Can I put modern components on a Vintage Steel frameset? I'll show you how!

In this video we talk about the steps needed and things to look for in putting modern bicycle components on a vintage steel frameset. I talk about the advantages and disadvantages of doing that.
A glaring mistake in the video: I said standard six speed spacing was 125mm. Its actually 126.
(Edit on 1-4-24)
Someone made a comment on this video that was spot on. Also make sure before picking a headset that you consider the stack height. You don't want to buy a headset to find out that your fork steer tube is too short. Just a thought.
Music by Bensounds.com
How to respace your rear dropouts
• Cold Setting A Bike Fr...

[@kerrydurston6171]

With those cars and those bikes together, you are without doubt the coolest bike guy on the internet. Cheers from Australia.

[@tongalizia3175]

Great video HOMIE,,,,,I was bitten by the bicycle bug since 1972 ( Eddy Merckx hour record era) and the classic frames are better than carbon.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Homie! LOL. I almost retook that shot..But it was funny. Whats your bike of choice?

[@niklaskristensson2231]

Very enlightening!❤🎉

[@Sills71]

Most of the time you don't need to "cold set" a vintage frame.... all you have to do is spread the dropouts when you insert the wheel. As you said 5mm is not much so it is not a struggle.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

I partly agree. IMO. over time you can bend an axle if you don't make the drops parallel again. They really need to be aligned. Thanks for watching

[@bagreene6710]

I took my 1979 Puch with 27” wheels, and replaced them with used 700c wheels. The original wheels had a 5 speed freewheel, the 700c wheels have 9 speed cassette. I put a 90’s era triple MTB crankset on it with a 11-34 cassette, and eventually “upgraded” to 3x9 Sora shifters and a deore rear derailleur. I changed the original center pull brakes to Tektro, double pivot brakes that stop much, much better and can come in a “nutted” version for old frames. Replaced the quill stem with an adapter for a better fitting modern stem and… Lastly, put on 38mm gravel tires to make a “go anywhere” kind of bike. The whole thing weighs about 27 pounds , shifts perfectly, and is really fun to ride!

[@carlstoffels5476]

Restomod bikes are the only way in Colorado for climbing hills Vintage components mixed with Campy 11 speed Athena group and Record 10S hubs has the look and the performance on a 90"s De Rosa Keep original bikes original and ride them on the flat Platte River trail otherwise I say go modern drivetrain your knees will thank you

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Some good advice.

[@slavkingsxr]

My personal reason was cost: used 50$ steel frame + china groupset 160$ + used wheelset 60$ + BB 20$ + handlebar, seat etc = up to 400$ and i have nice-riding steel bike )) Especially when you do it gradually over time.

[@asebaninja]

Which China groupset did you end up with? Ltwoo or sensah

[@slavkingsxr]

@@asebaninja 11s Sensah mechanical, i like how it's works, but rubber on hoods is not very pleasant to the touch.

[@necromax13]

There's no way i would trust that build over a new entry level bike. Decathlon has a few good ones. Used wheelset lol...

[@yukiko_5051]

Lol my alloy bike with 105 and carbon fork only cost me $470!

[@slavkingsxr]

@@yukiko_5051 you can proud yourself 👏

[@daveslater309]

Note - if you do not want to bend your frame Grand Bois make 120/126 rear hubs that take a modern Shimano sprockets . I have upgraded my 1968 Jack Taylor on a 120 Hub with Miche sprockets and a Tiara 10 speed shifters (limited to 8 via limit screws) 26/44 front and 13/15/17/19/21/23/25/27 for bike packing.

[@ttnyny]

Not to quibble over just 1 mm - well, OK, I am quibbling - but I recall so-called 6-speed spacing being 126 mm, not 125. I remember it going from 120 to 126 to 130 (and eventually to 135).

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

you're probably right! LOL I was thinking that too.

[@lastfm4477]

@@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage It would only have taken 2 minutes to look up the exact spacing on Sheldon Brown's website...

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

@@lastfm4477 it's one of those things that you know. Then you misspeak. No big deal.

[@jacobusdegroot7557]

@@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage I hate when that happens.

[@gm9559]

Sorry but actually is was a 126 mm rear spacing, not 125. Cold Set it to 130 mm, alien the droputs to one another and go for it. Most vintage frames will take up to 30 or maybe 32 mm tires. Have rebuilt many old steel frames. Good video for basic info.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Great catch! 126 is correct. Thanks for watching

[@ThisTimeTheWorld]

Re space to 130 and jam

[@Gravel-Cult]

There is just something about a vintage steel frame that stands the test of time. In my younger racing days you could usually bend the frames back into alignment if the crash was not too bad. Now a days a crash in a criterium is a $1,500 to $3,000 frame replacement. It is still fun to ride my vintage frames from the 80s. It is crazy to think that was over 40 years ago now. lt is nice to give those old frames new life!

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

I have one of those Carbon bikes. I do enjoy it to be honest. However I love the feel of the steel a bit more. I feel more sure footed around corners. Im a larger guy.

[@77gmcnut]

I have a very nice Reynolds 531 Motobecane LeChampion from the 70s that I had refinished by CycleArt. I'm going to put it back into service with some modern componentry and ride it again. Thanks for the video. And I'm currently your most recent subscriber.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

@@77gmcnut thanks so much! I appreciate that.

[@l.d.t.6327]

My 400 euro carbon crit frame has crashed 3 times and it’s still competitive. My steel bikes are still competitive, too, in retro races. I like riding all of them.

[@SMidberg]

Agree, they are very comfortable and ,yes, cracy , for me 38 years ago I bought my custombuild Bob Jackson bike .

[@VolkanTaninmis]

Even I'm using a 36 years old noname frame with cheapest shimano 3x7 setup. It just works, makes me happy.

[@rdt8888]

During the pandemic I bought a 1986 Schwinn Peloton frame on ebay. Schwinn contracted with Panasonic to build those frames with Columbus SL tubing. I built it up with modern Shimano 105 and Ultegra components. I had to use what I could get during the parts shortage. It was a nice project. I did go with modern handlebars because I like compact drops. I live in the mountains and went with 50-34 crankset and 11-32 cassette. It came out really nice. Glad I am not alone. Thanks for posting. Great video.

[@ThisTimeTheWorld]

I put a 34/50 Vuelta on a garage sale 2x6 TREK classic. I love it and saved it from the scrap yard

[@PRH123]

Sweet. I remember the pelotons. Didn't often see one though as Italian stuff was all the rage in the early 90's

[@littleBrownDwarf]

I have an '85 Peloton with the original suntour superbe pro groupset, probably the best bike I've ever owned. Have done tens of thousands of miles on her, did a 2000 mile bikepacking tour, did some amateur racing. Just the pinnacle of steel frame bicycles right there.

[@BICIeCOMPUTERconGabriele]

What a beautiful collection of bicycles and cars!

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Thanks!

[@watdanuqta-mf5ms]

I own a 1968 Schwinn Super Sport with 10 speed ultegra sti shifters, 105 three-piece crank, Dura acea D7900 front derallieur(no adapter necessary) and Tektro long reach brakes(ultegras didn't work out), Mavic Open Pro rims laced to ultegra hubs with Wheel Smith double-butted spokes, 28mm Rubino Pro tires. Nitto bars and I forget what stem, Campy cable guides with beautiful fleur de lis design and custom parts here and there. Basically the only original parts left were the frame, fork, and Brooks B-15 saddle in great condition. Remarkable how much weight comes off this bike when the Ashtabula crank and kickstand are removed. I just love those chrome-moly fillet brazed frames.

[@petermarshall7775]

A great video John one more issue; if you are doing this to a British vintage touring bike, it probably came with 27 x 1 1/4 rims and modern brakes might prove too short in the stirrup. Solved this with vintage Mafac brakes , which I hated as a youth, but they do work and are easy to find jon

[@carlosdeno]

Absolutely beautiful and with respect your garage is stunning. I’ve been on steel for the last 20 years and at 60 years old now would never change my ride. Steel has a soul, pure and simple. Carbon bikes are soulless, I purchased a Colnago C64 sold it after three rides. So glad I found your channel. 👍🏼🇬🇧

[@realalbertan]

You can get quill stems for 31.8 with a face plate.

[@ajyfji7021]

I've done basically the same thing on a '90s pearlescent pink Holdsworth. It's a lovely ride, and usually gets some nods from other riders. It was also a nice cheap build, relatively!

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Nothing better than having a bike this just fits and works for you.

[@joepassante8498]

Excellent video. I like the idea of new components on old frames, so now I know what to look for.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Excellent. Glad it helped. Thanks for watching

[@mojojojo6852]

Hey, young (32) vintage mtb builder here. I really appreciate your open minded attitude towards building bikes. I'm restomodding 90s mtbs and I love the challenges that come with upgrading an old steel frame with modern parts. Your video has been helpful. And it's been fun to watch, too! Thanks!

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

AWESOME> I was the local GT bicycles rep from 89 to 99. Thats my era. I get excited when I see an old XTR bike..Thanks for watching

[@deniahmetaj]

Hey mojo, firstly good luck on your projects! Personally I have a 90s 26” MTB that I have modded to be a little more modern, I wanted to know, is there any way to put a threadless 1 1/8th steerer fork as a replacement for the 1” threaded vintage fork and headset? The head tube looks a bit narrow and I’ve read it can’t be done unless the threaded fork is also 1 1/8. That’s really the one thing I really want to change, so I can put a good suspension fork that also supports hydraulic brakes. I would really appreciate your insight

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

@@deniahmetaj To my knowledge, that is not possible. I know this is a vintage road bike channel. But I was the GT factory rep from 89 to 99. Good luck

[@appelflapdrol]

​@@deniahmetajfar as I know that's unfortunately not possible, have you tried fitting one already ?

[@MaximRecoil]

@@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage It is possible, since it's possible with old BMXs that were designed for 1" threaded headsets. There's a stickied thread about it in the BMX Tech & Restoration subforum of the BMX Museum forum, titled "How To Convert 1inch Threaded To 1 1/8 Threadless". I would link directly to the thread but KZbin doesn't like external links these days, but copy and pasting the thread title into Google will turn it up. It's not hard to do if you use loose ball bearings (which are better than caged bearings anyway because you can fit more bearings of a given size into a given space), but if you want to use caged bearings for whatever reason, you may have to try various ones before finding ones that mate well with the cups and cones. And the procedure for a BMX is no different than for a mountain bike. The only difference between the two is the length of the head tube and steerer tube, which doesn't matter at all for this type of conversion. It would work for old road bikes too. The gist of it is that you need a 1 1/8" threadless fork, a 1 1/8" threadless stem, and a 1 1/8" threadless headset designed for caged or loose bearings (as opposed to cartridge bearings), but you won't be using the head tube cups from that headset; instead you use ones from a 1" threaded headset. Then just put it together as you'd normally do with a modern bike, and use loose ball bearings to prevent any potential hassles associated with finding cages that fit right. Maybe you should try it since you have so many parts and bikes, and if all goes well, make a video about it.

[@ThisTimeTheWorld]

Throw parts on it till it runs.

[@Gregorynts]

Thank you. I want to restore (by myself if I can) my 1975 Peugeot UE_8 for sentimental reasons primarily, but also the desire to get back to cycling. Very helpful points for me to consider that you have made here.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Hey hey! That should be fun.

[@standardarm63]

My favorite Standards were made by Waterford.

[@CharlieMetcalf]

That is an ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL bike! Love the neo-retro.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Thanks!

[@kixigvak]

That Miyata frame is a work of art. I have a late '80s Team Miyata. Top tube is too short for me but otherwise it's a very nice bike.

[@V_Matviichuk]

I love restomod bikes! I build one myself earlier this year based on 1979 Gazelle Champion Mondial frame. Replaced everything but the frame with modern componentry, threadless headset, carbon 1inch fork, carbon seat post, carbon wheels, full SRAM Rival 1x11 groupset (incl. brakes and crankset). I simply can't get enough of this bikes looks and of how it rides!

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Wow, you went all out! Even the fork! Nice job

[@danielholle1690]

Hey Matviichuk, i also have access to a champion mondial „A Frame“ with Reynolds 531 tubing. Do you recommend building it up with modern components? What were the challenges and whats the maximal tire clearence you get? Greetings from Germany, Daniel

[@V_Matviichuk]

Hey, Daniel! Mine is also A-frame, by the way. I definitely recommend building it up with modern stuff! Depending on the frame size seat post diameter might differ. I have size 53 and the DIA is 27.0, frames 54+ will have 27.2mm. I wanted as much carbon parts as possible, so finding a 27.0mm carbon seatpost was a challenge. Another thing to mention is the rear hub spacing, it differs from 120mm in the early years to 126mm in the later years. Mine is 1979 and had 125mm spacing, so only 5mm to set for modern 130mm hub. Though Reynolds 531 can be easily cold set to almost any size. Bottom brackets are BSA on all years, so nothing special there. Regarding the tire size, it is limited by brake calipers rather than a frame itself. I'm using SRAM Rival brakes, so my max tire is 28mm. I think most of the calipers are maxing out at about 28mm. If it wasn't for the brakes I think 30-32mm would fit. Regards, V.

[@danielholle1690]

@@V_Matviichuk Wow, thanks for the details! I might come back to you for more info, when i am deciding to the conversion.

[@GEKKO_Archery]

To throw all the vintage enthusiasts completely off... Slam a BBS02 into the bottom bracket and a bottle shape battery in the bottlecage and have yourself a surprisingly capable E-Bike.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Well.. I'm not at that stage of life yet.. maybe some day!

[@bengt_axle]

Modern components on vintage frames are a thing of its own. Some people like the look, the performance and how it is a bit eclectic. These bikes don't have to look authentic, just like vintage clothing is often mixed with modern.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Bikes are personal. Do what works for you!

[@jamesdelgado2009]

That 1983 Pro-Miyata is the exact same model as the first bike I bought with my own hard-earned summer money. I still have it, built up currently with a full Dura-Ace AX group including the AX handlebars, stem, and seatpost. It looks cool with the aero fork and seat stays and that funky top downtube shifter boss. I also have a 1983 Team-Miyata with full Dura-Ace EX with stem, seatpost, and AX handlebars, as well as a 1981 Team-Myata with full DA AX group but currently not built up. I do have some retromod bikes: a 1991 Team-Miyata with 10-speed DA 7800/7700, a 1989 Tesch S-22 with 11-speed Campy Record, a 1989 Pinarello with 11-speed Athena/Chorus, a 1991 Zullo with 11-speed Athena, and soon to be early 90s Picchio Special with 11-speed Campy SR/Record. I definitely get more use out of my retromod bikes. And no, none of these bikes are ruined as they can all go easily right back to contemporary components just as fast as I can strip and install them.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

What an amazing collection. A 81 Miyata Team built stock is a Must have!

[@lastfm4477]

The '81 Team came with Dura-Ace AX? Not EX? My early 80's came with EX. The cranks & pedals, and stem and I think seat post was the same between EX and AX - but the derailleurs and brakes were very different.

[@PRH123]

You must have a big garage, and an understanding wife :)

[@yylvib]

Hi - I just bought a Pro Miyata and I noticed a little crack at rear drop out on deralier side, is that an issue ? Do I have to check it out to a frame builder ? I am planing on doing a retromod. I would like to hear out your opinion on it, happy to send pictures. Cheers

[@lfoster7601]

Cold set my 1980 Carlton Clubman frame myself using threaded rod and nuts / washers inside the drop outs, then gradually easing it out a half turn every few days. Worked perfectly, had it checked on a jig and dropouts were straight. I thenI built it with Campagnolo 9speed (Which is same width and hub as 9/10/11/12 speed, so I could have used any of those). Easy so long as you consider what could go wrong and check after. The resultant bike was a dream to ride (as good as my 1983 Carlton Professional which is running the same equpment, but was professionally cold set). I have recently taken it out of service to get a respray as frame was looking very tatty - will rebuild back to 9speed when painted.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

That should be cool when it's done. Id like to see it painted. Email it to my address on my KZbin page! Thanks

[@bleckandbleck]

If the frame is not prepped for recessed bolts, you usually can ream or drill the rear opening larger to fit the recessed nut. Remember to paint any exposed steel.

[@dinodaniel2237]

Hey John , been following your channel for quite awhile,and must say this video is one of your finest. All the best. STEEL IS REAL!

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Thanks so much!

[@24inchdubz]

brake reach is the main issue. Old Raleighs and Peugeot such a pain to brakes fit

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

For sure! I see many retromods with modern stuff and VERY long reach Tektro brakes or vintage centerpulls.

[@douglasguillory160]

I had a frameset that I had built in the early 90s that wasn’t used in a long time. I decided that it would be fun to put modern parts on it. I stripped the paint and had it powder coated, spread the rear dropouts using a bolt and nuts, had a bike shop make the dropouts parallel, replaced the fork with a Columbus Minimal carbon fiber model, replaced the stem with a threadless type and used modern drivetrain. It worked fine, and only problem was that I have to let the air out to remove the rear wheel because it was designed for the old narrow tires.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Wow! what frame was it?

[@operadad552]

In addition to the Team (DuraAce EX) there is the Aero (DuraAce AX). Both were great bikes of the time-if not quirky. And yeah, the big issue was the tire clearance, they made it reaallllly tight. The vest you can do (in the modern sense) is a 25 mm sew up. That will ride nicely but…

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Ive seen only a few of those. Last one around here was at Cycle Smithy in Chicago. Mark sold it for 11K! It was NOS

[@dgillies5420]

YOU MISSED ONE INPORTANT THING. Modern Shimano derailleurs expect a longer derailleur drop than in the 1950s-2000's campagnolo standard and the derailleur upper jockey wheel will hit a large freewheel on an old bike since the shimano longer derailleur hanger standard defeated campagnolo and those longer derailleur hangers are on modern dropouts. So be careful putting a 105 / altus / tiagra modern derailleur on a shorter derailleur-hanger vintage frame you may have the upper jockey wheels hitting the freewheel - the vibration on my 1974 raleigh super tourer caused my maillard QR Skewer to explode and become a missile flying across the road!

[@twgq]

Yeah, running steel frames with Ritchey classic line components and silver Shimano 105 r7000! Such a cool bike.

[@EditioCastigata]

Publish some photos somewhere. :-)

[@CaptainRon956]

I recently picked up a ‘86 Centurion Ironman with Shimano 600 groupset. I stripped it all down, sold the parts on eBay and currently upgrading it to a Tiagra 4700 10 speed groupset. I found a set of SLR-0 carbon wheels and cold set the rear dropouts to fit the 130mm axle. So far so good. It’s very light for a steel frame bike.

[@lastfm4477]

Other than the super-heavy crank, Tiagra 4700 is truly the Groupset of the People(tm). Switch out the 4700 crankset for a 105 R7000 or 5800 and you're golden.

[@davidshaper5146]

Just make sure your new crank hasn't been recalled!

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

EXACTLY> Thanks for reminding me. I need to check. I have three of those suckers!

[@shoff535]

Great video as always! I’m doing the same thing with an ‘87 Raleigh 531c “Racing USA” frame. I had a local frame builder spread and aligned the rear triangle to 130mm and will build it up (except for the brakes) with a Campy 9sp triple, the brakes, I’ve had a set of Deltas sitting around for a while 😊. I figured if they were good enough for Laurent Fignon that they would work well enough for me 😊

[@colletjulien]

As a rule of thumb: 7 speeds bikes and above are directly upgradable (130/135 spacing). I also upgraded two with modern groupset, one in black (chorus) and one in silver (centaur). Silver componentry and wheels are not easy to find new now.

[@woutervanderdoes5163]

7 speed was often still 126 mm spacing (road) or 130 mm spacing (mtb). The switch to 130 for road and 135 mm for mtb came at 8 speed! There are some exceptions for 7-speed mtb hubs with 135 mm spacing, butas far as I know 6/7 speed road hubs were always spaced at 126 mm. Credit to Sheldon Brown / Bicycle Frame/Hub Spacing!

[@aerowilly65]

My 7 speed ‘90’s Peugeot road bike has 126mm spacing.

[@saxon1376]

Thinking of picking up a modern cinelli super corsa frame and throwing on some fairly modern campag think that would be sweet 🤔 Nice bug 👍

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

I have a 2006 in red. You can see my video on the channel. Im going to take that and put a Chorus or Record 10/11 speed group on it. Cant wait. Good luck with that. The bug Belongs to my sister inlaw. I keep it warm in the winter for her! Thanks!

[@bleckandbleck]

Make sure your skewers have a serrated clamping surface if the dropouts are horizontal. It’s easy to pull the drive side forward if the clamping force and friction is not strong enough.

[@greengonzonz]

❤Steel love❤

[@loulechner]

I upgraded my 1970 Frejus to ultrega ...from all campy, though in 1970 did not come with campy brakes, I got a set of those,, for a vast fortune,,, kept all of the old campy parts.. I used the campy hubs and the tubular rims..I found some freewheels with 9 gears... problem was that the quick release axle bent as folks told me it would.. I looked for a solid axle with Italian threads. 145mm length... finally gave up and used the cones from a non Italian threaded axle. seems to work... I am riding a Trek Madone wireless ....the latest..... I have always ridden on tubular tires so I spent another three grand for carbon rims..for tubs ,,, as they call them so 1.300$ Im 78 so only a few years left.. the Trek really. makes no sense.. in a few years it will be a throw away,, no support for parts... My Frejus still a joy to ride,, only a few pounds heavier but seems just as fast.. and lots of parts to keep it going... thanks for your videos..

[@CRITESBIKER]

interesting that these steel lugged frames dont have commuter front suspension forks with a 26 rear and 700c front wheel speced with 42C tires using the old components as an old school mountain bike gravel bike. Makes the steel wheels a question as roads did not start off paved. seems like the mountain bike came first, which probably looks more like a harley davidson.

[@amonynous9041]

I'm doing the opposite, I bought a 1997 trek ZX 2300 composite with Carbon tubes and aluminium lugs and I want to convert it to look like it's from 70es, with non-aero brakes and downtube shifters, but with added carbon fiber drop handlebars that have the look of 70es handlebars, so less ergonomic and more sexy. The bike is 9 kg by default, but when I change some other parts I can make it even lighter, maybe even add carbon fiber fork, seat post and wheels.

[@michaelbonade4667]

Ah…I wouldn’t mind at all if my garage was littered with two wheeled beauties

[@yisraels4555]

My 1986 Trek 560 is now running a 11x 105 system. A small note about stems and handlebars... The geometry of modern bars and brifters is different than older stuff. I never had a really comfortable hand position until i swapped the bars for modern geometry.

[@KingofStreet3]

I have a cannondale R300i put Tiraga brakes and I’m guessing I can fit 30c tires but I do plan on doing maybe a Shimano 105 (mechanical) swap with the original crank.

[@meadows408]

Love the build. I own a Miyata 914 triple butted splined and it is the sleeper in my collection. Just hollotech bb, 50-34 ( for my old legs) 6 speed dt indexed shifters ( Suntour) and a great set of wheels, durace hubs.. It rides as good or better than my reynolds 531, ishiwata 022 and columbus. Just a joy to ride. I got into the hobby after retirement and working on the old steel frames is good therapy and keeps me out of bars. Happy new year and thanks for the videos, keep them coming. PS, tektro has 539 brakes with both nutted and recessed mounts.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Awesome bike! Im a fan of the Miyata splined tubing too. Miyata's have always been a bit stiffer than the rest back then. Correct on the Tektro brakes! Thanks

[@sabrowenie]

I’ve got a few bikes in my Service Course. My Litespeed 2003 Tuscany is the road ride of choice. But the biggest tire I could go with the “new’ wider 11 speed compatible wheels is 25c tires. I know tire size is sometimes arbitrary, my choice of tires is Panaracer.

[@muzkat101]

What a sweet collection of bikes... love to see old bikes being used and loved. Yeah, all the new bikes look nice, but they all seem to be missing something... I feel that 'something' is the look of a hand-made bike. There's definitely something to be admired about an old-school Columbus SL & SP framed bike; that 'something' that seems to be missing in modern frames. I am not into racing, so modern for modern's sake doesn't appeal to me; much like new sports cars vs. old muscle cars... putting safety aside, buying cheap and modding it seems to make better sense to me. Again, I am not at all interested in spending thousands on a new bike, and with so many classic road bikes on the market, this seems to me to be the far better option. Rebuilding and restoring an old classic seem to make far better sense than contributing to the consumerism of 'all-things new.' Besides, a 24lb road bike is still a light bike... my '85/6 Schwinn Voyageur SP Touring bike still kicks but for what I need it to do, and for that, that's all I need... I'm not racing anyone; I am just enjoying the ride.

[@nielsenrivera457]

Which carbon fork would you recommend. I have an old Raleigh I’m trying to modernize

[@kaiiemsawat2415]

Hi, very nice video here. I wonder if you can share the link to buy that 1" to 1 1/8" quill stem -> ahead stem, please

[@joszefrviz398]

How about an internal gear hub for a vintage 80s or early 90s steel-frame road bike?

[@MrTheDudeSan]

Great vid my dude. I've been very tempted to do a similar build. I have an oldish (2015) boardman carbon bike that's cracked and the seat post seized but the wheels and gears are good and as you say can't beat a good steel frame and that's exactly the info I needed to do the thing. Cheers.

[@Bodkin_Ye_Pointy]

So I have a 1986 Chrome Molybdenum frame on the wall of my garage and I have seen a couple of videos talking retro fits. I haven't seen one that talks chrome moly frames though and mine was owned brand new. I stopped using it because the gears and cogs wore out, with my front cog teeth looking like shark fins. The wheels were also suss because of brake block wear on the rims. Funnily enough the bike was built with quick release wheels. Tragically, I live in Aus so the fitout will still cost a quid or two.

[@krollpeter]

I do understand you 100%, nothing like such a beautiful made frame as that blue frame of yours. It is gorgeous!

[@govermentsoundsystemrootik8887]

Well of course you can...,depending on budget & at what you are prepared to do to achieve it nothing is impossible...!!

[@mokotramp]

I've just finished restoring my English built '79 Knight, R531 F&F/Campy drop-outs, with full Dura Ace 7100 gen2. Only things I've changed are the wheels with an 8s block, saddle and some spuds. I did have to shoehorn the rear wheel in, a little! 😁 Good video! ✌️🇬🇧

[@RazzFazz-Race]

I converted this year my 35 Year old Crossbike to 12 Speed: 180€ Chinese Groupset and 100€ new rearwheel with 11speed freehub. I did not cold bend the frame i just widened the frame and put the wheel in the frame. Changing wheel is now a little bit laborious. I did not changed the crankset, but changed to 1 chainring. I put this chainring 5mm more to the left to compensate the chainline because the new cassette is wider.

[@stibra101]

This is the best way to go today! Rides perfectly smooth, perfect brakes and perfect shifting. You can get great bike for 1000 EUR

[@jeffhildreth9244]

Inspirational video ! I have an 81/82 MIYATA Pro Aero that has been much modified since I bought it new. Mostly Sun Tour Superbe. The front forks are Cinelli Crown like yours with very narrow chromed blades. Some time ago I decided to leave it modified with its professional fade paint from silver blue to blue at the back. I have rethought this. I am going to strip it and repaint it in the original blue paint and upgrade some of the components as you have. I already got a full set of decals. I am still baffled about the exact original MIYATA frame blue paint. Also because of the low brake bridges I cannot run anything over a 23 and some 23s are too large. I am currently running 20s. Any thoughts as to equipment ? Also.. Just curious, where did you get the Porsche Logo on the wall ?

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Interesting that you can't run 25c tires. Im doing it with mine. Maybe chat with a professional frame painter. Doug Fattic, Jeffrey Bock maybe? They might be able to help with the original color. Not sure what you're trying to accomplish in regards to equipment. Are you talking about the Porsche Shield? That was made by a local artist. If you would like I can probably get the guys name.

[@jeffhildreth9244]

@@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage Thanks for the painter contact. I'll check with them. I am in So Oregon near Ashland. There is a Bike Mechanic school there. I'll see if there is a local painter, if not I'll contact Rivendell. As to equipment.. it's been a long time since I have ridden this bike and have forgotten I did some changes I just checked the rear cluster and forgot that I widened the rear and installed a 7 cog and may be at the limit on the low side using the Suntour Superbe Derailleur. Would like to go a bit lower. Suntorue Superbe brakes at the wheel are fine but would like to upgrade the braker levers. Handle bars are original and narrow. Seat is archaic and have not purchased any in years except for Brooks on my two Rivendells. Porsche LOGO. Curious because it looks similar to what I make. I do Euro and British auto and motorcycle Logos and now doing Bicycle Logo art. Hand drawn, hand painted.

[@yylvib]

Hi - I just bought a Pro Miyata and I noticed a little crack at rear drop out on derailer side, is that an issue ? Do I have to check it out to a frame builder ? I am planing on doing a retromod. I would like to hear out your opinion on it, happy to send pictures. Cheers

[@CRITESBIKER]

Why are you widening the drop outs and not changing the spacer dimensions on the hub?

[@bikee1394]

I just can add: Measure everything. There are, for example old french steer tubes with inner diameters of 22mm. Usually you have 22.2mm. No normal stem will fit. Also then you have to consider there are at least 3 diameters of the handlebar clams. Old, new.. and french you know. In central europe you will see a lot of different components.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Great catch on the french steer tube! Even some of the Schwinns had that size!

[@SMidberg]

Yes, I have had 2 frensh bikes.One Peugeot and a Motobecane. There was not even one thread that fit normal standard although they use metric threading. Bottom bracket : Peugeot 35×1 right ,right (french threading) Motobecane 35×1 left ,right (Swiss threading) and on top of that all bolts 5×1 ( not ISO metric standard M5×0,8 ). A Pain to get spareparts. Never again french steelbikes.😅

[@KOROKIK]

I always enjoy your videos 😊….Happy New year 🎉

[@DeltaCharlie27]

Porsche and vintage steel bikes. My kind of guy!

[@inquaanate2393]

Sometimes you just gotta take a saw to a bike part to make it fit. Those times are good times.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Campagnolo has a new line of chainsaws for this application!

[@martinkrautter8325]

Honestly, i prefer the moments when the blowtorch and a 3 ft lever tube gets applied. E.g. to remove some lovely corroded pedals from their cranks... been there, done that.

[@reinholdachleitner2069]

Awesome build and frameset color,how much does it weigh?

[@Prizzly92]

Most newer components does not fit esthetically on an old steel bike. Two things that I on the other hand often change is the brake calipers and the saddle, for safety and comfort.

[@asebaninja]

Great summary, watching this after buying a steel Raleigh and it looks like I was lucky all the specs are good

[@YeisonAndres92]

Suuper bike i love it. ¿ where can i buy this cablestopper?

[@danielsotelo3942]

When I became a Cat-1 pro racer in the late 70s early 80s I did so on a blue/Gold Team Miyata with all Aero Dura Ace.. No other bike even came close. Lived in LA, and worked at Shimano in the San Fernando Valley. I raced mostly in Mexico doing the big race tours which were more Euro style. LOVED THAT BIKE!

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Huge fan of the team. Im looking for one in minty condition. In my size. I will keep that one stock however!

[@vince_unemployed]

What do you call to the thing on dropout? The screw thing?

[@jeffhoward4842]

I’ve built five vintage steel frames up using various flavors of Sram Etap. Each has turned a fine steel frame into a thoroughly modern riding experience

[@joeinglesfield7446]

Couldn’t agree more. The only issue I’ve encountered is the snobbery of the “purists”. Mine’s a 1986 Team Panasonic Raleigh now with (actually functional) Campagnolo Centaur that looks and rides like the nuts

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

That's really cool! I have one in the works myself. My '06 Cinelli. I'm going to put some semi-modern campy on it. Should be a fun build

[@Blocksetter63]

Great video, thanks. One important thing you didn't mention is wheel size. My steeel 1982 Raleigh has 27" wheels rather than 700c (630mm rim rather than 622mm). It's not easy to swap to 700c as it's difficult to get deep drop brakes with the extra 4mm of reach. Also it is relatively simple to use modern brakes on a frame which originally had 'nutted' brakes. The modern front brake has the correct length bolt to use as the rear brake. The short bolt on the remaining brake can be replaced with a longer one for the front.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Thanks. I did fail to mention that. However, I was assuming that if they were putting modern parts on a bike they would be using modern wheels.. All are 700c. Then they have to pick the correct brakes that are compatible with that. You make a great point! Thanks

[@JoshKnobloch]

All of my road bikes(minus the gravel bike) either started their life with me as restomods, or currently do have modern components on them. I think for a bike meant to be ridden, the only thing that matters is that whoever is riding it likes riding it. If modern components keep a bike out on the road, I don't think they can be a bad thing. For one of my bikes, I went about it wanting to use a part from as many decades as possible, along with as many brands as I could fit into it. It's got a sram red groupset, shimano wheels(or rather, it did before I upgraded to a dynamo front hub), campagnolo H11 crankset(the chainline is within spec, I checked), it had suntour superbe brakes with kool stop cross pad holders(I did have to use some washers behind the nuts to comfortably mount the brakes to the frame), SR Royal ESL stem(the hollow one with titanium hardware!), and a Tange Levin CDS headset(30mm stack height - a good solution if your fork is just barely too short, I actually needed spacers for mine). It rides so well I actually converted my other restomod to 2x10 friction shifting, so I didn't have 2 bikes with similar riding experiences.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Wow. crazy diverse bike. Awesome!

[@TheRokko66]

Everything said very good! But when the frame doesnt allows all modern components, then there is always the chance to put a flip-flop hub in the rear, 3mm spacers both sides to get from 120 to 126mm and ride it free or fixed :)

[@peterwillson1355]

My first real bike was a woman's frame bike from the 1940s. My mother got it second hand for her 15th birthday. It originally had a 110 rear for a Sturmey Archer 3 -speed internal gear hub but that was not working by the time I got to it 30 years later. I ran it as a single speed till 1985 when I retromodded it to take a 120, 5- speed derailleur freewheel. I didn't think twice about bending the rear triangle out from 110 to 120 because I didn't know any better but I never had any problems with it. Edit: I don't know how that section of text got a line through it....

[@chriscross5689]

Neo retro vintage, when done right, can look ace.

[@martindelgallego5809]

Very interesting. Steel is so Real. Nothing like it!

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

It sure is!

[@dwaynemcallister7231]

Thx for the info, I had a 1989 Miata 718, it was marketed to the Tri-athlete crowd, Peal White/Black with some Lime/Pink accents, a friend gave me the bike after it had been in his yard 25 years, I went through it but only changed the tire's to 28mm Continental otherwise I liked the indexed downtube shifter's and the brakes were great. The back was Chrome-Moly middle Aluminum and fork Chrome-Moly it felt nice to ride it, unfortunately someone stole it last month, replaced it with a 2009 TRek 520 which is good too but 6 lbs. heavier. The older bikes are interesting, that Miata had incredible paint it was like new after being out doors all those years.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Sorry to hear about the Miyata! that sucks. You went from a Tri bike to a 520 touring. Yes .. much heavier but maybe more comfy on the long rides.

[@kalijasin]

Better question, why would you?

[@danobable]

Hey John! really great video, thanks so much for the advice. I'm looking at buying a vintage KTM, Puch, Favorite or Csepel to upgrade as we have just moved to Hungary. There are probably other brands too that I haven't properly discovered yet, like Masi? Any advice welcome please. :-) I'll email you too. Thanks

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

So many brands! Depending on the type of riding. Your size etc.

[@stevespanos75]

My 1984 Pinarello Treviso is made from ( Columbus - Chrome Moly ) Tubing. Don't ever want to part with it. Have it all apart for total clean up. These steel bikes performed very well. My Colnago was stolen. Amazing Bikes.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Awesome. i have a 86 Treviso in the collection. Its NOS. Too bad its too small for me!

[@martinkrautter8325]

My opinion: Sweet spot for "Resto-Mods" of classic steel frames is 2x9 speed Shimano - you may mix&match the MTB and Road Groups, even Dura ace 9-speed is compatible. Spares/wear parts such as Chains, Cassettes etc.pp are cheap and readily available. Aesthetics - lots of silver / anodized aluminum

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Great suggestions. I'll be building a couple more resto mods soon.

[@patrickcaudill2939]

Thinking about doing this to a mid-80’s Ciocc frame my previous wife rode. Had already back in the day converted rear to index shifting. All remaining components are period Campy Nuovo Record. Just wondering about upgrading the shifting to a handlebar system.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

I was on RAGBRAI and saw a couple bikes like that. The drivetrain and shifting upgraded...the rest was retro.

[@cecilecorpuz5735]

Frames with 120 rear end spacing can be respaced to 126mm, not 125mm, 125mm no such animal, I've respaced several dozen frames sets, but you'll need the proper tools and know how, 1st you'll be in need of a frame alignment gauge this will help with keeping the frameset square and drop out alignment tools, these will keep the rear drops square in not then you'll be having problems down the road and for me I'll also use a HOZAN frame spreading tool as well, of which I will have all 3 tools on hand. Most older high end frames with 120 rear ends were mostly built with Reynolds 531, Columbus SL/SP and TANGE or Isihwata tubing so to say no problem with the respacing of framesets from this era, less of course COLUMBUS KL of which was hardly used, but I will have a 1st gen COLNALGO MEXICO that was built with KL tubing which requires a 27.4 seat post, this is one frame that I would not try to try to respace. Then there's also FRENCH made SUPER VITUS tubing I had a custom built frameset that was built with SUPER VITUS #971 tubing and it was on par with COLUMBUS SL and I think is was a bit lighter as well, and I don't think I would try to respace my SUPER VITUS frameset as well. On the other hand many older French bikes will be with 122mm rear ends. Just my 2 cents worth.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

GREAT ADVICE! I left a link below on video for the "How too" space your frameset. Good catch on the 125vs126. Thanks

[@jam729]

I bend the frame and it works

[@stuartmisfeldt3068]

Campagnolo doesn’t make brifters, Shimano does. Campagnolo calls them Ergos. Most front derailleurs are measured in millimeters just like seat posts and stems.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

You're correct. I use the word Brifters generically.

[@larkinkelly3754]

1985 pinarello montello 2017 super record 11, dt 240 hubs, best riding bike I’ve had and I’ve owned caad 10 and 4 carbon road bikes

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

That's awesome, curious, how are the decals holding up? They're not known to be very durable.

[@H457ur]

I have put full wireless electronic group sets on traditional steel frames. I even had a modern steel Rawland Ravn drilled and gusseted (reinforced holes) to run Di2 wiring internally so it’s very possible even with wired groups if you know someone who can modify the frame correctly (a Rawland has traditional tubing sizes so this isn’t anything exotic.) I’m sure people will wonder why you would do such a thing, but in my case, I have neurological problems that prevent me from actuating mechanical brifters, so it’s really the only way I can ride.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Wow, interesting. So glad you got that to work!

[@cypriano8763]

modded my 88 marinoni to an endurance/gravel bike. put a 50t shimano 10 speed cassette, sram gx mtb deraileur, 1x shimano 105 with a 38t ring. it all works because of the 1 down tube friction shifter. the 28c tire fit, but they are snug unfortunately, 32c would be better.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Wow.. there's a mod right there!

[@billbrandon1697]

i have a pro miyata 1983,,,,the lugs are perfect....someone told me they were built by same group for miyata that made the more expensive Team Miyata...is still have the superbe pro crank...but i built it up as a 35

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

I believe that Miyata built Most Miyata bicycles. The team was Full Shimano Dura-Ace.

[@danielgironcabral9695]

Great video my friend! New sub Nice way to talk and explain!

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Hey! Welcome to the family

[@zygmuntthecacaokakistocrat6589]

You want to put disc brakes onto skinny little chainstays and fork blades? Yeah sure! Let's do that! I'll just burn a hole in them with a welder, and they'll be fine! FFS.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

Definitely not. I would not retrofit discs. I'd stick with the rim brakes.

[@martinmalloy5997]

No you don't cold set any frame. The rear wheel hub has a spindle which has SPACERS. These are there to fill in the SPACE between the cone and the locknut at the end of the spindle. Yes you will have to cut down the spindle. Yes you will have to cut down and re-thread the QR. The wheel can then be built accordingly using the correct width hub spindle.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

I don't agree totally. Yes, sometimes you can respace. HOwever if you want a modern drivetrain you cant respace. You'll have way to much dish in the rear wheel and that would make an unsafe weak wheel. Just say'in

[@robertfontaine3650]

My old '86 Colnago would have some challenges with a lot of the new groupsets. Happily I don't really have any urge to modernize ie.

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

It would be hard for me also to modernize a '80s Colnago!

[@ShaneDeaton]

I'm doing an 8 speed sram group set on a late 80s centurion lemans frameset haven't had any issues yet

[@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage]

That should work well!