Simplified wedgie sled

Thank you for watching!
You can get a Sketchup model of this sled, as well as an SVG drawing for the wedgies, from my website: jerswoodshop.co...
Patreon:
/ jerschmidt

[@frankmakes]

Awesome, I may have to try this. With my sled I am limited in the width of the stock I can cut up into segments, your solution solves this problem. I really like how this sled concept is evolving.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+frank howarth Hmm, I hadn't thought about the stock width advantage. Thanks!

[@jnjarvis1]

As I was watching this video, I was thinking, this would be very helpful to Frank H. I wonder if Frank has seen this. Question answered

[@AronGreen]

* Clicks over to frank's channel, eagerly awaiting the video... *

[@joseramonvalladares5823]

Aron Green

[@bradheaton3356]

Has stock tear out at the back of the sled been a problem? Or does holding another scrap piece behind it prevent it?

[@trueleyes]

BRAVO Jeremy. Through no fault of the original inventer of the wedgie sled he, like so many other inventers, are so in tuned into what they are creating that at times they can't see the more simpler way of going about it. Then young minds like yourself come along and see the easier way right off the bat of accomplishing the same task without all the added or needed complexities. What you have just shown here seems not only workable but also very practical but as you said not being one who has spent many hours of working with this type of woodwork project you might be missing something, BUT, I don't think so. Good work Jeremy and your presentation was also very well done. I really enjoy watching you at work. Keep it up.

[@asressaraia2340]

You are a Scientist/an Artist/ and a gifted teacher all in one package. Thank you for setting the Standard so high.

[@jeffmyrashopteacher]

I have to agree 100%. I have been teaching woodworking in high school for 25 years and I'm always looking for great lessons. You put this together in a perfect way. Easy to understand. Concise. Loved it! I will be a subscriber for sure.

[@MariusHornberger]

I like that the fences are also zero clearance with the blade.

[@kaiross5410]

Er hat deine Idee nur umgeändert 😀

[@ryanlangan1060]

Great idea with the cnc. I made a sled based on the original plans and created wedges out of acrylic using a laser engraver. I really like your idea of using the wedge as the fence, because it also means that the front and back edge are always equally aligned to the edge, unlike the original plan.

[@Wintergatan]

So nice to see an idea being used the other way around like this!

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+Wintergatan Thanks!

[@drmkiwi]

You're doing a lot of thinking. Also really enjoyed the reverse of what happens usually when something is shown done with a CNC - priceless! Thanks.

[@TheDublin47]

You young man are a credit to your trade you have a very well lit up workshop and your jigs superb A am a very old carpenter but i love the way you explain things so simply The best of Irish luck to you and keep the videos coming

[@seanloughran6714]

The one made with the CNC Router was gorgeous! Great video overall!

[@MSTRGNR1]

I keep seeing comments about tear out on the closest side of the wedge cuts. I'm thinking that an additional T-track on the left side of the sled (as you're looking down on it) with a sacrificial board bolted to it behind the wood being cut using the T-tracks would solve that problem. I plan on building this sled this week. If I find tear out to be an issue, I'll try the fix. Either way, this is an awesome idea, thanks for getting it out there!!!

[@jfan4reva]

Excellent thinking! Of course you get caught in the 'Catch 22' of having to cut a very precise pattern in order to be able to cut very precise pieces. At least you only have to do it once (not counting the six tries lol!) The advantage to the two fence system is that you can go to the nearest art supply store and buy 45 and 30/60 triangles to use for set ups. As Frank H. commented, this system does have the advantage of not restricting the width of the stiock (within reason). Thanks for the video! Keep making sawdust!

[@ovidiub13]

Everybody in the WW community is: Do this like this, and like that. Jeremy: Screw that, I'll do it my way. And it turns out awesome. Great job!

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+Ovidiu-Florin BOGDAN Yeah, that is exactly my attitude! Thank you!

[@rainerzufall689]

Hmm, could you give me an example of one person that is "do it like this and like that"? Because I can't think of anyone and you even claim it is everyone.

[@williambranham6249]

you're right. It's called exageration. Humans do this all the time. See, I just did it.

[@aaronacj]

Fred said that on Apr 4th 2016 at 4:32 pm.

[@artofnoly9754]

At the risk of sounding like a nerd... math is the way to go for setting out the accurate angles (as opposed to protractor tools) for exacting projects like segmented bowls etc. I really like your presentations. Many thanx.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

Yeah, math is probably the best way to set up the angle of the wedges...

[@bobbyclement189]

Wow, Jeremy, you’re quite the machinist. It was a pleasure watching you give meticulous detail to this project. Bobby 🤗

[@Deltro61]

Brilliant! So obvious, yet you're the first to my knowledge to build a better mousetrap. I was going to build the more traditional designed sled next week when I came across your video. Of course, you need to have a CNC to make this easy, and fortunately I do! Thanks for the great video. Keep em coming.

[@gppatnude]

ABSOLUTELY BRILLIANT!! Some of the earlier comments are great. The simpler sled is also more flexible and adaptable - with some added design features, it could become the only sled you will need!!.

[@stewartmcmanus3991]

How simple, why didn't I think of that???? Well done, that's for me.

[@SuicideNeil]

Beauty in simplicity- the CNC'd wedges look like something you'd buy from a shop- I suppose if they were mass produced they might be made from plastic or aluminium, but functionally identical. Kudos for such a good design.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+SuicideNeil Thanks! I think a solid surface material like plastic or aluminum would probably be better anyway, as it would be more stable than wood. That said, this plywood is very stable.

[@jacobbrown1450]

You are a genius. I like watching all your videos.

[@Wordsnwood]

I don't even turn and I think I agree with you about this being simpler to use.

[@ildefonsogiron4034]

Thanks Jeremy! A very nice project. Maybe the main lesson to learn is that many projects require a trial and error approach.

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Very well explained and not to much talking! Well done!

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+Max Maker Thanks!

[@WoodFrontier]

Looks like it works well. I think that really the only downside to the method is that the two sides must be parallel as you mentioned.

[@williambranham6249]

Why is that a downside? If you need the jig you probably have a table saw.

[@XaeroR35]

Very nice. I love reinventing the wheel to be simpler.

[@tonybp965]

Sharp as tack, as always. Boy genius. Wish I had that head of yours.

[@anklebiterwoodworks2818]

Of all the variations op0f the wedgy sled design I have seen, his one, by far, is the one I like most. I will probably end up redoing my segmenting sled after the current projects I am working on to help make mine much more accurate. Currently, I have to do things with the half ring method of gluing half the ring together, sand the joints between the 2 ring halves and then glue the whole ring together. Thanks for sharing such useful info!

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+AnkleBiter Woodworks Thanks! I used to use the half ring method (that's how I made the bowl seen at the first of this video), but I always had to do it by hand because I didn't have any other way of straightening the mating faces... Thus this idea was born.

[@anklebiterwoodworks2818]

Cool beans!

[@Fixthisbuildthat]

Great alternative, Jeremy! I was just looking at making one and now I have some options

[@eric44707]

I just ordered a wedgie from the originator. And I was thinking of just attaching it to my sled. I thought I was on to something so I came to KZbin to see if someone beat me to it. Yup. Good job

[@dr.blackysenior8615]

Thank you very much for the clear explanation. Now I do not need to buy wedgies and can make them myself . You have always excellent ideas . You are always honest and are not aiming to sell any thing🌹

[@gilgrace1915]

Using the wedgie as the fence is just brilliant. Plus solving the problem of stock width restriction. The answer was right there in our hands and no one saw it until now. Will some enterprising CNC owner please make the wedgies from a durable material for sale in a number of angles.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+Gil Grace Thanks! I would love it if a CNC owner would start making these! My CNC just isn't quite good enough...

[@jimhester2004]

Another great idea! Incidentally, I hadn't seen a router used to make the cutout for the bolt head. I'll have to try that. Thanks for all you do.

[@mhaz49]

Neat! I bought several of the "wedgies" to set the segment angles. I can use them instead of cutting ones like you did. I think this is a brilliant design change.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+Mark Hazlewood I'm not familiar with wedgies you can buy. Where did you get them?

[@mhaz49]

Jeremy, I bought them from the SegEasy web site. The link to the sets and individual wedgies is: www.segeasy.com/toystore2.htm. They are made of a high density polyurethane and quite durable.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+Mark Hazlewood Oh ok. Those look to me like they should work fine, maybe even better than my wooden wedges.

[@Poolboy28560]

This is how I built mine. Waiting for the day I would find out “the hard way” why it isn’t done like this. The day never came! Thanks for the affirmation!

[@craftedworkshop]

Would you consider sharing the CNC file? Awesome work, man.

[@GarageWoodworks]

Nice! I want to try a segmented bowl soon and I think I'll need to implement this. Thanks!

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+GarageWoodworks Thanks, and good luck!

[@dennisnusbaum2868]

I love this. So simple and easy to use. Suggestion: Either steel sleeve in bolt holes or spline locater to keep accurate over long term use. The threads on the bolts will enlarge the plywood holes over time IMO. Hope this helps. Thanks

[@Jer_Schmidt]

Thanks! If the wedges needed to be positioned accurately then sleeves would be a good idea. But that’s the beauty of having the front & back fence in one piece: the angle of the wedge relative to the sled doesn’t matter, only the angle of the two fences *relative to each other*, and that angle is immovable.

[@UltraD52]

very clever. Hard to improve on something that works well already and is very simple. Nice job.

[@dpmakestuff]

I was just about the tackle a wedge sled. Perfect timing! I like it.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+Dustin Penner Awesome! Thanks!

[@doubledarefan]

I wood like to still see your take on it.

[@djAnakin]

Awesome explanation. I didn't get it when Frank Howarth did it with the split fences.

[@Bawdsey64]

Hi Jeremy Your comment about mitre gauge accuracy I would challenge. As the old adage states you get what you pay for and if you buy a low cost mitre gauge it will more than likely not be accurate but if you buy one from INCRA out of Dallas you can get an accurate one for reasonable money and for a little more you can get even more accuracy. That is why they sell one hell of a load of them. Your wedgie sled has some benefits and I shall make one because my saw table does not have a standard mitre slot 3/4" by 3/8", but that is because in Europe folks like Festool set their own standards. Cheers

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+Bawdsey64 You're right, a better miter gauge would be a different story. I have three of the style I showed and they are all junk, but they are all cheap ones. However, I am quite sure there is no miter gauge accurate enough to make a perfect 12-segment ring. As I said in the video, a half thousandth angle on the fence is unacceptable.

[@martinoamello3017]

Seems like a very good solution for making segmented clock faces. Thanks for the insight.

[@MintStiles]

This is a much better solution if you have a zero clearance base plate. Single guide rail reference is just much easier to set up and be consistent with.

[@haroldchoate7497]

Jeremy, I’ve missed your videos. I hope you’re well and prosperous. I look forward to seeing more of your work soon. Thank you.

[@johnnywest5445]

Great video as usual, Jeremy, I love how you explain things. Now, about that bowl at the beginning... Are we going to see a video on that? I like the design.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+Johnny West Thanks! I made that bowl quite a while ago, and I posted about it on my Instagram at the time. So you can go dig through my Instagram archives and see a little more about it.

[@JeremyMcMahan]

Genius. I wouldn't be surprised if you could sell these... I'm not a turner, but even the 45° segment wedge might be worth some coin to me!

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+Jeremy McMahan Well, I showed you how to make it! ;-)

[@JeremyMcMahan]

Yes, yes you did. And a very good description too. :-)

[@Creative-Laminated-Woodturning]

The reason the others have two fences compared to your one is in segmented work you can alter the fence angle of the two fences still using the wedge but the effect you get is a spiral rather than each angle pointing towards the center of the ring. You cant get the spiral effect with your setup, But still a good alternative. :-)

[@richardpatterson4312]

There is at least one huge disadvantage. With the wedgie sled you can scew the prices to the blade, so they aren't 90°. Doing that will give you almost the same pieces but when they glue up you'll see they spiral away from the center. You can make awesome patterns. You can still do that with your sled if you remove one pivot point.

[@ecrusch]

Thanks Jer. That is an awesome sled. I love the way you figure it out, and then can explain it in a way I can understand that makes perfect sense.

[@57hound]

I always enjoy your videos--very well thought out, filmed and explained.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+The Warped Board Thank you!

[@blumax413]

Nice job. I think to reverse the bolts you could sink large all thread nuts in the base then cut them flush with the top Then you could use the bolts to hold it down

[@Davegbuf]

Looks like you should be able to do away with the sled and attach a slider directly to a wedge. You only have one slider anyway and your wood can move on the metal surface of the table saw this eliminating concern of overhang support for the 45 degree wedges. You would need to do away with the clamps which you probably won't need.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

You are the first to suggest this! That's an interesting idea, and I think I'm gonna try it. Love the simplicity; no moving parts. I'm a bit worried that it could be harder to keep the stock against the fence, since it won't have the friction of the base to help hold it in place. But I'll try it and see how well it works. Thanks!

[@Davegbuf]

Jeremy Schmidt - I can think of a few ways to give you little more control but it's a little hard to describe. One idea would be to make the wedge maybe twice as wide while keeping your necessary side angles. This will allow for a longer slider to be attached to the bottom of the wedge and more surface area contact and weight of both items against the table saw metal surface. This should improve stability and allow you to concentrate on holding the stock piece better rather than juggling both the stock and the wedge. Next, you can cut some holes or long rounded edge slits that go parallel to the angle sides. These can give you the ability to stick your thumbs in the holes while half your palm and other fingers can serve to hold on to the stock piece more firmy against the wedge as you slide both pieces to do your cuts. Alternately, you can attach a 1" high block of wood flush with the angle sides of the wedge. This might be a little more comfortable to anchor your thumb(s) and hold the stock piece against the wedge. Also, if you design it to be removable, then you can use taller blocks for taller sock pieces. You can even remove them all together and rely on the "thumb holes" I mentioned earlier for when you are cutting thin pieces of plywood since you don't need to grip them as strongly as you would a bigger stock piece. Finally, flush strip attached to the wedge along the edges near the blade would be good for safety. This will help keep your hands and fingers from slipping off to the side and meeting the spinning blade. You can make that block even higher than the blade's highest setting. Your only using the angled edges for your cuts anyway, so that tall block along the side provides a good fence between your hands and the blade. It doesn't need to be too thick either. Half inch plywood with screws should work fine. I hope this helps. Good luck.

[@dpmakestuff]

Hey! I just downloaded the SketchUp model for this. Any chance you'd share the files you have for your CNC and save me the trouble? haha!

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+Dustin Penner Ok, I've uploaded them to the website, just below where you found the Sketchup model! You're not the first to ask for this :)

[@dpmakestuff]

Jeremy Schmidt gracias amigo!

[@rdwoodshop1373]

Just found you from a link @JaysCustonCreations Looking forward to many more of your videos. Great job explaining what you are doing and why.

[@jwrwoodworks2092]

Great video. Might have to rebuild my sled now. You also blew my mind with having the two heads on the combination square at once. Not sure if I'd ever need it, but that trick is getting stored.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+JWR Woodworks Thanks! I've gotten a ton of use out of that protractor head and I've only had it a few weeks. I definitely recommend that attachment!

[@JerryBennettArt]

Hi Jeremy, Kudos for your creativity. I am very concerned about your recommending cutting on the back side of a fence. It is not safe. As the strip gets shorter it becomes less stable. Everything depends upon the user holding the strip tight enough against the fence 100 percent of the time. I would not bet on it. I have enjoyed seeing the various methods of implementing the wedgie sled concept. There have been some really good ones. Using two independent fences allows making several varieties of segments with one setup. These include normal segments, skewed, left and right leaning, complementary pairs, reverse pairs, straight and so on. Your version is limited to only normal segments. An ordinary large 30 degree triangle can be used to make a 12 segment ring, the 60 degree end will do a 6, and a 45 degree triangle will make an 8. You do not have to buy anything to get going. Jerry Bennett

[@alsanova]

I think you have nailed on this one, possibly the best one I've seen than any other.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+Kreative Blog Thanks!

[@Sebastopolmark]

GREAT jig Jeremy. Very well thought out and multi purpose, which is ALWAYS a good thing.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+Sebastopolmark Thanks!

[@MJFacas]

You have a bright future ahead. Great thinking.

[@The5upermann1]

Excellent! You should sell these.

[@traog2445]

What you mentioned about the stock needing to be parallel is a significant issue, with a regular wegie sled all you need is one flat face to work from and it will turn out a perfect ring.

[@ericsmith88]

The only issue I see is not having the fence behind the blade as you mentioned in the video; however, I think one could fix the issue by putting one of Marius Hornberger's Cam clamps into the T-Track and tightening it down to the track. Then one could safely and quickly hold the stock against the fence. You said you were comfortable holding so may not be a solution you need.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+Eric Smith Yeah I'm comfortable with it, but a cam clamp or a toggle clamp would also be a good idea.

[@JohnHughes2002]

Nice work Jer.

[@JerryBennettArt]

IMPORTANT: Cutting on a table saw on the back side of a fence is dangerous. As the strip gets shorter the more it gets. I know it sounds like a good idea but it is not. There are several ways to make a Wedgie sled that is safe. As the inventor of the system and producer of the Segmentology videos, I have more experience at it than anyone on the planet. The table saw is not your friend. It will bite you bad. Jerry Bennett

[@jimhumphrey]

If I'm famous for anything (and I am not) it's using dangerous things in even more dangerous ways. But any beginning segmentologist would do well to study your warning!

[@MintStiles]

Can you explain that again? I am kind on concerned because a single rail system IMO is easier to work with, but I also know the piece getting cut off falls the height of the sled base. this is where I actually am a bit concerned about the blade catching it even if it’s on a downward stroke.

[@tomcummings3471]

only drawback I can think of (versus the other design) would be maybe the holes wearing out some after a very long time, enough to throw off the precision of the angle

[@tomcummings3471]

ah but wait, that wouldn't matter would it, it would just make the wedges alternately different

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+Tom Cummings Yeah it doesn't matter, the only thing that matters is that the front & back of the wedge are right relative to each other.

[@musicbymark]

Tom Cummings you can harden the wood fibers in the holes with a few drops of cyanoacrylate (superglue). Bolts/studs with non threaded shank portions would further reduce wear.

[@williambranham6249]

The inserts would solve the problem, I think.

[@KBBAKTHA]

Very nice design and build video. Thanks

[@imanutnur7]

The saw blade can push the board away from the angle in your design I prefer the pressure of the saw blade holding the board.

[@martyjosephson4937]

Nice Job Jeremy, I think if you added a tail onto the 45 degree board you could attach it to the second bolt and keep your current design.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+Marty Josephson The bolt can't even be there because the stock will hit it. Much less a tail.

[@martyjosephson4937]

Yep, your right, how about a miter slot then?

[@crazyrussianwoodshop3957]

Great Sled, Jeremy. I also liked that CNC touch you threw in.:)

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+CrazyRussianWoodShop Thanks!

[@B00MBATS]

Excellent video, a must build for the shop. keep the videos coming.

[@paulodeoliveira3368]

Quick question: why can't you just create a single fence and flip the piece you're cutting? I'm really impressed how you're really coming into your own. Your videos and content are a lot more polished and it shows.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+Paulo De Oliveira That would basically be a miter gauge then. The thing that makes this sled work so well is the relationship between the front and back fences, and it has nothing to do with the relationship between the fence and the sled. Because of this there is no setup; the fences are just roughly mounted on the sled and the only precision parts there are is the front/back of the fence. Hope that made sense... Thanks!

[@NEVERSTOPFKUSA]

just a thought, why not make something like a folding ruler, which has two arms and you can adjust whatever the angle you want, rather than have multiple piece of triangle piece of guide. Don't get me wrong those CNC pieces look nice.

[@eunuiutube]

Brazil watching - good job

[@davesmulders3931]

Thanks for the video. If you don't mind it's registered to the other face of the stock when you do the second cut, you might as well just flip the stock bottom-up and use the same face of the template/fence. That way the sled can be more compact as you don't need stock support room on both sides. You might even fit a 45 degree one or higher on bolts located top or bottom, whichever you prefer in controlling the stock and sled. It will only work with stock you can actually flip ofcourse, but I think the majority is?

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+Dave Smulders You missed the point of the wedgie sled. What matters is that you cut one side of the joint on one side of the wedge, and the other side of the joint on the other side of the wedge. Because of this system there is absolutely no calibration to do; once you have the wedge on the right angle you can just slap it on the sled and make your cuts. Your idea is essentially the same as a miter gauge.

[@davesmulders3931]

Yup I did :) Then the 45 degree one isn't all that bad either. If it's on just a bit crooked, the parts will still match, and although the lines won't be exactly crossing in the center it's only really marginal.

[@samp1394]

I am really happy to see not all young men are dumb asses. You give me new hope for America!! Good work Jeremy

[@emilflognoid1532]

Super interesting and informative

[@etcavole]

Why didn't I discover your channel earlier? Amazing job, thanks a lot!

[@toms4123]

great contribution

[@dan__________________]

An obvious flaw would be that you will get tear out with solid lumber because the second cut is not supported by a fence behind the piece of wood.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+Dan Letkeman True, but that isn't really any better with a traditionally wedgie sled. Since their fences are moveable neither of them are zero clearance.

[@kolelovett1957]

Dan Letkeman that's easily overcome with a sacrificial piece. just butt it up against the piece and cut through both of them.

[@williambranham6249]

Hardly an issue after you put on a lathe.

[@akw825]

Came across this just today. Your sled idea makes so much more sense to me. I've never done any segment making or turning so take my question with a grain of salt. Is part of the issue with the gaps in the segments (on your first-fourth tries) due to the inconsistent overhang on your cuts? I would think that if there was a stop block of some kind before your blade so each overhang is the same, wouldn't that help with gaps? Probably not. It's been too many years since high school geometry.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+akw825 In theory, the angle is all the should matter. If each of the segments is exactly 30°, then 12 of them should add up to 360°, regardless of length. However, in practice it is difficult to place them correctly to make this come out right. (A longer segment has to be set out from the middle in order to fit right) So you're right, if I cut them all to the exact same length it would be easier to get them lined up.

[@beskoka53]

Köszi,már rég keresek valami ilyen megoldást :D

[@nlimchua]

great no BS instructional, wld like to see more!

[@MRrwmac]

Usually there is some room for improvement and you have done that!

[@ValioMadre7]

Awesome, thanks for sharing.

[@TheWingnut58]

I would use the small end towards the blade..... otherwise you need to set up two stop blocks to cut the segments....

[@seanflanagan5674]

Excellent description and explanation! I also like the improvement you mentioned. Kudos!

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+Sean Flanagan Thanks!

[@JoergGebhard]

use a 3rd screw for the 45 degree? for the others the 3rd screw wont hurt.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+Joerg Gebhard *Facepalm* Of course! That's a way better idea! :) Thanks!

[@LeJambeaux]

Good job Jer, I like it.

[@SasquaPlatypus]

Dude you've got some really rock solid designs and I like the your thoughts on stuff like push blocks on the table saw. Keep up the good work!

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+SasquaPlatypus Thanks!

[@user-lm8ii8pj3b]

Молодец !!!!! Всё гениальное просто !!! Респект !!!

[@AndreaArzensek]

Another great video Jer! I was wondering if this angle piece could be cut on CNC without that many trials. On the other hand I love that you made it very user friendly as no one sane will buy a CNC just for that :) Cheers!

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+Andrea Arzensek Thanks! My CNC isn't quite precise enough to make them right the first time, so I just used the sled to take care of that slight error with the table saw.

[@Uncle_Buzz]

Brilliant as always. A heads-up, you may be asked to change the name/title (you know...because of the copyright/trademark cops and all). Cheers! Chris.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+CrossWood Haven't got in trouble for my GRR-Rippers yet! :) Thanks!

[@Uncle_Buzz]

Oh yeah! I forgot about that. Either way, you're super smart and I love watching your videos. Keep them coming. Cheers! Chris.

[@jasonenz4238]

Do you even need the wedge at this point? Couldn't you just have a rail with the correct angle (or even adjustable) with that nifty little handle, and run the stock off that one rail...just flipping the stock after each cut?!?! If it's a dumb question, I never claimed to be bright. :) I have 3 CNC's at the shop I work at so a cnc cut wedge might be a better option for me.

[@tubegor]

Only genius can inspire others and that is the case. Thanks!

[@Jer_Schmidt]

+Werner Wenk Thank you! Glad to hear this was an inspiration!

[@latherookie]

Jeremy, get with it, looking for the next video.

[@Villywoodworking]

I make my wedge from a laser cutter perfect angle every time

[@sjonkers96]

why have i never seen anyone cut a dado for the runner, just great

[@billcampbell3057]

Very well done video. Most everything is explained very well. Im not sure why you installed the T track though. I thought it was to hold a sliding bolt for the angle guide, but in 5:43-5:45 the bolt coming up through the angle pc is clearly closer to the jig edge than the T track. What is the T tracks purpose? Is it solely to hold the 45 pc later as shown at the 6:20 mark? thx

[@Jer_Schmidt]

You can remove the wedge fences altogether and use this sled to joint the edge of a crooked board. So the T-track is there to use with clamps to hold said board in place. It’s also used while making the wedge fences themselves, as I showed.

[@jacquesmostert4115]

Thank you very much...this is a great thing to have..!!!!! Thank you for explaining everything in detail.. Looking forward to more great projects from you. Keep up the good work. Jacques Mostert Cape Town South Africa

[@weekendwarrior9570]

Great video and process. Thank you for sharing

[@rexoats8008]

Just found your channel . Excellent, very useful .