Joe’s Garage 383 Engine Rebuild Part 2 - Piston Installation

I Let Joe take over my camera to follow his Chrysler 383 build over the past few weeks, we want to bring you the tips and tricks of rebuilding this Big Block.
In this second episode Joe will guide you through the process of reinstalling the pistons into the block of this Chrysler 383 Engine.

[@dannychiguina3962]

Great 👍 job guys

[@jimlucas6283]

Nice!

[@scatpack68]

did you confirm the .009"-.017" rod side clearance before disassembly or during assembly?

[@chickscaribena8517]

So you installed the old piston rings ???

[@mikeroberts5646]

Once again a video without explanation,when you put rings on a piston what is the rule,why space t hem a1/3 apart,are there markings such as dots ,you had them in a plastic bag so which is the first which is the second compression ring ,what about checking end play between rods Did the Rings scratch any of the rod bearings while they were in the bag,these are important questions

[@mynameis9057]

when you install the piston rings, aren't you supposed to make sure the gaps don't overlap so you don't get blow bye ?

[@ric0000]

Yes, This is explained at 3:35 during the video.

[@VochoTalacha]

woah woah woah Doesn't the pin on the piston have a clip on each side? I don't know these engines too much, but my common sense says they should.

[@ric0000]

good eye! They are actually press pins, so they are pressed in, no clips. I thought that was unusual too.

[@ThePaulv12]

Many pistons have press fit gudgeon pins. The type you're thinking of are floating pins.

[@johnnyzee383]

Why on earth are you putting those cast low compression pistons back in the motor??...for a reasonable amount of money , you could put decent pistons back in. Your cranking compression after putting the motor back together with these slugs will be around 120 pounds. Cant build a HP motor especially a short stroke motor like the 383 with no compression.

[@mikeroberts5646]

Your also not letting us know the correct way to put your rod caps on ,not all are marked

[@paintnamer6403]

Mixing rod caps, installing rods backwards at the worst will grenade the bottom end. I was lucky, when torquing the rod caps my engine got harder to turn over, had mixed up front and back caps,some of the bore numbers were barely visible on the rods. So notch on the piston to the front, dot on the rings to the top, the small v notch at the rod and cap for oiling to the out side of the cylinder bore (outside of the V). Just make sure everything turns evenly. In high school '78, a few of us knuckle heads thought the tighter to turn the better. NOT! Max rod side clearance will let the oil out faster to avoid cooking it, spinning the bearing then throwing the rod(s).

[@jamesseaman6919]

Surely you’re not going to use that piston! It’s got a big hicky on the edge of it ! Aren’t you worried about pre-ignition? I would be!