you were right, we were wrong! (the WORST lumber ever)

[@kevinsatter9375]

Just a hint…….always cut your lumber to rough length before milling. You will be much more effective with your jointer and you will have much less waste……more useable lumber……less wear on the jointer blades.

[@jennieanddavis]

Where were all you guys with this suggestion when hundreds of people didn't understand why we cut our cutting board stock to length before milling?! Hahaha thanks for the suggestions, everyone!

[@jonreeves3993]

it never helps to start by yelling at the dealer and accusing them of ripping you off. glad you showed the classy way of talking through your problems with your dealer.

[@blandmccartha]

DANGER. I watched you jointing those long boards on the face and edge without using paddles. Jennie was pushing the boards against the fence when jointing the edge and Davis was pushing the boards over the cutter head when jointing the face. It is very rare, but if the board kicks back, it can shoot the board an amazing distance at an unbelievable speed and pull your fingers into the cutter head. I have two fingers that are now 1/2" shorter. After a year, they still hurt. If I had been using paddles, I would still have my fingers. That was the only time I have ever jointed without using paddles. I just needed to make one more light pass, and the paddles were too far away to reach conveniently. A momentary lapse in safety rules can change your life forever.

[@Pauken11]

You guys should be using a canister filter on your DC instead of the cloth bag. It’s releasing dust right at breathing height into your shop. Upgrading to a canister filter will also make a noticeable improvement in your suction. Check out Wynn Environmental for a Merv15 filter that will fit your unit. They’re very helpful and have easy hardware to make the change simple.

[@ryandury]

1000%

[@doubledarefan]

Also a cyclone, so the filter is not doing all the work.

[@Zamboni-0805]

I may be wrong, but I was always taught that you should let hardwood acclimate to your shop. At least a few days up to 2 weeks before milling it. Hope these don't twist before you finish the table.

[@Zamboni-0805]

@@StanHaynes77 That's what I meant to say..."cupping"...not "twisting" Thanks for your response.

[@b767greg]

Love your channel! I love to see young kids like you all in the woodworking business! I am a 35 plus year woodworker and former Air Force HC-130 Rescue Aircraft Commander. Just remember, there are MANY opinions on how to do things in the woodworking business, and you will receive many, as I am sure you have! Pick the ones that work for you all and just thank those that you don't use. Oh and definitely ignore the trolls and the ones that come across rude and arrogant! Thank you for your service! Fly safe and tailwinds you two!

[@georgewoodoftexas3509]

As a sawmiller and wood dryer I can tell you what you already have figured out. That looking at lumber from the sawmill does not show you a lot of imperfections that WILL show up when you plan the lumber down to a smooth surface. You are right this was not quality lumber and should be taken back to supplier.

[@saterialewoodworking]

I'm glad they stood behind the material, a few things that cause those cracks are wind shake or improper drying in the kiln. Drying the lumber too fast can cause internal stresses. I made this mistake once, and oddly enough, it was with white oak. Lesson learned for sure, now you know what to look for.

[@bjgieseke]

Thank you for sharing this - Even though things go wrong, you don’t pass blame, you just figure out how to make it right and move forward. And you both seem to keep a positive attitude through the whole process. It’s refreshing. Keep up the good work!

[@dougprentice1363]

You should look into buying a quality canister filter for the dust collector.

[@hwaynes]

Not a good idea to use wide boards as they stand a chance of cupping later on... Best to rip them and glue them back together...

[@opawerks6242]

Curious if you checked the moisture content before milling or acclimation to your shop. Even if kiln-dried, there may be more bowing and cupping that occurs and if the boards are glued together, the entire tabletop could wind up warping and even splitting as a result.

[@bobwadsworth4799]

I was thinking the same thing.

[@chriscampbell1456]

I agree. I won't even touch a board in my shop until it acclimated for at least a month or two. Even then, I check it with my moisture meter before milling it.

[@prodigalpilot]

Curious your justification for milling the boards at full dimension? I have found that cutting parts to rough dimension prior to milling drastically reduces waste as well as fatigue. Most often, i do a quick skip-plane to see the grain and layout my parts before rough cutting to size and final milling. If your answer is simply efficiency, getting the milling out of the way and moving on, have you considered having your supplier mill the lumber for you? The nominal cost of the service is likely far less than your hourly rate and a net gain.

[@jennieanddavis]

Don't really have a justification - just learning through the whole process. We'll probably outsource the milling in the future, but milling it ourselves the first few go-rounds will teach us what to look for to maintain standards.

[@LiqdPT]

It's a 9ft table. They're 10 ft boards. They're not far off rough length for the top as is

[@prodigalpilot]

@@LiqdPT agree for the top boards, appears they did the same for all boards including smaller parts for the base. My comments were not criticism, but was curious if they had a reason for the choice. Choices I make are different than that of a production shop that they are trying to model.

[@leemyrick8549]

They milled all the boards to see what boards they wanted for the top. The rest will be further cut/milled as neccessary for the base.

[@prodigalpilot]

@@leemyrick8549 WHich is why i suggested skip-planing all of the boards to lay out parts. Again, it is absolutely not incorrect to go ahead and mill everything, but it does waste more material, particularly on twisted and warped boards. It is only my opinion that cutting to rough size prior to milling is better, does not make it fact.

[@8thsinner]

Glad to see you came to your senses and challenged things. Nice to see your supplier in fact has some integrity too.

[@oldschoolsmart]

Not sure of the length of your boards, and the table end result you're working towards, but cutting to rough length before jointing reduces waste and lessens the amount of "banana"ing you need to remove, while providing a wider board ultimately.

[@jennieanddavis]

Totally! That's exactly why we cut our rough cutting board stock to length before milling. This tabletop is going to be 9 feet long, and we had 10 foot lumber - not a ton of wiggle room!

[@leemyrick8549]

They are at rough length for a 9 foot tabletop. After glue-up there is only about 6 inches on each end to cut off to actual size. As for the width they will go thru and sort the tabletop boards for grain-match/grain figure and to reduce the amount of waste.

[@chriscampbell1456]

Might I recommend either cutting your boards to rough length before milling. It makes them easier to handle and saves material because shorter length usually don't need milled as much to get flat. Or if you need to mill long boards, use a few foldable roller stands at both the infeed and outfeed. Use a straight edge to make sure they are level with the table respective to whatever side it is (infeed or outfeed). You need to upgrade that dust collector to a cyclone like your Laguna for efficiency as well as health reasons. Personally, I think your boards are too "green" to your shop and aren't acclimated yet. I won't use a board unless it's been in my shop at least a month or 2 so it can acclimate. Then, I still check it with a moisture meter to make sure it's ready. Remember, wood is a living thing and will tell you if it's not ready to use.....with a nice big warp when you try to mill it. Me: Let's build this thing! Lumber: UMMM , how about NOOO! Haha...rejected....LOL. :)

[@bryanknitter8858]

You should really get some sort of separator for the DC on your planer. Those bags are a giant pain to change, a separator would make the process 100x easier.

[@jennieanddavis]

Baby steps... a couple more sales and we can upgrade the entire shop's system!

[@LorenTrotter]

You may already know this but there are several ways lumber is sawn. In addition to grades you might want to consider quarter sawn vs. rift sawn vs. plain sawn. For oak projects I usually like a mix of quarter sawn and rift sawn. Also, quarter and rift sawn are usually more stable.

[@robertwehmeyer9684]

You might check with your supplier and see if they offer the option (at a cost) to put 1 stright edege on your boards. My supplier has a strightline ripsaw and for me it's more cost and time effective to have them do it. They also offer surfacing 1 face or surface to thickness. You can check with them on cost to see if it might or might not be worthwhile. I only do 1 stright edege. I don't know what finish you plan to use but when laying your boards out for your top you might try using a spray bottle of alcohol. Pick the grain pattern layout you think looks good but the boards togther as they will be on the table and lightly spray them with the alcohol or any solvent that will evaporate off. It will better show the color of the boards and show if the boards will take the finish about the same. This is also good to do after all the gluing and finish sanding is done to see if any glue is still there on the surface (if you have done some type of patch it will also show how good or bad it is) Dont soak the boards just a light spray and be sure all of what ever you use has evaporated off before finishing. It's better then starting to finish and then finding bad spots. Hope this helps. RCW

[@josemontezuma2548]

It is not a hard and fast rule but for milling of wood that you will join together you should ONLY mill up what you will use that day. It reduces the risk of cupping and warping

[@ACNailedIt]

My takeaway from this was "before you blame others, look at yourself first". Great mindset 💪💪

[@minimateur]

That's one of the worst type of cracks, unless you're into epoxy and stuff.. Glad you were able to replace them..

[@glennryzebol4472]

sounds like your dealer are good folks to deal with. Glad they took care of you. Good call using that track saw to rough joint the edge

[@Wrenchen-with-Darren]

Boards with "shake" are hard to use for anything. Cracks caused by high winds.

[@jcpallitto]

Glad you were able to return and replace the wood. Don't forget that after you freshly cut wood, you need to cover it with a plastic sheet and a moving blanket to prevent warpage when you are not working with it until it has been treated.

[@jennieanddavis]

Does it need warm milk and a bedtime story, too?

[@jcpallitto]

@@jennieanddavis no but a white noise machine helps

[@Ross-re2up]

suggestion - make your sawdust into firebricks to sell from your company locally.

[@treygibson9359]

I LOVE the "cut" jokes near the end Jenny. I would've given my wife a high five for those....get in gear Davis! On another note, with the size and widths of that table, breadboard ends would really help keep it flat for all of eternity, but that would add a lot of time in. I agree with the guy below, try using a spring joint when joining these boards. I'd also use dowels to help keep the boards in alignment and will aid in preventing slip so you won't need as many cauls to clamp it flat. I haven't spring jointed a panel this wide, but if you do, maybe do it two boards at a time and then do one final glue up of 2 or 3 joints (depending on your board widths). If you do that you'll have less change for overall slip while clamping. I just built a 8' x 36" table for my house out of cheap pine from HD. I didn't dowel because I was in a hurry. I wish I had because hand planing and sanding after the glue-up took me a few days. I went lazy on it just to get it done and I probably would have saved me an entire work day had I just done it right to begin with.

[@mishellekochel4510]

Have watched MANY of your videos but made it official and subscribed tonight due to 731 Woodworking. Wishing you the best and praying for your safety. Thank you both for your service. 🇺🇸

[@jennieanddavis]

Thanks so much, Mishelle! It was a lot of fun - thanks for your support!

[@godmello]

I really love watching you two. So much inspiration.

[@RockhollowCNCServices]

Clearly not firsts or seconds. That would never leave our shop.

[@timfletcher7870]

Can you not go and choose your own boards? I take forever to pick my own from the rack.

[@jennieanddavis]

Hi Tim, we don't have the luxury of time since we're cutting into our profit margin - our time is more expensive than a few extra pieces of lumber to make up for the bad ones (except in this case lol)

[@Sembazuru]

Something you might want to stress to the audience here and to the studstack is something that both my wife and I believe (as consumers). The measure of a company's customer service isn't so much how they act when everything goes right, but how they act when things go wrong. I know you guys also believe this based on how you handled your customer who (obviously upon review) mishandled the cutting board. But it's also important how the company handles things when it isn't the customer's fault. No customer wants to be falsely accused of causing the issue, they just want things to be set right and prevented from happening again.

[@tomlennie8538]

What everyone else said! However, find yourself a good sawyer and ask them to straight line one side, also surface sand one or both sides. It will likely cost a little more, but with your business model you will save time and labor of extensive milling. Just don't buy from a big box stores. I have idled my woodworking hobby for sometime now due to health but when we was going full steam I met with the owner of the saw mill, he gave me an unrequested tour of the mill. Then back to his office and entered me into the customer system. Long story short, by creating a relationship with the manager I secured my oak at a cost of about 2.00 bf and straight lined for an extra 1.15 per board wasn't a bad price for oak when my local mill wanted a little more than 5.00 a bf rough cut. I think it would be worth your trouble to have the mill do the initial milling for you. One caveat though, I bought random lengths and widths with nothing under 4 " wide and lengths no less than 4' wide and as much as 5' long. I made a ton of furniture with that Lumber but I preferred pine because I could throw away my mistakes or use that mistake in another project.

[@mikeplacko8135]

I've done the track saw trick too on a really curvy board, good call.

[@jimmylovesbikes]

Making a beefy solid hardwood kitchen table is on my bucket list. Thanks for sharing your journey!

[@dsahouston5198]

You guys are great. Thanks for sharing what you've learned. I learned a lot watching. And apparently when you admit a mistake on KZbin it opens up a suggestion floodgate. Looking forward to seeing the finished product!

[@randyvandeusen5600]

Glad you sent it back and your lumber supplier made it right.

[@randyvandeusen5600]

Yeah I watched the whole video and edited my comment. Thanks for keeping an eye on me though ✌️

[@TheBoardWoodworker]

I always try to hand pick all my pcs unless it is for cutting boards due to you can hide some defects

[@parkersoutherland285]

If you plan to use white oak for more of your builds: know that white oak is notoriously bad about internal checking (the rough surface is fine but as soon as you begin milling you reveal checks and cracks). This is almost always a fault of improper drying in a kiln or air drying. Other wood species don’t have this specific problem as much so just watch out for it when using white oak

[@cheno35]

New subscriber all the way from Mexico. I myself am dedicated in the business of carpentry and upholstery, we do use oak but it has to be imported due to the reason that it's not common to find around where I'm from, in these area as well as most of states of Mexico we use Red Cedar, considered one of the "best eficient and good looking wood" here in my country, it's one of the most expensive but worth the price for the years of use you will get for the piece of furniture, also knowing that we use most likely good quality woods because down in the south we have a big problem with termites and humidity in some areas, thats why a lot of people have a really bad experience with MDF and aglomerate chipboard retail furniture. Greetings 👏🏽

[@frenchriversprings]

I know you guys are not ready for this but in the future when you get a European style 10 foot sliding table saw, you will never use your track saw again and never use your jointer to joint the edges of your lumber. I recommend Felder or Martin or Altendorf.

[@LiqdPT]

Those sliding table saws are not at all common in north america. I don't know that I've EVER seen one, and my dad sold power tools.

[@frenchriversprings]

I live in Ontario Canada. Not common at all here either. But I was still able to buy one. There is a Felder dealership 4 hours away. I bought the Felder K700 S. I will never ever go back to a traditional cabinet saw. When I get old and frail and only want to build small stuff such as bird house, I will still use a sliding table saw. But maybe a 6 foot instead of 10 foot.

[@LiqdPT]

@@frenchriversprings huh. I grew up in BC.

[@frenchriversprings]

Cool 😎

[@terrydote1335]

Got an mini max with an 8’ slide. Awesome machine don’t know how I lived without it!

[@rodpotts2666]

When are we going to upgrade that DC filter. I finally did it and what a difference it made . Lot less dust floating around and the suction is way better. Can’t wait to see this table . It’s going to be beautiful. Love white oak.

[@andrewwhelan2669]

You might want to look into a couple of roller stands. You could use them on either side of the jointer and planer.

[@Packerfan-qc6cs]

Nice job as always, you two are so down to earth, i love how you share your journey

[@RVAHokie]

Ditto all the comments on moisture and acclimation. On fairly small things like cutting boards its a little less crucial but with very big objects like a tabletop which need to remain flush, trim, and darn near perfectly flat all that extra surface area means it is easier for the wood to get out of shape if not acclimated before gluing. I've heard that wood species seems to matter a good bit also; cypress is pretty sensitive in my experience. Maybe others with more furniture experience could comment on woods like oak, maple, and cherry?

[@BradsWorkbench]

If u start doing more tables as u grow a rip saw is a HUGE time saver in the milling process

[@mikesmith2102]

The way to save a badly cracked board is to fill the cracks with epoxy. Any of the countertop epoxies will work, Total Boat, Stone Coat, West System. Epoxy mills like wood. Mix up some epoxy and spread it across the entire board using a plastic scarper or something flat. Work it into the cracks and let it dry. Then run the board through the planer to get rid of the epoxy on the board face. You can even add some color to the epoxy as a highlight.

[@christopherleenknecht920]

I am glad you were able to get your bad lumber replaced from the dealer . Looking great so far 🙂👍👍

[@mbrittenham]

Great insight and really appreciate you unpacking the gory details.

[@davidcerce]

Did you look at the lumber before you agreed to purchase it?

[@lorenbecker9694]

I live in Wisconsin and we have a lot of people that own there own sawmills and even kilns we also have our share of trees for making lumber. My point being purchasing lumber from individuals instead of lumber buyers will save you a lot of money, of course you will have to study up a little on lumber grade’s so you know what you are getting but worth the efforts. I find my lumber supplier on Facebook Marketplace buy doing a search for lumber in my area. I find these people sell at a much lower price just to make a few bucks. I don’t know what Texas has to offer as far as this type of lumber buying goes but thought I would put the idea out there🤔. One more thing you may want to invest in a moisture meter, very handy to have for checking the moisture content of your wood plus relatively inexpensive.

[@lancem5965]

Same in Vermont it seems weird to have to go to a lumber dealer.

[@lorenbecker9694]

Upper Midwest and New England states we have a lot of lumber. But I am sure that doesn’t apply to other parts of the country. Advantage us!!!!

[@rudyswoodwork7236]

I always pick the wood .. I don’t just order over phone .. I like what I see I get it if not I pass .. I always pick the best wood for my clients ..

[@cindyhammack68]

I have this lady at my lumber yard that I trust. She's never sent me anything that I wouldn't pick out myself. Just need to find that one person that you trust and order only from them. Trust me, they love repeat business. My lumber yard gives the sales person a little commission if it's some expensive exotic or a lot at one time like, cedar fencing.

[@ronin2963]

This looks like it could have been three different videos. One the buying 8/4 board, one on Red Oak vs White Oak, one on the puppy, another your equipment, and finally why does it take two house to pick up a track saw? Maybe not the last one.

[@neilredway1573]

Great they took it back without hesitation, but still dubious on their own processes for them to have not spotted it themselves and then additionally for them to have provided a couple of Red oak boards by mistake.

[@jennieanddavis]

I guess they were just in the pile of 'white oak' from the mill... Can't expect them to inspect every single board through their store with a magnifying glass

[@billgreen4592]

Hey Davis, I highly suggest that you not stand directly behind the plainer. Kick back is rare but does happen and judging that your machine is crotch high, I doubt that you would be happy with the result.

[@jennieanddavis]

If we avoided all dangers that unlikely, we’d never leave the house

[@billgreen4592]

@@jennieanddavis Well it is a cheap way to get a vasectomy, best of luck.

[@mharris81677]

Agreed. I've had one kick back on me and got lucky - hit the inside of my thigh. Left a deep bruise that lasted weeks and was painful enough to keep me out of the shop for almost a week. If I'd been standing an inch or two to the right...I don't even want to think about that pain.

[@philjohnwilliams]

@@jennieanddavis but seeing how avoiding danger in this case is as simple as one step to the side seems silly not to.

[@josemontezuma2548]

@@jennieanddavis LOL change the height of your planer getting hit in the stomach is far better that lower

[@frankbelli1401]

Wow that looks really cool!! Now how much do you charge for a board like that?

[@rossfelton1955]

P.S. firsts and seconds, clear. No knots. No cracks, checks, or splits. No spalting, mold. No worm or beatle holes. No edge wood. No punk or rot. Ideally, quarter sawn. No warp, bow, or twist. Strait flat boards. Check them.

[@DanielCShomo-wo5zh]

Love your honest vids, not sure if you know this, but Makita also makes a larger cordless tracksaw XSH10Z. 9 1/4'', it looks like the more common ones, bad dust collection. I rigged up some card board on the side to help. Mostly 24 tooth blades are available. Thanks for the vids.

[@cadroncreek]

Can you give me an idea how much wood cost right now such as one of those white oak planks?

[@garyderuiter1780]

What if you fill with wood glue and use clams to get rid of the cracks

[@garyderuiter1780]

If you don’t glue it up after you milk it if there is any moisture in the board it will keep bowing or bananaing

[@markbaldwin4436]

The ULINE catalog is so cool.

[@jennieanddavis]

THE BEST

[@davidpeters8813]

I hate to say I told you so, but this is why you should pick your own lumber instead of trusting the supplier. :) Glad they got it sorted for you.

[@fredleb7257]

I am a furniture maker. Seems look like a funny way to do it. To have a stable/quality table you must split finished pieces of 6 inches max and alternate the direction of the rays of the wood. If you split the raw wood at first you will be able to remove the banana effect. Thereafter you will be able to pass the pieces on the jointer and the planer to have faces really at 90 degrees. I hope it can help you. I really like your content 😜 sorry for my english im french canadien

[@johnny207]

The chap in these vids seems really genuine, however his Mrs Jenny want’s an Oscar every piece to cameras.

[@jeffreygibbs3524]

It's wind shatter. The tree stood dead for to long and the wind caused vibration that caused those cracks.

[@marcuskolloen9214]

You guys should look at a sliding table saw. With a 10 ‘ slider you can straight line rip all your lumber before jointing and also cut your whole table to size after glue up. Also much better for working with plywood if you do that a lot. Just a thought :)

[@TheMoonlightCraftsman]

I was wondering how you were going to fix a crack all the way down the board

[@cindyhammack68]

Probably could have ripped it down and used part of it for the skirt or a leg...

[@MichaelViewing]

Just out of curiosity, which dealer do yall use? Does it follow a city hardwood theme or rhyme with barks?

[@michaelc5369]

Case hardening, supplier was probably drying it too fast

[@enzprintco.8625]

Exactly!

[@joelw6215]

Y’all look so cute with your matching glasses.

[@jennieanddavis]

🤩

[@dwighttrumbower164]

Find a wood supplier that uses vacuum kiln drying. Quicker, straighter, and almost crackless.

[@matthewscott1606]

Would you be willing to tell me where you get the boxes you ship the cutting boards?

[@stephensparks3621]

The oak looks to be not dried properly.

[@keithf5236]

where are ya'll typically buying your oak in houston? I don't have a joiner or planer so I'll need to buy S2S is at all possible but most place inside the beltway are crazy for the board foot or linear foot price.

[@neilhillman6130]

It could be the lumber was 1 dead standing 2 air dried to long before it was put in the kiln 3 after it was dried it was placed in an area with a high moisture and 4 all of the above..

[@watchnlearn2731]

Return all of it. It is improperly dried wood and it’s case hardened. This wood is worthless except for firewood. Plus white oak is not red oak. Wood does not tend to mend itself on the way home from the lumber store. Look at the end Fran of the wood and you will see just how bad it is. And smell the wood that is a dead giveaway. If it has a wet woody smell it is going to be punky. PS. It your wood to rough lengths before you join the edges. I may not know what I’m talking about I’ve only been doing this for 40 years which probably longer than either of you have been alive

[@juanalonso5037]

Nice!! Does the puppy have ear protection for the noises? That table its going to be great!

[@MrDmorgan52]

I noticed that too. Dogs ears were laid back like he didn't like that high pitch sound. Maybe put him in the office when running equipment?

[@jtw131a]

You guys need to install a second stage into your dust collector.

[@thegentlemanswoodshop7601]

I think, that cracking is called honeycombing. It’s created by drying to fast.

[@cfunk378]

It looks like it was old rotten wood. I would find a good local sawmill and pick my of wood. You may say I don't have time for that, but you'll be sure you don't get checked wood and you won't get delayed running back to a lumber yard. Sawmills that cut and dry their own lumber usually have better prices as well. Just saying.

[@hbsmart]

Check out a “glue line rip” saw blade I use it when working with big wood… saves me the heaving and hoving on the jointer..

[@confer01]

I spent the morning at one of my sources for lumber and they disagreed on the price of white oak being "high," now region by region prices will vary. I picked up a couple of really nice white oak pieces of what they referred to as off cuts, example a corner edge was missing. Price almost half regular price. It is one reason, I establish a good relationship with the guys in the store. Keep going, you will pick up these tricks. If possible skip the middle man and go directly to the mill. My primarily source has his own kiln and saw, most of what I get is rough cut but at half what I would pay if I purchased from a hardwood lumber yard

[@tonykitching5810]

you guys need a couple of roller support stands ! great job by the way.

[@josemontezuma2548]

First off you have to learn all about the lumber you will be using and Never accept crap wood. We used to use red oak #2 because we converted it all into sticks for making face framing etc as well as stair treads and molding. I milled up 4 lifts of oak and converted it into sticks mostly for molding for a large job we were doing. The oak looked fine , milled oak, cut into sticks on the table saw ok. When I started running it thru the shaper, it started to explode and drove the autofeeds way out. I tried pieces from other piles I had milled and the same result. The problem was microcracking. Very difficult to see and account for. The company we bought from had to replace all of it. We could not even risk using it for face framing because we considered it to be unreliable. The problem did stem from how it was kiln dried

[@MattWallaceTech]

Sick Bucees shirt Davis haha

[@AlainPilon]

You cannot identify white and red oak based on their color. You have to look at the end grain. Google.

[@fishstalkeradventures1446]

Hi I was just wondering if all of the information for the My Basement Business was all in videos or all in writing or half half Thanks👍😝

[@kevinb6102]

Part 2 coming for this table ?

[@joewilliams8392]

Not sure I can like this after seeing a Dallas Cowboy's cup.

[@Tom-kz2ty]

Did your gross profits outweighs all your cost in 2021? By how much? Are you guys growing your business through an insane amount of debt?

[@malcolmgregoire1019]

I like your idea, but I don't have a basement.

[@jennieanddavis]

Then you’re doomed. 😂

[@Powerstroke7911]

My wife and I have a new small “Maker” business. I’m having a hard time trying to find a reputable somewhat local source for hardwood. Building suppliers and “big box” stores are no help….Any tips? We’re located in Eastern NC.

[@jennieanddavis]

There are TONS of hardwood dealers, mills, and suppliers around you. Google for a hardwood dealer (not a flooring company, but a hardwood lumber dealer).

[@timdyck8492]

So u didn’t mention anything about the red oak after going back ,u didn’t do moisture level or acclimate your wood ,I know it’s exciting to get building but it’s gotta be done right or it going to fail 🤷‍♂️ u don’t want that ,but it’s good lessons 👍

[@redtop03]

Clearly that wood was not adequate for the intended project, however, with all that seasoned checking in that wood, it would make a very nice, colored epoxy pour project, I'd save it for something later.

[@miguelmatos4320]

Hey about your course.. i have thought about it but because i already have a business for a year, a lit of the course doesn’t apply. Maybe one day you could make one more focused on establishing sales strategies, stock management, brandplacement and creating structures able to grow.

[@jennieanddavis]

YES! Miguel, thank you for the feedback. In the next several weeks we'll be releasing a NEW advanced sales program, a new advanced marketing program, and a new Business Mindset program! Hopefully those are more useful to you!

[@miguelmatos4320]

@@jennieanddavis amazing! Thanks so much!

[@KirkAllmond]

With that much case hardening, your lumber is going to look like ramen noodles after milling and a week in your shop... If you're going to be building furniture, you need to work towards having your lumber in your shop for several months before you need it. I try to keep a year's worth of lumber on my rack.

[@brokenbranchwoodshop1873]

Are y’all using Houston Hardwoods or Clarks? Good to know who stands behind their products.

[@fspage911]

I was wondering the same thing. I lean towards Houston Hardwoods but use both.

[@ronin2963]

Great Video, but miss labeled. This is more like a how to on they sent me a substandard product. I like it, but I wouldn't have watched it based on your title. That is why I am just now getting to it one month later. P.S. Place more of your basement business adds in the how to's. Maybe make some exclusive videos on that. I am interested.

[@jessec8562]

If for some reason you can’t return wood like that it can be turned into excellent pho- barn wood

[@markgreen2770]

we live in TEXAS, we don't have basements!

[@jennieanddavis]

Then your business is doomed from the start! 😂.

[@markgreen2770]

@@jennieanddavis At least my basement business is, but I am holding out for my backyard shop.

[@cindyhammack68]

@@jennieanddavis what if you only have a 5' crawl space filled with duct and water pipes?

[@jennieanddavis]

@@cindyhammack68 a little iffy, but if you follow the program closely you should be alright! 😉😉