ITEAD has a new product line: Sonoff TH Elite!

[@nkgudih]

Great! - I have missed the info on how the temp log is included in the TH-Elite. The temp log must be able to show the temp over a period, and downloadable, just like they have in the POW Sonoff's. Great vid, and thank you.

[@byrev]

Sometimes the log freezes and all you have to do is delete the device from the application, reset it and add it again... but you will lose the previous logs, so it has a bug!

[@hudsonsoares6752]

Concise and precise info! Thanks a lot! I was looking for info about Alexa integration to be sure it would inform me the temperature! Thanks for the info!

[@notenoughtech]

pleasure is mine!

[@drincogni]

The Rj11 is a great touch, small easy can be spliced

[@chuxxsss]

I think, I have the original POW unit. Never need the TH one myself.

[@drorr3431]

THANK YOU FOR A VERY USEFULL AND CLEAR BRIEFING!!! I have recently bought the SONOFF TH ELITE and a Temp/Humidity (T/H) sensor. I have been using the eWelink App on my iPhone to monitor the Temp/Humidity in my attic. Here are my questions: 1. The T/H information logging from the sensor to the eWelink seem to take place once an hour.... Is there an easy way (in the App) to change the T/H sampling time from the sensor (every few minutes to every few hours...)!? If so - could someone present a clear way to do so? 2. The system works well at home, when my iPhone is in the proximity of the Wifi Router. However when I get out of range of my home Wifi network, I can't manually operate the "Device" (the outputs) which is hooked up to the TH Elite. In other words, touching the circle (virtual button) on the iPhone Screen of the eWeLink, does NOT do anything. Is there a setup on the eWeLink App itself which would allow me to operate (read the T/H on my iPhone and operate the virtual button) from beyond the range of my home Wifi network? 3. In another home application (not the attic), I would like to be able to turn on the wall Air Conditioner (A/C) in the house, before I get home (thus from beyond the range of my home Wifi network). To do that, I plan to tap into the A/C remote control unit, and run out two wires from the On-Off button on it. I would like to connect these two wires to a "Dry Contact" of any small Sonoff receiver. It is not clear to me what (small) Sonoff "gadget" would do that job.... Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Yes - I am an Electrical Engineer and very handy, but I do find the Sonoff provided English language descriptions difficult to understand at times...... THANK YOU !!!

[@notenoughtech]

1. No - we are stuck with defaults. 2. You have to check if your router is not blocking eWeLink ports. Sounds like your app (and devices) have issue posting back to cloud. 3. Take a look at my DIY smart heating video it will give you some ideas

[@typxxilps]

I still wonder if the usual one , that origin or Elite can be upgraded too by soldering such temperature sensor to the board or connect them to gpio ? The only difference is the headphone style port this one comes with.

[@jmr]

RJ11 is a great idea. I bet a lot of buildings have the wiring and it isn't being used.

[@Johs4490]

Thanks for your video :-) is it possible to catch the data on a home assistant?

[@notenoughtech]

There is a home assistant plugin for ewelink otherwise you need to flash tasmota

[@edfx]

3:37 RJ much better connector for sensor. Vexve uses those connectors on their heating controllers. jack connectors have risk of shorting when plugging it while device is on. Sonoff manual even advises not to plug or unplug when device is on.

[@notenoughtech]

Personally, I would pick something easy to be fixed at home. In case you ever need to do DIY and RJ do require special crimpers

[@edfx]

@@notenoughtech I disagree. RJ crimpers are dirt cheap and readily available in any supermarket, electronics/computer store or home depot. jack cables require soldering either if you splice or change the connector - which requires way more skill, tools and patience than crimpinging RJ connectors

[@mnm972]

Hi Thanks for the video! I'm new in this home automation, and I really like your videos. Could you please post video on flashing it with Tasmota, And how to set it up and uses. Thanks!

[@notenoughtech]

Once I have it flashed I'll cover it for sure

[@MiggyManMike]

Impressive, the video has been up mere moments and already two bot post :d

[@notenoughtech]

I'm on it :)

[@jmr]

Too bad those bot's aren't working for societal good. KZbin isn't doing a good job of video notification any more.

[@DDDDD428]

How does one connect it to power? Does it come with the power cable or does one have to buy one separately? Is this the kind of device an electrician should install? Seeing the exposed wires at 5:45 makes me a bit queasy. I'm interested in using this only for the temperature sensor, I wouldn't use the relay function.

[@christianmeinert8806]

This week my second! POW burst into flames. First was version 1 only for measuring a washing machine and second was version 2 monitoring a 50W 12v pump of my pond. My trust in sonoff devices is very low (even I like the new series)

[@notenoughtech]

Have they both failed in the same way? It's worth investigating what failed on the boards. I have 2 in use at the moment. Both for over 2 years now.. so far so good. Which revision was it?

[@jmr]

More info?? I suspect the majority of people here have or are considering installing Sonoff devices.

[@ol-np8sy]

How many Amps was the machine pulling..reactive load ?

[@AsankaAmarasinghe]

I've had a pow monitoring my air conditioner (split type, inverter) for over 2 years now and it hasn't skipped a beat. Either you are extremely unlucky or something's going wrong with your wiring.

[@christianmeinert8806]

Both failures are similar but not the same: The washing machine is a fairly modern one with A+++ Energy Label. It was a Ver 1.0 POW model. The machine wasn't running (I detected the fault because I could not start the machine.) It didn't happened during the time the machine was running as it would be obvious by a not finished program. Washing machines in Germany have 10A fuses so they pull less then 2KW. I'm not an expert but it "burned" around the fuse and big resistor (inrush current limiter?) between live and neutral. The second (recent) was a Ver2.0 board connected to a 50W pump with an 12V Transformer running 24/7. Here there are burn marks around the resistor and smoothing capacitors (not exploded). Not so violent as the first one but the case was is melted and totally deformed. I know the R1 POWs hat problems with the Relais but they look unharmed. What concern me most is that in both cases the fuse didn't done it's job. I read a lot of Chinese fuses not performing in specification. (google "sonoff pow fire" and you can see some results similar to mine) The fire protektive plastic did the job to stop the flames. I will replace my last POW device ASAP. I don't see a problem if a device fails - that can happen. But clear signs of fire and melted plastic is not the failure mode I accept.

[@drorr3431]

I have several THR316D monitors with THS01 sensors. Using the eWeLink. Each monitor can read the temperature and the humidity from one sensor which is plugged into it. Is there a way to modify or add some inexpensive hardware (perhaps using the dry connector), to switch between several Sensors? In other word, every push on the eWeLink button would advance me from sensor to sensor (room to room)...?

[@christianmeinert8806]

They (again) did not expose the NC pin of the Relais. So in applications where the normal mode is ON the Relais is powered all the time! This is not only bad for the environment but also bad for the components of the internal power supply (see my experiences with POW devices catching fire)

[@notenoughtech]

You have a power on state control for this. Relay state has nothing to do with power supply as the supply of pow as it's still needed to keep the IoT part functional.

[@christianmeinert8806]

@@notenoughtech I was not clear enough. Nearly Every relay has a common and a NO and a NC pin. For applications where the state of the connected device is normally powered it would be great if the NC pin is available. I.e. my pond pump. If the temperature is below 0 degrees centigrade it would good to switch the pump off. This is only a few percent of the year. So the relay has to be powered 99% the year if only the normally open pin is exposed.

[@notenoughtech]

@@christianmeinert8806 this Sonoff device only powers up your target device when needed. The default state of the relay is NO so your target device is off when there is no power. I'm struggling to understand the issue. Dry contact doesn't solve your problem regardless of the NC/NO configuration but shifts the power delivery to another device. Bottom line is you either have power delivery control (relay online) or you don't (relay has no power) as both of your devices have no power

[@byrev]

20A Relay is FANHAR W15L-1A2T-L2 model, which does not have a NC pin, only NO ! The 2nd relay (Dry Contacts) has NC and NO, but the wiring is not designed to withstand the 750VA rating that the FANHAR FH38-1CSGH relay supports ... is max 30W (5-30V and 1A) From this point of view, Sonnoff has a very big gap, and I hope to bring an upgrade to this model soon, maybe a new, more versatile DIY model! To get a NC + NO contact you need an additional component, a contactor... but in this way the complexity and price of a project increases, which is not good considering how inflation is evolving today! P.S. Today I modified an Elite model to support dry contact on the 20A relay... and it works perfectly!

[@angeligle1]

@@byrev how dry contact can works 20A 220v?

[@litris]

Hello, do you know the pin layout on the RJ? It is to know the connection of a dallas ds18b20 or a DHT22. If you have an adapter it might be easier to measure with a tester each pin of the RJ with the pins of the jack. Thanks!

[@nkgudih]

I learned this new elite is troublesome. First, it uses RJ9 nor R11, 2nd, even after setting it on Auto, the system failed me as it did not cut off after 60 degrees and my boiler overheated, prompting a pressure relief to open. The TH Elite auto setup are so different from the old TH and unfriendly, unless there is something rong i am doing

[@notenoughtech]

I'm guessing you were using correct units for your temperature? Also I had some issues with readings with one probe but the other probe was ok... so not sure if this could be the case

[@awaagrikh8331]

If wifi is not connected, will the temperature condition still in effect?

[@DamienCouriou]

Hi, great video. Can you setup target temperatures with decimals number ? Like 25.5 ?

[@notenoughtech]

I believe the resolution is .5 so yes

[@ronm6585]

Thank you sir. 👍🏻

[@MrPhloo]

Nice descriptive video. Can the relay be controlled in scenes based on input from other sensors like Sonoff SNZB-02? For example: One may use the dry contact to connect to a heating system. Then place several Sonoff SNZB-02 temp sensors in different rooms. Could then a scene be set up to configure a temp threshold for each room and if any of the treshold are passed then the relay inside TH Elite should turn ON. Is such a scene possible?

[@notenoughtech]

You can link other sensors via ewelink automation panel

[@PeterScargill]

Ok I need to catch up.

[@notenoughtech]

:) any time!

[@ChazmillsADLT]

Does it come with a probe? I have ordered one from Amazon and it shows the probe in the picture. If it doesn’t I’ll just r3turn it anyway! But my point is, it’s not so clear if it comes with or not!

[@notenoughtech]

Yes one is included. But if you want a specific one (there are multiple probes) you need to order it

[@Heike73]

Good video, but u do have a question. I want to use one like this for a engine heater for my car, but if the outside temperature is more than freezing, is the output still on if you have it in the automatic scheme? or is that possible to skip..

[@notenoughtech]

You can define the range of temperatures to turn on/off and duration so for example if temperature is low and it's 6am turn on the heater for 30 min

[@Heike73]

@@notenoughtech Super duper... Thanx for answering so quickly..

[@allthegear-noidea1298]

Is there anywhere to source these in the UK ? I'm interested in upgrading my underfloor hotwater heating system. I have 14 thermostats throughout the house on structured cabling, so I would want to push the RJ11 sensor over the structured cabling and use the sensor in each room, with all the TH Elites in one cupboard. So like someone else, would be interested to understand the wiring of the RJ11

[@notenoughtech]

They are relatively new so for now only through official sonoff sources. In time re-sellers will get their stock but you'd be better off ordering now as it will arrive quicker

[@NaorElkayam]

Have anyone tested if the button is really connected to GPIO0? Tried it just for testing and it didn't work

[@notenoughtech]

Yes it's connected. I used it for flashing

[@MarcelBerteler]

@@notenoughtech can you make a video of how you flashed it, or what functionality was exposed after flashing?

[@vedranart]

Why it doesn't have a ground wire input and output? So how would I ground the heater? Tnx!

[@notenoughtech]

I assume by ground you meant "earth"? You can still earth your appliance if you want. Just run the earth wire independently. Your appliance will be grounded and therfore safe, and only switch will be exposed to mains shorts.

[@tamasdebreczeni5335]

Sonoff hardware is good, but the soft in the eWelink app, is primitive and limiting. This thing with the TH series auto mode is just dumb. If I have it in auto and I want to turn it off with the zigbee button, is not possible.

[@notenoughtech]

I believe custom firmware is available for it now. That would be a better alternative if you are willing to invest the time to flash it

[@robertinogg]

How accurate Sonoff is?

[@notenoughtech]

I had a 10W bulb read as 9.8W. it read 9.8W on other devices so I say accurate enough

[@robertinogg]

@@notenoughtech Great. Thank you.

[@user-eh3mg4wm7d]

Hi. Please giv me color pin RG 11 connector ???

[@notenoughtech]

I'm sorry could you explain what are you after?

[@MarcelBerteler]

@@notenoughtech perhaps pin layout of RJ11?

[@mickymargalit]

TO MUCH INFO TO FAST TALKING .....

[@notenoughtech]

You have a written article linked in the description which you can take at your own pace