Is your air healthy? Measure air quality using Nova SDS011, ESPHome, and Home Assistant.

[@MallocArray]

Thanks. I've been playing with AirGradient and their DIY kit to build a sensor package for PM2.5, CO2, temp and humidity. Got me into working with D1 mini, Homeassistant and ESPHome, so this really spoke to me

[@mostlychris]

Careful, you'll get sucked in to a world of fun!

[@marcohamacher2231]

Great video - as always. When you want to solder pin headers it is more easy to use some old breadboard instead of “helping hands”…

[@mostlychris]

Thanks for the tip! It was a struggle getting that header soldered, especially while trying to keep it in the frame of the camera.

[@RJMaker]

Excellent tutorial. Thank You!

[@mostlychris]

You are welcome!

[@daphbobo]

I am also in the process of building a setup like this woth d1 mini and a sesnsor a bit different. Thanks for the video.

[@mostlychris]

Which sensor are you using?

[@daphbobo]

@@mostlychris PMS5003, it has higher working temp and humidity, i live in a tropical area and humidity of max 70% as in Nova wont work here, in a rainy day it will go above 70 for me. hardware is almost the same but serial data sent is a bit different.

[@mostlychris]

Good points. I'm using the Nova inside currently. Our humidity gets pretty high at night outside but haven't considered using it outside right now. I'm more interested in how the air in the house is, considering we have one of those really sealed up houses.

[@jmr]

I believe you have a typo in the model number(title).

[@zyghom]

I was looking for SDM and found nothing related ;-)

[@jmr]

@@zyghom That's why I figured it's a typo. 😂

[@mostlychris]

OH NO! At least it's not the thumbnail that is messed up. I'll fix it. Thanks for letting me know!

[@jmr]

@@mostlychris I'd love to see you and Digiblur duke it out. Esphome vs Tasmota or maybe you could just give us some points about why you like Esphome over Tasmota. Assuming I'm reading your preference correctly.

[@mostlychris]

I am running both Tasmota and ESPHome. They both have their place. Digiblur and I had a live stream together awhile back (I owe him a return livestream). ESP has a lot of pre-built stuff that you can just add to your configs. Tasmota is a little more hands on, but not bad. I like playing with them both.

[@warrenscorner]

Awesome stuff! It looks very complicated. I got some ESP’s a while back but haven’t had a chance to play with them. I usually put those headers into a breadboard to solder them. Looks like those helping hands are kinda useless.

[@mostlychris]

Yours is the second comment I've read about regarding the breadbord. Definitely better than what I was using. The helping hands have their place for other applications but not so helpful holding on pin headers.

[@ngreed]

Nice video, now I have another thing to make:)

[@mostlychris]

The rabbit hole goes deeper.

[@beabea9642]

Did I miss how you got your data points into InfluxDB?

[@jmr]

My installation is set to send EVERYTHING to my database by default. I think that's a standard option when you set up a database with HomeAssistant.

[@mostlychris]

You need to setup up influx as an add-on. I didn't cover it specifically because I've talked about it in other videos. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iZbEgINqdrBmeqs

[@davidheron1505]

Chris, where did you source the Nova SDM011sensor? Amazon are saying that it in stock and are not sure if they will stock it again. Is there any particular reason that you selected this brand?

[@mostlychris]

I got it from Amazon. A quick search shows 3 left. amzn.to/3ot5jua (affiliate link). I chose that one based on availability and form factor, as well as ability to integrate into HA easily. There are others out there that I have been told about, IKEA being one, that I haven't tried yet.

[@davidheron1505]

@@mostlychris Thanks, Chris. It's appreciated.

[@felt505]

How does this compare to adding an ESP8266 to an Ikea VINDRIKTNING?

[@---nw9qu]

I'm actually doing that build (esp8266 D1 mini on Ikea sensor) right now. Of course, not everyone has an Ikea close by, but the sensor is (a little) cheaper and already has a housing/box. I suspect, though, that the Ikea sensor isn't as accurate/robust, but don't know for sure. Cheaper way to go, if you have an Ikea near by. It also has a nice external LED.

[@mostlychris]

I've got an IKEA in the area. I've never been to one and not sure if every store carries them but maybe I can order one online to test with.

[@MallocArray]

@@mostlychris you can check Ikea inventory online to make sure your store has them in stock before going out.

[@zyghom]

nice video few comments: 1- ota password could be in secret as well without showing to all ;-) 2- for ESP you can create second so called "soft serial" and specify pins for (under uart in config file) it to avoid what you mentioned at the beginning 3- mdi:chemical-weapon killed me completely ;-)

[@jmr]

So the soft serial helps with conflicts from the sensor?

[@zyghom]

@@jmr when you create soft serial you have 2 serials on 4 pins: hardware serial to connect to your PC/messages/updates and soft serial on 2 other pins, that is used only between ESP and sensor. That is the way I did for my CO2 sensor. Having 2 serials you can have (usually you have) 2 different baud rates: 115200 on the hardware serial and usually 9600 as a standard for sensors.

[@jmr]

@@zyghom Thanks!

[@mostlychris]

Does the soft serial allow for turning the sensor on and back off as noted in the ESP docs? FWIW, I was reading data on a couple of other pins before I changed the config to TX/RX but it was continuous every second and didn't honor the updated interval.

[@zyghom]

@@mostlychris on/off is not serial feature but the feature of the sensor, right?

[@stevetrapp1095]

Code ?

[@mostlychris]

Check my github page. github.com/mostlychris/homeassistant