JRB Hitch Climbing Method, Update and Improvements

[@kennethrogers1129]

John, as you know I really like hitch climbing SRT, with Maverick. Posted this comment in another video but wanted you to be sure and see it. So I tested installing the rope with a small carabiner inserted in the running loops and nose of the Maverick hitch , as you demonstrated with a preset cord or throw ball cord. Inserted the hook of my pole in that same carabiner in my new 11mm Predator rope, which is pretty slick rope, WORKED GREAT, and the tree had pretty rough bark. Had nice control of the rope as I pushed it up, and it cinched nicely at the top. I think I will prefer 13:42 using the carabiner rather that placing the pole hook in the locking loop and rope. Did have my retrieval cord on the rope , having the locking loop in place and locked with the end loop through it, this all worked silently as I installed the hitch.

[@jrbtc]

I have not tried a pole with the Houdini Maverick. I will put this on my list of things to try. But as I think about it, after rappel and exploding the Maverick from the ground, wouldn't the carabiner simply fall down on ya? And possibly get lost or hit you?

[@kennethrogers1129]

@@jrbtc tested at ground level with a larger carabiner and upon release the carabiner stays on the rope, so it slid down and fell with/ on the rope, will play with it more. What happened my first climb was that the Maverick tightened up, locking loop and all so at hunting height I did leave the carabiner in as my weight was on the hitch, didn’t want to attempt to loosen the hitch to remove the carabiner and my locking loop was pulled in tight too with the retrieval/working end of my rope still within it, so just rappelled down safely, and pulled on the retrieval cord which did cause slack in the hitch loop around the tree, the hitch pulled out from the tree and slid/fell on down, no real problem. I used a non climbing small carabiner as the Houdini carabiner, maybe a larger climbing carabiner would be easier to work out of the hitch at hunting stand height, but since you mentioned it no need to remove it. Installation was nice with the Houdini carabiner, hmm just thought of putting the retrieval cord directly on the Houdini carabiner, so I have a couple of things to test, good for off season due diligence, also just breaking in this new 11 mm Samson Predator rope, it is slick but ties the Maverick nicely, feels good in hand, also breaking in new 8mm Samson cord, good color combo black cord woodland camo rope, the Samson 8mm is slick but grabs and breaks good using compact 5-2-3 with a 34 mm anchor ring on bridge and soft bridge 5-2-3 on permanent foot loop, liking this SRT rig , just playing with the Houdini . Will make sure to enlarge the locking loop and maybe tie a very short small cord on the Houdini carabiner attached to the rope and stand back fin the tree a little cautious of the carabiner. Glad you gave me that feedback, no need to remove the Houdini carabiner, will leave it but make a way to keep it in place safely on the rope with a short cord maybe, somewhat like the cord on a ring with the JRB cinch? No wouldn’t want to get dinged in the eye or head after a hunt that’s for sure!👍

[@kennethrogers1129]

@@jrbtc ok been playing around with the Houdini rigging, for pole hitch climbing specifically, turns out simple is always better ! So I just replaced the Houdini carabiner with the upward prong of my pole rope hook, a modified paint roller bent onto an S, the S being sideways when the pole is held vertical, so that S is effectively two hooks, the prong for pushing the bend of the S for pulling, my only little problem has been that at around 20 feet up, maximum extension , the weight of the rope, (11mm Predator) and it is fairly slick compared to my DSRT rope (8mm Resc Tech) tend to tighten the loop of the Maverick around the tree prematurely, it seems that tightening the hitch before sending it up is the remedy and the hook in the Houdini position seems to help keep the hitch dressed and tight. With the hook in the locking loop and rope the hitch seems to loosen and lose its correct geometry resulting in a jam when my weight is applied.

[@thomasmurphy8873]

Outstanding, thanks for all you do. Looking forward to more innovations and refinements.

[@charlieburnett6444]

Great stuff, thank you! I love the "next project". Can't wait to see how it turns out.

[@kennethrogers1129]

using your jrb saddle hunter hitch I have worked out a very safe climbing method, an improved two tether system, with a foot or leg loop one one side of the SHH, and attached to bridge on the other. Bottom hitch ropes have foot loop and very short redundant bridge on JRB soft bridge mode 5-2-3 ascender hitch, top SHH has a leg loop and longer main bridge on JRB 5-2-3 ascender, plus a chest rescue web harness for extra safety and comfort. With this method of using two JRB SHH's I am tied to the tree with TWO hitches at all times and on TWO bridges at all times, plus loops to my left foot and right thigh, could be right foot, but I like it on my thigh , it just helps transfer weight smoothly to the main bridge . This can also be accomplished with the JRB cinch very similarly, in a two tether method. I am using a very short rope bridge as you are with hitch climbing. Thanks for the ideas and sharing your knowledge. MOstly my climbs will be with the basic double static rope JRB system, it is so efficient and using a throw ball at 30-40 feet is usually no problem, and I greatly prefer the double rope method, but I will be using a chest harness and leg straps on my saddle, just feels so much more comfortable and secure, once up to hunt, I will disconnect the chest harness, unless I want to take a nap,

[@jasonking7452]

The jrb in soft bride mode works excellent for me! Thank you for sharing your knowledge it has been very helpful to me. God Bless!

[@alexu8199]

Hello! Excellent videos! I absolutely love this and I'm working on converting to this from climbing sticks. I just want to make sure I have this right. So are there a total 4 ascender hitches used in this system, 2 for the initial climb to the 1st set JRB hitch, then the next 2 on the other side of the 1st JRB hitch to hook into once the 2nd JRB hitch is tied above the 1st hitch? Thanks

[@jrbtc]

There's several options. 1. If we are building a system explicitly for Hitch Climbing, then yes, I am recommending 4 JRB Ascender Hitches: 2 on each end and providing hold such that we climb towards the END of the rope. (That's the opposite of the hitches in my doubled rope method.) The hitch closest to the end is the one that connects to our bridge. Ideally, it is a Compact, non jamming Ascender Hitch. And i feel it's best to leave the carabiner on the hitch and clip our bridge to it. This elimintes the chance of us putting the carabiner in the small loops incorrectly, as they can jostle around in handling. The next JRBAH is for our footloop. And we have options for how to rig it. My dedicated Hitch Climbing system uses Compact, Non Jamming JRBAH which are fixed onto a Rappel ring. The rappel ring has a loop of webbing in it. Everything is tied in; nothing can be dropped or fall off. Ok, now note that it's still possible to build ONE system that we can use for BOTH the Doubled rope method and hitch climbing. That system will be described soon, as i am still doing testing.

[@mikelorenz8636]

Great video John. I can see the improvements on the hitch climb and may have to really give your ascender hitch a try. I mostly use you jrb double rope climbing technique with the double mich but I can see the short bridge and short slack of the ascender hitch being a great improvement over the previous set up. This allows you to get closer to the tree when tying the next hitch and gaining some reach. Looking forward to spring and some temps that will allow me to try it out.

[@jrbtc]

Cool. Like i said in the video, i like to think i have fully explored what I can do with the jrb climbing system and now I do realize it's completely feasible to climb this way. However, that is not to imply that we can't do better if we rigged a dedicated system specifically for this type of climbing. And I look forward to working on that and my guess is that you will prefer it if ya know you're going to climb this way.

[@zacharyriley2501]

John, I recently heard you mention in a video you had a way to tie something in the tree so when you come back you could use the jr v climbing method when a crotch wasn’t available. Is that in another video if so I apologize but I can’t find it. Love the material and website.

[@jrbtc]

I don't have a video yet on my "false crotch" design but its really just a Carabiner which is affixed to the tree via a web sling in a running girth hitch.

[@HuckFTW]

Nice. Extremely interested in that next project

[@wurdwalkupridedown7829]

I like the idea of this for climbing a tree. But for hunting, does all the rope get tangled with your bow pull up rope? Or could you use the climbing rope as a bow pull up?

[@jrbtc]

This is a good question. When i climb DSRT or SRT, i just use my climbing rope to pull up my bow. But when hitch climbing, we use each end of our rope in an alternating fashion and so we can't have a bow attached to the end. It's best to have a separate pull up rope. In terms of it getting tangled, what i do is set my gear line directly behind me and i operate my hitch climbing system on the left and right side.

[@wurdwalkupridedown7829]

@@jrbtc ah, that makes sense. I sent you a PM on saddle hunter figuring that you’d be less likely to see all the comments here. But I’d like to see the 40’ rope alternative of this if you’ve done it.

[@jrbtc]

@wurdwalkupridedown7829 Yes, the technique has evolved and the rope length determines how high we can go. With 40ft of rope, assuming the tree is of 5ft in diameter, we can get our tie in at about as high as 30ft and our feet to about 25 ft. I owe you an update and will get a new video up asap. But here's a summary, and ya can use my website and channel to locate all the details: Using a Pole to set Maverick hitch greatly extends the height of each move. If we don't have a pole, a Saddle Hunters Hitch still works. In terms of the system, the friction hitches have been reversed in direction so that we climb towards the end of the line. In terms of friction hitches, the JRB ascender or Longhorn Agile work. In terms of footing, the Garda works if shortened OR we can make dedicated footloops from friction on one or both sides.

[@dennismartin268]

Thanks, also follow along on saddle hunter.

[@DBSLAW88]

These videos and techniques are so awesome

[@kennethrogers1129]

nice, tied in at all times,how much rope on each side , say 25 ft climb requires 100 ft of rope? or would you only need 50 on the last side up, plus 20 or so for each move on the other side, totalling around 70 ft, since you would rappel on just the last side up with one rope strand having your weight and actual rappel line, and the other to release the hitch? ok at the end of the video you get at my question and I really like the idea. You stated 40 ft of rope to climb 30 ft to hunt at 25, seems like you would have to have 60, one for rappel, one to release, but that is exciting to me, a definite improvement over two tether safety wise, but maybe a bit slower, which is a good tradeoff , probably once I got quick with tying the hitch wouldn’t be too slow… This is great for my trees since the crotch I need to hit with a throw ball is like 80 feet , talking tall big trees. I’m thinking starting out you divide your ropein half, then take the middle of each half to make the bight for the saddle hunter hitch, 15 ft length of doubled rope on each side, 60 foot of total rope length. To climb the 30 foot and be able to rappel and retrieve with less than 60 ft then the retrieve strand would have to be a paracord or some other rope. For the first, third, and fifth movement you could have a short length of rope for the saddle hunter hitch. For the second, fourth, and last movement your rope would have to have the rappel rope , which would be your climbing rope 30 ft or so, along with a paracord for the release. Otherwise you will always have to have a minimum of 60 ft plus the length it takes to tie the hitch depending on tree diameter, at least 3-6 ft, so we’re back to 70 foot of rope. HHHMMMM interesting project, be great to figure that out and have less rope to carry. Youj got me thinking and I will work on this too John, thanks for the stimulation and you have really given me an education on knots dude

[@tommydansby5481]

I am holding out on buying a single stick for your new method. This is my best expression of excitement and encouragement for you to eliminate the need of single stick climbing.

[@jrbtc]

Well i do have an improvement coming. I built a system which is optimized for hitch climbing. The rope can be shorter, say 40ft. It uses a retrieval line. It doesn't use the garda footloop. And it is less complex.

[@tommydansby5481]

@@jrbtc will it be like drt where you use a blakes hitch and pull yourself up while pushing the hitch up?

[@jrbtc]

@@tommydansby5481 no. It's an improvement to the JRB Hitch Climbing method. See the two vids on that playlist and then think about how to make it better.

[@tommydansby5481]

@@jrbtc thank you. I have watched them. I will have to really analyze them because I don't see it getting much better than that. I am still new to climbing a tree to hunt from. I grew up on ladder stands. I love to climb with your system on a single rope. I am getting ready to do it with 90 foot of rope so I climb with both sides. I probably won't buy a single stick because you will have something better. I sold my sticks but I have a ton of pine trees in South Mississippi so I will need a quiet and easier way to climb than with a stick.

[@The_Fit_ness_monster]

Always stoked to see new vid from you! I’ve been waiting for this one🙌🙌 doing this method how many seasons do you think you could get out of resc tec? Due to more stress of rope on tree but this is truly revolutionary 👍

[@jrbtc]

Thx brother. All my methods have a low wear profile compared to MRS or methods with mechanical devices. And a 'season' for one climber could be a lot different than another. But from prior experience, I went 4 seasons on a single rope and only retired it because it was getting old relative to the manufacturer recommendations, not because it wasn't passing inspection. I put another rope in and used it 4 seasons. And so that's a fair number. Friction hitches i replaced seasonally. In general, I would say to go with the manufacturer recommendations, as well as execute regular inspections, looking for deformities or sheath damage.

[@The_Fit_ness_monster]

@@jrbtc good to know👍 im really digging this method to add to the arsenal.

[@tommydansby5481]

This is going to have me climbing all summer. This is much better than the board. How do you feel about 6mm sterling trc on 9mm Canyon Elite?

[@jrbtc]

Tommy, i don't own that particular rope but have tied TRC on 9mm and 8mm ropes with good results. Buying a couple different hitch cords is a fairly inexpensive proposition and sometimes i will tie and test two different cords in a side by side test and see which i like better on a particular rope.

[@BrandonWendt2]

Climber asks, What are you using as a third hand? French prusik? Klemheist? classic? No, I'm rockin the JRBascenderhitch413variationinsoftbridgemode..... Crickets

[@jrbtc]

If its news worthy of spreading, it will spread. Thx.