Jet Boat RAIL KIT & Engine Install ~ Setting U-JOINT angles

[@AutoTechNick]

One thing that I did not cover. OIL PAN CLEARANCE. If you are going to mount your engine with a mockup block as I did. It would be ideal to do so with the oil pan that you will be running installed. The clearance from the oil pan to the intake housing is very, very minimal. My pan was not installed, because it is already installed on the actual engine. However, I did take measurements of the oil pan depth and compared them to the mockup block to be sure that I positioned the engine with adequate clearance to the intake housing & mounting bolts. ~ Nick

[@projectundrfire]

Why did you go with square fuel tanks over round?

[@AutoTechNick]

The square tanks are original to the boat. They are in excellent condition, so I shoes to reuse them. ~ Nick

[@adventurethumpers6888]

Such a great series!! My son and I are getting read to start our boat build and you are very inspiring!! Looking forward to more of this build.

[@AutoTechNick]

Thank you! Best of luck to you and your son on your build! What are you guys planning on doing to your boat? ~ Nick

[@bryanturner683]

Well, Excellent video Nick as Usual. I really could have used this a month ago!!!!... So I am unburdened by a couple of things. first, I have 4 adjustable mounts on the Block. Second, I am not burdened by your attention to detail. My wife often wishes I was. So what I learned was, 1) I could have used the old block to mock up position while engine was at mechanic waiting to get tested on the stand. 2) Its a really simple process if you have 4 adjustable points on the block. So first, A. align block with pump using laser. B, measure angle at cleanout, C, measure angle of crank, D measure angle of H bar. E , since pump intake is fixed, drop or raise block as needed to get correct H bar angle. So,,,,, I was told by a very nice guy at American turbine that they use two 8" discs, one mounted to pump the other to the rear of the crank. they get the discs parrallel, aligned and equally spaced then , drop the engine 1/16th of an inch. I haven't done the final trig calculations but Im pretty sure that puts it into the correct 1 to 3 degree range??? ( I'll know for sure when I do final adjustments. ) So what we did was bolt an aluminum plate to the bearing housing on the pump. We marked elevation and center as best we could. then the same on the bell housing. Dropped the engine in and played with it for far longer then needed till we thought it was correct. Tape measure and a simple level. Note, my son came over and I commented that the engine angle did not look correct with the pump shaft. He said it looked great to him. So I took my glasses off and sure enough it looked pretty good. Wasted an hour right there. Finally got a little digital gage and checked everything today. We are off 2 degrees on the crank. We are at little more than 1 degree on the H bar. I think if I have my math correct when I drop the front of the engine to get the crank into correct angle , it will increase the H bar angle just a bit. Think we did pretty good for a dirt farmer from Sherwood or. I have run this thing for years without checking the angle, had no idea how u joints really worked????? I doubt this thing was ever set properly. Pump intake isn't even set in straight. It's a 1 of 6 Duckworth hull they built for whitewater racing in the late 80's. As near as I can tell, Duckworth built the hull and the owner installed engine. I was told they quit making them because they couldnt get more 70 MPH with 500 HP. Im not into that at all. I do want power to get app on plane and want it to run correctly, but I honestly have never pushed throttle forward to see what it would do for speed? Thanks so much Nick! I really enjoy engaging with folks that are smarter than me!!!!

[@AutoTechNick]

The method that American Turbine gave you to get everything lined up is going to have you very close. I didn't measure the drop of my engine compared to my pump, but I would def say it's within 1/16 - 1/8. It's not much at all. I bet there is more boats out on the water with pumps and intakes out of alignment to the engines, than there are boats properly lined up 🤣. And I'm sure many of those guys haven't noticed any issues. Which makes one wonder how important the angle really is, and also how far can one go before having issues. Mine was WAYYYYY outta wack before this rebuild, and it cost me two thrust bearings/engines. Looking back I wish I woulda measured the angles to see what they were before I tore the boat down, but I was too focused on getting the boat apart and fixed. My engine and intake were out of place from the factory. We ran that boat that way for 20 years with no problems, then one day it was a problem... What are your plans for the engine in your Duckworth? ~ Nick

[@bryanturner683]

@@AutoTechNick Well, I went out to spend 20 minutes to get it properly set and 2 hours later I figure out there is not enough down adjustment on the front of the engine. I got it within 2 degrees when I ran out of adjustment but as soon as I started raise the rear to get it right, then my H bar angle hits its 3 degree limit???? I started this project in Jan of 23, removing waterlogged foam. Get that fixed and when I go to run it the intake manifold had corroded through and washed out the bearing. The tale grew in the telling, I wish I had KZbind the whole mess. Im sure I would have a got a lot of sympathy donations. From machinists lying to me , to machinist doing shoddy work, to pretty much everything Ive worked on has required some remedy. I sent the engine to my mechanic for break in because I was afraid to start it. It spent two months there. Excuse me ,for a minute while I fall on my sword! Some of the issues were my own mistakes, those are the worst. There have been so many issues with this project Im afraid to not make it right. My H bar is really difficult to get an accurate measurement. So I think a couple of small magnets and a small metal flat bar to make a good flat surface to measure. One thing for sure is this thing was never "correct". I ordered some mounts and to fix this I'll have to fabricate new mounts. Not beyond my skill level, but way beyond my patience on this thing. We've got Salmon coming and I already missed last year. Plus crabbing and I really want to check out the new Inducer impeller, and Exact weld split reverse bucket and trim nozzle. Thanks for your time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@johnrhodes9293]

Hi Guys, I'm finding your boat build very interesting. I'm a boat builder, I have a 21 Kona day cruiser that I'm making stretching to 25'. I'm using pretty much the same engine as you. My first BBC build. Your pumping and hardware videos are very helpful. My plan is to add 4' but only move the engine back 3, as to keep the boat flatter in the water. Open nose in front and table to bed in back.

[@AutoTechNick]

Ooof, that is a huge project you have on your hands! How long do you think that transformation will take you? ~ Nick

[@JoeJoeOnTheRadio]

Love it, I’m in the process of resealing my intake and doing a 4” thru transom on my 21’sleekcraft. Can wait to see it float!

[@justinleonard110]

Love this series!

[@AutoTechNick]

🙌 Thank you!!!

[@abarragan951]

Such a nice set nick. Now inwant aluminum rails! Hopefully after this summer i can re do my intake and add shoe amd ride plate might ad well change the mounting set up. Mine has the original bolt mount that advantage boats used in 1990. Can wait to see her in the water!

[@AutoTechNick]

Thank you! I really can't wait to see the kit installed with all the tape and plastic off!! Watch out for "mission creep" when you start your build.... it gets the best of us...

[@GregoryJohnston77]

New aub here, loving this man, I'm gonna start from the beginning of this cause i need some ideas. Lol

[@AutoTechNick]

Welcome to the channel! ~ Nick

[@deadspline3252]

Great video Nick, you've earned another sub!

[@AutoTechNick]

Well, well well. Look who we have here.... Thanks Eric....😉

[@deadspline3252]

@@AutoTechNick big kisses 😚 from Alabama ;)

[@mitchklaserner9842]

Hell yeah best series ever

[@AutoTechNick]

🙏 Thank you!

[@jamiesonsime9197]

I’m curious as to if the trailer that hauls this beauty around in will see some attention at the end. Can’t have such a nice boat be on a tired looking trailer! 😄

[@AutoTechNick]

Eventually yes, the trailer needs some love. However there are a few cars in the shop that need some love before the trailer. ~ Nick

[@hotrodhatch]

Looking good! What’s next? Carpet and upholstery

[@AutoTechNick]

I am actually going to take the boat through a full mock up first. Then I’ll tear it back down and handle the carpet, then full assembly. I still have a fair amount of fab finessing of things to do. ~ Nick

[@stevem8602]

Outstanding!

[@jeremybaker7518]

Awesome content. I have a question maybe you can help me with . The spicer flange on the pto side I can't seem to find any info on it for numbers on that end. I'm doing a bbo to bbc conversion. And that side isn't usable for the chevy so I wanted to replace just that end if that makes sense. Thanks for any info

[@AutoTechNick]

I used to have the individual part numbers for the flanges saved on my PC. I'll look and see if I can find them for you. ~ Nick

[@it426]

Hey Nick, what are you going to use to seal up the rail kit holes?

[@AutoTechNick]

I haven't fully decided yet. The easy route would be to silicone on either side of the rails and in the bolt hole. Or I could mix up some resin and dilute it with acetone to thin it out and try to work it in the holes. Thinning it out will help it soak into the wood better, and hopefully make it a bit easier to apply. Although I drilled the holes on the small side, that may create some additional headaches in the final assembly. ~ Nick

[@edillett4259]

Sweet project! How much did that jet intake run you?

[@AutoTechNick]

Around 1k total. That includes the shoe, ride plate, and cradle, then the machine work and shipping both ways of my existing intake. ~ Nick

[@Backtanner]

If you decide to go to an LS, do you have to change the rails?

[@AutoTechNick]

Most likely not. If the new LS engine plates allow you to set the engine at the proper height to achieve the needed drive shaft angle, then you could keep the existing rails. ~ Nick

[@projectundrfire]

Don't forget about water pressure. Please don't milk your oil after 4 years of work... or it's all delayed youtube. Please put a bypass valve and another outlet hole. Don't do the whole flow gate or ball and call it a day. Also level your boat in the water. My 1976 hornet with a 460 works well but it's canted to the rear.

[@AutoTechNick]

Yes, I run a pressure relief valve off the pump with a dump out the transom. ~ Nick

[@aarong2387]

Comment for the algorithm

[@AutoTechNick]

💪 I appreciate that!!!