The Manual Mode Killer!

[@TheosAdventures2018]

It just comes down to what photographers prefer. I prefer manual. I’m in no rush, and I always notice that taking my time results in better photography. I don’t need to rush.

[@nolannatashaTV]

Interesting. I’m definitely an aperture priority shooter, but I have noticed the way things that force me to slow down gets me better photos. Maybe I should force myself to shoot manual every now and then.

[@TheosAdventures2018]

@@nolannatashaTV aperture priority. I respect that. Yes rushing is just irrelevant to the entire concept. Most of us are not shooting an F1 race, so we all have time. I still use the 3 shot HDR, tripod, fully manual method way of shooting. I’m there to capture great photography anyway. It’s not quantity. It may take you all day to get the shot but you will. I’m a landscape shooter so I rely on the best quality I can get.

[@florianstein171]

@@TheosAdventures2018Well, that might be true for landscapes. But if your shooting in the streets you oftentimes need to be quick to get the shot. So there’s no room for fiddling with your camera most of the time.

[@TheosAdventures2018]

@@florianstein171 yes and that’s the great side of it. Everyone has their own way with photography. If I were shooting a wedding day I would probably be in aperture priority. Just bare in mind, with photography and it’s extensive history, the masters had no choice back then. It was manual and manual only. Of course, not the case now.

[@roc7035]

"It just comes down to what photographers prefer." Yes and what kind of photographer you are. I don't think many wildlife photographers, bird photographers or action/sport photographers or anybody who photographs anything that is fast moving would use aperture priority. I don't know how anybody can say that most photographers should use aperture priority.

[@nigelwest3430]

One of the occasions when shutter speed is critical is when photographing propeller driven aircraft, if you shoot with a shutter speed that is too fast you end up with loads of aircraft with static propellers so they look like Airfix kits held against the sky

[@crstudios4457]

Motorsports Photography is another occasion! But it's all dependant on what you are aiming for, and, who you are shooting for (if it's for a career and not a hobby).

[@bondgabebond4907]

That is so funny. Back in the days, 1970s/80s, I attended many air shows at U.S. and overseas Air Force facilities. Once I heard a person bragging about his camera, could be a Pentax Spotmatic, Minoltal or Canon, that he could stop the prop of aircraft because he had a 1,000th of a second shutter speed. I just laughed to myself. What's the point if the props are spinning. You need to show some blurring of the props for effect.

[@edcAdventures.]

I started photography almost a year ago and have been on manual since the beginning. Now i am switching to aperture priority because i mostly do street photography, and it's just much more convenient and faster especially when the scene keeps changing rapidly

[@geminidreame]

If you are shooting street photography, you maybe want to try manual mode with auto ISO. This mode allows you to set aperture and shutter to an appropriate setting for the scene you are shooting. This mode also is helpful when in low light conditions.

[@Broken_Orbital]

get a variable ND filter instead. Set your focal length, shutter speed, and aperture then mark your ND filter when it's properly exposed in the shadows, now make another mark when it's properly exposed out in the light. Now you've got your focus, aperture, shutter speed, min and max exposure all set, you just have to twist your filter from one mark to the other when you're walking in and out of the shadows.

[@lucabuchmuller2158]

what aperture do you set for streetphotography?

[@edcAdventures.]

@lucabuchmuller2158 i tend to use wide like 1.8 or 2.8 if im specifically using a background or foreground on a subject but if i shoot architectural designs i tend to use f9-f14

[@Broken_Orbital]

@@lucabuchmuller2158 I set mine between f4-f5.6, you still get some good background blur but you have longer depth of focus so you don't have to be constantly checking focus. When you're familiar with your lens, you should be able to pretty confidently use zone focusing and then you pretty much only have to adjust your ND filter for exposure. Most people won't even pay attention to your camera now that you're not taking a second or two to mess with it before taking a shot, just *click *click *click and you'll have a few pictures before they even recognize that there's a camera.

[@SamandSteve]

As working wedding photographers we shoot 90% of the time in aperture priority, auto ISO, min shutter speed of 1/250th. With constant changing scenes, light etc we don’t want to be fiddling with settings and miss a moment. The only time we usual manual mode is for dance floor flash work.

[@edwardtye4119]

I like manual mode, as my camera tends to choose a shutter speed too slow for my liking in aperture priority mode (i take most of my photos at f/5.6 or f/8). Manual mode with auto ISO makes the most sense to me, as I miss fewer shots due to bad exposure, but I still have control over the more "creative" exposure tools (the settings that make the biggest visual differences in photos).

[@tophmyster]

You can limit the shutter speed! In the settings, you can set a minimum shutter speed, after which it will raise the iso to compensate. For instance, if you set 1/250, then if it wants to go to 1/125 instead it will stay 1/250 and up the iso a stop

[@bastian.michel]

James, the main reason I tune into your channel is your exceptional sense of humor. Your dry, self-ironic wit always resonates with me. Although my field is quite different from your photography, it's your introspective musings on personal goals and growth that truly captivate me. I hope you continue to embrace these unique qualities that set your channel apart. Im lovin it ❤️

[@mikejankowski6321]

James has a unique talent for waffling on in a captivating way. Just hearing him expound on things is nearly musical. He also has a lot of worthy insights communicated in delightful ways.

[@QKvox]

For me it really depends, if the lighting is challenging to expose for I always shoot manual but in most cases where getting perfect exposure isn’t that much of a deal I shoot in aperture priority. But if the camera I’m using is fun to shoot in with manual (or where thats the only option) I happily will

[@HartenDylan]

I think like many things, the where and when will always dictate the how. If you're someone who has the time/likes the process/wants the absolute guaranteed repeatability of a series of shots, then it's fully understandable to use full manual. However, if you're in fast paced/dynamic lighting/want to prioritize the compositional aspects of your photography, then it makes perfect sense to use a priority mode. As long as the results you're getting satisfy your creative vision, then its never wrong. Like anything though, experimenting with different styles, techniques, and comfort zones is how we grow. As always James, your photos are amazing and inspiring, keep up the great work!

[@grumpyrocker]

When I was a beginner I was obsessed with shooting in manual believing that was the "proper" thing for a photographer. I also got aperture very wrong and would be shooting at an idiotic f/22 on my 400D even indoors to "keep everything in focus". Years later I'm much more relaxed about it all now, so much so I rarely even shoot RAW.

[@sascotttx5145]

My first SLR was a Pentax K1000, so I cut my teeth on manual because I had no choice. 50 years later, I've transitioned through medium format and ended up with a DSLR, full frame, and it pretty much stays on aperture priority during the daytime. I used to teach an evening photography class for one of the school districts here and the hardest thing to do was to get my students to stop using full automatic. I told them that when it comes time to make a creative decision are they comfortable letting the camera make that decision for them? I had one student from Spain that shot some great photos at a bull fight before she enrolled in my class. I could tell it was low light but the color saturation was awesome and she couldn't have been shooting any faster than 1/10 of a second. All the motion was blurred but most of them you could tell it was a bull fight. I asked her what shutter speed she used and she said, "I put it on green." About six months later I was thumbing through the Sunday newspaper and I saw those images again. She was doing a big gallery exhibit. She still didn't have a clue as to how she did those. The major thing I wanted my students to get out of that class was creating strong images by choice, not by chance.

[@harrymacdonald]

I love how under the breath you are talking in the intro as if trying not to disturb the beauty around you

[@tonykeltsflorida]

On my Canon SL2 and my EOS-M, I almost always use AV (aperture priority). When I got my M6 mark II the world changed. I found a mode name FV. It is like manual without the overthinking. Your touchscreen has Aperture, shutter speed, ISO and Exposure Compensation right there. You can see you scene change on the screen as you change a setting. I like to set Auto ISO, so now it is down to Aperture and Shutter Speed. You can get as creative as Manual mode without all that thinking and guessing. It also comes in handy if you need to grab and shoot. You can react and get a good shot if you don't have to think too much.

[@ronjenkins4257]

Absolutely. I've found the FV mode on Canon's newer cameras an excellent mode combining versatility, control, and automation. Very easy to use, and learn.

[@_HMCB_]

I wonder if Nikon has that? [Update: No they don’t.]

[@tonykeltsflorida]

​@@_HMCB_ Canon only

[@jacquesgiard6943]

Thanks!

[@Henri-pp1nq]

I'm mainly a concert photographer. I use manual mode with auto iso, I change my aperture when I hit the iso limit that I set, or shutter speed when aperture and iso are maxed, then I lower shutter speed. But for more creative pictures, I do vary from that. And full manual when there is a flash rigged next to the front lights in smaller clubs with challenging light shows (aka. no front light, and strobo during a dark metal show). For my personal photography projects, I almost exclusively use film, with cameras that don't have automatic features.

[@jamesmlodynia8757]

If you're using manual mode with auto ISO are you still setting your ISO or is the camera doing it, because if you're camera is choosing any parts of the exposure triangle then you are not truly shooting in manual mode. I worked with a guy that stated he was a vegetarian, when I asked him what he ate he said fish and cheese, I said that's ok but your not a true vegetarian if you're eating fish, he replied fish is not meat, needless to say I had a good laugh.

[@Htbaa]

@@jamesmlodynia8757manual mode with auto ISO is still manual mode. The dial on the camera shows that. Nothing wrong with shooting that way. What BS about true manual shooting.

[@susanmeyer8885]

Love the image of the 3 cottages with the lady in blue! Great advice on Aperture mode!

[@LauraF4848]

James, the sunglasses string doesn't make you look old, it makes you look practical! As I write this, I'm having my morning hot chocolate...in my slippers...enjoyed the video, James. Cheers from the USA

[@GameLikeYouMeanIt]

It's funny how as you grow in photography, your view changes. I started out shooting in manual mode only. Eventually I realized partial automatic is amazing. I highly suggest having auto ISO on. Because modern cameras do a good job of getting the lowest possible. ISO is my least creative setting. Shutter speed and F-stop are the ones that really affect the image. I have nailed hundreds more shots since I started allowing myself to use auto ISO.

[@IsawUupThere]

My problem with auto-iso is that I still want to shoot at base iso as much as possible, so I lower the shutter speed until the camera is at near base iso, but now when the scene gets brighter the camera can't adjust the iso any lower and doesn't release. How do you get around that?

[@GameLikeYouMeanIt]

@IsawUupThere With an automatic setting, it probably doesn't want to release while overexposed. It could be a setting that can be changed. Depends on the camera. In a situation with controlled light like a studio, set that iso and don't change it. But with dynamic and changing scenes, I let my auto ISO go to 400 to 800 without an issue. Modern sensors are good for noise. Again, it depends on the camera and the preference. Some higher ISO doesn't bother me. If I want it to be base ISO, I usually just set it at 100

[@photoman3579]

Exact opposite for me....started with AP then after watching Photography Online learnt the real benefits of Manual mode !

[@IsawUupThere]

​@@photoman3579My issue is that I have to shoot firmly above base-iso for the camera to even be able to adjust the iso for brighter than base conditions, otherwise it can only adjust for darker conditions by ramping up the iso. I don't want to shoot 2-3 stops above base iso just to allow auto-iso to function as exposure control. What would be really cool was if a manufacturer came out with an option that adjusts your shutter speed down to a minimum shutter speed that you can set, and only then starts ramping up the iso.

[@ianforber]

@@IsawUupThere Do you find there’s a major improvement by sticking to base ISO? I confess I don’t think about it too much now that sensors are so good but I haven’t done a side by side test.

[@williamsullivan3967]

You made a video a while back about why you use aperture priority and that has been the most helpful tip I’ve received since getting into photography. It has made things so much easier for me as I learn. Thanks as always for your help!!

[@JeevesTCW]

100% agree James I use the exact same technique for my travel shots. A friend of mine uses AP on weddings and manual in the studio which might also make sense.

[@ralphjurgen9456]

I think the longer you shoot, the more you notice your own preferences. I shoot mostly manual a bit of AP and some SP when needed. I think as long as you the photographer like the pictures, the mode, camera and anything else hardly matter.

[@nethbt]

I always worry whether or not I'd get the proper exposure and shutter speed without blurring the subject, in that case I always use APERTURE priority 98 percent of the time.... I only use Manual whenever take landscape tripod shots, but that's very rarely

[@wilfs1196]

First accessory I bought was the camera string, as I also wear regular glasses. I loop it through the handle on my camera bag if I'm taking one (rarely) or I'll but them on my glasses before I leave the house. Always shoot in aperture, auto ISO & mid range F stop depending on the lens.

[@davidmill7289]

Fully agree James. Aperture priority with a minimum shutter speed and maximum ISO works the majority of the time for me. F8 is great!

[@seanorphoto]

That first image with the paddle boarder is just stunning

[@lphilpot01]

I like manual, except when I don't have time to get the job done (i.e., in the moment). 🙂 Then it's usually Av. I can't remember the last time I used Tv. Just a comment (suggestion) on glasses lanyards: I, too, wear glasses and as a photographer (and amateur astronomer), I'm constantly taking them off, putting them on, etc., etc. I've tried the style of lanyard you use in the past but they seemed (to me, at least) to get in the way. However I found some that slip on over the earpieces, so they stay entirely behind my head. Some of these are cloth cords, others are are thin plastic-clad stainless steel cables (that can stay "aloft" instead of resting on the neck). I'm sure they're available in many brands, but I've found I like them far more than the "front mounted" lanyards. They're popular with fishermen, so try looking in a sporting goods outlet if that sounds interesting.

[@kevins8575]

A lot of people seem to fixate on one mode or another. It's best to decide which exposure factor(s) is/are important to you and set the camera accordingly. The camera can set the other things better and faster than can a person.

[@RussandLoz]

As a commercial photographer, I've recently found joy with shooting non-profit shoots with manual lenses such as the 0.95's, which are a very different enjoyable experience bringing me closer to the art of photography. With tech being amazing but doing it all for us, it's good to have an opposite experience. ☺

[@philyoung4804]

Great advice as ever and well done on the ‘Granny strap’ re the glasses. Don’t leave home without it!

[@davidadamson309]

Aperture priority is my go to, I will use shutter if I'm shooting aircraft or other fast moving objects and manual when I'm either having a tough time getting the exposure right or I need to be in bulb mode. Your episodes are always quite helpful thank you for doing them.

[@vintagemoderncomputing]

Funny, I went from Program to Manual and naturally shifted to Av. Since I have an EOS R, I have ISO on the touch bar, Exp comp on thumb wheel and aperture on finger wheel. Av with full manual control whenever I feel like it!

[@dragonstring1]

I operate the exact same way, except with an R5 its a third dial instead of the Touch Bar

[@TedSchade88]

James, some of your wisest words ever. Aperture priority, minimum shutter speed, auto-ISO, f8 and concentrate on your composition. Composition is the thing that makes a great photo, not all the other stuff. We need to understand the details, but let our excellent cameras handle them. Thanks again.

[@midlifeadventuretravels]

Another great video James and excellent points - also nice to see your beard is matching the more and more the great and black of the DJI mic with each video!

[@simonmaney3438]

I switched from AP to manual some years ago and have never looked back. You get very good (fast) at it, maintain complete control of your exposures, and there is a nice consistency in your workflow. I figure if metering was reliable, there would be no need for an exp.comp dial.

[@PJBelfield]

I use aperture priority quite a lot, especially when out and about. I have a custom dial mode that favours fast shutter speeds for when I’ve got a telephoto lens on. But somethings have to be manual, any long exposures with NDs or anything in the studio or in fact anything involving any off camera flash.

[@MrJimDG]

I was taught (in the early 90's, yep I'm now old) to start at f8, then work from there for each scene

[@janwilson9485]

I find that when doing 'walk around' photography f5.5 - f8 is my set apature as at a push it will do landscape, street scenes, running dogs and people. If Im not pushed for an immediate shot I then will set a more specific apature for the effect I want before returning it to f5.6 or f8 and continuing the walk.

[@krishnakumarr9619]

I now have two adjacent custom mode where only thing saved is the shutter speed , one at 200th and the other at 10" . Mainly out of the concerning amount of cranking I do to the SS dial when I go long exposure and then come back to normal stuff, multiple times.

[@scrptwic]

James My cameras have TAV MODE it allows me to set shutter and aperture with auto ISO I use it mainly for wildlife photography mainly birds stationary and in flight. For normal photography I use Apature Priority with autu ISO the only time I use shutter Priority is for specialized photography. IE waterfalls, motion blur.

[@gordon3988]

I was hoping that was you on the Paddleboard…oh the photos we could have had! Great advice and loved some of photos we did see!

[@danielhenzphotography]

I started using aperture prio after Ou posted a video about it years and years ago. Before that, as a newbie, I shot manual because, that's how the "pro's" said to do. You need the shoot manual to learn about exposure. These days, I can't remember when I did last. And I still know, how a exposure triagle works. So thanks James, for easing up my shooting workflow.

[@T0DDkinsey]

Watching your videos and the locations, I understand Turner’s paintings more. There seems to be an almost constant haze, which probably takes on tremendous color (which we see in his artwork) at sunrise and sunset. Thank you for your videos. Somehow I seem to enjoy photographers from the UK rather than the states. Perhaps because on my mother’s side I’m first generation…? While my dad’s side fits back to the earliest settlers.

[@gregfisher216]

When I first started out ,I shot in AV mode and got great shots. These days I shoot in manual mode and as you britts would say, it does get a bit fiddly ! I have the EOS R and if I want to use exposure Bracketing ,I have to be in AV mode. For what ever reason , when I am in AV mode, I will set my aperture say F5.6 , the EV screen will not tell what my shutter speed is ! I just I need to fiddle with a bit .

[@kidmohair8151]

I think I know why you go places other than Wales, lovely as it is...£. 08:39 I love it when the ADD kicks in. there's a little rush of excitement. (1st edit) my predilection is to let the camera do the work. it's usually very good at it. my task is to see. (2nd edit) why do you have an abhorrence of the "harsh"...

[@warmoaran3]

I will always use manual, because its not time wasted looking at my settings, its time considering the shot, and making sure its how I want it to be..

[@jamesmlodynia8757]

Regardless of the mode you use you as a photographer need to be mindful of your camera settings, if you're not mindful of the conditions that you are photographing in and the settings of your camera your photos will show it.

[@warmoaran3]

​@jamesmlodynia8757 yeap. Before I had a camera with manual, I had to use Program AE, and it wasn't fun. A lot of shots turned out shaky because I wasn't looking at the shutter speed. I know you can set a minimum, but at that point, why not just change it yourself? It's only going to take a second to get the right settings.. and that's a second making sure everything I right

[@janwilson9485]

Im taking it your not a sports or wildlife photographer!!

[@warmoaran3]

​@@janwilson9485 I do a bit of everything, not professionally yet. And I use manual with no issue, mainly because the camera I use, is basically either 1/1000 shutter or less

[@johnlinney8685]

I shoot every time in aperture priority. I use quite a few old film lenses and that means I have to choose my aperture. I have a minimum shutter speed but I generally let the camera decide what my shutter speed is. I also rarely ever shooting f16 (usually tops about f11).

[@janwilson9485]

Great video. Manual is useful but I find that Apature mode works the best for general photography, particularly wandering around outdoors. Outdoor use of manual mode in most UK weather conditions, which are infinitely changable, relies on auto ISO or lots of ISO fiddling which slows down shooting. However, auto ISO robs you of the ability to change the exposure with exposure compensation which causes other problems - I often 'over expose' beach scenes by 1 or 2 stops to get a 'correct' exposure. So after all the rambling I could just have said I totally agree with you!!

[@brandishwar]

I'm typically on aperture priority, but with my ISO set to 400, 100 if I'm under direct heavy sunlight. And if light goes low, then I switch to manual with a set aperture and shutter speed, but with auto-ISO. I do the same if I'm using my 200-500mm. The only time I'm full manual is when using a flash.

[@vin424242]

You have a lot of comments saying manual with auto ISO, so not really shooting in manual is it, i use auto ISO indoors but outdoors its usually aperture priority and look at the light to set the ISO and use the compensation dial for exposure, i do however shoot totally manual with my old film cameras cos ive got no choice,

[@peterjohnson1739]

Spot in. Auto-ISO is as much an auto-mode as either aperture priority or shutter priority. I started photography with a fully-manual film SLR. ISO was fixed by film choice (usually for 36 exposures). All cameras were manual and there was no autofocus. To get consistently good results needed knowledge, understanding & care. Fast forward to today … aperture, shutter speed and ISO can all be set either manually or automatically. The key is understanding which subjects are best suited to which mode. Using manual mode because “that’s what ‘proper’ photographers do” is, to put it politely, misguided.

[@vin424242]

@peterjohnson1739 im only an amateur with a love of cameras, especially old ones now, took up photography in my youth, first slr was a Praktica MTL3 and i used that taking Formula 2 stockcar shots in bright to fading light as they were evening races for a mates sponsor, i was proud of them as he had them printed and hung on his office wall, i gave up photography for many years untill 8 years ago but the only camera i kept from those days was the MTL3, dug it out, bought a film and now i'm hooked on film, develope my own again but sadly no room to have a darkroom again as no room to put one

[@Catsandcamera]

I've only ever used manual, because I shoot concerts. I find it easier to change quickly and have control with the constantly changing lights / smoke/ movement etc. To the point where I'm lost trying to shoot in normal day light in general! I'm terrible at gauging how to shoot landscape, even though I love the idea of doing it. Need a lot more practice, and shutter / aperture priority would probably help a lot!

[@alberte6109]

One of the first things my dad thought me was use aperture priority, and honestly besides the old DLSR unable to catch the moment fast enough during low light conditions, it has been very useful. Hopefully I'll get a mirrorless camera soon.

[@jonstout7635]

Good points. For years I was using aperture priority and laughed at. So I bowed to peer pressure and went to using manual most of time. Now I hear more sharing their love of aperture priority, so I'm going back without any apologies.

[@bitsandblocks7826]

Great video James, my default is Aperture Priority. I used to use Manual for consistent exposure across multiple images but now I just use Exposure Lock to achieve that for me. You are very lucky to have such beautiful scenery on your doorstep in Wales. The Welsh tourist board should be sponsoring you vs Squarespace! 🙂

[@MLodge]

I find that using manual exposure means I spend far less time fiddling with the camera, not more. No wrestling with an algorithm using the exposure compensation dial or going into menus to switch metering modes because it’s exposing for the wrong thing. I set the exposure to get the result I want in 2 seconds or less, and I don’t need to touch it again until the light or my intent for the images changes. If you ever find yourself using the exposure compensation dial then you could have set manual exposure yourself, faster - because the camera software has been wasting your time guessing at your intent for the image, getting it wrong, forcing you to fiddle with settings.

[@SinickleMe]

This.

[@1d0ru]

There's no functional difference between adjusting exposure comp in aperture priority and adjusting shutter speed in manual mode. You're still using metering to tell you where to set your exposure in manual, and therefore still going to be changing your metering mode if it's metering for the wrong thing. Exposure comp is the same turn of a dial that adjusting shutter or aperture would be in manual, so frankly I'm not sure what you're talking about.

[@MLodge]

@@1d0ru There's a big difference because you never have to change metering mode -- you're only ever using spot metering with manual exposure. If you spot meter the highlights and the shadows, that's all the information you need to choose the exposure you want (Ansel Adams codified this as The Zone System) If you use a metering algorithm (a "mode"), you don't know what it decided to do with the highlights and shadows -- or what value they have. So you end up trying to "fix" its guess... and at that point it would have been faster to just spot meter and choose the exposure.

[@jamesmlodynia8757]

I have been using aperture priority for 16 years, now most times people that talk about modes,talking aperture priority say all you do is set aperture, I don't take that route. First most people don't take into account the size of the sensor of the camera being used using a APSC or micro 4/3 will give you the ability to achieve a great depth of field on any aperture. Regardless of the camera I use aperture is the most important setting to consider since it controls depth of field, also focal length plays an important part, a wider focal length will give you more depth of field than a telephoto lens. So depending upon the subject you are photographing and how much you want in focus you choose your aperture. Next ISO, I take into consideration the amount of light in the scene, if the subject is stationary or moving, if I want motion blur or will everything in the photo be completely sharp, lastly will I be shooting with a tripod or handheld. If I have my camera on a tripod I use the self timer or a cable release with the lowest ISO that I can. If I'm shooting birds in flight I use a Fujifilm XH2 with a 100-400mm lens, t do so hand held, if the light is good ISO IS SET at 1000 or higher aperture is 5.8 to f8. I use exposure comp as necessary. I have gone as high as ISO 3200 depending upon the light there are times when the light is low and the lens being a F5.6 even at ISO 3200 the shutter speed might not be enough to get a good photo on a moving subject, then depending upon the camera you may have to push a higher ISO but the quality of the photo may not be good.

[@dennisfrederick9304]

I agree you get beat up about manual mode and I settled on aperture priority a long time ago. I don't even use auto iso since if I need more shutter speed I can dial-up iso at the touch of one external button in seconds giving me almost manual mode control without a lot of diddling . Well done James .

[@LeeRatcliffe]

I've pretty much always used Av unless night skies or panoramas etc where manual is needed. Since getting the A7Riii it's typically Av & auto ISO with a minimal shutter speed. Same since I've picked to X100f up, not actually selected a SS or ISO on it yet! And the number of landscapes I've shot at 35mm & f/1.4 are countless......!!

[@Mariner1460]

All good points, thanks for sharing. I don't really care what mode I'm technically in (I shoot Canon's "flexible priority" mode), but I do have a priority for how I select my settings: 1) choose aperture for creative effect, 2) set shutter speed only if I want/need to reduce or increase motion blur (most of the time I let it float), and 3) ISO be damned. About the only time I go full manual is when using flash.

[@andymcgarty3099]

Excellent advice and something I've done since film days. I don't shoot nature or sports, so its all about the aperture.

[@abdusco]

I'm using a M43 camera for street photography. The camera I have (Lumix GX80) doesn't have the "min shutter speed" feature, so I'm rocking the shutter priority mode for the last 2 months or so. I have a f4-5.6 cheapo kit lens on, meaning I have basically zero background separation. The camera is set to 1/250s, so I get practically zero motion blur with none of the lenses I own. My photos end up with f8-f16 aperture during daytime. Everything is in focus. This challenges me to play with the scene to isolate my subjects with better composition, rather than getting lazy with fast lenses and cranking them open to f2 and drowning everything in bokeh. I think it has made me a better photographer.

[@christof4105]

When i started my hobby 2 years ago, my camera was always in manual, because thats how you take photos like a pro, right? After many lost shots because of ridiulous settings, i switched to aperture priority and my photography improved. However, nowadays im always in Fv (Flexible Automatic) which is basically every mode on the dial at the same time.

[@ronjenkins4257]

I'm increasingly convinced FV is the mode I'll use most in the future.

[@kengriffith45]

I use Aperture Priority since being turned on to this mode some years back. I’m not bothered about RAW, as I’m not really very fond of the whole editing process. I can get pictures that please me and (more importantly!) my wife from our travels and they’re decent enough to print for our walls. The easier the process, the better!

[@peterlongenecker210]

Really like the rope strap -- where did you get it?

[@bueb8674]

The only time I use manual is for night sky and birds. For night sky, full manual, you need to tell the camera what do do looking at mostly black. For birds, you need to be up and down on shutter(still vs moving) and with a 600mm, you need to pay attention to dof much more than wider lenses. Still using auto ISO since there's no time for that with fast action.

[@davidpowell5437]

If you are an old man, what does that make me? I'm old enough to remember setting my aperture to a whole or a half image of the sun or a cloud - so dealing with manual exposure really doesn't feel like a burden or a distraction - it just feels like being "in charge". That said, I have been thinking of late that I ought to give the new fangled stuff a proper try out, and as I'm currently awaiting the delivery of my first mirrorless camera, with all the newness that implies, this could well be the time to branch out! Always a pleasure to hear and consider your thoughts. Of late, you have been demonstrating a remarkable ability to handle bright skies without actually blowing them out. If you could see your way to providing a few pointers... 🙂

[@SinickleMe]

Getting the latest (superb EVF) mirrorless camera would ironically, be the time to embrace fully manual even more! WYSIWY(are going to)G! Same for manual WB too. I cannot remember the last time I used aperture priority. Film days YES (with exposure compensation dial. DSLR days less so, eventually a mix of mostly fully manual and aperture priority. Yet mirrorless (Fuji since around 2015, after well over 25 years of Canon EOS) ... well each era since especially X-T1 viewfinder immersive brilliance - I have embraced 'seeing' the 'correct' exposure before even pressing the shutter release. I shoot Jpeg to one card and (only because I can) RAW to the other. I absolutely 99.9% of the time NEVER feel the need to process the RAW file.

[@davidpowell5437]

​@@SinickleMe Having now sampled the delights I can only agree with you. However the branching out I had in mind was simply making more use of Auto ISO and trying Matrix metering instead of Spot - a long time favourite. Will I change my ways? Who knows? But it's certainly a good time to find out 😊

[@andrewroland]

I agree James, I almost always use Aperture priority too.

[@DanHaug]

Honestly... I subscribed to this channel just because of the amount of time you spend photographing Wales. :)

[@5ringsmaster]

f8 and be there. -weegee (maybe) You are espousing many of the same values my graduate level photo J prof did. Well done. Automation wasn't really a thing in the 70s, when I started. But I clearly remember realizing that the camera was mostly making the same choices I would.

[@althejazzman]

My friend seems to prefer shutter priority which I always find really unhelpful in taking a good picture! I've been using aperture priority forever unless I'm trying to do something really unusual and arty.

[@paulplus3830]

Good choice of music.

[@theoldfremi]

Best video and point of view I've ever seen man! Thank you very much. Greetings from Venezuela. 🤓👏🏻

[@joshuaconti989]

fantastic points. it really comes down to case by case. I live in manual but almost at 100% auto ISO usage because I lock in specific apertures based on what im shooting and need to adapt shutter to it. but if i didnt do that- this would be what i would do!

[@Arterial449]

I think one big issue is that cameras still occasionally get photometry pretty off; i.e. optimising the histogram which isn’t necessarily always the result you’re looking for. I feel instead of using exposure adjustment, having a good sense of all manual for these situations are good

[@xcx8646]

All of the shooting modes have their uses, which is why they are there. Just using one is silly, because unless you solely shoot in one type of situation with one kind of light scenario it won't always be the best choice. Same with metering (matrix, spot, particle) metering modes, and autofocus modes, if your camera is that sophisticated. There are no shortcuts. You have to learn how the gear works.

[@musiqueetmontagne]

For anything moving, even landscapes if you want to freeze movement in trees or grasses because of strong wind for example, I use manual mode with auto ISO. This gives you spit second control over Shutter speed and Aperture but gives you a correct exposure instantly. For everything else Aperture priority or for that odd really critical shot, full manual including ISO...

[@Dr.Mark.Marzinzik]

Thank you for this inspiration! I will try aperture mode with setting a minimum shutter speed. I am often photographing people talking to each other. I guess I have to use 1/160 at minimum, don’t I?

[@jpdj2715]

I think, dear Dr., that 1/160 is a maximum. It all depends. On (1) your own steadiness. (2) the camera's ability to compensate photographer-caused motion (3) the frame size (camera's format) - 1mm move with a 24mm frame is a lot and 1mm to a 56 mm frame is much less impacting (4) subject motion and its vector relative to the camera (5) the lens's focal length or image angle can play a role - like looking through powerful binoculars is difficult to hold still. You need to test your use case or use cases for where the bloody limit is in your eyes in a combination of these factors. And then stay on the safe side of that. In the past we wasted film, processing, and associated costs. Today we waste pixels and worst case shutter clicks. If you test shoot these use cases, also test different ISO levels. You may want a form of Auto-ISO too and want to block off ISO ranges that wil not meet your quality standards. Her you want to set a maximum ISO value for Auto-ISO operation. Noise or grain generally follows from bad raw processing (raw conversion) and you need to test two things: (a) how likely you will suffer from or complain to yourself about grain/noise, and (b) how well your post processing raw processing software is at this. To test (a) you need a low contrast subject with blurry aspects and darker zones in order for the old school algorithms in raw processing not to have something clear to hold on to. "Bad raw processing algorithms" (b) will give you grainy pictures easily. As to my joking remark about the time in seconds, the actual shutter mechanism in a camera has a fixed speed. Exposure time is determined by the time between opening and closing - physically with physical shutters and in fact physically in a sensor with "electronic shutter" as well. 50 years ago I could easily shoot sharp handheld 1/15th second images, but today's cameras register motion better and I'm not as steady any more. That said, I just migrated to a new camera with much better in-body stabilisation (the sensor compensates my movements but motion in the sensor plane is solved by shifting the effective crop from the sensor that has many more rows and columns outside the effective image area - this happens in the image processing pipeline in the camera and has no latency effect on the photos or video. Depending

[@sebastianmitroi]

Hi James, what settings are you using when you are taking photos of your child, especially indoors ? I have a little girl who is almost 2 years old and indoors I usually have f2.5, 1/320s and auto ISO which depending on the light, is from 100 to 8000. I can't use f1.8 because my canon RP with RF 50mm 1.8 is soft at f1.8 and also too shallow. What other tips and tricks do you have for shooting little humans which are moving so fast and the light is not great? Maybe you do a video about this :)

[@charleshodge1223]

I agree i think that would be a video that would help a lot of people - who want to capture family moments, and try a bit more than just a mobile phone camera. A tricky subject to capture as surprisingly fast moving and never still. I found faster shutter speed (1/1000 !) helped, and turn the lights on :-) Indoor/fast moving/low light is a challenge

[@Rexyspride]

Hi James. I'm off to the Brecon Beacons soon and wondered if you had any tips on the best shutter speed for waterfalls? I want that creamy goodness but I want it to still look like water.

[@edphoto]

Best £2 i ever spent on strings for my glasses. Absolute game changer.

[@greenmedic88]

I tend to set and forget shutter speed, based upon what type of subjects I'm shooting, except when using fine shutter tuning mode to reduce banding with certain frequency artificial lights at live performance venues. That's extremely specific. And most cameras don't even allow fine shutter tuning, which is typically only in shutterless cameras like the Z9. Manual Mode, auto ISO. I'm typically only adjusting aperture anyway. If shooting in natural light and the sun keeps shifting, it's either variable ND or adjust shutter, which I can't do in aperture priority mode. I still sometimes use it when the lighting is preset (artificial, night scenes, room lighting, etc.) and I know I'm going to shoot the same scene with multiple different aperture settings.

[@niels_1608]

Learnt something! Thanks! Also - love that blue jacket

[@jaspercaelan4998]

I started out using full manual on a tripod after about 6 months mostly using aperture priority except for a few exceptions like panos and long exposures. I often just turn on auto-iso when I'm hand held too. The more you can do to automate the process of taking a photo the better as the more you can concentrate on your composition/lighting etc which is way more important.

[@markgoostree6334]

but.... I like manual mode. Sometimes, when I get to a place for photography, I take one shot ( or two ) in program mode. Then I will play with "A"... or "S"... But I just like playing with the settings so they are in the game. Good stuff, and I really need to try working with what you were talking about. Funny, I find myself hovering around f-8, f-11 and f-5.6 because that seems to work for what I'm doing. I look for your videos... learn every time!

[@danielgoldberg2129]

In regards to blowing out a photo with high ISO’s, I’ve noticed that when I’m looking at a scene with my sunglasses on, it looks like a better image than when I look through the view finder. I think I’m just searching for that image I’m seeing before I look through the camera. Hope that makes sense.

[@AndyBanner]

There's something, always something, about your photos. James that i find interesting. You capture relatively mundane scenes apply a preset (or summat) to them that just makes bland less bland. Don't take that the wrong way. I have to really work at that to get things that I don't consider to be "throwaway". Maybe it's because of the attachment I have to my own mundane stuff. Dunno. Anyway, entertaining as ever.

[@stuartcarden1371]

Wonderful video as always James. I've realised your photos remind me a lot of the work of Luigi Ghirri. I've always loved your work and his but only now has the link between your styles become clear to me. It's probably just a happy accident but you both definitely share an aesthetic quality

[@NJM1948]

Did you not consider taking those 3 small islands (one with a lighthouse on) as the only subject? ie no foreground? Would make a great minimalist B&W shot especially in those grey conditions you had

[@peteg330]

Funny you should mention the glasses chain, I'm thinking exactly the same but worried about my street cred! Now, if James can use one then I deffo can too.

[@GG-zv9ku]

on a nikon camera shutter speed and aperture are so easy to access on the fly that manual with auto iso is not an issue at all. on the other hand if I use aperture priority mode but a set minimum shutter speed and at any point a want longer shutter speed than the minimum I set now I have to mess with settings...

[@lyndapassey2752]

Very useful. Thank you.

[@jklphoto]

Preach James! Amateurs who think they must use manual mode with a modern digital camera to be considered professional are misguided. Or simply virtue signaling. Most of these folks wouldn't know a gray card if it fell out of their Hadley Pro. Or an incident light meter. There is only shutter speed, aperture and ISO. Far more time should be spent on composition and seeking interesting light.

[@jerrysebi]

Hi James, have you already mentioned if you were going to have a new book coming this year and I missed the announcement? Love what you do keep going.

[@damir1666]

I recently bought a film camera to take me back to my youth, and I remember once again the importance of manual mode: when you need to nail exposure but only have center-weighted metering, (obviously) can’t change ISO, and have no immediate feedback, it’s a god-send. (And it’s kinda fun!) You can replicate all of that on your digital camera: turn off your monitor, turn off auto ISO and maybe set it to 400, set your meter to center-weighted, and you’ll get a taste of what it used to be like. You’ll certainly work more slowly. But ultimately, I agree with James: on a modern camera, there’s no reason to do this, unless you just want to deliberately slow yourself down by orders of magnitude.

[@don7117]

By 'orders of magnitude ', you are describing fractions of a second. In landscape photography, this is arguably a good thing. No need to rush, or spray and pray.

[@christopherleecowan]

Interesting, I have used all the modes in my cameras. Aperture priority for a long time was my Pro Auto Mode. Now it's my second choice! I have switched to using vintage lenses 90% of the time and I have found Manual Mode with auto ISO is a faster and more versatile way of shooting. Note I do set a limit on my ISO to 6400.

[@trishf29]

I used Manual for years until a friend suggested I use Aperture Priority. Now that‘s my ‘go to’ every time, unless the light is low, when I revert to Manual. As for the aperture, I’ve usually got it wide open, from f8 to f2.8, or lower, as I like a soft background for my creative images.

[@snappychappy]

Get the picture at all costs so it's either Program or Aperture Priority. Once in the can I can mess about with Manual or filters etc.

[@LUITESLIFE]

Been using aperture priority mode for about 95% of my shots, since I started with photography really. Only really use manual at night or for long exposure. I've been using auto ISO since long before it was acceptable as well :D Though I must say that I have been using "manual mode" more with my X100VI, just because it's so easy to change with the dials.

[@WMA303]

Wales is mesmerizing!

[@trulsdirio]

Most of the time I would set my aperture and just match the light meter with the shutter speed anyway and the camera can do that just as well as I can. Only rarely do I need to set both and thus need full manual mode. This usually is when doing long exposures (but then I just do live time and stop when the exposure is right), or when doing flash photography.

[@cmphoto_]

I shoot my M11 in auto iso & auto shutter OFTEN. For work if I’m shooting people, it’s Av and auto ISO w/ min shutter speed 1/125th on the R5. Architecture work is always manual though.

[@dillank3240]

The only time I use manual mode only when I am using a flash. Other than that, I always use aperture mode.

[@L.Spencer]

Is there a way to set a group of ranges, so as not to use extremes on auto? I prefer manual, but I do make dumb mistakes like too slow of shutter speed when I'm adjusting the exposure and not paying attention. Many of us amateurs probably have cheaper equipment. My lenses start at 4.5, so 5.6 is on my wide side.