Micro Drilling -- Stop Breaking Small Drills !!

[@Karmabim123]

An excellent tip, I have done much the same thing myself with a home-made device. I see a few negative comments which are totally uncalled-for, Joe is kind enough to share some good workshop tips, if you don't have a use personally there are plenty who do, don't knock it.

[@markhansford178]

I realise that this is an old post but have to say that I completely agree, Joe is a teaching legend! He has a real knack of keeping it interesting and at the same time getting really useful information across. Big thumbs up for the guy 👍

[@DieselDog358]

Hear! Hear!👍

[@stevewb1000]

Thank You Joe ! I really do appreciate all the videos you do . I am hobby machinist , I’ve been a Heavy Equipment mechanic for over 40 years I work for Caterpillar Warrencat . I learn something new everyday . Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and wisdom . Looking forward to learning more from your videos. Sincerely, Steve W Black - Anadarko., Oklahoma

[@stevedeep_creek_walla916]

Thank you Thank you Thank you Joe. I make small brass parts with small holes drilled deep. No matter how light my touch is on the tailstock crank, the "feel" is zero. From your great vidoe I can see how much quicker and easier it will be with the free sliding chuck. Indeed a "light bulb" moment for this amateur!

[@alexfrizzell9587]

GREAT video, been an "old school" machinist for 50+ years and just learned something new......gonna make that adapter today, love it. Thanks

[@nlo114]

With small drills like that, I usually buy 3: One to lose on the floor, the second to break, and the third to do the job. I now feel confident enough to buy only two, and hopefully not drop either!

[@darrentiffany9746]

You're a life saver Joe. I need to drill some 1.2mm holes in 304 stainless and I've been dreading it until I saw this video. Though I'll be doing it on a mill, your comments below to use a micro drill adapter have shown me the way. Thanks!

[@alien4x487]

One of my old bosses had a sign in the shop that said "If you don't know what lever A is then leaver B". I learned "the feel" from that guy after he stood behind and watched me try to burn a 3/8" drill bit through a stainless plate at high speed and I do mean Glowing Red with all the force I had in me at the time. Talk about work hardening Hahaaa!! Thankfully, "finesse" as he called it or "the feel" as you say is a skill I was capable of acquiring with a little bit of proper coaching. Cool trick man. Rock on Joe, with your 2017 post I somehow missed? Wtf

[@BluesDoctor]

I see someone else calls that a sensitive chuck. Had mine given to me by an old machinist who retired and passed many great tools to me. That sensitive chuck adapter saved my goose many times over. I never realized till now how expensive that thing is. A treasured tool because a craftsman gave it to me who I highly respected. I bet those who build your design will have no less a tressured tool. Nothing is more frustrating than fighting and breaking tiny drill bits, unless it's a tiny dull center drill, lol... Another great tip Joe and your right feel is everything for doing good work.

[@dannyakatrikerred7381]

On the subject of Tiny Drills, if your bit is too small for the chuck to clamp down on, spiral wrap the drill shank with fine copper wire then put it in the chuck and snug it down tight. Works in a pinch.👍🏻

[@joepie221]

I like that idea. Thanks.

[@michaelsavage1241]

Absolute Great Video Joe!!!! I'm into Clock Repair and I think You Just solved a huge problem. Some guys hold the bit freehand in a pin vice because they're afraid of snapping it. I can't see how that can give you any kind of close tolerance. Your method eliminates that freehand wobble. Thanks Again!!

[@joepie221]

The theory can be applied many ways. It gives great feedback for small holes. You'll like it.

[@robgoodsight6216]

...."...all I got"...this is excellent!!!

[@RWBHere]

My Dad used exactly that method for scratch building small scale model compressed air-driven engines, for longer than I can remember. I never saw him break a drill bit in over 50 years. Thanks for highlighting it.

[@ActiveAtom]

New here, the micro drill title caught our attention because well we are micro machinists so your 26 thousands just under 6.5 mm for us as watchmakers we do millimeter more often. I hope my micro drill press does not begin to stall out here at 6.5 mm as that is really large for us. Just funin, you are good.

[@joepie221]

To correct you, 26 thousands is not just under 6.5mm. Its about 3/4 of 1mm. .026, not .260

[@ActiveAtom]

@@joepie221 Thank you that is what I get for trying to convert inches to my mm's, thank you for correcting me.

[@lifuranph.d.9440]

@@ActiveAtom You aren't the first...nor the last.

[@robertlawson8572]

But it is, to all intents and purposes, 0.65mm, so he got his decimal point out by one place. I'm sure that would have become obvious if he ever had to perform the task in reality... At one shop I worked at, a guy converted a dimension wrongly, from metric to the inches he was so much more familiar with, and we ended up with a roomful of aircraft spec light alloy billets, all 5mm, or a little over 3/16" too short for the task... @@joepie221

[@Quilbily]

I just used your technique and it worked great. Thanks, I didn't know what I was going to do, my drill was a .040" so bigger than yours but I couldn't have done it without you.

[@joepie221]

Glad it helped!

[@MrMazhar8551]

Thanks Joe, For an excellent suggestion. Would it also help to put the bit further into the chuck and then gradually draw it out as you progress with the drilling

[@joepie221]

Absolutely

[@yvesshaw6284]

The simplest solution is often the best solution. Nice one sir!

[@iankennedy1729]

Thanks very much. I've been in engineering for 50 years and have never seen this trick, not done that much small drilling but enough to know I appreciate your video!

[@robertlewis4666]

Fantastic Joe! I only started fiddling with a mini lathe since I retired and I thank you for posting so many tips, they have helped me learn so much! Keep them coming. With thanks from South Africa.

[@kernalkorn1514]

You're absolutely right about the 'feel' of the drilling/cutting. Once you've lost the feel, you've lost your drill bit!

[@edsmith2562]

Always a pleasure Joe. I could have bet you while you in the office at the beginning of your video, exactly what it was that you showed us here. It is kind of you to share, I recall how selfish 'some' of those crotchety old timers could be back when I was an an apprentice. However in '78, I took a job in a tool room at a stamping company, and I was lucky enough to work for a journeyman that was a lot like you. Thanks.

[@joepie221]

I looked up to the guy that trained me. Chet Z. a fellow Pollock from NJ.

[@PeterWalkeronGoogle]

You've helped me meet my goal of learning something new every day. Thanks Peter Walker

[@joepie221]

Thank you for telling me that. Stay tuned.

[@larrylund2682]

this is awesome. my wire drilling has all been hand work for 20 years. I will not forget this sweet tip. thanks

[@deaultusername]

Stick a small digital caliper along the adapter and have a accurate depth gauge.

[@manobrass]

Great trick Joe! Just as useful for us amateurs as for the pros. Thanks!

[@srv3355]

That is genius ! But now damn it, its 10:30 at night and I have to go to the shop to make this and play with it !!

[@johnbodmer5645]

I made one like that some time ago. I bought one those $150 jobbies, but it had too much runout. I took the chuck off and made a sliding adapter like yours. Works great.

[@mikemoore9757]

Joe; talking about "feel" on a larger scale, I read an acticle about building the Alcan highway to Alaska. They interviewed this old bulldozer operator who was operating on a very steep slope. When asked how he knew when he thought his Cat was about to tip over he replied "You got to feel it in your ass". The human body is an amazing thing when it comes to our senses.

[@joepie221]

I would not want to try to replicate the perfection of the human body mechanically. Just think about how much is going on when a pencil rolls off your desk and you catch it before it hits the floor. Good luck with that. On a different note, I had the opportunity to scuba dive inside a ship wreck that was just slightly listing to the left on the bottom. As I swam down the hallway, my eyes wanted to swim parallel to the floor because it looked natural, but my equilibrium told me to swim level to the bottom of the ocean. It was a strange sensation to come to a comfortable position and not get sick from the conflict. Thanks for your comment.

[@23kennyd]

Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. I've watched every one of them. Awesome channel. Thanks

[@davidburns9580]

I thought of this, two seconds after I saw that adapter ... near 80 years old and still learning ... thanks!

[@BensWorkshop]

All of Joe's tips are obvious once you've seen them. Before? Not so much.

[@edangell7795]

Nice technique. I was taught to use a pin vice sliding on a drill blank mounted in a Jacobs chuck. As the drills get into the very small sizes (76, 80) it’s even easier to get the feel. Your RPM seemed a little slow to me for Stainless. Having a high speed bench lathe or a Hardinge toolroom lathe makes life easier too. Keep up the great work. Thanks for sharing.

[@joepie221]

My pleasure.

[@geordykorte]

I ordered 10 x 0.3mm microbits! After breaking 6 of them I came across this video and built the adapter. I now have two 0.3 mm holes in my project. Thank you for making this video! Greetings from the Netherlands

[@joepie221]

Glad I could help! Did you break any after making the adapter?

[@geordykorte]

@@joepie221 None what so ever!

[@DancingMachine1]

@@geordykorte Wow. Even with that adapter 0.3mm is pretty impressive.

[@springwoodcottage4248]

So fabulous. I have struggled to make 0.6 mm clearance holes for copper mig welding tips due to breaking drills. The tips are not that expensive to buy, but I have several times needed one when the shops were shut & could not make one. Next time I will try your super useful method. Thank you for sharing!

[@scottburrous2375]

Springwood Cottage: Forethought and planning has to do with having spare consumables. Kinda like starting a weld fab with only 5 feet of wire left on the spool - just saying... could also drill out your 0.023 or 0.030 tip to 0.045, in a pinch.

[@springwoodcottage4248]

Scott Burrous Yes, being organised is best, but as a one man operation I often have to fix things that break in use, often weeks or months between needing to weld, then back to what ever the broken part stopped. Being able to repair tools has often got me going far more quickly than getting new and with welding tips I often burn the wire back into them till I get back to the feel of the welder for the gauge I am at as it's so long between use and on various gauges from car bodies to 3/8 inch.

[@BobDarlington]

You can do this with a mill. You need a sensitive drill attachment. It's roughly the same setup, but the drill is spinning and you grab the chuck by a ring that spins on bearings.www.msdiscounttool.com/catalog/product_info.php?csv=gg&products_id=105401&gclid=Cj0KCQjww7HsBRDkARIsAARsIT4gMT3c3RQA5VMN7I1kuGrmW6OWlKt2JMeE8GzT1CvNAgU5r--PNXwaAlbvEALw_wcB

[@reltub20001]

Bob Darli. The only thing I found wrong with the posred website for the attachment is that only in the state of California, the product has material that may cause cancer. All of the other 49 states and the rest of the world can use this product without worry. What can the Californians use?? 😃😃😃

[@carbtech4991]

I have a similar tool made by Rutland that utilizes a Jacobs #0 chuck that closes to 0 on a spring-loaded shaft. I'm in the carburetor business and use it frequently on my miniature Sherline lathe which is smaller than your tailstock. Thank you for your video

[@oldmaninthecave]

Brilliant!!

[@mmworks83]

Nice trick. I drilled .3 mm holes year ago almost the same way but I had even smaller chuck. Feel is everything. Thanks for sharing

[@jamescapatch4783]

Genius! I do work on musical instruments and use these sizes all the time. Do you have any tips regarding small drills straight into the sides of curved steel? Usually working with steel cylinders OD .085, drilling holes at right angles with a .020-.035 drill and reaming after. I would love to hear your thoughts on reducing walk, getting perfectly centered holes, and getting precise distance measurements between holes.

[@joepie221]

If possible, make a hollow guide that your tube fits into. This guide should have the hole through it the size of your tube, and a cross hole just like you want in your part. The main hole keeps the tube located, and the cross hole "guide hole" keeps the small drill from walking when it hits the actual part.

[@jamescapatch4783]

Joe Pieczynski thanks so much! That is the best method that has ever been suggested to me. We all have basic machining skills, but the practical problem solving stuff can sometimes be elusive. Love your vids, the threading techniques are ace.

[@leyburnhealeyman]

Did something like this when I was working! But smaller! The material was H13 toolsteel, which is a versatile chromium-molybdenum stainless, in this case for use in an injection mould tool for moulding precision medical spray nozzles. The set up was as you saw here, but on a mill with the work piece in a collet in the milling head, and the slide chuck fixed to the table. Two . reasons for this set up, firstly setting and checking concentricity is much easier, and secondly a potential problem with chippings in the hole causing problems, by having the workpiece at the top, they fall out no problem. The drill size was 0.010" and the lubricant was a very cheap one, lick your finger and wipe the drill with it. This was a 128 impression tool we made, so a lot of holes, plus spares. One part was accidentally drilled at 0.008" diameter, we told the customer we'd forgotten to grind that one. This method was also successful at drilling 0.006 diameter for another mould tool. I'm not saying we didn't break drills, of course we did, again various reasons for this, not all drills are equal, drill enough small holes and 'feel' will tell this and you can discard the drill, even so because the drills vary, so does the number of holes you can get before changing, and of course tiredness from concentration and the constant light but firm grip on the drill chuck tells after a while. A useful tip for more than an odd one or two off, rig a dial indicator so that you know the break through point, this is yet another regular source of drill breakage on small holes. In all though a very satisfying process, and I can think of no better way of learning 'feel' .

[@michaelegan6092]

I'm a turner,miller but before that worked as an engineers storeman. While I was there I perused a tap and die catologue and saw that as regular stock they could supply a 4 thousandths of an inch (one tenth of a millimetre) tap with 318 teeth per inch. I would have crapped myself if I was told to use one. It's another world.

[@CalvinEdmonson]

Yes, much better feel by hand. I made a similar slip fit system for hand tapping anything smaller than 10/32 threads. When using your fingers you can really feel that tap binding up and starting to flex. That's when you back out, blow it out, re- oil and go back in for another "peck". Works equally as well on a mill. Good stuff Joe.

[@techpriest1014]

being a swiss apprentice micromecanician i can understand why you would have some difficulties with drilling that small of a hole with such a lathe so good job but if you take the good machine for the good job you'd have no problem drilling this hole, for example the smallest hole i ever drilled with a lathe was 0.2mm on a schaublin 70 lathe the hole ended up being 0.215mm in diameter but i was in my tolerance so the job was done

[@Boabreath]

Agreed, 1350 RPM is way too slow for the drill bit he's using - but that's probably about as fast as that lathe will spin. At a speed of 50 sfm (recommended for stainless), a .026" drill should be turning around 7500 RPM!

[@joepie221]

It sounds to me like you are a CNC lathe guy. If the feed isn't perfectly inline with the RPM, this drill wouldn't last a minute at that speed. Obviously my RPM was fine for the process because it works perfectly. Every time.

[@joepie221]

I also see you are a ST subscriber. Ask DB to do this at 7500 rpm by hand and get back to me.

[@vikramkumar1833]

Bryan rou I have to drill 0.32mm diameter drill. Depth is 12mm.Material is EN31 fully annealed . Can you suggest better way than hand drilling? Vikram [e-mail]

[@tomherd4179]

Another very helpful tip, thanks! Will have to make one very soon. I normally end up breaking small end mills more that drills, but any improvement is welcome.

[@cwtoyota]

Joe, great trick. If you clamp a small V-block on the OD of that female mandrel, you can magnet mount a dial indicator depth.

[@bobgarr6246]

Aaah grasshopper, this is not a trick, but rather critical thinking and the ability to think outside the box and find simple solutions to complex problems. It comes easy to some, in a MacGyver kind of way, and others can't see the forest for the trees. Bravo to those of us that can size up and quickly find solutions to confounding problems that stump others. Necessity IS the mother of invention !!!

[@danphariss133]

I really, really like the videos. Hobby home machinist and your willingness to pass on your expertise is simply magnificent.

[@willyvonbusche729]

So, if you can't afford a lathe you can't drill tiny holes, is that it? Brilliant idea though. Thanks for sharing.

[@agwhitaker]

Thanks for the tip. Love this trade, no matter how long you have been at it - there are still new things to learn.

[@joepie221]

I agree 100%

[@normanfeinberg9968]

Thanks Joe.I'm an old guy (72) but still learning,.It never stops until your sucking dirt.,thanks to people like you and the magic of the internet

[@joepie221]

My Father used to say, "A day you don't learn something is a wasted day". The man read and studied right to the end. He was amazing in his quest for education.

[@jeanpierreviljoen4141]

Thank you Joe for the help, it was a bit of a struggle but got to drill the hole. Needed new drill bits was the key.

[@frankromero4048]

I always buy cobalt micro drill bits. They work good in a pin vice also

[@mywindow9929]

An idea so simple it's perfect! Thanks for sharing.

[@MegaTubescreamer]

cool and helpful,,but 5 minutes wasted on talking? ,just get on with the job,

[@WmSrite-pi8ck]

under the video, well on the video itself, if you move your mouse over the video as it plays a little bar will pop up. The red part is the bit that has played and the grey part represents unplayed video. you can click on the grey part to advance through the video at you leisure. It's not like an 8-track. You have control

[@hildetoepoel812]

William, you are correct. To much talking on KZbin is a disaster.

[@bro7269]

Man, some of you people really need buy an attention span. A simple thank you might be nice. Ungrateful SOBs.....

[@joepie221]

Feed 100 people a free meal and someone will complain about the plate color.

[@WmSrite-pi8ck]

@@joepie221 I thought the tip was great. I really don't understand people who are too lazy to fast-forward but not too lazy to write out a bitchy comment and leave it for people who are only trying to help by making an educational video. It baffles me. Thanks for your videos Joe.

[@brianjohnson217]

Hi Joe I've just watched your video on micro drilling. What a brilliant idea you have there. May I say that I always look forward to watching your engineering videos. Many thanks, Brian

[@joepie221]

Thanks Brian.

[@martyzielinski2469]

Sherline has a “sensitive drilling attachment for doing this with THEIR MINIATURE HOBBYIST MILLING MACHINE. (The drill spins, but you feed manually in a similar manner). I think the Sherline unit cost around a hundred bucks....

[@ellesmerewildwood4858]

I see what you mean about that "AHHA" moment. I was wondering what he's going to do with that chuck in the adapter. DAMN!!! It's so simple. Thanks for this.

[@CrimeVid]

That is clever, I don’t have a lathe for metal. but still interesting.

[@alangriff1]

One word...brilliant

[@mainarbor8416]

I'm a Watchmaker. That drill bit is fairly large to me.

[@mainarbor8416]

www.testntools.co.nz/desic-tungsten-micro-drill-bits-0.3mm-3.1mm-5-pack.html

[@MatthewHolevinski]

I know what you mean, my grandpa the clockmaker, and nationwide clock repairman for montgomery wards did all his practically microscopic hole drilling by hand.

[@mainarbor8416]

@@MatthewHolevinski that is still a standard method. My grandfather and father had contracts with the Railroad until they went to Satalite. I'd like to add we use an abrasive piece of Corundum to shape, harden, and polish high carbon steel 0.002mm/min material displacement on average sized conical pivots for the balance staff on modern Watches creating super hardened mirrored surfaces. The larger size balance pivots on an 18 size Elgin pocket watch are typically between 0.11mm and .014mm. In Jeweled mechanisms (7j-21j) those pivots also glide on a Corundum surface that is also drilled. Corundum is the same composition as Ruby and Sapphire with a hardness of 9 on the Mohs scale. Gypsum is a 1 and Diamond is a 10. Ps. It is rare but Diamond jewels have also been used. Naturally Diamond is also the abrasive used in such drilling applications. The drill bit looks like a hair with a double heli and the diamond "slurry" is a fine powder added with oil. I typically only need a 20%mm dia 3.8mm long Tungsten Carbide HHS bit for small brass pivot holes www.mikrontool.com/en/Products/CrazyDrill-Flex/Description I also drill by hand using a "Steaking Tool" to stay perpendicular to the plates.

[@tonyvaccarelli7950]

Just found your site, think it's great ! I regularly drill holes in the range of #66 down to #80 , love my spring loaded chuck

[@rolandocrisostomo2003]

Awesome, I always have that problem of breaking the tiny brill. Thank you.

[@kellysampson5984]

Hi Joe, That's such a great way for drilling small holes. Thanks

[@bobloblaw7879]

12 min video. 30 seconds of content. I mean I really appreciate people putting content up, but life's busy, just get to the point. oh, and 1mm isn't a small drill :)

[@hztn]

Good thing that ytbe has a timeline preview function.

[@Burnersforvanlife]

Perhaps it is small compared to his everyday machining.

[@tomherbert160]

He said it's .026" which in my books is roughly 0.65mm, correct me if I'm wrong. I don't know what kind of machining you guys do but I just had a life changing moment watching this video.

[@recaurro]

@@tomherbert160 Is anyone being forced to watch the video ? I think not. If all the toppers aren't happy watching click off...

[@tomherbert160]

@@recaurro what do you mean mate? I watched this video and picked up a seriously handy tip on how to drill tiny little holes. That drill is half the size of the smallest I've ever used. I'd have had no idea how to drill a hole that small without seeing this. Very handy tip!

[@bbarker5766]

Love your videos! Thanks for doing what you do!!

[@HordurMar]

This video is 10 times longer than it needs to be.

[@leyburnhealeyman]

Maybe not, some people still don't get it!

[@bobgarr6246]

Great work around. A real good idea. The only thing I have reservations about is placing hands so close to the lathe chuck while it is running. You really have to be on your " A " game here as anything loose will pull you in, plus the danger of being whacked by material in the chuck, obviously larger than what's shown. Safety first !!! But I do love the idea.

[@rominhawk3949]

Super method. Wow, that is a great solution; much appreciate your sharing it. Thank you. Just curious; what's the tolerance between the drill chuck shank and the cylinder holding it? Thanks

[@joepie221]

About .0005". Close enough that the air hole in the arbor is a must or it won't go in.

[@MrClickbang357]

Thanks Joe! Yet another great tip. So all one needs is a small (micro?) chuck and an adapter , and the adapter looks simple enough - some round stock with 2 holes drilled into it!!!

[@KD0CAC]

I didn't remember watching . My only complaint is I can't leave a 2nd LIKE ;)

[@joepie221]

I appreciate that.

[@petersmith3703]

Very useful - thanks for better equipment and method to operate fine drills and taps.

[@thisissoeasy]

How clever is that? - Brilliant trick. Thank you for sharing...

[@joepie221]

You'll like it once you try it. Great tool feedback.

[@lifuranph.d.9440]

Joe Good idea. I have a 0"-1/16" drill chuck on a Hardened 3" x 1/4" shaft. I put it LIGHTLY in my BEST 3/8" tailstock drill chuck and use "Digital" control to slide the drill bit in.. I'm using "Micro" Lathes, 1/2" stock is Big for me.

[@laserfalcon]

I guarantee that twist bit didnt come from harbor freight

[@joepie221]

You would be correct.

[@xmachine7003]

No😂😂

[@xmachine7003]

@@joepie221 what maker of drills do you use?

[@ianmoone2359]

Pretty damn awesome, thanks! I have a pack of really fine drill bits like that but have only ever used them by hand between my fingers for drilling clogged brass carburettor jets out. When I decide what Lathe to buy, I can see this will come in very handy. Just wanted to say thanks, because I respect & admire people who take the time to share their experience & knowledge with others! Very decent of you.

[@rukeyser]

Broke 3 tiny bits before looking. Bring on the names - just want to make TINY holes in 1/4” vintage OAK... Uh oh. Did he say lathe. WELL *P00P* !! I’m talkin hand drill and Wood, so I can put in fine brass nail. darn it.

[@Uniquettt]

I use a Amtech R0279 Mini Craft Hand Drill but it doesn't always get positive revues but I have had and used mine for more than ten years. I brake the odd bit still now and then but light pressure and less speed gets the job done and fewer broke A normal hand drill is heavy pushing down on the small bit but the Amtech is plastic with a brass chuck and he did say lathe but I found my self hear by accident too. To make fine holes in wood you could try using a pin push Expo 2mm Pin pusher - ideal for Amati and Peco pins # 75110

[@CountDoucheula]

Have you tried an Archimedes drill? Gives you much greater control over twist speed & pressure for small jobs. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QUALITY-ARCHIMEDES-PUMP-ACTION-PIN-DRILL-Precision-Model-Pinning-Hand-Tool-/172537853411?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

[@davidgrover5996]

I have put a drill bit in a pin vice and drilled it by hand. It takes forever but it might work for you.

[@bellowphone]

Great idea, and easy to rig up. It will work for running in a tap, too, turning the lathe by hand.

[@joepie221]

Since this isn't keyed, you can still turn the chuck if you put a small tap in it. It gives great sensitivity for small stuff.

[@bellowphone]

Yes. I actually made a similar rig for my little belt-driven lathe, and I take off the belt and put a crank on the off end of the spindle, for jobs like winding springs and tapping small parts. I like the feel of turning the spindle lefty, while controlling the tool righty.

[@richardjones2151]

Oh MAN!....you did it again,...I had to stop what I was doing to write this...Sorry for repeating my self mate, but to the likes of me (and I am sure many thousands of others...) this type of generous guidance is so amazingly selfless, and I for one am so grateful for these gems.....I am frustrated that I can't give anything comparable back...Agggh!....Nice one Joe!!!...:-). please keep up this great content; you are some guy:-)

[@joepie221]

Thank you Sir.

[@torkeymada]

Really excellent technique. I have broken many small bits, doing it the wrong way, as you explained. Thanks again

[@roberthorvatich]

Great video. I've struggle with snapping small drills in stainless. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@koitorob]

So, the secret to not break your little drill bits is to buy a lathe...

[@robsrides5851]

i use the same arrangement for tapping. thanks for the idea with small drill bits!

[@jameskerns717]

So, you used digital control for the drill... :-)

[@lifuranph.d.9440]

James I had to think on this one. HaHa!

[@MagnetOnlyMotors]

And yet another page of sage advice, thanks Joe 😊.

[@joepie221]

You bet!

[@johnw.peterson4311]

Joe, simple yet brilliant. Thank you sir.

[@BaliMystic]

Great presentation and camera work. Thanks for sharing your knowledge

[@garyalford9394]

Too bad we don't all have lathes !

[@StephenCooteNZ]

Great idea thank you. Best wishes from New Zealand.

[@mikeschmidt7980]

Cool, never seen that before

[@bryankirk3567]

Why did I not think of this? Thank you Sir!

[@escapelevel1]

Not in a million years would I have thought of that!

[@michaellane7991]

Awesome video!!!!! Thank you for taking the time to film this and teach people!!! I’m one of those people that watch how it’s made every night with dinner lol.

[@lisag2771]

Joe I made the tool to drill .040 holes in 2 orifice I made of brass. It worked great. 👍🏻. Thanks!

[@joepie221]

Nice work!

[@randyhendrick3060]

That is very impressive. Big thanks. I will be using that.

[@dwrr4868]

Mmm, What about drilling a .5mm hole 3" long on brass rod..What type of bit would you use?

[@joepie221]

I'd use several and start from both sides. Finish with a reamer if possible.

[@xysix2548]

That is without doubt one of the most ingenious ideas I have ever seen. Thanks, Joe, I'll be doing that. There comes occasions when I have to drill #80 holes in stainless steel. It has been a nightmare in the past, but now with your technique it should be more doable.

[@joepie221]

Check back in after you drill a bunch of holes with 1 drill. Let me know.

[@StormDweller]

Genious method! Thanks

[@3GreeneBJ]

Nice video delivered in style. Thank you very much.

[@joepie221]

Glad you liked it!

[@richbiebeljr5273]

Nice trick. I work with stainless every day. Sure does test my patience

[@joepie221]

Yes it does!

[@barrygerbracht5077]

Wow, keep em coming. Better make darned sure your tail stock is on center though. perhaps a video idea in itself. I cant say how many time I see drills going all squirrely entering holes on the lathe because the tailstock is so far out. Lots of times they seem to be vertically off as lateral adjustment seems to be easier to accomplish.

[@scottburrous2375]

Barry Gerbrach: Now why would you EVER use a tailstock that wasn't aligned - for anything other than cutting a minor taper between centers? Watched a YT video about using a Co-axial indicator to align the tailstock. Neat trick!

[@barrygerbracht5077]

And yet 80% of the tailstocks are not properly aligned. I understand that drill bits are not always straight but the amount of dive I regularly see leads me to think that the tails stocks are not vertically aligned properly, which is much harder to correct. There are horizontal adjustment screws on most if not all lathe tail stocks which should make zeroing the horizontal alignment trivial, but what about vertical for both height and slope (may be on center when retracted, but not when extended and hence long drills are much further off center).

[@learnerlearns]

Excellent tip! I wonder if mosquitoes find this pornographic? ;-)

[@davexee270]

ive seen this before thanks for sharing.i have a friend who is a toolmaker and works with zero tolerance the machinery he has in his tool shop are self modified to work with very close accuracy,to give you a idea the items he works on are in a heatbox of 40 degrees celcius he takes them out and works on them for a few moments at a time and puts them back in and when he gauges them up he holds them with tools that are from the heatbox (Gauges too), other toolmakers that work in other areas that maker other fittings work under the same conditions so all the parts fit together

[@therealfearsome]

"feel"=trigger time...nothing replaces time in the seat

[@joepie221]

Thats a fact.

[@tomclark6271]

Hey Joe, also called a sensitive drill chuck. I'm racking my brain trying to think of a practical use on the lathe, so far no joy. However, a sensitive drill chuck for a drillpress or mill is something that should be in every machinist's toolbox. peace-out..Tc