It's Finally Done! - Massive Home Network Install - Part 4: Building The Rack!

[@camerongray1515]

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[@GuerillaTVChannel]

Hi Cameron I was wondering if we could have a chat. I am developing a web server and I am struggling a bit with the enterprise architecture of the build my email is [e-mail]

[@RuxUnderscore]

For the antennae, I recommend using a permanent marker and drawing in a line at the mount point that shows where the the vertical height is, then a horizontal line from the pole on to the mount, to mark it's horizontal alignment. That way if you ever have to readjust it, you know how you lined it up during this.

[@camerongray1515]

That sounds like a good idea, I'll definitely do that next time I'm in the attic!

[@LUNATIC75]

The Madman actually did it! Well done.

[@mito-pb8qg]

"It's Finally Done!" ...and other fun jokes we tell ourselves. ;D

[@reynold.lariza]

Yeah... Guilty as charged as well 😅

[@Hatch3dLabs]

Guilty as well!

[@AdamK3l]

Future Cameron will thank you for taking the time to do all of those keystones and extra runs! 😀

[@RossTheGenMan]

Great work. I don't think many people would take the time to do all that professionally like that. Definetely something to be proud of

[@mrman991]

Nice work :) Having patched thousands of ends in my years, pulling them long so you have space to sit comfortably and then pushing the excess back into a cavity is the way to go.

[@MrTolcher]

This series was a monumental effort and turned out incredible. I really like how you named the patch panels, real out the box thinking. Thoroughly enjoyed this series and to be fair all your vids are top notch. Thanks for sharing this journey with us Cameron. EPIC!

[@TheoMScott]

A guess on the numbering of the cable - it's probably in 1/16". 10/16" == 15.88mm

[@camerongray1515]

That would definitely line up! I had a suspicion it would be some weird imperial size/something related to AWG but I hadn't thought about fractions of an inch!

[@kbhasi]

Ooh yes the final part to the series! When it came to your temporary network setup, I was reminded of when I upgraded my Internet connection (including an upgrade from GPON to XGS-PON service) during a home renovation and had to put together a temporary setup where I only connected one of the new Wi-Fi access points. 2 days ago, as of posting this comment, I had the opportunity to finish setting up the network. You setting up the aerial in the attic and having to get the positioning just right did remind me of a someone else's KZbin video where they had to do the same thing, and someone commented about how they had the aerial positioned just perfectly to get good signal reception until someone accidentally bumped it while they were working in the attic.

[@Eurisko__78]

I can't believe I just sat and binged this whole series :) So lucky I found it just after you uploaded the last video. What a great job! I'm a sysadmin and I'll be buying a house next year and was thinking of doing exactly this but don't have much experience with the cabling side of things. This series was EXACTLY what I needed :) Are you an electrician by trade? I only ask because I thought you needed to be an electrician to modify a consumer unit. Thanks for taking the time to film and post this amazing series!

[@camerongray1515]

Thanks! Not an electrician although I'm a massive nerd when it comes to this sort of stuff so I make sure that I've studied anything I'm doing to within an inch of its life before I do it myself. Electrical work in the UK isn't like gas work where you need to have specific qualifications before you can touch anything yourself. Certain work is classed as building control notifiable which generally would need an electrician to sign off however which jobs are notifiable vary between countries in the UK and types of properties, nothing in this video was classed as notifiable work in Scotland. Of course everything still needs to be done correctly and in line with the relevant regulations but it doesn't necessarily matter who does it, as long as they're "competent"

[@ronhansen7717]

Good job. I did the exact same thing 20 years ago, when we built our house and everything is still working today with a few upgrades along the way.

[@JaeTLDR1]

I would look at lacing bars to put under the rear part of the bundles. This will allow you to alleviate the gravity forces and you can tie the bundle loosely to allow for management

[@daibonehead]

Such an impressive Labour of love (and logic). Inspirational! I don’t know you but I’m very pleased for you.

[@palasmash]

For the cable management, while the way you have it still looks awesome. If you wanted those super clean cable runs where the length behind the rack is the same. You’d want to put the patch panels in their intended location first. Then bring the unterminated cable to its slot in the patch panels, and then cut and add a keystone. TLDR do the keystones last after everything’s been measured.

[@marksapollo]

A brilliant epic effort Cameron, looks really neat I think, I like the sensible way you've separated the huge bunch of cables in the rack. Well done, the aching arms and back are worth it lol.

[@Elemino]

27:58 in the US I’d recommend you add an LTE filter to the antenna input. You should research to see if you need one as well.

[@VW_Fan]

I have really enjoyed this series of videos. Can’t wait to see what you have next!

[@bradmesserle999]

Nice nice setup and great narrative explanation of each component

[@PGraptor359]

I do structured cabling for a living and there are a several different ways to do the panels (which vary on the individual engineer or what specific clients want) but for this job I would have grouped the cables in their respective patch panel looms then put them in braided cable sock (from just above where they come through the ceiling). Then routed then into the cabinet to the panels leaving whatever length you wanted (Normally we would have cable tray in the cabinet and tie the looms to this). Then pass each cable through their respective ports on the panel, install the ties loosely on the panel cable management panel to hold the cables roughly in place. Then run a permanent marker across the cables at the front of the panel which give you a mark to strip the cables to. Then you can remove each cable individually and terminate before clicking into the panel and tighten the cable tie.

[@aaronletchford]

Brilliant work thanks for the videos really enjoyed watching them all,

[@labbiee]

That rack looks AMAZING! I haven't ever seen a bus bar solution like that for grounding (i guess thats just me being a consumer) (also 8 dont have stuff grounded in my rack at all which is probably bad 💀) but thats such a nice solution!

[@JKNProductions]

Just found your videos and love this. Looking forward to your future videos showing the servers you will create/add

[@aRndBelgianGuy]

Really neat job man ! Can't wait to see what you'll be using for amps / streaming / audio distribution 🤘

[@IanScottJohnston]

Quite a bit neater than my install.....LOL! I have a small narrow cupboard in my house where my ONT/router/pfsense lives, but my server/UPS/NAS rack lives in a converted garage and I've run fibre between them just for fun. Am always tweaking the setup!

[@jtmusson]

Fantastic series! Thank you!

[@sygad1]

handy tip about labelling the cable

[@kevinhughes9801]

Looking brilliant great job enjoying these vids thanks

[@rd806]

Now my top networking channel

[@SproutyPottedPlant]

Acorns!!!!!! Look at that beautiful A5000!

[@Kieran28]

Well done Cameron! I’m very jealous

[@andljoy]

I think you have done a good job, i dont like top feed but i can see why in a home setting you would do that and you have a service loop. Its not like the estates team have had some random crap installed again without speaking to us and made a mess of..... sorry over share. I like your numbering scheme for home that works well. I have a top tip for commercial to save your cable installers time (if they understand the system). Get pre numbered panels ( i know the excel 6a angled ones are) and use that to your advantage, give each cab a code e.g ZA then give each patch panel a letter A B C D and so on, the panels already have port numbers so port 5 on the second patch panel in room ZA would be ZA/B05, tells you the room and the panel in 5 characters and you only ever have to label each panel whit one letter saves SO much time labelling on the cab end.

[@dave24-73]

Temporary you could just use a normal power strip for your HI-FI gear, plugged into that orange adaptor the tv is powered from. When I travel I use a powerstrip so I only need the one adaptor plug.

[@callumrowley2203]

You are on a newbuild. The timber kit will have a membrane with foil and foil backed rigid insulation. Been caught out with loft aerials before and had to mount externally. If you're in Edinburgh you should get black hill or if you can fire over towards the forth you should pick up Craig Kelly in fife. That's the one I tend to aim for in Edinburgh mid and east Lothian

[@Paulruk]

That’s an impressive home network, well done. Agree with doing cameras but personally I just put in a backhaul for a mesh network in our house ie 3 cables . I have an about 60 devices connected about 80% are wireless and it’s rock solid on a 10gbe wifi 7 mesh. Even though most devices are wifi 5 or 6 they run well. For example I tested my Plex media with and without wires , a video would start in about a 2 seconds and there was about half a second difference from the time a 4k video played back. Just doesn’t seem worthwhile all the hassle wiring in media devices for less than a second delay.

[@solarhomelab]

Awesome video / work. Its amazing how long the rack / termination of cables takes and I always under estimate this part of the job.

[@alik250]

1:15 clearly you've never lubed keyboard switches before!

[@HometownUnicorn]

I totally love this. It's so overkill for a house, but man see if I could get away with having this I would

[@Mav_14]

Great video series. For your normal plugs/transformer plugs have a look at Olson Electrical, they do a great 5 Way 2U Horizontal 13A Individually Switched Rack Mount Plug PDU, not cheap but great quality

[@stonent]

So the way our cable install contractor does it where I work, is in your rack set up, they would have bundled them on the left side with velcro every 6 to 10 inches or so and they would be a U shape on that side

[@Sausages-c8o]

What UPS are you running for the rack?

[@DavidPelan]

Dude that is sick! Very envious. Tried to strong arm the other half for multi room audio but given the amount of wall chasing, plastering and repainting ive had to just to get my cat6 runs to where i wanted them (gave up on cat6a as couldn't work with it in 35mm back boxes from the bend radius to where the conduit was run) there was no way i was getting the green light for more cabling. Looking forward to the next video!

[@andyhello23]

Always great seeing these sorts of series You never said, why you wanted shielded network cable in a home network. Was there some reason you did that over just normal unshielded cable for home networks? Great vid by the way, ie the series, you add the knowledge base of youtube, and its always great to see new stuff.

[@scooterjes]

I don't know if they make it but you may also consider getting one of those network TV tuners link the HD Homerun we have available here in the US.

[@TRS-Tech]

Exelent job and very nicely done.... just a be careful for you - check the ground bond that the spark terminated properly, i have had those bondec grounds with stray voltage on them. Check it with a DMM. Well done 👍

[@whatthedeuse]

I think I would have brought the cables out the ceiling in 6x6 glav trunking or more basket, taken it to the back wall of the garage down the wall, left the cables to go down to the floor then dressed them back up into the cab with sock with a service loop to be able to move the rack back and forth then got cable tray mounted on the inside of the cab velcro up to the patch panels, then terminate all cables on 2 patch panels, grouping them in room order works but just looks a bit off with the gaps a port is a port as long as it’s been ID so super easy to find regardless of which room it goes back too 🤪

[@jonathanInLondonUK]

I'd definitely recommend locking IEC connectors. If your PDU is APC, then IECs which lock into the kit in your rack, and IEC cable sleeves over the plugs which make them a nice tight fit to the PDU, rather than the proprietary APC locking connectors.

[@wiebowesterhof]

Although I have done the patch panel with cable management bars setup before, especially as you have the type of network connectors you're using (which can be moved if needed), I would do switch between the CATx panels. This allows you to have space for the switches to dissipate heat, and have nice short patch leads. It also gives you way more space at the bottom of the rack for servers, UPS, power bars, all that kinda stuff. The audio cables could be closer to the amplifiers in the same fashion. Either option works just fine. Looking forward to the end result!

[@wiebowesterhof]

You mentioned the switches not being in between due to what you had before. Fair enough. Unless you really need POE and high speed on all ports, using a lower POE speed will save a ton of money, and then get some 10G switches and perhaps an aggregation main switch post-router. Most likely the higher speed stuff is for APs (2.5G with POE++ should work fine) and then 10G for the servers and high-speed-useful computers in the property. Regardless of my initial comment, those brush panels and blanks make the whole thing look pretty awesome anyway! Looking forward to the next episode

[@camerongray1515]

I'm just using the switches I already had, eventually I'll probably upgrade to a simpler solution but sticking with what I have for now. Even with new switches I'd still want to keep them separate from the patch panels due to the number of cables that'll be running to other devices in the rack for video and audio distribution.

[@finlays-crazy-life]

Brill series, thank you! Will you be showing the alarm too? :)

[@ess2k456]

I would like to see the multi room audio setup please

[@roander1337]

For your crimps, I have a feeling one has measured in cross-sectional area (16mm2) and the crimp has done diameter (10mm).

[@DanielTekmyster]

I used a patch panel for my coax cables in my home, making the short jumpers to the amplified splitters was so tedious!

[@TheMattSturgeon]

Your bonding cable will have its CSA printed in regular intervals along its length. Note that depending on the "class" of cable (i.e. how flexible it is), the actual diameter of a 16mm² can vary quite a bit; i.e. those lugs may have been sized for the more flexible cables typically used in automotive applications.

[@camerongray1515]

Yep, turns out it does, 16mm2. It's just extremely faintly printed so I couldn't find it when I first looked.

[@JayChristopherson]

Sometimes it is nice to have the cable length on the patch cable label as well.

[@Cablesmith]

What we doing for the multi room audio?

[@albertmwai5925]

hello, I don't know if you have noticed, but the parts you skip, are actually what we wanna see.

[@camerongray1515]

I'd love to show everything but things like installing patch panels and switches are really awkward to film - it's hard enough trying to do it while working around a camera and keeping everything in shot, but a lot of it also involves trying things, not really liking it and then rearranging things to try something different. I have a neck mount for the camera and I do want to try doing some more POV stuff in the future though, I was also just really up against it time wise for this particular video.

[@albertmwai5925]

I totally understand...no biggie, all shall be well. Keep up the good work; awesome content as always

[@andrewmcewan9145]

It's a bit late to do what we did at work for our network racks. The netwoek cables came in the top did a full top to bottom loop bundeld together on the way back up they came out to the patch pannel. Then was cut to length on the pannel the big u was tied to a back/side wall of the rack.

[@77gradge77]

Absolutely amazing! I want to do this, rough cost?

[@seanhood980]

It could be the crimp tool. I bought one of them £35 hydraulic crimp tools for criming 16mm2 cable for my van. 16mm2 cable and 16mm2 lugs from a reputable local auto electric shop crimped with the 16mm dies would slide off, if I used 10mm dies with 16mm2 cable and lugs I got a solid crimp.

[@persona250]

A bonding conductor is used to connect extraneous conductive parts to the main earthing terminal . Your rack has no extraneous potential. What you have is an earthing conductor connected to an earth bar . It does look like a 16mm compared to the width of your thumb .

[@balsanghera]

I always split my cables bundles in half 12 cables from left that patch to ports 1-12 then the next 12 coming from right that patch in to 13-24

[@BerndGiegerich]

Nice, congrats for your installation! And no, you didn't overdo the infrastructure part. Maybe you could have gone with some ports less (which I don't believe and which doesn't make that much of difference) - but if you want to keep that number of ports under control. you hit just the right amount of structure. Working on possible issues may be nice and interesting right now. But if in ten, fifteen years the connection of

[@JL-rx6hl]

sort out a support for those tv cables coming out of the amp so they dont have all the weight hanging off the f plugs, when the summer comes (?) the cables will get warm in the attic and sag more

[@simondixon8375]

Looks like an amazing job you have done there. What are going to use for multi room speakers as in what amp and speakers ?

[@JurassicJungle]

Nice job but I do wonder what it will cost to run all that gear 24x7

[@techheck3358]

ive seen some UPSes also have an earth terminal on the back - is this to provide bonding, through the power plug & house wiring, or to bond the unit itself with an external conductor like you have in this video? i assume a dedicated conductor would be better, but just the UPS terminal would be better than nothing? thanks :)

[@nekolivegaming]

thats the first time ive seen an aerial installed inside the actualy attic. here around most of them are outdoor rated for roof or wall mounting outisde. but hey the build is coming along.

[@camerongray1515]

They're rated for outside use here as well, but it's relatively common to install them in attics since they're relatively unsightly, especially on houses without chimneys since it would need to be installed on one of the outside walls. In my case, it would need to be installed right on the front of the house which would look pretty ugly.

[@nekolivegaming]

@@camerongray1515 understandable. A lot of aerial we get thru just regular dishes or even square antennas that usualy fits better in, personaly dont mind it to much but there again i dont even use aerial cuz first i bearly watch tv and most tv now a days especialy here in the city is IPTV

[@bartoszj7576]

you are doing very clear explanations and professional movie. I follow your channel for a while (view years :)) and my question is if I send you some very simple pictures with my situation with short plan what I expecting from my network . are you able to give some advice how to do it right with off course some price ? my network will be much more simple and smaller but I see you are professional and I am amateur but I want it be done right way there is any chance to help me ?? and can you tell me aproxymitly price ?

[@landkdem]

You are going to have problems with the speak on plugs with the cable once you wire them up as they look that they will stick out to much that you want be able to shut the door on the front. Looks like you might have more space on the back of the rack ? Nice job

[@camerongray1515]

I made sure to check, there's plenty room to bend the cable neatly around and through the brush plate below.

[@alpine7840]

^Wonderful video. Thank you sir!

[@mtraynor00]

Where did you get the speakon connectors from

[@lukasibanda6730]

What brand of labeling machine did you use?

[@lawrencemanning]

Power draw in the middle of the night? I’d love rackmount gear, but it’s pretty greedy!

[@camerongray1515]

I haven't had a chance to measure yet, it's not insignificant but equally it's not ridiculous - I tend to stick to relatively modern, power efficient kit rather than buying older ex-enterprise hardware.

[@lawrencemanning]

@@camerongray1515 good plan. Perhaps I’m just misinformed from playing with refurb’d gear. But equally, I can’t believe the progress over the last decade has been enough to make that big a dent. Very, very keen to see your data! PS. Love your videos. 😀

[@MikrySoft]

Those crimp lugs are marked in mm2, assuming nobody messed up when stamping them, they should have internal diameter of about 6.3mm. If they are correct that means that either your cable is smaller than you expected or you bought better cable than the lugs manufacturer expected. The cable diameter depends on how thin the individual strands are. Normal 16mm2 cable for electrical installations uses 0.41mm strands, giving the diameter of about 6mm. A 16mm2 welding cable, which uses very thin strands, has a diameter of about 4.5mm, close to what a solid wire would be for that cross section. So either you spent extra money on thin stranded, more flexible cable, or your crimp lugs are mislabeled.

[@Eleven.Eleven.1111]

Good job, well done! Did you consider using ubiquiti gear? Also, which amplifier are you planning on using.

[@manslayerdbzgt]

Unify has a vertical PDU and it's you know manages like the PDU pro except it's vertical with way more plugs

[@camerongray1515]

Looks nice although UniFi's PDUs only really target the north American market, they don't do a 230v version with UK outlets or IEC connectors.

[@adamcoffee738]

Usually the lugs will say CL16 to suit 16mm², I have no idea what SC stands for.

[@RebelRacingTech]

Screwfix messed my cabling up a couple years ago. I ordered 6mm cable and they gave me 2.5mm

[@Ror0c]

What ISP are you with and what speed is your connection in the new property?

[@Allan.clark26]

Hi Cameron Couple of questions. Been watching your videos as plan to run cat 6 network cables in my house. Am looking for double port outlets in each room. What do you recommend for face plates. I have a virgin router. I looking to buy a tp link 24 port switch. Will this work ok or will the router cause issues. Any help will be appreciated cheers Allan

[@between-paradise-and-hell]

damn that must be costing you a fortune to run.. How many watts is that rack pulling?

[@edc1569]

What’s the power consumption of the rack?

[@benjaminsmith3625]

Those Ezi-rack plates looks really neat. The 1U plates at work are horrible to install in comparison, especially since we like 1U gaps between servers 🙃 Looks like that TV amp PSU does have a plug you could reterminate?

[@Bilbo56]

Is your new build anywhere near where the Royal wine school used to be at Craig Miller?

[@GregMurch]

How did you decide where to place your rack? I am in a 1910 house with no garage, so wondering where to place my rack?

[@camerongray1515]

For me, my plan was always to put in the garage from the second I found this house - it was the only place with enough room for a rack that was also far away from any living areas of the house to avoid noise issues and there is a cupboard directly above the garage that could be used as a riser cupboard to get cables up into the attic. For your situation, you'd be best to place the rack in a location that (a) is located in a location that is relatively easy to get cables to from around the house, (b) isn't going to be too hot/too cold and (c) is far enough away from any living areas that the noise won't bother you or other residents.

[@Geoffbell01]

Excellent video. What’s the internet connection in your new house ??

[@jorisdevaan6845]

OCD Approved

[@Cablesmith]

The crimp codes 16-6, 10-6 etc your right it’s meant to be 16mm cable 6mm hole. Probably just Amazon junk and it’s wrong. Did right using the one that fits

[@GmorkDK]

@camerongray1515 Which cables markers did you use? They look great.

[@ruimarinho]

Have you used stranded or solid cables for speakers? 2.5mm2?

[@camerongray1515]

Stranded 1.5mm2, none of the runs are really long enough, not am I dealing with high enough power levels to make 2.5mm2 worth it

[@alanjrobertson]

The mega series continues! BTW so is your main Internet connection coming in on that original builders cat 6 rather than 6a? (not that I suppose it makes much difference given speeds of Internet connections vs what cat 6 can handle, but just wondered!). Also would be interesting to see the full 10 gig network tester that you mentioned in a previous video too.

[@camerongray1515]

Yeah, it comes into a fibre ONT in the understairs cupboard and then runs to the rack over that original CAT 6. Realistically there was no point replacing it with CAT 6A - That CAT 6 will be good up to a 10Gb/s connection. My main reasoning for the CAT 6A was to ensure 10GbE would work over even the longest runs and also for HDBaseT 3.0 video distribution in the future. It made sense to just use the same cable for every new run rather than installing a mix of CAT 6A and CAT 6, but there was no real point in replacing existing runs.

[@robertsandy3794]

Hi Cameron, Epic install. Am jealous. Was wondering why you didn't connect the antenna to some Cat 6A converter and the effectively you have the ability to bring a tv to every port

[@camerongray1515]

CAT cable isn't really ideal for transmitting an RF signal from an antenna. While it's possible to use "baluns" to do it, it'll be nowhere near as good as running actual Coax which itself is really inexpensive (the 100m reel of CT100 coax I used in this video was £15 on clearance!). If you wanted to use CAT cable to transfer a live TV signal, you'd be better off to use some sort of network based TV tuner, however I personally prefer the simplicity of just running coax to each TV and using the built in tuner.

[@calummcmillan9672]

@@camerongray1515 I've used Catline equipment for some hotels, it's good, Cat5 to all the rooms and basically TV AMP patch panel kinda thing, came with RJ45-Aerial Cables too. Got it at Eurosat beside Comtec ;) got some spare kit in my loft, it's yours if you want it

[@kmcat]

29:50, check the polarisation of your aerial. I'm sure Angus is vertical polarisation and your aerial is setup for horizontal

[@MhzUHF]

Web says Angus Is Horizontal. (Main Transmitters Horizontal Relays Vertical). I don’t know the area

[@kmcat]

@@MhzUHF You might be right. I look at an housing estate near Dundee and check what direction they used

[@camerongray1515]

Well identified on the correct transmitter but it's definitely horizontal: ukfree.tv/transmitters/tv/Angus. Suspect any nearby estates that are using vertical may be using a local relay rather than the main transmitter

[@MhzUHF]

@@camerongray1515 Yep often Small Relay Transmitters serving small housing estates sometime only have 3x MUX the PSB Public Service Broadcast sets of channels BBC ITV C4 C5 etc + some extra

[@tomashrncir8280]

exzellent

[@Bob-TheTechGuy]

I have spent like 8 hours at a time terminating wires. Your fingers feel like they are going to fall off after that. Its NOT fun. :)

[@thebyzocker]

awesome

[@Bilbo56]

Is your new build anywhere near where the Royal wine school used to be at Craig Miller? it looks like a 10 mil cable to me oh yes, I used to go to the Royal blind school in Edinburgh all the not a lot of site but enough site to do the job that you are doing now I used to be a network/server engineer as well as network engine technical project manager

[@terrydennis467]

16mm² cable = 10mm diameter

[@robintodd3901]

Really your giving the rack a potential it never had. Do you know that if the water pipe which comes into the property is plastic we are now not meant to run a main bond to it. I’m sure it will be fine though. PME (TNC-S) earthing system into the property and the incoming neutral fails, that rack definitely becomes live. Worth looking into and the implication it would cause to the equipment in that rarer situation and obviously everything connected to the network while that broken neutral hunts for a path to earth. TNS or TT it’s not an issue.

[@camerongray1515]

I'm well aware of earthing arrangements and the risk of a PEN fault. Realistically, the rack would already be connected to earth due to the earthed metal networking devices that are screwed to it so I'm not really adding any additional risk. The dedicated bonding conductor just ensures that the path used for bonding the shielded cable is as low impedance as possible. In the event of a PEN fault, the risk from metal electrical accessories and kitchen appliances coming live is significantly higher than a rack in a garage that rarely gets touched. In terms of the earthing/bonding in the property, it's a TNC-S arrangement, water is plastic so isn't bonded, but the gas is. There also appears to be some form of foundation earth electrode installed.

[@robintodd3901]

@@camerongray1515 and I’ve had exactly the same argument as you’ve put forward for bonding the water. Boiler CPC and if not a combi then the immersion CPC. 👍 Why I still bond the water regardless 🤷🏻‍♂️ for a lower impedance connection as you’ve said as it is earthed if only by a 1mm CPC. 🤔 Ask me it should be SSE who require to mitigate the potential. I have never seen a foundation earth electrode installed or stipulated to us as part of a new build. I did hear talk about the possibility though. From an electrician, you seem to have done a tedious and nice job 👍

[@just2elste]

So a 16mm kablar is ruffly 7.25 mm