John Deere 4020 diesel fuel system bleeding - zeketheantiquefreak

[@thetractorguyoldtractor3524]

You did well regards to getting your 4020's injectors serviced for$200.00 locally. A few years back i bought a set of 6 new pencil injectors for my 1968 model 4020 , recall it being Cnd$750.00 and their comment that the larger injectors on the earily model year 4020's are much more expensive to purchase. My father impressed upon me the importance of using clean fuel and storing tractors as well as other equipment inside a dry shed!

[@zeketheantiquefreak8518]

Great advice on the clean fuel, dry storage and regular service. Your mechanical heart is in the right place.

[@Yoshisakan]

Thanks for the thorough fuel system overview. Hopefully this knowledge will get my tractor out of the hay field 😀

[@crazyldy002]

Hi Zeke, My name is Linda I am from Georgia in the USA. I have a JD 4020, my husband passed away ( 2014 ) and I am now running the tractor LOL the only gears he would show me is the reverse and 5th gear said that was plenty fast enough for me. Never showed me how to change the oil just how to put fuel in it, check the hydraulic fluid and the oil. Well needless to say here I am with no knowledge on even general things that I need to know. I have had to pay to get O rings replaced in the bottom of the motor, which I know I could not have done but it was expensive needless to say. I have to admit. I had the muffler replaced a neighbor used it to cut the field next to the house and knocked the flapper off, so it had to be replaced. BUT I did appreciate him doing it if only he had told me so for a few months I had to put a jar over stack but it worked LOL but don't forget to take it off before starting it will shoot up in the air as I found out LOL several times before I could find muffler but I did and another neighbor put the new one on for me. Thank God for no charge. But here I am trying to change the oil but I also want to bleed off the fuel tank at the bottom. I know it has got to have condensation in it over time. Also need to blow off the radiator as I have been cutting the fields and I know they have been so dusty and plus that brush weed. I am open for any help you might have and or suggestions as I am not selling my tractor I love ole JD ( tractor) and I have a lot more fields to cut and want him running right and not straining to run. Thank you so much and God Bless you and yours, Linda MEN IF YOUR WIFE HAS ANY INTEREST IN HELPING YOU SHOW HER HOW TO DO THESE THINGS IT IS IMPORTANT...

[@zeketheantiquefreak8518]

Hopefully I can be of some help. I am from Southern Manitoba Canada. The video doesn't show the drain on the bottom of the fuel tank to let out any condensation. With a flashlight you should be able to see two valves under the tank. One is the fuel tank shut-off which would only be closed when working on the system, such as changing the filters. The other is self explanatory and remains closed except for bleeding. If you drain out the water, it is a good practice to wear some rubber gloves to keep the fuel off of your skin. What year is your tractor? They constantly evolved and improved over the years of manufacture and service procedures changed slightly. Is it a 24 volt system?

[@crazyldy002]

@@zeketheantiquefreak8518 going out to look be right back it is in back yard won't be long

[@zeketheantiquefreak8518]

@@crazyldy002 There is a little more info in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZoalfGWLobqbms0

[@crazyldy002]

ok back the number on the plate that is on it is T123R261002R

[@crazyldy002]

It used to have 2 batteries but my husband changed it to a large heavy duty 12 volt

[@littlewingpilot]

Hi Zek, well I decided to change out that primary pump, (I beleive one of the check valves was pooched) after getting it in it pumped much better & we were able to get fuel right through to the bleed screw on the injection pump. That's as far as we could get the fuel. We tried to bleed it up to an injector, but no luck so far... charging batteries now. Lol(Incidentally we did try rotating the engine for a better lobe position for the first pump & there was no difference) Thanks for your responses so far, I will keep you posted.

[@zeketheantiquefreak8518]

You are on the right track! I can offer a few thoughts now that you have fuel to the injection pump. It is worth checking the fuel shut-off linkage for proper travel. In my case, the tractor had sat for a couple three years with very old purple fuel... The pump plungers in the distributor head had seized and necessitated a pump over haul. $$$ No smoke would come out of the exhaust when turning over and no fuel out of injector lines. If you have a Roosa-Master pump and a 404 engine, there is a small bung at the top of the distributor head facing forward. install A 1/8" pipe thread fitting (gently) into this hole with, say, a 0-50 psi gauge. The hand/primary pump feeds the housing of the injection pump and an internal pump should create approximately 25-30 psi at cranking speed to feed the distributor head plungers. Keep me informed when you can. Worst case scenario, if you have to go through the pump, remove and check the injectors also. a stuck injector can create tremendous pressure in the distributor head and crack a metal ring. More $$$. If you need advice on removing the injectors without damage, let me know. I am assuming that you have the early, large 1" injectors, not the pencil type of later models.

[@crazyldy002]

Did you get info?

[@crazyldy002]

Number on back of tractor is T123R261002R

[@crazyldy002]

I saw the places where I change oil

[@crazyldy002]

I didn't see the fuel drain lines

[@thetractorguyoldtractor3524]

Excellant explanation of the 4020 diesel fuel supply system.. my local co-op supplies 100% fossel fuel diesel , heavy summer grade delivery option somethig like February till May each year for the local famers. Most of the rest of the year there is a bit of bio dosel blend in the fuel. I could be wrong , but i think bio-blend diesel is fine if you use it up quickly.. for my 500gallon farm storeage tanks i try to have them filled with the straight fossel fuel diesel . Adding "Red Tek" fuel stabalizer to my fuel. What if any fuel additives do you use to help the stability and shelf life of your diesel fuel?

[@zeketheantiquefreak8518]

My situation for fuel is quite different as this 4020 started out as a non-running challenge/project a few years back. Being a 'toy' it does little meaningful work and uses little fuel. I use a fuel additive called 'Power DYSL' for no particular reason. I top it up generally twice a year and should try your 'Red Tek' fuel stabilizer to prolong the life of the fuel. With having the 'new toy', the Bobcat with forks and bucket I think that the 4020 will be underused. Perhaps unnecessary. Hate to get rid of it, though. Great tractor.

[@littlewingpilot]

Hi Zek, Don here again, well I'm out in Ont. & started working on my 63' 4010 & I do have a bit of a shot of fuel while working the lever on the primary pump, however my fuel filters are different, they are the big clamp type, I have been working that lever for a very very long time but have yet to get fuel out of any bleed points, I'm at a loss as to what to do next. I did change out the filters last year trying to get this thing going. When I got here this year the fuel ( about 5 gal) smelled like varathane, so I drained it all & put fresh stuff in. I'm beginning to wonder if that primary filter is NFG, it is the same style as in your video,,, any thoughts ??

[@zeketheantiquefreak8518]

Don: There should be a bleed screw on top of that clamp style secondary. I humbly suggest loosening the supply line to the hand pump and make sure there is good flow from the tank. Is the engine rotated to a point where the camshaft lobe is not 'robbing' the stroke from the pump? Maybe try turning the engine over some and see if you have more useful travel. Check the pump itself, loosen the outlet line and see if it is actually transferring fuel.. There maybe an issue with the pump valves, dirt or whatever. Hope this is of some help... Lemme know how you make out.

[@zeketheantiquefreak8518]

It has been a year or so... What did you find out?

[@zeketheantiquefreak8518]

I neglected to mention the water drain at the very bottom of the fuel tank next to the fuel shut-off. As with the bottom fuel filter, occasionally open this fitting and drain till fuel emerges.

[@crazyldy002]

I will have to take flashlight out to see that area as it is way up in there

[@tomasvillalpando1876]

How much did the pump that you mentioned in the beginning cost you and where can you buy it?

[@zeketheantiquefreak8518]

Yes, sadly the pump on the tractor was badly damaged from sitting for a time with stale fuel. I removed and installed the pump and injectors myself which saved some serious $$$ but was still out of pocket about $700.00 Canadian dollars to have the pump rebuilt at a diesel injection business in Brandon Manitoba, about $200.00 to have the injectors gone through locally and two trips to the city. Plus a couple dozen gallons of fuel and filters. Like I say, this was a very expensive learning curve. On the bright side the tractor runs well and I can't imagine life without the old beast. Thank you for the comment.

[@zeketheantiquefreak8518]

What type of fuel additive (if any) do you use in your diesel equipment? What is your climate or area? Thanks in advance.

[@crazyldy002]

the weather right now is 70 F overcast

[@danb3332]

Zeke, I have a question for you. I'm running a '68 4020, with the exact fuel system on it as the machine in this video. I'm also running the original primary fuel pump with the bowl on it. The primer lever was broken off it years ago so two days ago I thought I'd change the pump to one with a lever to prime the system when I run it out of fuel (which happened ) two days ago.... I can't for the life of me get the pump to release from the block.. All the fasteners are off, I've turned the motor thinking the cam may need to rotate to allow the pump to loosen... it wiggles like it wants to come off but it's still on there. What I did to prime the system was used compressed air into the tank. worked like a dam... but i'd like to have the primer pump for the next time. Any suggestions for the pump removal? Thanks. Dan from Saskatchewan.

[@zeketheantiquefreak8518]

Wow... I changed the mechanical pump on my early 4020 and had no problems. I don't know of anything inside the engine that could 'trap' the lever/arm of the pump. I will try and find the old pump to look at it... I don't throw much out.

[@danb3332]

@@zeketheantiquefreak8518 I appreciate it.

[@joetarpley1066]

Do you know the Size of the Steel Washers/O rings that are on Each side of the Banjo Fitting on the intake and return Fuel lines on the Injector pump? Thank you in advance

[@zeketheantiquefreak8518]

Some years ago I changed the 48 washers Part #T20055. That said, I still have the old ones (Little gets thrown out) and can measure them if I can find them. My system is an early 1964 22T model with the 25MM injectors.

[@joetarpley1066]

@@zeketheantiquefreak8518 . Mine is a 69 model with the Serial number 218187R

[@andrewromine5265]

Will this fuel filter base fit on a 3010

[@zeketheantiquefreak8518]

Thank you for the comment. I am sorry, I am not familiar with the layout of the 3010 fuel system. An inquiry at a John Deere parts department would yield the information you are looking for. Perhaps an aftermarket filter application catalogue would be of use.

[@brankopavasovic5337]

Dear, Do You know where to buy Water cooler for John Deere engine ? Catalogue number of water cooler is : RE500071

[@zeketheantiquefreak8518]

I am fortunate to have a local John Deere dealer near at hand, so, no, I don't have any useful information to pass on to you. Have you tried doing an internet search with that part number? In my area I was able to get over one hundred hits when doing a search for RE500071. Thank you for the comment.