How To Pickup an Internal Thread for Repairs !!!

[@minigpracing3068]

Even though I don't have some of these machines, I always get some value out of these videos. Some day I'll have a small shop.

[@agros351302]

Have just found your chanel, as i set up a home workshop to do my own gunsmithing ( bolt action ), these machine tips and tricks are awesome, thanks to people like yourself that take the time to help others!

[@joepie221]

Welcome aboard! Hit that sub button. :)

[@Ujeb08]

where would we be without the dial indicator? a true friend of the machinist!

[@joepie221]

Absolutely one of the most important tools in the box and one of the first things a new machinist should buy. QUALITY !!!! Buy nice or buy twice :)

[@markfulmer8501]

Hi Joe - your use of the split thread for clarity purposes is a great teaching aid . Keep the great videos a coming ! thannks for taking the time to do this

[@joepie221]

I had it laying around. You should have seen me indicating it in.

[@johndonlan5956]

Joe this is an absolutely brilliant method! That bit about putting the test indicator on the ass end of the boring bar..... That's just great!

[@neillickfold]

When I was an apprentice, I was shown this technique, but used the compound slide to find the centre of the groove. The indicator was looking at the compound movement. It is also the same technique for an outside thread to be picked up. The only difference was that after the lathe engagement and had checked the thread pitch , the chuck was hand turned in the direction of the thread cut. This made sure there was no backlash in the gear train. Also lock the carriage so it is stable in position. Great post Joe as always.

[@robertos4172]

A clever machinist, with lots of actual experience, willing to share his techniques. Many thanks.

[@joepie221]

thanks.

[@matteodegennaro7441]

IT is over 50 years that I have operating many type of engine lathes ,Turret lathes and CNC lathe . I never new how to pick up an inside thread. Thanks a lot i really appreciate this video. Thanks Thanks again and again.

[@peterpocock9062]

Joe, putting the DTI on the end of the boring bar was bloody brilliant. I can see some other uses for this idea! Well done Also, when you visit the Fang Farrier (dentist) don't be shy about putting in a request for his or her broken tools. They only throw them out, and they can be very useful to us "engineers" 😎

[@joepie221]

You can find a surprising amount of small useful tools at gun and knife shows.

[@charruauno386]

Thank you for showing Joe. The say, that when you stop learning you are done, well, following you and your videos I can categorically say I will never stop learning, THANK YOU FROM MD AND HAVE A GOOD DAY.

[@joepie221]

Thanks for the comment.

[@vk6xre]

Hey Joe, I love your videos. They are an example of logical problem solving and lateral thinking. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.

[@joepie221]

Thanks for watching.

[@carlpenney901]

I learn something new every time I watch your videos.

[@tansit2344]

Last time I chased a thread was using standard Aloris holders and an insert bar. I used the compound to feel either side of the thread and noted the travel and backlash. Bounced back and forth until I found the root and backed off a few thou. Make sure you have all the backlash loaded in the correct direction on everything! Especially the half nut. Joe I like the use of the indicator. I was running more seat of the pants to chase a very large UNS optical thread.

[@bcbloc02]

I have in the past done it strictly visual by adjusting as the tool rubs in one point. Using the dial indicator to split the difference is a good idea.

[@PatrickJDaley]

Yes, great video! I laugh every time you say "unloosen"😁 I enjoy and learn something every time I watch your channel. Keep sharing the knowledge!

[@Awegner176]

Joe, I wish I saw this video yesterday as I was cutting a 1-7/8 x 6 spindle adapter. One of the threads got buggered up near my undercut and I had a seriously hard time picking the thread back up to finish the job. Now I know for next time! Thank you as always for what you do for us novices.

[@jimmilne19]

Your instructional videos have made me a much better machinist. I am so thankful for your material and your friendly presentations. I live in a remote location in Greenland and access to your videos gives me access to the best teaching anywhere, yours! Thank you, thank you.

[@joepie221]

Thank you very much for the comment. Very much appreciated.

[@jasen963]

Best teacher ever, I’m always learning new things on this channel. Big thank you Joe your the best 👍🏻

[@joepie221]

Thank you.

[@rickbowen6929]

Another good video Joe!.... One caveat might be, for novice machinist, is to not forget that the job came in as a repair, meaning that the threads will be mashed, rolled over, gouged, etc, so their start number of .020" in this video case, needs to be sneaked up on to avoid chipping a tool on the damaged spots. Well done !

[@paulcarre4719]

Another great tip Joe - I had moved the tool but had not thaught to use the indicator to find the center - so simple, Thanks

[@EDesigns_FL]

Me to: using an DTI never occurred to me either;-)

[@joepie221]

Thanks. Using the compound could easily lie to you or chip your tool. The indicator gets you much , much closer.

[@tedfarwell9812]

Awesome technique, as always, Joe! Thanks for posting. The concept of threading away from the chuck is just brilliant. So simple, why hasn’t it been done like this forever?

[@shirothehero0609]

It's funny when you see this for the first time you go -"duh! Now I don't have to be a ninja with the half nut!" I started to use it all the time because my lathe has a metric leadscrew and no threading dial. Makes the whole stop-out-reverse-in-forward thing sooooo much easier for when you can't unlock the half nut during threading.

[@Gottenhimfella]

Actually, some turners were doing this in the first half of the last century.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Thanks for sharing this idea, thankfully I have not had to pick up internal threads yet but have picked up on a number of external ones. I really like your idea for threading with the spindle in reverse and am now looking for a reverse threading bar to the one I have. Thank you for sharing your tips and tricks, it is very much appreciated as you have some cool ways pf doing things!

[@joepie221]

Thanks. I love a good challenge and a shop is usually full of them.

[@Gottenhimfella]

You don't need a reverse handed threading tool, in fact it won't work, even with the lathe running backwards. In the same way that a LH nut will not run onto a RH thread, even if you turn it around. Just turn the conventional RH threading tool you have upside down, or leave it right way up but at the far side of the hole, like Joe does.

[@eastcoastandy2905]

Good solid solution to an awkward problem. Thanks Joe, I'm still learning!

[@453421abcdefg12345]

Joe Pie you are a genius! That is a technique to remember, also cutting out away from the chuck, good solid advice! Many Thanks Chris B.

[@joepie221]

Thanks. Glad it was helpful!

[@mackk123]

I learned how to do threading from your vids. Made my first thread yesterday but I forgot to put it in reverse and made a pristine left handed thread hahaha live and learn. You r a genius man. Thank you

[@jasonjoens279]

Been there!

[@tonyray4203]

Well done, your are ready to progress to gear cutting, I made a lovely 36 1/2 tooth wheel - once !

[@stagemachines]

Nicely done Joe, there's something to be said for keeping the top flat surface of the boring threading tool nice and true. It lets you move the tool back and forth without the set screws influencing the location.

[@davidschwartz5127]

Nice procedure Joe, I wrote to you last winter about a similar situation, I was into during restoration on a very old screw jack that had broken on my Grandfather when a wood wheel came off the axle on a fully loaded hay wagon being pulled horse team on the way back to the barn it was sometime in the mid-s20. My father always told the story about Papa pulling the broken jack out from under the wagon mad as hell and walk over to huge gully and toss it as far as he could. The jack was rediscovered in the early s70s when the farm was being developed into an apartment complex by an excavator operator that was good friends with my father. I guess since it was buried deeply in a clay swamp it was preserved fairly well. That's when I first heard the story about the jack, my dad was about ten years old at the time it happened. My dad hung onto that broken old jack for the rest of his life and it was passed on to me with the request to get it working again. I did, but it's only an ornamental piece now. I could have done a much better job had I saw your video first. My sister has it hanging on a wall in her family room now along with many other artifacts from our family. Thanks!

[@joepie221]

Love it.

[@creast56]

Joe, this has been a godsend for me. Threading in reverse is a revelation making it so easy to work to a dead stop or should I say from a dead stop. Brilliant! I just did an internal thread only 1.5 mm deep and 0.5mm pitch!

[@joepie221]

Good to hear. You'll never go back to the old way.

[@bpark10001]

Are you doing this on lathe with metric screw?

[@creast56]

@@bpark10001 In truth it was a custom thread of 7mm dia but 50 tpi. This meant I could engage the half but using the timing dial on my imperial Myford.

[@darcyrichardson4166]

Joe, where the hell were you 40 years ago when I started Machining?? If I ever get to Austin someday, I want to shake your Hand. you are awesome. Keep it coming.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Another great Pieczynski original. Fantastic. Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge.

[@aeroscottmodelenginerepair2830]

Hey Joe, thank you so much for your efforts and planing to present relevant and purposeful video content to our machinist community. BTW, please start a senior division for your maze challenge for the 2020 Summer Bash, no prizes needed, just bragging rites for us old machinists.

[@ianskeldon6032]

I have to agree with Keith Monarch, this is a great video, you done it again Joe.

[@joepie221]

Thanks.

[@CJ_LEGAN]

Thanks Mr. 3.14 for all your video tips. This is one of my favorites!! CJ

[@joepie221]

thanks for watching. Much appreciated.

[@scottrousseau297]

Great video. Love the cut away and in depth explanation! Subscription added!!

[@joepie221]

Glad you liked it! Thanks for the sub.

[@scottpace8794]

One of my most valuable go to tools is joe pie videos ! Great stuff thenks !

[@michaelhompus2475]

The Arachnid on your whiteboard looks more like an Formicidae... Anyway, this is another of your videos that I liked very much. Your way of explaining of what and why you are doing things is something that makes me follow your channel. Being an amateur machinist with an engineering background, I learn something new by watching your videos. Regards from the Nethrlands.

[@sanjaysami4315]

Fabulous video. Beautifully shot with great camera angles. Thank you very much !

[@RJMachine62]

Wow, you just made your own "Half Nut" LOL I always enjoy your videos. Keep up the good work!

[@andreturnbull1259]

Excellent! I learned a lot. Great training aid, it makes it very easy to understand what is happening (out of normal sight).

[@brianday6433]

Engine Lathes are easy. I was doing this 30 years ago. I just came up with a new process two days ago on a CNC lathe without a compound. 3 5/8-12 ID thread repair on a 10' long telescoping tube. I picked a position behind the Chuck to make a timing mark on the Head Stock and Mounting Ring. I used a small amount of JB Weld to cover a small spot of about the first 4 thread. After setting Z0 at the end of the tube I checked the timing marks then moved the threading bar to the center of the first full thread. Marked down Z-.175" I set program to start at Z+.100". Run first pass and stopped. Checked the marks over the JB Weld. Looked Good. Run the Program to end. Needed minor adjustment to X diameter and about 0.004" to Z. Ran 10 tubes before quitting time.

[@drickard67]

Fantastic! That is one job that has always caused me the most grief... Thanks! The boring\threading bar jig is outstanding...one holder and all bar sizes on center.... amazing.

[@timmer9lives]

Very cool and exacting method of picking up the threads after a screw up when threading. I’m a total novice but just recently was trying to make a spindle nut protector for L-00 spindle on my old Clausing 5900 lathe in which I’m adding a lever collet closer . Anyway I screwed up midway cutting the external 3.5” x6tpi thread. I spent about 30 minutes thinking about how I save the mostly finished nut I was making and did a lot of what was described in this video. I love the the indicator because I just eyeballed my repositioning of the boring bar. This was very cool. Thanks again. I really like your videos Joe. They almost always hit home as very useful.

[@-Honeybee]

That's a pretty clever solution. I like the use of the indicator to pick up that blind measurement for getting centered.

[@joepie221]

It will get you very close if all preceding steps have cooperated.

[@bruceanderson9461]

Great tutorial! Never would of thought to cut the piece in half to demonstrate.👌👍

[@brucebellows7772]

Another excellent video Joe. For demonstration purposes a strobe light is a very handy tool for viewing rotating elements.

[@Robonthemoor]

Great tip with the indicator sir Joe,, I like the reverse threading too, the bushing is a bonus tip never thought of that👍 keep em coming.

[@bcwrangler]

Learning lots from your videos Joe...Thank You

[@emptech]

Nice video techniques, you are no amateur. Also like the way you used a sectioned piece of work to illustrate the cut. I've known of turning from, how would you say, on the back side with the spindle turning backwards, nothing like threading a blind hole, done it many times, making camera lens adapters, etc. I've always done the threading by "feeling" where the bit was, not by using the dial indicator and splitting the difference to find the center of the thread. Nice work, as usual. Jim

[@ttabbal]

Great trick! Thanks Joe! I also like the boring/threading bar holder and adapters. I am going to have to make some of those.

[@RGSABloke]

When you said 'un-loosen', I nearly wet my pants. Love it, great info as always. Kindest regards. Joe.

[@maxcnc777]

Good stuff Joe. The half part was great for the visual. I've had to do this a few times... more so with od threading. I once had to pick up a 10-32 thread on the cnc to thread mill it a little larger when it shrunk with heat treating. Basically used the same principle as you have described here.

[@charleskelley1672]

As usual very well described. The only suggestion that I would make would be to determine the speed that you intend to run the part since on some lathes changing the speed after locating the tool can create a problem concerning location.

[@joepie221]

I can not speak to all machinery, but the possibility does exist.

[@GregoryJehan]

Fantastic technique and perfect explanation. Thank you for sharing your expertise and knowledge with us!

[@joepie221]

Glad it was helpful!

[@grahameblankley3813]

Hi Joe Excellent video again, I used to work in a Ballscrew factory in Coventry 🇬🇧,1980 to 2005 and nobody cut threads weather it was a ball track or threads the way you do, I now do it your way, thinking about it your way would have helped a lot!

[@hardyjohnson2322]

Great solution as always. Well presented. Thanks for everything you do. I've learned an awful lot from you over the years - many thanks!

[@joepie221]

I'm happy to pass it along.

[@infoanorexic]

My very first attempt at picking up a thread was on an internal. It certainly wasn't voluntary! Thankfully, it was on a large bore, 5 tpi, and near the beginning of that operation, so it was a little easier to absorb any differences in how the tool bit was set. That slip was the first of several that convinced me that the old original lantern tool post could not be trusted. There are "turret" tool posts, I started calling this one my "tourette's" tool post, as it became the cause of several sudden outbursts of profanity ...

[@richardcranium5839]

the hardest thing sometimes is to get the part to run true in the chuck. then deal with the baclash in the machine. thanx joe i do like the bar setup with the indicator!!

[@chrisd-gd6no]

another great video Joe! Thanks.... i have learned a hell of alot watching your videos !! You are a true craftsman!

[@johnsavoy4784]

Excellent demonstration, I was impressed by the floating collet,so simple but very effective,

[@joepie221]

That takes the tool chip potential out, and eliminates the tip flat difference issue.

[@BobJones-cr1pl]

Joe.......true dental mirrors are " first surface " mirrors. The mirrored surface is applied to the outside surface. Very fragile but they do not give the distorted or double image of the typical tool truck mirror where the mirror surface is on the backside of the glass.

[@joepie221]

I never knew that.

[@jimmilne19]

Joe, I have learned so many techniques from your videos. Very fine educational materials you offer us. Thanks for sharing.

[@joepie221]

Thanks for the support.

[@randomdude1786]

I hope I never have to use that trick. At the very beginning of this demonstration My only thought was, how's he gonna line this up. very clear demonstration Thanks Joe

[@scottfarnham2717]

Great video, Joe! I learn something new everyday!

[@michaelm4569]

Could you please make a video detailing Buttress threads. I can't seem to find any information on the set-up (compound rest angle) and procedure of machining this type of thread which is mostly for hydraulic applications. The Machinery Handbook gives many specs but no procedures. Thanks! I love the videos!

[@peterfitzpatrick7032]

Buttress threads only have one angled flank so you can simply plunge straight in without topslide (compound slide) set-over... 🙄😏 Set-over is used to stop the cutter cutting both flanks at the same time , this cannot happen with the buttress so no set-over needed... make sense ? Joe can correct me if I'm wrong... I'm only a hobbyist but this is my understanding & my experience... 🤓 BTW... the cutter profile would look like a woodworking chisel on its side..kinda like this.. /| 😎👍☘️🍺

[@literoadie3502]

Peter Fitzpatrick I think some buttress threads have a slight amount of angle on the “straight” side as well. But this is small enough that you probably won’t need to worry about it.

[@peterfitzpatrick7032]

@@literoadie3502 looking at charts I see what you mean... in which case , to be correct, I assume you would set the compound to that small angle instead of 90°plunge cut... thanks for making me look , laziness is a bad thing... 🙄😂 😎👍☘️🍺

[@literoadie3502]

Peter Fitzpatrick I wonder if they make any rolled buttress threads? I really like butters threads on vises and presses.

[@peterfitzpatrick7032]

@@literoadie3502 can't see any reason why not, as long as there was a big enough production run to make it worth it... rolled would definitely be stronger... I'd imagine those rolls are quite spendy tho... 🙄😖 😎👍☘🍺

[@ddcd53]

Great video as usual. Good content and info and camera work. I never stop learning from you. Thanks for sharing with us. Dan

[@takedeadaim8671]

Thanks Joe, I must have missed this one, shame on me. I do this often when truing actions, if you don’t bring the thread into coaxial alignment the other work goes out the window when the tube gets tightened. Time to order a left hand threading bar.

[@michaellitzkow8123]

Thanks Joe - your timing is perfect! I recently bought a South Bend (Skinner) chuck on ebay for my Craftsman lathe. Wouldn't you know it. That snooty South Bend chuck refuses to thread fully onto the Craftsman spindle. (Yes, I have cleaned both the threads thoroughly.) The question of who is wrong in a situation like this is interesting. I have tried measuring the spindle over thread measuring wires, but I have a hard time getting repeatable numbers. Will make another try at that tomorrow. I think that regardless of which part is wrong, I will try to increase the pitch diameter of the chuck hub rather than messing with the threads on my lathe spindle. That's probably not something a noob like me should be doing :-)

[@joepie221]

Doing the chuck may be harder, but it assures other things will still screw onto the lathe.

[@michaellitzkow8123]

Joe, I made a fixture to hold the thread measuring wires and and am getting somewhat more consistent readings. I find that the lathe spindle PD is a little oversize. Nevertheless, I am going to modify the chuck hub, not the spindle. Modifying my lathe spindle is just not something I'm comfortable doing at my current skill level. Thanks again for a great video just exactly at the time I needed the information.

[@paulbade131]

Genius Joe, Thank you very much!

[@douglasthompson2740]

Hello Joe, I believe I got most of this technique. Here's one where I don't think it would work at all and have no idea how to approach this. I have a mid eighties Maglite C cell. Now Maglite makes its own proprietary thread. It is a mighty fine and light one too. I do not know if the internal one is the same as the external. In these earlier Maglites the switch is held in by a threaded collar that engages this internal thread. Your mission should you choose to accept it is: How to identify such a minute thread inside a small barrel (a C size doesn't give much room for either vision or sizing tools! Don't know if the thread gets bigger on the D size but I don't think it changes??). How to 'feel' that thread which is not only very small but in aluminum. Then chase that thread which starts and ends inside the barrel. I am not even sure if it is a 60 degree thread. How to measure that fine a thread inside a blind small bore and how to make a tool to do the cutting (probably the easiest of a difficult set of problems) seems a tough one. Thanks again for your excellent videos. Take care and Happy New Year. Doug

[@drd1924]

Use some clay, press it into the internal thread to make a mirror copy of the thread pitch and angle. View the clay on your optical comparator to be able to grind your tool to match. Joes method is good here....what I do is simply loosen the threading tool in the holder, then push the tool into the thread groove since the tip of the tool will follow the groove and align itself until it bottoms out. Make sure backlash is taken up in the direction of travel before locking everything down.

[@Gottenhimfella]

@@drd1924 Me too. (Both tricks). If I want a more permanent impression of a thread or internal feature, I use kneadable epoxy putty (the coaxial stick form) and spray sparingly with a volatile release agent which flashes off.

[@drd1924]

@@Gottenhimfella Good trick, Yeah I like that kneadable 2 part epoxy since it dries quick too.

[@BOHICAshooter]

Just used this method to get a draw bar to take all of the collets, Thanks again for the informative videos.

[@joepie221]

Glad to help

[@seeigecannon]

@@joepie221 I just re-watched this video because the new to me lathe also has a collet draw tube that has been dropped. Looking forward to when the VFD gets in so I can try this out myself.

[@keithmonarch447]

Joe, in short. What a fantastic idea/video to perform I.D. thread repairs What a great process 😁...

[@Amaysing79]

Thank you very much Joe. You are one smart man I love you videos.

[@joandar1]

Great Technique as well as video Joe Thanks heaps for this along with all your other tutorials. This is not something I have encountered as yet however I am aware now of a sound and accurate process to do this. Many thanks Joe from John, Australia.

[@HaraldFinster]

Incredibly clear and instructive! Thanks a lot Joe!

[@jasonjoens279]

Thanks for the lesson, Joe!

[@douglasthompson2740]

If you are chasing threads that have been worn and/or distorted how do you pick up your center of thread with confidence? Some that have been over torqued can also stretch the thread. I like the idea of putting an indicator on the back side but am confused about how you keep everything in position when you unlock the half nuts during set up? Thanks for a good video.

[@joepie221]

The location of the tip of a threading tool is mechanically set to be coordinated with the machine movement. Once its set, you can engage and release the half nut as much as you want and it won't forget where it is. As for chasing beat up threads, I would suggest finding an area that looks good and set your tools there. Watch that first pass and adjust if necessary.

[@jamescopeland5358]

I watched this for the 2nd time now I know what I did wrong. The grammar is fine with this old rascal. Thx Joe

[@dahut3614]

I would imagine that when first engaging the half nut (4:14), we would need to be mindful of the thread dial for the particular thread so that when we later engage the half nut to clean-up the thread(13:35 ), it is properly indexed to the thread. Correct?

[@artmckay6704]

years ago I had a small lathe and I didn't know you could thread from the head towards the tailstock but, once I tried it and saw that it did work, then I, too, adopted that approach to threading because the conventional approach never made any sense to me; it was far too risky. fortunately for me, I've never had any problem shunning convention to try a different approach. Driving big rigs I learned, pretty quickly, to shun the traditional approach to breaking while going downhill. Training says to pick a gear, before going down the hill, and then stay in that gear the entire way down. That gear might end up being too high a gear and you have to "over brake" to prevent the rig from gaining too much speed. You over brake and your brakes fade - translation, you lose your braking ability and you're now a gravity powered missile with zero alternative ways to slow or stop. The solution is to use the left foot for only one purpose - maintain 10# of air pressure on the brakes. 10# air pressure is a magic number because it does slow the rig but it also is the air pressure at which you CANNOT fade your brakes. So, when I'd go over a hill I'd use my left foot only to maintain 10# of air on the brakes. If 10#'s wasn't slowing the rig enough then I'd goose the fuel, pop the stick to neutral, goose the fuel again and downshift. Rinse and repeat until the combination of 10# brake pressure and the gear chosen kept the truck at a safe speed. The conventional approach is suicidal and yet many viewed my approach as suicidal because they'd had it hammered into their heads that you NEVER change gears while going downhill. Well, the conventional way nearly killed me, whereas my method was trouble free for nearly 17 years and I feared no hill - no matter how steep - because I knew the safest method to successfully get down ANY hill! Convention be damned, do what you know works. :)

[@artmckay6704]

@@gangleweed yes, double clutching..... you cannot and should NEVER double clutch when going down a hill. Very dangerous. One should float the gears. No double clutching and I never had a big rig with synchronous transmissions. You "could" double clutch but I never met a big rig driver that did that. The truck you're referring to also could have had the gears "floated" rather than double clutching which is always dangerous to do.

[@mrtomsr]

Excellent idea. My old Southbend 9A might have an issue running backwards as that could unscrew the Chuck. I will give it a try with real light cuts. Thank you.

[@michaellitzkow8123]

Maybe you can fit a long bolt inside the chuck running through the spindle. Then lock it with a fender washer and nut on the outside end of the spindle. I have not tried this yet, but I have the same issue with my Craftsman lathe. The threaded spindle has no protection for reverse turning. Theoretically, it would be best to use a bolt with a left hand thread. My reversible drill has a chuck that screws on to the right with a left handed bolt in the center that screws back into the spindle. It stays tight under power in either direction.

[@jamiebuckley1769]

that was brilliant joe. thanks for showing how to pick up an internal thread. you are an arsenal of very usefull machining information and totally love your channel. thumbs up bigtime.

[@joepie221]

47 years of scratching my head made me very creative. Thanks.

[@ronwilken5219]

Explains the balding spots. Good video Joe. Thanks from most of us.

[@kmitchl1]

Great video as usual. Would like to see a follow up of how to do internal threads to the bottom of a bore cutting away from the chuck without cutting a thread relief as a starting point.

[@joepie221]

Go deeper in my video catalog. Internal threading to a hard stop

[@LabRatJason]

Joe, have you ever done a segment on those boring bar bushings? If no, I’d live to see one. I need to make some for my lathe. Thanks for all your awesome videos!

[@bobwas4066]

I agree would like to see the details of the holder and bushings, another great video

[@tonyray4203]

Me too.

[@ronwilken5219]

@@tonyray4203 me three

[@lukedragoo1618]

My internal threading is almost exclusively on parts without a stop groove, but also without a shoulder right up against the threads. Is there a way to start the reverse threading technique without a groove to start the tool in? I do a lot of truing of threads which are never cut straight to the bore of the part when I get it. Normally end up with a thread that's .010" oversize, then cut the mating part to match the oversize thread. My process for picking up the thread is much the same as yours, but I currently thread toward the chuck, back out at the end of the cut and disengage the half nuts simultaneously. It makes me nervous and I've broken my fair share of inserts by not getting out of the cut in time.

[@jeffanderson1653]

Shoot, picking up an internal thread is easier than an exterior. Well done and thank you sir!

[@joepie221]

You still need to be careful, but its not too hard.

[@kiaypp]

I didn't notice a thread relief at your starting point...how does that work?

[@Gottenhimfella]

It looked as if there was a single V groove, amounting to a screw thread of zero pitch, to allow spinning the spindle up to speed before engaging the half nuts.

[@dquad]

Hi Joe, Not sure if I wasn't paying attention, but did you mention anything about making sure all the backlash is out of the system when setting the tool in the correct position? I always find it amazing just how much backlash most lathes have the geartrain for the leadscrew mechanism.

[@joepie221]

I always apply drag to the top of my handwheel while threading like a drum brake. Always. Even in this example prior to setting that tool.

[@jeffpitzer8521]

More Joe Pie amazing wisdom! Thanks for sharing...

[@greatdane3343]

Great, clear demonstration. Thanks for sharing.

[@joepie221]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@ChrisB257]

Great demo Joe, thanks. Tend to wonder if backlash is catered for satisfactorily.

[@outsidescrewball]

awesome lesson and now another build project for the list....atb

[@joepie221]

Hi Chuck. Thanks for stopping by. Hope all is well.

[@Miseries_Company]

Havent ran into this yet, but when it does it's in my tool box.

[@mitchelle05]

Thanks for sharing your technique sir joe, i was taught to chase thread using compound slide, not very effective.. Great video tutorial.👍

[@jeffryblackmon4846]

Thank you, Professor Pieczynski! This is a terrific video.

[@joepie221]

Thanks for checking it out.

[@joewest2560]

Outstanding! If I were given the ability to employ Mr. Spocks Vulcan mind reading technique only once and to only one person, after much pondering it would surely be either you, or my next door neighbors wife!

[@jamesdavis8021]

Excellent video.The method of using a dial indicator would seem to be equally useful to repair external threads since the dial indicator can detect very small movements the eyes can’t detect.

[@TheFatblob25]

I was wondering about your boring tool holder from previous videos. Nice design!

[@RagsdaleCreek]

Awesome Video JOE Just got in 3 different sizes IL threading tools and inserts. Always had used company threading tools and inserts. Seen it done several different ways . This is the only was I have seen that works 100% for me. Thanks for sharing these younger guys I know will be in the shop first thing trying this. Awesome video as usual Watching in Alabama

[@joepie221]

Good Luck.

[@bobboldman1189]

Thanks Joe for another great demonstration. I haven't had the opportunity in my few years working a lathe to repair internal threads, I will definitely play with your procedure for the fun of it; who knows when a job comes up when needed. I so look forward to your instructions. Bob from Arlington, Washington State

[@metalshopwithtroy5755]

Hi Joe, Very funny " unloosen", also my Australian partner say we both pronounce the word "across" wrong, lol Nobody seems to understand Americans. Your video was great as I usually find. I was interested in your design for the boring bar collet system for the quick change tool post, very versatile. Like its abilty to float into position but is it really more rigid? Can only think about variation in 2 bore sizes; collet and bore of the holder, compared to just lock in a tool holder. Just interested in your thoughts Joe. I do appreciate your time spent on delivery a great video and follow ups.

[@tonyray4203]

I'll be adding one of those holders to my to make list.

[@joepie221]

The hole in the mounted block is always 1". You can use 1" bars in the main block and use collars for smaller tools. I have 3/4, 5/8 and 1/2. For 3/8 and smaller, I have dedicated adapters. May be a good video topic.

[@metalshopwithtroy5755]

@@joepie221 Thanks Joe for the follow up, greatly appreciated. Sincerely Troy Guyette

[@metalshopwithtroy5755]

@@joepie221 thanks Joe look forward to make a holder with you, just fromAustralia though 😊