Recapping the LC575 Mystic Motherboard with OS-CON Capacitors

[@StephenArsenault]

Thank you for making this series, James! This will be the new gold standard for anyone who wants to follow along. I'm looking forward to the next video!

[@JDW-]

Thank you for your very kind words, Stephen! And a huge thank you again for sending that cute little happy Mac pin to me! All the filming for my next video has been done and I will start editing this evening after work, aiming for a weekend release.

[@MacEffects88]

Awesome video to enjoy on Thanksgiving - Thanks JDW :)

[@JDW-]

Thank you, Mark! Enjoy that turkey! :-)

[@santospoland]

What a lovely little bored. It's so pretty up close … and those caps are so cool! I love all the post work detail and review, Great!

[@JDW-]

Thank you for your kind words, Alex!

[@amirpourghoureiyan1637]

Great job, nice wallpaper at the end!

[@JDW-]

Thank you, Amir!

[@DavidStahlOLDHAPPyMACs]

JWD Great Job Good info Curious to see what is being made overclocking should be neat to to watch

[@JDW-]

That too will be another Kay Koba device, using his Spicy O'Clock overclocker!

[@Fred_Raimer]

Very nice, James - I especially enjoyed the musical accompaniment

[@JDW-]

Thank you, Fredrick!

[@JorgeRuizGonzalez]

Congratulations. You have made a fantastic video showing in great detail how to desolder and solder SMD capacitors. Having the right tool is critical... trying to do the same thing with a regular soldering iron means risking messing up a pad. Others claim that you can use "brute force" and pull capacitors,... or even turn them to remove. Much better and safe is that tweezer-shaped soldering iron that applies heat to both pins at the same time.

[@JDW-]

I wholeheartedly agree about the use of hot tweezers. And while some people have success by twisting off the SMD capacitors, I myself much prefer the tweezers because I can safely remove the capacitors all the time. The biggest problem with removal methods which destroy the capacitors is that you cannot later measure their ESR. Some people don’t care about that, but I do.

[@santospoland]

on the iMac bake. Not sure but mine is probably on its 6th month. GPU still works. Keep fans going though. Works very well!

[@JDW-]

Glad to hear it! Hopefully you get the same or longer 2 years and 9 months that I got from my 2nd bake. A number of people have commented under my bake videos to say they have gotten more than 2 years, so reasonable longevity can be achieved for a good number of people.

[@SAerror1]

Have you tried some different soldering iron tips to see which one you like best? It looks like you are using a tiny bevel tip in the video but the flat surface often ends up pointing away from what you're soldering... I do most of my soldering with a pretty big chisel tip to get good fast heat transfer, swapping to a long bevel tip for finer work. I wonder if that board was recapped earlier in its life since it had those mask repairs and almost no signs of capacitor juice? I also bought a tiny vacuum suction pen so that i can hold on to the smd parts while soldering one side at a time. It really helped me align tiny parts better :)

[@JDW-]

I thought it might have been recapped in the past, but the thing is, that scratch extends underneath the SIMM sockets! Why would they have removed the SIMM sockets, only to scratch the board and then repair it with UV solder mask? Removing those sockets is very hard to do, so I am not sure when or where that scratch occurred. But at the same time, it doesn't make much sense that it was done at the factory either. Would Apple have shipped it like that? It's a real mystery! As to the tips, that is just the standard Hakko tip that I use for everything. It's not too large or too small. It's just right for most soldering applications. As such, I've not tried varying the tips except on my tweezers. What you see in my video are the smaller tips that came with the kit. It also has some wider tips so I can desolder an entire SMD IC at once.

[@ruddymyers4244]

Can you tell me how much vault is this capacitors 47-10s-3mn

[@JDW-]

I assume vault = voltage in your question. My guess is 47uF 10V but I really need to see a photo of the top markings to know for sure.