It actually EXPLODED! HOLY CRAP!

Well, I forced 61v to these fans and these results really POPPED!
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[@witnessprotection_streams]

Trying to make things explode content. I'm here for it.

[@BoogersAndMilk]

For some people, the algorithm just knows to recommend anything with EXPLODED in the title. I’m here too.

[@Grid21]

@@BoogersAndMilk I too enjoy watching things explode some times. It'd be funny for SCIENCE watching a motherboard explode and explain how the safety features work and also testing if they are as good as they claim. More product safety testing would be REALLY interesting!

[@OhSoTiredMan]

Electroboom collab would've been nice

[@burrfoottopknot]

For context Jay said "I'm cranking the nob!" if that doesnt make an explosion of some kind I am not sure what will

[@chubbysumo2230]

Mr torgue would be proud ​@@BoogersAndMilk

[@angeldelvax7219]

The amp rating is the maximum when under load. Just blowing in free space doesn't take nearly as much power. The bell curve is likely because the fan controller is throttling down. At a higher voltage, you get a lower amperage for the same wattage. And as you saw in the previous video, when the voltage gets too high, the controller likely senses that, and tries to protect the fan. That's likely why it gets higher first, and then lower again. Also: it's very unlikely that any of the coils are actually burnt. 99.9% that the driver electronics burnt, not the coils. The circuit doesn't instantly correct any output, so when it gets an instant voltage spike, it takes a moment to slow down, causing initial current to spike. If it's only a short spike, there's a chance that it didn't generate enough heat to burn the driver components.

[@baarum]

Looking for this comment found it. The rating is either under max load or stall current.

[@ColonelCoffee]

To add to your comment, the current is the direct cause of the magnetic field that makes the fan spin, causing the fan to slow down.

[@FilthEffect]

Didn't read all that but I hope you have a nice Christmas

[@angeldelvax7219]

@@ColonelCoffeenot the measured current. When you push too far, the driver components actually pass a lot of that current, to limit the current through the coils. That's why on the thermal image you see the hotspot to the side, and not where the coils are ;)

[@--_DJ_--]

@@FilthEffect Why would you waste you time commenting, but not bother to read it? It only took a moment.

[@sausagemcgregory]

Voltage is proportional to current and resistance is a constant. As you increase the voltage the current will also increase, the resistance in the wire and windings will increasingly get hotter until the excess heat melts the insulation ( normally on the windings of the motor ). As the heat increases the resistance will also increase causing the current to fall. This is why the bell curve comes into play. If you apply lots of voltage very quickly the fan's components, such as capacitors and resistors, are designed to operate within specific voltage limits. Applying a higher voltage can exceed these limits and cause these components to fail, disrupting the fan's operation.

[@legros731]

You got it wrong more volt will pull less amp Ohm law man the fan pull a constant wattage and volt x amp = watt

[@sausagemcgregory]

Ohms law is V=IR where I is the current R is resistance and V is voltage. You are quoting the Elecrical Power Equation which is Power P = V Voltage X I Current@@legros731

[@mikezappulla4092]

⁠​⁠​⁠@@legros731what are you talking about? Ohms law is R=V*I or a variation of this but the fans also contain resistors and capacitors and the temperature does not remain constant so you have to use Joules law with Ohms law.

[@mikezappulla4092]

Well put.

[@Ambeastly]

@@legros731that’s not ohms law. Voltage = current x resistance is ohm’s law. But your theory is right. The fan is designed to pull a maximum amount of power (wattage). Power = volts x current. So, once the motor meets its max power draw the constant voltage increase will mean required amperage will decrease.

[@Trinatek]

This is one of the most heartening videos I've seen in a long time. You could just tell this was just two friends fucking around, and that's the best.

[@leeroy_rcu]

Watt = Amp x Volt. When you sudden change the voltage the current responds inversely as the fan is still spinning at the same rpm (the fan is still doing the same amount of work momentarily) That is why the amperage spikes when you turn down the voltage until the fan slows.

[@mid88night]

I was trying to find a way to word exactly what you said. I'm pretty sure this is what was going on... the still spinning fan was acting as a generator and reporting it through the PSU as amps in relation to rated (degraded?) voltage.

[@TheROOTminus1]

The current spike when the voltage gets killed isn't just the momentum of the fan in a generator effect but also the energy in the magnetic field of the coils gets dumped into that generator effect as the field collapses.

[@thebreatho]

Exactly, the wattage is what makes the fan spin, so if you get the fan to 20 volts 1 amp it's pulling 20w, when you suddenly get it to 1 volt, the current tries to go to 20 amp to sustain the load (20w), your PSU lets you control the voltage, so the amperage is variable, it will try to provide the wattage being pulled by the fan. That's why current lowers as you slowly increase the tension, if the fan is rated for 12v-0.35A, it reaches max speed at 4.2W, that means if you supply 20v it will only pull 0.21A at the same speed.

[@Aaron48219]

Exactly, Ohms Law

[@Darthgenius]

Counter emf. The turning motor is still generating votage.

[@bruceelegge]

13:24 The bell curve is caused by the resistance increasing as temperature increases. There is a direct correlation to temperature and resistance in conductive materials. It also explains the other effects seen with short bursts of power to the fans.

[@pipez3307]

I do this for a living in the mechanical industry and this content is scalable, I love this stuff!!!

[@pipez3307]

Ohms law is your answer at the 4min segment. Amps*volts=watts, this is also divisible.. watts/amps=volts, watts/volts=amps. It's called ohms law because it is all plausible because of resistance, which is measured in ohms.

[@DigitalJedi]

@@pipez3307Ohm's law is V=IR. The power equation is P=IV, which thanks to Ohm's law can be stated also in terms of either I^2 or V^2 and R.

[@RevMet]

@@DigitalJedi this is correct

[@ryanbarryaudio]

Unmatched content. Thanks for what you do Jay. Hope yourself, the team and the family have an awesome holidays :)

[@1NewEggFan]

Couldn't have said it better!

[@williamtufts3600]

Jay made an entire video with exposed running fans and didn't stick his fingers in one of them. This is truly a historical moment.

[@michalmichalsk]

slow droping amp draw is because coils are heating up and resistance rise with temperature which limiting current.

[@edbp7689]

The curve you mention is from the MPTT: Maximum Power Transfer Theorem You get the most power transfer, that is the most efficient power transfer when the feeding circuit and the feeder circuit have roughly the same (theoretical) resistance

[@big0bad0brad]

There's a lot of misunderstanding around that - first it only works with simple resistive sources and loads, and we have neither of those here (well technically it works with impedance too but these fans have active controllers and they don't behave like simple stuff anyway) The way it usually gets (mis)applied is in audio when someone says you have an 8 ohm speaker and that means your source should be 8 ohms for max power transfer. Nope - this only works correctly the other way around: If you're *forced* to deal with source resistance, then you should make the load match it for maximum power transfer. Like, the way to make a brightest 9V battery powered light bulb is by having the filament resistance match the battery resistance when it's lit up, but you have to understand it's a workaround to get the most out of the crappy battery, but given a choice, if you had a 9V battery that could supply more current (less internal resistance) you'd be better off with that, and that same bulb would be brighter. Anyway, having lower source ohms is always better and lets you transfer more power for a given load and driving voltage behind the source. All you have to do is compare a couple basic circuits in a simulator to see this.

[@grimmurk]

As for the 0.37a rating: I'm not super familiar with brushless motors, but the general consensus is that motors will have what's called start-up or "inrush current" up to 6 times its normal operating current.

[@mrctuned2844]

Hence the need for "starters" on bigger AC motors

[@glebglub]

also since one popped, capacitors being charged is an inverse exponential, of current so takes a HUGE spike on the initital 1ms, half of that at 2ms, half of that again at 3ms, etc.. the same is true with discharging them, where you get a massive spike then it takes aaaages for it to dissipate ALL the charge as it gets slower and slower. fune fact: there are places that test things effectiveness against lightning that charges huge-ass capacitors and let them all discharge in a massive spike (howver iirc the biggest one is only about 1/10 the power of real lightning)

[@dwain.d]

20 years in motors (rewinder) here. That's right, AC motors will keep pulling current until they get their load away. It's why running a motor under voltage can be much worse than slightly over voltage. To counter this initial load on motor circuits we use things like type D breakers for single phase, HRC fuses and mechanical (star/delta) or electronic starters like VF drives and stuff. Motors with brushes (typically DC motors unless it has slip rings or something) they're usually just started by gradually increasing the armature voltage.

[@grimmurk]

​@dwain.d it could also be LRC, but consumer marketing tends to be more vague on their ratings lol. Where as commercial motors and components have a nameplate with full, tested specs

[@dwain.d]

@@grimmurk as in locked rotor current? Yeah that's 6-10x but something you're not meant to see unless the breaker or control gear has failed. We rewind motors straight from the factory for one big manufacturer if the customer wants a specific spec and they provide all the extra data including LRC which is always some ridiculous number lol. Motor starting is roughly 4x. I'm still staggered at the amount of motors I see burnt out because the bearings have collapsed, it has tripped circuit yet the on-site maintenance electricians will keep trying to turn it back on 🤷‍♂️

[@scottnieradka6836]

This is quality content. When i was an undergrad i had a pointless netops job at a university in a closet of old surplus equipment. We made etherkillers to every possible cable and blew stuff up all day out of boredom. old g3 era apple puck mice were the best, they flew into the air when getting 110v ac. that and the 110v to scsi hard drive adapter made pretty sparks.

[@TheCrystalGlow]

So what you are seeing is back EMF when you suddenly cut voltage to an inductive load. In this case a brushless fan. It’s also why you see sparks when you suddenly let off the trigger in a brushed drill. 😊

[@ChrisWijtmans]

what brushed drills? are you from the 80s?

[@user-xu2pi6vx7o]

​@@ChrisWijtmansCheap ones are brushed.

[@Darthgenius]

Ahh beat me to it.

[@Nightykk]

Not sure if you know how VxA works. 100mA at 12V vs 100mA at 20V is still a 1.2W to 2W difference. If the RPM increases or not, it sure is drawing quite a lot more power. At 22.36V x 83mA it's still at ~1.86W.

[@P4NCH1]

If I was the one next to that fans, I would be below the table while testing haha. I've already experience fan blades literally exploding to pieces due to overspeed stress. It's scary! :P

[@chadmckean9026]

When someone wires the high performance 120v floor fan to 480v on the summer job site

[@LovelyDoetje]

Like some cd exploded while spinning in you cd-drive.

[@Phailsaphe]

As someone who works on cars and has seen many alternator failures and power window failures what can happen sometimes in the coils of the motor can short to a lesser place on the motor. Normally insulated, the protection melts and causes the motor to use less coils than are built in, it draws less amps (less coils, less resistance) and functions worse but can still function

[@DrakkarCalethiel]

One reason why hitting the fans with sudden high voltage causes high amp draw is shorted MOSFETs / controllers. Cranking it slowly is way harder on the actual coils of the motor and drivers. Once a FET / controller overheats, it burns out due to high internal resistance. A short can still happen, but sudden voltage spikes are way "better" in creating a dead short, be it gate to source or even a total short between gate, drain and source in case of MOSFETs. You basically destroy the delicate isolation barrier in semiconductors this way creating a low resistance path. Slow cranking causes degradation which often yields in high resistance paths in the power region. Not a true expert, if someone has a better explanation, feel free to correct me.

[@DrakkarCalethiel]

One other reason: You give the fan time to spin up as fast as it can by cranking it slowly, thus keeping current relatively low all things considered. Sudden increase in voltage causes the current to spike till the fan has reached maximum speed. But to confirm this, you would have to plot the current draw in the spin-up phase. If I'm right, current should go down once the fan reaches max speed. My huge arse room fan definitely draws more current at startup, but it is an AC fan, not comparable to a BLDC one.

[@myselfremade]

Because it's a sensor less brushless motor, the controller does "experiments" to find out what orientation the rotor currently is at, as soon as it gets power. It essentially shorts out coils temporarily in order to see what happens on the other coils. When the voltage is higher, the controller is able to push more current into the coils during this phase, and then also during the acceleration phase shortly after. Essentially the motor draws the "locked rotor current" until it is up to full speed. Which is up to 10x the nameplate value, depending on the design of the controller. All motors do this except very specific current limited ones for massive equipment

[@myselfremade]

I have a 15 horsepower fan for a grain dryer, it draws over 100 amps at 240V during start-up. Rated to do so for up to 30 seconds. The power and torque is huge, and the 60hz noise during startup is very loud. Once up to speed the fan is loud enough to cause pain to human ears within 10 feet of it. Ear protection is mandatory

[@arthurmoore9488]

@@myselfremade Fun fact, AC motors often have a "starter winding". This is an additional winding to get the thing started, and there's a switch inside the motor that disconnects it when it reaches a certain speed. The "fun" comes from if that switch doesn't work. The starter winding draws enough current to fry the motor. Heck, even without that, many motors are designed with internal fans to keep them from overheating. Not enough airflow or stalling the motor causes them to overheat and die.

[@myselfremade]

@@arthurmoore9488I know this.

[@lemonman9477]

I have the perfect explanation for Jay, you money shift the fan. The momentum of the spinning blade starts to make energy and the circuit it wasn't capable to handle the excess amps

[@Midcon77]

Testing to destruction - you MUST make this a new thing. Nobody else really does that. Think of it - you can test all the truth in advertising thing!! I LOVE IT!

[@craven3190]

Thank you for your video on the wire view. I went and purchased one yesterday.

[@krillen64]

I love when you make videos like this from time to time. They are just plane fun and do don't make then to often either.

[@rwschumm]

You're a braver man than me. I would never try this without safety glasses...

[@brandonnoyb3191]

This was a great video y’all and my self was entertained. Thanks.

[@Truesk8er1]

Love ya jay, appreciate the content

[@michaelhaider53]

I really enjoyed this one LoL! Happy Holidays Jay and the Crew.

[@JackMacWindows]

Thank you for reminding me about my AC circuits final tomorrow morning 🙃 I'm not an expert on electric circuits, but I'd guess that the "bump" in current as voltage goes up may be due to resonance in the circuit, since a motor has an inductor (coil) and resistance (wire) in series, and maybe some capacitance. It could be reaching the resonant rotation frequency, which will affect the current. It could also be maximum power transfer as another commenter said, but that requires changing the impedance of either the fan (which shouldn't really change AFAIK) or the voltage source (which may change with voltage, I don't know the internals of power supplies well enough, but if it uses a potentiometer-based voltage divider, this is plausible). I also noticed that when the cheap fan shorted, dividing the voltage by the current gave an exact circuit resistance of 60.833333 ohms at 12.41 V. This sounds like there's a 60 ohm resistance in series with the power input, for which a .83 ohm resistance sounds about right. This could explain why it didn't spin as fast/deliver as much air as the others - its power input was being limited. It could also be the capacitors, which I'm not really sure why they're there (someone smarter could add some insight); or it could be arcing from a near-short-but-not-quite inside the blown cap.

[@bryanwhite2685]

I love when Jay says "For the sake of science today...", LOL!!! You know it's gonna be fun.

[@sixteenornumber]

We had halon extinguishers where I used to work. Before using one the rule was that you were breathing from a SCBA which was very similar to the one firefighters use. You should consider replacing that with a co2 extinguisher.

[@raggarex]

12:12 The amperage spike when you suddenly crank the voltage I think is basically the same as the inrush current. Initially the velocity of the motor is not producing enough back EMF to counter the spike in applied current that is proportional to the voltage spike, following Ohm's law. But it's been a long time since I've worked with motors. NOTE: Edited for clarity.

[@derdes4475]

Blowing up the be quiet fan and following it up with an ad for the be quiet case? Classy!

[@peterlennon1139]

Best video in AGES!!! THANKS

[@davebrooks69]

When a motor is turning, it is also acting as a generator. The coils create a back EMF, limiting the current flowing through the motor. When a motor is stalled, there is no back EMF to limit the current, and it can burn out. When you blip the voltage suddenly while the fan is stationary, it acts like a stalled motor, and allows a huge current to flow, blowing the coils.

[@jacksterprime2925]

If i remember from school, the delay in voltage is because of the capacitors, caps take time to charge and discharge. But the motor (coil) still see the load coming to it and it gets hot. Most likely when a motor burns its just the small wire at the beginning of the coil that burns and not the actual coil it self

[@crisscrossam]

i work with power supplies like this at my job (mind you i'm not an engineer or anything) and what i noticed the few times i did this is that rotating the voltage knob very quickly actually creates an amp reading without anything being plugged to the power supply. so it may be that turning down the voltage so quickly near the end of the video induced some current? into the fan that messed up something in the inner circuit.

[@azorees7259]

maybe when you pop it up and the amps fly up its like a power surge you get in your homes sometimes which can make electrical things go pop ( normally due to old or bad wireing )

[@Bawlswhet]

The boost in current is because at a stop, electric motors are a dead short until they begin spinning. The resistance of the stator depends on the rotor spinning. This is essentially the resistor. The faster the rotor goes, the more resistance you will get. Electric motors do have some weird discrepancies that don't always follow Ohm's law. Having taken electronics engineering technology in college, I was able to stump another teacher in trade school when I asked him why running a motor at a lower voltage causes the current to increase, when Ohm's law states I=V/R. Inductance is the key here. Inductance is creating a magnetic field and when it is opposed, that creates resistance. This, of course, works to a certain degree and that's why motors are manufactured with spec voltages. If you exceed those voltages, coils get too hot and increase resistance in the windings and you get less current, and therefore less speed as the coils' magnetic field is being hindered. This dead short is why Capacitors are put in to motors. When a voltage is applied, the capacitor slowly charges and increases output voltage for the motor to start up safely and not blow your breakers. If you overload those capacitors, they don't have time to charge at the pace they want, and therefore just blast the damn motor and there you have your short! :D

[@devonlethbridge]

Best time of year and great funny videos! Hahah

[@Weezlenut]

This reminds me of electronics class in high school. We were working on breadboards building out circuits and one guy go the bright idea to see how much voltage it took to burn out a through-hole LED. He did a few of them by slowly turning the dial and they got pretty damn bright. Then he decided to just crank the dial and all of a sudden there was a loud >pop< and a guy a few rows away that wasn't watching yelled and grabbed his arm. It turned out the LED exploded and the guy got hit with the shrapnel. Another time the teacher was demonstrating how to make sure capacitors were discharged by bridging the terminals. He was demonstrating on ones that were the size of soda cans. Most were empty, a few made a good spark and one had the top blow open and start erupting the electrolyte like Old Faithful. The teacher said "Huh. In all my years working in electronics I've never seen this happen before." While he's just staring at the plume one of the kids asks if we should leave and he says "Yeah we probably should."

[@sykoteddy]

Oh was I exited when I noticed that this follow up video was already here when I was finished with the first one! 🥰

[@axellenaerts5960]

The electro magnets are inductors and inductors have some weird properties I think that is what happens when you give it a suddon increase in voltage. nice vid btw. :)

[@Chrish1981]

Wow you came back with that video quick, nice 👌

[@Dustycircuit]

The reason it might be ramping down at 21-22V could be due to a TVS-diode (Transient Voltage Suppressor) clamping the voltage down. You should open it up and see if you could see a small diode between positive and negative

[@camir22]

Towards the end you putting the power supply into Cc mode , constant current. So you adjusting current but allowing voltage to vary vs load.

[@didiersavard6809]

Most of those fan are giving back info on the speed to the pc, so one of the burning comp. could be the speed sensor system and related feed back control.

[@jjpark98]

I always love these shenanigan videos where you're just messing around with no clear goal other than to have fun or to test limits.

[@aleksandrbmelnikov]

Jay, these are brushless PWM fans. It's not the wire coils that can't handle higher voltage. It's the tiny controller chip on a PCB under fan hub. Edit: To any and all trolls who want to correct me, take one apart, look for yourself, and shut up.

[@leegriffin1584]

Almost an electroboom crossover! Thanks guys, I enjoyed that.

[@anth5189]

As the heat in the conductor increases so does the resistance hence a drop in current. So you are correct you are starting to over heat the wire until it pops like a fuse.

[@nico_53]

One thing that could explain the amp peak when you drop the voltage is that power (watts) is linked to voltage and amps. For the same amount of power if you drop the voltage you will need more amps to do the same thing, ense why the peak. It’s why to transport electricity on long distances we use very high voltage, so the amps are down and the conductor doesn’t heat up (because with distance the resistance of a material increase so it heat up and eventually melt)

[@AdmiralAnonymous]

This brings up some good memories from the time when I went to ICT school, screwing around and hooking up random computer fans and small motors to a power supply, pushing them way past 12V and often times seeing them die quietly or release the godawful smelling magic smoke 😆

[@dwain.d]

20 year motor winder here. This content is fun 😅. Reckon you would have a blast with some of the stuff in our workshop Jay. While it's mostly boring AC motors we get some fun stuff like DCs, alternators, and fans big enough to climb inside.

[@johnscaramis2515]

1:58 this effect is due to the Lorentz force. A current flow in one direction will cause a current of opposite polarity (or flow direction), hence the sum of all currents will be below the rated current.

[@rednarb7740]

As someone who has gone to the hospital with hot shrapnel in their eye, 10/10 recommend safety glasses when sploding hot spinny bits. Novicane in the eye and watching them dig bits out is overrated. Love the videos, helped a lot in my PC part selections!

[@mytech6779]

The sudden power spike when dealing with motors: The external input voltage is not the net voltage experienced by a moving coil. A motor and generator are very similar and basically they are both just short circuits when sitting still. The static coil resistance is very low, like a couple of ohm. The reason the current does not runaway like a short-circuit is due to the reverse voltage generated by the coils moving through a magnetic field. (More correctly referred to as "Back EMF", but self generated reverse voltage is sufficiently descriptive for this comment.) The reverse voltage is determined by speed(more correctly the rate of magnetic flux passing by the conductor, so more magnetic field strength can have the same voltage effect as more speed). Lets say the stationary DC coil resistance is 1ohm and when running at 12v you see 0.1Amp, the reverse voltage being generated is 11.9v, the 0.1A needed to overcome fan resistance is being pushed by the 12v-11.9v=0.1v difference between reverse voltage and input voltage. Increase the load and the motor slows down, thus the reverse voltage drops and the result is a bigger voltage delta to push more amps, more amps equals more torque until an equilibrium is reached. Now do the opposite, remove physical load from the shaft and then actually start adding an assistive force to spin it faster, and the reverse voltage will exceed input voltage pushing current backward, and presto you have a generator! Now with that background if you slowly increase voltage with light loads the physical speed has time to increase and counteract the input voltage. In a theoretical ideal friction-free no load situation with slow changes there would be no increase in amps with voltage, in which case the only two limits on voltage input would be RPM related mechanical strength and the electrical strength of the insulation on conductors. When you spike the voltage, the motor has not had time to physically speed up, so the coil sees the full voltage delta and it is a very low resistance circuit. So current goes up proportional to that delta. Say your fan has a ton of inertia, made of tungsten or something and it is humming along steady at 12v with 11.9v reverse voltage to get 0.1amps, now you smack the input to 15v as fast as possible the coil is going to experience 15.0-11.9=3.1volts of net potential over its 1ohm circuit and thus 3.1amps of current. You will [ideally] also get 31 times the torque and quickly accelerate to higher rpm where reverse voltage is higher and drops the voltage delta until equalibrium returns.

[@buleini]

your question at 12:24: most people would call it regenerative braking nowadays - its just the fan spinning the coils - not the coils spinning the fan

[@primaltempest9218]

Phil got to relive the magic smoke while editing. I feel a bit bad but, then I remember the gag noise and laugh again.

[@ISuckUnderPressure]

Very very basically, as voltage goes up, the required current to achieve the desired wattage goes down. Lots of times, these motors are solid up to 36v. If you look at a d5 pump top it’s rated for 12-36v. Beyond that, you start running into the heat problems that kill the motors

[@jjhack3r]

The coils aren’t the failure point. It’s the little Hall effect sensor that switchers the coils on and off. It’s a little 3 or 4 pin chip that senses the magnets orientation and it’s the reason those fans are brushless.

[@_.francescodm]

I was waitin for this

[@Elliot8654]

LTT - We're gonna spend WAY too much money on a massive power system to precisely control everything! Gamers Nexus - We set up the most rigid testing methods to determine exactly the performance characteristics under complete control Jay - I GOT BENCH POWER SUPPLY, FANS, AND CAMERA! LETS ADD VOLTAGE UNTIL KABOOM!! This is why i love this channel so much! This is what I would do given the option.

[@fghsgh]

6:33 haa when my uncle was little he once asked "can you hear that stench?" and everyone has been making fun of him for it ever since. glad adults do it too!

[@SideOfLameSauce]

I could while away the hours Conferrin' with the flowers, Consulting with the rain; And my head I'd be a scratchin' While my thoughts are busy hatchin' "If I only had a brain" 😂

[@Friedbrain11]

As the voltage goes up so does the temp of the copper wires. That increases resistance, especially at the small size of the wires in those fans. When resistance hits the right temp it goes into runaway and thats when it crashes.

[@ChairmanMeow1]

When you started talking about the smell, I swear I could smell it too. Its such a unique (awful) smell and its always associated with parts failure, so I think my brain made a connection with that smell and trauma lol.

[@awilliams1701]

I believe caps are designed to resist change in voltage. So it makes since that a dramatic shift would result in massive amsps

[@mikel8190]

I haven't dealt with any super small electric motors, but larger ones (1hp +) have a startup current draw that can reach 2x running current and require time delay fuses .

[@Z1mmb0]

TLDR: some info: voltage = speed limit current = Torque limit overvolting basically unlocks speed limits. failures depend on design of controllers. 1. most limit the amount of current -> overvoltage deaths like popping caps, breaking insulations within components 2. rest dies to overheating as current is not limited

[@freshkryp69]

Overheating used to be a problem until I installed a couple Delta THB1712BG fans.. Its like the big block Chevy on 70psi of fans!~

[@robertcolangelo3751]

Do what i say not what i do.... best explained here kid's.... Great video

[@JamiePineappleWyatt]

Cranking voltage increases the speed quickly, acceleration is what demands current to flow, or load. Going slowly keeps the current demand under control, which is where all the heat comes from,. This is a secret I learnt from hotrodding ebikes, you can throw more than double the voltage than rated at most motors, but if you dont be conservative with the current, then things start melting. (Experience, running 120v 10-35amp Lipo on a Bafang BPM1 20" wheel for over a year, melted the planetary gears doing a burnout, but survived daily operation for well over 10000km)

[@scottheighton5971]

I loved Jay's Electroboom moment! 😂

[@nilsenbj]

also, an electrical motor will draw a heck of a lot of current in the beginning, as a start current, and then normalize after a few tenths to half of a second, since the wire in a coil is basically almost a short when the rotor doesn't spin.

[@michaelkafoure786]

The in rush current is higher on start-up. Sometimes, 2 or 3 times normal running amps, which may cause them to heat and pop with a fast ramp up in voltage.

[@TonnyCassidy]

the part where its partially shorted but still work is where the mosfet of one of the phase is shorted thats also why the fan sterted shaking

[@docferringer]

12:55 If Linus was watching this he probably subconsciously started drafting an HR apology letter. lol

[@--_DJ_--]

I'd recommend a shield of some sort to go with the fire extinguisher. When you get to the point of safety squints, it may be time to rethink what you are doing.

[@keithvsmith]

I will preface this that I am no expert on this, but 1 thing to keep in minds with shorts and coils. Where the short happens along the length of the coil matters and will affect how much resistance is still present after the short. For example, my job uses these PWM control LED Light panels, which are kind of like an LCD. There are 4 LED strips inside an aluminum frame that shine into a plastic layer with a diffuser layer over top. The issue is that the manufacturer of these panels never bothered insulating the solder points at the 4 corners where the strips are jumped together, and the power lead is connected. So, they end up shorting out in our units when they ground out and how bad they short out depends on if the short is halfway down the led strips or at the very beginning. When they short at the power lead connection, they fry out the controller board they are connected to. I have seen the entire electrical trace on the PCB delaminate itself from the board.

[@traceysharpe6330]

Electricity is described by three terms: Amps (amperage), Volts (voltage), and Watts (wattage). Often you will see amps, volts and watts listed on electrical items. Amps are simply the amount of electricity used by the item. Volts are the measure of the force of the electric. Amps multiplied by volts gives you the total wattage (workload). Understanding how the three terms relate helps with understanding the electrical requirements of an item. Amps X Volts = Watts (Amount X Force = Workload) Electrical items require a certain number of watts to run, and if the total watts exceed what the circuit can handle, the circuit kills the power as a safety precaution. For example, if you attempt use a microwave, a space heater, and a vacuum cleaner at one time and all three electrical outlets being used are connected to the same circuit, you will trip the breaker requiring you to perform a reset. Always check the electrical requirements for the item that you are installing to determine whether or not the item will require its own dedicated circuit.

[@che-weihsieh975]

Sparks a Be-Quiet fan. Immediately cut to a Be-Quiet advertisement. Love that.

[@noahoverholt4145]

I dont know about turning the dial fast, but as voltage and amperage increase, the wiring exceeds its capacity and starts to heat up. Heat in a conductor raises its resistance thus the amperage goes down and the fan slows

[@Wizard013]

That Fantech popping as Jay reached for it would be an epic short in slowmo LMAO

[@nuubialainen]

With Delta fans you should crank amp knob too. That was only idling rpm for delta. :) Just played with 60mm 5.9A Delta couple days ago. Like a jet engine.

[@TigTex]

Those fans probably have TVS diodes in them that are designed to short the power supply if they exceed their rated voltage to save the hardware from a catastrophic failure. Commonly seen in HDDs. The fans that you are testing are modern and have regulation. You increase the voltage but the RPMs don't go up because there's a controller monitoring that and decreasing the motor speed. Because Watts = Voltage x Amps, when you increase the voltage, the amps go down because the fan is regulating and keeping the same power consumption, until some IC or regulator exceeds the rated voltage and dies with a smoke show. Try this with very old school fans (those that come with molex connectors and nothing else). Those usually don't have controllers and spin until the motor windings melt themselves with so much current going through them. Running fans at 24v using the +12v and -12v rails in the power supplies used to be a thing! PS: the rated fan amperage includes RGB LEDs power consumption and the initial spike needed to spin up the motor that you can only measure with an oscilloscope. That's why it's so far away from normal running conditions. Nominal amperage will be much lower.

[@juergenstremmler2286]

When a copper wire (in the motor) increases temperature its resistance is also increased. The higer resistance of the copper wire can then lead to lower amps when increasing voltage. So this is a clear indication when to stopp increasing voltage and avoiding killing the motor.

[@DrBernon]

12:00 When you lower the voltage fast, I think it dies for a fairly simple reason. The fan turns itself into a generator because of its inertia. That sends backwards currents to the capacitors. And those are electrolytic capacitors that blow up when voltage is applied in the wrong direction. Or at least that is my theory.

[@Guardian_Arias]

LEDs, Water Pumps, Bare wire (AKA primitive lightbulbs), Vape Coils, and if you are feeling frothy then some lithium batteries. They all have varying levels of excitement and overclock ability. Batteries with a little bit of knowledge you can manual charge one back to life but with just barely not enough knowledge you can turn a would be saved battery into a flare that could incidentally save your own life under the PERFECT circumstances.

[@yspegel]

That curve is there because the wire resistance increases with heat, so then you know the point where it starts to get interesting. Like a good old light bulb, it instantly goes to high temp, then the resistance increase prevents higher currents. Except the light bulb is oxygen free, the coil of a fan is not. As for the amp spike, you're melting trough the isolating layer, creating a short circuit. Also, I'm not normally one for safety first.... but with these experiments, safety glasses might be handy 😜

[@MrMcGreed]

Phil, Nic - PLS PLS PLS! Keep Jay bored, this content is pure and utterly hilarious

[@pernis_colossus]

making things explode for fun and educational purposes is probably one of my most favorite thing to see

[@ukspawn666]

"hay, shhhh, shhhh..... can you hear that smell?" *inhales* "yeah, dude!"

[@dennishellesen7212]

any motor has a 5 times larger power draw on start up thats why you use soft start or "star - triangle" start modes on large motors

[@user-cc4pj4qc7h]

When mass is in motion it's easy to keep it in motion, but at some point the motor just can't keep up, that's why you see a bell curve. Also high amp draw at low rpm is the same principle, need power to maintain mass in motion.

[@matteo_z]

9:59 when I was a student studying electronics, I've seen my classmates blow up caps, but I've never seen in my life the insides of a cap explode outwards like that. Who knows, maybe replacing that cap fixes it. Caps are usually the first to take a beating and save other components in the circuit, usually.

[@mathieusavelli9016]

Steve: This "could" be a fire hazard. Jay: Hold my beer!

[@bootyjuice87]

I would love to work in your shop. Seems like a lot of fun.

[@FarmerEnvoyXtreme]

9:03 Best moment of the video. One way to make some explosive content

[@thibni_]

That cat clip as Phil gags was perfect.

[@JosephArata]

Inductive reluctance. Motors have a certain stable RPM they will spin with a given current and voltage for their rated resistance, before the electromagnetic eddy currents they produce, will inevitably slow the rotor down to equilibrium. Attempting to force more current and voltage through the field windings will only heat them up creating a thermal failure.

[@Doofindork]

Bringing the public what the public wants! The magic white smoke coming out of things!