I MADE A STEEL CNC MILL FROM SCRATCH (desktop version)

[@SeanHodgins]

Check out epoxy granite casting. Its a cool way to make really rigid and strong machine bases without having to pour your own cast iron. You know, when you inevitably decide to make an even bigger machine. 😁

[@ivanmirandawastaken]

That will definitely happen so I'll need to find me some epoxy granite yes.

[@HeimoVN]

I was looking for this comment. It is crazy how many epoxy granite based cnc mills KZbin has been recommending me lately lol..I am totally convinced it is absolutely the way to go. I have even seen some machines made with some high strength concrete...

[@McGutschy2]

@@ivanmirandawastaken Yes, Yes, Yes!!!!! We are living in great, great days! 👍😁👍

[@glass1258]

@@HeimoVN some of the finest air bearing Swiss machines are epoxy granite based

[@joshuahuman1]

You could probably get by with just a epoxy and sand epoxy granite then you could just 3d print a hollow machine and fill it with epoxy granite

[@john-lucdiazirizarry4524]

The passion, devotion and absolute energy that you display in every new video motivates me to keep pushing and learning more about my interests in engineering, machinery and 3D printing. The editing is spot on and the music reminds me of 80's workout montages. Much love from Puerto Rico 🇵🇷

[@ivanmirandawastaken]

I give my everything. Thanks!!!

[@dieSpinnt]

@@ivanmirandawastaken The project and the work are great, thank you for showing that off:) But the video editing? What is that supposed to be? A Rust video in the style of a 12 year old(sorry for that comparison)? Especially when showing work, these quick cuts give the impression of inconsistency instead of suggesting a fluid and professional (and also traceable!) workflow. This creates an absolute feeling of uneasiness in me, even dizziness, which distracts me from your actual art. Putting the focus on the chord accents in the music and connecting that to the video?: I think that's a great idea. I'm a guitarist and at the next concert I'll put a drill-press on the stage and work on the side. It will definitely be great if the audience and I only half concentrate on the essentials! Just my opinion, I'm sure some others like your way of presentation. I place more emphasis on seeing what is being done in a calm, learning-emphasizing, and fluid manner. These ADHD cuts really hurt me to look at. Okay, It doesn't matter, there are plenty of other good machinist channels out there and I didn't want to nag about it. Sorry, I was just shocked! :) P.S.: I watched it to the end ... not that you think ... How about the important stuff? Like tolerances, measurements, parameters of the mill? That wasn't even a topic. Hey and your machinist skills are wonderful. What needs a little love are the teaching and presentation skills. Again, just my opinion and in no way a demanding request. Do what is fun for you, period:)

[@Acaykath]

Ivan Miranda - He builds the tools to build the tools. Legend has it that one day, he will have all the tools he needs to actually finish a project.

[@foxabilo]

That would be horrifying.

[@laiquocbao2565]

you should use the milling head to face the "table" itself to ensure the parallelism of the table in comparison with the the xy travel plane of the milling head. the squareness of the Z travel in comparison with the xy table can be check and tram after that. Ohh, and awesome, awesome build as usual, it just needs some fine tuning and then you built yourself a beast

[@GbpsGbps-vn3jy]

A few advices from my point of view (and at least 50 or 60 custom build CNCs): 1. Weld using magnetic angle clamps 2. Never ever drill or hammer the base of already mounted rails 3. Use CALIBRATED metal blocks when centering things to be parallel 4. After you think the machine is complete, just pick the dimensions of calibrated object like precision steel ball with CNC precision steel touch probe and then recreate it. If the dimensions of the copied object are not close to the original, then you have a problem

[@tanzinsiam7559]

hi can you help me to build one ? i need one for my bicycle workshop where i need to make some critical parts for that i was thinking to make 1 myself but couldn't find a good detailed walkthrough video or guide to follow i think 0.01 mm is more than accurate enough for my line of work

[@GbpsGbps-vn3jy]

@@tanzinsiam7559 It's not rocket science to build one, you just need to have enough money to complete the project. As first step you can pick the working dimensions of the CNC to target those of the biggest bicycle part

[@paulc9803]

By far, most compact, comprehensive & smart design & fabrication I've even seen on KZbin. Very appreciate for sharing.

[@shaiseg]

Now that you have a better CNC, you need to mill replacements to the 3d printed ball screw mountings from aluminum, to make it far more rigid.

[@gaiustacitus4242]

@Ukranian Robokop If he decides to go with epoxy granite, then he should just use an aluminum skeleton and encapsulate it. It would be impossible to get good results by attempting to fill the thin wall steel tubing.

[@Steelcrafted]

Shoulda filled everything with sand to increase the vibration damping

[@nukularpictures]

@Patric Nope sadly that is not true. That is the problem about harmonics. If you hit the right frequency you will get a lot of oscillation even if you take very shallow cuts. And this frame will have a ton of problematic frequencies. Also you can just fill it with sand after it is in position. And if you ever want to move it you can just take the sand out via drain holes. WIth some vibrations sand actually flows quite well.

[@kaden56]

@Patric Also shallower cuts also means you are going to only use a fraction of what you should on your cutting tools. You’ll end up with every bit having a dull tip and virtually untouched otherwise, not efficient.

[@nukularpictures]

@Patric Yes I am saying that. And I am quite confident. Because if you hit or are close to a resonance of the frame no matter how little energy you put into it the amplitude of the vibration will increase. That is just physics. So often it is a much better alternative to just change the RPM and feed rate to get out of that spot. The problem here is however, that tubes often resonate quite well at a variety of frequencies. Yeah ok. If you go very shallow the dampening of the frame will be enough but at that point I would not call it milling any more. It is rubbing, causing a lot of heat in the workpiece and the tool. Both not ideal at all. If you have to go at such low cutting depth then there is no point of building such a machine. The materials used in this machine, given proper assembly, should be able of milling through aluminium with 10mm depth of cut and a width of 1-1.5mm. If you have to go so slow and shallow to eliminate vibrations the machine is pointless.

[@michaelwoodcock9357]

Makes no difference if the spindle is a spaghetti noodle. Besides, sand only adds mass, not rigidity so it's kindof a second rate option in comparison to high performance concrete

[@ChristopherGoggans]

Epoxy Granite is the correct answer. It has amazing properties of damping and stiffness. It's truly amazing material and let's you do some truly impressive stuff that is impossible otherwise.

[@martin2250]

The amount of work you put into each video is incredible! Most other youtubers would have turned this project into a 5+ part series. I really like this compact format!

[@cda32]

Other youtubers just do 5 hour live streams with zero editing now, it's so sad.

[@NineSun001]

Depends on what you want. Do you just want to consume a video, this format is good. Do you want to know how to build such a machine yourself with a lot of pitfalls explained on the way? Then go to the 5+ hour series. It just depends on what you want.

[@danielbruin]

S(l)ick! You've been working hard lately! I really want to build one to. Hardware is no problem but the control and electronics always have me postpone project like this. How did you control this one? Plug and play would be great 😉 ghe ghe. Keep up the good work!

[@ivanmirandawastaken]

If you want something in the "milling steel with ease" range and something friendly I'd go for a Duet3, in this setup there are only the connections of the three motors to the controller. Cheers Daniel!!

[@asicdathens]

Electronics, especially g-code boards, stepper controllers and stepper motors etc is the easy part. (At least for me)

[@Lucas_sGarage]

@@ivanmirandawastaken the plans for this machine, where i can find it?

[@Lucas_sGarage]

@Van Life no, i'm intrested in the dimensions of the steel frame, parts list And so on

[@excitedbox5705]

When using a vice, the area being milled needs to be between the vice surfaces. The overhang flexes and throws off your accuracy. Your frame needs much more bracing under your table as well. The tool pushes down on the x and y axis and there is no support underneath. Even 2 uprights directly under the center of the base will reduce flex by a ton. Ideally, you would make a box around the frame and fill it with a mixture of granite and epoxy. It will give you the strength of a professional machine this way.

[@DJ-wl5yi]

He also needs Motor mounts and spindle nut mounts of metal. It can only be as stiff as it's weakest link. And these ultimately have to bear all the loads

[@boostaddict_]

I find that minor overhang is fine. Source: I can mill parts within 0.0005" completely manually with perfect perpendicularity.

[@stephengrattage5219]

I’ve noticed there have been no spacers in the last few videos.

[@DarronBlack]

Well, he should have yelled "spacers!" when he used those square tube bits to space parts for welding.

[@anglerfish61]

F

[@Claunnx]

THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE: CNC 3+2 Axis. You would be the king of youtube.

[@andresabana4701]

thats true

[@blahorgaslisk7763]

It would be interesting to see a shoot out between this and the previous mill you built just to show what you gain from making one this way. Mill that test piece on both mills in both aluminum and steel. Take notes about total machining time for each and compare the quality. Someone suggested you machine the bearing mounting for the ball screws in aluminum to replace the 3D printed PLA parts and make them more rigid. If you do something like this then it would be interesting to see a before and after test to show if it made any noticeable difference in the surface quality. Everyone keeps saying rigidity, rigidity, rigidity, but it would be interesting to see if it makes a huge difference or if it's subtle. The PLA parts are pretty substantial and the material dampens vibrations pretty well. So it would be interesting to see just how much difference there is.

[@markhedquist9597]

Fantastic! Someone below commented about having the knowledge of the hardware, but not the electronics. That's where I fall in this type of build too. But, someday...someday. Your enthusiasm is infectious! I love watching your videos! Great work!

[@MrTWOproductions]

The frame is going to warp over time due to stress in all those welds. Also, the heat of the steppers is going to tranfer into the 3D printed plastic parts. Both not a good idea if you ask me.

[@exol511]

Agreed. Not to mention the MGN rails/blocks are not made for the forces which show up in a router/mill and the seals on em are also not going to stop dirt from getting into them, which will drastically reduce the lifetime. The spindle VFD is also not correctly configured if the spindle can be stalled without faulting it out, which is dangerous as there is a chance it burns up.

[@andypappy945]

I agree about the plastic, I'd either cast or machine out of brass or bronze

[@shaunparsons9610]

Your completely wrong about the frame, but correct about the 3d printed parts.

[@pioneer1943]

At this point my guy can straight up make a factory lol

[@andycrask3531]

Why's he 'your' guy?

[@theninjascientist689]

@@andycrask3531 it's his turn with Ivan, wait yours

[@pioneer1943]

@@theninjascientist689 damn right it is lol

[@anglerfish61]

@@pioneer1943 xD

[@DracolegacyOfficial]

every now and then your videos pop up in my recommended feed and i cant help but watch. gotta say, i absolutely love your jump cuts when using a center punch. entertainment wise, thats my favorite part of your videos.

[@dtvtechrp]

Holy crap Ivan ! I love it when people step out of their comfort zone....great job buddy!

[@ivanmirandawastaken]

I dove unto unknown territory on this one for sure. Thanks!!

[@KieranHolroyd]

this is how the grey goo machines start, just a man making machines to make more machines

[@nou4898]

i am evolved from green goo

[@felixromano3091]

Very nice I think you should paint it and maybe but it in a box with a window for safety

[@Reman1975]

I'd box in as much of the open structure as you can with 4 or 5mm sheet steel. It would make the frame a lot more rigid, even if they were only attached with bolts into the frame (Rather than welded in). It would help get rid of some of the tool chatter marks in the work.

[@aj7utu]

Bolts are way better than welding. You want rubbing action under vibration. It’s a very big job to do this as you want intimate contact with no bending.

[@alexscarbro796]

I spy a Thin Sheet Rivet Nut tool getting some good use!!! They’re great and do a really tidy job! You can also get rivet nuts that are countersunk, which is useful! Great build!

[@aj7utu]

Here, they are a disaster. Completely out of place. I cringed when he was using this.

[@BrianMeeks]

That video was mesmerizing to watch. You're a remarkable talent. 5-Stars!

[@quelixfenzer5108]

I really like your videos and have been experimenting with diy cnc routers during this pandemic a bit. I recommend using single or dual flute cutters on these high rpm spindles becaust it enables you to take slower deeper passes (good for the steppers) on high rpm (where these spindle motors have good torque) and still take a decent chip per tooth wich is important to reduce friction and extend tool life and have cleaner cuts. Also I recommend to fix the machine to something heavy or even cast a concrete block around the steel frame to dampen vibrations because steel alone is not good at that. Other than that great machine! Keep going and greetings from Germany!

[@FunDumb]

Let's putt some back pack straps on that bad boy, and hook it up with a car battery and see if you can get it running somewhere in the back woods!

[@SuperKlayBoy]

Awsome design. Might I suggest coolant or pressurized air for the milling surface. This will help with removing chips and grind before they can stick to the surface of the object beging milled.

[@someguy2741]

I accidently on purpose bought some giant pillow blocks... like 1.5 inch diameter (linear bearing on a round rail) and GIANT steppers. They are made for a CNC and are industrial american made. I was looking for larger parts for a larger 3d printer (around 600 cubed) but these are massive. I need to make a CNC machine now. The cool thing is that the 1.5 inch rails are available on ebay used (and slightly out of spec i would assume) for under a hundred bucks a pair x 600 long. There should be no question that the motors can do the job. I do need to supply 100v to them. The actual spindle is the only thing... as soon as I can figure the spindle and the motor control on the cheap it should be good.

[@erx88]

When running the G-code in Mach 3: you can reduce the speed at which the code runs by pressing the negative or positive buttons on the feed rate window, this will help you account for the density of any material ( the harder the material the slower you go, it helps to have quality bits for each material being used, and this also increases precision of the final product. ) You can further adjust the speed of travel of the cutter by properly calibrating your motors to your exact mechanics, look up how to calculate for different sprocket circumference sizes and adjust the steps per inch ( how many steps or single movements does it take the motor with mechanics attached to rotate 1 full inch on the machine ( the very center of the cutting bit ), start around 2000 and then adjust the exact number based on your individual mechanics accordingly) Adjust the acceleration and velocity of each axis, what you want to do is create a perfect triangle, or as close to it as possible, it can be at various speeds (sizes of triangles going up to a certain limit), that setting seems to work well in stabilizing the systems movements. Great job, very well done. -ER x

[@MisterMakerNL]

Welding isn't hard, preparation for good welding are! Looks nice awesome job!

[@RSST662]

When I saw that chunk of 6082 , I knew exactly what I wanted to do with my life . Thanks .

[@jdcamc]

Not to take away from your design and build abilities, but I'm just as impressed with your video editing skills, too! Great job, mi amigo!

[@shakejones]

brilliant! Thank you SO MUCH for sharing your knowledge! well done mate 🙏🏻

[@AndrewAHayes]

I have learned the hard way not to eyeball mitres when welding, I use magnetic angles every time now, one mitre slightly out can affect the rest of the build and making a whole lot of correctional work for you, is that why you cut loads of welds?

[@ivanmirandawastaken]

Honestly I would love for a magnetic angle to be strong enough to withstand the pull of a cooling weld but any welder would tell you to clamp it (which I did).

[@DanteYewToob]

@@ivanmirandawastaken a welder friend of mine literally just cuts temporary gusset plates and tacks them first to act as a clamp and angle guide. It works great and you can reuse the sheet metal a bunch of times by just grinding the tack tabs off. Taking the time to make a few gusset guides can save a bunch of time and keep everything perfectly aligned while you work and you don’t have to worry about clamps slipping out of allignment or bumping anything. Obviously super thin sheet metal might bend during welding, but there is a sweet spot of thin enough to easshape as needed and thick enough to be a strong guide. Hope this helps.

[@cambridgemart2075]

@@ivanmirandawastaken There are clamps spefically designed to hold the parts whilst welding, the clamp the 2 parts seperately and one of the clamps can be rotated over the base to set the correct angle.

[@EngineeringSpareTime]

That’s an upgrade - nice! I built a small CNC mill before with mineral casting base - you might enjoy watching it :)

[@NorthernLightSouth]

Whow great! I'm dreaming to have a CNC mill for soo long but can't afforn to buy one. Maybe sometime I can build a similar one. Thanks very much for this build video which inspired me.

[@simonderoo9189]

There's something about your video's that make me want to go and MAKE SOMETHING!

[@BRPEngineering]

Your machining skills are still better than over 99.9% of the population!

[@ErtsenPlayGames]

TIG Welding tips for u Always grind the tungsten with fresh clean disc Set postflow longer than u need so tungsten wont change color after stop to gray Clean the parts with acetone Dont rush... Set amps low and let the steel heat up then start welding so u dont get to high amps when part already heat up

[@N.Cognito]

I would get some covers for the linear rails, it wouldn't take much to get them messed up with chips.

[@W4TRI_Ronny]

Just bought a 2.2Kw water cooled spindle and I think the same controller. I don't weld so it is another design. The Root 4 CNC from the UK.

[@RobertDaveMyrland]

Fill the frame of the machine with cement or resin mixed with small stones. This will take out/damper high pitch/high frequency vibration and create nicer surface finish.

[@cnc-logic]

"Кабинета" не хватает, чтобы был как обрабатывающий центр. А вообще идея и исполение супер! С уважением из России!

[@everlastingmedia]

Stellar fab job. TO help with getting those screws through the square tubes to the other side easier, I've started using magnetic tape (just strong enough to hold the screw in) wrapped around a straw. Just push the straw against the screw hole/port and bing bang boom no more drops.

[@jle5425]

Hi Ivan. Thanks for reading my comment

[@ivanmirandawastaken]

My pleasure

[@Skibszilla]

Stop using a marker and use a scribe and some marking blue. Huge difference as far as persession goes. Also grab some larger callipers. Maybe even a an optical center punch if you would like. Once you discover precision, you don't want to come back.

[@travismiller5548]

Marking blue is miserable to clean up tho.

[@PoignantPirate]

I must say, it is a testament to your skill as a maker that this works as well as it does... This is incredible. Also, aluminium is *evil*... It doesn't matter how big or rigid the machine is, the aluminum is going to try to grab your bits and make the machine complain... Steel would actually be easier to machine with this setup.

[@bbbarham6264]

You’ve gotta replace those 3D printed ball screw housings with machined/metal ones!! Everything is steel except the part that transitions all of the load.

[@tonywardle-winship5744]

So inspiring. I've just progressed from using a small 3018 CNC to my own build C Beam CNC. I've never welded but I want to try now

[@bjrn-oskarrnning2740]

Want a crane? Build a crane! You can buy a winch, electrical or hand crank, other than that you just need some pulleys, a couple of wheels and your welding skills are definitely good enough to make the frame! I guess steel is expensive right now, but other than that, nothing is stopping you! :D Great video as usual, and good work! Thanks for sharing!

[@dibrockly]

Fill the tubes with foam, concrete, or epoxy. This will stiffen it up way more making it better for machining. It will make it quite too. Mass means more stable for milling

[@DarronBlack]

PLEASE use this machine to cut replacements for the 3D printed motion mounting components that WILL affect the overall accuracy. It's a lot of work to leave just a few weak links like that.

[@luislopez995]

Abusador….!!!!!!!! This is a masterpiece Boss….. Hi from Puerto Rico 🇵🇷✌🏼

[@benwybrow1197]

if you have any issues with vibrations you could try filling the inside of the box tubing with concrete or resin.

[@antoninperbosc1532]

linear guide must be fix on a rectangular cold steel. cold steel is easy to scratch in order that the 2 linears guides be coplanars. One linear guide is set fix this is a reference for the second so the second is adjustable lock in a U shape part and a screew on the side to get the 2 guides parallel each other.

[@msh4805]

Ivan Good job , After you machine replacement mounts for the steppers. Fill the frame tubes with resin concrete, or sand to dampen vibrations and make it quieter also given the size/rigidity of this machine i would use smaller end-mills at faster rpm and slow down cutting speed.

[@rileyfenley522]

I would look into getting some thinner gloves for tig welding, they give you much better dexterity. Tig gloves are usually made of goatskin because of how thin it is. What you have is more of a stick/mig welding glove, very thick and you cant make as precise movement along with fatiguing your hands quicker. They are probably 3-5x thicker than Tig gloves and you make you give up alot of dexterity needed for Tig.

[@jdmorgan82]

Ok, so this is super cool. Just a few things that will make it better. 1. Drill a couple holes at the top and fill the frame with sand. This will reduce vibrations. Also get an engine hoist if you ever plan on moving it. 2. The spindle you are using is way too fast for what you want to do. I suggest getting a 1100 rpm motor 1.5-2.2kw and use a belt driven spindle. This will put your RPM range more in line with cutting metal vs using a something designed for wood or other soft materials. You are looking to have an rpm range from ~1000-8000 ideally. Your spindle has no power in that range. There is more than one way to do this. Alternatively you can get a much more expensive low rpm spindle. 3. Get a speeds and feeds calculator. It will give you the optimal feed rate and rpm for whatever material you are using. G-wizard would be a great place to start. There are others that other people may be able to recommend. Also check with the manufacturer for optimal chip load. All in all great job Ivan.

[@nukularpictures]

There are carbide tools to run at those speeds. I personally use DLC coated bits for aluminium, can run up to 550m/min, and TiAlN for steel. They are still happy with about 300m/min. At that speed you can still use 24k RPM spindles quite decently even at up to 10mm bits for aluminium or 6mm for steel. With 2 flutes the feed rates are also not that extreme (around 1000-2000mm/min) so the machine should be able to handle that. But of course they are much more expensive than just tool steel bits.

[@jdmorgan82]

This is true… but with higher speeds comes higher feeds and I’m not sure if the machine will be up to it. It’s certainly worth a try at least once though.

[@nukularpictures]

@@jdmorgan82 Hoffmann-Group has two flute cutters for steel. For example in the GARANT Master Steel series. For the 6mm cutter you just need 1000mm/min of feed rate with 260m/m cutting speed. Officially just with flood coolant but it works just with air as well. If the machine cant handle that speed then there is something wrong with 5mm pitch ballscrews. The 3 flute ones are even rated for just air cooling. Like the Garant VHM-Fräser MTC series. That is rated at 1800mm/min cutting speed (again 6mm diameter). Of course they are not the cheapest endmills you can find but personally I find 40-50€ acceptable. I love them and the GARANT Master Alu on my router.

[@VeauX1902]

Now you can mill steel replacement for the plastics motor supports for rigidity and precision!

[@devlynallin3389]

This guy is top notch, ionno how hes only got 261k subs, should have millions by now

[@verkauf9310]

Love it 👍 Watching from South Africa

[@mariocastilloist]

My advice to a better tool path is to use the entire flute of the endmill not just the tip, this can improve your tool life and your surface finish

[@makingthings277]

You had me at your knolling and organization.

[@marcodhaene]

What happened to the "Hello everyone!". Missed that. Felt like coming home, hearing that at the beginning of each video 😊 Amazing project and I have no doubt your machining skills will improve massively. Keep it up!

[@Toxicity1987]

Now replace the 3D Printed parts with CNCed ones. Also those poor stepper drives of that Duet 3 board.

[@samclarke1495]

If you want your welds straight get or make a multi angle corner clamp. Also do only one corner at a time.

[@arun.recycling]

This is really a good work. If you can add more stiffeners to the frame it will be more durable.

[@jeffkrupke3810]

Thanks so much for covering this as I have started a build a CNC from the ground up.

[@carbide1968]

You have probably heard someone recommend a mist sprayer for milling before right? Kool mist is a leader and they have a non toxic concentrate also, you gotta be careful what you spray in the air and always have a exhaust fan which you should have anyways for that cool shop.

[@AdjustinThings]

omg you weld too! Good job sticking it to the haters of the last mill.

[@AdjustinThings]

I think i'm going to sell my mini mill now!

[@cjdubble]

Production quality is next level! Great editing!

[@tdg911]

Video editing skills are just as good as your fabrication skills. Well done.

[@Eden_Maker]

Absolutely insane. Inspirational.

[@codykilkenny7574]

Machine looks amazing!! My husband and I really liked you’re video. We’re thinking about doing something similar

[@jonponton]

You said it Ivan… it’s a BEAST!! Nice job dude!

[@Rouverius]

Wait... how did I miss this? Oh, there's a Part 2 already? My day just turned amazing. 😁

[@DavidBauer38]

Is it just me or does Ivan’s video production skills keep getting better and better?!?!?! Yet another skill mastered by this talented man!

[@garagemonkeysan]

Whoa, what a huge project. Glad to see you get into different materials. Mill is so cool. Mahalo for sharing!

[@KernsJW]

Nice job on the video and the build. Definitely look at moving the y motor to the front, put a skin on the machine, and fill with casting cement/epoxy. Make sure to add in a means to bolt it down to help add additional weight too as you may find you want more later. You could also modify your y setup some to add a catch basin in the cement with a drain, so you can make a liquid cooling setup. The Z extension can be tied to the rest of the body with the epoxy cement core and help move the vibration to a much higher frequency to help reduce chatter at lower speeds. Adding a bolted on solid base with a vibration absorbing material will help further, but will also likely bounce the vibrations back to the top of the Z, so if you go that far, you will have to do some tests to find where the sweet spot is. There are some nice accelerometer testers you can get these days to test for vibrations at cheap diy prices due to the Voron push in 3d printing.

[@Masso1973]

I love this guy, seriously talented and always happy. Wish we could do some project together, you seem like a great guy to work with

[@mattle3]

Dream project!

[@AJ_Halvajian]

Steppin-it-up; Won't hear any hate here!! That's awesome

[@axelSixtySix]

Ivan, by introducing 3D printed transmission parts, you introduced some issues. Please change your ball screw nut blocks by stiff metal ones as soon as possible ;) I would have introduce adjustments screws on each axis because setup of the machine is a nightmare without them. Good luck for the following :)

[@GermanTopGameTV]

The first thing I'd machine from steel on this are all 3D printed parts in the X and Y Axis. It pays dividends to have absolutely no slack there. A good design can be precise here, even if X and Y are not too accurate at the moment.

[@jesseb5378]

Awesome machine! Learning the speed/feed/tooling etc is the easy part now!

[@tinayoga8844]

Maybe you have done it already, you should tie the column to the back brace in the center. It would add to the stiffness. That should reduce some flexing and the resulting chatter. Very nice project.

[@Borgedesigns]

Love it! Do you think that its smaller, more rigid design gives it an edge over some of your larger MPCNC's?

[@ivanmirandawastaken]

This one is wayyy more rigid than the other ones and the motors are way more powerful so yes, this is more capable in the small volume range.

[@grantballard4362]

@@ivanmirandawastaken looked like nema34 open loops?

[@maharbatc]

@@ivanmirandawastaken I don't wanna imagine how weak were the previous machines, measure this and previous to see how better or useful is this, in order to see if this is gonna be a project to work on or just a nice video

[@artemcultura6191]

Our savior has returned yet again. From scratch the earth he has built.

[@b3nny90]

Absolutely love your work Ivan, been a fan of yours since your first 3d printer. I've followed several of your instructions to build my own systems and have been quite successful to date. Keep up the awesome effort mate.

[@ruben7107]

Relaxing cup of café con leche, in plaza mayor? Gran vídeo crack

[@lonelymtbrider3369]

Gotta love the editing!

[@christinewhybrow8813]

Holy crap, I was thinking of getting a 3018 Pro CNC. Now I'm suffering size jealousy!! I'm guessing this probably won't move around much whilst doing its thing!

[@peacekeeper7968]

Esto ya es otra cosa, la otra era un juguete! Gran trabajo

[@tripalong]

Can't wait to watch that thing rust. Should have hit it with some good Rust preventative primer after grinding down the welds.

[@paco3447]

Just a yellow or red paint on the frame and perfect. Well, and maybe some further upgrades: a pneumatic collet ATC and a replacement of 3d printed parts with machined aluminium ones.

[@nukularpictures]

No first fill it with sand. Then add another bearing block to all of the screws. Then disassemble it completely and make sure it is all aligned and square. Then add way covers for the screws and the rails. Then install the electronics into a EMI proof extra case, since VFDs are often nightmares. After all that is done, then you can start thinking about upgrading the spindle for an ATC one. That is the very last step. But I do not see any problems with the 3d prints here. Ok the spindle nut holder is a bit iffy but I do not see it as really affecting the machine. The holders for the steppers are fine (as long as the steppers are not too hot) since they do not take any load. The fixed bearing block does align the ball screws.

[@paco3447]

@@nukularpictures Well, the ATC suggestion was just a bit of a kidding. I missed an smiley. The frame's paint is what I would like to see how it looks. Anyway, placing an ATC spindle obviously implies to stiffen the assembly (with epoxy granite or similar), a relay pneumatic valve actuator, etc. course

[@Chaos_God_of_Fate]

Very nice work! I look forward to building a CO2 Laser later this year, which should be a bit easier but the concepts are the same.

[@german26able]

Estás loco Ivan, la madre de todas la CNC homemade, ya veremos como mejoras tu conocimiento usándola, un trabajo extraordinario excelente, felicitaciones.

[@cxxaner]

You can pour epoxy granit into the squares profiles. İt makes both more stable and more resist to dust.

[@CDRaff]

Watching you go from projects made of almost all 3D printed parts to this has been so fun.

[@Bitfrogess]

You might consider adding concrete or sand inside the steel tubes. It adds weight, but more importantly rigidity to the whole structure and helps with resonance/chatter. But a fantastic build nonetheless! :D