Domestic Consumer Units 2024 - Overview, RCBOs, MCBs, AFDDs, Surge Protection

[@electrician247]

Fabulous to see JW back sharing videos again. Always educational and informative

[@rayc1503]

This guy knows his cookies. Great to see you back JW.

[@mrxmry3264]

I would say he knows where his towel is :-)

[@TheChipmunk2008]

@@mrxmry3264 He is indeed a hoopy frood!

[@iamdarkyoshi]

Not completely sure why I keep coming back to these videos, I live in the US. Perhaps your narration style or learning about how different countries do electrical can be intriguing. Regardless, glad to see you back on youtube.

[@TheChipmunk2008]

I watch simon electric, landers electric, etc from the states, partly because of the reason you said, but i used to work there too, (lived in the US for 5 yrs), so I wanna see how it has changed too

[@johnburns4017]

​@@TheChipmunk2008 Watching Simon Electrics, I am amazed at the amount of main switch and circuit breaker burnouts he comes across. Those things are rare in the UK.

[@SparkyNinja]

Great tip about knocking out more holes and inserting the membrane blank things at the initial installation. 10/10 for the insulated green thing. Great video mate.

[@vijayvjn6874]

Thanks for taking the time as always

[@ArcanePath360]

Great special effects on making it look like you interacted with the background. The 3D modelling on that book looked really convincing with the ray tracing and physics engine. Almost had me fooled.

[@eliotmansfield]

the perl book from 90’s was a good touch

[@ArcanePath360]

@@eliotmansfield Yes, the rotoscoped specular lighting on it really sells the shot.

[@bootsowen]

Hi John, I appreciate your videos and the help you have given me in the past: explaining about autotransformers on your variac refurb videos. I learned something today, the fact that afdds exist. cheers.

[@NOSLIWKR]

You and Eric Dollard are the only electricians I listen to and learn from. Thank you and bravo!

[@leehewitt9559]

Another very informative video John - as always.👌

[@-PaulT-]

Nice installation, but you've crossed the tails coming out of the isolator, so I'll have to give you a B+... Great vids John!

[@JohnSmith-vi5pz]

Don't think he couldn't not do that - one cable was too short.

[@ChooseLife.YourLife]

Thank you john ward. I passed on my 17th edition and although im 18th edition now i havent fitted a domestic fuseboard since the 1st ammendment of 18th edition because i work in data centre maintenance now. With this video i feel confident to go back into a home and change a fuseboard again (obviously with proper testing and signing off)

[@StevenMorland]

This man knows what he is talking about my granddaughter she is electrical engineer she always says this man knows the rules of electricity brilliant and fantastic thank you JW fantastic

[@bramcoteelectrical1088]

Always appreciated your videos John as a professional electrican we all never stop learning and you put things across to all views in a simple but imformative way. And even us professional electricans learn from you.

[@mikeZL3XD7029]

Good to see you back, JW, personally I would not wire a new switchboard without at least one main SPD, and RCBO's on each circuit, doing anything else is a complete waste of time and money and given that RCD's are mandated over here for all new circuits, you'll just get yourself in trouble if you don't install them. I do note that AFDD's have been mentioned over here in NZ, but the regulations have not called them yet to be installed, double reason to at least install the RCBO's, as the change (when necessary) will be quite simple.

[@tomgrieveson5705]

How did you replace the plywood board without removing seals.

[@malcolmking7926]

So you are NOT a robot !! Your videos are always factual, informative, to the point and dependable and this is why I watch and enjoy them. Proof enough yo are not AI generated. Happy Christmas John.

[@Mike-hq3oy]

I was somewhat surprised that you didn't appreciate the existence of the isolator in that real installation. Had it not been there, you would presumably have been obliged to arrange for the distributor to pull the main fuse before you could safely remove the old consumer unit, and then to have them return to re-energise the installation after you had installed the new consumer unit. That age-old impractical chestnut!

[@TheChipmunk2008]

SSEN (Our DNO) allow suitably qualified contractors to cut seals and remove the cutout, you have to apply to them and get temp seals, they then come along and re-seal properly at a later date (or generally don't, went back for an EICR on a CU change we did, we gave it 5 yrs due to age of cable, our temp seal was still in place LOL)

[@avantgarde70]

The real OG (Original Gangster) John Ward Flameport Ltd Thanks for your help over the years

[@andysims4906]

I can remember a time when we were supposed to not to use wooden fuse boxes anymore as they were combustible and we had to use plastic consumer units instead. After millions were installed , we were told they had to be metal. It turned out the plastic ones were far more combustible than the wooden ones. What ever next

[@anthonybragg]

I think it's more contain any fire ie the plastic would melt and anything smouldering or on fire would drop onto combustible furnishings

[@James_Bowie]

The UK is nuts.

[@kevvywevvywoo]

dont worry the next regs will stipulate they should be made of marble or possibly woven raffia.

[@Charlie-hz3tk]

@@kevvywevvywoothat is so the woke fraternity can use their ‘underwater basket weaving’ degree to make the suggested consumer units 😂😂😂

[@idi0tdetectioninprogress]

Top man John, crystal clear as always.

[@stevecraft00]

I do wish Wylex would fix the weird numbering of the earth bar. Why does it run left to right?

[@TheChipmunk2008]

One final comment: Nice neat Job John... not that i'd expect any less :)

[@GuyChapman]

I use AFDDs for outside lighting circuits, others have told me this is bonkers, but I have seen a lot of arcing on exterior light fittings over the years.

[@TheChipmunk2008]

never anything bonkers about going above and beyond requirements if you have a good reason for doing so, which you evidently do!

[@anthonybragg]

I like the Wylex legacy of the two screws for the incoming tails the information on the side is a P.I.T.A. no circuit chart? Glade you didn't refute the consumer unit to 16th/17th or 18th board

[@tonywatson1412]

2 screws should be mandatory

[@kevvywevvywoo]

My dads house has a nice polished hardwood MEM Kantark with a lovely hinged lid. Every socket has its own porcelain fuseholder. It's been 100% reliable.

[@Mike_5]

Useful education time from the legend that is JW well worth subscribing / viewing

[@fieldsofomagh]

Progress update is very helpful as to the latest technology available. Good advice free gratis that will prevent DIY disasters in the domestic situation.

[@paultutton9443]

Very interesting John and great to have you back again! There must be a significant proportion of properties (including my own) where all of the circuits are protected by a single 30mA RCD in the CU?

[@TheChipmunk2008]

yes, ours was like that till I upgraded to RCBOs. 2 bed bungalow, only 5 circuits, so not too expensive a job :)

[@Pithead]

Amazing AI video of the greenscreen bookshelf! It looked completely real.

[@andysims4906]

It’s interesting on that Steeple consumer unit. It can be clearly seen the sockets are labelled plugs . Lots of electricians in the old days . Called sockets plugs The plug on the appliance was then called a Plug Top . I hate it when electricians use odd ball cheep consumer units and it takes ages to source new or replacement parts . That’s if you can get them at all.

[@TheChipmunk2008]

Oddly I know the answer to that. Originally the term was 'plug socket' and 'plug top'.... and for whatever reason they got shortened to socket and plug respectively. Oddly the americans still call a plug 'a cord cap' in some official documentation!

[@andysims4906]

@ thanks . That makes sense

[@tonywatson1412]

Lots of parts from same factory. But different names in them..

[@fje1948]

As always many thanks.🙏

[@daves4026]

Great video thank you for sharing

[@Conservator.]

0:40 Taking a book out of that virtual shelf is stellar AI! 😜

[@mrxmry3264]

In my old flat there was an old consumer unit without any RCDs or surge protectors, so they replaced it. The new one has RCBOs and surge protectors. The consumer unit in my new flat has 2 RCDs and a bunch of MCBs but no surge protectors.

[@paulmorrey4298]

Thanks John

[@drcrusherdata]

31:15 the central heating circuit would work fine with a 6A MCB ours is.?

[@jwflame]

Yes it would. 20A is sized for the circuit wiring of 2.5mm², rather than the load connected at the end which is supplied via a 3A FCU.

[@AndyK.1]

@@jwflameI would prefer the 6A mcb tripping rather than having to replace the fuse.

[@blow0me]

@@AndyK.1 overcurrent protective devices are to protect wiring, nothing more.

[@TheChipmunk2008]

@@AndyK.1 Most boiler manufacturers require a 3A fuse, so you'd have to source a 3A breaker and even then, it may result in a warranty rejection because they said fuse, not breaker. But in reality any fault causing the fuse to blow is gonna need a boiler technician or heating engineer anyway (unless it's just a pump, and they tend to take out the rcbo due to earth leakage), so not a biggie

[@mrxmry3264]

The problem with RCBOs is that when they trip, you don't know WHY they've tripped. Was it an overload? Was it a ground fault? How do you know?

[@stevearmstrong1220]

Also, if an RCD does trip and takes out some other circuits, you are more likely to notice it. If a single RCBO trips and your garage with a chest freezer goes out, you might not notice for a couple of days!

[@ColinDH12345]

@@stevearmstrong1220 This is a very practical comment. Always an argument for having a lighting circuit associated with a power circuit or smokes on lighting circuits. One day we'll get a message sent to our phone that an individual circuit has tripped.

[@mrxmry3264]

@@ColinDH12345 "One day we'll get a message sent to our phone that an individual circuit has tripped." that is actually possible today. connect some voltage sensor to the circuit and home assistant can send you a message when the voltage goes down.

[@jwflame]

AFDDs will indicate the type of fault, including if it was the RCD part which tripped.

[@tready2008]

I know with the RCBO in my place if it's the rcd that's tripped there is a red indicator that also shows. If it's an overload or someone switches off the CB it's just stays white.

[@andrewtaylor4627]

I may have missed this but how do you go about sealing the rear apperture where the twin and earth cables enter. I believe it is a requirement toseal to retain the fireproof rating.

[@jwflame]

Grommet strip on the edges of the hole. No requirement to seal that or any other holes in a fireproof way. Accessible openings on consumer units must be IP2X or better, and IP4X or better for the top surface.

[@peterkemp8633]

Thankyou, really enjoyed that

[@TWOKDOK1]

Thanks for the video John - very useful. I seem to remember that the regs specify the height of the CU such that the switches are between 1350 and 1450 millimetres from the floor to provide comfortable access and to keep out of reach of young children??

[@jwflame]

That is a suggestion in Approved Document M, which is one of a set of guidance documents relating to building regulations, most of which would only be applicable to new build or significant refurbishments. Not in BS7671 and never was.

[@TWOKDOK1]

Noted. Thank you for responding.

[@Richardincancale]

16:15 It seems odd that the numbering of the neutral goes right to left and the ground goes left to right!

[@alerighi]

Would be more practical to have RCBO with L/N on the bottom, so you have a busbar that connects both phase and neutral. I see that used in newer installations where I live. You also have the advantage to keep the SPD wiring on the minimum length (what is common in my country is to loop the earth in the SPD, that is come with the main earth at the SPD and then take the earth from there to the rest of the installation.

[@TheChipmunk2008]

I believe schneider do make a board with such a twin busbar arrangement. And yes, bringing the main earth to the SPD first, would make a lot of sense to minimize impedence

[@jtk1ify]

thanks John your videos are simple and clear, a pleasure to learn from you .I did not see it on the book shelf but i feel sure you will have 2001 a space odyssey by Arthur C Clarke.

[@dsesuk]

"Not everything in the world can be perfect". Okay, explain that to my NICEIC assessor who seems to have me on every damn thing on any existing installation I've worked with even if I was never personally involved in the original design and installation, because he seems to think the whole world is by-the-book and I'm doing the idiot touching any of it!

[@Woodkin007]

Seriously mate, just move over to NAPIT, they're on the side of the installer and as long as you're not a cowboy they're really nice guys.

[@itssomuchfun8223]

Hi John Wylex RCBO have aways been bio directional..... I call it double pole LOL great work mate

[@tonywatson1412]

Is that the exact meaning of DP?

[@akdenyer]

Thanks again john

[@mysock351C]

So odd to see the equivalent of a breaker panel here in the US made out of plastic (although this one is metal) and with the breakers and terminals just screwed onto the back. Not that it’s wrong but it’s quite a contrast to the typical large recessed grey metal enclosures with the breakers and what not tucked away inside that we use here in the states.

[@UnimportantAcc]

More expensive options forgo the exposed copper busbar, certainly easier to work in them when live

[@TheChipmunk2008]

Our commercial 3ph panels resemble what you use stateside more. (With 3 rather than 2 busbars obviously). We don't typically use plug on breakers, except for the old federal electric stablok, same as FPE but better at tripping... and crabtree starbreaker boards, which i personally LOVE... NO exposed buswork in the board at all

[@kevvywevvywoo]

many breaker panels in the US are bigger than many of the new houses going up in the UK.

[@NckBrktt]

Still got the 1983 Wylex wired fuse fusebox here . Difficult to replace as it was put inside the meter cupboard when originally installed and little space to put relocation box. Smart meter install guy didn't look too happy when he came to replace the analogue meter. I now have a bigger meter and a supply side isolator so even less space. Might get some rubber boots !

[@ColinDH12345]

Another observation... why do we need an insulated 'green' (nit green/yellow) plastic enclosures for earth connections when there is a braided lea and exposed gas and water pipes right next to it? What does that actually achieve?!

[@jwflame]

They are not needed - they are a tider solution compared to a chunk of metal with exposed screws.

[@stuartchen365]

I never doubted your books

[@devonfuse]

Clever AI effect that, being able to pull an AI book from an AI shelf. Excellent CGI, John!

[@Moonlightshadow-lq4fr]

Bring back fuse wire, the system is so much more reliable and not as sensitive switching off because next door got a compass out! Electricity is not dangerous, people are!

[@carpe1959]

your spd connects to the buzz bar but do some require a seperate mcb to connect it to the power?

[@jwflame]

Yes, some connect via an MCB. Check manufacturers instructions for how they are used.

[@davidpenn2518]

Im not a spark, but there is only 1 16mm bonding from earthing block to consumer unit? Gas and Water 10mm joins into earthing block, then 16mm to consumer unit. Ive seen both water and gas 10mm going straight into consumer unit. If for some reason the 16mm gets damaged from earthing block you loose both gas and water?

[@jwflame]

Green block is the main earth terminal. Silver braid at the bottom is what connects it to the supply cable. 16mm² from the top is the main earth for the consumer unit The 10mm² from the bottom is the bonding to the gas and water. Can be done with the bonding connected to the consumer unit. In this case the bonding was already separate so it's still like that.

[@Ben-gm9lo]

If I may, it sounds like you believe the earthing should be 'done' in the consumer unit. The earthing is actually achieved via the supply cable into the property. So John having his bonding directly to that is the most direct route possible for the bonding to connect to earth. As you rightly intimate, most properties have bonding going into the consumer unit, then a connection from the consumer unit to the supply earth. From the 'points of failure' perspective, John's solution has less chance of failure. I am not a spark either, just a nosey old sod!

[@TheChipmunk2008]

@@Ben-gm9lo I am a spark, and you are right.... tbh you do whatever is easiest and neatest. If the original bonding cables are long enough to reach the main earth terminals, it goes there. If it say goes upstairs (sometimes happens due to routing) and it's been cut short, it goes in the CU

[@TheChipmunk2008]

(oh I'm alsy a nosey old sod :) )

[@9111logic]

Thanks for sharing 🙏

[@simonnicholls6265]

National treasure material

[@Aser6000]

I'm surprised that consumer units with a neutral bus bar haven't become more common yet. Seems like a no brainer to eliminate a lot of the wiring in the unit.

[@asif530]

Nice to see you JW.. so out of curiosity are you a programmer too😂.. you picked the perl scripting book

[@chas3997]

You need to mention double pole ADS divices to protect from neutral earth faults! 😅

[@ColinDH12345]

Great video. Missed your inputs. When do you think we might standardise things like the position of the main switch (MK left, Wylex right, etc.), the order of MCB/RCBO loads, the colour use of SWA and 2-way switching, the colour of the fault indicator (some red, some green... unbelievable), white earth reference leads on early RCBOs but not RCDs, 1 vs 1.5 as the 'norm' for B6 circuits... I could go on. As an industry, we are not very good and rational thinking and simple standards.

[@jwflame]

Never. The good thing about standards is that there is so many to choose from. And if people don't like them, they can make their own standard.

[@TheChipmunk2008]

Much as i usually dislike the NICEIC because they charge too much for not much return, one thing they have done is to try to standardize on the wiring colours at least for SWA ..... black cpc, and grey neutral. It always feels wrong to me when doing the 2 way lighting circuit the domestic way (twin to one switch then 3core to the next) to use the brown as common, as brown should surely be the PERMANENT live, leaving black/grey for the strappers, but most sparks seem to use brown for common no matter the arrangement

[@tonywatson1412]

You can get twin brown. , handy...shows these conductors , may , and can be ,live, when the circuit is energized

[@TheChipmunk2008]

One thing I do wish was more common these days, given EICRs are required every 5 yrs on rentals and recommended every 5-10 for other properties (or whatever time the previous inspector gave it) is a nice handy link on the main earth bar like Tenby used to do, for Ze testing, why is it so rare?

[@wibbley1]

@TheChipmunk2008 TLC used to sell a little earth link bar. I used to put them in a small plastic box to the side of the CU. Seems I was the only person to buy them and when the leccy man turned up to convert to PME, said it was the first one he had ever seen. It could easily be built into the CU, the downside is that it does give another point of failure, if not terminated or the link tightened correctly.

[@davidcoates6768]

Does the SPD have to be protected by an RCD? A lot of youtube vids especially for EV chargers with new mini consumer units have the SPD pre wired into an MCB? Do some brands have to have that?

[@jwflame]

RCds - never. MCBs - some of them require this, depends on the manufacturer of the device.

[@TheChipmunk2008]

To add to what John said, some SPDs include an HRC fuse, those connect direct to the outgoing side of the main switch. Those that don't require an MCB. The reason for never an RCD is by their very nature they WILL divert current to earth in normal operation (well normal for them!) and if they trip off, they stop doing their job for the next transient. And as nobody ever looks at their consumer unit unless something stops working, the homeowner would never know

[@davidcoates6768]

@ thanks for that, built in fuse makes sense

[@nickellingham1764]

I do like 100a main switches with 2 screws per terminal like that. I've not installed a Wylex for quite a long time. Most still have one screw per terminal. Isolators are very handy IMO for changing a consumer unit, or adding others. I've wondered for a while if anyone ever comes across SPDs that have absorbed surges and need replacing? With a complete brand new install, I know there's no need for an EICR, but wondered about consumer unit changes? Can the installation Cert for a CU upgrade negate the need for an EICR in certain circumstances? The testing procedure is much the same it. If you replace all old accessories at the same time as the CU, then it would mean you have dismantled and inspected pretty much every single point - so above and beyond an EICR in a way?

[@Ian78392]

Hi John thank you for another fantastic video. Out of interest what is your thoughts on the crabtree starbreaker range of consumer units? I have always admired the plug in busbar design but at the same time I do not seem to come across many as most electricians where I live tend to opt for hager, fusebox, etc and the crabtree seems an unpopular choice. I'd love to know your thoughts as I am wondering if this is more about cost or lack of trust in the plug in design. Always respect your opinion so thought I would ask!

[@EMEL-hr4ut]

Plug ins get like welded over time. I could not get a failed RCD out of one without breaking it up.

[@TheChipmunk2008]

I love starbreaker, but as EMEL said, sometimes things get stuck, then you have to order a new busbar assembly or fit a new board

[@Ian78392]

Thanks for the replies 👍 I to love the starbreaker range, but it is good to know of the issues regarding the welded connection to the plug in busbar. Maybe for this reason a separate busbar like the wylex consumer unit in this video is a better design as screwing directly onto the busbar creates a better connection.

[@mikenewman9372]

I’ve been fitting Crabtree Starbreaker for decades and really can’t remember any issues regarding welded devices. It’s a fantastic consumer unit although, as mentioned, they were viewed as an expensive option in what’s becoming very low cost base imported market. However, I’ve recently been quoted some extremely competitive prices by my wholesaler in Leeds. £15.00 for a Starbreaker bi-directional RCBO with switched neutral as standard and £65.00 for the 13 way unit and Type 2 SPD. An absolute steal for a quality bit of kit.

[@Ian78392]

​@@mikenewman9372 thanks for sharing, I share your view completely. We have fitted them for years and I have yet to come across such issues but I take the comments on board and will bear this in mind in the future. I think they are cracking consumer units, the reason I posted was I feel we are the only company that seem to fit them in the area we live. But then again at those prices maybe they will become more popular as that is a great price, will have to have a word with our wholesalers!

[@JohnDundee-el2ro]

J.did you say if these RCBOs and AFDDs are double pole and should we always use double pole these wylex boards look ok plenty room

[@jwflame]

They have a switched neutral. Not actually required for most circuits, but such things should be installed anyway.

[@zjzozn]

👍 wow real books 😂 Nice video 👋👋

[@mrxmry3264]

31:08 one of the RCBOs is labelled "NHXS1B20". what do those letters mean? i mean, B20 is obviously the type of the MCB, but the rest?

[@jwflame]

Manufacturer model number.

[@AndyK.1]

Most wylex ones start with NH. XS is that model with that particular busbar connection and lack of din rail latch-in

[@eddiereed5025]

JW please refrain from saying the isolator for the incomer is not necessary we have been fighting for years for this, or suffer the result of getting the DNO to isolate and re-connect the supply if a board change or any other work is required after the meter.

[@TheChipmunk2008]

Yes that did seem a little odd but he's right that it's not technically necessary. TBH we just pull the fuse

[@EMEL-hr4ut]

@eddiereed5025 an isolator is a nice touch on a board change as I use it to attach my tails from my pre made temporary board to keep power on in the house. Obviously I could stick the existing consumer unit tails into my temp board's isolator but saves faff as you have to undo the consumer's isolator anyway. Saves cable for installer as only have to go to isolator if running in new tails. No going near the meter if existing tails have to be changed. Isolators are usually well located and are usually newish so nice to run new meter tails into. I like to have my new consumer unit tails in the board on arrival so an isolator to run them into is nice. On safety for board changes if you pull the main fuse you are supposed to remove the fuse from it's holder and put back in the empty cartridge and then put the fuse back in later. What a faff.

[@lawnmower1066]

0:40 I would of picked up the yellow book further along to the right, the one called 'Can You Believe Your Eyes' 😂

[@radbot1]

I have a question. At 24:13 you show a sticker with the various different faults. That's a great feature of these however, why does it say "over voltage"? Isn't that what a surge protector looks for? This leads me to guess that "over voltage" really means "over current", as there wasn't any actual indication of over current on that sticker. Thanks again for your invaluable content.

[@AndyK.1]

The sticker says >265V, so I doubt its a mistake. Maybe the overcurrent device isn't linked to the processor. Surge protectors protect peaks of overvoltage, they can't protect a continuous overvoltage. Do I assume the Wylex device shuts down the circuit if 265V is detected. Now that is cleaver.

[@radbot1]

@AndyK.1 I think the surge protector also protects from about 275v, so if the afdd protects against roughly the same voltage, is the surge protector redundant? Also, how would you know if it tripped on over current? Would it be no light on at all? That's the same fault code as "no input voltage". Sorry for any noobishness on my part, afdds are still pretty new to me!

[@AndyK.1]

@ Surge protector is for surges/peaks. I don’t know TBH. Have a look at David savory videos. There is an old video where he fits these wylex to all his circuits in his house. There are newer videos where he tests different brand AFDDs and you can see the LEDs doing there stuff. You will love it

[@radbot1]

@@AndyK.1 Thank you for the recommendation, will check it out. Thanks again 👍🏻

[@AndyK.1]

@ Title is: £1300 AFDD consumer unit.

[@TheChipmunk2008]

John, what is 'the phone book' you have there? As a geek of telephony I may be interested :)

[@jwflame]

History of the corrupt monopoly telephone system in North America, 1976. www.amazon.com/phone-book-telephone-company-rather/dp/0809280086

[@edc1569]

Still don’t understand why the neutral isn’t also on a bus bar.

[@blistiff]

Hi John you mention that a T2 SPD is not appropriate for a TT installation. Can you explaining the reason please 🙏.

[@jwflame]

Most TT supplies are overhead which requires a T1 SPD.

[@blistiff]

@jwflame what about TN-C-S that is supplied by overheads? Would that require a T1 also?

[@TheChipmunk2008]

@@blistiff Yes, it's the overhead part that requires T1 due to lightning transients

[@blistiff]

​@TheChipmunk2008 most rural supplies go overhead at some point. What is the determination?

[@Conservator.]

3:19 Im afraid I have to disagree with you somewhat here. I think it’s better to give functional requirements than solutions as there may be other suitable solutions (in the future). Doing otherwise may be unnecessarily limiting. I do agree that the term ‘non-combustible’ is too vague and should have been specified, preferably, and as you’ve mentioned, by referring to a standard.

[@جواد-ص8ظ]

❤❤❤❤❤

[@wibbley1]

Nothing wrong with a split load board. RCBOs from good named brands are just too expensive for the average house install. Sure, give the customer the choice, but would they prefer an MK (ok I know their stuff is now chinese made, but at least they QA it all in the UK) or a chinese-electric RCBO board?

[@jwflame]

RCBOs are less than £20 for most manufacturers including MK, Wylex, Hager, BG, Contactum and plenty more. If that's too expensive for someone, then they can't afford a new consumer unit or anything else.

[@maygarland6123]

why steel? Aluminium makes much more sense as is non ferrous and no eddy current. Also isnt it just a matter of time before we go back to plastic as fire-proof plastic has existed for some time and is used extensively in fire suppression (sprinkler systems) for some time

[@jwflame]

Steel was the material which the committee of people writing that regulation chose to fit with their agendas.

[@tonywatson1412]

Is aluminum and copper compatible ​@@jwflame

[@peternorman2563]

Lots of books on the shelves but unfortunately never read ?

[@Ibrahim-vt2tz]

Electric King talking again❤

[@nova3uk969]

I have a weird itch to see JWW and David Savery having a conversation entirely made up of article numbers out of the IET handbook.,

[@TheChipmunk2008]

And beer and coffee. While their styles are utterly different, both John and Dave are thoroughly excellent sparkies, have learned a lot from both and I've been in the trade since 1989

[@pdken3081]

Brilliant the way you can interact with that AI generated background. Whatever next?

[@leeedwards3783]

Always love when you drop a new video. My go to when looking into electrical stuff. Afdd's are rather expensive. Thanks for sharing

[@TheChipmunk2008]

I see the same effect happening as with rcbos... when/if the 19th requires them, the price will plummet. Some is economy of scale, some is simple price gouging

[@adrianthorpe8005]

i only use wylex on domestic must be age thing

[@markhodgson2348]

Paid by the word

[@goldenboy5500]

I find it quite interesting as how little amperage is used in the UK compared to North America's 15, 30,A @ 125V 40 & 60A @250V lines and incoming is 80A @ 230V compared to our 200A @ 250V 2 phase

[@bradallen8909]

Domestic power in North America is NOT 2 phase. It’s 250V, centre-tapped. Big difference.

[@jwflame]

Most UK properties have gas heating and no AC, so total demand is low. The property in the video has a 60A 230V supply.

[@James_Bowie]

JW sporting a mullet?

[@thedon7536]

The only gripe with new regs is they won’t metal fuseboard ? But you can extend in plastic expansion box ? , should call you professor 👍👍👍👍

[@TheChipmunk2008]

it's only switchgear that requires a metal enclosure, yet bizarrely the separate isolators are still plastic enclosures, i'd argue that's switchgear. But i'm not a guy who makes up standards LOL

[@mikenewman9372]

Noticed you referenced the older NHXB MCB which had the open cage busbar connection point. These were redesigned about 7 years ago so now all Wylex MCB’s/ Miniature RCBO’s and AFDD’s have a shield blocking half of the cage off as you tighten it, so there’s no chance you can misconnect the busbar to the device. Wylex have also dramatically reduced their pricing down to the imported low cost brand range. I was quoted an 11 way unit + SPD and 8 bi directional/ switched neutral RCBO’s for £158.00, that was cheaper than Fusebox and a far better quality product. I was offer the Crabtree Starbreaker at the same price as well and chose that one, cracking value.

[@mrxmry3264]

why do i get a german title for an english video? man, youtube keeps screwing up worse and worse :-(

[@jwflame]

Just wait until automatic dubbing becomes widespread on YT videos.

[@mrxmry3264]

@@jwflame alerady happened :-( not so long ago I clicked on a German video and I got the audio in English - ARGH! Trust youtube to eff everything up!

[@e5Group]

I’m a big fan 🫡👍💪