Jeep Oil Pressure Sending Unit Replacement | Jeep J10 Build

[@OutJeeping]

OPENROAD 10% OFF DISCOUNT CODE "OUTJEEPING" Use code at check out at openroad4wd.com/

[@joeym2675]

Can you do a video on how you did away with the catalytic converter on your silver XJ along with the heat shield you made. I’d like to get rid of the the cat on my XJ but need to know what you used to replace it! And would like to make a heat shield also. Really appreciate all you instructional videos, they’ve helped me a lot along the way! Thanks!

[@VINNY5674]

It's winter here been below 20 My 1995 ZJ 4.0 52,000 miles On cold start up oil pressure hits 80 idles hard till warned up is that normal? Only owned it since August last year..

[@OutJeeping]

It's most likely a bad sending unit reading wrong. On my 4.0L I've had the same issue when it was cold. But normally in the winter it will read a little higher on first start up then slowly go down a bit as the oil warms up. 80psi is way to high indicating that the sending unit is bad.

[@r.j.schubert9222]

Another great video Austin. Can't wait for you to test out the winch.

[@michelantoniomorin2201]

🙌 that winch is awesome Austin

[@YesSir34]

It’s grounded through the block, Teflon tape might affect the ground.

[@danhambrick6331]

Nice job Austin 👍👍

[@gasperajdnik5627]

Yes sir good work 👍🤝

[@brandydobie2722]

I love watching all your amazing videos!!! You really need to look into P-R-O-M-O-S-M!

[@Skiridr22]

I want to see the installation

[@toller7544]

Did your fuel and temp gauges work OK? I have a 1977 J10 with a 360 and none of my gauges work. I should point out that they removed the electric oil gauge wiring and went to a manual oil gauge. So far my testing leads me to believe i need to install an oil pressure sending unit to complete the circlet. Driving me nuts and I know it a short drive cause I own a Jeep.

[@OutJeeping]

When I got my Jeep none of the gauges actually worked. I replaced the temp sensor and the oil sending unit and got those working again. My speedometer is locked up internally and the cable is disconnected for now. I diagnosed the fuel gauge to a bad sending unit in the tank. My Amp gauge won't work since I routed my alternator differently. So it could be possible all of your sensors and sending units are shot like mine, but it could also be a bad ignition wire to the instrument cluster. Depending on if you want to keep the manual gauge, you would need to run an oil line to the back of the manual gauge. Otherwise if the wiring is still there you can hook up the electronic gauge.

[@toller7544]

@@OutJeeping Thanks. I need to replace( I think they might have cut it) the oil pressure circuit and add a sending unit and see what I get.

[@yafois988]

The gauge cluster in these have a converter behind one of the gauges that reduces 12v to 5v, I Think. It might have failed somehow. Do an online search and a few ppl go over this giving several good ideas what might be occurring. And yes make sure sensors and tank sender are good. My 76, these is a pink wire at the firewall connection, that went from fuel tank sensor to the gauge cluster. Check its continuity from tank sensor to up to back of cluster. Need a DVM and clean all contact points from any corrosions. There is a chart online you can find showing the fuel sender resistance fuel/empty, to the cluster. Should be 0 = empty, 90 = full of fuel. It's I believe ] the same as a GM Truck model.

[@toller7544]

@@yafois988 Thanks I did find that converter and it has continuity throw it but I don't know where to find another one. All the gauges will move if current is applied and I have checked continuity to my sending units and checked function of all but the temperature and it is the next to be changed out.