CRITICAL Information You NEED to Know to Single Point Successfully. DON'T MISS THIS ONE !!

[@ThePsiclone]

I've been steadying this channel since that first threading video. DOH...not steadying...FOLLOWING!

[@pontoonrob7948]

This deserves a pinned! Hilarious!

[@professordeas1902]

Those who do not learn from Joe Pie are condemned to repeat his mistakes.

[@Toolmaker001]

I'm a Toolmaker by trade. Love this guy. I've watched so many Wanna be machinist KZbin vid's just to get a laugh. Just listen to this man he is taking the time to give you true machinist knowledge. It takes years and years to become this knowledgeable in this trade. I've been in tool & Die for 27 years. My earlier years were years spent doing 10 hr day's manual machining so I'm qualified to say this man knows his shit !

[@joepie221]

Many thanks for the endorsement my friend. Much appreciated.

[@seanmcdonnell1282]

The inverted, left to right threading technique is probably my most frequently used handy tip I've every gotten. Many pairs of shorts saved by not having to hit that half nut before crashing.😆. Thank you for all of the great info.

[@joepie221]

Happy to share. Pass it on.

[@vitesseguy]

Your first video was fantastic. It showed your understanding AND you teaching giftedness. It's great to see that you've consistently "upped your game" over these years. No small feat. Praise God for his gifts to you and thank you for sharing so generously!

[@ericsteel7643]

Joe, you are the kind of shop teacher our schools are missing in this day and age. your tutorials are a gem in themselves. Fantastic video :)

[@joepie221]

Thanks.

[@JohnDoe-ls2ww]

@ericsteel7643 Aren’t schools missing shop class completely?

[@NellsMechanicalManCave]

Joe ! Firstly, I need a squeaky pen to be like you 😁 Secondly, the information you give is priceless! The insight into machining is priceless to me. When I first commented a few years ago when I first had a lathe you replied and you've never stopped helping or commenting. That's what makes you special. Individuals on here get big and lose contact with their core subscribers, people at the base level, you haven't. Get well soon mate, all the best from Wales UK

[@joepie221]

I get a lot of comments but try my best to keep in touch. Thanks for your support.

[@joerogi8401]

Joe, You got a great reason to just sit back and take things easy but here you are, thanks for that. When I first had to teach groundschool I was assigned aviation regulations to teach. It would absolutely have been my last choice. In the first few classes we had several students going through the course for the second or third time and I was very encouraged by complements of my teaching especially considering that I was replacing one of the best in our industry. One student finally said "Jack taught us WHAT the regulations are but you teach us WHY the regulations are ". I've always found it easier to remember things if I know the WHY. Joe Pi does the WHY. Hey, maybe there's another t-shirt in there for Presso. Cheers and thanks Joe.

[@christoph72761]

The sign of a good teacher: Something that was not obvious, suddenly is. Thank you Joe! 👍

[@kenluning909]

Nice presentation. I had a great old school shop teacher that took the time to do just what you are doing here, many years ago. These days when threading goes wrong not many folks have the ability to troubleshoot the finer details of how "movements cause reactionary forces" in machining.

[@joepie221]

They are always present and should be understood. Makes troubleshooting mush easier.

[@johnjenkins2315]

I was going to say ‘most’ but I won’t because I believe ‘all’ machine shop practices come down to common sense. I don’t think I’ve ever seen anyone of your presentations that hasn’t shown that factor Joe. Nice work, keep ‘‘em coming

[@marlobreding7402]

It's insane that this technology has been around since 250 BC when Archimedes invented his now-famous screw. Keep up the good work I love watching you build stuff. I was an auto technician for most of my adult life but for a year-and-a-half starting in 1971 I worked at Bennett Respiration as a machine operator. I ran a french-made screw machine for a. It sounded something like Cry Dan. I ran a twin spindle collet turret lathe finishing. .0002" tolerance shaft on the Sigh Valve. I measured it on both a Optical Comparator and a pair of ruby jewels with metered air.

[@deadaccount6135]

@Joe Pie I like how you gave a good, clear, explanation on how center lines work. When I sold hardware, nuts, bolts, for Home Depot it was often difficult to explain to people the difference in shape of threads and how a nut screws on. Like squared off automotive threads will accept a normal nut but the threads won't mesh fully or correctly and the slop will cause part failure.

[@jdmccorful]

Never thought about it this way. Thanks for the different approach.

[@passenger6735]

I've watched ALL of your videos Joe. Some twice, others three or four times. Maybe that's an indication of my learning abilities but the way in which you explain things makes it 'obvious' why a method will work or doesn't work. That's what I like. I can't count the number of times Ive watched a lesson and said to myself 'Well, that's obvious'. It IS. But only once it's been demonstrated. I'm just delving into the world of CNC machining now and I'm extremely fortunate to have a friend who, like you, makes things obvious. Thank you for taking time to produce these informative videos. I always take something away even if it's confirmation that what I am doing is OK.

[@joepie221]

My pleasure. Thanks for the support.

[@samrodian919]

So true. Only obvious after Joe has pointed it out!

[@kevinh.9068]

You absolutely have to have some form of follow rest to turn those small diameter threads. I actually built that same style follow rest you used in your videos awhile back. Thanks for the tip.

[@peteengard9966]

I have also learned that you can't count on round stock to be round. Many times you get the old egg shaped round stock especially in the smaller diameters. Rolling it on a surface plate or even the bandsaw table is a great tip.

[@joepie221]

Assume nothing and you'll never be disappointed.

[@carlwhite8225]

Joe, I recently struggled with this same issue. watched this video and rechecked my material and yup, you were correct, will remake the part tomorrow with a better piece. thanks Joe.

[@MajesticByBirth]

25 years as Journeyman Tool and Die Maker, and I still watch your videos to learn new techniques. You're simply the best teacher ever! Thank you!!

[@joepie221]

Thank you. Glad you find them valuable.

[@joem9380]

Hey Joe, just wanna say so glad you decided to make these videos and I'm glad I found you. That threading video was the first video I saw - I wasn't able to thread like that because of my lathe - but I sure improved my threading and much more from watching your videos ( and other people's too). I typically enjoy the practical projects that you suggest we make. Thanks for all that you post.

[@tomherd4179]

You always amaze me with your "deep" incites into the physical relationships involved in machining. Knowing how to do something is great, but understanding what is going on is your gift to us - THANKS!

[@erikisberg3886]

You really have a knack for teaching, well explained. Even if You sort of know this it is easy to forget and screw up... I really liked the video on the phenolic follow rest support with the in situ machined hole. Used that idea several times. Made an adaptor for my usual follow rest that takes a small piece of phenolic on the brass tip, worked really well. Advantage is that the support can be tweaked a little with the adjustment screw on the follow rest. Phenolic is a underrated material as a bearing and gear material. Main gear in my Arboga drillpress is a made of phenolic cloth composite. The material absorbs just the right amount of oil to make a good bearing surface and also reduces vibration.

[@mburham1]

Had to thread a little 5/16-40 part for a Jerry Howell engine, die wasn’t going to come quick enough. Flipped the tool upside down like I’ve seen you do on your videos so I wouldn’t crash, and spent the rest of the day giggling because it came out better than sliced bread and got tighter than I would have managed with a die. Great content thanks!

[@joepie221]

Outstanding.

[@Duckfarmer27]

Joe - Really enjoy your videos. I'm an old retired mechanical engineer who likes to work wood, bash metal and mess with old cars in retirement. In the process I'm trying to improve my skills and knowledge. Along the way I'm trying to teach my two grandchildren (11 and 13) how to work with their hands. This is another good video that can help explain things to them - in this case the components of a force vector. Keep up the good work, it is really appreciated.

[@joepie221]

Thanks 👍

[@JohnDoe-mn2hy]

Thanks for the lesson, great information! 👍 For all who had a problem with the „tire“, think of an edgefinder on the mill and what it does by contacting the surface. That’s what happens when the tool touches…

[@4GSR]

One thing I do when cutting/chasing long threads using the follower rest. I leave the live center in your tail stock loose on the end of the part so any runout in the bar is kept concentric at the follower rest. This seems to let you cut a thread with less chatter and keeps a consistent depth of cut, too. When I say runout, less than .002/.003". I try to avoid bar stock with more runout than that. Usually use T,P, & G when i can get it. If I have to turn it down, I rough it to near size, let it cool down. Then set up carefully and start to finish turning to near size, check my concentricity, adjust if necessary, and finish turning. Thanks for sharing, Joe, Ken

[@mattomon1045]

Get well soon! thankyou for your teaching us

[@aceroadholder2185]

Joe's explanation of the thread error caused by the difference between the center of the stock and the lathe's spindle is another reason to follow your reference book's O.D. dimension call out for the thread you are cutting. This given diameter is smaller than the nominal size of the thread. Unless the stock is badly bent or out of round, turning the called out diameter will usually avoid the problem Joe describes. The follow rest is your friend to prevent work deflection for long and/or small diameter stock to be threaded. There are several ways to skin this cat. A steady rest with a Vee brass support can be made that clamps to the tail stock quill. It may support the work well enough to avoid the follower rest. On some lathes you may be able to do this from the head stock (now you know what those line-bored holes in the head stock above the spindle are for on very old lathes. It's to hold the bar for the overhead steady rest that uses a Vee or shaped support like Joe illustrated). This style of rest has the advantage of being able to move the tool from one side of the steady rest to the other without having to deal with unbolting and moving a steady rest mounted on the bed of the lathe to the other side of the carriage cross slide. Following Joe's advice here about faulty threads is really important for Class 3 threads that have long engagements. You turn the threads and all measures well The parts will start to go together just fine and then the fit-up gets worse and worse till they bind up completely. Cheers from NC/USA

[@lesgaal4017]

Joe another lesson full of information especially to home hobby Machinests, have been watching your channel for along time. I to was taught to thread away from the head stock as an apprentice fifty years ago, it is just so easy and a safe work practice my appretices said at trade school the teachers said it was wrong way until my boy showed them how well it works. I'm retired now but enjoy your videos very much God bless from down under.

[@VKC83]

Greetings Uncle Joe✌🏻, that sharpie chatter😬😂..... just kidding. I learned these lessons well when I had to make a lead screw for a TOS boring mill, had to make the nut too. Lead screw was EN8 n nut was aluminium bronze. The total lead screw length was 1.8m but only 1.4m of thread on it, was 7mm pitch trapezoidal on a 45mm dia. if my memory doesn't fail me. Was hell n fun at the same time😂🤣.

[@sundarAKintelart]

Excellent. Explicit. Thanks

[@themachinist8927]

So I've been a machinist for 15 years and we always start with a larger piece of stock and turn the major diameter to size so the material is straight and true before ever cutting the first thread. The only material that we might ever thread without turning first is PSQ bar (pump shat quality) but usually the major diameter would be to big for the thread to be cut so once again we would turn it the proper major diameter.

[@joepie221]

Concentricity is necessary. Some just don't understand that. But, you can always make the thread grosely undersize to make it work. :)

[@bobreese8831]

Great teaching, Joe! I’m always amazed at what I learn from your videos. Well done, sir!!

[@robertoswalt319]

These videos are better than a book for me because I learn better when I can see and hear the information explained. Thank you Joe for these great videos and all of the time you sacrifice from your work and family to make them. I hope you are able to return to the shop soon. Best wishes to you and your loved ones.

[@joepie221]

Many thanks.

[@davidmyhre2720]

Hey Joe thank you sir. Good to see you again.

[@orangetruckman]

Good stuff sir. Maybe for us new to the hobby could get you demonstrating how to properly setup and use a follow rest? I’ve watch your steady rest video and it was awesome! I haven’t really seen any proper follow rest videos though 💁🏼‍♂️ just a thought 🤗 As a side note, I throughly enjoy the way you make videos.

[@daveknowshow]

well that explained a couple of my failed threaded parts. thanks for sharing this.

[@johnantliff]

I also have a lead screw to make that is long and thin I would very much appreciate you giving some instruction on precisely how to organise the steady rest in relation to the cutting of the thread, in this case, an 8 tpi ACME thread over 3 feet in 3/4 inch stock. Whilst I have not heard of detail of your medical condition I take it from your comment that you have not been in the best of health so I wish you a speedy and full recovery and I look forward to more video gold from you.

[@joepie221]

Thank you. My health is fine, but my achilles needed to be cut for a heel procedure, so walking is almost impossible. I'm getting there.

[@samrodian919]

Joe I hope your Achilles trouble gets sorted and you are able to walk and stand without discomfort or worse very soon mate! Regards from the UK

[@ME-pb2gf]

You need a follow rest with bronze tips. One thing I like to do is use a flat tool that is the maximum width of what will be the valleys first. Make a couple passes to get 5 or 10 thou deep. Then sand/file the burr off. Reset your acme tool to the center of the groove and finish the thread. If you don't do this you'll get a burr on every cut that wears the bronze tips on every pass forcing you to constantly adjust.

[@johnantliff]

@@ME-pb2gf Thank you for that tip. I was wondering how to avoid chewing up the steady tips, I am contemplating using ball races for the tips but that would still not avoid the burr problem!

[@samrodian919]

@@ME-pb2gf I did something similar with aluminium but it wore something awful and basically I had to adjust and adjust until I got to full depth (0.060”) but it did work. Next time I will try phenolic plates and will use your suggestion as to avoiding the burrs. Thanks for that suggestion.I dread to think what the cost of bronze would be25 wide by 12 thick and no doubt at least 300 long. Would probably be more than the cost of a new lead screw lol

[@ArmchairDeity]

Been missing you man… I was so happy we got to unloosen some things today!!

[@joepie221]

Not 100% yet, but I'm trying.

[@earlhuff7847]

Great video. It's kind of common sense but I get some weren't blessed with alot of it. Thanks

[@ChrisB257]

Great points Joe - and for sure, often overlooked. Thanks :)

[@steveallarton98]

Brilliantly succinct explanation of the real world in the workshop ! The initial statements about co-axial centre lines of material, thread helix, and machine, are something that seems to be missed elsewhere . . . . Take care in nursing that ankle ! Kind regards, Steve A.

[@rexmyers991]

Thanks, Joe. Continue to heal.

[@captcarlos]

Good to hear from you Joe. And on one of your favourite subjects too! Keep well yourself.

[@KW-ei3pi]

Ok, it's been 6 years of awesome videos and some of the most useful machining info on KZbin, or probably anywhere for that matter! Congratulations Joe. But it's WAY PAST time to get some sound treatment for the walls, ceiling, etc. of the office/white board area. The sound quality of the the footage shot in this area is TERRIBLE !!! Sound quality is just as, or more important as, the video quality. Thanks, Joe

[@TomokosEnterprize]

After a number of threading failures in school I finally figured it out. First off, RELAX, this is done all over the big blue ball in space every day. Once the count has been confirmed don't mess with the different options on the threading dial. Pick a major line/number and stick with it. Keep it simple and enjoy the experience. LOL, All is well ? your pen is in pain bud, LOL. I have never had a situation like at 6:30. I would think the tailstock has lost contact. Ruger is my choice over many years I have a 338 custom Lapua and 5 other #1's in the safe. Sniper trained in the Canadian Navy they are my choice for rugged strength and reliable simplicity. There ya go. Another thing we share in common. This will help folks understand the physics involved with turning threads. Esp those tiny ones you do so well. I learned a thing or 5 watching you make those impossibly small threads in the mini machine shop builds. Take care Joe. It is always great to see what you are up to eh.

[@sharstool2251]

Thanks for the video Joe! Reminding us that sometimes the solution may have been obvious from the get go and gets overlooked or taken for granted.

[@jackbonanno8186]

Great commentary on the note of deflection and possibly irregular material. I never considered that to cause the problems I've encountered on long threaded parts.

[@joecnc3341]

Thanks Joe. Always educational. Please post a link to your blog so that we can know why you're not going out into your shop?

[@DannyJackson2529]

Click on his name and it will take you to his KZbin channel. At the top scroll across to where it says community and click that.

[@kolbroshop884]

Thank you for the video. I have recently cut the thread using the method of flipped tool, and travel away from the chuck, that i learned from your previous videos. It worked awesome. Keep up with the sharing, learned a lot from you by now...

[@rgsparber1]

Great video! I continue to be enriched by your clarity of mind and effective teaching style. Get well soon.

[@joepie221]

Thank you! Will do!

[@ironworkerfxr7105]

Nice tip Joe, making a fixture for the stock profile on the Follow Rest !!! Thank you..

[@joepie221]

If its a nominal size, put an end mill in the collet and just feed the carriage to the cutter for a nearly perfect nest.

[@andyZ3500s]

Good information as always, I'm sure glad that you decided to make that threading video six years ago.

[@joepie221]

It took on a life of its own after that one.

[@wayngoodman3099]

Andy Zulim - so are 1000’s of others of us!! 👍🤟🏻

[@jerseyjoe2684]

Well said, Joe. You are a natural at teaching. "Follow Rest" 😉

[@johnferguson2728]

Thank you Joe. Hope you will be able to walk out to the shop soon. Hope your recovery is going well.

[@joepie221]

Coming along nicely John, thanks.

[@joken8901]

that make perfect sense....ive never thought about it that way before thanks for enlightening me ....👍

[@joepie221]

Glad to help

[@pontoonrob7948]

I wish... I wish I had found your lessons 30 years ago. I would have figured out a way to convince you that me working for free and learning would have been a good deal for you. Being 50 now I doubt I can find a way to start another career. I'd rather figure out a way to live my last few on a sailboat. You are a heck of a teach. I really love the white board and the math. I just did not know this career existed when I chose to turn wrenches for a living. Yeah, the parts showed up all machined but I just didn't put two and two together

[@thingmaker3]

I'm just taking a wild guess here, but.. maybe (maybe) the shear at the mill throws the stock further out of "ideal." Maybe a bar is more straight in the middle because the middle is farther from the last stress the bar experienced. Maybe. Or not.

[@al69770-b]

Great vid thanks Joe, the bent stock wasn't something I had considered. 👍 And with that 'unloosen' was like you were never even Mia! 😂👍

[@MrRaynemaker]

Great information, I actually understood what you were talking about. Thank you.

[@MartsGarage]

Thanks Joe, that was very interesting. I have been dabbling with threadcutting and am always willing to take advantage of your expert knowledge. Cheers! Mart in England.

[@johnsushchyk7933]

Thank you for your help . It is so educational n enjoyable

[@Enigma-Sapiens]

Thanks, Joe, the knowledge is much appreciated!

[@hatersaywhat8986]

Speaking of straight, I have a 9” SB lathe. I tried getting it to cut straight but it always was out of straight when done. Come to find out the lathe bed is bowed in. I took the bed in to get it grounded flat but the machinists said they couldn’t do it and it would cost way to much. Why? I’ve talked to 3 different companies and all say the same, it’s not worth it even if I tell them I won’t hold them accountable if it gets trashed. Even so, the answer is no… why? No explanation, they won’t even look at it. So I waited till I found another bed, but that’s not flat either. I can’t use a big lathe for my hobby, and a cheap grizzly machine has cost more fixing it then anything else

[@jeremymathews5228]

Basically the amount of time it would take to fix it would cost you more than to replace it, so it isn't worth fixing is why they wont touch it would be my guess.Or maybe those lathes have a history and people stay away from them, that could also be a reason.

[@MegaRiffraff]

Look at some of the monarch EE lathes , their small but have a good reputation .

[@machinemaker2248]

It might be that there's internal stresses that will be released as material is removed, so it will just skew in a different direction and they'd have to start all over again, only to have the same problem after each cut.

[@machinemaker2248]

Possible solutions: Make a cut, document the error at each inch, and then compensate for the error with interpolated adjustments each inch. This might be very difficult on a manual. Put new ways over the old ones using linear bearings, with epoxy between so the new ways stay straight when you tighten the screws to hold them down. This probably also requires you to make a new saddle, too. Scraping/sanding/lapping. Many tutorials on KZbin. Very tedious and labor intensive, but could improve your results for pretty cheap.

[@ypaulbrown]

I saw you laughing when you said 'un-loosen', that was so funny, cheers, Paul

[@ccw56]

Thanks Joe as always another great video I always learn a lot from you Thanks Chris NZ

[@garthbutton699]

Thanks Joe,you have a nack for giving a lot of us that aha moment and you ride miss it this time🤗😎🤗😎

[@Strider396]

Great presentation that is much needed to advance the quality of the art and perfection of machining! I very much want to use the chuck to tail-stock method of single point threading but would like some advice on how to do this safely with a lathe chuck that is threaded to the spindle so the chuck will not unscrew itself from the spindle during this process. Thanks for the expert fabulous lessons you provide.

[@joepie221]

Glad it was helpful!

[@craigsuslosky3974]

Great information, as always. Hope you feel better soon!

[@maximilianzamboni1117]

Thank you as always!

[@corystewart6190]

Threading is always an interesting topic. Thanks Joe.

[@ericmcclelland7942]

Amazingly educational. Thank you

[@joepie221]

Thanks for checking Eric. I hope all is well.

[@eddiehayes2388]

Joe you have taught me so much. Thank you.

[@lohikarhu734]

*ALWAYS* look forward to your videos! ? It took me 43 minutes to catch this one ;-) BTW, it often amuses me when I see people fighting with 'standard' threading into inside bores, or with tight spacing to the chuck... i wonder why more people have not 'caught on' ??

[@joepie221]

Inverted reverse threading is much lower stress. They really should try it.

[@nakedshorts6784]

Thanks for the info. I have a project I'm working on where I have to cut a 16 spline 1.75 inch shaft which are not 90 degree. It's a one time deal. There is not much on here to guide the manual guy on how it can be done. I think allot of guys, myself included on here really appreciate your take on any machine process. Spline lesson please? Rudy.

[@bulletproofpepper2]

Thanks Joe! Stay safe!

[@MaxWattage]

Thanks Joe, always appreciated.

[@greglaroche1753]

I remember your video on reverse threading first came out. Has it really been that long? Thanks for all your informative videos. Please keep them coming.

[@BensWorkshop]

Many thanks, hope you get well soon.

[@9z4clb]

Another great video Joe. Thanks again for taking the time to impart your knowledge to us.

[@williammills5111]

Thanks, Joe. Short but sweet.

[@maitajack]

Excellent vidéo. I learned something very useful. Many thanks

[@cpcoark]

Good explanation Joe. I've been doing upside down and backwards threading ever since I saw your video. Except for left hand threads :-)

[@joepie221]

Left hand threads can be done the same way. Keep the tool upright and thread out. Machine in forward.

[@doughibberd1576]

You can thread left to right for all threads, right hand, left hand for both external and internal threading. No stress.

[@colinweir5807]

I don't know if you take on apprentices but I'm sure they would learn more from you than they would in many other workshops.

[@joepie221]

I've trained many over the years. Its satisfying to see the light go on.

[@sharg0]

Couldn't agree more! A common cause of deformation of slender parts is also to high or to low pressure from the tailstock (to high - makes the part bow in the middle, to low and it wont give the support needed towards the end). A steady rest wont help with the "to high" issue but it will improve things for the "to low" scenario. So while steady rest can be a pain to setup they make it worth it in the end. (this pain is significantly reduced by using it often)

[@joepie221]

Steady rests are OK once you get used to them, but follow rests must be rigid to be effective. If it flexes, don't bother.

[@Preso58]

Thanks Joe. Good tutorial. Succinct and logical presentation.

[@joepie221]

Thanks Mark.

[@billythebake]

First, Rick Sanchez is The MAN 2nd, love Rugers - 2nd pistol I bought was a well-worn 1950's Standard, that worked great after removing a literal teaspoon full of lead and powder "gak" from inside it Most recent was a Blackhawk in .30 Carbine (yes, muzzle flash and recoil are noticable...) Keep up the great work!

[@joepie221]

My Ruger 45 is the most accurate 45 I own. It puts rounds right where you aim it. Everytime.

[@kevinbelcourt8271]

Thanks Joe! You have a great way of explaining things. Thanks for the great content!

[@joepie221]

My pleasure!

[@janvanruth3485]

i never ever have cut a thread that matters on a piece of stock that was not turned to diameter before cutting the thread.....

[@johnspathonis1078]

Hi Joe. I took your advise and just ordered a LH insert holder so that I can do invereted threading (threading away from chuck). However I have found that EL inserts are not that popular. (Also you mentioned spiral staircases. Spiral staitcases are mostly helical staircases. Spiral staircases have a changing radius.) Cheers

[@joepie221]

My holders take top notch inserts.

[@johnspathonis1078]

@@joepie221 Thanks Joe. I have a Kennametal distributor near me. Cheers.

[@Rcmetal]

Excellent work Joe.

[@bradlilly8603]

Thanks Joe I have learned a ton off this channel

[@johnm840]

Got points as expected. Had not thought about that before.

[@christurley391]

Thanks for the video Joe.

[@braxtonec]

Thanks for the lesson even while on the mend!

[@joepie221]

Presented standing on one foot. :)

[@outsidescrewball]

Great discussion…tks

[@ypaulbrown]

always great to watch your videos Joe, well done and thank you from Florida, Paul

[@joepie221]

Glad you like them Paul! Thanks.

[@darkhorsestudios76]

Brilliant... As always!!

[@ericsandberg3167]

One of these days I'd like to see you machine a D1-4 female mount and the technique you would use to get the taper and depth spot on for a perfect fit on a lathe.....would make for a killer vid.

[@MrSprintcat]

Joe thank you for the video. About five years ago I bought a South Bend Lathe 10 in heavy cut. It came with the taper attachment, do you have any videos on how to use a taper attachment Thanks again. I like your T-shirt

[@joepie221]

Unfortunately, I don't have a taper attachment for my lathe, and RUGER was my bulldogs name. I like the shirt too. ( and all the rugers I own :)

[@bearsrodshop7067]

Single wire gauge,, brilliant. I Have had the LeBlond 17 for 15 months and haven't turn on thread yet,,,But with the bed rails wore up near the spindle, no since till thats corrected (@@)! Stomach bug hit me at 2AM,, so not going get out in the shop for a few days...Bear.

[@joepie221]

Get well soon Bear. And my best to the Misses.