Canon Speedlite 199A External Flash Review And Overview

[@BoeingSkunkWorks]

Just purchased a 199A for my third A-1. I'll be keeping this one. This will be the first dedicated flash I've had for the A-1. Great overview of this flash. Probably much easier to understand your video than reading the manual.

[@PhilUKNet]

Thanks! I was out with the A1 yesterday, but I haven't used the 199A in a while. It's fairly basic, but unfortunately there is no TTL metering. The 300TL for the T90 is a lot more advanced, but it's a lot more difficult to use.

[@Jonstinn]

Thank you for these videos for the 199a flash and a-1 camera! I just picked up both with a bunch of accessories from the original owner not knowing a single thing about photography other than Polaroids, (I have quite a large collection from the first land camera up to the new stuff). The info from your channel has helped me take some great pictures so far and opened up the world of 35mm film for me. Thanks!

[@PhilUKNet]

@Jonstinn Pleasure! Thanks for letting me know, and happy shooting!

[@marip4435]

Thank you so much for the video, finally understood how to use this set up of camera and flash!

[@PhilUKNet]

Pleasure! This one's not too bad. The dedicated flash for the T90 (the 300TL) is trickier! The 199A technology is pre-TTL, so it's not as clever as later flash technology, but you can get some decent results. Happy shooting!

[@francescogarbin]

This little beauty also supports some form of automation with the Canon New F-1. With the Power Winder FN installed, the New F-1 works basically like an A-1: shutter is automatically set at sync speed and f/stop is set by the flash to the matching aperture set in the red/green/yellow switch, given that the lens is set to A. Brilliant design for the times.

[@PhilUKNet]

@francescogarbin Thanks. I have no experience of the F1. Yes, very advanced for its era!

[@NextScamdemic]

I used this flash off-camera and an umbrella to get cinematic looking self-portraits for my social media. My photos don't look like anyone else's and the results can be magical when everything comes together. Way more interesting and flattering to my appearance than what I can get with digital.

[@PhilUKNet]

Thanks for your comments and thanks for subscribing! I'd like to be a lot more active on my channel, but life keeps getting in the way 🙁 There are endless creative ways to take photographs and it's fun to experiment. I'm surprised that my old film gear is working, but it's still going strong and a lot of people still like to shoot with film. I will try to get some more videos out soon.

[@zak9315]

How do you use it off camera?

[@NextScamdemic]

@@zak9315 just mount on a stand and connect using a Canon sync cord, or multiple cords. Only challenge is when using modifiers since they cover up the thyristor sensor, so you can't use the auto-exposure system, you have to use manual mode (or use the auto-system but have a bare flash)

[@fernandoguerrero5333]

Thanks for a nice review of the 300TL flash unit. I recently got a near mint Canon T90 and 300TL. I also have a Canon A-1 and 199A I purchased 36 years ago and recently started to take up using film again. I'm enjoying the T90 very much. It's quite the upgrade to the A-1. Your guide was very helpful.

[@PhilUKNet]

Hi Fernando. I received my A1 and 199A as gifts 39 years ago! I went to South Africa in 2000 and bought a used T90 and 300TL as backups. Once I started using the T90 I never used the A1 again! It's a huge upgrade compared to the A1, as is the 300TL compared to the 199A. Thanks for your comment!

[@NextScamdemic]

Best review of this unit. Thank you!

[@PhilUKNet]

Many thanks! Sorry for the delay replying, but I wasn't notified of this message. A new KZbin feature lets me look at messages I haven't replied to and there are lots.

[@777juliee]

Thank you for this video. I still have some more questions I’m having trouble understanding. I have the canon a-1 and this flash if I want to use my camera on automatic with the auto flash do I have to set it to where it’s 1/60? Or can I keep my lenses like normal on “A” and my mode with the “P”? Or would it have to be lenses on “A” and mode to 1/60? Also the letter that shows with the A for auto and M for manual on the switch on the flash, is the letter that I see is that the setting it’s on? Or do I have to move it to that “m” or “a” and be on the letter to be on that setting? Hopefully that makes sense. Idk why I’m having trouble understanding haha.

[@PhilUKNet]

The lens aperture is set using the aperture selector (red/green/yellow) on the 199A. The actual aperture will depend on your ISO speed. Just look at the dial to see what aperture you will get for red, green or yellow for different ISO values. In order for the camera to communicate with the lens and set the aperture, the aperture ring on the lens must be set to A. If not, you will see an M in the viewfinder indicating that you are in manual exposure mode. Put the camera in Tv mode. When you switch on the flash and the red pilot light comes on, the camera automatically switches to the flash circuit. It doesn't matter where you set the dial on the camera. Regardless of whether you select a specific shutter speed or use P on the dial, the camera will override your setting and select a shutter speed of 1/60s. This 1/60s shutter speed is selected when you select Auto on the front of the flash. This is the fastest sync speed. If you select Manu on the front of the flash, you can select a slower shutter speed of 1/60s to 30s. However, this is for more advanced flash photography and , just for ease of use, I would suggest leaving it on Auto. So, now the camera has selected a 1/60s shutter speed and the aperture is determined by the ISO and red/green/yellow setting on the flash. This camera/flash combination predates Through The lens (TTL) metering. When you take the shot and the flash fires, a sensor on the front of the flash measures the amount of light and regulates how much light the flash outputs. This should give you a correct exposure. It can sound a bit complex. If this isn't clear, or if you have further questions, please ask!

[@javiersanzgarcia5548]

Hi Phil, thanks for this wonderful video. I have a Canon New F1 and the flash speedlight 199A. I would like to take a picture with off-camera flash using a sync cable cord that is long enough to be able to take it away from my camera with the arm fully extended. Do you have any recommendations you can give me? Thank you very much.

[@PhilUKNet]

Thank you for the kind words! I have done some off camera wireless flash with EOS, but back in my film days I always used flash on the hotshoe. However, the 199A does have a sync socket to allow for off camera operation. You will need to get a sync cord. I just saw a Canon Synchro Cord A on eBay. eBay is probably the best place to get hold of vintage film gear, unless there is a camera shop near you that sells old gear. Just connect the camera and flash with the sync cord and then get a suitable bracket to mount the flash off camera. Good luck!

[@Nikos_Tsubame]

thank you so much

[@PhilUKNet]

@@Nikos_Tsubame Pleasure!

[@Nikos_Tsubame]

@@PhilUKNet I've just bought one in really condition today :)

[@PhilUKNet]

@@Nikos_Tsubame Nice! My one is over 40 years old, but still in excellent condition. It's a real testament to Canon's design and manufacturing quality. Enjoy your new accessory!

[@Nikos_Tsubame]

​​​@@PhilUKNet thank you, wow 40years, you're taking good care of your things :) I've just removed the battery acid and corrosion. Now it looks like i just bought it a week ago brand new. I see that you call the diffuser a Adapter for less then 35mm lenses. Is that the sole purpose for it? Or can it also be used as a simple diffurser to get more even lightning?! If yes, by how many stops does one compensate?

[@Nikos_Tsubame]

@@PhilUKNet wow looks like youre taking good care of your things, just removed the battery acid and corrosion, now it's as good as new, the adapter you talked about, can it also be used as a diffuser for let's say 50mm lenses to get a even lighting? If yes do you compensate by 1 stop? or do i have a complete misunderstanding about what it's actually there for.

[@nik2957]

Where you insert the 4 AA batteries.... I'm missing the plastic piece you used to hold the batteries. The vertical thing. I have the cover. Is that needed?

[@PhilUKNet]

It is required. Not only does it hold the batteries in position, but there's a metal plate on the bottom that provides an electrical connection between the batteries.

[@nik2957]

@@PhilUKNet Damn. I guess I'll try to find that piece online somewhere. Appreciate you and your video though, brother. Take care.

[@PhilUKNet]

@@nik2957 Good luck! I think it's unlikely you'll find the part, but maybe you can find a broken flash unit that has what you need.

[@asadavis9532]

I really appreciate this

[@PhilUKNet]

Appreciate your comment, too. Thank you 🙏

[@shaelynstout6093]

Hi Phil - wonderful video! I've dug out my mother's 199A and was really struggling until I came across your channel. Do you know if the automatic shutter speed setting works on the AE-1 Program? Also - do you have any quick tips for a flash newbie on choosing the right auto aperature colour setting (red, green or yellow)? I find it a bit overwhelming when I'm out shooting and have to choose. Especially when it's dark! Thanks in advance - really helpful stuff.😊

[@PhilUKNet]

Thank you! I don't have an AE-1 Program, but it is is very similar to the A1 and I think it should work fine. When connected to the flash, the camera should select a shutter speed of 1/60s and an aperture according to the aperture selector switch on the back of the flash. I don't have any quick tips, but this is what the manual says: Yellow when a deep depth of field is desired. Green when the distance to the subject is 1 meter or longer. Red when a shallow depth of field is required, or the subject is more than 5 meters away, or when performing bounce flash. I can't remember if I mentioned it in the video, but you can illuminate the dial in dark conditions by pressing the 'Light' button on the bottom left on the back of the flash. Happy shooting!

[@boostbible]

Great video, will this flash work with the Canon AE1 Program?

[@PhilUKNet]

Thanks! The 199A was released before the AE-1 Program, so the user manual doesn't mention the AE-1 Program. It just says that the 199A was designed for the A1, AE-1 and AV-1. However, because of the closeness between these bodies and the AE-1 Program, there shouldn't be any problems at all. I'm 100% sure it will work perfectly.

[@boostbible]

Ok awesome, thank you so much for the fast informative reply!@@PhilUKNet

[@ocmato5]

Hi Phil, thanks for the instruction video. I have an A1 and 199A flash. Flash works in that it powers up and flashes when pressing the test button, but not when used on the camera. When connected I do get the F on viewfinder and all seems ready, but I take a photo without the flash going off. Camera setting on P - Am I missing something? Thanks for your help.

[@PhilUKNet]

Hi Keith, thanks for your comment. This is strange. If the test button works it indicates that the flash is working, and if you see an F in the viewfinder it indicates that there is communication between the camera and flash. I have just replicated your set up in P mode. In the viewfinder I see an F, the shutter speed goes to 1/60s and the aperture follows the setting on the flash - depending whether I select the yellow, green or red position. When I take a shot the flash fires. I don't know why yours isn't working. Both the A1 and the 199A have sockets for a sync cord and it would be interesting to know what happens when using such a cord. If it works then there may be a problem with your hotshoe connection. The official Canon cord is the Synchro Cord A, which sometimes appears on eBay or perhaps you can find a non-official one. I just did a search and there are lots of sync cords available, but with most the plugs won't fit. For the flash you need a plug with two pins - one flat and one round. Unfortunately, because these cameras are now so old it is difficult to find technicians who can diagnose and repair faults so we have to try to fix things ourselves. When I contacted Canon about getting a battery for my A1 it was obviously that the company is no longer interested in maintaining its old equipment. Make sure that the flash is pushed into the hotshoe as far as it will go and that you lock it. Also make sure that the connections are clean and free of any dirt or corrosion. Good luck!

[@fernandoguerrero5333]

Hi Keith, I too have a Canon A-1 and 199A speed lite unit. I too, wasn't getting my flash to go off when mounted on my camera. Turns out I didn't push the flash unit completely on the hot shoe of the camera before pushing the flash knob to lock into place. Hope this helps!

[@juiceboyxd9310]

What if you're using an adapted lens on the A1 body with no auto aperture setting? What should you set the flash to?

[@PhilUKNet]

But you can set the aperture manually? You could calculate it. The 199A guide number is 30m at 100 ASA so, for example, if your subject is 6m away the calculation is 30/6 = f/5. Alternatively, you could use a light meter, fire a test flash and get the aperture reading that way. This is where film photography gets tricky. With digital you just look at the image, adjust settings as necessary, and try again. With film you don't know how your photos will turn out until you get them back from the lab.

[@juiceboyxd9310]

@@PhilUKNet That’s great, thank you.

[@PhilUKNet]

@@juiceboyxd9310 Pleasure!

[@bardslorenzhernandez71]

Question, will it work of canon rebel series?

[@PhilUKNet]

The short answer is that I don't know. If it triggers via one pin on the hotshoe and uses the correct voltage, it may work. On the other hand, it may do damage to the camera or flash. I really don't know. The Rebel series was EOS, which is a system, and anything within the system is compatible. Back in the manual focus film camera days, cameras had their own dedicated flashes. The 199A was the dedicated flash for the A1. Sorry that I can't answer your question, but you should be able to find an answer somewhere on the Internet. I only ever stuck with the dedicated flashes and I have never attempted to mix and match cameras and flashes.

[@flannelcommander]

The aperture in my viewfinder reads f/32 regardless of “A” mode or in manual. Time to do some trial and error

[@PhilUKNet]

Is it the same with every lens?

[@flannelcommander]

@@PhilUKNet I only have one lens at the moment. But if it take the lens off of “A” mode, it still reads f/32

[@dflf]

I just bought a mint 199a complete with the original packaging, pouch, wide adaptor and instruction manual all for $30

[@PhilUKNet]

That's a great price for one in that kind of condition. It obviously came from a very fastidious first owner!

[@tjayoub]

I just purchased one and it came with the original manufacturer warranty card signed and dated off from 1985!

[@rayedsharif1764]

Will all the functions work on the Canon AE-1? I am specifically wondering about whether or not i should put the aperture ring on automatic on the lens or will i have to do it manually?

[@PhilUKNet]

I'm not 100% sure, but I think everything will work. With modern cameras, I often shoot in Manual mode. I set exposure for the background and let ETTL handle exposure for the subject. There's no TTL with the 199A, just a primitive feedback loop using a sensor on the flash. If you shoot manually, just remember the maximum sync speed is only 1/60s.

[@cdegenova1761]

Hi I just bought this same flash for the canon a1 and I was hoping you could help. I’m not sure if I need to buy a new one. Everything seems to work except for the light sensor on the flash. No matter what or how dark it is f32 will always be blinking on my viewfinder at 60 shutter speed. Even if I cover the light sensor with my finger. Does this mean the sensor isn’t working and wouldn’t expose for flash properly ?

[@PhilUKNet]

Not sure at the moment. f/32 is saying there's too much light, but the aperture is already at its smallest setting. With the flash mounted and turned on, can you see an 'F' in the viewfinder LCD? Is the film speed dial on the flash set to the correct ASA? Have you tried moving the aperture switch to red, yellow and green? There is no TTL with this set up. The light reflected from the subject is measured by the sensor on the flash, which controls the light output. It's very primitive compared to modern cameras. Can you check the things I have mentioned first?

[@derekr7814]

My speedlite 199a won't show different apertures in the viewfinder on my A1 when I switch between yellow red or green on the auto switch? The apertures always stay the same at 5.6 when using a 28mm f/2.8 fdn lens? Is my flash broken?

[@PhilUKNet]

I'm not sure. Is the flashed pushed completely into the hotshoe? After you switch the flash on dies the pilot light illuminate red? Do you see an F for flash in the viewfinder LCD? If yes to all these, then the camera does recognise the flash. If that switch isn't changing the aperture value it could mean that the switch is broken. I've just tried mine and it's working fine.

[@AdamRedmond88]

Great video! I just pulled a 199A out of my parent's basement, but unfortunately am not getting any life from it. Any ideas? Looking forward to your 300TL video! The T90 needs more love on KZbin. #t90boyz

[@PhilUKNet]

I had exactly the same problem when I tried to fire up my 199A to make this video. It was dead, even with freshly charged Eneloop batteries. The issue was corrosion on the battery terminals. Visually, it didn't look too bad but there was enough corrosion to prevent any electrical contact. I just rubbed some very fine grade sand paper over the terminals and it came back to life. Before I started using Eneloop batteries I used old style batteries that leak acid if you don't use a device for a long time. A big acid leak will completely destroy the device, but even small leaks will cause problems. After I made this video it didn't get many views so I didn't bother making a video about the 300TL. However, comments such as yours motivate me to do more. Thanks!

[@AdamRedmond88]

@@PhilUKNet Thank you! That's exactly what it was. Works flawlessly after dunking the battery holder in cleaning vinegar for about ten minutes. Man that flash whine is sweet. :)

[@PhilUKNet]

@@AdamRedmond88 Yep, that would work. Anything that attacks and removes the corrosion on the surface. Perhaps my sand paper method was a little harsh? Anyway, very pleased to hear your flash is back in action and thanks for letting me know!

[@bobhamilton298]

What did a 199A cost originally. Just curious.

[@PhilUKNet]

It was so long ago, I can't remember. The A1 back then was, I think, around £320.

[@bobhamilton298]

@@PhilUKNet I bought both the A1 and the 199A brand new back around 1980. Can't remember what I paid for the flash, but the A1 body was well over $400. Still have an assortment of lens including a 500mm. Probably paid close to $2K for all of it. Gave it all to my youngest daughter who showed an interest and will learn more about photography with these classics.

[@PhilUKNet]

@bobhamilton298 I got mine for a 21st birthday present, which would have been 1981. The A1 wasn't a cheap camera, but it was revolutionary back then. I moved to Thailand 21 years ago and left all my film gear in the UK. I've recovered most of it, I haven't been able to locate my FD 500mm f/8 reflex lens. This old gear will be a good way for your daughter to learn the basics.

[@timpescatore7767]

Hey is it possible to shot with a fast aperture like f/1.4-1.8 and not get the picture overexposed? I have the AE-1

[@PhilUKNet]

As your question is on the 199A video, I assume you mean flash exposure? The 199A flash will only select f/1.4 when you use 25 ASA film and select the red setting. I'm not even sure if film this slow is still available. Your fastest shutter speed on the AE-1 when using flash can only be 1/60s because of the sync speed. The flash relies on the camera being able to set the aperture to get the right exposure, therefore the aperture ring on the lens should be on the green A. If you set the aperture manually on the lens you are in complete manual mode and on your own. This is primitive technology compared to today's standards. There is no TTL and no FEC. If you set the aperture manually I guess you could try to reduce the light output by using a diffuser over the flash head. You may also be able to dial in a very high ASA setting on the flash, which doesn't match the actual ASA of the film. If the flash thinks that the film is very sensitive then it should emit less light. The problem with film is that you can try playing around, but you won't actually be able to see the results until the film is developed. This is the beauty of digital. Short answer, if you are using 100 ASA film and using the flash as recommended the camera will set the aperture to f/11, f/5.6 or f/2.8. The only official way to use very wide apertures is to try to get some very slow film, or you could go the manual route and try different methods to reduce the amount of light emitted from the flash.

[@timpescatore7767]

@@PhilUKNet okay thanks man this helped me a lot! I will try to play around with it and maybe also use an ND Filter to see if this helps to not over expose... but thanks for the quick reply!!!

[@PhilUKNet]

@@timpescatore7767 You have to think of flash photography as two separate exposures. The background is illuminated by ambient light, and exposure is controlled by shutter speed and aperture. The subject is illuminated by the flash and exposure is controlled by aperture and the amount of light emitted from the flash. An ND filter will decrease the exposure of both. I was only thinking of the flash exposure being overexposed, not the background exposure. It's so easy these days with digital. TTL measures and controls the amount of light going into the lens from the flash, you have instant feedback, and you can just dial in some EC or FEC to get the desired result. It's kids' play and no light meter is needed. You can see the image straight away and you have a nice histogram. With a Canon AE-1 and 199A you have no TTL, no instant feedback and no FEC. This is why light meters were so important back in the day! No doubt you can do it, but it will require an amount of trial and error. Good luck!

[@MrOmarT-lq9ld]

My 199a won’t turn on 🤦🏽

[@PhilUKNet]

@MrOmarT-lq9ld All I can suggest is the obvious. Whenever I've had this problem, it has always been related to batteries. Try some different batteries and check for corrosion on the battery contacts inside the battery cassette. If you find any, attempt to remove it with some fine grade sand paper. Good luck!

[@MrOmarT-lq9ld]

@@PhilUKNetthank you I’ll switch the new batteries and attempt different ones and clean the brackets

[@PhilUKNet]

@MrOmarT-lq9ld Good luck! If it's not a battery problem, it's going to be difficult to fix yourself or to find someone who can repair the flash. However, if you really need one, there are quite a few on eBay, and they're not expensive.