Block Machining Is DONE But The Camshaft DOESN'T FIT... Can We Fix It?

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We're back to work on ‪@ScannerDanner‬ 's 483ci Big Block Mopar Stroker, but we've run into a problem with the cam bearings (surprise surprise!)
Can we fix it?
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#bigblockmopar #cnclathe #customenginebuild

[@JAMSIONLINE]

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[@pipbernadotte6707]

One way, and idk if it's the proper way, to part something in a lathe; is to hold a screwdriver in the center hole and send your cutter all the way through. I've also seen the hack saw method with the lathe turning very slowly.

[@COLLAR01]

What ever happened to making a cutter/clearancer out of the old camshaft

[@traviswhisman2626]

Watch some @CuttingEdgeEngineering

[@Nobody-ld7mk]

Swaging also affects 360°, so you are adding clearance where its not needed, scraping only adds additional clearance to the needed area. Big Block Chevy's that run hard also have cast iron core shift issues. Using coated bearings... forcing a cam in will remove the coating on the high spots... or, there's always Prussian blue. Scraping offers superior results, done right. Bore scope might be handy, picked one up off A**zon myself & fix-n to maybe use it in the near future scrapin cam bearings. Video of the work on the aluminum cylinder heads you did impressed me, ending in ice cream even better.

[@guysumpthin2974]

You’re doing it wrong, sorry

[@theodoreshasta7846]

I really appreciate a video of this length focused so intensely on just one aspect of engine building. It demonstrates what you are trying to accomplish, why it is so important to get it right, and the skill and ingenuity which are brought to bear when things don’t fall into place as they are supposed to. Well done!

[@JAMSIONLINE]

Appreciate the comment! Thanks!

[@drive42]

I hope some younger guys (and girls) are watching this and can see that machine work does not have to be knuckle-dragging in a dungeon for a shop. I like your approach to getting things right!

[@stevejones776]

I remember reading an article by Rick Ehrenberg, the tech editor at Mopar Action magazine, where he said that Chrysler did line hone the cam bearings after they were installed.

[@peteloomis8456]

Unfortunately Mopar Action magazine has gone belly up I just seen in a very recent video on KZbin because the investors decided to pull out because they were mostly selling the magazines on book shelves at news stands and at Walmarts book stands and not many were being sold plus a lot of the car oriented material now is being streamed on KZbin or other platforms and people seem to rather do this than buy a magazine or magazine subscription and actually read the content which I like to read because I enjoy reading . I had bought a Mopar Action magazine from a Walmart book stand & was going to subscribe like I did many years ago 90s then it had gone under but now I'm glad I didn't because some people were saying that they had paid for a magazine subscription just now and didn't get a refund & got burned . UTG just did a video of him and the guy just after the announcement of the magazine going under again I had seen this but I haven't yet sat down to watch it because it's relatively a long video but will get to it once I'm cought up on my own projects lol . I do know that some engine builders use cam bearing knives to scrape the cam bearing if the cam fits tight especially on the Chrysler engines but I've built quite a few of them & yet had any problems with the cam bearings fitting so tight the cam won't turn & I feel that part of the problem is that the cam bearings aren't being made to quality spec standards probably because they are probably made in China now & quality control has dropped just like what's happening with a lot of flat tappet hydraulic and solid cam shafts and lifters that aren't ground correctly or the steel used is too soft because of improper heat treating for hardness that we are seeing & hearing about quite often now with cam & lifter failures even when using the correct amount of zinc added to the oil .

[@MrRustyjackson]

@@peteloomis8456 I ran automotive machine shops back in the 70's and no matter whose cam bearings we used there were always alignment problems. And it was always the #2,3or4 just as shown in this video. This was long before China made stuff.

[@jamespell8091]

This is something I was wondering about. Plus after a couple hundred good hours of running the engine I understand the block kind of falls out of spec with all the irregular concentrates of heat and stress. After this time it is stable and candidate for remanufacturing. Resulting in a better engine than bran spanking new.

[@safetyamsv3515]

"Listen to what I'm thinking, not what I'm saying" Classic quote, I'm stealing it for my own use! BTW, love your videos!

[@drussell_]

If you had needed that second swaging tool to be a tiny tad bigger for a little more clearance, you could simply have heated it up a bit with a heat gun and pulled it through again. I'm sure it would have expanded about the right amount with a modest heating.

[@JAMSIONLINE]

This is an interesting idea!

[@brianb5779]

I was taught a long time ago to take a good cam (not going to be used) and put it on the Bridgeport and endmill all way down in a straight line past all the journals. Your basically making the cam a cutter. Stick it in, rotate one turn and pull out. It takes off all the high spots. Some guys have been doing this for years and years and thats how they correct the issue and thats how i was shown when i ran into my cam not turning for crap. Now some will have a problem w this but some badass motors i know of have been done this way as well as street driven stuff.

[@MrSlipstreem]

"Listen to what I'm thinking, not what I'm saying". That made me chuckle.😂 I hope you guys realise how entertaining you are and how much your videos are appreciated. 🙂👍

[@Sunspot-19]

That was the quote of the year!

[@robertjosephik4010]

I need a t-shirt for my wife that says that! 😂

[@n6mz]

41:30 chuck up a brass or aluminum rod in your tailstock and insert it into the hole in the part. When you part it off, the rod will catch it and keep it from falling into the chip tray.

[@seancollins9745]

I had a mercedes m112 " iirc" inline 6 from a 1966 s250 with efi, and the cam towers were wasted as was the camshaft journals. Had the camshaft spray welded, and then i made ampco45 bearing bronze inserts on my old monarch, pressed them in, then had the head line bored and honed. Cam shaft speeds are typically perfectly fine with ampci brinze and it's way easier to line hone bearings than fight with press fit, line bore,,finish size. As for the drill bit breaking, make yourself a setup tool for your collet holder and indicate the drill bit in on x and z with a indicator on the chuck. Been there done that got the tshirt

[@Mrsnichols1965]

I was taught to do the #1 and #5 cam bearings, install the cam, check it for run out at #3. That would give you an idea of whether any issues were because of the block, or a bad cam machining process. If everything checked at that point, pull the cam, install #3 bearing, and check cam fit and free spin again. If ok, repeat for #2, and #4. This is how i did it in all the small blocks Mopars I've built, and I haven't had any issues. I was advised that a wheel cylinder hone was the solution to tight bearings.

[@verteup]

The self centering broach they made is much, much nicer than a wheel cylinder hone .

[@Mrsnichols1965]

@@verteup and risks exactly what they discussed, pulling the bearing out. Having the CNC like they have, back when I was taught how to do, it was not an option. Usually just enough to polish the protective coating was the key. And worked every time.

[@verteup]

@@Mrsnichols1965 they're also not doing guess work. They want a diameter in a certain spec range. Sometimes guess honing ain't good enough.

[@Mrsnichols1965]

@@verteup no one is guess honing if they have calipers or micrometers. Even more to the point, no one is damaging or obscuring oil passages if a hone is used. A broach pushes material, which may not be desirable if the bearing has chamfered oil holes. So, you do what you feel works, and I'll live with my success.

[@MsFireboy2]

Excellent job guys. I think the more you use the lathe the easier it will get. Thanks for posting.

[@ThirteenTwentyRepair]

Best advice I’ve seen on this subject is Nick installing one bearing at a time and trying the cam each time, that lets you know what bearing is tight. My machinist polished the cam journal which is easier to do on a lathe, than honing out the bearings in the tunnel. My ghetto ass took an old cam and cut a groove in each journal, when I put in bearings I run that cam through first to clearance each bearing before cleaning and installing my cam. I also learned on mopars to always install the cam first so I can clean the oil passages (after bearing work) before assembly.

[@JOMaMa..]

I stand the block up rear down and utilize gravity when fitting the cam journals into respective bushings

[@markbiondinosr.68]

Love watching you guys it takes me back when i was a young boy watching my grandfather in his shop he was also a machinist

[@chriswitts7706]

Nice job on fitting the cam to bushings correctly

[@LHarry-c2t]

I've built several big block Chryslers and they almost all had tight cams. The first one was a back yard build and I spun the cam in pretty forcefully and then hand scraped and polished the tight bearings where they shined up. Slow tedious process and I didn't like that so I made me a tool from an old cam on the next one. Used a cutoff wheel on a Dremel tool and ground a diagonal cut across the 3 middle journals. I ground them on an angle into the journal to form sort of a "blade". Lube it up and gently turn it in with a wrench with just a slight pressure in. Sometimes they make a bit of shavings but usually just a smidge in the groove. Seems to make a nice finish on the bearing without scratching it up. I did take my time making the grooves and cleaned them up to a smooth blade. It works very well and fast too with no special tools. I think I've used it 4 times so far.

[@lonnalachner7344]

Outstanding work way to think outside of the box. I helps when you have the right tools available.

[@cyberhornthedragon]

love that cam bearing installer im so old school the hammer and hope it fits modisoperandi

[@JAMSIONLINE]

It’s pretty nice!

[@claudemills1961]

I'm glad you mentioned it, because I was wondering about it pulling the bearing through.

[@miceinoz1181]

I certainly would not have bothered 'swedging' the other bearings, as it spins nicely with the two already done. A great video of a simple solution to a problem. Well done

[@88SC]

Cleaning guy was joking about rolling the greased swage tool through gritty grunge. It reminded me that in some of the old magazines years ago, some guys took Scotchbrite to brand new rod and main bearings to “clean them up” before assembly!

[@verteup]

Good thing is 000 and 0000 scotchbrite will not remove material.

[@richardkilb8305]

Great lateral thinking on the cam bearing broach!!!

[@pauljanssen7594]

Many time I've had to carve out the cam bearings to make the can fit it's called core shifting. Some people have made camshafts, a old camshaft that's straight and made it into a cam bearing cutter. And we would punish the bearings out Emery cloth or Brillo pad

[@oldandboosted]

You guys have much more experience with mopar's than I do, however, I have built probably 20 small blocks big blocks and slant sixes. The only blocks that gave me cam tunnel trouble were the slant sixes.

[@bryanbsa8927]

f57:11 Or, Make the individual to size for each bearing and then make spacers to fit in between each broach so you could build a "stack" and pull them all at once. More flexible that way, some would call it "custom"! Great job, excellent team work. 👍

[@johnkrag6]

I keep a babbitt bearing scraper in my machine shop to use in this situation. Sometimes the side you push on distorts the leading edge of the bearing. And that's even using a BHJ cam bearing installation tool kit.

[@floridaroadracerguy]

What about measuring the clearance of each cam journal and grinding (polish) the camshaft journal to fit?

[@JAMSIONLINE]

You could, but it’s not necessarily the best solution. Think about this: the tight spot in the bearing itself may not be a uniform circle. It might just be a .5” section of the circle that is tight. By using our tool, we’re pushing that out, and hopefully making a nice round hole when it’s finished. If you polish the cam down to fit, you now have a round cam in a not round bearing.

[@davidlampe4153]

Spring cut, when you rough cut the part and then perform a finish pass it’s been my experience to leave it 001-003 oversized you can always make another pass or use some emery cloth to finish to size. If your lathe is a little worn out the slightly less pressure on your finish pass might be closer than you expected. The lathe in this video is new so you have less wear and your cut is still precise. Use a feeler gage when setting up the edge of the part so you can make adjustments and know if you are too loose or too tight without damaging the part or your tool edge.

[@fredmetcalf]

You guys do a good job on the video shooting......and, the humor makes sense.....your narration and interactions in doing the work make a lot of sense and are easily understandable.....

[@Chris-b3u8h]

you can capture a part when parting off by using the tail stock chuck tightened onto a dowel and then slid into the hole in the part

[@mikemanning3025]

You fellas are GOOD! Congrats on your accomplishment!! Mike from Delaware.

[@georgesheffield1580]

Great reason for OHC's instead of push rod valve actuation

[@RadioMarkCroom]

I'm pretty fascinated by this operation. Nicely done, men!

[@ab2230]

Appreciate this channel quite a bit: the cleaning guy is coming along, I've been watching since his broom days and good to see he's picking up on CNC work -- maybe let him use the computer (the first episodes, I thought he really was a cleaning guy ...)

[@tfast2958]

I watch you guys at night. You're therapeutic for me thanks!

[@logancarter2134]

Wow! What a fantastic episode! I will say y'all made a silk purse out of a sow's ear! And I think y'all will know exactly what that saying means... I love watching y'all work together!!!

[@kurtisstutzman7056]

Thanks for sharing...! I never knew boat anchors needed cam bearings, or even had cams at all...!? Who knew... Keep up y'alls awesomeness...!!!

[@nhzxboi]

Crude, but it works when you have nothing else available is to scrape with a sharp straight-edge. Gotta do it slow. When you try to turn the cam and it's tight, it leaves shiny spots where the material needs to be scraped. Or, take the old cam and bang on it from as many angles as you can to "swage" the bearings. That works(sometimes) too.

[@doughelmle6575]

my 440 block had the same cam issue . It was explained to me that from the factory ,many blocks had core shift . when the factory was building the engines ,they used a cam bearing cutter to relieve the bearings . It looked like a cam that had angle slices cut into the cam journals. install it and twist . my machinist took care of it for me.

[@ProSimex84]

Damn, I can not wait until I can get my sons doing some problem solving and business creation in my shop. It's just too cool the dynamic you've got going on.

[@Shiftyspeedshop]

1/4 rod in the tailstock makes a good parts catcher.

[@scottsmith2366]

Great work mate, was watching in anticipation for you to remember to remove the chuck key, awaiting your next upload

[@paulvandepol1616]

Hi Guys, May be if have a look at a local Australian lathe worker it may help you a little.. Curtis is not a CNC worker but his lathe work is rite up there. Cutting Edge Engineering is his U Tube channel. Cheers keep up the good work.

[@Robert-to9zv]

Fantastic work and logical analysis.

[@JonathanDeaux]

When Pop says test fit after each bearing install, that's experience speaking. As my father always said, "A smart man learns from his mistakes, a wise man learns from others."

[@donniceblakely1075]

We had a roller type burnishing tool for the 2.3 ranger engines years ago. It would roll the clearance into the cam bearing. I don't know if there is anything like that available anymore. But it worked well.

[@bcwrangler]

I didn't know Mopar had issues with cam bearings until now, I thought I was just unlucky when I rebuilt my own engine in high school in '86 I had to use emery cloth on my cam bearings in my SBM. used a cam installation tool that would be small enough we could wrap that emery cloth around and spin it inside the bearing until the cam would spin. It turned out it wasn't enough so after 15G miles it stretched my timing chain out so I had to replace that and it was good to go.

[@1drivenone]

Rather than one long bar do individual broaches (which it sounds like you did) and spacers. Pull all 5 through at the same time. That way you are still aligned with the center bar and all journals line up, but you can stack up whatever size broach you want.

[@milwaukeeroadjim9253]

Yes, the proper term is Swagged, however some rifle barrels are swagged instead of broached.

[@JAMSIONLINE]

After further research the proper term is actually burnished lol

[@tomcleghorn4005]

Awesome work I’d never heard of swedging

[@ElvinLeadfoot]

Nice Cam Bearing Installer :) Jim & Son to the rescue.

[@Nobody-ld7mk]

When you put the cam in and turned it there should have been burnished witness marks left on the bearings... I just go in and scrape the high marks with a selected piece of broken glass. (small picture frame glass and put in a towel and break it up) You can affix broken glass with epoxy to a dowel, make custom scrapers. Then there's the ol' method of cutting cutting groves in a cam core, stand the block on its tail and drop the cam in while turning the cam to scrape the high spots. Bearing material is soft/malleable, sure you can swage.

[@mjl1132]

It cracks me up, that you good folks across the pond can work so easily with imperial measurements, impressive 👍👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@ProSimex84]

Now imagine being a Canadian and using both hahaha

[@billybgamer5205]

Why? I used to work in a UK machine shop in the 80s, most machines were imperial and all the drawings were metric, you got so you could convert between systems in your head and be within 0.001" most of the time on lathes & mills. I was making aircraft parts among others, sometimes grinding with as little as 0.01mm tolerances (0.000394")

[@ellieprice363]

Why not? It’s what Americans are used to and comfortable with. It would be much more difficult and error producing converting to metric on an engine with Imperfect dimensions. Always use the system you’re most familiar with.

[@lukebrennan5780]

I grew up with Imperial and then Australia switched to Metric when I was about 10. Never had a problem doing either and can switch most things fairly easily to the other in my head. In fact, I have had a little table/chart on the wall for yonks, that shows metric to imperial and imperial to metric in 64th's. Always handy when you want a smidgeon more than something millimeters for a tap and you reach for n/64ths drill. In general, I prefer to think in Metric, but each is just a way to measure and doesn't really matter which one you prefer. Oh but just keep in mind that BSP still seems to rule the world for pipe fittings, heh!

[@JACB006]

👍 Great Job … Just a thought, why not order a special order cam with no lobes and specify oversized journals (with the clearance, mid section hump) from one of the cam manufacturers? Might that be a cheaper way to get such a tool? If not, now that you have that nice new CNC lathe … get programming and make a small production run and sell the tool. Very useful insight into the Mopar cam bushings and their particular fitment issues. Thanks.

[@stephenpoe2037]

How interesting was this ! Thanks for sharing !

[@AaronBelknap]

Well, I reckon it’s better to swage the bearings than put valve grinding compound on the journals! 😁 I was hoping you’d run the swage through the rest of the bearings for poop and grins! Great video and precise machine work!

[@dannywilsher4165]

Sure wish I had one of those fancy hydraulic installer when I owned a machine shop. That thing is cool! Beats the heck out of beating the the heck out of installing them with a hammer!!!

[@lutherschoen4012]

You could bring in the tailstockwith a wooden dowel chucked into it to catch a part with a hole in it

[@jimarmentrout2959]

That was a pretty cool trick, nice job guys

[@BEANS-O-MATICtransmissions]

I was thinking use an old cam and hit it with a large hammer and thick brass rod at multiple angles to seat the high spots down. You couldn't have got them in straighter so that wasn't the issue. Great solution since you have the tool and skills

[@LeslieOtwell]

Could see it when you machined it. Very nice work guys!

[@RandyGeorgeson]

Great job i like watching the stuff you work on and the machine work u do that's cool a big thumbs up 👍

[@daviddegrandchamp2078]

My dad and I are actually about to rebuild a 440 you guys need to market those tools so I can get some

[@paulmichalek1858]

A tapered cone with a tool steel rod like the old clutch alignment tool might help

[@LilYeshua]

Smart and very educational

[@snapper2784]

Put a small bar smaller than the hole you drilled and put in in the tail stock and put bar into work and part off. when cutting through the piece will sit on the rod and not fall.

[@larryssnova76]

Maybe next time after the cam is installed try torquing the main caps on and see if it changes anything

[@charleswelch249]

I believe you found a good way to fix a common issue with Chrysler. I've ran into the same situation when I was younger. Wish I had your fix, but I just used 600 grit emory paper on the tight generals that showed signs of being tight until the camshaft fit nicely. I never understood why they couldn't make it easier to work on the Chrysler product in general. But you do one correctly They're dependable and powerful for a long time. Great video and great job fixing the issue without damaging anything. Besides the 2 you fixed looks better than the rest now.

[@alanm2842]

timmy petty did a video on this problem. his fix was about the same as yours.

[@davidkettell1073]

You are doing very well ,i used to teach CNC there is definitely a steep learning curve . The software is a great help but a machinists instint is more important . As some of my students found out ,just because you can draw it in the software does not mean the lathe can cut it. TOOL BITS AND CHUCKS DO NOT PLAY WELL TOGETHER. PS! Make it a habit remove the chuck key everytime you loosen the chuck ! Don't ask me how i know .

[@jmflournoy386]

The shade tree way to clearance was to cut grooves in a cams journals making a reamer and twist it through, and or use a bearing scraper not quite lined up- that's what drills are for ( what I said after an inspection and could see NO oil holes) our motto "do it fast, do it wrong, do it over" have check that BOTH the cam feed and rocker feed are open Drilling and reaming the oil feeds to 9/32 the 5/16 makes alignment easier reaming gives smoother holes I never tried burnishing, worth a shot. Usually block was line bored so line bored the cam tunnel to get both all right with each other. now to watch further one long bar can correct for misbored block- or not cheers note to self- check cam for straight

[@grudd61]

Absolute gem of a video!! Very impressive..

[@wacholder5690]

It is always fun to see both of you working. It is entertaining, it has a lot background knowledge and even educational moments. The only downside for european viewers (like me) is the blacksmith measures you use ... ;-) Thanks for sharing !

[@michaelpaczynski941]

Great video. When swaging the bearings, do you care about cold working and hardening their surface with the cam?

[@Paul1958R]

I was surprised you didnt make one tool at a time (ie #3 first) and try to one broach one bearing at a time because that is all it may have needed. I still would have liked to seen the results with the cam installed after only broaching one bearing to see.

[@richardcranium5839]

with the crank grinder i'd have been tempted to "dust off" those journals on the cam. thing is is the line bore straight? need straight bar with blanks on the ends to hold it and test fittings to push through. had a pontiac block once the front journal was bored .010 too high. cam would go in but wouldnt turn. used a crude straight edge to find it. no machine shop wanted to touch it.

[@The_Kman]

I always enjoy you videos. Keep it up guys!

[@stephenkrueger5382]

Now you gotta make up from tool steel and stamp them and send um to flame harden

[@InquisitiveSearcher]

Remember to stamp the measurements into the end of those tools. 😉

[@The_Kman]

The cleaning guy has experience on his side. Never assume anything.

[@pauljanssen7594]

I probably uncertain engines spent more time with the cam bearing tool carving out the cam bearings and wants to can fit then I would polish them out by hand.

[@manwithouteyes]

I never thought to use a sit/stand desk in my shop. Now I think I will.

[@JAMSIONLINE]

Great sale going on this weekend! Be sure to check out their link in the description 🤘

[@dennismirante9528]

I love these videos and can't wait to see the next one!

[@jamesspallinger938]

Chrysler cam bearings always need slightly reamed for final fit as crush fitted/pressed in bearings lose some size maybe .0005" I have used an old cam and just made a cut across each journel and turned it in slow.

[@someoneoranother7517]

Ive taken an old cam Ground groves in it, and turned it in the baring. Thats the old school nailhead way of doing it i guess. your way is probably better, if you have the ability to do it that way.

[@jcslocum]

Excellent content guys. I really enjoy this technical stuff. Keep up the good work.

[@jamesgleeson1050]

As a teenager, I got into automotive machining. When we got a tight cam bearing, we’d take a steel coat hanger, straighten it out, bend one end into a loop, and wrap a piece of steel wool around the loop. Using an electric drill, spinning the steel wool around inside the cam bearing in five second spurts would loosen the bearing right up. Voila!

[@horsepower711]

Just kinda curious but it seems like it would be a lot easier to chuck the cam in a lathe and using a crankshaft polishing setup polish the cam itself enough to get the proper clearance? Just might be a real stroke of luck that with a little run time and wear it just might work with a new cam if you're replacing the current one for a bit more power.

[@peteormond2828]

Bumped into this video and given the amount of work & $$$ you guys have put into the block, I'm surprised you didn't thoroughly deburr the sharp edges and casting flashes that ALL racing blocks go through to stop cracking points & stress risers - before machining. Doing it after all that expensive machining would be asking for trouble by possibly ruining all that work you've put into the block.

[@EngineRehab]

The whole block got deburred be me off camera.

[@SeanJoseph-s2s]

Nice job on the brunshing tool ....good content and thanks 🔧👍

[@Fordcertian]

Always good stuff!

[@Joe___R]

It doesn't make any sense to me as to why that janitor keeps using his phone instead of a flashlight. Just keep a penlight in your shirt pocket, and it will be just as convenient to grab. A small flashlight is brighter, more durable, and just easier to use single-handedly. I always carry a Streamlight stylus pro.

[@icetech6]

Such a beautiful block design :) K.. that hydraulic bearing tool is awesome, i didn't know bout that

[@fishin11]

I’m not here to contradict ANYONE or tell them what or how to do something!! I did work in engine rebuild and rebuilt quite a few engines in my life. I’m just surprised you didn’t have the block line bored. We line bored EVERY block that came in. Technically speaking, the cam fits now, but again technically the bearings are not lined up ‘perfectly’ or centered with each other. Which means the cam will have a wear point off center on a couple journals.

[@fluffyfullbox2075]

You should put them in the freezer. So they go in easier and don't gaule. Also deburr the block by rounding the corners.

[@erichill5208]

I see y’all have a box there for comp cams. I have rebuilt a lot of engines and installed a lot of new cams. I tried comp cams once. It was the only can I ever had fail. It happened at 1100 miles. 5 lobes gone completely round. Never trusted them again. I did like how good it performed while it was ok. But just didn’t last. I did nothing different with it than any other cam and it was the only one to fail Good luck. But I have like your series about this build

[@danharlan80]

If the puller bar is long enouth, just make spackers for between the swedges and pull them all at the same time

[@toddw.9845]

That tool is called Whiskey~

[@dorightal4965]

ABomb 79 would be green with envy!

[@user-pk2fg8im4u]

Very cool video and brainstorming. Lots better than making a jig out of used rodweeder rod. Ask me how I know.

[@normangallant9879]

Good job