that are no longer in this solar system. A few that vanished in a flash…. Nice to see someone on KZbin teach this right. The orientation really becomes critical when dealing with high strand count small gauge wire - 1400 strand 12ga Teflon jacket is a bear to get mechanically connected.

[@deslomeslager]

How do you feel about soldering these connectors in stead of crimping? Or both?

[@erdemkaya6472]

@@deslomeslager I like to crimp and then solder!

[@ramosel]

​@@deslomeslager Always, always establish a good physical/mechanical connection (crimp) before you solder. Then, Depends on the application. Most people over solder. You only need to wick into the conductor and get some flow to the connector. I prefer some, but minor stick out of the conductor when pushed through the connector. This allows you to place your iron so that you heat the connector and the conductor at the same time. You don't want your solder to move outside the connector as it can lead to embrittlement in a high vibration environment. In a high silver content wire you can even get hydrogen embrittlement. Less is more.

[@GrimReaping]

​@@ramosel You should make youtube videos about this kinda stuff. You've got some really interesting and useful information that could really benefit people in multiple different fields

[@jeffreystroman2811]

Years ago a study was made and found that soldering these causes breakage in high vibration environments. The crimp allows just enough movement to avoid this

[@napoleonwilson3912]

One of the few KZbin videos that actually shows the importance of seam and crimper orientation. Thank you.

[@Gottenhimfella]

What he does not make clear is whether orientation matters with a ratchet crimper, and if so, make it crystal clear which way to offer up the crimp connector to those differently shaped jaws.

[@Gottenhimfella]

On rewatching carefully, I see there is a brief text overlay at 2:30 which says "insulated crimpers" (presumably he meant to say, ratcheting crimpers) "eliminate the need to orient the connectors"

[@rilosvideos877]

@@Gottenhimfella Not really sure if this is true as the the jaws are shaped differently. Imho the part with the higher edge should go where the seam of the crimp connector is.

[@Gottenhimfella]

@@rilosvideos877 It would be helpful if the clip maker would clarify, for sure.

[@Poenix21]

On ratchet crimpers the side with the coulored points should go to the metal part of insulated crimps. At least European ones, dunno if American or Asian are different.

[@tobysarsi6864]

This video finally talks about how to orient the seam in the connector in the crimping tool. This is the first video that takes that question head on, to make sure that the dimple is on the side that does NOT have the seam. So simple and yet almost NEVER talked about-thank you for this video!

[@toddposton869]

Been doing this all of my life. My dad was a brilliant electrical engineer. So glad he taught me well.

[@libbyd1001]

Another potential issue, primarily with the insulated connectors, is getting some of the wire insulation into the crimp. Using the right size connector, as you pointed out, can help avoid that because only the wire will fit. But if the wire is in the smaller range for a particular connector, it is possible to get some of the wire insulation into the crimp, and then it impedes a good connection and it’s difficult to notice if the connector has an insulated collar around it.

[@georgedunkelberg5004]

ANAL ME: ATTEMP A PEEK IN THE "RECIEVER END", OR ASSUME THEY ARE OF STANDARD MEANS OF MANUFACTURE, SO INDENT? FROM THE GUESSED OPPOSITE (SMOOTH CONTINUOUS) SIDE WITH THE DISPLACING "PUNCH".

[@davidseslar5798]

3.08 - The upper number is *NOT* "the size of the hole" - it doesn't vary (until crimped). It is the size of the permissible conductor in square millimeters which is used outside the US to indicate wire size.

[@ronreyes9910]

Although technically your using uninsulated crimpers on insulated terminals, you are correct about the orientation which is easy to see by looking down the inside of the terminal. Insulated crimpers are what typically result in soft crimps, also good quality terminals have grooved interiors that help with getting a good bite on the wire, unlike the cheap Chinese terminals which are usually smooth.

[@heartysteer8752]

I've been doing this method using uninsulated crimpers on insulated terminals for decades. Rarely does the crimper penetrate the insulation. If it does, it's just a small area inside a depression that is still protected from contact with other objects. For low voltage it's not a problem. For line voltage there might be some added shock risk but usually the compromised area is on the backside of a terminal so it is still protected from accidental contact.

[@timberwolfdtproductions3890]

I’ve done a lot crimps, and I’ve idly speculated on which way is best, but never put serious thought or research into it, which is probably why I’ve had inconsistent results. Now I know the correct way. Thanks!

[@walterbordett2023]

What you say is correct but If you buy brazed-barrel crimp terminals this failure mode cannot happen. They cost a lot more than the cheapies but are worth it. They often are made from thicker copper material, so they are sturdier. Nylon insulated terminals are good to higher temperatures than the cheaper PVC insulated ones. Many critical applications specify brazed-barrel terminals. For smaller screw size terminals 1/16 stick out of the wire may be too much. Any wire past flush is not part of the connection, so just make sure the wire strands are just a little past flush and not in the way of the screw head. Ratcheting crimping tools are great and often take a lot less force to crimp. I have carpal tunnel damage from crimping terminals and cutting wires with less than the easiest tools over fifty years of tool use.

[@maubunky1]

Thank you Walter. Also people should avoid generic no name brand Chinese made crimp terminals widely available at online stores because even though they come in very affordable multi-packs with every size and style of crimp terminal you'll ever need in one convenient box.....video demonstrations have proven that they don't hold their crimp even when crimped correctly, to the point where just a slight tug on the wire pulls the terminal right off. By comparison, Gardner Bender crimp terminals hold together very nicely. I'm not sure what manufacturer makes the best brazed-barrel crimp terminals or where is the most convenient place to buy them but I have to find out before my next project.

[@mandmwaddle]

I was about to comment this. I have switched to brazed seam uninsulated crimps and they work so much better.

[@cruze1953]

100% correct. Ideally followed up with double-wall heat shrink. (non-insulated connectors of course)@@mandmwaddle

[@MMorMM]

Excellent

[@briangpz]

Couldn't agree more. High quality terminals, and a high quality crimp tool are so worth it. I've been working on industrial machinery and building control panels for 40 years. Panduit or T&B are the way to go. I own both a Panduit CT-1550 and a T&B ERG 4001. A lot more expensive than most of the other tools on the market, but when a bad connection results in downtime and/or a call in the middle of the night, then they seem rather cheap by comparison.

[@Rico-oy3dc]

This is the MOST useful video I have seen in years. I HATE connectors such as this in HVAC, and now feel foolish. Thank you!

[@Kevin-qy4du]

I've done a lot of stranded 10-14. I had some long handled crimpers like the Gardener/Bender in the vid. Came up missing. I ended up welding 6" extensions on the pair I use now, as I couldn't find another. Crimps like a bench vice. Fixing a pulled crimp on a submersible pump a couple hundred feet below ground motivates one to make good crimps.

[@lloyd-qt1mg]

OMG .... forty years later and I've now learnt how to (i) identify the lug's hole size & wire size and (ii) how to crimp correctly! What a great lesson you've taught me .... thank you, thank you!

[@dananorth895]

Instructions are optional.

[@tommurphy4307]

thats the best-testing clark bar i ever et.

[@irvinslagter8298]

OMG is right......forty years and you never figured that out! Yikes!

[@williamshmilliam-m9z]

Crimpin’ ain’t easy

[@SilverCymbal]

I used to feel the same, and these issues are 75% of most of the problems.

[@Arseijo]

Lmao

[@BlueGillage]

Sighhhhhh. Lol

[@Busydadgarage717]

That one got me! Lol!

[@jasonvanlanduyt7202]

But it's necessary.

[@greensavant2573]

Thank you for doing this. I was lucky that in the senior year, my High School had a vocational electronic program (the entire afternoon). The instructor covered all types of practices, tips & tricks. I went on to college, and couldn't believe all the double E's that didn't have a clue about any of this, and most had never wired anything!

[@Failsafeman100]

Zero time wasted in laying it all out very simply. Subbed 👍

[@SilverCymbal]

Much appreciated. Thanks for joining the channel.

[@NeilPho]

Me too.

[@theseoldhands532]

Wowsers what a rad video :) 20 odd years of crimping that led to me just soldering everything out of necessity for reliability I’m now off to buy some nice crimping pliers ❤

[@michaelcraft2664]

I will sometimes crimp *and* solder also .Just be careful to not let the solder wick too far down into the wire, else the flexibility will be gone and too much force could cause the wire to break.

[@robertsnake6462]

OUTSTANDING, as usual. I've seen MANY folks do this the wrong way and use regular pliers to crush the connector down. The "brute force" method.

[@kcrichton7485]

Used vice grips for years, works great

[@bluedistortions]

I use a 6lb blacksmithing hammer and anvil, never had a problem.

[@gg-gn3re]

works fine if your connectors are the good ones. This is the same thing the ratchet ones do.. "brute force"

[@georgedunkelberg5004]

@@kcrichton7485 WHY CHANCE A FAILURE? WHEN KNOWLEDGE WILL YIELD SUCESS?

[@dennisbarrett6148]

I have used pliers. I have used a drift pin and big hammer. As much as I hate to admit, I have also used to small a wire and stripped off 2 inchs of insulation so I could fold it over a few times!!!

[@jimharvard]

i am embarrassed to say this but - wow, after working on cars for 60 years and doing various other kinds of electrical work, i FINALLY learned how to do a good crimp connection. thank you for this video. it is very true that there is a "better" or "worse" way of doing almost everything.

[@tobyweir-jones8758]

Yup. I knew about the seam but had been doing it the opposite way. Sometimes the two halves on the seam would both curl in nicely and make a good crimp but your way is better and more predictable. Earns a sub, thanks!

[@josephkostinko739]

There is a tool that pinches the two halves down and together like you said. It is what the factory does. Not for insulated terminals though. Surprised it was not shown in this video.

[@bobjeaniejoey]

It still embarrasses me that when I was a young man it took me longer than it should have to figure this out. I'm now 65 and I can still remember my moment of realization. I was 19 years old. This video is the first instance that I've ever seen anyone, or anything describe the proper method of crimping. Good on you for doing so.

[@wyattsdad8561]

This is a great video. No one has ever taught me the right way to do a crimp in all my years of using them

[@donhozy]

I've never seen all these points highlighted, and so well demonstrated, in any crimping how to video. Thanks, once again, for going a little deeper into the details that can make, or break, the success of a project.

[@nolan8226]

"Stop pulling out" thanks Chris, I'll take this to heart

[@jazzamoartlestrade1458]

I shall adopt this as my creed 😂👌

[@tiddybearkush]

😂

[@don2deliver]

Your seven kids will thank you. Okay maybe not, they'll be selfish jerks. 😅

[@JimN_AustinTx]

Unisulated crimped this way plus adhesive lined heat shrink is the best. Good content. Just be careful as many automotive connectors require special crimpers and they do go on the seam.

[@davidhilton7780]

Thank you, somone get it...

[@andrewblack6473]

Yep that's how I do it and that's how the factory does it. Never had an issue.

[@andrewblack6473]

@arturozarate1752 thank you! Look at how it comes from the factory. Nice to see a fellow ford senior master in here

[@jameskelly9800]

It's not hard to put the tooth on the seam, bending both sides into the copper. I have seen many bad connections also made the "proper" way if the wire, pushed from the other side, spreads the seam.

[@kaptainkaos1202]

The right crimp for the right wire, the right tool and correct preparation will make a long lasting crimp every-time. I can say that because I am one of a handful of EWIS, Electrical Wiring Interconnect System, experts on USN/USMC, a few USAF an a half dozen foreign military aircraft. If you’re going to do more than a dozen crimps in a year and you can afford it buy the ratcheting crimper. You’ll get interchangeable heads and you won’t be able to crush the crimp like so many do. It really takes about 15 minutes to train someone to be able to properly one crimp after another. Other than the lug breaking I can’t remember seeing a failed crimp in years. Thanks for a great video!

[@arminr.5174]

Me and a friend put an aftermarket ignition system on his motorcycle and needed to connect all kinds of wires with these connectors. Real glad I'd watched this video for fun a few days back and remembered to put them into the tool upside down. Not a single connection failed!

[@patthesoundguy]

It took me a while in my younger years to figure out which way to crimp terminals correctly. Great Video!!!! You are saving folks a ton of frustration and some downtime from a failed connection.

[@davemccage7918]

I alway cut the useless plastic “insulation” off of the connectors and use heat shrink instead. Problem solved.

[@steelrat5604]

Eureka !!! 40 years later finally i know how to do it proper way. It's so deceiving to use it the wrong way. Thank you !

[@Mountain-Man-3000]

The crimp tool you used on the uninsulated terminals is for closed barrel connectors. The open crimp uses a die that rolls both wings of the open crimp down into the wire. You mean well but are actually not helping.

[@SolarMillUSA]

This times 1000. I am practically screaming at the screen this is so incorrect. A proper terminal crimp in almost every specification will form a “B” with the seam splitting the wire strands into two channels. You can see how hard he had to finesse the situation to make the crimp incorrect by the video jump @1:19

[@Strider9655]

@@SolarMillUSA He's showing, without telling us, the importance of using the right tool for the job. I don't know that a cutter/crimp tool is, but it shouldn't exist. It's like using a spork to eat a meal in a fancy restaurant.

[@DenisAleksandrovLV]

@@Strider9655, one way or another, combined tools are always worse than those made for a specific purpose. But this tool is good for crimping ferrules.

[@pb68slab18]

I used to work for a company that made wiring harnesses. I always pull the plastic sleeve and toss it. Use an Essex-type crimper, and solder. Then use heat-shrink insulation.

[@antt5112]

True open barrel crimps have vertical sides, those looked like cheap automotive style crimps (poor copy of a Hella crimp) so he was sort of on the mark for people that use them. You are right about the tool, it also looked a bit wide for the terminal he crimped so it didn't do the indent quite as they should. In any case what he put up, would help most people have a chance of getting a result that would suit most hobby stuff.

[@AB-ot3bc]

Great information for most people who are doing anything to do with crimping wires. I learned this from doing it wrong for years then I learned from an old school dude that showed me how. After that I would say 90 plus percent would never come apart. Great tip.

[@dubmob151]

What happens with the other 9 to 10 percent?

[@GeoffWhittaker]

I've watched a lot of crimping videos over the years as I've always struggled to get satisfactory crimps. This is by far one of, if not the best. I have three of those ratcheting crimpers including the one that you used and I was never able to get satisfactory crimps out of it. I don't know if I'm just using it wrong or the wrong dies, but it never seems to work well. I just started using the uninsulated ones so I could make sure the wire and connector deformed together solidly.

[@matthewbeaver5026]

Thank you for making this. It seems like such a simple solution. Nobody ever told me they needed to be spun the proper direction. I always wondered why I'd have to do it 3x to finally get a good connection. Here I just by chance would end up with it turned properly.

[@alandaters8547]

I never knew about the orientation issue. But I alway checked what the joint looked like and would re-crimp as needed-crude but effective. Thank You!

[@dmfraser1444]

Wow. I have always soldered the wires into the crimp terminals after crimping to make sure the wires do not fall off. Since 1968. I see I have been doing it wrong all this time. Even when using a power crimping tool. at work. Thanks for this.

[@grizewald]

You should never use solder on a crimp connection. Using solder creates a weak point in the wire because the solder wicks up the wire during soldering. For any wiring subject to vibration, this leads to the conductor breaking inside the insulation. It always fails just where the wicked up solder ends, as that's the first point where the wire can bend.

[@diezelking89]

@@grizewaldit only wicks up the wire and creates a weak point if you’re using too much solder. Using a “dab/drop” right at the beginning of the crimp where the wire is barely exposed will secure it to the connector and create a stronger hold. Then slide the glue lined aka “marine grade” insulation up over the connector and shrink it down

[@DieselDog358]

​@diezelking89 Exactly! What you describe IS the BEST method. 👍👍👍

[@wallacegrommet9343]

I use a hex crimper always, from #22 to 4/0 . But the variation in insulation size, hardness, etc makes me prefer uninsulated terminals. The crimp is visible for QC inspection, and I use heat shrink afterwards.

[@cruze1953]

are you using seamless barrel connectors OR brazed seam? Followed with double-wall heat shrink with melt-liner? I used to splice submersible pumps using seamless butt-connectors followed with 3M double-wall shrink which has melt liner. The crimp tool was the kind with the dimple like Klein makes. These were 50HP 3-phase 480 volt pumps at lift stations.

[@mightyluv]

This shows why you need to be more involved with the tools and materials you’re working with, especially when it has to do with electricity. Follow manufacturer’s directions, but also utilize your critical thinking skills to figure out why it’s done that way. Thanks for posting this video.

[@central3425]

Thanks for this. I have been frustrated many times with loose connections on these connectors. Now I will look for this in the future.

[@bobbybeeman7280]

Wow thanks I am 75 years old done a lot of wiring off and on and never knew how to use the crimper. I certainly had a lot of failures and resorted to other wrong methods. Bet ya by golly gee; I will never forget. Thank you.

[@JohnSmith-he1eq]

You covered a great topic and glad you showed it done the right way, NICE JOB. If I may add, I ONLY use Ideal crimp connectors with either a ratchet crimper or a Klein regular crimper to get the best results. Whenever I rewire any kind of automotive application, especially boat trailers, I remove the insulation off the connector, slide 2 pieces of heat shrink tube with the last heat shrink to go on being a little longer before I crimp my connection. Last, all my crimps get sprayed with white lithium grease before I heat shrink them. Truly a long lasting, almost bullet proof connection. Hope you like the method to my madness. Mike. :)

[@cruze1953]

try double-wall heat shrink with a melt-liner you will marvel at the finished connection. That single wall heatshrink you are using will probably split with age. When you heat the double-wall you stop heating right the very second it oozes out. This also serves as limiting the heat applied.

[@JohnSmith-he1eq]

@@cruze1953This is exactly why I use 2 pieces of heat shrink, 1 longer than the other. Lithium grease under the 1st heat shrink, and the 2nd heat shrink overlaps each end to seal in the grease. Over heating heat shrink makes it brittle and a very good point. I will look in to that type of heat shrink that I am not familiar with. Thanks!

[@CT_Taylor]

@@JohnSmith-he1eq white lithium is not an ideal thing to have UNDER your tubing. Why would you do that?

[@alfredomarquez9777]

​@CT_Taylor. Yes. Silicone Dielectric grease is the one to use.

[@keno77]

Thanks for the great tip, I use to do this but not much anymore but I learned something new today and I appreciate that, I'm 65😊

[@kh40yr]

I lessoned myself about 30 years ago in getting the crimp right, and using the correct heat shrink tube. Insulated connectors have the insulating shell removed and thrown away, and crimped properly as shown. You can get the uninsulated solid tube butt/end connectors at Napa usually, or any Commercial truck supply store. Ancor Marine Grade heat shrink tube only, all I use now. No more Harbor Frightening Chinashrink. The Ancor is expensive, but you'll thank me later. When shrunk properly, it will ooze sealant out of both ends of the shrink tube on the wire or connector., sealing and locking the connection. You could tow a vehicle with the strength of that adhesive/sealant. I made my own crimping tool because I was tired of folding the china crimpers over, when I would squeeze tight. All big high amp connections get a hydraulically crimped end, and solder and Ancor. You can also get the shrinkable butt connectors and others at Napa. Most of those are junk. Don't buy them. Some of those better marine connectors do both with a shrinkable insulator and being loaded with Dielectric grease from the factory.

[@Headbanger427]

I'm 54 and have been doing this wrong as long as I can remember. Thanks for the video! The next time I crimp wires I will be able to do it correctly.

[@bretgreen5314]

Good advice. I always give a crimped connection the "tug test" as well.

[@OsirisNeits]

Crimp, tug, apply heat shrink. This is the way.

[@Blackadar56]

Tug test is one of the most important steps. That’s the only thing missing in the video. I like using shrink tube over the joint too as an added barrier against failure.

[@jasonnugent963]

I'm not sure why KZbin recommended this video to my feed. But I'm 51 and I never knew this. So kudos to you for teaching me.

[@Thalao]

Great explanation! I've seen several professionals saying to put the teeth of the pliers pressing on the terminal tabs and it's actually difficult to get it right. There are always those who will argue: "but it's just training". I don't see it that way, because it doesn't make sense to train to correct something you're doing wrong. This video was shared with my channel followers, but not all of them speak English. If you allow me, I would like to use your script as inspiration to film a Brazilian Portuguese version. And of course giving credit to the original creator. Thanks for the class!

[@georgedunkelberg5004]

THATS THE CIVILIZATIONS IMPROVEMENT EVOLUTION, BY PAYING IT FORWARD!

[@davevick1775]

1:15 - Your problem is you're using the part of the GB crimpers' jaws that's designed for use on uninsulated terminals ONLY to crimp an insulated terminal. The circular cutouts on this crimper's jaws next to the toothed cutouts are for crimping insulated terminals. Using the correct tool for the job - and knowing how to correctly use it - is 95% of the solution; the remaining 5% is technique.

[@jim3922]

I’ve never crimped a connector like this and probably never will. But the video had me hooked from the beginning.

[@georgedunkelberg5004]

NOW YOU MAY TEACH AND PAY THIS FORWARD

[@davidhilton7780]

This made my day, if you know you know.... This is incorrect, the seam of crimp must curl around the wires evenly, also there must be a insulated shrink wrapping over wire and crimp. There only needs to be the length of wire only the size of crimping area.

[@kcrreedranch]

I knew of this for years. And you are totally correct about this. I have pointed this out to a few friends. And all of them had no idea . Thanks , great video.

[@adrumwhisperer]

Details like this are so important but so hard to come by! Thank you for passing along this knowledge.

[@graceortiz9494]

Wow, this is interesting. Never knew this. Retired as a service tech after 28 years. I never had any bad connectors. I guess I was very lucky.

[@jamesmeader6539]

This! I tried to teach a new boss this once and he wouldn't listen, until I started going over to the bench where he was working and easily pulling off 2/3 of the terminals he had just crimped. Another bad habit of his was to strip the wire too short, the crimp (even when properly oriented) would only pinch the very tip of the stripped portion of the wire... also easily pulled off. My agency wouldn't spring for good ratcheting crimpers but at least I got them to throw out the trash Radio Shack crimpers (like the first pair you showed) in all the toolkits for a fairly decent Ideal 30-429 that had dies for both insulated and bare terminals. I used my pair for nearly 20 years, crimping thousands upon thousands of terminals, and I took them home with me when I retired. Good video!

[@meadowviewlawncarellc8079]

Good video. Years ago when I actually paid attention to this and figured it out, I spray painted one side of the tip of my crimpers so at a quick glance I knew what way they were. So now I just have to look at the terminal. I got a ratchet style crimpers but honestly don’t like them that much.

[@1pcfred]

If you want your crimp connections to work then don't use the cheapest connectors on the planet. There's a difference between Wang Hung Lo brand and name brand connectors.

[@toastmastr9763]

Those are definitely low quality connectors I won't buy

[@1pcfred]

@@toastmastr9763 the connectors in this video look like the imported ones to me. You get that assorted organizer of them for $9.99 or something. 500 pieces! They're really thin and made out of mystery metal. Decent connectors always have information stamped on them. If the connector says nothing that says something.

[@frikyouall]

They never do tell you that the name brand gets made in the same factory as the unbranded. They also don't tell you the history of the Chinese political system and why all the metal there is such poor quality.

[@1pcfred]

@@frikyouall a factory can make many different products. China could make good metal. They can make poor metal too. It depends what anyone is willing to pay for. Basically if you're getting connectors for less than about a quarter a piece they're going to be lousy. I really don't care who makes them. That's what it costs to make a decent connector.

[@frikyouall]

@@1pcfred Not sure, but I think you contradicted your original post when you said you don't care who makes them.

[@kcrreedranch]

Excellent video. The only thing I would have mentioned is. All those crimp connectors are made of aluminum. And we all know it oxidized rapidly. Whenever I do any wiring with these connectors. I smear a dab of Dialectic grease on the wires. I was taught that years ago as a kid. And I have never had an issue with oxidized connectors. Even here where they salt the roads in the winter. Thanks for the great video

[@jeeperaz]

good call. I use Gardner Bender Ox-Gard

[@sks762auto]

Not aluminum. They are copper base metal that is plated with silver.

[@bluddyrowdy8757]

Not aluminium. Copper base-metal, plated with Tin....

[@DanielJohnson-ps4xv]

I’m 42 and have been using crimp connectors probably since I was 10 or 11. Man I have done this wrong a lot of times. Thanks for the lesson.

[@edover50]

Bought my first ratcheting crimper this week and am going to try it out using your tips!! Always such great content thank you!!

[@joandodds7626]

Excellent video answered all questions anyone pondered...I personally solder any connector and then shrink tube then dielectric grease connections...wire routing is the problem I’ve experienced... and those pesky 🤬mice

[@arubaguy2733]

I built industrial control panels 30 years ago and learned early on how to make the most robust "staked-on" (crimped on) terminations. Use quality terminals, a dedicated crimp tool (those all-in-one tools are for the backyard amateurs) and for high-current-carrying terminations, crimp, then coat with flux, and immerse in a molten solder pot. I learned Mil Spec soldering for those high-grade data signal-carrying plugs and sockets. I was also involved in setting the ISO900X series of QMS standards.

[@ruudxd1]

Which crimp dedicated crimp tools would you recommend?

[@arubaguy2733]

@@ruudxd1 Thomas & Betts makes the best one I've found. Model WT111M. Today it's going for $84.00. I bought mine 40+ ears ago when it was priced in the $30 range.T&B also make the best and strongest "zip ties" Brand named "Ty-Raps" Best crimp terminals are "Sta-Kon" brand. The best do not come cheap. The cheap are found at Home Depot.

[@tmc.318]

Nice job man. Can't believe I've been doing this not optimally for 20 years. But I have. Just have to flip the tool over!!!

[@mateuszkusmierz223]

Good video but I think there should be less wire extending pass the connection than You showed on 4:28. This may result in a bolt head that is not flat against surface of the connector, but half resting on the wire, resulting in bad connection between bolt and connector.

[@datamike00]

one of those things that are painfully obvious , once somebody shows you. thank you ,much appreciated

[@harleyrdr1]

Excellently done video. For me, sometimes crimping just isn't enough. Like when you are repairing wires behind a dashboard and re-accessing them would be a hassle. When I need a bulletproof connection like that, I remove the plastic insulation, put heat-shrink tubing on the wire, crimp properly as demonstrated here, then Silver Solder, then finish with the heat-shrink tubing. That will last forever!

[@ITStechy]

Exactly! Automotive/harsh duty areas require crimp and solder! No issues when done that way (using proper wiring and routing components) and will outlast the vehicle.

[@mars1952]

I have been doing this wrong for about 55 years! 😳 Thanks, I like to learn something new every day and I can't believe it took me so long to discover this!

[@JT_70]

Just learned that I have been crimping my connectors wrong from over 60 years. I would crimp on the seam side then realign the tool and crimp the other side of the seam on top of the first. The method you showed is much easier, quicker and better. Thanks!

[@superjesus4307]

You were doing it right before

[@rafterL78]

Thanks I've been intentionally turning these the wrong way for years. My reasoning was the tool wouldn't press hard enough on the solid side but your explanation makes perfect sense.

[@RemoDesu-w7q]

Spent my whole life doing it incorrectly. Thank You !!

[@foundationsofpower3191]

Hooray! I have been teaching my workers this since the 70s. So good to see a vid on why we do it this way. The hard part is the butt crimps, but all you have to do is look down the barrel of the crimp to see where the rolled ends meet.

[@St0RM33]

No mate, you are using the wrong crimp tool; That is meant for solid barrel connectors; these are cheap folded ones you have there

[@yetinother]

So logical yet,.... You use what your boss gives you sometimes. Sometimes it's good to know just from looking at it that it sucks or you know it's good

[@FuckYouTubeCensorship2024]

This is not correct info

[@matty_isthemotto]

Facts

[@blueoval250]

What is the correct tool?

[@aaronobrien7649]

An insulated crimper Ive had many and there all pretty bad got a knipex and its been brilliant its expensive but worth it

[@JeffTygart]

Wow this is an unexpected great find this morning. I work in the HVAC industry and no one ever taught me this. I always wondered what I was doing wrong crimping. I check every crimp to make cure it wont pull it. Now I understand why my failures were happening. Thank you.

[@TheRetiredtech]

Some bad info right here along with some good. Some of his "good" crimps have enough wire sticking out it will. Interfere with the screw attaching the terminal.

[@user-yq2wk6yg8s]

I didn't know you had to do them in one orientation only, and I'd been doing insulated crimps for decades. Also I've nearly always used a simple tool which, though good quality, has both jaws of the same shape and is only 1/8" thick. I used to do it twice, so effectively using the available length of the crimped section. Retired about 8 years ago and never had any complaints but always checked things were very tight anyway. So you have given me a good amount of new knowledge, thank you. Liked and subscribed.

[@queeg6473]

In the UK we can only buy insulated crimps in the shops. So I cut off the insulation, crimp the wire on, solder the joint then cover in heatshrink. Never had one fail on me yet.

[@maidsandmuses]

I do the same. Some will object saying that soldering is a bad practice, but it only is if you don't know _how_ to correctly solder and support a connection used in a environment subject to vibration or movement.

[@steveclark..]

That's not true, I'm in the UK and have found uninsulated connectors no problem. Last lot a bought came via a UK supplier on eBay.

[@rickconstant6106]

I prefer to use the double crimp non insulated terminals with separate insulator sleeves (readily available in the UK, along with most types of terminals). Soldering does give a good electrical connection, but can cause problems with vibration fatigue, particularly if the copper has been overheated.

[@fordtechchris]

I do the same, but I'm in the States

[@OsirisNeits]

Don't use solder in automotive applications, as it can crack under vibration. A properly crimped wire is bonded to the connector, and solder is just a point of failure. The exception to this is when potting the connection, as the sealant prevents the solder from cracking or separating.

[@MrConspark]

Good video for beginners. I have known this for 40 plus years, having been trained in the RAAF. The best advice for newbies is buy a decent ratcheting crimper, saves your wrists when you get to my age. Kerp up the grewt videos

[@thespencerowen]

I never use these because they don't work well... turns out I was just doing it wrong.

[@SilverCymbal]

You aren't alone. Lots of people who think they are great at it, have terrible connections, they just don't look too close . After I changed my own ways, I no longer get the anixety when you pull that wire.

[@johnslavicek2353]

I've been doing it wrong! Thanks for the great video!😊

[@PoliticallyIncorrect14u]

As a former auto mechanic, I would use un insulated crimp connectors in under hood and under body situations, ONLY after slipping some heat shrink tubing over the wire, then crimping in the manner shown in the video, BUT, I would then use 60/40 solder and either a mini torch or soldering gun to wick solder into the crimped area to prevent water intrusion, and possible connectivity issues once the inevitable corrosion in the connector would start happening, THEN, I would slide the heat shrink tubing down over and give it the old BiC lighter wave or use a heat gun. In all my years of doing this, I've never had a connection fail. Factory plastic insulated crimps, with NO solder, I only use in the cabin of the vehicle where they are far less likely to suffer from corrosion issues, ie; like wiring in a car stereo ! Good video, just thought I would add this lil tech tip !!

[@johnc8112]

This video is one of the most informative. Keep up the awesome work you do .

[@SilverCymbal]

I appreciate that! Thank you

[@munozinni]

Hola señor silver symbal, long time no see you I’m glad I found you this Saturday 😊…Saludos!!!👋😃👋

[@SilverCymbal]

Welcome back, thank you for watching my videos

[@munozinni]

@@SilverCymbal Gracias for taking some of your busy time to reply to my comments I wish you were my neighbor I would be checking what project you’re working on around your property I always liked your reviews on tools and electrical equipment I will keep supporting your channel, I will see you in the next video…Saludos!!!👋😃👋

[@ifell3]

Yes, I always try to remember 'the knob doesn't always go into the slot' 😬

[@freda1078]

Thank you for your effort and time. You have saved some of us an ongoing headache.

[@tacocin]

Very simple but incredibly valuable information!

[@georgedunkelberg5004]

@AlWorth9738 YOUR BIRTH WAS BREACH AND UN ASSISTED. WOW! HUMANITY HAS EVOLVED WITH THE NON PROFITTING OF PAYING AND SHARING BEST PRACTICES GOING FORWARD FOR COMMUNITIES' SUCCESS.

[@GunnyArtG]

That’s the first time in my decades of experience that I’ve realized the orientation matters. Thank you!

[@charlesb7831]

I use to work in a wire harness manufacturing facility. I use to teach a lot of this stuff lol. We had hydraulic presses and ratchet hand crimps. On the hydraulic presses, once you did the initial setup for whatever wire gauge and terminal, you had to do a "pull test". We had specific machines for this, that would pull until failure. We had specific rates for what each should fail at. Some manufacturers asked that we solder the terminals as well. When I do this at home , I always solder them, because I was so use to having the pull test, and I don't have access at home, so I solder it lol.

[@hoverbovver]

Good video but you should also mention the alternative crimp style that uses a "crinkly" part of a diffent type of tool to fold the two parts either side of the gap into 2 humps. The end effect in cross section is sort of heart shaped and very strong. It seems to be more used in factories than for aftermarket repairs. I have just done about 100 joints on a vehicle using UK standard insulated crimps and a "good" tool and don't really trust any of them unless heat shrinked over.

[@olddog103]

10,000 crips later,= CARPEL TUNNEL DAMAGE

I think the reason it's not talked about much is that most people try to get a similar crimp result as we see from factory crimps where those "wings" bow inwards. Thanks for pointing this issue out. I'll do this the next time when needed. 👍

[@e303gt]

You're not supposed to use the groove with the notch on insulated connectors.

[@4acae86]

I found out about that crimper with the top about 10 years ago and it changed my life. Much stronger crimp than even the ratcheting ones.

[@timothymaimone8611]

After 40 years experience in the commercial and military electronics industry, if you don’t have the best reliable crimping tool, then solder the connection with flux, then clean with 99% isopropyl alcohol. But what about the crimp connector plastic? Use an un-insulated connector and add heat shrink tubing This is only my opinion and experience.

[@NovaNinja_]

Good tip. I used to do this in the commercial marine electronics industry. I would crimp it then solder it. I didn't clean them though, I'd just use RMA flux core solder (or no-clean but I don't really care for that stuff). I stopping soldering them because I found they only ever corroded when there's water in the wire and the wire is ruined anyway. Or it corrodes around/behind the connector and you have to redo the connection anyway. But I still believe soldering the connectors is good practice.

[@GenuineTraumatizer]

Japanese bullet connectors are GOAT. I work on vintage Hondas a bunch so invested into the tools and connectors, and lemme tell you. They're wonderful. A perfect crimp every time. Insulators go over the wire then slide up and into place for weather resistant seal. From my jeep to HVAC to my bikes to cars to every other wiring job I've done... Flawless. Them Nippon folks really do make some good stuff

[@flowerpt]

I think you made the perfect video for this topic. I mean that - nailed it.

[@cerealkiller4248]

Well well well. I never knew. As a mechanical engineer I crimp only occasionally, but often my crimps have failed the ‘pull’ test, now I know why. Thank you for the advice

[@kirkmooneyham]

I'm an aircraft mechanic and electronics technician. The information provided in this video is accurate.